Definitive Owners Thread - Page 1359 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #40741 of 40785 Old 11-08-2019, 12:42 PM
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^ About a year ago one of the other AVS members posted a list of the top performing DT center speakers. I think it was @ALtlOff IIRC. I'll try to find it and give proper credit where it's due.


Since you have such a tight space your center is jammed into, I think you'd be a good candidate for one of DT's older passive centers. The CLR 2000 is the biggest/best with 2x 6.5" drivers but might be too big for your space. Not that alternatives couldn't be considered (like on top of your council under the TV). The next best after that is the CLR 2002. I recently downgraded from the CLR 2000 to the 2002, for WAF reasons, and noticed little no zero drop off in performance. If I were a movie first kind of guy I probably would notice some drop off but I have not even recalibrated it yet. So if the CLR2002 fits in your designated space, I'd strongly consider seeking one out on the used market.


If you can consider other placement options, the 2000 might be the ticket for you. I sold mine to AVS member @Telperion who commented on his impressions just a few post back.


Of course upgrading the center/sub will not improve your 2 channel experience if you are not happy with that on its own merits. Please report back your findings after experimenting.


When the time comes to upgrade you sub, avoid Def Tech and seek advice on the Subwoofer threads. Very good help over there.
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5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5

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post #40742 of 40785 Old 11-08-2019, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
I'm afraid I'm going to join the "that guy" club as well...

@emelioestaves, here's a list of bookshelf speakers to consider, starting after the PowerMonitor line and disregarding the ProCinema "package" offerings:
(This is simply "my" personal ranking)
Centers:
(Not counting exact matching your Fronts)
1. CLR3000
2. CLR2000
3. CLR2500
4. CLR2002
5. CS8080
6. ProCenter 2000 / C-2
7. CLR2300
8. CLR
9. CS8060
10. ProCenter 1000 / C-2 Jr.
11. C-1
12. CS8040
13. C-1Jr
Fronts and Surrounds:
1. CLR3000
2. CLR2000
3. SM65
4. SM450
5. CLR2002
6. SM55
7. SM350
8. SM45
9. ProMonitor 1000
10. ProCinema 100
11. ProMonitor 800
12. ProCinema 80
13. ProMonitor 600
14. ProCinema 60
Here it is.


It was indeed @ALtlOff . Where are you?


D

5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5
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post #40743 of 40785 Old 11-17-2019, 03:47 PM
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BP 9060 Sub Amp Failure

I've searched this thread and found some posts regarding built-in sub and/or sub amp failure, but no one seems to have had the unusual experience I've had.

I have a pair of BP9060s that I purchased only 2 months ago (on sale at Crutchfield), and over the last few days, the built-in subs and/or the internal sub amps on both towers have failed. I get sound only from the mids and tweeters; nothing at all from the low end. ( I haven't subjected these to any high volume abuse.)

However the "D" logo on the front base of both speakers is on; the power light on the back of the speakers is also on, and blue; the bass control knob has no effect in any position.

Because of this, I went through every possible scenario of what else could be wrong: AC power connections, other cable problems (I use the full range speaker connection only, not the LFE input), incorrect settings in my AVR (Marantz SR7012), etc., and everything checked out.

I finally narrowed it down to the 9060 subs or amps themselves by connecting my center channel speaker (a CS9080) to first the front left speaker and power cables, and then the front right. In both cases, the center channel worked fine, putting out plenty of bass.

I talked with Crutchfield tech support, and they were puzzled, but after suggesting a few other things I might try, they said to call back tomorrow, and they would set up a return/exchange.

I wonder if anyone else has experienced this with these speakers, or other similar models? Previously I owned a pair of BP2000s, purchased in 1995. They performed perfectly for 24 years. Hopefully the quality control on these has not gone down.

I am very pleased with Crutchfield's return policy, though, and I'm glad I purchased these new towers from them.

"I will drag you, kicking and screaming if I have to, into the modern world!" -- Peter the Great
Samsung Q9FN(65"), Marantz SR-7012, Emotiva XPA-3 Gen 3, Pioneer LX-500, Def Tech BP9060,
CS9080, SR9080, 6.5R(4), SVS PB-4000(2), Panamax M5300(2).
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post #40744 of 40785 Old 11-17-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike25690 View Post
I have a pair of BP9060s that I purchased only 2 months ago (on sale at Crutchfield), and over the last few days, the built-in subs and/or the internal sub amps on both towers have failed.

...

Previously I owned a pair of BP2000s, purchased in 1995. They performed perfectly for 24 years. Hopefully the quality control on these has not gone down.
The BP2000, CLR2000, BPX, BPZ, and BPZ/A from the 90s are the pinnacle of Definitive Technology sonic performance and manufacturing quality. Everything Definitive Technology has made since then, while still good, is not as good as the products from that era. Why did you replace your BP2000s? That seems like a step down.

Great Room: Yamaha RX-A3070, Epson 6050UB, Stewart Greyhawk 120", LG C8 65", DISH H3, Panasonic UB820, ATV4k, FTV4k, 7.2.8: Definitive Tech BP2000, CLR2000, Di 5.5BPS, UIW BPZ/A, Di 8R, and M&K MX-100 / MX-125. Master Bedroom: Yamaha RX-A3010, LG C8 55", DISH 4k Joey, FTV4k, 7.1.2: DT RCS II, RSS II, IW Sub Ref. Basement: Yamaha RX-A3040, Panasonic PT-AE8000U, Panasonic P65VT50, 6.1: DT BP2000, CLR2000, Di 6.5R
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post #40745 of 40785 Old 11-17-2019, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jch2 View Post
The BP2000, CLR2000, BPX, BPZ, and BPZ/A from the 90s are the pinnacle of Definitive Technology sonic performance and manufacturing quality. Everything Definitive Technology has made since then, while still good, is not as good as the products from that era. Why did you replace your BP2000s? That seems like a step down.

The new 9060s are certainly a step down in size and weight, but they sounded fantastic when they were working. And since my HT setup includes two large SVS PB-4000s, I didn't need anything larger for front L-R speakers. I have been upgrading everything a piece at a time, and I wasn't sure how long the BP-2000s would hold up, considering their age.

"I will drag you, kicking and screaming if I have to, into the modern world!" -- Peter the Great
Samsung Q9FN(65"), Marantz SR-7012, Emotiva XPA-3 Gen 3, Pioneer LX-500, Def Tech BP9060,
CS9080, SR9080, 6.5R(4), SVS PB-4000(2), Panamax M5300(2).
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post #40746 of 40785 Old 11-17-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike25690 View Post
The new 9060s are certainly a step down in size and weight, but they sounded fantastic when they were working. And since my HT setup includes two large SVS PB-4000s, I didn't need anything larger for front L-R speakers. I have been upgrading everything a piece at a time, and I wasn't sure how long the BP-2000s would hold up, considering their age.
They do sound fantastic still (exact same sonic signature) an they also measure exceptionally well, and all professional reviews say the same thing. There's just the typical "everything was better" rose colored memory thinking that goes on with EVERYTHING. You hear the same thing in car forums, video games, TVs, music, rock bands, playgrounds, Sports...just comes with the territory.
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post #40747 of 40785 Old 11-18-2019, 07:04 AM
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Hello, I'm looking for some advice. I'm planning to upgrade my speakers and have complied a short list. My room is 21'x14' with high ceiling, tile floor (with a rug), lots of windows and open to a hallway. All that to say, my room has lots of reflections and is bright with echos. I'm working on taming the reflections in the room, but know that some of it is-what-it-is. I'll be driving the speakers with an Arcam AVR850 using Dirac room correction in a 5.1.2 config. The sub is an SVS SB-16 Ultra and the Atmos are an unidentified in-ceiling brand. Currently I have Definitive Mythos ST in the front, CS-8080 for center channel and Mythos Ones for surrounds.

Short List (in order of most to least expensive):
Option 1 - Revel Performa BE F226BE, Performa3 C208 center and ? surrounds
Option 2 - KEF R11, RC2 center and ? for surrounds
Option 3 - KEF R7, RC2 center and ? for surrounds
Option 4 - Definitive Mythos ST-L, CS-9080 center with either the ST as surrounds or keep the Ones in surround duty or pickup some GemXLs

I lean towards a warmer or transparent sounding speaker. Bright speakers, while sounding great at first, are very hard and fatiguing on my ears (I'm talking to you B&W < Diamond series and SVS Ultras).

I've heard the KEF R11 and the Revel F226BE but under less than ideal circumstances. I like them both but didn't get to spend much time with them. I'm very familiar with (and a fan of) DefTech having owned BP series and currently Mythos. If anyone prefers the ST-L, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts.

Sound quality+value+long term investment+aesthetics are my key decision factors.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
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post #40748 of 40785 Old 11-18-2019, 07:42 AM
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I have a new addition, and I am planning on putting a 75" screen between those two windows in the attached photo. Between the trim (not the sills) there's about 82" of space. The entire room at that end is about 15' across.

I have just enough space to hang a couple of old Definitive Tech Mythos 8 L/R on either side of the screen vertically just between the windows and the sides of the screen.

I also have a Mythos 10 I will use for the center. I've been using the Mythos 10 as a center channel continuously for about 11 years but the Mythos 8s have been packed in the original box stored in conditioned space for about 9 years.

In my current space I am actually using 11 year old DefTech Mythos STS for the L/R speakers. They have a powered subwoofer though the amplifiers have problems and thus I don't use them for that any more.

The L/R Mythos 8 speakers will fit I know it's not a lot of separation but I'm not sure if speaker placement on the outside of those windows will be better.

A few questions -
  1. Are the Mythos 8 / 10 for LCR going to be adequate, assuming I can fill in the low-end with a subwoofer?
  2. If I were to get a sub that would fill in the low-end, do you have any recommendations for one that isn't too physically or sonically big, and not too expensive? (I'm not going for ground-shaking performance, that will not pass WAF).
  3. Is the placement for the L/R front speakers going to be adequately spaced just inside the windows (so, about 70 inches apart, bookending the screen)?
  4. Would it be better to hang the speakers on the outside of the windows near the corners, maybe toed-in a bit? Should I be concerned about bad effects of sound bouncing off either wall if they are mounted within 12' or so of them?
  5. Another option would be to replace the Mythos STS amplifiers and not get a subwoofer, and place the towers near the corners of the room, but those STS have pretty low WAF; however, if I replaced the amplifiers then I could avoid getting a separate sub.

Thanks!
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post #40749 of 40785 Old 11-18-2019, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmoppa View Post

If I were to get a sub that would fill in the low-end, do you have any recommendations for one that isn't too physically or sonically big, and not too expensive? (I'm not going for ground-shaking performance, that will not pass WAF).

I would encourage you to repost this question in the subwoofer forums with a budget and room details.


Avoid DT subs.
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5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5
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post #40750 of 40785 Old 11-18-2019, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike25690 View Post
I've searched this thread and found some posts regarding built-in sub and/or sub amp failure, but no one seems to have had the unusual experience I've had.

I have a pair of BP9060s that I purchased only 2 months ago (on sale at Crutchfield), and over the last few days, the built-in subs and/or the internal sub amps on both towers have failed. I get sound only from the mids and tweeters; nothing at all from the low end. ( I haven't subjected these to any high volume abuse.)

However the "D" logo on the front base of both speakers is on; the power light on the back of the speakers is also on, and blue; the bass control knob has no effect in any position.

Because of this, I went through every possible scenario of what else could be wrong: AC power connections, other cable problems (I use the full range speaker connection only, not the LFE input), incorrect settings in my AVR (Marantz SR7012), etc., and everything checked out.

I finally narrowed it down to the 9060 subs or amps themselves by connecting my center channel speaker (a CS9080) to first the front left speaker and power cables, and then the front right. In both cases, the center channel worked fine, putting out plenty of bass.

I talked with Crutchfield tech support, and they were puzzled, but after suggesting a few other things I might try, they said to call back tomorrow, and they would set up a return/exchange.

I wonder if anyone else has experienced this with these speakers, or other similar models? Previously I owned a pair of BP2000s, purchased in 1995. They performed perfectly for 24 years. Hopefully the quality control on these has not gone down.

I am very pleased with Crutchfield's return policy, though, and I'm glad I purchased these new towers from them.

To make a long post short I have had the same issue. I contacted Definitive Tech thru emails, They sent out a new amp module. I replaced it which took about 20 minutes after removing the screws on the rear panel. The frustrating thing is the woofer has gone out again after about two weeks! I've not yet contacted Def Tech again. Not impressed with the quality.
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post #40751 of 40785 Old 11-20-2019, 11:48 PM
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Hi guys! I just finished my 7.1.4 set up with all DefTech speakers except for the 4 Atmos speakers all hooked up through the Marantz 8012. I am using an old McIntosh SL1 subwoofer but planning to replace it with a Rythmik F18 sealed sub.

I will post pictures of the new house and set up soon.
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post #40752 of 40785 Old 11-24-2019, 07:37 AM
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I'm finding it impossible to find a place to audition the DT6.5 LCR in-walls. Is the sound signature similar to the Di series or noticeably different? If different how?
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post #40753 of 40785 Old 11-26-2019, 11:10 PM
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Hi, I am having issue with my Prosub 800, i been using it for last 4-5 years with no problems but recently after i relocated my residence, after new set up it gets turn off by itself while full system is running. ( I use Onkyo TX-NR626 receiver with 5.1 Bose speakers system) any clues why this happening?
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post #40754 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hetfieldjames View Post
Still sounds good, deep bass?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Talking about jinxing my sub, my old McIntosh SL1 gave up on me and I am leaning towards the Rythmik F18. My BP9080x towers and their built in subs have been carrying the load as of right now.
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post #40755 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niranjan mesh View Post
Hi, I am having issue with my Prosub 800, i been using it for last 4-5 years with no problems but recently after i relocated my residence, after new set up it gets turn off by itself while full system is running. ( I use Onkyo TX-NR626 receiver with 5.1 Bose speakers system) any clues why this happening?

I'd call Def Tech support.
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post #40756 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 09:35 AM
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Unhappy UIW RLS ii

So, I had a weekend party, and I drove the speakers hard - but not near the limits.

The In-wall UIW RLS ii - Both fronts are rattling. I took out one and unscrewed the back, and sure enough one of the 6.5" driver cones separated from the voice coil. I still have to take out the other side down.

In addition, the overall sound output seems less than what it was before (That may be attributable to the damaged cone - I am not sure. The other driver is sounding fine, but it quite low in volume)

What's the optimum way to get both fronts fixed? Should I order the replacement 6.5" drivers and replace myself or send both of the units to be taken care by Def Tech? I am out of warranty on these.
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post #40757 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gps470 View Post
So, I had a weekend party, and I drove the speakers hard - but not near the limits.

The In-wall UIW RLS ii - Both fronts are rattling. I took out one and unscrewed the back, and sure enough one of the 6.5" driver cones separated from the voice coil. I still have to take out the other side down.

In addition, the overall sound output seems less than what it was before (That may be attributable to the damaged cone - I am not sure. The other driver is sounding fine, but it quite low in volume)

What's the optimum way to get both fronts fixed? Should I order the replacement 6.5" drivers and replace myself or send both of the units to be taken care by Def Tech? I am out of warranty on these.
If you feel comfortable opening them up, and diagnosing the extent of the damage, then just get the parts and do the repair yourself. Definitive Technology support is great at sending replacement parts! The prices on parts to consumers aren't great, so work with your dealer to get better part prices.

-J.C.

Great Room: Yamaha RX-A3070, Epson 6050UB, Stewart Greyhawk 120", LG C8 65", DISH H3, Panasonic UB820, ATV4k, FTV4k, 7.2.8: Definitive Tech BP2000, CLR2000, Di 5.5BPS, UIW BPZ/A, Di 8R, and M&K MX-100 / MX-125. Master Bedroom: Yamaha RX-A3010, LG C8 55", DISH 4k Joey, FTV4k, 7.1.2: DT RCS II, RSS II, IW Sub Ref. Basement: Yamaha RX-A3040, Panasonic PT-AE8000U, Panasonic P65VT50, 6.1: DT BP2000, CLR2000, Di 6.5R
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post #40758 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 09:44 AM
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^ Another situation where I would call DT support.


Even though you are out of warranty, they still might ship you a replacement driver(s) free of charge, or for a small fee, if they have them on hand.
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post #40759 of 40785 Old 11-27-2019, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
^ Another situation where I would call DT support.


Even though you are out of warranty, they still might ship you a replacement driver(s) free of charge, or for a small fee, if they have them on hand.
I'll second this. I have a Supercube Reference that had a loose lfe connection. The amp was still functional though. Called and they sent the amp assembly for a unbelievably low price.
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post #40760 of 40785 Old 12-03-2019, 02:52 PM
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Talking Help AVS noob here...

I recently inherited BP2002's from my folks and I have no experiences in connecting serious speakers. I purchased Onkyo TX NR686 to match these speakers since these receivers claim they support 4 ohm speakers. I searched the forum to give me an idea for best connection. I have no other speakers apart from these two speakers to connect to the receiver. From what I read, should I bi-wire the high and the mid to one channel and just do a RCA cable connection for the subs and not connect anything for the low's? (keep setting small/large??) or should I do separate connection for all high, mid and low to all separate channels? (settiing small/large) please help.
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post #40761 of 40785 Old 12-03-2019, 02:54 PM
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No need to "buy" wire.


So long as the connection bracket is there, just hook them up directly and let her rip.

5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5
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post #40762 of 40785 Old 12-03-2019, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
No need to "buy" wire.


So long as the connection bracket is there, just hook them up directly and let her rip.
There is no connection bracket. Should I connect all three ranges, high,mid,low using a wire and connect to one channel?
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post #40763 of 40785 Old 12-03-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minsin82 View Post
I recently inherited BP2002's from my folks and I have no experiences in connecting serious speakers. I purchased Onkyo TX NR686 to match these speakers since these receivers claim they support 4 ohm speakers. I searched the forum to give me an idea for best connection. I have no other speakers apart from these two speakers to connect to the receiver. From what I read, should I bi-wire the high and the mid to one channel and just do a RCA cable connection for the subs and not connect anything for the low's? (keep setting small/large??) or should I do separate connection for all high, mid and low to all separate channels? (settiing small/large) please help.
If the speakers are missing the bridge connection plates, just ask Definitive Technology support to send you some. They just sent me eight free of charge to replace ones I had lost.

In the meantime, you don't need to bi-wire them, just connect the AVR's output terminals with good 12 gauge speaker wire to either the mids or highs and jumper the other with short wires. Once you get your bridge plates from DT, you can replace the short jumper wires with the plates.

Don't connect the low speaker terminals (i.e. don't bridge them with a bridge plate or jumper wires). If you do, all you are doing is taking the signal (and thus the distortion) created by your AVR's amp and reducing it back to preamp levels and then reamplifying it getting a second round of distortion. Use the preamp input instead and connect each L/R speaker to their respective front channel's preamp outputs from the AVR (don't use the LFE output, only send that to your sub). The AVR can drive both the speaker level outputs into the mids/highs and also the preamp output into the BP2002's amp simultaneously. You may need to toggle the sensitivity switch and play with the subwoofer level and EQ knobs to get the bass to balance (it depends on the voltage of your AVR's preamp outputs). I have my switch set to high sensitivity, and both dials set to vertical (i.e. no gain and no boost) and that works best for me, but I use a Yamaha RX-A3070 AVR which might have different preamp output voltages than your Onkyo.

If you have great subs, then try the mains with a crossover (start at 80Hz and then work downwards to see what sounds best). I use 80Hz.

If you don't have a sub, or it isn't that great, try running the mains as full range. I did that for a long time when I had no subs (and also when I had bad subs). Once I got good ones, I crossed over my mains at 80Hz because the 15" driver and 300 watts RMS amp just could not keep up with the subs without distorting.

Also, after you are done and have everything sounding the way you like, post back what worked best for you and let us know.

Good luck!

-J.C.
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Great Room: Yamaha RX-A3070, Epson 6050UB, Stewart Greyhawk 120", LG C8 65", DISH H3, Panasonic UB820, ATV4k, FTV4k, 7.2.8: Definitive Tech BP2000, CLR2000, Di 5.5BPS, UIW BPZ/A, Di 8R, and M&K MX-100 / MX-125. Master Bedroom: Yamaha RX-A3010, LG C8 55", DISH 4k Joey, FTV4k, 7.1.2: DT RCS II, RSS II, IW Sub Ref. Basement: Yamaha RX-A3040, Panasonic PT-AE8000U, Panasonic P65VT50, 6.1: DT BP2000, CLR2000, Di 6.5R

Last edited by jch2; 12-04-2019 at 08:06 AM.
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post #40764 of 40785 Old 12-04-2019, 07:01 AM
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^ I didn't realize you had some DT BP2000's in your house. Would have been fun to give them a quick comparison.


EDIT: never mind, I mistook you for jch79.

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post #40765 of 40785 Old 12-08-2019, 05:02 PM
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I have a set of BP-8080ST that have ran great the past two and a half years. The issue I am having is the woofer on one of the speakers making a constant popping/crackling noise when a LFE signal is present. When I disconnect the power cable it goes away. I have tried a different subwoofer cable, different power cable, etc. It still does this when the speakers are powered and there is an active LFE signal present. When I unplug the speaker it is fine and the noise goes away, but obviously the subwoofer doesn't work in this configuration. I am thinking it may be a bad plate amp. I may swap it with the other tower when I get more time for troubleshooting. I would like to obtain or purchase one but it appears nobody sells these anymore. I sent Def Tech an email at [email protected]. I haven't heard anything back from them. Would anyone have a better contact address? I appreciate any assistance.

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post #40766 of 40785 Old 12-08-2019, 05:34 PM
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Hey guys been kinda not paying attention to the Def Tech world for a bit but has the ST-L been discontinued? What is supposed to replace it if anyone knows?

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post #40767 of 40785 Old 12-08-2019, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Decepticon07 View Post
I have a set of BP-8080ST that have ran great the past two and a half years. The issue I am having is the woofer on one of the speakers making a constant popping/crackling noise when a LFE signal is present. When I disconnect the power cable it goes away. I have tried a different subwoofer cable, different power cable, etc. It still does this when the speakers are powered and there is an active LFE signal present. When I unplug the speaker it is fine and the noise goes away, but obviously the subwoofer doesn't work in this configuration. I am thinking it may be a bad plate amp. I may swap it with the other tower when I get more time for troubleshooting. I would like to obtain or purchase one but it appears nobody sells these anymore. I sent Def Tech an email at [email protected]. I haven't heard anything back from them. Would anyone have a better contact address? I appreciate any assistance.
I have the bp8060st and I had the same issue. I am covered under warranty so they send me the driver and amp. I pin pointed it to be a amp issue in my case, I'm assuming it was sending a signal with power to the driver and blew the 1st one. I would call them direct and they can look up the driver and amp and send you one either you pay or if your under warranty you'll be set. You'll have to screen shoot where and when you bought if you think your under warranty. I will say their hours are weird.

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post #40768 of 40785 Old 12-09-2019, 07:16 AM
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^ +1.


Call them. You'll have wait on hold, but they seem to be far more responsive to phone calls than emails.

5.1: Power - Denon 4308ci, Fronts - Def Tech BP9040's, Center - Def Tech CLR 2000, Surrounds - Def Tech PM1000's, Sub's - Rythmik E15HP x2, Display - Panasonic TC-55AS530U, TT - Rega Planar 2 w/ Dynavector 10x5
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post #40769 of 40785 Old 12-09-2019, 09:57 AM
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^ +1.


Call them. You'll have wait on hold, but they seem to be far more responsive to phone calls than emails.
I can never seem to make contact when calling in the past! For me the emails worked getting replacement parts.
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post #40770 of 40785 Old 12-09-2019, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decepticon07 View Post
I have a set of BP-8080ST that have ran great the past two and a half years. The issue I am having is the woofer on one of the speakers making a constant popping/crackling noise when a LFE signal is present. When I disconnect the power cable it goes away. I have tried a different subwoofer cable, different power cable, etc. It still does this when the speakers are powered and there is an active LFE signal present. When I unplug the speaker it is fine and the noise goes away, but obviously the subwoofer doesn't work in this configuration. I am thinking it may be a bad plate amp. I may swap it with the other tower when I get more time for troubleshooting. I would like to obtain or purchase one but it appears nobody sells these anymore. I sent Def Tech an email at [email protected]. I haven't heard anything back from them. Would anyone have a better contact address? I appreciate any assistance.


I’ve been away from here for awhile. I hope everyone is doing great!

I also have the 8080’s. Your issue could possibly be a bad bass radiator or an air leak issue of some sort..? I could be wrong. I had an issue with one of mine about two years ago or so and sent it to Def Tech. They fixed it and sent it back within 3 weeks at no charge!!! They are awesome!


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Denon X4300H * Def Tech BP8080st front L/R * Def Tech CLR2002 center * Def Tech ProMonitor 800 surrounds (x4) * Hsu VTF-3 MK5 HP sub * Outlaw OAW4 wireless sub kit * Vizio 60" 4K HDRtv * Sony UBP-X800 Bluray * PS4 * AC Infinity S9 AVR fan
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