Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 61 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1801 of 1833 Old 12-11-2017, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry to hear about your speaker issues, Jeff.

The crossover is in two parts. One is attached to the back of the plastic terminal cup and the other is screwed into the inside bottom of the speaker. Mine is held in by a small wood screw. If you wanted to remove the inside portion, you just get in there with a screwdriver, remove the screw, and then pull the crossover out. It is built onto a small piece of wood and that's where all the electrolytic capacitors are located.

Generally, this type of capacitor would be replaced after 10-15 years but I wouldn't unless you're comfortable with soldering. There's no circuit board on this part, it's hand-build with a lot of wires and component leads running everywhere. You have to be very careful you know where everything goes and take photos before removing anything. It's not a hard job, but certainly not for everyone.

As for the terminals, I assume they were ripped out of the plastic terminal cup. I know you can get new terminals from places like Parts Express, however, it sounds like the cup itself might be damaged too.

You might post a photo of the damage. Good luck.
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post #1802 of 1833 Old 12-11-2017, 05:32 PM
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The original binding post are gold plated brass. If you want a direct replacement and your terminal cup is damaged, you need to go to eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DCM-KX-12-S...cAAOSwfrJZvuqs

The problem with the originals is that they can strip their threads if over torqued. When I did the TW7 clones, I replaced the originals with these:

https://www.alliedelec.com/superior-...-pkg/70121048/

Avoid the cheap Chinese made ones on eBay. Some are just plated white pot metal.
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post #1803 of 1833 Old 12-13-2017, 11:08 AM
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Hi Jeff,

I've attached two pictures for you of the crossover from my TW7's. The first picture is of the part of the crossover that is screwed to the inside base of the speaker. The second one is of the part of the crossover that is attached to the back of the binding post cover.

If you were to replace the capacitors you would want to replace the electrolytic caps. The ones that I used when I did mine were these:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...orf_bipol.html

The pictures that I have attached were from before I recapped the crossovers. In a couple of instances I could not find the exact same value capacitor as was originally in the crossover, so I used 2 equal value capacitors wired in parallel to give me the correct value. So for example, if I needed a 200uf cap and there were only 100uf available, I used two 100uf capacitors and wired them in parallel to achive the 200uf.

I agree with Tracy that it takes a bit of mechnical and soldering skills do do it right. But if you're pretty handy, and take your time, it is doable to do it yourself. It certainly was worth the effort to recap them. It brought out a lot more detail in the music.
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post #1804 of 1833 Old 12-17-2017, 09:36 PM
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Hey guys,

Thank you for all of the replies and details. I was finally able to find some almost identical replacement posts (see link). I will note that when they arrived, I found the anchor plate to be much thinner than pictured and than the original. I think I may pick up those ebay ones and change them out.

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...ost-red/1.html

I could probably manage the soldering job, but I may just take them out and have someone else do that work.

What is the purpose of that rotary pot-like control on the crossover board? I would probably tape those down to avoid changing factory calibration.

I love these speakers so much, I fear ever having to replace them. I wouldn't know where to begin. The only other speakers that impressed me when I bought them were over $10k...in the 1990s!

Cheers,

Jeff
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post #1805 of 1833 Old 01-02-2018, 03:14 PM
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I’m looking for a pair of the screens that the tweeters mounted to if anybody has any. They would have been used in the CX series and some of the TimeFrames. See attached photo. I don’t need the tweeters. Send me a private message if someone can help.

Thanks
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post #1806 of 1833 Old 01-03-2018, 06:55 PM
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Have any of you TimeWindow 7 lovers ever found other speakers that give you the same feeling in terms of connection with imaging and substance? I haven't listened to many high-end speakers over the past 10 or 15 years, but remember the only speakers that wowed me more when I finally settled on the TM7s were the JMlab Utopias. I believe they were in the five-figure range in the 90s, and the current models are quite expensive.
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post #1807 of 1833 Old 01-16-2018, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xraygun View Post
Have any of you TimeWindow 7 lovers ever found other speakers that give you the same feeling in terms of connection with imaging and substance? I haven't listened to many high-end speakers over the past 10 or 15 years, but remember the only speakers that wowed me more when I finally settled on the TM7s were the JMlab Utopias. I believe they were in the five-figure range in the 90s, and the current models are quite expensive.
Short answer, no, although my experience is limit.

There is a Home Theater/ high-end audio business south of me. They specialize in McIntosh, B&W, Niles, Paradigm, GoldenEar speaker, etc. A few years back I sat and listen to a set of high-end (what else does McIntosh make) speakers and was not wowed. In all fairness, I don’t remember any room treatment like I have. I’ve said before, a good speaker cannot make up for a bad room.

What I can firmly attest to is what the TimeWindows Sevens can do in my room based off of playing stereo vs. matrix decoder (Dolby Pro Logic ll, DTS Neo: 6 – Music, or Dolby Surround) music.

I recently upgraded my pre/pro from an Onkyo PR-SC5508 (a well regarded unit in it’s price range) to an Anthem AVM 60 (a highly regarded unit in it’s price range). With the Onkyo, stereo always sounded better than Dolby Pro Logic ll. The Dolby Surround mode that the Anthem features is suppose to be a substantial improvement over Pro Logic ll. If you read some of the post in other threads, there are individuals the claim that Dolby Surround breathes new life in their two channel recordings. I have no doubt that it does for them. Again, stereo, to me sounded better. Same for DTS Neo: 6 – Music.

What my take on all this is that maybe their favorable experiences are based off of what their speakers can’t do and the TW7’s can. Again, I’ve said this before also, the TW7’s can image and throw a sound field like nothing I’ve heard before. What Dolby Pro Logic ll, DTS Neo: 6 – Music, or Dolby Surround try to do is expand Stereo to Surround. They force information into the center channel and surrounds. This is beneficial if your speakers can’t image well and/or throw a decent sound field. The TimeWindows Sevens don’t need any help.

Vocals are much cleaner in stereo; sound stage is expansive, end of story.

P.S. With the Anthem and ARC I can run the Seven's full range with no subwoofer with music again.
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post #1808 of 1833 Old 01-18-2018, 07:04 PM
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Jamie,

Yes, I bought the TM7s as I was setting up a decent turntable rig. I have an Emotiva DAC and digital sources (like the Logitech Squeezebox Touch), but I paid the most attention to the analog side. I'm running a Music Hall 7 into a Monolithic phono amp & power supply to Rogue 66 tube pre-amp, and finally into a Sunfire amp. This is a bang-for-the-buck wonder for me.

Jeff
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post #1809 of 1833 Old 02-09-2018, 05:37 PM
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Hi All. Brand new to the forum here. I joined because this seems to be the most comprehensive info on DCM speakers I can find anywhere.

I am wondering if any TFv10.0 owners would be willing to weigh in with opinions on these. Specifically, if the best the TF600 in your opinion. I have the TF600 and love them, but lust after Time Windows. Alas, I am poor right now, but have found a pair of the TFV10 for dirt cheap. It's a bit of a drive and I may not be able to audition prior to purchase.

Anyone willing/able to offer their opinion on how the two compare? Or how the TFV10 compare to the Time Window series?

Thanks all. In the meantime, I'll keep reading!

Regards,

John
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post #1810 of 1833 Old 06-18-2018, 03:08 PM
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A quick question on capacitors.


A friend of mine just picked up a pair of TF-600. I am going to rebuild the crossovers for her. I was considering upgrading the Mylar capacitors to the Panasonic polypropylene ones that Steve has recommended as an upgrade, and which have been mentioned previously in this forum.


There are currently three 3.0 uf Mylar capacitors on the board. The closest I can find in the Panasonic is a 3.3 uf. So my question is, would it be suitable/noticeable to replace the 3.0's with the 3.3's? I'm afraid of getting far afield from the original specs and wrecking the nice sound these speakers put out.
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post #1811 of 1833 Old 07-07-2018, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyTW3 View Post
A quick question on capacitors.


A friend of mine just picked up a pair of TF-600. I am going to rebuild the crossovers for her. I was considering upgrading the Mylar capacitors to the Panasonic polypropylene ones that Steve has recommended as an upgrade, and which have been mentioned previously in this forum.


There are currently three 3.0 uf Mylar capacitors on the board. The closest I can find in the Panasonic is a 3.3 uf. So my question is, would it be suitable/noticeable to replace the 3.0's with the 3.3's? I'm afraid of getting far afield from the original specs and wrecking the nice sound these speakers put out.
Hi Tony,

Panasonic did make a 3.0 polypropylene, but not for general sales at the time. I had to sweet talk a sales rep to get enough "samples" for my project. I believe the number was ECWF2305HB. Personally, I would leave the 3.0 uf Mylar. I left them in my "original TW7's" along with all the other projects that I did. Steve only mention them to me because I was starting from scratch.
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post #1812 of 1833 Old 07-24-2018, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post
Hi Tony,

Panasonic did make a 3.0 polypropylene, but not for general sales at the time. I had to sweet talk a sales rep to get enough "samples" for my project. I believe the number was ECWF2305HB. Personally, I would leave the 3.0 uf Mylar. I left them in my "original TW7's" along with all the other projects that I did. Steve only mention them to me because I was starting from scratch.
Hi Jamie,

Thanks for the feedback. The part number (ECWF2305HB) you mentioned is correct. That is the same part number that I bought when I rebuilt my TW7's and/or TW3's. I got them from Mouser who was stocking them at the time. Digikey had them too but they are also sold out.

Mouser is no longer stocking and that specific capacitor and that capacitor series has been replaced by a new capacitor series (https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/3...55-1131244.pdf) which unfortunately no longer includes a 3.0 uf capacitor. So it appears that I am out of luck. So I'm going to keep the Mylar ones for now.

But just out of curiosity, what, or how much, would change by going from a 3.0 to a 3.3 uf? The reason I ask is because I have no concept of electrical engineering. I'm just a guy with solid mechanical/troubleshooting skills who can identify parts and swap them out. I have no clue what a 10% difference in capacitance would do in a crossover and I'm interested in learning.
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post #1813 of 1833 Old 07-28-2018, 09:01 AM
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Hi Jamie,

Thanks for the feedback. The part number (ECWF2305HB) you mentioned is correct. That is the same part number that I bought when I rebuilt my TW7's and/or TW3's. I got them from Mouser who was stocking them at the time. Digikey had them too but they are also sold out.

Mouser is no longer stocking and that specific capacitor and that capacitor series has been replaced by a new capacitor series (https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/3...55-1131244.pdf) which unfortunately no longer includes a 3.0 uf capacitor. So it appears that I am out of luck. So I'm going to keep the Mylar ones for now.

But just out of curiosity, what, or how much, would change by going from a 3.0 to a 3.3 uf? The reason I ask is because I have no concept of electrical engineering. I'm just a guy with solid mechanical/troubleshooting skills who can identify parts and swap them out. I have no clue what a 10% difference in capacitance would do in a crossover and I'm interested in learning.
Hello Tony,

Changing the high pass filter cap from 3.0uF to 3.3uF would lower the crossover by somewhere between 400 to 600 Hz (SWAG). As far as the ones in the time delay network, I haven’t a clue.

Steve did tell me once that most of his crossover designs could compensate for variances in components. I would still keep as close to possible to the original designs.
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post #1814 of 1833 Old 11-04-2018, 11:24 AM
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I have several pairs of various TimeWindows. I might be interested in getting into some TimeFrames, but don't really know much about the series. How do TimeFrames compare to TimeWindows? What are their similarities and differences? Are they equally capable of creating that wonderful TimeWindow soundstage??? Thanks to anyone who can help.
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post #1815 of 1833 Old 04-04-2019, 04:07 PM
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This thread has been dead for a while! Where are all the DCM fans?! Well...I picked up these TF-275's last week for $50. Feeling around the drivers through the socks...it just didn't feel right. Both speakers. They sounded ok. But it just didn't feel right under the socks. It didn't feel like my TF-600's do...with the metal grate covering the driver and tweeter assembly. So...what the heck is going on with these 275's?! These 'grills' are a mess! Just loose wire mesh screwed down over the drivers with the tweeter screwed down underneath through the ugly wire mesh! Where are the nice metal grates that are supposed to cover the drivers and tweeters? It really doesn't seem like these 275's have been tampered with before. Knocking off the wood tops and peeling down the socks I got the impression that this has never been done to these speakers before. Maybe I'm wrong and for some reason somebody went in and replaced the nice metal grates with these ugly metal mesh squares! But the nice fellow I bought them from said he was the original owner, bought brand new, and they've been in storage for about 8 years. Got the impression that he would never go in and tamper with the speakers. So...has anyone ever seen this messy of an assembly in a DCM TimeFrame before? Just doesn't seem right!
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post #1816 of 1833 Old 04-04-2019, 04:08 PM
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Sorry but I don't see a way to add pictures here. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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post #1817 of 1833 Old 04-04-2019, 04:13 PM
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Think I figured it out...
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What the!
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post #1819 of 1833 Old 04-04-2019, 04:15 PM
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Messy!
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post #1820 of 1833 Old 04-04-2019, 05:00 PM
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Well...I just found out from a Facebook vintage gear page that this is the way these TF275's were made. Apparently these were earlier TimeFrames before they cleaned up the assembly of them with the nice metal grates in other (later) models. Primarily made for Circuit City as relatively cheap speakers...around $140 each in 1990 or so. I'm just quite shocked at the rather shoddy assembly! But...they do sound good so...rock on!
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post #1821 of 1833 Old 04-05-2019, 04:56 PM
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Hi sacflies,

I have several different TimeWindows, and I've always felt they look terribly rough and utilitarian without the socks. Downright ugly! But for all that ugliness underneath, I've never heard a better sounding speaker. I suppose if someone wanted to use them without socks, with a little (maybe a lot) of imagination, they could be dressed up to look pretty nice.

You probably noticed my earlier post (right before your first one) about the difference between TimeWindows and TimeFrames, that didn't even garner a response. Can you contribute anything from your experience? I'd especially like to know what the ascending model numbers were all about. Was each model "better" than the previous, or were the higher model numbers just later productions???

Just as a side note; I recently picked up a pair of TimeWindow Sevens. I've died and gone to heaven!
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post #1822 of 1833 Old 04-05-2019, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sacflies View Post
This thread has been dead for a while! Where are all the DCM fans?! Well...I picked up these TF-275's last week for $50. Feeling around the drivers through the socks...it just didn't feel right. Both speakers. They sounded ok. But it just didn't feel right under the socks. It didn't feel like my TF-600's do...with the metal grate covering the driver and tweeter assembly. So...what the heck is going on with these 275's?! These 'grills' are a mess! Just loose wire mesh screwed down over the drivers with the tweeter screwed down underneath through the ugly wire mesh! Where are the nice metal grates that are supposed to cover the drivers and tweeters? It really doesn't seem like these 275's have been tampered with before. Knocking off the wood tops and peeling down the socks I got the impression that this has never been done to these speakers before. Maybe I'm wrong and for some reason somebody went in and replaced the nice metal grates with these ugly metal mesh squares! But the nice fellow I bought them from said he was the original owner, bought brand new, and they've been in storage for about 8 years. Got the impression that he would never go in and tamper with the speakers. So...has anyone ever seen this messy of an assembly in a DCM TimeFrame before? Just doesn't seem right!

Hey sacflies nice to see you again.
I also have 600s. Two pair.
And 350s. And TW1s.
Underneath is never great. Get rid of the junk. Replace the socks. There are threads about replacing the electrolytic caps rap on your 600s.
But the balance of most dcms is unmatched.
Nice score.

It's not how loud you can make it, it's how much of it you can make loud. -Max Headroom
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post #1823 of 1833 Old 04-05-2019, 11:28 PM
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[QUOTE=originalhifiman;57861728]Hi sacflies,

I have several different TimeWindows, and I've always felt they look terribly rough and utilitarian without the socks. Downright ugly! But for all that ugliness underneath, I've never heard a better sounding speaker. I suppose if someone wanted to use them without socks, with a little (maybe a lot) of imagination, they could be dressed up to look pretty nice.

You probably noticed my earlier post (right before your first one) about the difference between TimeWindows and TimeFrames, that didn't even garner a response. Can you contribute anything from your experience? I'd especially like to know what the ascending model numbers were all about. Was each model "better" than the previous, or were the higher model numbers just later productions???

Just as a side note; I recently picked up a pair of TimeWindow Sevens. I've died and gone to heaven![/QUOTE

I have TF 350s, TF 600s, and TW 1s.
The TF series is a flat panel type driver and the 600 series has a distinct right and left. And was a favorite of the designer. The TW series is more of an all around room filling driver.
All TF drivers are ‘time aligned ‘ to create a nice deep soundstage. Absolutely spectacular with Carver Sonic Holography.

The 7?
Keep that. They are rare.
Rebuild caps on all crossovers. Electrolytic caps need freshening.
Good luck.
Others will be here.

It's not how loud you can make it, it's how much of it you can make loud. -Max Headroom
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post #1824 of 1833 Old 04-06-2019, 08:25 AM
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Yeah, it doesn't really matter how they look underneath the sock! I was just surprised when I went inside to take a look. I don't think all of the 275's are like this though. I see pictures of some with the nice square grills. I have no idea on the order of production of the TimeFrames. I guess the 275's are an ealier model and they cleaned up the construction at some point. But they sound good...tweeters are working! Pretty good deal for $50. They fit very nicely as back surrounds along with my TF-400 side surrounds, TF-600 fronts and SurroundScape center.

Hope everyone is doing well!
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post #1825 of 1833 Old 04-06-2019, 03:40 PM
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post #1826 of 1833 Old 04-14-2019, 09:03 AM
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Dress Chrone Maze? Is that what Steve said?!
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post #1827 of 1833 Old 07-21-2019, 12:10 AM
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I've created an Official DCM KX speakers and subwoofers discussion thread and I encourage everyone who owns, uses, is knowledgeable about, and/or has questions about DCM KX speakers and/or subwoofers to use and subscribe to that thread.
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post #1828 of 1833 Old 07-26-2019, 07:50 PM
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Howdy DCM fans! I've just obtained a pair of TimeWindow 1s with a bad driver, and I've decided to part them out. That means I have THREE original Philips octagonal woofers and FOUR of the original Philips tweeters. I've got them on eBay, but can sell them direct at a lower price if you message me direct. Hopefully this will enable a few people to get theirs working again, or just stock up on parts.
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post #1829 of 1833 Old 09-08-2019, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
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Hi All. Brand new to the forum here. I joined because this seems to be the most comprehensive info on DCM speakers I can find anywhere.

I am wondering if any TFv10.0 owners would be willing to weigh in with opinions on these. Specifically, if the best the TF600 in your opinion. I have the TF600 and love them, but lust after Time Windows. Alas, I am poor right now, but have found a pair of the TFV10 for dirt cheap. It's a bit of a drive and I may not be able to audition prior to purchase.

Anyone willing/able to offer their opinion on how the two compare? Or how the TFV10 compare to the Time Window series?

Thanks all. In the meantime, I'll keep reading!

Regards,

John

TFv10.0 are much larger and dynamic. Much more bass.
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post #1830 of 1833 Old 09-10-2019, 07:33 AM
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I'm about to go look at a pair of DCM TF700's that are supposedly new in the box. This isn't my first rodeo with DCM speakers. I've owned TW1A's, TF500's, and TF700's in the past, but it's been many years since I've had a pair.

I have my doubts if they are truly new, but we'll see. The lady selling them doesn't really know the history except that they were her grandfathers who gave them to her dad. Her dad never used them, and she ended up with them when he died. My guess is that the original owner simply kept the boxes and packed them up.

In any event, I want to replace the electrolytic capacitors in the crossovers if I end up with them. Does anyone have a shopping list/part numbers for the TF700 crossovers? I saw a video and there appear to be three for each speaker.

Thanks!
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