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post #45271 of 45479 Old 10-18-2019, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
I think you're conflating LFE/LPF with speaker crossover. The LFE/LPF is almost always 120Hz - it's not setting the crossover of the main speakers or the surrounds at that setting, it's only related to the subwoofer.

Hi Ryan. I know that LFE is Low Frequency Effect but the LPF is Low Pass Filter? Where exactly is it limited to 120hZ? In the speaker circuitry or in the AVR? This is something I hadn't considered before. Perhaps I'm confusing concepts or terminolgies.


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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
Set all of your speakers to "Small", even the mains (assuming they're the A7s). I would put the crossover settings for your mains anywhere between 60-80Hz. I'd put the crossover for your centre channel at 80-100Hz (depending on the lowest Frequency Response spec). Surrounds are typically set at 100-120Hz, but it all depends on what you have for surrounds. LFE/LPF for the sub is probably fine to leave at 120Hz.

That's what I'm trying to get across: That's what I've been struggling with - my AVR does not have that flexibility. I can set my speakers to Large or Small but I only have one choice for Subwoofer crossover point. I cannot set my mains/center/surround separately. So the Yamaha room correction always picks a high crossover point because of the one weak link in my system, the surrounds.



The way I understand it is that the crossover point is the point that the AVR stops sending frequencies to the speakers and redirects them to the sub. So, if I set my sub crossover to 120hz, then the AVR sends signals below 120hz to the sub and not to the speakers. I understand that it's not a hard cut-off but a threshold nonetheless. Correct me if I'm mistaken. I'm here to learn.



My subwoofer has a adjustable crossover dial OR it can be set to allow the AVR to decide, which is how I have it set.

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post #45272 of 45479 Old 10-18-2019, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
Hi Ryan. I know that LFE is Low Frequency Effect but the LPF is Low Pass Filter? Where exactly is it limited to 120hZ? In the speaker circuitry or in the AVR? This is something I hadn't considered before. Perhaps I'm confusing concepts or terminolgies.
LFE and LPF are basically the same thing, AFAIK, but it's different than speaker crossover.

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That's what I'm trying to get across: That's what I've been struggling with - my AVR does not have that flexibility. I can set my speakers to Large or Small but I only have one choice for Subwoofer crossover point. I cannot set my mains/center/surround separately. So the Yamaha room correction always picks a high crossover point because of the one weak link in my system, the surrounds.
That's weird, and horribly limiting - I would look into a different AVR if I were you. What surrounds do you have? If their lowest Frequency Response spec is much lower than 120Hz, then override what the Yamaha determines - as a general rule, I give a 20Hz cushion between the crossover and lowest FR spec (i.e. if it's 55-60Hz, I set 80Hz as the crossover. If it's 65Hz, then I go up to 90Hz since my AVR doesn't allow single digit increments).

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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
The way I understand it is that the crossover point is the point that the AVR stops sending frequencies to the speakers and redirects them to the sub. So, if I set my sub crossover to 120hz, then the AVR sends signals below 120hz to the sub and not to the speakers. I understand that it's not a hard cut-off but a threshold nonetheless. Correct me if I'm mistaken. I'm here to learn.
That sounds correct. Though, your speakers will still play frequencies lower than 120Hz (and the sub will play higher than 120Hz) even if you have the crossover set to that value. It rolls off at that point, and those frequencies beyond what you've set just become less audible as the slope increases. Having both at the same number generally isn't ideal. If you are able to set the speaker crossover lower, then you should hear an improvement.

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My subwoofer has a adjustable crossover dial OR it can be set to allow the AVR to decide, which is how I have it set.
Set the Frequency dial on the sub to max, even if you have it set to allow the AVR to decide.
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post #45273 of 45479 Old 10-19-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
LFE and LPF are basically the same thing, AFAIK, but it's different than speaker crossover.

Right. Speaker crossover is internal to the speaker, where LFE is more about the sub.


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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
That's weird, and horribly limiting - I would look into a different AVR if I were you. What surrounds do you have? If their lowest Frequency Response spec is much lower than 120Hz, then override what the Yamaha determines - as a general rule, I give a 20Hz cushion between the crossover and lowest FR spec (i.e. if it's 55-60Hz, I set 80Hz as the crossover. If it's 65Hz, then I go up to 90Hz since my AVR doesn't allow single digit increments).
Now that I know better, I agree. My AVR is actually pretty good, IMHO. I like Yamaha receivers and this is my third one. Mine is an Aventage RX-A1040. I believe it's a 2014 model. The current models are the RX-Axx80 models, which do allow for multiple crossovers. I forsee an upgrade in the future, maybe to the Yamaha RX-A20xx line or perhaps even to a Denon, though I have been partial to Yamaha for years now.


My surrounds are 20 year old Atlantic Technology speakers. Not sure of the model number. They are small speakers with two 2.5 or 3" drivers that are angled like 15 or 20 degrees apart from each other, for the surround effect. When I run the Yamaha YPAO, I can hear a definite lack of frequency in those speakers.


I do plan to upgrade them soon. About 3 years ago I changed my center to the CSiA6, and now my RTiA7's, so it's time to round it out with a pair of FXiA4's or RtiA1's. Haven't decided yet.


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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
That sounds correct. Though, your speakers will still play frequencies lower than 120Hz (and the sub will play higher than 120Hz) even if you have the crossover set to that value. It rolls off at that point, and those frequencies beyond what you've set just become less audible as the slope increases. Having both at the same number generally isn't ideal. If you are able to set the speaker crossover lower, then you should hear an improvement.

Right. So my dilemma for now is how low to set the crossover. I doubt that any damage will occur to the rear surrounds if I set it too low. Right now I've manually set the crossover to 80, I'm wondering if I should go lower, maybe to 60. My center speaker has a lower limit of about 55hz, so a crossover of 60 may e pushing it a little. The Yamaha setup screen allows increments of 20hz, from 40-200hz.


I've already maxed out the crossover dial on my sub but I did set the crossover switch to "AVR control".

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post #45274 of 45479 Old 10-19-2019, 07:57 AM
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I am spoiled, for the movie room I use a yamaha 2030 where I can set crossover on each speaker and get a little sub eq. Most of the AVR use the distance to correct for timing my friends that manually adjust them with a tape measure don't seem to understand the end result we are after( engineers... go figure).
I also have a yammy 820 I use for 2 channel and it has worked out well over the years, not a fan of the current line where they changed the remote and removed some features I like.

My advise, having lacking surrounds in the back. Pick the cross over that works with the L/R/C because this is 90% of the sound and you won't hear much of a hole in the surround channels.
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post #45275 of 45479 Old 10-19-2019, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
Right. Speaker crossover is internal to the speaker, where LFE is more about the sub.
Exactly.

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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
Now that I know better, I agree. My AVR is actually pretty good, IMHO. I like Yamaha receivers and this is my third one. Mine is an Aventage RX-A1040. I believe it's a 2014 model. The current models are the RX-Axx80 models, which do allow for multiple crossovers. I forsee an upgrade in the future, maybe to the Yamaha RX-A20xx line or perhaps even to a Denon, though I have been partial to Yamaha for years now.
Onkyo also isn't a bad choice - Denon's Audyssey just has more options compared to Onkyo's AccuEQ. You can still set individual crossover points for each speaker type (Front, Centre, Surrounds, Rear Surrounds, etc...).

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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
My surrounds are 20 year old Atlantic Technology speakers. Not sure of the model number. They are small speakers with two 2.5 or 3" drivers that are angled like 15 or 20 degrees apart from each other, for the surround effect. When I run the Yamaha YPAO, I can hear a definite lack of frequency in those speakers.
My guess is they might not be great in the Frequency Response department. The model should be indicated somewhere (probably on the back?).

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I do plan to upgrade them soon. About 3 years ago I changed my center to the CSiA6, and now my RTiA7's, so it's time to round it out with a pair of FXiA4's or RtiA1's. Haven't decided yet.
A1s work just fine for surrounds. That's what I have - My mains are A3s and I have the A6 centre.

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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
Right. So my dilemma for now is how low to set the crossover. I doubt that any damage will occur to the rear surrounds if I set it too low. Right now I've manually set the crossover to 80, I'm wondering if I should go lower, maybe to 60. My center speaker has a lower limit of about 55hz, so a crossover of 60 may e pushing it a little. The Yamaha setup screen allows increments of 20hz, from 40-200hz.
If the Yamaha is limiting you to setting a universal crossover for all speakers, do not go lower than what your surrounds are capable of until you replace them (if you are able to find out your surround specs, adjust based on that). I wouldn't risk changing what your Yamaha determines until then because I think you can damage the speakers if you do. Even though the A6 goes down to 55Hz, I have it set to 80Hz, personally - it's not meant to output any real amount of bass, so a low crossover isn't necessary. Let your sub do the grunt work, and give your speakers at least a 20Hz cushion - it'll allow them to play mid-bass, mids, and highs cleaner, clearer and louder because they aren't being driven as hard.

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I've already maxed out the crossover dial on my sub but I did set the crossover switch to "AVR control".
Then you're good there.

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post #45276 of 45479 Old 10-19-2019, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
Right. Speaker crossover is internal to the speaker, where LFE is more about the sub...
Also, I looked up YPAO, and it looks like you can adjust each speaker individually?


I'm just guessing, I have no idea how YPAO works.

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post #45277 of 45479 Old 10-20-2019, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
Also, I looked up YPAO, and it looks like you can adjust each speaker individually?

https://youtu.be/guw5g2aSdgs?t=124

I'm just guessing, I have no idea how YPAO works.
It took me a while to reply. I was busy flying across the Atlantic ocean. Nothing like a Saturday business trip!

Nice find on the video! That GUI is different than the one I have on mine, probably from a different year. What you see at the end is not a crossover setting but the EQ settings for that speaker. After the room calibration is done, my AVR gives three Auto EQ options (IMG_5886) plus a Manual EQ and an EQ Bypass (the "through").

In IMG_5884 you can see the Bass crossover setting and in IMG_5883 you can see the speaker size configuration.

PretzelFisch says his Yamaha 2030 can do individual speaker crossovers. Judging by model number, his model is one year older than mine (xx30, vs my xx40) but his model is a higher model. That leads me to believe that the individual crossover selection is on the 20xx/30xx models and not the 10xx models. If I do upgrade next year, I will definitely go for the 20xx or 30xx models unless, of course, I switch to Denon

I'm just gonna stick with 80hz crossover for now and see how that goes.

My next decision is whether I wanna go with FXi Series surrounds and get the Bi/Di or if I'll just go with RTiA1's. I like that the FXi's have a wall mounting template, since I plan to mount the speakers to the wall. Although, the A1's would seem to be more multi-purpose and would sound good in "all channel mode" for music.

You were asking about the model of my Atlantic Technology surround speakers. The wall mount of the speaker actually obstructs the model number on the back of the speaker, but I did a little Ebay digging and found the speakers. They are the 154SR.

According to the AT website the frequency response is:

"Usable = 100hz - 15khz"
"+/-3db = 120hz - 12khz"

So, my Yamaha actually did a pretty accurate job of picking 120hz as the crossover point. I'm impressed. I'll tell you what, when the YPAO is running the test tone, you can clearly hear the lack of low frequency in these surround speakers. I'm sure they were only meant to handle sound effects, etc.
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post #45278 of 45479 Old 10-20-2019, 12:50 PM
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I'm just gonna stick with 80hz crossover for now and see how that goes.

My next decision is whether I wanna go with FXi Series surrounds and get the Bi/Di or if I'll just go with RTiA1's. I like that the FXi's have a wall mounting template, since I plan to mount the speakers to the wall. Although, the A1's would seem to be more multi-purpose and would sound good in "all channel mode" for music.

You were asking about the model of my Atlantic Technology surround speakers. The wall mount of the speaker actually obstructs the model number on the back of the speaker, but I did a little Ebay digging and found the speakers. They are the 154SR.

According to the AT website the frequency response is:

"Usable = 100hz - 15khz"
"+/-3db = 120hz - 12khz"

So, my Yamaha actually did a pretty accurate job of picking 120hz as the crossover point. I'm impressed. I'll tell you what, when the YPAO is running the test tone, you can clearly hear the lack of low frequency in these surround speakers. I'm sure they were only meant to handle sound effects, etc.
AFAIK, Yamaha's Aventege series is their higher-end model, so I am surprised that it's handcuffing you to setting a universal crossover for all of your speakers. If/when you decide to swap out your AVR, I'd seriously consider a Denon. If/when I move from 4K to 8K, I am probably going to go from my Onkyo to Denon.

I would be a bit concerned about setting it to 80Hz when those surrounds are really only meant to go as low as 100Hz, to be honest. It might be fine if you don't play anything very loud, but I'm worried you might fry those speakers (I have never researched setting crossover points way lower than a speaker's capabilities, so someone with more knowledge could confirm/deny this).

I have RTi A1s as surrounds, and they work brilliantly. And since they go down to 60Hz, I know that an 80Hz crossover is perfectly fine for them (I had them as my mains before getting a killer deal on the A3s). Some spaces don't lend themselves to those Bi/Dipole speakers - my space definitely not (I can't even do 7.1 with my room configuration). My only argument would maybe be that the A1s can be had for a lot less than the FXiAs.

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post #45279 of 45479 Old 10-20-2019, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
AFAIK, Yamaha's Aventege series is their higher-end model, so I am surprised that it's handcuffing you to setting a universal crossover for all of your speakers. If/when you decide to swap out your AVR, I'd seriously consider a Denon. If/when I move from 4K to 8K, I am probably going to go from my Onkyo to Denon.

I would be a bit concerned about setting it to 80Hz when those surrounds are really only meant to go as low as 100Hz, to be honest. It might be fine if you don't play anything very loud, but I'm worried you might fry those speakers (I have never researched setting crossover points way lower than a speaker's capabilities, so someone with more knowledge could confirm/deny this).

I have RTi A1s as surrounds, and they work brilliantly. And since they go down to 60Hz, I know that an 80Hz crossover is perfectly fine for them (I had them as my mains before getting a killer deal on the A3s). Some spaces don't lend themselves to those Bi/Dipole speakers - my space definitely not (I can't even do 7.1 with my room configuration). My only argument would maybe be that the A1s can be had for a lot less than the FXiAs.
This whole Yamaha thing with individual crossovers for speakers makes no sense. I have a Yamaha 681 and 683 which are not in the league of the higher Advantage yet I can set separate crossovers for every speaker.I think you need to take another shot at running YPAO and the go back and try to manually set crossovers again.

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post #45280 of 45479 Old 10-20-2019, 10:01 PM
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This whole Yamaha thing with individual crossovers for speakers makes no sense. I have a Yamaha 681 and 683 which are not in the league of the higher Advantage yet I can set separate crossovers for every speaker.I think you need to take another shot at running YPAO and the go back and try to manually set crossovers again.
It's not me with the Yamaha but yes, it seems rather strange.

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post #45281 of 45479 Old 10-20-2019, 11:16 PM
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This whole Yamaha thing with individual crossovers for speakers makes no sense. I have a Yamaha 681 and 683 which are not in the league of the higher Advantage yet I can set separate crossovers for every speaker.I think you need to take another shot at running YPAO and the go back and try to manually set crossovers again.
I'll just say that I've had my receiver for some time and I've scoured through the menu's and I have not come across a setting for individual speaker crossovers. The Yamaha 681 is a recent model year receiver (2017?). I suspect that the individual crossover setting in YPAO was incorporated in all receivers after the model year of my 1040. Dolby Atmos was not available on the RXA-1040 but it was on the 2040/3040 via firmware upgrade. The next year Dolby Atmos was available on all Aventage models so I conclude that the ability to do individual crossovers came with the Atmos capability.

I will take this up in my Aventage 1040 owner's thread. I don't mean to hi-jack the Polk thread with receiver talk.

I'm much rather discuss the FXiA4 vs RTiA1
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post #45282 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 12:09 AM
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I'll just say that I've had my receiver for some time and I've scoured through the menu's and I have not come across a setting for individual speaker crossovers. The Yamaha 681 is a recent model year receiver (2017?). I suspect that the individual crossover setting in YPAO was incorporated in all receivers after the model year of my 1040. Dolby Atmos was not available on the RXA-1040 but it was on the 2040/3040 via firmware upgrade. The next year Dolby Atmos was available on all Aventage models so I conclude that the ability to do individual crossovers came with the Atmos capability.

I will take this up in my Aventage 1040 owner's thread. I don't mean to hi-jack the Polk thread with receiver talk.

I'm much rather discuss the FXiA4 vs RTiA1
What year is your AVR? Mine is from 2015. I don't think speaker crossover is specific to Atmos, it's basic bass management.

At any rate - My choice between the FXiA4 or the RTiA1 would be the RTiA1.

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post #45283 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 04:46 AM
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What year is your AVR? Mine is from 2015. I don't think speaker crossover is specific to Atmos, it's basic bass management.

At any rate - My choice between the FXiA4 or the RTiA1 would be the RTiA1.
I've been doing some reading about Bipole/Dipole/Monopole and it seems to be that the Monopole (RtiA1) would be the way to go as an all purpose speaker. Meaning, when I decide to use all channel mode for music, the A1's would sound way more natural than FXi's.

It seems like the bi/di speakers will always provide diffuse sound, it's just a matter of whether it's in phase or our of phase.

My particular issue with using A1's is speaker placement. My speakers are mounted to the side wall. If I get the A1's and hang them up as-is, then they would be facing each other. I would need to buy some sort of swivel or articulating mount to point the speakers slightly inward so they point to the listening position. I have an articulating mount for my Atlantic Tech speakers but they are specially made for he speakers. I don't think they'll fit the A1's
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post #45284 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 09:38 AM
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Received my 707's and 706 last week from Adorama. Loving them so far even though I really haven't had the time to enjoy them.
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post #45285 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 10:59 AM
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I've been doing some reading about Bipole/Dipole/Monopole and it seems to be that the Monopole (RtiA1) would be the way to go as an all purpose speaker. Meaning, when I decide to use all channel mode for music, the A1's would sound way more natural than FXi's.

It seems like the bi/di speakers will always provide diffuse sound, it's just a matter of whether it's in phase or our of phase.

My particular issue with using A1's is speaker placement. My speakers are mounted to the side wall. If I get the A1's and hang them up as-is, then they would be facing each other. I would need to buy some sort of swivel or articulating mount to point the speakers slightly inward so they point to the listening position. I have an articulating mount for my Atlantic Tech speakers but they are specially made for he speakers. I don't think they'll fit the A1's
If you are wall mounting, I use these:

https://www.primecables.ca/p-370483-...ck-primecables

They go as wide as 11", hold a considerable amount of weight, and have 180 degree swivel (plus they tilt downwards/upwards about 7.5 degrees if you nee to do that, too).
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post #45286 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan Statz View Post
If you are wall mounting, I use these:

https://www.primecables.ca/p-370483-...ck-primecables

They go as wide as 11", hold a considerable amount of weight, and have 180 degree swivel (plus they tilt downwards/upwards about 7.5 degrees if you nee to do that, too).
That looks good. I was looking at a similar device on Crutchfield.com, a clamping style speaker mount. Not sure what I want to do yet. One of my surround speakers is on a wall just to the right of the doorway. There's only about 9" between the door frame and the ceiling. My current speaker just fits in that space and you can open the door without hitting the speakers.

The FXia4's and RTiA1's are about the same height, ~12inches. At that height, the door will collide into the speaker when it's opened all the way. The FXi is about 8" deep, where the A1 is about 12" deep. That could make a huge difference. With the RTi I could install a door-stop on the hinge to prevent collisions and the door would still open almost all the way. With the A1 being so deep (and adding the depth of the mount), the door would feel awkwardly short when opening it.

I could try to find a ceiling mount and hang the A1 from the ceiling and turn it sideways so it's horizontal. That would also allow the door to swing all the way.

Viken K.

Last edited by VikenK; 10-21-2019 at 02:07 PM.
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post #45287 of 45479 Old 10-21-2019, 06:33 PM
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Received my 707's and 706 last week from Adorama. Loving them so far even though I really haven't had the time to enjoy them.
Your front stage looks pretty stellar!!

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post #45288 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 12:18 AM
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Received my 707's and 706 last week from Adorama. Loving them so far even though I really haven't had the time to enjoy them.
Your setup looks great!! I hope to copy you soon BUT I HAVE TO SELL MY RTIA9S FIRST! No room to store them and my wife has already given me the stink eye .

So, if anyone is looking for a set of Rtia9s and an A6 center, please look at the classified section!

Look forward to copying you!

LG 65"C9/ RTIa9's/ CSIa6/ Yamaha 1060/ Emotiva 2 channel amp/ PSA V3601/ LG 4k Bluray

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post #45289 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 05:29 AM
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Your setup looks great!! I hope to copy you soon BUT I HAVE TO SELL MY RTIA9S FIRST! No room to store them and my wife has already given me the stink eye .

So, if anyone is looking for a set of Rtia9s and an A6 center, please look at the classified section!

Look forward to copying you!

LG 65"C9/ RTIa9's/ CSIa6/ Yamaha 1060/ Emotiva 2 channel amp/ PSA V3601/ LG 4k Bluray

I know the feeling! I had to sell my RTi70's and CSi40 before I was permitted to pull the trigger on the LSiM speakers. Not that my wife was upset about me buying new speakers, just no place to store the old ones.
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post #45290 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 09:01 AM
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I know the feeling! I had to sell my RTi70's and CSi40 before I was permitted to pull the trigger on the LSiM speakers. Not that my wife was upset about me buying new speakers, just no place to store the old ones.
How would folks compare the LSi M703 vs the Wharfedale Reva for 2ch music (not HT)? While the LSi M703 is certainly high quality, I feel Polk's signature US sound will be a tad brighter than the Reva?
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post #45291 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Vikram Iyengar View Post
How would folks compare the LSi M703 vs the Wharfedale Reva for 2ch music (not HT)? While the LSi M703 is certainly high quality, I feel Polk's signature US sound will be a tad brighter than the Reva?
The 703s have been noted by many to be very good for music - if they weren't so expensive in Canada, I'd probably have them over the RTiA series. They are 3-way speakers, which has its advantages, especially for 2ch audio.

If it's possible to check them out on Crutchfield through their compare app, I'd give them a shot.
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post #45292 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 12:57 PM
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The 703s have been noted by many to be very good for music - if they weren't so expensive in Canada, I'd probably have them over the RTiA series. They are 3-way speakers, which has its advantages, especially for 2ch audio.

If it's possible to check them out on Crutchfield through their compare app, I'd give them a shot.
What is the advantage of a 3-way speaker over 2-way for 2ch audio if one also has a sub? (As you know I'm also considering Wharfedale Evo 4.2 that is 3-way).

I feel a 2-way is same as 3-way if one has a sub.
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post #45293 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 01:13 PM
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What is the advantage of a 3-way speaker over 2-way for 2ch audio if one also has a sub? (As you know I'm also considering Wharfedale Evo 4.2 that is 3-way).

I feel a 2-way is same as 3-way if one has a sub.
I think it would still have the same effect when properly crossed over. Even 3-way speakers can't play the bass frequencies as efficiently as a good subwoofer, so there is still a benefit to having a sub even with 3-way speakers. The sub will still handle all of the grunt work, leaving the woofers of the speakers to focus on the mid-bass, bass and highs. I suspect it might be a little cleaner with the 3-way since some of the load is already taken off of the woofer by the mid-woofer. That's all just guessing, though - I suspect/hope someone with more knowledge of the inner-workings of a loudspeaker will correct me if I am wrong or not even close.
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post #45294 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 04:53 PM
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I think it would still have the same effect when properly crossed over. Even 3-way speakers can't play the bass frequencies as efficiently as a good subwoofer, so there is still a benefit to having a sub even with 3-way speakers. The sub will still handle all of the grunt work, leaving the woofers of the speakers to focus on the mid-bass, bass and highs. I suspect it might be a little cleaner with the 3-way since some of the load is already taken off of the woofer by the mid-woofer. That's all just guessing, though - I suspect/hope someone with more knowledge of the inner-workings of a loudspeaker will correct me if I am wrong or not even close.
I'm a little wary of Polk after my experience with the Signatures. I feel it's basically a lower-end company (speakers frequently on sale) that may make expensive, better quality product but still mainly a lower-end company. Hence, it may be better to seek out a company that does not make lower-end product at all. Stereophile's review of Polk LSi M703 says Dynaudio Excite and Monitor Audio Silver both performed better than LSi M703. I feel Polk is fine to buy but at 50% cost only.
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post #45295 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 05:24 PM
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I'm a little wary of Polk after my experience with the Signatures. I feel it's basically a lower-end company (speakers frequently on sale) that may make expensive, better quality product but still mainly a lower-end company. Hence, it may be better to seek out a company that does not make lower-end product at all. Stereophile's review of Polk LSi M703 says Dynaudio Excite and Monitor Audio Silver both performed better than LSi M703. I feel Polk is fine to buy but at 50% cost only.
If that is how you feel you shouldn't be considering Wharfedale.
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post #45296 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 05:39 PM
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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread

Hey @Geoff4RFC


My Sub game is on point....

Building two of these



.
.
.
.
.
.
.
with 21s........

That’s right.... 21” drivers.....

.
.
.
.
.
.

WITH my wife on board........


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Setup | Custom MiniDSP Build | FS: If its For Sale, find it all (here)
Quote: There exists, for everyone, a sentence - a series of words - that has the power to destroy you. Another sentence exists, another series of words, that could heal you. If you're lucky you will get the 2nd, but you can be certain of getting the 1st. - Philip K. Dick

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post #45297 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 06:38 PM
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Hey @Geoff4RFC


My Sub game is on point....

Building two of these



.
.
.
.
.
.
.
with 21s........

That’s right.... 21” drivers.....

.
.
.
.
.
.

WITH my wife on board........


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol, if anyone deserves that deal, it's you. I remember how you managed so very long without any subs at all...…...oh crap, I think you and I switched places

Can't wait to see the final product!!

Set up:
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Mains: PolkAudio LSiM707, C 706, SS 702, RS RTiA9
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post #45298 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 06:43 PM
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I know the feeling! I had to sell my RTi70's and CSi40 before I was permitted to pull the trigger on the LSiM speakers. Not that my wife was upset about me buying new speakers, just no place to store the old ones.
I'm curious, what are you using to power them?

LG 65"C9/ RTIa9's/ CSIa6/ Yamaha 1060/ Emotiva 2 channel amp/ PSA V3601/ LG 4k Bluray

Yamaha RX-A 1060
Emotiva BASX A3
Polk Audio RTi A9
Polk Audio CSi A6
PSA V3601
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post #45299 of 45479 Old 10-22-2019, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Vikram Iyengar View Post
I'm a little wary of Polk after my experience with the Signatures. I feel it's basically a lower-end company (speakers frequently on sale) that may make expensive, better quality product but still mainly a lower-end company. Hence, it may be better to seek out a company that does not make lower-end product at all. Stereophile's review of Polk LSi M703 says Dynaudio Excite and Monitor Audio Silver both performed better than LSi M703. I feel Polk is fine to buy but at 50% cost only.
The Signatures aren't very high on their range of models, though - the LSiMs were their flagship line up until the new Legend line was released. Now is a great time to pick up a pair of LSiMs in the US because they're on some crazy super sales all over the place. The 703s have been recommended countless times here for music, so I don't think you can go wrong, and I wouldn't discount them so easily.
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post #45300 of 45479 Old 10-23-2019, 05:08 AM
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I'm curious, what are you using to power them?

LG 65"C9/ RTIa9's/ CSIa6/ Yamaha 1060/ Emotiva 2 channel amp/ PSA V3601/ LG 4k Bluray

I'm using a Outlaw 7900 (300x7) to power my main 7 speakers and a Outlaw 5000 (120x5) to power my in-ceiling speakers. My processor is the Anthem AVM60.
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