Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 1474 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #44191 of 45258 Old 01-08-2018, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
The sound is supposed to be subtle, but try turning up the volume on the height speakers to see if that makes it better.
Thanks. I just upped them 2db each and it does sound a little better to me. Appreciate the advice. Don’t know why I didn’t think about that myself.
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post #44192 of 45258 Old 01-08-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by EdQ View Post
I would try moving your bed channels near ear level. And your Atmos speakers to height in the AVR

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So I moved the speakers to height in the AVR and re-ran YPAO and it set them to overhead again. Switched them and tried it one more time and it out the front atmos as overhead and the rears as heights. So should I just manually put them all as height and then not rerun YPAO and will that even matter that I don’t rerun it?
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post #44193 of 45258 Old 01-09-2018, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
NI don't think it is a bad connection. I swapped tweeters. The right worked in the left speaker, but the left one did not work in the right speaker.

I don't think it was present from day one. I didn't have any problem when I first set them up. It has just been during the last few calibrations that this issue has popped up.
I called Polk customer support this morning. They agreed with my conclusion that it is a bad tweeter, and are sending me a replacement at no cost. Great support from Polk.
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post #44194 of 45258 Old 01-09-2018, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
I called Polk customer support this morning. They agreed with my conclusion that it is a bad tweeter, and are sending me a replacement at no cost. Great support from Polk.
Yep that's been my experience - no questions asked. Are they sending 1 speaker or a pair?

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post #44195 of 45258 Old 01-11-2018, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdQ View Post
I would try moving your bed channels near ear level. And your Atmos speakers to height in the AVR

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So I moved the surround speakers down to pretty much ear level and the separation definitely seems to make difference. Thanks for the advice! I've also upped the ATMOS speakers a couple db. Pretty happy right now. The only thing I have now is that my sub is somewhat localized meaning I can tell the sub is just behind me to the left. Tried turning down the level on it to see if it blends better and it does but then I don't get that mid bass punch I enjoy. I would move the sub but wife doesn't like it at the front of the room and I agree it throws off the aesthetics. That being said it all still sounds amazing especially for an imperfect setup. I've tried moving the speaker from overhead to height in the receiver and I'm not sure I can hear a difference, at least not with what I am using for testing. So that's the update. I now have 5.1.4 and I appreciate everyone who took the time to answer my questions and provide advice. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to pull the trigger on a Parasound HCA-2003 that someone found on Craigslist for me for $500.
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post #44196 of 45258 Old 01-13-2018, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by matemike View Post
The S30 makes sense being the traditional style center channel speaker. The S35 is getting tons of good reviews despite the uncommon design. I feel like it was designed for fitment issues for consumers wanting to set it on a mantle or shelf where their TV was only a few inches above. But does that make it a compromise?

Note:I can fit either the S30 or S35 into my HT setup. The $70 difference is not a HUGE deal to me as I'll look for open box deals anyway.
This is precisely what I'm trying to figure out right now. I have a pair of S15s also and need a center. What did you end up doing? I may have missed it, but I didn't see a response to your question.

Two 5.25" woofers, as you mentioned, would theoretically be better for bass / male voices. At the same time (and I realize this is not a great comparison, excluding the tweeters, speaker surface area: 2 x 5.25 = 10.5 / 6 x 3 = 18; also the S35 can handle more power. Of course the S30 specs include a lower bottom frequency as one might expect...

At a loss - For me as well the $70 is of little concern.
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post #44197 of 45258 Old 01-13-2018, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by alex_sisk View Post
This is precisely what I'm trying to figure out right now. I have a pair of S15s also and need a center. What did you end up doing? I may have missed it, but I didn't see a response to your question.

Two 5.25" woofers, as you mentioned, would theoretically be better for bass / male voices. At the same time (and I realize this is not a great comparison, excluding the tweeters, speaker surface area: 2 x 5.25 = 10.5 / 6 x 3 = 18; also the S35 can handle more power. Of course the S30 specs include a lower bottom frequency as one might expect...

At a loss - For me as well the $70 is of little concern.
I have the s35 and s15 set up. The s35 is the best center I've owned. Not saying much as most of my other speakers have been entry level. It doesn't get low but that's what my sub is for. The sound is clean and crisp which is what i always wanted

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post #44198 of 45258 Old 01-13-2018, 12:59 PM
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Well hello fellow polkies!

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Up The Irons!
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post #44199 of 45258 Old 01-15-2018, 12:44 PM
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I have a chance to pick up a pair of LSi9's in good condition for $350 CDN ($280 USD).

These would be upgrading a pair of Tannoy Reveal 501a active studio monitors that I'm currently using in my 2.1 bedroom system.

I'm currently using the pre-outs from my Anthem MRX-300 receiver to feed the Tannoys with a signal, so I would just switch from using the pre-outs to using the internal amplification (the MRX-300 provides 136.5 watts at 0.1 percent distortion into 4 ohms with 2 channels driven). The subwoofer is an Earthquake SUB-80x (actually a decent little downfiring/front ported 8" sub) good enough for the bedroom (for now ).

The crossovers in the LSi9's have been updated with Solen capacitors and resistors by the original owner.

I'm thinking I'm going for it, any reason I shouldn't?

I haven't had any experience with Polk Audio since i was a teenager and my dad bought the family's first ever 5.1 system which was a Polk Audio HTIB. Funny enough, the surrounds, center channel and subwoofer from that HTIB system are actually still in use in my parents' winter home in Arizona with PSB Stratus Minis as front L/R.


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post #44200 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 08:10 AM
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I got the new tweeter from Polk last night, but that still didn't resolve the issue. I swapped tweeters before I called for the new one, and I thought the lack of sound followed the tweeter. I guess I should have pulled it apart earlier. I went ahead and did the full dissection last night and think I found the culprit.

RtiA9 in pieces.


Looking like a bad resistor feeding the tweeter.
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post #44201 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
I got the new tweeter from Polk last night, but that still didn't resolve the issue. I swapped tweeters before I called for the new one, and I thought the lack of sound followed the tweeter. I guess I should have pulled it apart earlier. I went ahead and did the full dissection last night and think I found the culprit.

RtiA9 in pieces.


Looking like a bad resistor feeding the tweeter.
I am not trying to insult your intelligence, but what make you think it is the ceramic resistor? The only way to really be sure is to desolder it and measure with a multi-meter. From the image, unless you can see a physical break, it looks normal. The discoloration of the glue/conformal coating is normal as they get pretty hot.
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post #44202 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
I am not trying to insult your intelligence, but what make you think it is the ceramic resistor? The only way to really be sure is to desolder it and measure with a multi-meter. From the image, unless you can see a physical break, it looks normal. The discoloration of the glue/conformal coating is normal as they get pretty hot.
I'm not 100% sure yet. I haven't had time to take it completely apart and desolder it yet. My reasoning for the resistor is that is the resistor for the tweeter, which is the only component not working. The capacitors all look like they are in good shape. The resistor for the mid range does not have discolored glue. I will have to double check when I get home later, but I think the glue is filling in cracks in the the ceramic, not sitting on top of it. Also, on the underside, one of the solder points was discolored and dull, not shiny like the rest of the solder points. All indicators of an a bad component to me.
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post #44203 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by siuengr View Post
I'm not 100% sure yet. I haven't had time to take it completely apart and desolder it yet. My reasoning for the resistor is that is the resistor for the tweeter, which is the only component not working. The capacitors all look like they are in good shape. The resistor for the mid range does not have discolored glue. I will have to double check when I get home later, but I think the glue is filling in cracks in the the ceramic, not sitting on top of it. Also, on the underside, one of the solder points was discolored and dull, not shiny like the rest of the solder points. All indicators of an a bad component to me.
That is sound reasoning and troubleshooting in my book. Discolored solder joints sometimes equate to cold solder joints and loose connections. Good luck and keep us posted my friend.
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post #44204 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
That is sound reasoning and troubleshooting in my book. Discolored solder joints sometimes equate to cold solder joints and loose connections. Good luck and keep us posted my friend.
Nothing a quick touch with a soldering iron wouldn't fix.

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post #44205 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bluemoon737 View Post
Nothing a quick touch with a soldering iron wouldn't fix.
So what was your rate Master Chief? I was an AT for a while before becoming a Jarhead.

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post #44206 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 12:51 PM
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So what was your rate Master Chief? I was an AT for a while before becoming a Jarhead.
Nuke electrician.
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post #44207 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 12:55 PM
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Nuke electrician.
bluemoon737, makes sense, seeing your location.
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post #44208 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 01:59 PM
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I plan on breaking out the soldering iron out tonight.

BTW, I've been an avionics designer for the past 17 years, working mainly on F/A-18s and F-15s.
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post #44209 of 45258 Old 01-17-2018, 09:28 PM
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Did a little more deconstructing tonight. I think I have bumped up the confidence that is the resistor. Here are a few more pictures of the crossover.

Bottom of the board under the resistor. Looking a little singed.


After removing the resistor. Some of the conformal coating has baked off.


Melted epoxy under the resistor.


Overall view of the middle board.


The suspect resistor.


Oh wait, it fell apart when I touched it. Yeah, I would it call it toasty.
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post #44210 of 45258 Old 01-18-2018, 08:44 AM
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Hey guys,

Just checking in to the Polk thread,
Bought some Polk S15s to go along with my PSW10 sub and Tl1 satellites.

I had bought the 2 KEF Q100s after some suggestions from some great people on these forums, but were just a bit too bulky for my small living room although they sounded great,
also matching a center was hard because the extra KEF Q100 was too big for under my tv.

Anyways bought the S15s for my fronts and an S35 center and they sound pretty sweet together. For what my budget was I'm pretty happy.
Anyone else using a similar setup?

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post #44211 of 45258 Old 01-18-2018, 08:48 AM
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siuengr, because you thought the problem followed the tweeter, maybe the tweeter is bad too - possibly related to the resistor failure.

Are you going to request a new crossover from Polk, or just replace the resistor?

I wonder what caused the resistor to fail.
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post #44212 of 45258 Old 01-18-2018, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam2434 View Post
siuengr, because you thought the problem followed the tweeter, maybe the tweeter is bad too - possibly related to the resistor failure.

Are you going to request a new crossover from Polk, or just replace the resistor?

I wonder what caused the resistor to fail.
I think the tweeter may have been bad as well, but I already got a replacement tweeter from Polk. I ordered some replacement resistors online. They were only $4 for a pack of 5 including shipping. Wasn't worth the time to call Polk for that price. I have no idea what caused the failure. When I initially got the phase error, I double checked all the wiring and the negative terminal was a little loose at the wall connection. I don't know if that would have caused any issues.

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post #44213 of 45258 Old 01-19-2018, 08:05 PM
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Hey guys, good news on my end! I received my replacement LSiM 705s from Adorama and they are in pristine condition this time. Can't wait to fire them up and burn them in a little. I'm using a hand-me-down Sony stereo receiver to power them until I can buy something better. If I am connecting the speakers in the standard fashion, does it matter which set of binding posts I use and I assume the jumpers should remain in place? Do I only remove the jumpers if I am bi-amping or bi-wiring the speakers?

Also, any recommendations on placement for stereo (full-range) listening. How far from the wall should they be placed to let them sound their best?

Cheers!
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post #44214 of 45258 Old 01-20-2018, 05:04 AM
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For a standard configuration, I don't believe it matters which set of posts you use and I left the jumpers in place on my 703s and 706c.

There is info in the support documentation, https://d3vqw2nv1topde.cloudfront.ne...%20English.pdf

After reading that, I'm kinda curious whether bi-wiring would actually make a noticeable difference. Has anyone ever tried this with the LSiM speakers?

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post #44215 of 45258 Old 01-20-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick V View Post
I have a chance to pick up a pair of LSi9's in good condition for $350 CDN ($280 USD).

These would be upgrading a pair of Tannoy Reveal 501a active studio monitors that I'm currently using in my 2.1 bedroom system.

I'm currently using the pre-outs from my Anthem MRX-300 receiver to feed the Tannoys with a signal, so I would just switch from using the pre-outs to using the internal amplification (the MRX-300 provides 136.5 watts at 0.1 percent distortion into 4 ohms with 2 channels driven). The subwoofer is an Earthquake SUB-80x (actually a decent little downfiring/front ported 8" sub) good enough for the bedroom (for now ).

The crossovers in the LSi9's have been updated with Solen capacitors and resistors by the original owner.

I'm thinking I'm going for it, any reason I shouldn't?

I haven't had any experience with Polk Audio since i was a teenager and my dad bought the family's first ever 5.1 system which was a Polk Audio HTIB. Funny enough, the surrounds, center channel and subwoofer from that HTIB system are actually still in use in my parents' winter home in Arizona with PSB Stratus Minis as front L/R.
Well I went ahead and picked them up. For $350CDN they even included the 24" stands!

These things sounds fantastic. They're a huge upgrade over the Tannoy Reveal 501a studio monitors that I was using before. Quite an amazing bargain at this price!!

They're probably overkill for my bedroom system, but I love 'em. If I can find the matching center channel or even an LSiM 706C in the cherry finish I'll probably jump on it.

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Main System: Vizio P70 4K TV. Selah Vigore Speakers. KEF Q100 Rear L/R, Mirage BPS 400 LFE Sub. (2x)Rythmik FM8 Subs. Denon AVR-X4500H Receiver. Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 Integrated (2 channel). Oppo BDP-103. Zappiti Mini 4K HDR. GIK 242 Panels, Tri Traps, Monster Bass Trap. Various Vicoustic Desktop: Dynaudio BM6A mkII. Paradigm SUB10 w/ PBK. Cambridge DACMagic+ DAC. GIK 242 Panels, Monster Bass Trap Master Bedroom: Vizio M55 4K HDR. BG Radia In-Wall/Ceiling Speakers (5.2.2). NAD T758v3 Receiver
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post #44216 of 45258 Old 01-20-2018, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cla55clown View Post
Hey guys, good news on my end! I received my replacement LSiM 705s from Adorama and they are in pristine condition this time. Can't wait to fire them up and burn them in a little. I'm using a hand-me-down Sony stereo receiver to power them until I can buy something better. If I am connecting the speakers in the standard fashion, does it matter which set of binding posts I use and I assume the jumpers should remain in place? Do I only remove the jumpers if I am bi-amping or bi-wiring the speakers?

Also, any recommendations on placement for stereo (full-range) listening. How far from the wall should they be placed to let them sound their best?

Cheers!
Put the receiver in pure direct or stereo mode. Then put the 705's against the wall facing forward keep moving them little by little toward you until you have a blend of bass and mid range. Then focus with towing them in toward your ear until the voice from the singer is focused in the middle of the speakers. After you have done these steps run room correction and you are all set!
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Sony Z9D / Marantz AV 7702 / Outlaw 7220 / Polk LSIM 705 / Polk LSIM 706C / Polk 702 FX / GoldenEar XXL / PS4 Pro / Oppo-203 /
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post #44217 of 45258 Old 01-21-2018, 12:50 AM
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...After reading that, I'm kinda curious whether bi-wiring would actually make a noticeable difference. Has anyone ever tried this with the LSiM speakers?
Standard consensus in the audio world is no difference, but you may find some company that sell $10k cables and claim it does make a difference. Disclaimer. I've never tried it because my research found that many of those that have tried it did not notice any difference, so my comment is based off those that have gone before me. I've never tried bi-wire because my research showed it's not worth it. You may want to try it yourself though.

HT Configuration: 7.3.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s, 706c, FXi-30 l Infinity ERS-610 l SVS PB-2000 Subs (2x) l Monolith 7 l Behringer A500 (2x) l Oppo UDP-203 l MH mmf-9.3 l Cassette Deck.
"Never be afraid to try something new, remember amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic"
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post #44218 of 45258 Old 01-21-2018, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
Standard consensus in the audio world is no difference, but you may find some company that sell $10k cables and claim it does make a difference. Disclaimer. I've never tried it because my research found that many of those that have tried it did not notice any difference, so my comment is based off those that have gone before me. I've never tried bi-wire because my research showed it's not worth it. You may want to try it yourself though.
Yeah, I did some reading yesterday and decided it's probably not worth the trouble. I'm using 12 gauge speaker wire as it is, and it would probably be difficult to connect two strands to each of the amp/avr speaker posts. Not to mention the extra wire running everywhere. But who knows, maybe I'll get a wild hair and try it some day. I think I actually read some stuff about this before and had just forgotten. The Polk literature certainly makes it sound like there would be a noticeable improvement.
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post #44219 of 45258 Old 01-21-2018, 06:21 AM
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What about bi-amping? Can the LSiM towers handle that and is there a benefit?
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post #44220 of 45258 Old 01-21-2018, 07:06 AM
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What about bi-amping? Can the LSiM towers handle that and is there a benefit?
Can they handle bi-amping? Yes. Is there an (audible) benefit? Doubtful.

At any rate, bi-amping will only make a hypothetical difference when connecting to two separate power supplies.
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Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D; Oppo UDP-203; Nvidia Shield TV; Roku Ultra; Denon AVR-X8500H (9.1.4/13.1); Polk Audio RTiA7 (Fl/r), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (Sl/r & FW), OWM5 (SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, RH); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Amazon Fire TV 4K, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
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