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post #28981 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Greetings JLPowell/all,
Spent a bit of time playing with my DIY subs and integration with my DTs this weekend. As mentioned, I've never had dedicated subs and always split my DT towers via "small (60-80Hz)" and ran RCA to the powered section for dedicated sub use. etc. Now, my main test subject/movie was TRON which is quite healthy in the LFE department to say the least. I went back and forth with "small" 40 , 60 and 80 Hz settings and ironically what sounded the best "movie wise" was the single position reading via YPAO... In the past I always preferred YPAO's results after running at least a 5 position measurement then tossing in my own tweaks etc.

My YPAO settings came back with:

All four of my BP7000's: Large/40Hz (yes, Large)
CLR3000: Small/60Hz
UIW75 in-wall Rears: Small/80Hz
Four BP2X Presence Speakers: Small

This is running just speaker wire to all and the dual subs configured via Stereo Sub/LFE outs - all towers-CLR/powered section set to the 12 o'clock position. We rarely listen to music thus did not even test that as of yet.

I switched back and forth from there with Small/40, 60, and 80Hz but admit I was left thinking that Ms. YPAO was on to something... I still have a lot of playing around to do but was surprised at these findings. In the big scheme of things however, I'm not opposed to accepting what Audyssey or YPAO finds in regards to "large/small". If having standalone subs required/mandated an automatic setting of "small" to all other channels to distribute freqs accordingly, both programs would have been configured that way. Depending on the room and the fact either program finds the speakers to be capable of "large", that very well could be the ticket for proper integration and use. As always however, the user must decide by giving it the real world "ear" test. Audyssey and YPAO are just tools in the users box.

My new additions.. Obviously the Reference series driver/amps in the BP7000SC's are no slouch but the dual Rythmik's add LFE that wasn't there prior.
A few pictures below of my DIY's. Still need to sew their "socks" and build the front grills. Currently just sealed them up with flat black/primer - they basically look like DTs with their socks off..... Hmmmm

Cheers














Absolutely fantastic pictures. Great work on your subs!

There is never anyone more right than your ears when setting up and optimizing your room! I'm sure everything sounds great!

It would make it much easier if Definitive just called Mark Seaton and built the new flagship bp 9000 with new 6 1/2" bdss drivers on top of a built in sealed dual opposed Seaton submersive bp. Lets get a true no compromise bi polar speaker with a full range sound down below a real 10 hz.! Collaboration people! Make the bp 9000 Seaton edition! Those would sell out in 5 minutes!

Thanks for sharing KJ!
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post #28982 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 06:02 PM
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Has anyone replaced the amp on a BP tower speaker, and if so, do you have any sage advice you can offer a DIY newbie? I got the replacement amp from Deftech, but I'm a bit nervous about actually doing the amp swap myself. In particular, I'm wondering if there is any soldering involved, and if so, what pitfalls should I be aware of? Also, will I need to remove and replace any of the baffling, or does the amp pull out cleanly once I remove the four screws holding it in place?

I'm really tempted to take it to an electronics despair shop and make this someone else's problem, but secretly I've always admired DIYers, and this seems as good a place to start as any. Thanks for any tips. One thing I know is I need to get my HT up and running again, and fast!

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post #28983 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder240 View Post

Has anyone replaced the amp on a BP tower speaker, and if so, do you have any sage advice you can offer a DIY newbie? I got the replacement amp from Deftech, but I'm a bit nervous about actually doing the amp swap myself. In particular, I'm wondering if there is any soldering involved, and if so, what pitfalls should I be aware of? Also, will I need to remove and replace any of the baffling, or does the amp pull out cleanly once I remove the four screws holding it in place?

I'm really tempted to take it to an electronics despair shop and make this someone else's problem, but secretly I've always admired DIYers, and this seems as good a place to start as any. Thanks for any tips. One thing I know is I need to get my HT up and running again, and fast!

From what I can tell you have the 7002s? I have never swapped amps on a 7002 yet I have on BP2000s and BP7000s. Could you tell me if you are swapping the rear plate section or the amp under/within the bottom speaker/black cap?

Either way its a pretty easy job. No soldering required. Just flat push on style connectors and/or other push/pull type plugs. Most important suggestion I can give you is to have a pencil and tablet handy to jot down some notes, draw a picture etc so you know exactly what wire/connector goes where. Depending on the 7002 my guess is you will have two flat speaker connectors of different color wires and then two other power connectors of size/shape that can only go in the right spot in the right direction - thus hard to screw up etc. but like mentioned, just jot down a few notes and/or pictures to remind yourself. Worse case you always have the other speaker to use for help..biggrin.gif. And no, you should not run into any baffling/batting. All DTs that I have opened up had a sealed amp area etc. just don't over tighten any screws.

Take your time and you will e an expert when finished.

Cheers
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post #28984 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

From what I can tell you have the 7002s? I have never swapped amps on a 7002 yet I have on BP2000s and BP7000s. Could you tell me if you are swapping the rear plate section or the amp under/within the bottom speaker/black cap?

Either way its a pretty easy job. No soldering required. Just flat push on style connectors and/or other push/pull type plugs. Most important suggestion I can give you is to have a pencil and tablet handy to jot down some notes, draw a picture etc so you know exactly what wire/connector goes where. Depending on the 7002 my guess is you will have two flat speaker connectors of different color wires and then two other power connectors of size/shape that can only go in the right spot in the right direction - thus hard to screw up etc. but like mentioned, just jot down a few notes and/or pictures to remind yourself. Worse case you always have the other speaker to use for help..biggrin.gif. And no, you should not run into any baffling/batting. All DTs that I have opened up had a sealed amp area etc. just don't over tighten any screws.

Take your time and you will e an expert when finished.

Cheers

Smitty, I couldn't have asked for better info, thank you for this reply. Yes, it's a 7002 (I should have specified that in the original post). I'll be ready with a pencil and paper!

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post #28985 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
All four of my BP7000's: Large/40Hz (yes, Large)

Large with a crossover?

Btw amazing work smitty! The wood work was very nice indeed. Thanks for posting pics.

With pioneer the crossovers are different correct? For example if you set the crossover to 80hz then your speakers roll off from 80 down and your sub/lfe channel from 80 up right? I know nothing about pioneer avrs...
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post #28986 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosh7 View Post

Absolutely fantastic pictures. Great work on your subs!

There is never anyone more right than your ears when setting up and optimizing your room! I'm sure everything sounds great!

It would make it much easier if Definitive just called Mark Seaton and built the new flagship bp 9000 with new 6 1/2" bdss drivers on top of a built in sealed dual opposed Seaton submersive bp. Lets get a true no compromise bi polar speaker with a full range sound down below a real 10 hz.! Collaboration people! Make the bp 9000 Seaton edition! Those would sell out in 5 minutes!

Thanks for sharing KJ!

Thanks Yosh,
It was an enjoyable DIY build and the integration with the DTs has given me more enjoyment as well.biggrin.gif.
Your BP9000 idea would be impressive to say the least. Maybe in the future if the economy turns some "collaboration" will take place.biggrin.gif. DT my even create a best of their best etc.. For now however I have all the boom my little HT requires. OK, maybe that was my wife's comment.....


Cheers

Love DIY
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post #28987 of 40742 Old 04-02-2013, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CleatusCat View Post

It might be time to get started on those BP 4000TLs smile.gif

I would like move one of the two drivers from the rear of a BP20/30 to the front.

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post #28988 of 40742 Old 04-03-2013, 12:01 AM
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Thunder I replaced an amp on my 7001's when one I bought was defective. Each time I removed a wire I attached a color piece of tape to the wire removed and placed the same color on the new amp and noted its location on a piece of paper. What was strange is the new amp had one extra wire that my old amp didn't have. Had nowhere to connect that one so wrapped it in electrical tape and let it hang. Amp has worked fine for eight years now and still have no clue what that extra wire was for or what it connected to. But by labeling the wires and the corresponding wire on the new amp it made my job reconnecting so much easier.
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post #28989 of 40742 Old 04-03-2013, 06:28 PM
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Smitty, guys, so the good news is that removing the old amp, transfering the connections to the new amp, and remounting the new amp is a piece of cake.

The bad news is that this only solved half of my problem. Whereas with the old amp, I got no sound and no red light on the amp, now the red light on the amp lights up, but still no sound out of any of the drivers, except for a soft, very high pitch whine (barely audible). I triple checked the connections. None are as solid as they would be if soldered, but I am confident that all are making contact, and I'm confident that the connections are identical to before I replaced the amp.

Any ideas of things that could be off with the installation other than the wiring? I realize that a dead crossover would explain the issue, but it seems unlikely that the crossover would have died at the same time as the amp (unless there was a power surge, which seems really unlike since I checked the fuse on the old amp, and its fine, as is my surge protector). At this point I'm contemplating sending the speaker to Deftech for diagnostics, but since I'm outside of warranty, that's something Id rather not do. Thanks for any ideas.

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post #28990 of 40742 Old 04-03-2013, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Large with a crossover?

Btw amazing work smitty! The wood work was very nice indeed. Thanks for posting pics.

With pioneer the crossovers are different correct? For example if you set the crossover to 80hz then your speakers roll off from 80 down and your sub/lfe channel from 80 up right? I know nothing about pioneer avrs...

Greetings Jlpowell,
Thank you for the comments on my DIY subs!
I actually have a Yamaha receiver. I too was a bit surprised when I scrolled through the results/config screens following the YPAOs runs. Mains and side Surrounds listed as Large and 40Hz. I figure either YPAO can set the Large with a crossover (because I know you can't manually), or when a sub is identified Yamaha automatically applies 40Hz as the default to all Large speakers? I may run YPAO without the subs and see if it gives the same results - I wouldn't think it would cap all large speakers to 40Hz...

True, Pioneer AVRs have some strange configurations (non user changeable) that I am sure have some meaning and function yet go against what many of us feel are typical settings etc. I'll admit I know less about sub integration on my Yamaha than I thought I did. I need to do some digging as well. But, that's part of the fun. biggrin.gif

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #28991 of 40742 Old 04-03-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder240 View Post

Smitty, guys, so the good news is that removing the old amp, transfering the connections to the new amp, and remounting the new amp is a piece of cake.

The bad news is that this only solved half of my problem. Whereas with the old amp, I got no sound and no red light on the amp, now the red light on the amp lights up, but still no sound out of any of the drivers, except for a soft, very high pitch whine (barely audible). I triple checked the connections. None are as solid as they would be if soldered, but I am confident that all are making contact, and I'm confident that the connections are identical to before I replaced the amp.

Any ideas of things that could be off with the installation other than the wiring? I realize that a dead crossover would explain the issue, but it seems unlikely that the crossover would have died at the same time as the amp (unless there was a power surge, which seems really unlike since I checked the fuse on the old amp, and its fine, as is my surge protector). At this point I'm contemplating sending the speaker to Deftech for diagnostics, but since I'm outside of warranty, that's something Id rather not do. Thanks for any ideas.

Well that's no good..
-So is the amp you are swapping the black aluminum plate section on the lower back of the speaker or is it located elsewhere like under the bottom cap?
-Did you get the amp direct from Definitive or eBay?

Well, at this point you may want to call Definitive and tell them the above. They could guide you from there.
-What I would probably do given the ease of the swap, I would swap your new amp with/into your other functioning 7002. You could then see if the other amp works in the non functioning speaker and the new amp in the other etc.
-If you open up your other 7002 double check your wiring on/with the other first thing, to rule that out.
-I would try the new amp in your other speaker first. If it does the same thing there, IE nothing, then you know it's bad. If it works then you know something else is wrong in your non functioning 7002.

Hmmmmm.

Love DIY
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post #28992 of 40742 Old 04-03-2013, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Greetings Jlpowell,
Thank you for the comments on my DIY subs!
I actually have a Yamaha receiver. I too was a bit surprised when I scrolled through the results/config screens following the YPAOs runs. Mains and side Surrounds listed as Large and 40Hz. I figure either YPAO can set the Large with a crossover (because I know you can't manually), or when a sub is identified Yamaha automatically applies 40Hz as the default to all Large speakers? I may run YPAO without the subs and see if it gives the same results - I wouldn't think it would cap all large speakers to 40Hz...

True, Pioneer AVRs have some strange configurations (non user changeable) that I am sure have some meaning and function yet go against what many of us feel are typical settings etc. I'll admit I know less about sub integration on my Yamaha than I thought I did. I need to do some digging as well. But, that's part of the fun. biggrin.gif

Cheers

My bad, I knew YPAO is Yamaha. 40hz and large does sound like a contradictory statement. But like you said, part of figuring out the process.

So I also follow the HSU VTF-15H forum since I have one. A number of them have their sub firing at the wall or corner to improve SQ. I play around but visually I don't think I would like it.
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post #28993 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 01:08 AM
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Well just read that DT is recalling their Supercube 2000 subs due to risk of shock. Anyway here's the link for those interested.

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2013/Definitive-Technology-Recalls-SuperCube-2000-Subwoofers/
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post #28994 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

Well just read that DT is recalling their Supercube 2000 subs due to risk of shock. Anyway here's the link for those interested.

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2013/Definitive-Technology-Recalls-SuperCube-2000-Subwoofers/

That interesting. Installed a new AVR a couple of days ago. AVR wasn't plugged in. When I picked up the speaker wires from my 8060 towers, I felt a slight "bite" that had to be electrical. I had left the 8060's plugged in during the exchange. LFE cables were not being used at the time. All electric goes thru a surge protector and it didn't react. No harm to me and hopefully not to any other equipment.
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post #28995 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

That interesting. Installed a new AVR a couple of days ago. AVR wasn't plugged in. When I picked up the speaker wires from my 8060 towers, I felt a slight "bite" that had to be electrical. I had left the 8060's plugged in during the exchange. LFE cables were not being used at the time. All electric goes thru a surge protector and it didn't react. No harm to me and hopefully not to any other equipment.

Maybe it's just a function of their new "4D" line of speakers/subs...biggrin.gif. They give that little extra for realism...

I'm sure DT will get it sorted out.

Love DIY
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post #28996 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 01:35 PM
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I would like to hear your opinions, views and experiences with room treatments. There is a place called Accoustic Science Corp a block from my work. I never knew it was there until recent. But seeing it had me reading up on room treatments, the theory behind them and stuff like that. I couldnt see myself buying any of there products considering how expensive they are. I'll provide a link in case you wanted to look. Let me know what yall think about room treatments and your experiences...

http://www.acousticsciences.com/ My HT
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post #28997 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 04:28 PM
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Thanks to all here for your helpful info!

Maybe someone could help me make a decision...

I currently have a 9.1 setup, with all DefTech speakers:
Fronts: Mythos Ones
Center: Mythos Seven
Wides: Mythos Fives
Heights: ProMonitor 800s
Surrounds: Mythos Eights
Sub: Velodyne 15" (15 years old)
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR3008 (Audyssey DSX to run the 9.1)

I was originally thinking of upgrading the Ones to an ST or STS and the center to a Ten or CS-8080. Then moving the Ones to the wides position. But I was also considering leaving the Ones as my mains and getting a new higher end sub (say an 8000 or Reference) and replace the Seven center with a CS-8060 or CS-8080. My total budget is around $3000-4000 (but I'd like to keep it between $2K - $3K), so I know if I'm looking at the ST or STSs I'll have to find used or refurbished.

So my questions are:

Would the Ones with a great sub sound as good or close to an ST or STS?

What sub would you recommend if I stayed with the Ones as mains?

Does the CS-8080 really sound noticeably different than the Ten (not going to wall mount, will be on a shelf on a media console)? (Sorry, I know there's lots on conversations about this on this forum - just wanted an opinion)

Would the CS-8060/80 be a good replacement for the Seven and match well with the Ones?

Overall, which setup would give me the best performance for the buck?

Sorry to ask so many questions. It's just a big purchase for me and I value any advice.

Thanks in Advance
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post #28998 of 40742 Old 04-04-2013, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xip Xero View Post

Thanks to all here for your helpful info!

Maybe someone could help me make a decision...

I currently have a 9.1 setup, with all DefTech speakers:
Fronts: Mythos Ones
Center: Mythos Seven
Wides: Mythos Fives
Heights: ProMonitor 800s
Surrounds: Mythos Eights
Sub: Velodyne 15" (15 years old)
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR3008 (Audyssey DSX to run the 9.1)

I was originally thinking of upgrading the Ones to an ST or STS and the center to a Ten or CS-8080. Then moving the Ones to the wides position. But I was also considering leaving the Ones as my mains and getting a new higher end sub (say an 8000 or Reference) and replace the Seven center with a CS-8060 or CS-8080. My total budget is around $3000-4000 (but I'd like to keep it between $2K - $3K), so I know if I'm looking at the ST or STSs I'll have to find used or refurbished.

So my questions are:

Would the Ones with a great sub sound as good or close to an ST or STS?

What sub would you recommend if I stayed with the Ones as mains?

Does the CS-8080 really sound noticeably different than the Ten (not going to wall mount, will be on a shelf on a media console)? (Sorry, I know there's lots on conversations about this on this forum - just wanted an opinion)

Would the CS-8060/80 be a good replacement for the Seven and match well with the Ones?

Overall, which setup would give me the best performance for the buck?

Sorry to ask so many questions. It's just a big purchase for me and I value any advice.

Thanks in Advance

I think you would notice the biggest difference with a subwoofer upgrade. The second would be upgrading your center channel. I would vote for selling the velodyne and mythos 10 on audiogon and upgrading to a Seaton submersive hp and a 8080hd center. This could probably done for around 3 grand or so and you you'd get some cash for the sub and center you would sell.
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post #28999 of 40742 Old 04-05-2013, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

I would like to hear your opinions, views and experiences with room treatments. There is a place called Accoustic Science Corp a block from my work. I never knew it was there until recent. But seeing it had me reading up on room treatments, the theory behind them and stuff like that. I couldnt see myself buying any of there products considering how expensive they are. I'll provide a link in case you wanted to look. Let me know what yall think about room treatments and your experiences...

http://www.acousticsciences.com/ My HT

Room treatments are an excellent investment. ASC products are done of the more expensive, but I've heard very good things about their tube traps too.

If you're thinking about treatments, the best place to start is by putting up some broadband absorption panels at first reflection points. These can easily be purchased from several places or quite easily made yourself. They're basically framed insulation panels covered in fabric. I made some myself not long ago and decided to use a website called spoonflower to print my own designs on fabric for sci-fi themed panels.
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post #29000 of 40742 Old 04-05-2013, 09:40 AM
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Edit: accidental double post from mobile site
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post #29001 of 40742 Old 04-05-2013, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder240 View Post

Smitty, I couldn't have asked for better info, thank you for this reply. Yes, it's a 7002 (I should have specified that in the original post). I'll be ready with a pencil and paper!
Hey Thunder, don't hesitate to touch base with TJ, Adam and Chet @ [email protected] Or you can call them at 800-228-7148 for some helpful hints. Best, Joe
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post #29002 of 40742 Old 04-05-2013, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

Well just read that DT is recalling their Supercube 2000 subs due to risk of shock. Anyway here's the link for those interested.

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2013/Definitive-Technology-Recalls-SuperCube-2000-Subwoofers/
Hello U of A, thanks for your post and yes, we had a run of SC 2000 subs manufactured in September that had a potential issue. We got on it right away, and we think that by the end of January, we have contacted everyone that was involved, and gotten them taken care of. Please note that this ONLY involves the SuperCube 2000 subs with “0912HB” as part of the serial number. All other SC 2000's are unaffected. Thanks again - best, Joe
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post #29003 of 40742 Old 04-05-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by joeatdefinitive View Post

Hey Thunder, don't hesitate to touch base with TJ, Adam and Chet @ [email protected] Or you can call them at 800-228-7148 for some helpful hints. Best, Joe
BTW this came from the AVS Forum's report on the Son & Image show in Montreal: "Most of the systems under the $5k mark were indeed impressive, but the one that struck me the most included the Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 65 bookshelf speakers. I was totally surprised by the wall of sound this pair of speakers was capable of projecting. With a reasonable price tag of $900/pair MSRP, you have plenty of budget to spend on good amplification and a decent source. I will be writing a more in-depth review of the Definitive speaker setup, so stay tuned for that."
Nice! Here is a link to the review.
https://www.avsforum.com/t/1465682/montreal-hi-fi-show-ssi-expo-2013-impressions
Best, Joe
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post #29004 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 06:55 AM
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Newegg has a very good deal on the SM350. You could get a used clr2002 for about 150 and four of those and have a nice 5.0 setup for under $500.
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post #29005 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by laeriq View Post

Newegg has a very good deal on the SM350. You could get a clr2002 for about 150 and four of those and have a nice 5.0 setup for under $500.

Yes, an extra $30 off for $150/pr.

Living room: Vizio P75 - Definitive BP2000TL, CLR3000, BPVX Bedroom: Definitive BP30, CLR2000
Theater: JVC RS540, 130" Centerstage XD, 1099 L/C/R, Definitive BPVX/BPX, quad SI 18
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post #29006 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 11:27 AM
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Long story short, I received the def tech cs8040 hd center and the 8040 surrounds for free. The center replaced my Bic America dv 62clrs. I'm still using the Bic dv 64's as mains, and they utilize a silk dome tweeter. Is it worth it to switch to the def tech bp6's over the dv 64's? I can get the bp6's for a great deal.
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post #29007 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 11:37 AM
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Long story short, I received the def tech cs8040 hd center and the 8040 surrounds for free. The center replaced my Bic America dv 62clrs. I'm still using the Bic dv 64's as mains, and they utilize a silk dome tweeter. Is it worth it to switch to the def tech bp6's over the dv 64's? I can get the bp6's for a great deal.

I have no idea what the Bic's sound like, but the BP6's should match better and they are bipolar if you like that.

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post #29008 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 11:49 AM
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I have no idea what the Bic's sound like, but the BP6's should match better at her they are bipolar if you like that.

I do like the bipolar sound. I'm just trying to get some information before I order them. The bics have 2 6.5 in drivers and the silk dome tweeter. The bp6's have the aluminum tweeters and 2 5.25 mid drivers. I already have a sub and the mains are set to "small". was just looking for an owner to step forward if possible
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post #29009 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 11:50 AM
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Or a clarification on how the bp6's would play with the 8040 center
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post #29010 of 40742 Old 04-06-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick1229 View Post

Or a clarification on how the bp6's would play with the 8040 center
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick1229 View Post

Or a clarification on how the bp6's would play with the 8040 center

I have bp6's for my mains and have been very happy with them. Was using a pro center 2000 with them and just ordered a c/l/r 2002 that i will set up next week. I recently audittioned a couple of receivers in BB using the closest match to 6b's the 8040 towers and center. I dont want to offend anyone, but those 6b's held thier own. They do need a little room to breath though, not sure if you have the space. I was able to get them cheap a few years ago when 6 ave.. was still around. I dont't think you can go wrong at least trying them.
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