Definitive Owners Thread - Page 1344 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #40291 of 40675 Old 02-26-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jameshtx View Post
How do I hook up the wires and cables for your recommended alternative option?

While this option could work well, it will take great care and time and will probably require REW and a separate DSP device to get it all integrated properly.


More woofers carelessly introduced into any given indoor space will create additional nulls and peaks. You wont notice them all on every track however.

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post #40292 of 40675 Old 02-26-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jameshtx View Post
How do I hook up the wires and cables for your recommended alternative option?
You would run subwoofer cables from the LFE outs of your AVR to the LFE ins on your BP9080s and PB2000s. If you don't have enough subwoofer outputs on your AVR you could use y-splitters to connect the 4 "subs" to 2 outputs.

Like derekmoore said though you'd want to do some work to level match them and such to optimize things. DefTech generally recommends just hooking up the speakers without using the LFE inputs FWIW. If everything sounds good with the simplest setup I'd probably just stick with that unless you really want to play around with everything or if you feel like your bass is lacking.

One other option: many AVRs have a "double bass" setting that lets you send LFE to the large speakers and the sub. However, most people I've chatted with have recommended against this setting as the bass won't be properly calibrated using this feature. Anyway you can switch it on just for fun to see how you like it.

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post #40293 of 40675 Old 02-28-2019, 06:34 PM
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Does anyone know if there is a successor to the BP9000 series planned this year? Getting ready to buy a system but would hate for a new one to come right after.
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post #40294 of 40675 Old 03-01-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tdx View Post
Does anyone know if there is a successor to the BP9000 series planned this year? Getting ready to buy a system but would hate for a new one to come right after.
I don't have any inside info but based on some quick googling (might not be totally accurate) it looks like the original BP10 was released in 1991, the 2000 series was released around 1996, the 3000 series in 2002, the 7000 series in 2007, the 8000 series in 2011, and the 9000 series in 2016. So it looks like they are on a roughly 5 year release cycle so I'd expect a successor sometime in 2021 (could be sooner or later than that, I'm just speculating). If I had to guess though I'd say they probably won't release a successor this year as they seem to always wait at least 4 years.

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post #40295 of 40675 Old 03-01-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by godfatherip View Post
I don't have any inside info but based on some quick googling (might not be totally accurate) it looks like the original BP10 was released in 1991, the 2000 series was released around 1996, the 3000 series in 2002, the 7000 series in 2007, the 8000 series in 2011, and the 9000 series in 2016. So it looks like they are on a roughly 5 year release cycle so I'd expect a successor sometime in 2021 (could be sooner or later than that, I'm just speculating). If I had to guess though I'd say they probably won't release a successor this year as they seem to always wait at least 4 years.
Ok thanks a lot. So the BP9000 is their "best/flagship" line for HT right now?
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post #40296 of 40675 Old 03-01-2019, 01:16 PM
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Haha. Most with towers with integrated subs here probably run dedicated subs. That being said. I currently don’t (wife says NO). Lol we are very happy with the sound. I can always go for more but half of me doesn’t want to clutter our room.
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Bass shakers instead??
Shakers are a great solution. Totally stealth and awesome effects once you have them set up properly. Inexpensive too if you use Aura Pro and a spare amp. I have Def Tech towers with 12" subs and, without dedicated subs, the Def Techs are not enough for effects to really hit -- but shakers in combination with Def Tech's built-in subs is, in some ways, better than Def Techs in combination with dedicated subs. I have dedicated subs in addition to shakers, but the shakers fill the gap very well even with dedicated subs turned off.

Of course, there are WAF-friendly subs if you want to dive into DIY (see 18" side table sub in my avatar).


.
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post #40297 of 40675 Old 03-02-2019, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by pjp View Post

Of course, there are WAF-friendly subs if you want to dive into DIY (see 18" side table sub in my avatar).


.
Woah! No wifey to worry about here, but I love those subs Excellent job.

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post #40298 of 40675 Old 03-02-2019, 08:04 AM
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What adjustments would you make to the way Audyssey set this up? Mainly for Movies. I listen around -20 to -30 db.

CS8080HD center, Small 40 hz, LFE connected to center pre out.
BP8060ST Towers, Small 40 hz, LFE to towers using Y splitter.
SM55 Bookshelf surround, small 40 hz.
Ceiling Speakers, small 80 hz.
Single SVS PB2000, corner loaded, LFE only 120 HZ

Denon X3200, Reference, 0 offset, Dynamic EQ On, Dynamic Volume off.

It sounds great with these settings. I am always looking to improve.
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post #40299 of 40675 Old 03-02-2019, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam8060 View Post
What adjustments would you make to the way Audyssey set this up? Mainly for Movies. I listen around -20 to -30 db.

CS8080HD center, Small 40 hz, LFE connected to center pre out.
BP8060ST Towers, Small 40 hz, LFE to towers using Y splitter.
SM55 Bookshelf surround, small 40 hz.
Ceiling Speakers, small 80 hz.
Single SVS PB2000, corner loaded, LFE only 120 HZ

Denon X3200, Reference, 0 offset, Dynamic EQ On, Dynamic Volume off.

It sounds great with these settings. I am always looking to improve.
I'd personally disconnect the LFE from your center channel, as that sub isn't intended to get full LFE signal and your PB2000 is way more capable, and perhaps bump the SM55's crossover up just a bit but there's really no way to answer this without doing extensive readings in your room. If you're happy with the sound and the speakers aren't stressed then that's all that really matters.
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post #40300 of 40675 Old 03-05-2019, 12:45 AM
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Hey guys, is this website reliable?

https://nationwidestereo.com
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post #40301 of 40675 Old 03-05-2019, 02:58 PM
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Hey guys, is this website reliable?

https://nationwidestereo.com
They are NOT listed as a Def Tech authorized online dealer so i would not buy from them.

(Living Room) Sony XBR-65X900E 4K TV, Sony UBP-X800 4K BD player, Pioneer SC-LX502, Def Tech BP9020's, A90 atmos, CS-9040 C and Di 5.5R surrounds

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post #40302 of 40675 Old 03-06-2019, 05:19 AM
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They are NOT listed as a Def Tech authorized online dealer so i would not buy from them.

I'm looking at the CS9080 center channel, shipping it to my uncle's place who is flying to India next week. Pricing over here is double than the standard pricing. Even looking at warranty, I do not think DefTech would honor their warranty India when purchased in America.



So I'm debating on the purchase.
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post #40303 of 40675 Old 03-07-2019, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam8060 View Post
What adjustments would you make to the way Audyssey set this up? Mainly for Movies. I listen around -20 to -30 db.

CS8080HD center, Small 40 hz, LFE connected to center pre out.
BP8060ST Towers, Small 40 hz, LFE to towers using Y splitter.
SM55 Bookshelf surround, small 40 hz.
Ceiling Speakers, small 80 hz.
Single SVS PB2000, corner loaded, LFE only 120 HZ

Denon X3200, Reference, 0 offset, Dynamic EQ On, Dynamic Volume off.

It sounds great with these settings. I am always looking to improve.
I don't think you should hook anything up to the LFE input of the center channel (certainly not the pre-out). It will still use the powered woofer without anything hooked into LFE and it should better control the blending between its woofer and midranges if it is just getting the one input.

You might also consider running the towers with nothing hooked up to the LFE (again the powered woofers will still be used), as that is the default recommendation of DT. The -3dB point of the 8060 towers is 39Hz according to S&V, which is why your AVR set that 40Hz crossover but with the LFE you are sort of ignoring the crossover and sending it those very low frequencies anyway. Maybe it isn't an issue in practice, but might be worth testing to see what sounds best.

The -3dB point of the SM55 is 44Hz according to S&V so I'd probably bump that crossover up to 50-60Hz.

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post #40304 of 40675 Old 03-07-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by godfatherip View Post
I don't think you should hook anything up to the LFE input of the center channel (certainly not the pre-out). It will still use the powered woofer without anything hooked into LFE and it should better control the blending between its woofer and midranges if it is just getting the one input.

You might also consider running the towers with nothing hooked up to the LFE (again the powered woofers will still be used), as that is the default recommendation of DT. The -3dB point of the 8060 towers is 39Hz according to S&V, which is why your AVR set that 40Hz crossover but with the LFE you are sort of ignoring the crossover and sending it those very low frequencies anyway. Maybe it isn't an issue in practice, but might be worth testing to see what sounds best.

The -3dB point of the SM55 is 44Hz according to S&V so I'd probably bump that crossover up to 50-60Hz.
A common recommendation is to crossover your speakers at one whole octave above their f3 point. So if your speakers roll off -3db at 39hts, crossing over at 80htz would be the sweet spot. If they roll off -3db around 50htz, then crossing over at 100htz would be recommended. YMMV of course.

5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5
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post #40305 of 40675 Old 03-07-2019, 01:48 PM
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A common recommendation is to crossover your speakers at one whole octave above their f3 point. So if your speakers roll off -3db at 39hts, crossing over at 80htz would be the sweet spot. If they roll off -3db around 50htz, then crossing over at 100htz would be recommended. YMMV of course.
That's a good point, I should have recommended a higher crossover. I just crossover all of my speakers at 80Hz and let the sub do the low frequency work.
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post #40306 of 40675 Old 03-07-2019, 09:35 PM
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What do you guys think about a bridged Crown XLS 1002 for a CLR 2500? Too much? Just Right?
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post #40307 of 40675 Old 03-08-2019, 03:25 AM
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What do you guys think about a bridged Crown XLS 1002 for a CLR 2500? Too much? Just Right?
It's only going to send as much power as needed based on your listening volume, so you can give it a shot if you like. That's a pretty efficient speaker though so with the built-in subwoofer already having its own amp I'm not sure you much benefit you'll really see.
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post #40308 of 40675 Old 03-09-2019, 08:05 AM
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Wanted to get the opinion of some of the folks on here who have or have had the older Super Towers. I just picked up a pair of bp2000tl’s to replace my bp30’s as fronts. Currently I have an Emotiva 2 ch amp rated at 150 watts per channel powering them. They sound pretty great, but when I auditioned them the guy was using a more powerful amp and it sounded noticeably better then in my setup. I was planning on getting a new amp or 2 anyway. Not necessarily looking so much for brand recommendations(although welcome), but what power recommendations make these towers sing the best?
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post #40309 of 40675 Old 03-09-2019, 03:44 PM
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My sub in one of my towers isn't coming on anymore, and the little light in the back keeps blinking blue and red/pink...

What does that mean? I tried unplugging the power chord for a few minutes and it still does it after powering it back on.

Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series
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post #40310 of 40675 Old 03-09-2019, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Giants0691 View Post
Wanted to get the opinion of some of the folks on here who have or have had the older Super Towers. I just picked up a pair of bp2000tl’s to replace my bp30’s as fronts. Currently I have an Emotiva 2 ch amp rated at 150 watts per channel powering them. They sound pretty great, but when I auditioned them the guy was using a more powerful amp and it sounded noticeably better then in my setup. I was planning on getting a new amp or 2 anyway. Not necessarily looking so much for brand recommendations(although welcome), but what power recommendations make these towers sing the best?
Could be a lot of things making them sound better to your ears; different EQ, different quality of source material, better room acoustics, better placement within the room. What about the sound did you like?
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post #40311 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 06:24 AM
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Could be a lot of things making them sound better to your ears; different EQ, different quality of source material, better room acoustics, better placement within the room. What about the sound did you like?
The room may have had something to do with it as it was less closed off then my room. They just seemed to sound a little more detailed and less muddy in the low end.

I’m using a couple of Emotiva amps to power my seven lower channels rated at 150 and 125 watts respectively. Powering my Atmos speakers and doing all the processing for 7.1.4 is a Denon AVR-X4500H. I eventually want to get a processor(probably Emotiva RMC-2) to get to 9.6. My plan is to get an 7 channel amp to handle the center, wides, sides, rears and fronts for now(rated at 200 watts per channel). I’m considering getting a 2 channel amp to power the 2000tl’s rated at 550 watts for when I get the new processor. I think the 2000tl’s are rated at 20-500 watts. My question is whether that big of an amp is too big and should I just get a smaller one. I certainly don’t want to blow the speakers.
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post #40312 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 06:32 AM
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The room may have had something to do with it as it was less closed off then my room. They just seemed to sound a little more detailed and less muddy in the low end.

I’m using a couple of Emotiva amps to power my seven lower channels rated at 150 and 125 watts respectively. Powering my Atmos speakers and doing all the processing for 7.1.4 is a Denon AVR-X4500H. I eventually want to get a processor(probably Emotiva RMC-2) to get to 9.6. My plan is to get an 7 channel amp to handle the center, wides, sides, rears and fronts for now(rated at 200 watts per channel). I’m considering getting a 2 channel amp to power the 2000tl’s rated at 550 watts for when I get the new processor. I think the 2000tl’s are rated at 20-500 watts. My question is whether that big of an amp is too big and should I just get a smaller one. I certainly don’t want to blow the speakers.
If it's mainly low-end I'd say there's a good chance it's a room issue and another amp won't make any difference, possibly even making things worse. How do you currently have the signals running and are you using any room correction/EQ? Any other subs in your system?
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post #40313 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 06:51 AM
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If it's mainly low-end I'd say there's a good chance it's a room issue and another amp won't make any difference, possibly even making things worse. How do you currently have the signals running and are you using any room correction/EQ? Any other subs in your system?
Just speaker wire connected with a banana plug to the amp and rca from the amp to the receiver. I have a HSU VTF-15H mk2 sub and I’m running Audyssey on the Denon 4500h.

Some of this could be that I’m still learning the new receiver. I just got the Denon a week ago and only a couple days before the speakers. I previously had a Pioneer SC-95 that I really liked sound wise, but the ARC never worked properly. Plus no Dolby Vision and couldn’t set crossovers individually. So I jumped ship to Denon. Maybe I just need to keep tweaking things on the receiver.
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post #40314 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 12:01 PM
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Hi everyone,

I'm about to install a my first DT system for HT with two BP9080s for fronts and CS9080 center. Will be driven by a Yamaha 9.2 receiver.

What I'm trying to figure out is what the best option is for the surrounds in my space. I have a smallish room, 8ft deep, 15ft wide with an open space on the left, 7ft high flat ceilings and a couch up against the wall.

Given the limitations of my room I'm thinking of just adding a pair of SR9040s or 9080s on the back wall above my couch and calling it a day.

Other options would be to add a pair of BP9020s with two more A90s toppers on the side of the couch for better surround effects.

Or, use 4 SR9040s, two above my couch and two on the top sides of my room (up the ceiling and to the sides of my listening position) to do a pseudo 5.4 or 7.2.

What do you guys think? What would give me the best, most enveloping surround sound effect given my space limitations?

Thanks!
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post #40315 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 02:30 PM
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Hi everyone,



I'm about to install a my first DT system for HT with two BP9080s for fronts and CS9080 center. Will be driven by a Yamaha 9.2 receiver.



What I'm trying to figure out is what the best option is for the surrounds in my space. I have a smallish room, 8ft deep, 15ft wide with an open space on the left, 7ft high flat ceilings and a couch up against the wall.



Given the limitations of my room I'm thinking of just adding a pair of SR9040s or 9080s on the back wall above my couch and calling it a day.



Other options would be to add a pair of BP9020s with two more A90s toppers on the side of the couch for better surround effects.



Or, use 4 SR9040s, two above my couch and two on the top sides of my room (up the ceiling and to the sides of my listening position) to do a pseudo 5.4 or 7.2.



What do you guys think? What would give me the best, most enveloping surround sound effect given my space limitations?



Thanks!
If you plan on using the A90 toppers in the front, you might want to go for the bp9020s for the surrounds so you can use the toppers there too in a 5.1.4 configuration. Assuming you don't want to go to in-ceiling, but a flat ceiling with 7' height should work decently good for the modules.

I had sr9040s for my surrounds and liked they way they sounded, clear and detailed. When I moved to bigger house with more open living room, I wanted a little more fuller sound so I went with the sr9080s. Their -3dB point was 80hz compared to 110 of the sr9040s. Most movies don't author content that low in surround channels anyway, but as Atmos gets more prominent it seems that the newer sound mixes do utilize more sound in the surrounds, so that's something to consider for future proofing and go for the bigger sr9080s.

Of course, that solves it if you go with the bp9020s.

Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series
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post #40316 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 03:56 PM
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My sub in one of my towers isn't coming on anymore, and the little light in the back keeps blinking blue and red/pink...

What does that mean? I tried unplugging the power chord for a few minutes and it still does it after powering it back on.
I’d give dt a call.
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post #40317 of 40675 Old 03-10-2019, 05:42 PM
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If you plan on using the A90 toppers in the front, you might want to go for the bp9020s for the surrounds so you can use the toppers there too in a 5.1.4 configuration. Assuming you don't want to go to in-ceiling, but a flat ceiling with 7' height should work decently good for the modules.

I had sr9040s for my surrounds and liked they way they sounded, clear and detailed. When I moved to bigger house with more open living room, I wanted a little more fuller sound so I went with the sr9080s. Their -3dB point was 80hz compared to 110 of the sr9040s. Most movies don't author content that low in surround channels anyway, but as Atmos gets more prominent it seems that the newer sound mixes do utilize more sound in the surrounds, so that's something to consider for future proofing and go for the bigger sr9080s.

Of course, that solves it if you go with the bp9020s.
Thanks for the recommendation I'll check the SR9080s. One thing that has me hesitating about the BP9020s next to my couch is the fact that I'm up against the wall. So if use towers with atmos toppers they would be right next to me pointing at the ceiling in front of me (i would be sitting right between the back towers basically). Not sure if room compensation on the AVR could fix that, even if I angle them towards my seating position...
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post #40318 of 40675 Old 03-11-2019, 08:19 AM
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Thanks for the recommendation I'll check the SR9080s. One thing that has me hesitating about the BP9020s next to my couch is the fact that I'm up against the wall. So if use towers with atmos toppers they would be right next to me pointing at the ceiling in front of me (i would be sitting right between the back towers basically). Not sure if room compensation on the AVR could fix that, even if I angle them towards my seating position...
If the rear speakers are too close to your seating position then I doubt the bounce would work very well because it will bounce past you as you point out. I have SR9080s for my surrounds in a relatively small room with couches pushed up against the wall and I think they do a great job, I'd definitely recommend checking them out.
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post #40319 of 40675 Old 03-11-2019, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by godfatherip View Post
If the rear speakers are too close to your seating position then I doubt the bounce would work very well because it will bounce past you as you point out. I have SR9080s for my surrounds in a relatively small room with couches pushed up against the wall and I think they do a great job, I'd definitely recommend checking them out.
I think you're right I'll keep it simple. If I go with the SR9040s or 9080s on the wall behind my couch, where should I mount them fro maximum surround effect?

Thanks
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post #40320 of 40675 Old 03-11-2019, 08:54 PM
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What adjustments would you make to the way Audyssey set this up? Mainly for Movies. I listen around -20 to -30 db.

CS8080HD center, Small 40 hz, LFE connected to center pre out.
BP8060ST Towers, Small 40 hz, LFE to towers using Y splitter.
SM55 Bookshelf surround, small 40 hz.
Ceiling Speakers, small 80 hz.
Single SVS PB2000, corner loaded, LFE only 120 HZ

Denon X3200, Reference, 0 offset, Dynamic EQ On, Dynamic Volume off.

It sounds great with these settings. I am always looking to improve.
What is the thinking for Dynamic EQ on?

I would not connect the LFE to any of the front sound stage. I would probably cross over at 60 or 80 HZ.

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