Definitive Owners Thread - Page 1313 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #39361 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
I would recommend you experiment with all options and possibilities except the LFE + Main. Don't use it.


I would also encourage you to read this: Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences It is a very thorough but concise guide that will address all your questions above.


Personally, I run my 9040's as small w/ 80htz crossover and my subs handle all the low end. Others run w/ LFE split to their towers and prefer that. You'll just have to see what works best for your goals, preferences and room.
Thanks I started reading the guide but a lot of it went over my head. I'll dig in again today.
If I set the crossover to 80Hz on the 9060's, doesn't that negate the value of the 9060's in general since part of the cost is for its integrated woofers? They seem to have +/- 3db at around 36Hz or something I thought. I guess I'm just wondering if I'd be getting my money's worth if I don't utilize its full capable range. I like the wide soundstage from the bipolar speakers and the overall sound for movies, but if I don't use the active woofers would I be better off getting separate bookshelves and saving money?

edit: just a read a more concise explanation here: http://www.subwoofer101.com/setting-...uble-bass-etc/
Seems like even setting a crossover at 80Hz doesn't mean the signal below that will be cut off, since it's just a 12db/octave soft filter for the "small" speakers. So I can see why that would work even for 9060's which can go down to 36Hz pretty easily.

In this case, I should set my 9060's (and eventually CS0960 when I get it) to small, set a crossover at 80Hz, use LFE for sub and set its crossover at 80 or 120Hz. Does that sound right?
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post #39362 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bakerjin View Post
Thanks I started reading the guide but a lot of it went over my head. I'll dig in again today.
If I set the crossover to 80Hz on the 9060's, doesn't that negate the value of the 9060's in general since part of the cost is for its integrated woofers? They seem to have +/- 3db at around 36Hz or something I thought. I guess I'm just wondering if I'd be getting my money's worth if I don't utilize its full capable range. I like the wide soundstage from the bipolar speakers and the overall sound for movies, but if I don't use the active woofers would I be better off getting separate bookshelves and saving money?
No, the woofer built in is not only for LFE signal. Speakers are made to play a full range signal from high range to low range. They have tweaters, mids, and woofers to distribute the signal internally.

Crossed over at 80hz, you're still engaging the woofer a bit before it transitions the rest to the sub (in this case, separate external sub). You're just not overloading it with really low frequencies PLUS LFE content...you can, but normally a separate sub (i.e. a 15" built specifically for low end) simply does it better.

Experiment with Full range, and use your separate sub for LFE only plus low end of center/surrounds, and then try raising the fronts to small/40, then small/60, then small/80. Also then try y splitting the LFE to the towers if you want, depending on the room, can help fill out any nulls from your sub.

In a properly set up room that's calibrated and equalized, you won't find much difference because a signal is a signal, you just need to find which setup in your system and room is able to do it best.
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post #39363 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 09:36 AM
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There's a lot of talk here regarding what to set the crossover at on the speakers but what are you guys setting your stand "alone" sub/s at?

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post #39364 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
There's a lot of talk here regarding what to set the crossover at on the speakers but what are you guys setting your stand "alone" sub/s at?
I set my LFE low pass to 120htz.

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post #39365 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
I set my LFE low pass to 120htz.
Ok thanks,
But that seems kinda high, do you have any issues with localization?
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post #39366 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
Ok thanks,
But that seems kinda high, do you have any issues with localization?
Not that I've noticed but I don't watch a ton of movies.

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post #39367 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by richstadler View Post
Here is the latest progress. If you have any suggestions I would love to hear them!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtMeCYUX4h8&t=2s

I would definitely try the sub out close to the front or mid wall and face it away from the wall. Try a few locations and see what you think. Being up front would definitely make it less localized.


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post #39368 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
Ok thanks,
But that seems kinda high, do you have any issues with localization?
He's referring to the LPF of LFE, which should be kept at 120.
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post #39369 of 40718 Old 04-28-2018, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
He's referring to the LPF of LFE, which should be kept at 120.
I get that but to me setting the sub crossover in my processor to let my sub come up to 120hz is just way to high.
I'm running six identical powered towers OM-5's with sub controls.. (not just a volume knob like on DT speakers).. that are running full range ( crossover is off on my Anthem avm 60) and I have the sub crossover on the speakers to come up to 110/120hz on all 6 speakers.
For the center Clr3000 I have the Anthem cut it off at 40hz.
On the HSU mk15hp's I have the crossover set to off or out and the Anthem set to 50hz to handle the very low end of things...
Seems to work very well but was wondering what all you guys with powers towers were setting you sub/s at..
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post #39370 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
I get that but to me setting the sub crossover in my processor to let my sub come up to 120hz is just way to high.
I'm running six identical powered towers OM-5's with sub controls.. (not just a volume knob like on DT speakers).. that are running full range ( crossover is off on my Anthem avm 60) and I have the sub crossover on the speakers to come up to 110/120hz on all 6 speakers.
For the center Clr3000 I have the Anthem cut it off at 40hz.
On the HSU mk15hp's I have the crossover set to off or out and the Anthem set to 50hz to handle the very low end of things...
Seems to work very well but was wondering what all you guys with powers towers were setting you sub/s at..
I'm not sure I follow entirely how you have your HSU set up. But with 6 full range towers capable of playing down into the low 20htz range you should not be suffering from any localization issues down low no matter what you put it's settings to.


One general rule of thumb some people follow is to cross their speakers over one octave above their -3db point. Which according to Mirage is 22htz for your OM5's. That's pretty impressive assuming they play clean. Have you tried crossing them over at 40htz and setting your low pass filter to 80htz on the HSU?


But keep in mind, with respect to the LFE channel, movies purposefully program content up to 120htz. So setting your LPF to anything less than that (in the AVR and at the back of the sub) will cause you to loose content.
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post #39371 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 10:57 AM
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@derekmoore ..
I don't have a problem with localization. I was asking what you guys were setting your crossovers at on your stand alone subs that's all.

The response was 120hz.

For me with six powered towers I have come to enjoy the steering you get when it includes full (bass) frequency.

With that said I have the HSU's (in my processor) set to pass 50hz and down. That sweet spot that's just barely in the audible down into the tactical zone.

From there I let the 10.1 earthquakes take over.

For me sub/s are anchors and when set to high in the bandwidth you start to loose your steering.
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post #39372 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 11:35 AM
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Hi everyone!

I am considering replacing my Onkyo TX NR 727 receiver. The reason is mostly that I am hoping to maximise the potential of my Definitive speakers. But I am uncertain what would be a worthwhile replacement and if it will make a noticeable difference.

Therefore I was hoping for some suggestions from you guys!

My set up is: Mythos ST Floor standing speakers in front with the sub channel going through them. Then I have the CS 8060 in the center and two promonitor 800 as surrounds on the sides.

I have considered the Yamaha 2070 and the Denon 4400 but I am not sure what would pair up best with Definitives Mythos ST.

Mostly I use the system for movies but I would really want a great punch when playing hard rock music as well.

Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated!

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post #39373 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
@derekmoore..
I don't have a problem with localization. I was asking what you guys were setting your crossovers at on your stand alone subs that's all.

The response was 120hz.

For me with six powered towers I have come to enjoy the steering you get when it includes full (bass) frequency.

With that said I have the HSU's (in my processor) set to pass 50hz and down. That sweet spot that's just barely in the audible down into the tactical zone.

From there I let the 10.1 earthquakes take over.

For me sub/s are anchors and when set to high in the bandwidth you start to loose your steering.
I'm sure it sounds awesome.
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post #39374 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
@derekmoore ..
I don't have a problem with localization. I was asking what you guys were setting your crossovers at on your stand alone subs that's all.

The response was 120hz.

For me with six powered towers I have come to enjoy the steering you get when it includes full (bass) frequency.

With that said I have the HSU's (in my processor) set to pass 50hz and down. That sweet spot that's just barely in the audible down into the tactical zone.

From there I let the 10.1 earthquakes take over.

For me sub/s are anchors and when set to high in the bandwidth you start to loose your steering.
Maybe I'm misreading but I'm a little confused. If you use the bass management in the AVR, say small with crossover 80hz, that's what the sub would receive at most. The LPF of LFE in the AVR is only for the LFE channel (but rarely ever has anything above 90hz but recommended to keep at 120hz for various reasons).

The crossover setting on the sub itself is usually always at the max still since it never really receives anything higher than 80hz (if your AVR is at small/80) and you don't want to potentially lose info.
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post #39375 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 06:20 PM
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In my experience all of this talk regarding tweaking of crossover settings from 50 to 60 to 80 HZ settings has marginal effect at best. Tuning the room will have a much greater impact to the performance of your speakers.

For instance installing a simple isolation dampening pad can help tune your sub and remove unwanted signal loss and vibration through your walls etc and keep more of the intended signal in the room where it belongs.

https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acous.../dp/B00COVEJ1E

This is just one example of an easy enhancement to your system that you could try.

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post #39376 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Maybe I'm misreading but I'm a little confused. If you use the bass management in the AVR, say small with crossover 80hz, that's what the sub would receive at most. The LPF of LFE in the AVR is only for the LFE channel (but rarely ever has anything above 90hz but recommended to keep at 120hz for various reasons).

The crossover setting on the sub itself is usually always at the max still since it never really receives anything higher than 80hz (if your AVR is at small/80) and you don't want to potentially lose info.
I run my LPF for LFE on my avr at 50hz and set my sub itself all the way up at 150hz and it sounds clean to me while the 8060st's handle the rest, I don't set my towers to large though,just doesnt sound right to me, so I set them to small,no LFE just wired.

I was asking the same question in my mind, why did I buy a pair of mains with powered subwoofers in them to just have to buy a stand alone sub for the lower register and it was explained to me that these towers don't have SUB woofers in them, they are full range with an active woofer,no sub to it.

They go as low as 30 maybe 28hz IMO and sound great doing it,I noticed the difference when I added the stand alone sub,and when you set them up where they blend it's heaven.
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post #39377 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wmessin View Post
In my experience all of this talk regarding tweaking of crossover settings from 50 to 60 to 80 HZ settings has marginal effect at best. Tuning the room will have a much greater impact to the performance of your speakers.

For instance installing a simple isolation dampening pad can help tune your sub and remove unwanted signal loss and vibration through your walls etc and keep more of the intended signal in the room where it belongs.

https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acous.../dp/B00COVEJ1E

This is just one example of an easy enhancement to your system that you could try.
I actually have that exact same pad for my HSU VTF15-MK2

Made a nice difference since I have hard floors

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Originally Posted by markyg66 View Post
I run my LPF for LFE on my avr at 50hz and set my sub itself all the way up at 150hz and it sounds clean to me while the 8060st's handle the rest, I don't set my towers to large though,just doesnt sound right to me, so I set them to small,no LFE just wired.

I was asking the same question in my mind, why did I buy a pair of mains with powered subwoofers in them to just have to buy a stand alone sub for the lower register and it was explained to me that these towers don't have SUB woofers in them, they are full range with an active woofer,no sub to it.

They go as low as 30 maybe 28hz IMO and sound great doing it,I noticed the difference when I added the stand alone sub,and when you set them up where they blend it's heaven.
Putting the LPF of LFE that low though, you're potentially cutting off content authored in the LFE channel.
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post #39379 of 40718 Old 04-29-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Putting the LPF of LFE that low though, you're potentially cutting off content authored in the LFE channel.
That was supposed to have been 80hz,and that's where it sounds good to my ears.

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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Maybe I'm misreading but I'm a little confused. If you use the bass management in the AVR, say small with crossover 80hz, that's what the sub would receive at most. The LPF of LFE in the AVR is only for the LFE channel (but rarely ever has anything above 90hz but recommended to keep at 120hz for various reasons).

The crossover setting on the sub itself is usually always at the max still since it never really receives anything higher than 80hz (if your AVR is at small/80) and you don't want to potentially lose info.
Yes I think you misread, I mean no disrespect but I wasn't looking for advice on how to setup my stuff.

I recently picked up a set of HSU mk15hp's and have been playing around with them. I was asking what you guys are setting your subs at but I overlooked the fact the most of you guys are using small sats or surround speakers and are crossing them over much higher.

Thank you tho for your response.
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post #39381 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
Yes I think you misread, I mean no disrespect but I wasn't looking for advice on how to setup my stuff.

I recently picked up a set of HSU mk15hp's and have been playing around with them. I was asking what you guys are setting your subs at but I overlooked the fact the most of you guys are using small sats or surround speakers and are crossing them over much higher.

Thank you tho for your response.
Most of us have towers and run them as Large or small/80 (or 60 or 40) with or without LFE cable. All kinds of setups. Dials in sub usually at the 8 or 9 o'clock position. Define "much higher".

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post #39382 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Most of us have towers and run them as Large or small/80 (or 60 or 40) with or without LFE cable. All kinds of setups. Dials in sub usually at the 8 or 9 o'clock position. Define "much higher".
I can't help but to think this is going nowhere. To the best of my knowledge you have just contradicted yourself with this.
Even the advice you gave me earlier (that I didn't ask for) never mentioned anything regarding lower then 80hz.

Furthermore I already stated earlier what I set the crossover in the Anthem amv 60 at for my mk15hp's... 50hz

My powered towers differ from DT's because they have true subwoofers and have the ability to be adjusted with both, a crossover and level controls.
Not just an amp and woofer in a box with a volume knob like DT gives you.

Like I said earlier I asked a question and was given an answer of 120hz..
I'm good with that and I realize that that answer was given from a music perspective.

I surely don't want to fight with anyone and don't mean any disrespect in any way.. I think I'm just running my setup a lot differently with its 6 towers/built in true subwoofers and stand alone subs then the normal guy with towers and satellite surrounds crossed over to a sub.

Pardon my long response.
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post #39383 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
I can't help but to think this is going nowhere. To the best of my knowledge you have just contradicted yourself with this.
Even the advice you gave me earlier (that I didn't ask for) never mentioned anything regarding lower then 80hz.

Furthermore I already stated earlier what I set the crossover in the Anthem amv 60 at for my mk15hp's... 50hz

My powered towers differ from DT's because they have true subwoofers and have the ability to be adjusted with both, a crossover and level controls.
Not just an amp and woofer in a box with a volume knob like DT gives you.

Like I said earlier I asked a question and was given an answer of 120hz..
I'm good with that and I realize that that answer was given from a music perspective.

I surely don't want to fight with anyone and don't mean any disrespect in any way.. I think I'm just running my setup a lot differently with its 6 towers/built in true subwoofers and stand alone subs then the normal guy with towers and satellite surrounds crossed over to a sub.

Pardon my long response.
That's cool, man. Enjoy your setup. Nobody is fighting lol not sure where you got that from. Hopefully you find what you're looking for.

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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
I can't help but to think this is going nowhere. To the best of my knowledge you have just contradicted yourself with this.

Even the advice you gave me earlier (that I didn't ask for) never mentioned anything regarding lower then 80hz.



Furthermore I already stated earlier what I set the crossover in the Anthem amv 60 at for my mk15hp's... 50hz



My powered towers differ from DT's because they have true subwoofers and have the ability to be adjusted with both, a crossover and level controls.

Not just an amp and woofer in a box with a volume knob like DT gives you.



Like I said earlier I asked a question and was given an answer of 120hz..

I'm good with that and I realize that that answer was given from a music perspective.



I surely don't want to fight with anyone and don't mean any disrespect in any way.. I think I'm just running my setup a lot differently with its 6 towers/built in true subwoofers and stand alone subs then the normal guy with towers and satellite surrounds crossed over to a sub.



Pardon my long response.


I’m curious to know how your powered towers differ from DT? What towers do you have? How can a “sub” in one tower be much different than another?


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post #39385 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
I can't help but to think this is going nowhere. To the best of my knowledge you have just contradicted yourself with this.
Even the advice you gave me earlier (that I didn't ask for) never mentioned anything regarding lower then 80hz.

Furthermore I already stated earlier what I set the crossover in the Anthem amv 60 at for my mk15hp's... 50hz

My powered towers differ from DT's because they have true subwoofers and have the ability to be adjusted with both, a crossover and level controls.
Not just an amp and woofer in a box with a volume knob like DT gives you.

Like I said earlier I asked a question and was given an answer of 120hz..
I'm good with that and I realize that that answer was given from a music perspective.

I surely don't want to fight with anyone and don't mean any disrespect in any way.. I think I'm just running my setup a lot differently with its 6 towers/built in true subwoofers and stand alone subs then the normal guy with towers and satellite surrounds crossed over to a sub.

Pardon my long response.
The only thing that get's me with the explanation I got for my powered towers is if they aren't "subwoofers" built in, then why supply an LFE port and claim they do sub 30hz which put's them in subwoofer category,and couple passive radiators to signify porting, it all points to a separate subwoofer built into a tower.

Which is why most I have heard from with the same towers or similar say that they sound better ran in LFE set to small. But the designer of the speakers advises to run them full range? It's like he created a riddle for us to solve LOL while relying on our own listening tastes as to the way we set them up, neither being the wrong way......

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post #39386 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by malmit View Post
I'm building a 20' x 23' ft home theater room with a fixed projection screen with 7.1 system. Any recommendations for Def Tech speakers? My previous 5.1 home theater room I bought the entire Def Tech 1000 series for it (ProCenter 1000, 4 ProMonitor 1000, and a ProSub 1000) and the sound was good but I want better sound this time and was considering Mythos Gems. Are the Mythos Gems or Mythos Gem XLs better than the Promonitor 1000s? Are the Mythos Gems good for front speakers? I do not want floor standing front speakers and would like every speaker wall mounted. My budget is $2000-$3000. I'm open to recommendations for the entire set up.

I have the Mythos Gem XL for my side surrounds and really like them. I don't think I'd go out of my way to use them as front speakers though. I would suggest the Studio Monitor 65 for your fronts. You could do six of them and a center speaker (or another 65) for right around $3,000. Go outside of Def. Tech for your sub.


Edit: Your not doing ATMOS??? If not, you may really want to reconsider.

I reject your reality and substitute my own.


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post #39387 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
Like I said earlier I asked a question and was given an answer of 120hz..
I'm good with that and I realize that that answer was given from a music perspective.
For clarity sake, the 120htz crossover setting relates to the low pass filter specifically for the LFE channel which has nothing to do with two channel music applications. That is strictly just for the .1 programming with movies. For two channel music I'm crossed at 80htz.
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post #39388 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by markyg66 View Post
The only thing that get's me with the explanation I got for my powered towers is if they aren't "subwoofers" built in, then why supply an LFE port and claim they do sub 30hz which put's them in subwoofer category,and couple passive radiators to signify porting, it all points to a separate subwoofer built into a tower.

Which is why most I have heard from with the same towers or similar say that they sound better ran in LFE set to small. But the designer of the speakers advises to run them full range? It's like he created a riddle for us to solve LOL while relying on our own listening tastes as to the way we set them up, neither being the wrong way......
There is a big divide between engineering (physics) and marketing.


The whole point of using a stand alone subwoofer is as much about placement flexibility in any given room as it is about frequency range. It does not matter if a speaker manufacturer's marketing department calls powered woofers "subwoofers" or not. Nor does it matter if a tower has connection post for LFE content or any other other controls or settings built in. This is because of the generally accepted fact that frequencies below 80htz (some would argue 120htz) are omnidirectional. Meaning a person of normal hearing abilities can not determine the direction of frequencies below these levels. This affords the flexibility to place the driver where it will provide the most even response in its room. This is important because any indoor room will be the primary governor of the quality of the LF signals.


Towers need to be placed for proper imaging of the higher frequencies which are directional. Most of the time this will not be the best placement of the LF drivers for the best in room response. It does not matter how big the driver or amp is or whether or not the marketing department calls them "subwoofers" or claims that a buyer wont need a stand alone subwoofer because the "subs are built in". That is all just marketing propaganda designed to sell more speakers.


In the case of WOKNROX, he has 6! towers that are capable of playing down to 22htz -3bd. Which means they probably can go below 20 and still produce beneficial sound. Certainly suitable for most LFE content and almost all music. And while I'm sure he has positioned them for optimal imaging and sound stage, the fact that they are not optimally placed for low frequencies is probably not a problem when he has 6 of them in the room to even out the response.


Of course there is the other issue of overlapping frequencies with dissimilar drivers of varying abilities, but that is a whole other can of worms.

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post #39389 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by markyg66 View Post
The only thing that get's me with the explanation I got for my powered towers is if they aren't "subwoofers" built in, then why supply an LFE port and claim they do sub 30hz which put's them in subwoofer category,and couple passive radiators to signify porting, it all points to a separate subwoofer built into a tower.

Which is why most I have heard from with the same towers or similar say that they sound better ran in LFE set to small. But the designer of the speakers advises to run them full range? It's like he created a riddle for us to solve LOL while relying on our own listening tastes as to the way we set them up, neither being the wrong way......
I shouldn't of used the term for DT's "not true subs" because they are, it's just that to get full control over them you have to connect them to the sub output on your AVR/AVprocessor.

There no marketing or sales pitch to this.

I also want to say that I'm a huge fan of DT speakers. I own a number of them and have owned both the bp7000sc and the bp3000's.
I thought I sold both of those but a few weeks ago I sold some gear to a fellow avs'er and while looking for some brackets I came across the bp3000's still in their boxes... lol I thought I sold this year's ago... sorry for the ramble.

One thing that I noticed as you also have is that in every article I have ever read on these speakers it always says to run them full-range... this is also how I used them as well.
But definitely a good idea to try different settings and see what works best for you and your room.
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post #39390 of 40718 Old 04-30-2018, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
There is a big divide between engineering (physics) and marketing.


The whole point of using a stand alone subwoofer is as much about placement flexibility in any given room as it is about frequency range. It does not matter if a speaker manufacturer's marketing department calls powered woofers "subwoofers" or not. Nor does it matter if a tower has connection post for LFE content or any other other controls or settings built in. This is because of the generally accepted fact that frequencies below 80htz (some would argue 120htz) are omnidirectional. Meaning a person of normal hearing abilities can not determine the direction of frequencies below these levels. This affords the flexibility to place the driver where it will provide the most even response in its room. This is important because any indoor room will be the primary governor of the quality of the LF signals.


Towers need to be placed for proper imaging of the higher frequencies which are directional. Most of the time this will not be the best placement of the LF drivers for the best in room response. It does not matter how big the driver or amp is or whether or not the marketing department calls them "subwoofers" or claims that a buyer wont need a stand alone subwoofer because the "subs are built in". That is all just marketing propaganda designed to sell more speakers.


In the case of WOKNROX, he has 6! towers that are capable of playing down to 22htz -3bd. Which means they probably can go below 20 and still produce beneficial sound. Certainly suitable for most LFE content and almost all music. And while I'm sure he has positioned them for optimal imaging and sound stage, the fact that they are not optimally placed for low frequencies is probably not a problem when he has 6 of them in the room to even out the response.


Of course there is the other issue of overlapping frequencies with dissimilar drivers of varying abilities, but that is a whole other can of worms.
While I agree with you that low frequencies can become "non-directional" I don't feel that it happened at 80hz and most definitely not any higher then that. For me and in my dedicated theater I can detect it at around 50hz.

Now with that said if you are connecting all your sud/s both in your towers and stand alone sub/s to your AVR/AV processor sub output/s then you have just turned them all into mono subs and have lost sonic steer in the low end.
It doesn't matter what you cross them over at...

This may not matter to you but to me it does and this is why I like the control I have over the low end on all 6 of the OM-5's individually without having to hook them to a sub output and loosing the steering.

Now for the placement part. I have the front and back surround's in the optimum spots for both imaging and sub sonic's. The sides I had to move forward a bit to allow the HSU's to have that sweet spot but to be honest it didn't hurt much do to the adjustability of the speakers.

No marketing gimmicks..

This gives me excellent impactful full-range steering all the way around the room.

You don't have to agree with me and I'm sure you probably don't but, I have run my theater for many years setup like the good book and yourself have said to do. Once I tried full-range all the way around the room I was hooked.
I think there's a reason why manufacturers of these kind of speakers suggest you to run them this way.

JMO-tho..

Last edited by WOKNROX; 05-01-2018 at 04:48 AM.
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