Definitive Owners Thread - Page 1171 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #35101 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:12 AM
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I recently acquired a pair of DefTech BP 2004's. I'm in need of a replacement gain potentiometer of perhaps replacing the entire LFE input board. The potentiometer is broken and now longer allows adjustment.

Can anyone recommend where I can obtain replacement parts?

Thanks,
Kevin
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post #35102 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilldoBaggins1 View Post
Hello all noob here,

I have a question that hopefully one of you may know the answer to. I recently purchased a pair of BP9060 Towers and the Center to go with it, and a Marantz SR6011 AVR (First setup ever). I set up everything last night and everything worked great, however this morning when i powered on the AVR, the speakers did not turn on. I fiddled with everything and couldnt get anything to work. I did notice the LED on the back was blue last nigh, and was red this morning, but i havent been able to find anything online about the "auto power" light. Are the speakers bad or am i just dumb?

Thanks,
Will
do they work? or just no light?
they do not come one with the avr
they only come one when there is speaker output, they are in standby until then
the speaker signal is supposed to activate the internal speaker amp


Your BP9000 speakers contain built-in powered subwoofers that must be plugged into an electrical socket. The
BP9000 has a signal detection feature that only turns the amplifier on when a signal is present. The LED on the back
will turn from Red to Blue when a signal is sensed. The "D." LED logo on the front will also turn on if enabled (see
Definitive Technology "D." LED Logo section for more information). After the cessation of a signal, it may take up
to 20 minutes for the amplifier to standby. Do not be concerned, the amplifiers draw little power when they are idle

source: https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/a...20161003165514

Audyssey is a great start, but not always a great finish.
Receiver:Marantz SR-7012, Speakers:Def Tech ST-8060 towers, CS-8040 center, SR-8040 surrounds, Pro Monitor 1000 heights
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post #35103 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlefoott View Post
do they work? or just no light?
they do not come one with the avr
they only come one when there is speaker output, they are in standby until then
the speaker signal is supposed to activate the internal speaker amp
They wouldnt turn on with the AVR this morning, tried playing music, cable box, etc, and nothing happened.
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post #35104 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlefoott View Post
do they work? or just no light?
they do not come one with the avr
they only come one when there is speaker output, they are in standby until then
the speaker signal is supposed to activate the internal speaker amp


Your BP9000 speakers contain built-in powered subwoofers that must be plugged into an electrical socket. The
BP9000 has a signal detection feature that only turns the amplifier on when a signal is present. The LED on the back
will turn from Red to Blue when a signal is sensed. The "D." LED logo on the front will also turn on if enabled (see
Definitive Technology "D." LED Logo section for more information). After the cessation of a signal, it may take up
to 20 minutes for the amplifier to standby. Do not be concerned, the amplifiers draw little power when they are idle
Everything is plugged in corectly, had it all working last night. Its just weird that i couldnt get anything to happen before i left for class. Will try a few more things before i head to work.

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post #35105 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilldoBaggins1 View Post
They wouldnt turn on with the AVR this morning, tried playing music, cable box, etc, and nothing happened.
I would call def tech support - https://www.definitivetechnology.com/contact-us
they are excellent
good luck I hope its something simple.

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post #35106 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 09:37 AM
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unless the avr was set to zone 2?

Audyssey is a great start, but not always a great finish.
Receiver:Marantz SR-7012, Speakers:Def Tech ST-8060 towers, CS-8040 center, SR-8040 surrounds, Pro Monitor 1000 heights
Subwoofer: SVS PB-2000
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post #35107 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlefoott View Post
unless the avr was set to zone 2?
Hopefully it's that lol, definitely will be calling them if I can't get it going lol

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Samsung 55" KS8500; Samsung UBD-8500
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post #35108 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilldoBaggins1 View Post
Hopefully it's that lol, definitely will be calling them if I can't get it going lol

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
after thinking about it a little the issue would be the marantz, not the speakers.
hopefully it's just a zone 2 setting, but the chance of 3 speakers not working at the same time is crazy so the common denominator is the avr
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Receiver:Marantz SR-7012, Speakers:Def Tech ST-8060 towers, CS-8040 center, SR-8040 surrounds, Pro Monitor 1000 heights
Subwoofer: SVS PB-2000
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post #35109 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 12:25 PM
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when i 1st got my 8060s using my yamaha avr the light would stay red sometimes even when everything was powered up & playing- called DT & they told me to ck level setting on the AVR for subwoofer if it was set to minus level or to 0 - try setting it to 2 or 3 & see if speakers powered up quicker- that did it- so ur issue could be the level of the subs in the 9060 maybe too low by AVR or turned down too low on back of 9060s.
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post #35110 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpctoy View Post
I recently acquired a pair of DefTech BP 2004's. I'm in need of a replacement gain potentiometer of perhaps replacing the entire LFE input board. The potentiometer is broken and now longer allows adjustment.

Can anyone recommend where I can obtain replacement parts?

Thanks,
Kevin
First e-mail DefTech, don't worry about how old the speaker is or that you're not the original owner, if they can help you they will! Even if they don't have the part, they should be able to come up with a spec on it.

Other option would be to check e-bay, some people will part out speakers when one goes bad, but of course, that can be hit or miss.

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post #35111 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilldoBaggins1 View Post
They wouldnt turn on with the AVR this morning, tried playing music, cable box, etc, and nothing happened.


Quote:
Originally Posted by littlefoott View Post
after thinking about it a little the issue would be the marantz, not the speakers.
hopefully it's just a zone 2 setting, but the chance of 3 speakers not working at the same time is crazy so the common denominator is the avr
It has to be something in the AVR, regardless of the lights for the amps changing colors or not, they only effect the powered portion of the speaker, not the Mids and Highs so you would have still gotten sound.

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post #35112 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 01:01 PM
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Hi all--

I was going to post this as a separate thread but maybe I'll try here first.

I have a pair of DefTech BP7006 speakers, both with dead amplifiers for the powered subwoofers. But, I have a Rhythmik LV-12R sub, and I've been using the system (with an inexpensive Yamaha RX-V471) as a 2.1 setup (95% music, 5% movies). I don't really want to pay for replacement sub amps, because I have the LV-12R. Seems to me that if I wanted to improve the speakers, I'd just replace them entirely with something that better matched the LV-12R.

It actually sounds OK to my ear, although I'm a noob, and maybe it's actually terrible. I figured I'd ask the experts:

1. What's the best approach for optimizing this semi-broken setup? "Small" speaker setting, I assume, on the AVR? Where should I set the AVR crossover? I think I read somewhere that the BP7006s cross to their own subs at 120hz...so, cross there?

2. Maybe a question for another section, but should I run the YPAO program on the AVR? I've never done it.

3. Is this situation just generally a disaster, and should I just get new speakers? Or, are the BP7006s, when used as the worlds heaviest/largest bookshelf setup, still decent equipment compared to, say, $250-$500 alternatives (something like Elac B5/B6/F5, which I've had my eye on).
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post #35113 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcitrus View Post
Hi all--

I was going to post this as a separate thread but maybe I'll try here first.

I have a pair of DefTech BP7006 speakers, both with dead amplifiers for the powered subwoofers. But, I have a Rhythmik LV-12R sub, and I've been using the system (with an inexpensive Yamaha RX-V471) as a 2.1 setup (95% music, 5% movies). I don't really want to pay for replacement sub amps, because I have the LV-12R. Seems to me that if I wanted to improve the speakers, I'd just replace them entirely with something that better matched the LV-12R.

It actually sounds OK to my ear, although I'm a noob, and maybe it's actually terrible. I figured I'd ask the experts:

1. What's the best approach for optimizing this semi-broken setup? "Small" speaker setting, I assume, on the AVR? Where should I set the AVR crossover? I think I read somewhere that the BP7006s cross to their own subs at 120hz...so, cross there?

2. Maybe a question for another section, but should I run the YPAO program on the AVR? I've never done it.

3. Is this situation just generally a disaster, and should I just get new speakers? Or, are the BP7006s, when used as the worlds heaviest/largest bookshelf setup, still decent equipment compared to, say, $250-$500 alternatives (something like Elac B5/B6/F5, which I've had my eye on).
First, everyone hears and appreciates different sounds, so if it sounds good to you, it is right. May not be technically perfect, but you're the one listening, do don't stress right or wrong.
Next, e-mail DefTech, don't worry about the age of the speaker or if you're the original owner, if they have some NOS amps for those speakers they will help you.

1. Yes, AVR crossover, those are 4.5" divers so normally yes, 100-120Hz, but there are 4 of them, so experiment with lower, just choose what sounds best to you.
(Basic rule of thumb is to find the lowest point to where the speaker starts to break up or sound bad, and then set it 1 step higher)

2. You can try it if you like, but with a 2.1 setup, your ears should do the job just fine.

3. This is entirely up to you, but no, with a separate sub, it's not the end of the world, esp if you like the way they sound. You may be able to find something today sounds as good or better for that money, but again that's strictly up to you, the one thing that you will find is something that sounds different, esp considering that DefTech does have a signature sound and those are bi-poles, and they will image completely different from a mono-pole.

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post #35114 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcitrus View Post
Hi all--

I was going to post this as a separate thread but maybe I'll try here first.

I have a pair of DefTech BP7006 speakers, both with dead amplifiers for the powered subwoofers. But, I have a Rhythmik LV-12R sub, and I've been using the system (with an inexpensive Yamaha RX-V471) as a 2.1 setup (95% music, 5% movies). I don't really want to pay for replacement sub amps, because I have the LV-12R. Seems to me that if I wanted to improve the speakers, I'd just replace them entirely with something that better matched the LV-12R.

It actually sounds OK to my ear, although I'm a noob, and maybe it's actually terrible. I figured I'd ask the experts:

1. What's the best approach for optimizing this semi-broken setup? "Small" speaker setting, I assume, on the AVR? Where should I set the AVR crossover? I think I read somewhere that the BP7006s cross to their own subs at 120hz...so, cross there?

2. Maybe a question for another section, but should I run the YPAO program on the AVR? I've never done it.

3. Is this situation just generally a disaster, and should I just get new speakers? Or, are the BP7006s, when used as the worlds heaviest/largest bookshelf setup, still decent equipment compared to, say, $250-$500 alternatives (something like Elac B5/B6/F5, which I've had my eye on).


use a frequency generator and see what the speakers can respond too
http://onlinetonegenerator.com/frequ...generator.html

I just tried my 8060's with the power unplugged
they respond ok'ish

but definitely better with power
mine are crossed at 60hz
I did a 10 second sweep from 40-100hz to make sure i covered the sub crossover and speaker woofer

*edit* just found a replacement amp for 30 bucks on ebay (it's a start)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Definitive-T...0AAOSww9VXg~6f

Audyssey is a great start, but not always a great finish.
Receiver:Marantz SR-7012, Speakers:Def Tech ST-8060 towers, CS-8040 center, SR-8040 surrounds, Pro Monitor 1000 heights
Subwoofer: SVS PB-2000
TV: 65" LG UG8700 remote: Harmony 1000

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post #35115 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 02:35 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys, I'll do some experimenting with settings and see what I can discover.

I realize that sound quality is subjective, and if it makes me happy then it's good--but with no real basis for comparison, I guess I'm just curious if I'm really missing out in that gray area between the top halves of my BP7006s and my LV12R. Probably the only way I'll find out is when I hear someone else's incredible system!
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post #35116 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcitrus View Post
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll do some experimenting with settings and see what I can discover.

I realize that sound quality is subjective, and if it makes me happy then it's good--but with no real basis for comparison, I guess I'm just curious if I'm really missing out in that gray area between the top halves of my BP7006s and my LV12R. Probably the only way I'll find out is when I hear someone else's incredible system!
Honestly, if it were a small bookshelf speaker with a single 4.5 & tweeter I'd be a lot more worried about good transition between the two, but with the 4 mid drivers, they're probably doing a decent job.

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post #35117 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendtoy View Post
I use Mythos Gem XL's for the surrounds and BP 8060 towers and center up front. They provide a nice cohesive sound field for both movies and multichannel music. Stylistically they work well together as well.


The key (IMO) is to make sure they use the same drivers if possible. In my case both speakers use the same 4.5 inch mid-bass drivers.
I contacted Def Tech before buying my Mytho 2's, Pro Center 1000 and Di 5.5 R's and they informed me all there speakers are designed and timbre match for optimum sound. Driver size wasn't even a issue. But your right having all drivers the same size would be ideal.
I agree, my speakers together do a amazing job in filling my living room with a nice balanced sound field with excellent mids and smooth seamless high's.
I do have the benefit of having a tame room and Audyssey room calibration which helps considerably from them being overly bright as some people say Def Techs are.

(Living Room) Sony XBR-65X900E 4K TV, Sony UBP-X800 4K BD player, Pioneer SC-LX502, Def Tech BP9020's, A90 atmos, CS-9040 C and Di 5.5R surrounds

(Garage) Sherwood RX-4105 Receiver, Samsung DVD/CD player, Klipsch 2.5 med oak speakers
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post #35118 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 05:17 PM
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Yup, the whole idea is simply trying to match sounds as seamlessly as possible. So it really boils down to how sensitive you are to it, or how finicky (me) you want to be with it.
1st step, you timbre match.
2nd step, you timbre and driver match.
3rd step, you exact speaker match.
Gets no better than that.
Final step is to try and explain to your significant other why there's giant tower speakers all over your room...

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post #35119 of 40718 Old 01-26-2017, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by darknite9099 View Post
I'm gonna get trashed for this, but here goes. Timbre matching is really important in your front sound stage, LCR. Surrounds and ATMOS, not so much if at all, don't worry about it with the 8080SRs.

The BPX has 5 1/4 mids compared to 4 1/2 mids in the SP8080, so you will get slightly lower frequency response/range with the BPX. Again, the 8080s are great surrounds, I wouldn't stress about trying to find BPXs, or worry about the Timbre matching with the bp10s and clr2300
Thank you for the advice just saw your post. I will search for used sm450 booksheves though. The newer sm55s are curved on top and I found out also have passive radiators on top making it impossible to put atmos modules on top.
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
Ditto, all of DefTech's speakers timbre match, so no issues there.
For the rears, with 8080's as surrounds, i think I'd go with either PM1000's, SM45's or SM350's or even PM800's, honestly with the SR8080's, the 55's or 450's would be overkill. But in reality any of these would be fine, just find the best deal.
If you didn't have the 8080's it would be a different story, but when your dealing with a pair of bi-poles and a pair of mono-poles, usually the bi-poles work better as surrounds.
Thanks for the advice. Something I neglected to mention is I want my rear effects speakers (which I will have directly behind my couch) to have atmos modules on top. Looking at the measurements of the sm350 I discovered the top is not quite big enough for any of the atmos modules I'm considering. Also I just discovered the sm55's have a passive radiator on top disallowing me to put anything on top. Only other option would be get sm45's or 350's and screw a homemade box to the speaker stand to put the speaker in so I can put atmos modules on top of that. That would to be a real pain in the rear to do.

If you or anyone else have a lead on some used sm450's you/they would be my hero.

Ps: I most likely will go with the kef atmos modules as they also have aluminum tweeters and will timbre match best. It's going to pain me to spend nearly 2/3 of the cost that I spent on all 7 of my other speakers just on 2 atmos speakers however the reviews on them are great.
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post #35121 of 40718 Old 01-27-2017, 12:34 AM
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Thanks for the advice. Something I neglected to mention is I want my rear effects speakers (which I will have directly behind my couch) to have atmos modules on top. Looking at the measurements of the sm350 I discovered the top is not quite big enough for any of the atmos modules I'm considering. Also I just discovered the sm55's have a passive radiator on top disallowing me to put anything on top. Only other option would be get sm45's or 350's and screw a homemade box to the speaker stand to put the speaker in so I can put atmos modules on top of that. That would to be a real pain in the rear to do.

If you or anyone else have a lead on some used sm450's you/they would be my hero.

Ps: I most likely will go with the kef atmos modules as they also have aluminum tweeters and will timbre match best. It's going to pain me to spend nearly 2/3 of the cost that I spent on all 7 of my other speakers just on 2 atmos speakers however the reviews on them are great.
If you've looked at my build I use 450's for all my height speakers, you won't be disappointed. Best suggestion is to just keep watching e-bay for some to pop up.
I don't remember, you can't do height speakers instead of modules?

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post #35122 of 40718 Old 01-27-2017, 02:21 PM
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Hi Everyone -

Hoping someone can help me out. I'm looking to add ATMOS speakers to my setup but I can't do in-ceiling or on-ceiling speakers. So I'm trying to figure out what my options are. I know there are a couple of companies that make add on speakers that fire up to the ceiling and reflect down on the MLP. Are those any good? And if so which ones would match my current DefTechs(2 x BP2002tl, CLR2002, 4 x BPX). Or should I just purchase something like the Pro Monitor 1000, mount that up close to the ceiling above my front speakers and aim it down to the MLP. I'd appreciate anyone's input. Thanks.
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post #35123 of 40718 Old 01-27-2017, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bowlingbeeg View Post
Hi Everyone -

Hoping someone can help me out. I'm looking to add ATMOS speakers to my setup but I can't do in-ceiling or on-ceiling speakers. So I'm trying to figure out what my options are. I know there are a couple of companies that make add on speakers that fire up to the ceiling and reflect down on the MLP. Are those any good? And if so which ones would match my current DefTechs(2 x BP2002tl, CLR2002, 4 x BPX). Or should I just purchase something like the Pro Monitor 1000, mount that up close to the ceiling above my front speakers and aim it down to the MLP. I'd appreciate anyone's input. Thanks.
I haven't heard any of the newer upfiring modules, but of the earlier demos I heard, upfiring would be my last choice if I had any other options at all.
2 questions:
- x.x.2 or x.x.4
- Can you install height (on wall, at the ceiling) speakers on your side walls, if you have side walls that is...

*Warning* None of my suggestions, ideas or even thoughts have any WAF, in any way!
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Last edited by ALtlOff; 01-27-2017 at 11:30 PM.
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post #35124 of 40718 Old 01-27-2017, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
I haven't heard any of the newer upfiring modules, but off the earlier demos I heard, upfiring would be my last choice if I had any other options at all.
2 questions:
- x.x.2 or x.x.4
- Can you install height (on wall, at the ceiling) speakers on your side walls, if you have side walls that is...
It will be 7.1.2 and no, my only option for placement is on the front wall.
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post #35125 of 40718 Old 01-27-2017, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bowlingbeeg View Post
It will be 7.1.2 and no, my only option for placement is on the front wall.
Then yes, a pair of PM1000's would be a perfect match, on the front wall, above the fronts. But I wouldn't point them toward the MLP, point them straight out and as level as possible, this will keep the accuracy for the movement on the screen and also give you the best illusion of above and over you, tilting them down toward the MLP can lessen the overhead effect, esp with a x.x.2 setup.
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post #35126 of 40718 Old 01-28-2017, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
If you're not running a separate Subwoofer, then don't bother, run speaker wire only, set your Denon to Front Speakers "Large" and your Sub to "No/None".
This will automatically mix the LFE into the Front Speakers and allow the crossovers built into the Speakers do the blending.
Just as a PSA to my fellow Definitive Technology owners, I would encourage everyone running a setup of LARGE with SUB = NO and relying on their receiver to downmix the LFE into the L/R to download one of the Dolby channel check demos to verify that their receiver actually does this. Many modern receivers will drop the LFE channel when downmixing with SUB set to no. I know that other brands of speakers with powered subwoofers and LFE inputs (read: Goldenear) have taken note of this fact and are now recommending use of the LFE input with SUB = YES and speakers set to LARGE.

My Pioneer Elite is one of many models that will drop the LFE channel. In fact, it appears that for Dolby, dropping the LFE channel during downmixing is part of the spec (see Section 4: Downmixing):
https://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/...data.Guide.pdf
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post #35127 of 40718 Old 01-28-2017, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
Then yes, a pair of PM1000's would be a perfect match, on the front wall, above the fronts. But I wouldn't point them toward the MLP, point them straight out and as level as possible, this will keep the accuracy for the movement on the screen and also give you the best illusion of above and over you, tilting them down toward the MLP can lessen the overhead effect, esp with a x.x.2 setup.
Thanks ALtloff ... So would I set those up in my Denon x4300h as height or Dolby speakers? And if height is the answer do I select Front Height or Top Front? I will probably experiment just to see what the difference is but thought it would be good to have a starting point.
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post #35128 of 40718 Old 01-28-2017, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bowlingbeeg View Post
Thanks ALtloff ... So would I set those up in my Denon x4300h as height or Dolby speakers? And if height is the answer do I select Front Height or Top Front? I will probably experiment just to see what the difference is but thought it would be good to have a starting point.
You will be selecting Front Height.
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post #35129 of 40718 Old 01-28-2017, 08:30 AM
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Thanks for the info and explanations. I think I may just go with *OPTION 2* to allow the Denon AVR-X4300H handle the bass management. To me, I have the best of both worlds [Denon AVR & DT Speakers]. Regardless, what I have now puts to shame my previous surround sound set up (15+ yr old Bose Acoustimass 10 Series II) when it comes to bass and overall sound quality.
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Originally Posted by nativecodder View Post
Take this for what it's worth but check out the video link. I use option 3. I have the BP-8060's for the front's and center, and the SR-8040's for my surrounds. I have a Yamaha Aventage RX-A850 receiver.

I was using option 2 initially, but went to option 3. I don't have a separate subwoofer, but using the built-in woofers. I do use subwoofer cable to each LFE port on the main 8060's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GG3WoFo9Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash676 View Post
Just as a PSA to my fellow Definitive Technology owners, I would encourage everyone running a setup of LARGE with SUB = NO and relying on their receiver to downmix the LFE into the L/R to download one of the Dolby channel check demos to verify that their receiver actually does this. Many modern receivers will drop the LFE channel when downmixing with SUB set to no. I know that other brands of speakers with powered subwoofers and LFE inputs (read: Goldenear) have taken note of this fact and are now recommending use of the LFE input with SUB = YES and speakers set to LARGE.

My Pioneer Elite is one of many models that will drop the LFE channel. In fact, it appears that for Dolby, dropping the LFE channel during downmixing is part of the spec (see Section 4: Downmixing):
https://www.dolby.com/uploadedFiles/...data.Guide.pdf
I was running my DT-BP9060's this way [Speaker = Large / Sub = Yes / LFE Connection to AVR]. It seemed the LED 'D' logo wasn't / didn't illuminate very often on the BP-9060's. I recently changed the set up of my DT-9060's to another recommended option [Speaker = Small / Sub = Yes / LFE Connection to AVR / Crossover = 80Mz]. It seems that the LED 'D' logo stays illuminated all the time now when watching TV / Movies / Gaming.

The YouTube video above (from Audioholics) gives a good explanation of three different options for powered Tower Speakers w/ built-in subwoofers.
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post #35130 of 40718 Old 01-28-2017, 08:36 AM
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Hi All,


I am new here. Could you please suggest where should I start looking for used Def Tech ProCinema 600 5.1 system? And also suggest the price range I should spend on the used system. I am not in the position to buy new at $500+


Also you suggest with or without def tech sub? I have old Polk PSW10 in excellent working condition.


Thanks in advance..
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