New home build.. should I upgrade the wire gauge? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 7Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
New home build.. should I upgrade the wire gauge?

So the standard wire gauge I believe is 16 for the whole house. Most of the house is getting ceiling speakers for audio distribution (mostly for music through the house). Those runs will be a bit longer based on where they are coming from the house, but it's not being used for anything other than just simple music.

I have a home theater where all the speaker runs are confined to the same location (within say, 25-30 feet), because the audio closet is in the same room.

I have to pay $1000 to upgrade from 16 to 14, but it upgrades the whole house. I'm not sure that it's worth it, so figured I'd check in with you folks to get some clarification!

Appreciate any help!
Hercules is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 02:06 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,602
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1048 Post(s)
Liked: 1243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
So the standard wire gauge I believe is 16 for the whole house. Most of the house is getting ceiling speakers for audio distribution (mostly for music through the house). Those runs will be a bit longer based on where they are coming from the house, but it's not being used for anything other than just simple music.

I have a home theater where all the speaker runs are confined to the same location (within say, 25-30 feet), because the audio closet is in the same room.

I have to pay $1000 to upgrade from 16 to 14, but it upgrades the whole house. I'm not sure that it's worth it, so figured I'd check in with you folks to get some clarification!

Appreciate any help!

That's a pretty crazy price increase, sounds like the builder is screwing you. I guess it depends on how many feet of cable is actually required. I'd prefer to have 14 gauge even for 25-30 feet, so if you have lots of runs over that, I'd bite the bullet and pay for the upgrade. You might ask if you can get a pro audio installer to run the wire and buy it from Parts Express.
Rex Anderson is offline  
post #3 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 02:09 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
torii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 7,241
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3592 Post(s)
Liked: 2026
is it legal to even use 16 gauge? 14 is acceptable and 12 preferred. https://www.buildmyowncabin.com/elec...nd-sizing.html

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5, Magnepan LRS
Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP
torii is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
That's a pretty crazy price increase, sounds like the builder is screwing you. I guess it depends on how many feet of cable is actually required. I'd prefer to have 14 gauge even for 25-30 feet, so if you have lots of runs over that, I'd bite the bullet and pay for the upgrade. You might ask if you can get a pro audio installer to run the wire and buy it from Parts Express.
Yeah I'm not allowed to do any work in the house, and doing it afterwards is basically impossible since all the ceilings/exterior walls are foam insulated and impossible to snake anything through. I guess I'll bite the bullet and pay for the upgrade.

Thanks!
Hercules is offline  
post #5 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 03:05 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,395
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
So the standard wire gauge I believe is 16 for the whole house. Most of the house is getting ceiling speakers for audio distribution (mostly for music through the house). Those runs will be a bit longer based on where they are coming from the house, but it's not being used for anything other than just simple music.

I have a home theater where all the speaker runs are confined to the same location (within say, 25-30 feet), because the audio closet is in the same room.

I have to pay $1000 to upgrade from 16 to 14, but it upgrades the whole house. I'm not sure that it's worth it, so figured I'd check in with you folks to get some clarification!

Appreciate any help!
Why not try the 16 and if it works for your casual listening needs you've saved $1000.

Or just listen to the speakers that are furthest from the source and if you don't get enough volume then go ahead and upgrade.

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #6 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
Why not try the 16 and if it works for your casual listening needs you've saved $1000.
Because I can't upgrade it later at all. It will be covered in foam insulation and without gutting drywall and cutting out insulation it will be a real pain to upgrade later.

See the upgrade is for the *whole* house -- so either I have 16 or 14 throughout. If I want the media room upgraded (presumably I would), then I have to pay for the whole house to get done. I already paid a premium for going from Cat5e to Cat6 so it's these little things that they try to get you on.
Hercules is offline  
post #7 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 03:52 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,395
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Because I can't upgrade it later at all. It will be covered in foam insulation and without gutting drywall and cutting out insulation it will be a real pain to upgrade later.

See the upgrade is for the *whole* house -- so either I have 16 or 14 throughout. If I want the media room upgraded (presumably I would), then I have to pay for the whole house to get done. I already paid a premium for going from Cat5e to Cat6 so it's these little things that they try to get you on.
Gotcha.

Go with 14.

Just had $5500 in upgrades done on a $115,000 bathroom/master closet addition.

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #8 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 03:55 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Liked: 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
is it legal to even use 16 gauge? 14 is acceptable and 12 preferred. https://www.buildmyowncabin.com/elec...nd-sizing.html
He is talking low voltage speaker wiring not electrical wiring.
torii likes this.

Current system:
Sony 75X900e/Sony STR-DN-1080, CS-3/CS-8/CS5
Sony X800 4K blu-ray player/Dish Hopper3
Roku 4 Premier/Sony PS-4
Cheddarhead is online now  
post #9 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 03:57 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 388 Post(s)
Liked: 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Yeah I'm not allowed to do any work in the house, and doing it afterwards is basically impossible since all the ceilings/exterior walls are foam insulated and impossible to snake anything through. I guess I'll bite the bullet and pay for the upgrade.

Thanks!
Time to stand up to the contractor, it's your money, you can damn well specify want you want and bring in a sub-contractor.

Current system:
Sony 75X900e/Sony STR-DN-1080, CS-3/CS-8/CS5
Sony X800 4K blu-ray player/Dish Hopper3
Roku 4 Premier/Sony PS-4
Cheddarhead is online now  
post #10 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 04:03 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,602
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1048 Post(s)
Liked: 1243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheddarhead View Post
Time to stand up to the contractor, it's your money, you can damn well specify want you want and bring in a sub-contractor.

Or at least try to get the price down for the wiring upgrade. Show them the price of a spool of 14 gauge Belden 5000. Offer to supply it if they don't charge you for the upgrade.


https://www.parts-express.com/belden...-usa--102-1156


$170 for 500 feet. New home builder upgrades are such a rip off.
Rex Anderson is offline  
post #11 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 04:46 PM
Member
 
s2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Liked: 73
I had a Similar issue where I wanted to use my Audioquest type 2 ..30 foot runs and they said they needed to use their own wiring for fire and safety hazards. Such BS that was...

It was a brand new home and they used their own cables for my rears on a 5.1
Setup. I wasnt happy about that, but what do you do.

After the fact I couldn't really replace it because of the foam..insulation and plumbing. No attic space as above was a bedroom.

I may be getting another home soon and going with a full Atmos system. I may finally get out of the living room and actually have a dedicated home theater room. More than likely a loft or big bonus room.

We needed the extra bedroom for my baby girl and the boys will be going into their teen years soon.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[I]Video: Sony XBR-75X850C 75 inch 4k - Samsung 55inch 4k -58 PANASONIC PZ850u plasma
4k-Blu Ray: Sony UBP x800 - PS3 - oppo 103 Amp and power : Pioneer elite SC - 27 - Monster Power AVS 2000 Reference - DT BP 30s- 10s - citation 5.1
Speakers and Sub : Kef Model reference 1 - DT CLR 2000 - DT UIW BP/A in ceiling rears - DT BPX Rears - JTR Captivator 118HT

Last edited by s2000; 09-25-2019 at 09:12 PM.
s2000 is offline  
post #12 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 08:16 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bobknavs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Danbury, CT, USA
Posts: 4,610
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2334 Post(s)
Liked: 1663
I wonder what sort of speaker wire your contractor plans to use? Inexpensive 14 AWG CL2 (in wall) wire is around $0.15 a foot. Audioquest, $1.25 a foot. 16AWG isn't much cheaper.

Assuming no thievery is involved, it sounds like the contractor simply doesn't want to run 14AWG, and is putting a prohibitively high price on it to steer you away from it. I don't understand why; 12 AWG multi-strand is still fairly easy to work with.
bobknavs is offline  
post #13 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 08:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
farsider3000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,943
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Liked: 960
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Because I can't upgrade it later at all. It will be covered in foam insulation and without gutting drywall and cutting out insulation it will be a real pain to upgrade later.

See the upgrade is for the *whole* house -- so either I have 16 or 14 throughout. If I want the media room upgraded (presumably I would), then I have to pay for the whole house to get done. I already paid a premium for going from Cat5e to Cat6 so it's these little things that they try to get you on.
Pay the $1,000. You will be glad you did. But you also need to ensure you have them run at least two additional 20amp lines to your room if you ever want to have high end subwoofers. If not you will trip your breaker and you are stuck with only using what a 15 amp can power for your TV/projector, all speakers and other equipment as well as subwoofers.
torii and lostressjimbo like this.

7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
farsider3000 is offline  
post #14 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 08:40 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
torii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 7,241
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3592 Post(s)
Liked: 2026
on a new build I would have some 20 amp lines for subs and I would also have a few outlets in floors of large open floor plan spaces....so you can put subs at your mlp

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5, Magnepan LRS
Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP
torii is offline  
post #15 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 09:49 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheddarhead View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Yeah I'm not allowed to do any work in the house, and doing it afterwards is basically impossible since all the ceilings/exterior walls are foam insulated and impossible to snake anything through. I guess I'll bite the bullet and pay for the upgrade.

Thanks!
Time to stand up to the contractor, it's your money, you can damn well specify want you want and bring in a sub-contractor.

Umm no.

You can’t.

I am also currently building a brand new house and also just paid to upgrade my Zone2/3, main bathroom, and rears upgraded to 14 gauge with the builder.

You can’t put anything in the walls yourself or with another contractor. I asked

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
post #16 of 36 Old 09-25-2019, 09:50 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
on a new build I would have some 20 amp lines for subs and I would also have a few outlets in floors of large open floor plan spaces....so you can put subs at your mlp [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I put a 20A line in for my Parasound in my new house currently being built.

$250 option.

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
post #17 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 355F1 View Post
I put a 20A line in for my Parasound in my new house currently being built.

$250 option.
That's a great idea -- should I be adding two 20a lines on separate circuits for two separate subs? Didn't realize they drew that much power.
Hercules is offline  
post #18 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 11:58 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bobknavs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Danbury, CT, USA
Posts: 4,610
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2334 Post(s)
Liked: 1663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
That's a great idea -- should I be adding two 20a lines on separate circuits for two separate subs? Didn't realize they drew that much power.
Depends on the subs. A PSA 3611 (dual 18") is spec'd at 1920W RMS. (They don't list a power outlet requirement.) A Hsu VTF-15H (their largest) is spec'd at 720W from the wall.
bobknavs is offline  
post #19 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Depends on the subs. A PSA 3611 (dual 18") is spec'd at 1920W RMS. (They don't list a power outlet requirement.) A Hsu VTF-15H (their largest) is spec'd at 720W from the wall.
That should be fine on a single circuit -- I have more power running through my PCs than that
Hercules is offline  
post #20 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 12:16 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
That's a great idea -- should I be adding two 20a lines on separate circuits for two separate subs? Didn't realize they drew that much power.

I pondered this and decided that one 20A line would be enough. I will run my Parasound amps with that and run everything else off the regular wall outlet that is part of the living room area circuit. It should be fine.

My house should be completed in January.

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
post #21 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 355F1 View Post
I pondered this and decided that one 20A line would be enough. I will run my Parasound amps with that and run everything else off the regular wall outlet that is part of the living room area circuit. It should be fine.

My house should be completed in January.
Good luck on the new home!
Hercules is offline  
post #22 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 12:39 PM
Member
 
s2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Liked: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Good luck on the new home!
Hopefully you get locked in to a great interest rate. Rates are good right now.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[I]Video: Sony XBR-75X850C 75 inch 4k - Samsung 55inch 4k -58 PANASONIC PZ850u plasma
4k-Blu Ray: Sony UBP x800 - PS3 - oppo 103 Amp and power : Pioneer elite SC - 27 - Monster Power AVS 2000 Reference - DT BP 30s- 10s - citation 5.1
Speakers and Sub : Kef Model reference 1 - DT CLR 2000 - DT UIW BP/A in ceiling rears - DT BPX Rears - JTR Captivator 118HT
s2000 is offline  
post #23 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 01:26 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Good luck on the new home!
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2000 View Post
Hopefully you get locked in to a great interest rate. Rates are good right now.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks, peeps!

This is actually the first house I have ever bought.....so there's a lot to learn.

But I am lucky that it is essentially my dream house so I will have everything I want in it.

Rates are about 3.75% right now for my loan (already approved) which is good because back in May we were looking at 3.99%.

Middle Mortgage score is 820 so I will definitely qualify for the lowest rate.

I am SUPER STOKED for my new home theater gear I am putting together for my very LARGE "gathering room."

Parasound A51.....dual 12" Monolith Subs.....Energy RC-70's in all 4 corners with an RC-LCR in the center.

Zones 2 (my home office) and 3 (my bedroom) will also have a set of Energy RC-70's each run off a Parasound A21.

Oh....and I am selling everything that I own except my clothes and furnishing the new house with all new furniture and stuff.

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
post #24 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 02:06 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,395
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6234
Quote:
Originally Posted by 355F1 View Post

Oh....and I am selling everything that I own except my clothes and furnishing the new house with all new furniture and stuff.
You're selling the Ferrari?

But back to the OP, man, it had better be a LOT of wire for $1000 to be the difference between 16 and 14 gauge.

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #25 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 05:29 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
You're selling the Ferrari?

But back to the OP, man, it had better be a LOT of wire for $1000 to be the difference between 16 and 14 gauge.

Already did. Time to grow up and be an adult, I think..........

I can't find my copy of the change order I just did to upgrade to 14ga wiring, but I emailed my builder to get it to post the cost and how many wires were upgraded. I think I only did Rears, Zone 2, and Zone 3 upgraded wiring...

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
post #26 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 06:32 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
srw1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
Because I can't upgrade it later at all. It will be covered in foam insulation and without gutting drywall and cutting out insulation it will be a real pain to upgrade later.

See the upgrade is for the *whole* house -- so either I have 16 or 14 throughout. If I want the media room upgraded (presumably I would), then I have to pay for the whole house to get done. I already paid a premium for going from Cat5e to Cat6 so it's these little things that they try to get you on.
Another option might be to ask them how much it would cost to install conduit for the speaker wire. If it wouldn't be much more, you could always go with 16 for now, and upgrade to 14 or even 12 in the future if you feel the need. The conduit would need to be wide enough to easily pull the new wires through, though.

Scott
Cheddarhead likes this.

srw1000 is offline  
post #27 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 06:38 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
srw1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by 355F1 View Post
Umm no.

You can’t.

I am also currently building a brand new house and also just paid to upgrade my Zone2/3, main bathroom, and rears upgraded to 14 gauge with the builder.

You can’t put anything in the walls yourself or with another contractor. I asked
This is entirely dependent on the builder and the contract. We just built a house three years ago, and had this discussion with the builder ahead of time. They had no problem with allowing us to install whatever low-voltage wiring we wanted to before the drywall was put up. I wired the living room and home theater with premium 12 gauge speaker wire, plus installed multiple Cat 6 and RG6 cables to each of the rooms. Not only did I know exactly what brand of wire went in and where it ran, I figured I also saved a few thousand dollars by doing it myself.

The key is to have this discussion before the contract is signed.

As far as bringing in any other subcontractors to do any work, that would have been a big no-no.

Scott
Cheddarhead and lostressjimbo like this.

srw1000 is offline  
post #28 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Hercules's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by srw1000 View Post
This is entirely dependent on the builder and the contract. We just built a house three years ago, and had this discussion with the builder ahead of time. They had no problem with allowing us to install whatever low-voltage wiring we wanted to before the drywall was put up. I wired the living room and home theater with premium 12 gauge speaker wire, plus installed multiple Cat 6 and RG6 cables to each of the rooms. Not only did I know exactly what brand of wire went in and where it ran, I figured I also saved a few thousand dollars by doing it myself.

The key is to have this discussion before the contract is signed.

As far as bringing in any other subcontractors to do any work, that would have been a big no-no.

Scott
The issue is that where I am these are all basically track homes -- so the subs, the materials, etc are all not really your decision. For example they want to charge about $130 a switch for "smart" switches. So I have to opt to take the default rocker switches and change *all* of them on my own. It's irritating to be sure, but it's the way it is. I could move further out in Texas but I'd be commuting far longer than I'd like and my preference is to ensure a short commute and great schools. With that, it means that I'm subject to the track home requirements because these towns are in high demand and all the land is sold
Hercules is offline  
post #29 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 06:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
srw1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
The issue is that where I am these are all basically track homes -- so the subs, the materials, etc are all not really your decision. For example they want to charge about $130 a switch for "smart" switches. So I have to opt to take the default rocker switches and change *all* of them on my own. It's irritating to be sure, but it's the way it is. I could move further out in Texas but I'd be commuting far longer than I'd like and my preference is to ensure a short commute and great schools. With that, it means that I'm subject to the track home requirements because these towns are in high demand and all the land is sold
I understand you don't have a lot of choices in your situation. And we didn't have the ability to pick our own subcontractors, either. A lot of that is locked in. And you're right, you're better off just taking the no-frills choices and upgrading them yourself after you move in. We did the same thing with occupancy-sensing lights for our walk-in closet and utility room.

I just wanted to add the comment so if anyone thinking about building would be left with the impression that it's a universal rule that no builders would ever allow the customer to do any low-voltage wiring. It's worth asking the question before buying, anyway.

The cost of upgrades just seems nuts on some of the items. That's why I suggested asking about installing conduit for your speaker wire. You might even ask them if you could put that in place yourself. Since there's no liability involved, they may let you do it.

Best of luck to the rest of the build, and I hope you're very happy with how it turns out.

Scott

srw1000 is offline  
post #30 of 36 Old 09-26-2019, 07:39 PM
Senior Member
 
355F1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 176 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hercules View Post
The issue is that where I am these are all basically track homes -- so the subs, the materials, etc are all not really your decision. For example they want to charge about $130 a switch for "smart" switches. So I have to opt to take the default rocker switches and change *all* of them on my own. It's irritating to be sure, but it's the way it is. I could move further out in Texas but I'd be commuting far longer than I'd like and my preference is to ensure a short commute and great schools. With that, it means that I'm subject to the track home requirements because these towns are in high demand and all the land is sold
Same here.

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
355F1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Speakers

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off