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post #55951 of 56049 Old 04-05-2020, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Philips752 View Post
Thanks for your reply.
Mine are about 8 feet apart as well, but about 13-14 feet from MLP. Quite a bit limited were they can go. Toe in about to each ear, they are quite good off axis I believe.
The room doesn't like rear ported speakers even book shelve. Demo the 2.4i and far too boomy, think they were rear and front ported.

You say 8inch from front wall is that to the front all the a back of speaker?
How far are they placed from side walls?
MLP how far from back wall?

I have room modes at 29 and 37hz.

Thanks again
8" from the back of the speakers to the wall. 8" from the front of the speaker is impossible since the speakers are over 12" deep. My left speakers is about 30" from the side wall but my right speaker is about 12-15 feet from the side wall. My room layout is far from ideal as far as acoustics is concerned.
True just thought of that.
Red somewhere the speakers should be 85cm from boundaries, ok if you can do that.
Have urge at times about a really nice pair of stand mounts (have Atacama stands currently with fill) + real nice sub/s REL 212se x 2. But like what I have.
Unless you have a dedicated room very hard.
How far from back wall do you sit?
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post #55952 of 56049 Old 04-05-2020, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Philips752 View Post
Unless you have a dedicated room very hard.
How far from back wall do you sit?
I have a staircase going down to the basement behind the couch and the wall is about 8' behind the couch.
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post #55953 of 56049 Old 04-05-2020, 06:23 PM
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Thinking of replacing my RC-70 rear speakers with RC-10's for my living room as I think they might look better and not sound too different. (I have a NIB set of RC-10s in my closet)

Brand new home with very modern look with glass and metal furniture.

Anyone know of any speaker stands that are beautiful to look at that would fit the RC-10s? Cost is not a factor.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

https://www.audioadvisor.com/products.asp?dept=54

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Gla.../dp/B00Y42B874

https://www.accessories4less.com/mak...rackets/1.html
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post #55954 of 56049 Old 04-05-2020, 07:42 PM
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Hi hope you are all OK.
Im revisiting my speaker / main listening position.
Speakers are Veritas 2.3i (floorstander)
Use is 95% music.
Anybody that can share info on this would be appreciated e.g how far from the front wall etc.

Thanks in advance
It's not an easy topic, as there are many competing variables and you will have to experiment to find the optimum compromise for your room and your preferences.

For optimum stereo listening for 2ch music, the speakers should theoretically be in the 53-60 degree range of angular spread. It's pretty easy to estimate without complicated math:

- 53 degrees = speakers spaced apart about as far as you are from the center point between the speakers, i.e. if you sit 10' back, space the speakers 10' apart
- 60 degrees = equilateral triangle, so if the speakers are 10' apart you scoot forward a bit so you are 10' from each speaker

If the speakers are narrower than ~50 degrees apart, you will lose the sense of stereo soundstage and immersion. You mention you are 13-14' back and the speakers are 8' apart... you're not even achieving a 40 degree stereo angle!

Grab a chair, and try sitting 8-10' back from the speakers with some good 2ch music, you will hear the difference in stereo soundstage, separation, etc. Spend some time finding your preference point, if you lean back in the chair you're probably around 53 degrees, lean forward a bit and you'll get closer to 60 degrees.

Now go sit back in your normal spot 13-14' back, and you'll hear how the soundstage is collapsed relatively. One option, if you can't move the seating forward, is to pull the speakers closer to you which increases the relative angle of spread.

So that's one factor... but then you have to consider things like room acoustics. If the room / seating layout prevents you from achieving a >50 degree stereo spread, you can widen the soundstage psychoacoustically by utilizing lateral reflections, perhaps with some 2D diffusion or combo panels strategically placed on the side walls along with some bare wall for reflection. Strong lateral reflections from +/- 60 degrees are strongly preferred by most listeners and increase the sense of envelopment and "auditory source width" (ASW).

Also, with 2ch music having 3D diffusion on the back wall (provided you are at least 5-6 feet away since diffusion need space to work) helps make the room sound more "spacous", it breaks up the hard reflections behind you but scatters the sound in all directions so the energy is preserved but your brain perceives it as a larger space.

Then you have to consider bass resonances... those can come from room modes and also boundary interference from reflections off surfaces close to the speakers. If you want the best bass, it's not quite as simple as saying "the speaker is front ported so I don't have to space it off the wall". Bass still radiates omnidirectionally, so if for example the front baffle of the speaker is 2' off the back wall you will get a phase cancellation at ~140Hz (the wavelength of which is ~8feet, so the bass travels 2 feet back and then 2 feet forward and arrives 180 degrees out of phase at 140Hz).

The closer you are to the boundary, the higher the SBIR notch will be, the farther from the boundary the lower it gets. A common technique is (if space permits) to put the speaker at least 3-4 feet from the walls which moves the cancellation down to 80Hz or below, which then becomes irrelevant when bass managed to a multi-subwoofer setup.

But wait, there's more! If the speaker is equidistant from two boundaries, for example ~2ft from both the back wall and side wall, then you'll get an extra powerful double-dipping boundary interference null. So you want to make sure the boundaries are different distances from the speaker.

SBIR can be mitigated by not only careful speaker placement, but also bass absorbers. So if you're adding acoustic treatment, placing thick bass absorbers behind the speakers and directly to the sides will help smooth out the mid/upper bass region. In this case, ironically, things get easier to treat as the speaker moves closer to the boundary, since that moves the wavelength of cancellation higher up (and a 300Hz wave which is <4ft long is much easier to absorb effectively than a 120Hz wave which is almost 10ft long).

Then you want to consider that moving the speaker closer to a boundary creates boundary gain, which like boundary interference is multiplicative if there are multiple boundaries. In excess (e.g. a speaker placed in a corner) it will create excessively boomy bass. Don't want that.

Finally the question of toe-in.... this will largely be about personal preference. I'm assuming you only care about one seat in the sweet spot... because the Veritas speakers have very wide, even dispersion, the biggest difference between being on vs off axis will be the degree of roll-off in the high frequencies. If you find the speakers to be a bit too bright, try toeing them in less to put you more off axis. On the flip side, the less you toe in, the more energy you put into the ipsilateral sidewall reflection. With a speaker like the Veritas, that's often a good thing as (again) they have extremely smooth off-axis behavior, so those reflections will enhance the sense of ASW.

So as with stereo angle, toe-in angle requires a bit of trial and error to establish your preference. Toe the speakers in more, the more focused the sound and the more bright the high frequencies.... decrease the toe in, the highs will roll off more and the energy in the lateral reflections increase, so you trade off some "focus" for increased "envelopment".

The bottom line TL/DR: all of these variables are in play, so if you want to optimize your 2ch listening you need to be willing to experiment, and potentially consider some targeted acoustic treatments. Speaker spacing, distance from boundaries, distance from the listener, toe-in angle, etc. should all be tweaked and compared to find the sweet spot that gives the most pleasing results in your room. If you don't have measurement gear, that means it will just be a process of trial and error. Hopefully, the info above gives you some solid science on which to guide your experimentation. Good luck!
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post #55955 of 56049 Old 04-06-2020, 06:41 AM
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Hi everyone -

Maybe 5-6 years ago I purchased a pair of Energy RC-10's for a stereo set up in my apartment. I'm now looking to build out a home theater set up in my basement with a projector. I can either reuse the RC-10's as LR speakers or replace them all together.

My question is, how do the RC-10's stack up against many of the $300-$400 bookshelves that are available today? Specifically the Elac B6.2s. Is it worth buying new bookshelves or just reuse the RC-10's? Also, if I reuse, I'm hoping to find an Energy RC-LCR center speaker to match the RC-10s. Any leads on where I could pick one up?

Last edited by teachsac; 04-11-2020 at 03:46 PM.
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post #55956 of 56049 Old 04-06-2020, 09:52 AM
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Also, if I reuse, I'm hoping to find an Energy RC-LCR center speaker to match the RC-10s. Any leads on where I could pick one up?
https://gibbyselectronicsupermarket....nergy+speakers

Gibby's in Canada has somehow started selling Energy RC speakers again. The RCLCR isn't on their website right now but it was a couple of weeks ago. I'd contact them about their stock level and if they ship across the border. Shipping will be expensive if they do, but the CAN$-USA$ exchange rate should make up for it.
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post #55957 of 56049 Old 04-06-2020, 12:47 PM
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https://gibbyselectronicsupermarket....nergy+speakers

Gibby's in Canada has somehow started selling Energy RC speakers again. The RCLCR isn't on their website right now but it was a couple of weeks ago. I'd contact them about their stock level and if they ship across the border. Shipping will be expensive if they do, but the CAN$-USA$ exchange rate should make up for it.
Unfortunately Gibby's won't ship to the US. I've tried reaching out to them and see if there are any exceptions, but nope.

If I can't find an RC-LCR, is there another option center channel option from Energy that I should look at? I was shooting for the RC-LCR to match from a visual and sound standpoint.
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post #55958 of 56049 Old 04-06-2020, 01:08 PM
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Unfortunately Gibby's won't ship to the US. I've tried reaching out to them and see if there are any exceptions, but nope.

If I can't find an RC-LCR, is there another option center channel option from Energy that I should look at? I was shooting for the RC-LCR to match from a visual and sound standpoint.
If you could find a pair of RC10s, you could use one as a center and have the other for parts or as a backup.
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post #55959 of 56049 Old 04-06-2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philips752 View Post
Hi hope you are all OK.
Im revisiting my speaker / main listening position.
Speakers are Veritas 2.3i (floorstander)
Use is 95% music.
Anybody that can share info on this would be appreciated e.g how far from the front wall etc.

Thanks in advance
It's not an easy topic, as there are many competing variables and you will have to experiment to find the optimum compromise for your room and your preferences.

For optimum stereo listening for 2ch music, the speakers should theoretically be in the 53-60 degree range of angular spread. It's pretty easy to estimate without complicated math:

- 53 degrees = speakers spaced apart about as far as you are from the center point between the speakers, i.e. if you sit 10' back, space the speakers 10' apart
- 60 degrees = equilateral triangle, so if the speakers are 10' apart you scoot forward a bit so you are 10' from each speaker

If the speakers are narrower than ~50 degrees apart, you will lose the sense of stereo soundstage and immersion. You mention you are 13-14' back and the speakers are 8' apart... you're not even achieving a 40 degree stereo angle!

Grab a chair, and try sitting 8-10' back from the speakers with some good 2ch music, you will hear the difference in stereo soundstage, separation, etc. Spend some time finding your preference point, if you lean back in the chair you're probably around 53 degrees, lean forward a bit and you'll get closer to 60 degrees.

Now go sit back in your normal spot 13-14' back, and you'll hear how the soundstage is collapsed relatively. One option, if you can't move the seating forward, is to pull the speakers closer to you which increases the relative angle of spread.

So that's one factor... but then you have to consider things like room acoustics. If the room / seating layout prevents you from achieving a >50 degree stereo spread, you can widen the soundstage psychoacoustically by utilizing lateral reflections, perhaps with some 2D diffusion or combo panels strategically placed on the side walls along with some bare wall for reflection. Strong lateral reflections from +/- 60 degrees are strongly preferred by most listeners and increase the sense of envelopment and "auditory source width" (ASW).

Also, with 2ch music having 3D diffusion on the back wall (provided you are at least 5-6 feet away since diffusion need space to work) helps make the room sound more "spacous", it breaks up the hard reflections behind you but scatters the sound in all directions so the energy is preserved but your brain perceives it as a larger space.

Then you have to consider bass resonances... those can come from room modes and also boundary interference from reflections off surfaces close to the speakers. If you want the best bass, it's not quite as simple as saying "the speaker is front ported so I don't have to space it off the wall". Bass still radiates omnidirectionally, so if for example the front baffle of the speaker is 2' off the back wall you will get a phase cancellation at ~140Hz (the wavelength of which is ~8feet, so the bass travels 2 feet back and then 2 feet forward and arrives 180 degrees out of phase at 140Hz).

The closer you are to the boundary, the higher the SBIR notch will be, the farther from the boundary the lower it gets. A common technique is (if space permits) to put the speaker at least 3-4 feet from the walls which moves the cancellation down to 80Hz or below, which then becomes irrelevant when bass managed to a multi-subwoofer setup.

But wait, there's more! If the speaker is equidistant from two boundaries, for example ~2ft from both the back wall and side wall, then you'll get an extra powerful double-dipping boundary interference null. So you want to make sure the boundaries are different distances from the speaker.

SBIR can be mitigated by not only careful speaker placement, but also bass absorbers. So if you're adding acoustic treatment, placing thick bass absorbers behind the speakers and directly to the sides will help smooth out the mid/upper bass region. In this case, ironically, things get easier to treat as the speaker moves closer to the boundary, since that moves the wavelength of cancellation higher up (and a 300Hz wave which is <4ft long is much easier to absorb effectively than a 120Hz wave which is almost 10ft long).

Then you want to consider that moving the speaker closer to a boundary creates boundary gain, which like boundary interference is multiplicative if there are multiple boundaries. In excess (e.g. a speaker placed in a corner) it will create excessively boomy bass. Don't want that.

Finally the question of toe-in.... this will largely be about personal preference. I'm assuming you only care about one seat in the sweet spot... because the Veritas speakers have very wide, even dispersion, the biggest difference between being on vs off axis will be the degree of roll-off in the high frequencies. If you find the speakers to be a bit too bright, try toeing them in less to put you more off axis. On the flip side, the less you toe in, the more energy you put into the ipsilateral sidewall reflection. With a speaker like the Veritas, that's often a good thing as (again) they have extremely smooth off-axis behavior, so those reflections will enhance the sense of ASW.

So as with stereo angle, toe-in angle requires a bit of trial and error to establish your preference. Toe the speakers in more, the more focused the sound and the more bright the high frequencies.... decrease the toe in, the highs will roll off more and the energy in the lateral reflections increase, so you trade off some "focus" for increased "envelopment".

The bottom line TL/DR: all of these variables are in play, so if you want to optimize your 2ch listening you need to be willing to experiment, and potentially consider some targeted acoustic treatments. Speaker spacing, distance from boundaries, distance from the listener, toe-in angle, etc. should all be tweaked and compared to find the sweet spot that gives the most pleasing results in your room. If you don't have measurement gear, that means it will just be a process of trial and error. Hopefully, the info above gives you some solid science on which to guide your experimentation. Good luck! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Thank you for your reply.
I left the speakers were they are and sat on a stool and then returned to listening position, yes definitely a difference. Think I would probably toe them in. Thanks for that test, I'm sick can't lift. Unfortunately can't sit there typical.
Yes I do have measurement gear, something I can do without lifting.
Would I measure left and right seperate or combined as frequencies <100 are considered to mono?

Room is about 26 ft long x 15 ft wide it's a living room.
Speakers about 2.5ft side wall 3 ft front wall (from middle off baffle of speaker).

Thanks again appreciate it.
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post #55960 of 56049 Old 04-08-2020, 10:21 AM
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thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post
https://gibbyselectronicsupermarket....nergy+speakers

Gibby's in Canada has somehow started selling Energy RC speakers again. The RCLCR isn't on their website right now but it was a couple of weeks ago. I'd contact them about their stock level and if they ship across the border. Shipping will be expensive if they do, but the CAN$-USA$ exchange rate should make up for it.
WOAH!!!!! Are they coming bacccccckkkk?????????

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
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post #55961 of 56049 Old 04-08-2020, 11:09 AM
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WOAH!!!!! Are they coming bacccccckkkk?????????
I have no clue where they are sourcing these from but my guess is that they are new old stock.
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post #55962 of 56049 Old 04-08-2020, 02:08 PM
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I have no clue where they are sourcing these from but my guess is that they are new old stock.
Makes sense.

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
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post #55963 of 56049 Old 04-19-2020, 01:09 AM
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Hey guys, so I’ve got a whole setup of Energy connoisseur but have some questions and need opinions here. I have CF-70s as the fronts with CC-10 center and CF-50 surrounds. I Have the opportunity to upgrade to RC-LCR center and RC-70 for the front three but can’t get my hands on RC-50 or RC-30 for surrounds. Should I consider this upgrade worth it? I’ve never heard the RC vs CF but I know they are definitely better. I’m so torn as finding replacement parts for the RCs will be very difficult if I ever have an issue. For my CFs, I have scooped up many spares over the years but rarely ever see any spares come available on eBay for the RCs. This is a calculated decision and I’d love to upgrade but just want some opinions on what I should do with the CF-50 surrounds if I upgrade. I could leave them for the time being but I want my set to all match. On top of that, I don’t want to run bookshelf speakers as I see that as a downgrade from running a full cf-50 tower. I just have concerns as the RC is even older and was discontinued a while before. I don’t know if it’s worth it.
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post #55964 of 56049 Old 04-20-2020, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by oliverc94 View Post
Hey guys, so I’ve got a whole setup of Energy connoisseur but have some questions and need opinions here. I have CF-70s as the fronts with CC-10 center and CF-50 surrounds. I Have the opportunity to upgrade to RC-LCR center and RC-70 for the front three but can’t get my hands on RC-50 or RC-30 for surrounds. Should I consider this upgrade worth it? I’ve never heard the RC vs CF but I know they are definitely better. I’m so torn as finding replacement parts for the RCs will be very difficult if I ever have an issue. For my CFs, I have scooped up many spares over the years but rarely ever see any spares come available on eBay for the RCs. This is a calculated decision and I’d love to upgrade but just want some opinions on what I should do with the CF-50 surrounds if I upgrade. I could leave them for the time being but I want my set to all match. On top of that, I don’t want to run bookshelf speakers as I see that as a downgrade from running a full cf-50 tower. I just have concerns as the RC is even older and was discontinued a while before. I don’t know if it’s worth it.
Go for it, the RC speakers are MUCH better than the entry-level Connoisseurs. I wouldn't worry about spare parts, speakers shouldn't break unless you are working them too hard.

I also wouldn't sweat using RC-10's for surrounds even coming from the CF-50 towers. Just set the crossover a bit higher, the RC-10's are VERY robust bookshelf speakers that can play very loud without distortion. The build quality of the drivers and components is much higher on the RC speakers.

Alternately, you can just use the CF-50's as surrounds for now and bide your time waiting for an RC-30/50 to show up on the used market.

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post #55965 of 56049 Old 04-23-2020, 09:54 AM
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I recently dusted off my old C-C100 as a "movie mono" speaker for my "Drive-in Theater" cart.

I'm amazed at how powerful the sound is from that single speaker.

It's a great option for anyone who's interested in setting up outdoor movies this summer.Click image for larger version

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post #55966 of 56049 Old 04-23-2020, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oliverc94 View Post
Hey guys, so I’ve got a whole setup of Energy connoisseur but have some questions and need opinions here. I have CF-70s as the fronts with CC-10 center and CF-50 surrounds. I Have the opportunity to upgrade to RC-LCR center and RC-70 for the front three but can’t get my hands on RC-50 or RC-30 for surrounds. Should I consider this upgrade worth it? I’ve never heard the RC vs CF but I know they are definitely better. I’m so torn as finding replacement parts for the RCs will be very difficult if I ever have an issue. For my CFs, I have scooped up many spares over the years but rarely ever see any spares come available on eBay for the RCs. This is a calculated decision and I’d love to upgrade but just want some opinions on what I should do with the CF-50 surrounds if I upgrade. I could leave them for the time being but I want my set to all match. On top of that, I don’t want to run bookshelf speakers as I see that as a downgrade from running a full cf-50 tower. I just have concerns as the RC is even older and was discontinued a while before. I don’t know if it’s worth it.
Whether or not it's "worth it" is very subjective. I haven't heard the connoisseur series at all, but my RC speakers replaced the e:XL series speakers that I had (older than the connoisseurs, but entry level as well) and it was a huge improvement and totally worth it (to my ears). And to add to batpig's approval on the RC10s for surround speakers, the RC30s and RC50s are quite uncommon compared to the RC10s and I'm not even sure that I would notice a difference between them as surround speakers.

Last edited by brendelac; 04-23-2020 at 01:50 PM.
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post #55967 of 56049 Old 04-26-2020, 11:43 AM
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I Have the opportunity to upgrade to RC-LCR center and RC-70 for the front three but can’t get my hands on RC-50 or RC-30 for surrounds.
I used a set of RC-70s for my rears in my new system installed in January!

Fronts are RC-70s and an RC-LCR.

I found 3 NIB sets on CL in another state!!!!!

😎It's just life, dude. We are all gonna die sometime--Might as well try and have a kickass time while we're still here.😜
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post #55968 of 56049 Old 05-07-2020, 05:01 PM
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Does anyone know if a Energy Veritas V-MINI tweeter will fit in a Energy veritas 6.3? Looking at pictures, the screw pattern looks a little different. Any help would be great!
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post #55969 of 56049 Old 05-07-2020, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dasanii19 View Post
Does anyone know if a Energy Veritas V-MINI tweeter will fit in a Energy veritas 6.3? Looking at pictures, the screw pattern looks a little different. Any help would be great!
I assume you have called Klipsch to see if by chance they have a replacement tweeter? I was able to get a replacement woofer driver for a V-mini .... granted that was a while back, but still, they may have V6.3 tweeter.... Technically though, it appears both the V6.3 and V-mini do use a 1 inch tweeter.
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post #55970 of 56049 Old 05-07-2020, 05:50 PM
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Yes, ive looked and called everywhere. The mini looks the same except for the screw pattern. Hopefully someone has some insight.
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post #55971 of 56049 Old 05-14-2020, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasanii19 View Post
Yes, ive looked and called everywhere. The mini looks the same except for the screw pattern. Hopefully someone has some insight.
Ugh..had you posted this a month ago I could've helped you out. I had a V-MINI which I sold, and I have a pair of 6.3's here too.

Last edited by uh2; 05-14-2020 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Missing words
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post #55972 of 56049 Old 05-14-2020, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by uh2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dasanii19 View Post
Yes, ive looked and called everywhere. The mini looks the same except for the screw pattern. Hopefully someone has some insight.
Ugh..had you posted this a month ago I could've helped you out. I had a V-MINI which I sold, and I have a pair of 6.3's here too. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif[/IMG]
Oh man. All gone now?

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post #55973 of 56049 Old 05-14-2020, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dasanii19 View Post
Oh man. All gone now?
Actually, no. The V-MINI was doing duty in a second theater that the kids used in the basement. The V6.3's were in my office paired with a McIntosh 2205 amp. We've moved and are downsizing so for the time being I'm moving the 6.3's to front L+R duty with a V5.1 center channel. I'm moving the v5.1's that were previously in the front, to the rear.

I replaced the V-MINI with an RP-450C.
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post #55974 of 56049 Old 05-14-2020, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dasanii19 View Post
Oh man. All gone now?
Quote:
Originally Posted by uh2 View Post
Actually, no. The V-MINI was doing duty in a second theater that the kids used in the basement. The V6.3's were in my office paired with a McIntosh 2205 amp. We've moved and are downsizing so for the time being I'm moving the 6.3's to front L+R duty with a V5.1 center channel. I'm moving the v5.1's that were previously in the front, to the rear.

I replaced the V-MINI with an RP-450C.
The good thing about downsizing and moving is I ran across a new V6.3 woofer and crossover network that I ordered from Klipsch a long time ago and forgot about.
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post #55975 of 56049 Old 05-17-2020, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by uh2 View Post
The good thing about downsizing and moving is I ran across a new V6.3 woofer and crossover network that I ordered from Klipsch a long time ago and forgot about.
I can relate,

Somewhere in this house is a spare RC70/50/30 Base new in box, as well as 2 replacement LEDS for a s10.3 sub, and a veritas 2.4 or 2.4i driver new in the box.

Just yesterday, a pair of tweeter / mid assemblies from the 2.2/2.3/2.4 Veritas models sold for (excuse me while I choke on this) 45.00 + 15 shipping, they were pulls and in known working condition. The crossover networks were sold to for about the same.

a pair for $60.00 give / take what state or region you are in.


I saw it too when i woke up, and it it didnt say buy it now. said starting at 50.00 or best offer. I figured it would end up way in the 250.00 to 325 range. for a pair. I was mistaken.


Cant win if you don't try. Oh well, I have a few spares but know of someone right now looking for a pair for a set of 2.4 or 2.4is. Not sure which they have.

I still have a working set of 2.3is for full parts, and 2 sets of 2.2is if it comes down to it. (One is 2.2HB with i series replacement woofers.

I could use some 2.2i baffles , the 2.2 ones are bugly.
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post #55976 of 56049 Old 05-17-2020, 05:58 PM
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I can relate,

Somewhere in this house
I'm LMAO right now because we're going through the attic and finding things that I was like...whoa...forgot about this. It's been an eBay/OfferUp/LetGo/Nextdoor few months.

Believe it or not, I found a McIntosh MQ101 gifted to me by my father. I had no need for it, so I put it in my office and totally forgot it was there. I gave the wood case some TLC with some orange oil, sold it on eBay and send the proceeds to my father, 3 times the MSRP he paid for it back in the day.
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post #55977 of 56049 Old 05-18-2020, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

Somewhere in this house is a spare RC70/50/30 Base new in box

Just yesterday, a pair of tweeter / mid assemblies from the 2.2/2.3/2.4 Veritas models sold for (excuse me while I choke on this) 45.00 + 15 shipping, they were pulls and in known working condition. The crossover networks were sold to for about the same.
I saw those Veritas assemblies and crossovers as well and wanted them. The seller only had US shipping as an option which from my past experience doesn't necessarily mean that they won't ship to Canada, but I think it is the default setting when a US-based ebay ad is posted. They also had the ability to be contacted disabled so I was SOL.



In regards to the RC base, are you referring to a driver or the bottom plinth? If you have a plinth and are interested in tracking it down and selling, please PM me. I have a damaged one on my RC30. The measurements are a bit larger than 11x7 inches. Thanks.
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post #55978 of 56049 Old 05-18-2020, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by brendelac View Post
I saw those Veritas assemblies and crossovers as well and wanted them. The seller only had US shipping as an option which from my past experience doesn't necessarily mean that they won't ship to Canada, but I think it is the default setting when a US-based ebay ad is posted. They also had the ability to be contacted disabled so I was SOL.



In regards to the RC base, are you referring to a driver or the bottom plinth? If you have a plinth and are interested in tracking it down and selling, please PM me. I have a damaged one on my RC30. The measurements are a bit larger than 11x7 inches. Thanks.
It is a plinth, and it is in a the box somewhere, mine is slightly damaged, but being towards the back i didnt swap it out, It came damaged this way from vanns in the US when they were liquidating RC series. I really am not sure where it is at this point.
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post #55979 of 56049 Old 05-18-2020, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post
It is a plinth, and it is in a the box somewhere, mine is slightly damaged, but being towards the back i didnt swap it out, It came damaged this way from vanns in the US when they were liquidating RC series. I really am not sure where it is at this point.
My damage is on the back corner as well. I had loaned them to my parents until they got some decent speakers. My dad dropped it on the concrete helping me bring them out from the house to the car. Funny side note - one of the bookshelf speakers they now have is directly behind the TV in the corner of their living room. My dad says he likes it there.
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post #55980 of 56049 Old 05-19-2020, 12:23 PM
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Anyone here rocking an Energy C-C3?

i've been using an Energy C-7/C-C1 L/C/R setup for years now and really haven't found any reason to change them as I love their sound. Saw a set of C-1s and C-3s for cheap locally so I picked those up to use as surrounds which got me thinking about the C-C3 but I've read about but never seen/heard. Anyone made the change from the C-C1? Wondering if this would be a big enough change that I should look for one.

It's in a mixed use great room that is 3200+ cu ft.
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