Klipsch owner thread - Page 1854 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #55591 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Navyship View Post
Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I am running Marantez 7011 for the AVR, so I am guessing that will be more than enough to push what I have, am I right?
If those are your only 3 speakers, then definitely yes. If you have a full on 9 or 11 speaker Atmos setup, AND you want to listen loudly, it gets a little more dicey. The Marantz should be able to push 125 watts, or close to it to 3 speakers. Those speakers are pretty efficient, so that's plenty. The more speakers you have, the less power you have to spread around.
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post #55592 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Navyship View Post
Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I am running Marantez 7011 for the AVR, so I am guessing that will be more than enough to push what I have, am I right?
Rated at 125 watts/channel, the Marantz 7011 is more than adequate since typical demands on AVRs in general are under 20 watts most of the time and probably hardly exceed 50 or 60 watts. And given also that Klipsch speakers are more efficient than many brands, you're in good shape...no need to worry. You would only need more power if you listen at reference (very loud) all the time and in a very large room. Follow the suggestions given by the previous posters regarding initially setting the speakers to "small" and crossover to 80hz. These are the typical starting points and after reviewing mthomas's post...your newly acquired knowledge and your ears will guide you from there. Most of all...enjoy and have fun!

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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post #55593 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Rated at 125 watts/channel, the Marantz 7011 is more than adequate since typical demands on AVRs in general are under 20 watts most of the time and probably hardly exceed 50 or 60 watts. And given also that Klipsch speakers are more efficient than many brands, you're in good shape...no need to worry. Follow the suggestions given by the previous posters regarding initially setting the speakers to "small" and crossover to 80hz. These are the typical starting points and after reviewing mthomas's post...your newly acquired knowledge and your ears will guide you from there. Most of all...enjoy and have fun!
Oh, yeah, I forgot about the crossover, that makes the Marantz's job even easier.
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post #55594 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 02:59 PM
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I used to listen to my RP280s full range without subs for music.....but now that has changed since I have moved my subs around and added a 3rd sub for a smooth flat bass response....now I keep subs on for music.



Also switching from 80hz to 100hz xover for movies fixed a lot of my nulls/dips I had in my bass response. Its funny how moving things around and changing few settings makes it sound like you got a huge system upgrade.


Truth. I’ve also settled with a 100hz crossover all around. It fixed a null in my room too. The sound is tremendous. I love these RP280F speakers. I have four of them and two R-115SW subs combined with a Marantz 7011 AVR.
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post #55595 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 05:42 PM
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Truth. I’ve also settled with a 100hz crossover all around. It fixed a null in my room too. The sound is tremendous. I love these RP280F speakers. I have four of them and two R-115SW subs combined with a Marantz 7011 AVR.
Interesting. I’ve seen a few people in the sub forums also really liking higher crossovers. My setup is per my sig. I’ve experimented with crossovers between 60 and 90 as well as the sub distance tweak and even a little phase adjustments with the assistance of REW which helped smooth out crossover FR but still have some nulls that are just inherent to the room and my front speakers. My PC-4000 subs are obviously very capable but are both located behind me in rear corners as I get the best tactile response there. I may try bumping crossover to 100 and see how it sounds and what rew tells me. My main worry is that subs may become localizable but certainly worth trying.
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post #55596 of 58410 Old 05-03-2018, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Interesting. I’ve seen a few people in the sub forums also really liking higher crossovers. My setup is per my sig. I’ve experimented with crossovers between 60 and 90 as well as the sub distance tweak and even a little phase adjustments with the assistance of REW which helped smooth out crossover FR but still have some nulls that are just inherent to the room and my front speakers. My PC-4000 subs are obviously very capable but are both located behind me in rear corners as I get the best tactile response there. I may try bumping crossover to 100 and see how it sounds and what rew tells me. My main worry is that subs may become localizable but certainly worth trying.


You should try one sub in the front and one in the back. One on the left side in the back and one on the right side in the front.

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post #55597 of 58410 Old 05-04-2018, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by IMWhizzle View Post
You should try one sub in the front and one in the back. One on the left side in the back and one on the right side in the front.
I have had them there. They sound good but I get more impact/tactile response when both in rear corners. They still measure well in rear. Added bonus is aesthetically they look better there and my wife is happier not to see them when watching TV.
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post #55598 of 58410 Old 05-06-2018, 08:52 AM
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I have a question about ported tower speakers. I am using a pair of Klipsch R-26F's for my front left and right speakers and they are are currently at the sides of my 104" wide screen with a RC-7 flour a center. I am thinking of going to a AT screen and wonder how close I can have the towers to the wall? I am am trying to keep about 6" from for f of speaker to screen.

What are your thoughts?

Edit: I am using one 12" down firing sub with a ported front of that helps. I hope to get more subs later to help balance the room.

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post #55599 of 58410 Old 05-07-2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Navyship View Post
Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I am running Marantez 7011 for the AVR, so I am guessing that will be more than enough to push what I have, am I right?
I run a 7011 with 7II's, 64II, and 62II's. It's more than capable. I can run it at reference with little to no distortion and its ear bloody loud. An external amp might help a bit at high volumes but I haven't bought one yet because I haven't felt the need. I listen to movies between -5 to -15 and music 0 to -10. My room is 20x13x8.

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post #55600 of 58410 Old 05-07-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
I have had them there. They sound good but I get more impact/tactile response when both in rear corners. They still measure well in rear. Added bonus is aesthetically they look better there and my wife is happier not to see them when watching TV.
I bet that chess table can play itself with dual 4000's inches away
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post #55601 of 58410 Old 05-07-2018, 08:42 AM
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I bet that chess table can play itself with dual 4000's inches away
So far no broken windows or flying chess pieces but I do wonder if I pushed the system to reference what may happen. I tend to listen at more moderate levels.
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post #55602 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 05:23 PM
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so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".

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post #55603 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 06:50 PM
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so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".
You’ll need to determine exactly what material is behind the wall. If it is indeed cement/concrete, there are appropriate wall anchors available. Home Depot or Lowe’s should be able to assist with the correct anchors for literally any material. As you didn’t mention if the wall is drywall on framing with space between it and the cement, all that may be necessary are appropriate drywall anchors...nails are not appropriate for this purpose. HD should be able to help with these as well. Good luck!

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203

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post #55604 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Teremei View Post
so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".
I have mine RS-62II's on wall with single 2.5" screw in to stud and never had any issues. So if you used nail and works I will stick with it or try 1/4" or 5/16 blue concrete screws. I believe 1/4" will fit perfect.

Tapcon concrete screws from Lowes will be perfect.
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post #55605 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 07:08 PM
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I have mine RS-62II's on wall with single 2.5" screw in to stud and never had any issues. So if you used nail and works I will stick with it or try 1/4" or 5/16 blue concrete screws. I believe 1/4" will fit perfect.

Tapcon concrete screws from Lowes will be perfect.
Retro124 is correct...screws will be fine if secured into a stud. If the speakers are not mounted directly over a stud, the appropriate type anchor is necessary for security.

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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post #55606 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Teremei View Post
so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".
It sounds like you have a standard wood framed wall over a concrete wall, is this in a basement? You need to locate the world framing (structure) behind the drywall. You can knock on the drywall and listen for the difference in sound when you knock where the wood is, or you can probably see some of the drywall nail spots in the surface of the drywall. Another good way to locate the wood, wherever there is an electrical outlet, one side of that outlet is against the wood framing. Or a studfinder will locate the wood also. Even if I use a stud finder to locate the stud, I always poke a couple holes in the drywall with a nail to locate the center of the wood. A screw can hit the edge of the wood and fail. I would use screws instead of nails.
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post #55607 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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I always overdue all those do it yourself project, why? just because I want to make sure. If you tell me my DVD shelf will be fine with 2 screws I know I will use 4 just to add more holding capacity for more movies
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post #55608 of 58410 Old 05-11-2018, 08:15 PM
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I always overdue all those do it yourself project, why? just because I want to make sure. If you tell me my DVD shelf will be fine with 2 screws I know I will use 4 just to add more holding capacity for more movies
That’s exactly what responsible architects and engineers do...design for a rated working capacity and then over spec materials by 50% or more for extra margin and safety.
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post #55609 of 58410 Old 05-12-2018, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Teremei View Post
so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".
Those "EZ" drywall anchors work well also, if you want to mount something but can't hit the wood behind the drywall.
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post #55610 of 58410 Old 05-12-2018, 07:25 AM
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Those "EZ" drywall anchors work well also, if you want to mount something but can't hit the wood behind the drywall.
The 75lb capacity EZ Anchors are exactly what's holding my RS-62II's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/E-Z-Ancor-6...iABEgK2tPD_BwE
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post #55611 of 58410 Old 05-12-2018, 09:50 AM
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The 75lb capacity EZ Anchors are exactly what's holding my RS-62II's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/E-Z-Ancor-6...iABEgK2tPD_BwE
When you see them in the package they aren't very impressive, but when they're installed properly, they can hold quite a bit.
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post #55612 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 07:59 AM
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I was hoping someone could help I purchased a pair of aw650’s in the cheap and one of the woofers is seized and was hoping someone could point me to where I could find a replacement or comparable woofer to replace the bad one
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post #55613 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 08:26 AM
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I was hoping someone could help I purchased a pair of aw650’s in the cheap and one of the woofers is seized and was hoping someone could point me to where I could find a replacement or comparable woofer to replace the bad one
I looked on Ebay and found this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-Spe...EAAOSwTPBa9Rom
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post #55614 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Teremei View Post
so how do I mount the RS-42 II to the wall? I had it nail mounted and it fell and pulled the nail with it. I have 2 RS-41 II on the wall for 3 years with no problems. This is a different wall of course. It seems after 3 " there is cement so I can't go any deeper into the wall. Maybe 4". Bc when I hammer I hear a "ting".

L brackets ‘upside down’. I built a shelf around it, but the brackets themselves could work to for a more hidden approach.


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post #55615 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mons0160 View Post
L brackets ‘upside down’. I built a shelf around it, but the brackets themselves could work to for a more hidden approach.

That should be ok for that as long as you don't overload it. The bracket was ment to go down to give you more support above. Another option is to screw a 2x2 onto the wall and then build a box shelf with it open on the back and screw through the box and into the 2x2 from the bottom.

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post #55616 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 04:24 PM
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Hey guys, looking at doing my first Atmos setup in my living room. I am going for budget route but still want quality sound. I have an open concept living room so traditional surrounds wont be possible. My rears will have to be in the ceiling. My ceiling height is 8 feet. I sit about 14 feet away from my TV and about where the front speakers and subwoofer will be placed.

This is the setup I am leaning towards.
Sony STRDN1080 receiver ($300 my cost)
Rp-250f x2
Rp-250c
R-110sw
CDT-2650 C II x2 (ceiling rear surround)
R-2650 C II (ceiling atmos)

My understanding of the CDT 2650 in ceiling speaker is that it can be angled down towards me with its swivel option.

Living room: Sony 65" A8F OLED, Klipsch 5.1.2, Sony 1080 AVR, Sony X700 UHD Player, Nvidia Shield
Bedroom: Samsung 55" KS8000, Sony HT-ST5000 Dolby Atmos Soundbar
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post #55617 of 58410 Old 05-14-2018, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasfury View Post
Hey guys, looking at doing my first Atmos setup in my living room. I am going for budget route but still want quality sound. I have an open concept living room so traditional surrounds wont be possible. My rears will have to be in the ceiling. My ceiling height is 8 feet. I sit about 14 feet away from my TV and about where the front speakers and subwoofer will be placed.

This is the setup I am leaning towards.
Sony STRDN1080 receiver ($300 my cost)
Rp-250f x2
Rp-250c
R-110sw
CDT-2650 C II x2 (ceiling rear surround)
R-2650 C II (ceiling atmos)
If your personal tastes or room constraints are dictating ceiling mounted rear surrounds, it would be best to forego the rear surrounds. Proper Atmos configuration require vertical separation between the bed speakers (rear surrounds) and the overhead speakers (ceiling Atmos). Having both in the ceiling will destroy the accuracy of the intended immersive Atmos effects. As a suggestion, you may want to visit the Atmos Installation Guide on Dolby's website.

https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/do...tup/index.html

From Dolby's installation guidelines....

You'll get the best sound when the front and surround speakers are at or slightly above your ear level when you're seated. Wall-mounted surrounds can be higher, but no speakers should be higher than half the height of your wall.

As an alternative or option, is there a possibility you could place bookshelf rear surrounds on stands behind your seating at or slightly above ear level?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasfury View Post
My understanding of the CDT 2650 in ceiling speaker is that it can be angled down towards me with its swivel option.
I could be mistaken but I believe only the Klipsch CDT 3000 and 5000 series have swiveling horn tweeters.
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Last edited by gene4ht; 05-14-2018 at 06:09 PM.
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post #55618 of 58410 Old 05-15-2018, 09:33 PM
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Text messages I received from my wife today while I was out at a conference:

“Black panther on our set up. The audio is crazy!!!”

“The waterfall scene... I’m looking around like wtf“

I felt really good about things at this point as she had been skeptical about the RF7IIs at first. Then...

“I feel like our tv is too small”

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post #55619 of 58410 Old 05-16-2018, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mpirnat View Post
Text messages I received from my wife today while I was out at a conference:

“Black panther on our set up. The audio is crazy!!!”

“The waterfall scene... I’m looking around like wtf“

I felt really good about things at this point as she had been skeptical about the RF7IIs at first. Then...

“I feel like our tv is too small”

Awesome.....congrats!

Someone will be searching for a new TV or a projector/screen.
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post #55620 of 58410 Old 05-16-2018, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpirnat View Post
Text messages I received from my wife today while I was out at a conference:

“Black panther on our set up. The audio is crazy!!!”

“The waterfall scene... I’m looking around like wtf“

I felt really good about things at this point as she had been skeptical about the RF7IIs at first. Then...

“I feel like our tv is too small”

It's a good sign to upgrade after she suggests it!

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
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