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post #57811 of 58049 Old 05-24-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
I'm in the market for a set of floor standing front speakers for my home theater and am getting lost in all the speaker specs. I have a Denon AVR-X6500H (11.2 @ 140 watts per channel) receiver.


I have been comparing specs on the Klipsch Flagship Reference Series RF-7 III and the Premiere Reference Series RP-8000F and don't see a lot of difference other than power handling and cone size for a cost delta of $1,320 per speaker.


RF-7 III
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 32–25kHz +/– 3dB
SENSITIVITY 100 dB @ 2.83V / 1M
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 250W / 1000W peak
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 1300Hz


RF-8000F
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 32-25kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY 98dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 150W / 600W peak
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 1750Hz


What am I missing here? Is the RF-7 III really worth the upcharge over the RF-8000F?


Thanks
Dennis
Almost forgot that you didn't list a enter channel speaker (cc). Just to cover that base, today's HT front stage demands a CC for clean, crisp, and clear dialogue and proper panning. Many consider the CC the key or even the most important component for HT. For HT and in order of importance, most would agree it would be Center Channel...Subwoofer...Left and Right channel for a 3.1 system. The RP-504C would be a good match for the RP6000/8000.

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post #57812 of 58049 Old 05-24-2019, 04:53 PM
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R-26F vs R-620F?

I missed out on some half price deals earlier this year on R-620F; but a recent clearance deal came up for the prior generation R-26F. The R-620F's are generally well received with perhaps the most critical comment being "the R-820F's are better". I'm just trying replace the front bookshelfs in a small living room with small receiver so the 26/620 will do just fine. Just wanted to get some opinions - how are the 26F's? And any reason to hold out on a deal for the 620's? I'd probably then pair the 26F with the R-25C.

I currently have:

Klipsch RB-41 II (x4)
Klipsch RC-42 II
Klipsch KW-100
Marantz NR1509
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post #57813 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by beelzabuck View Post

So my first question is would the RP-504C match well with the RP-260F being the 504c is the newer line?

Second, if those two speakers match, would RP-260F work well as a surround as well? I know it's over kill but I can get two of those for cheaper than the comparable bookshelves. The only issue issue is how far do they have to be from the wall as surrounds? Can I have them maybe 4-6 inches since they are only on surround duty?

Also, I have an SVS PB 12 NSD as a subwoofer and using a Denon 3500H receiver.
I had RP-260f as surrounds, only a few inches from the walls. Worked great. Since you would presumably be crossing at 80 Hz, I wouldn't think the rear port would be getting much of a workout. I now have RP-280f as surrounds, and moved the RP-260f to rear.

I have never heard the newer RP series, but I think they are supposed to be very similar to the older ones.

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post #57814 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 05:28 AM
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RB-81 II - Should I upgrade?

In my home theater, my main L/R is a pair of bookshelf RB-81 II.
I'm now listening more and more to two channel music, mostly SACD's. I am using my subs with my main L/R.

My question is; if I replaced my bookshelf RB-81 II, for a pair of floor standing RP8000F (or other suggestions?), would I notice a difference? like Wow! Or, would I be wasting my money?

I'm not looking to extend the deeper lows, but mostly the mids and singers voices. I think the RB-81 II sound pretty good, but wondering if it could be fuller (looking for clear, natural, non harsh/shrill, at slightly higher listening levels)

Here's my configuration right now. I measured, there is room for the towers. I would just slightly move the subs in toward the center about 2 inches (this is only because of the tower 17" depth, the width is fine).
Also, if I do this, should I move the speakers away from the back wall a bit (toward the listener)? As you can see, I can not move them away from the side walls, at least not much.
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post #57815 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
I'm in the market for a set of floor standing front speakers for my home theater and am getting lost in all the speaker specs. I have a Denon AVR-X6500H (11.2 @ 140 watts per channel) receiver.


I have been comparing specs on the Klipsch Flagship Reference Series RF-7 III and the Premiere Reference Series RP-8000F and don't see a lot of difference other than power handling and cone size for a cost delta of $1,320 per speaker.


RF-7 III


POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 250W / 1000W peak







What am I missing here? Is the RF-7 III really worth the upcharge over the RF-8000F?


Thanks
Dennis
There is something to be said for a crossover and speakers that can handle this spec with ease. I don't really know if mine ever tests this max but I like to think some days it had to be close! And it just sounded better and better. Really clean. They really push some air in the room.
If you want reference level experience can a lot of cheaper speakers really handle that without heating up? (not talking about the 8000's, but smaller stuff.)

Music, more music.

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post #57816 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
I'm in the market for a set of floor standing front speakers for my home theater and am getting lost in all the speaker specs. I have a Denon AVR-X6500H (11.2 @ 140 watts per channel) receiver.


I have been comparing specs on the Klipsch Flagship Reference Series RF-7 III and the Premiere Reference Series RP-8000F and don't see a lot of difference other than power handling and cone size for a cost delta of $1,320 per speaker.


RF-7 III
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 32–25kHz +/– 3dB
SENSITIVITY 100 dB @ 2.83V / 1M
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 250W / 1000W peak
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 1300Hz


RF-8000F
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 32-25kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY 98dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 150W / 600W peak
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 1750Hz


What am I missing here? Is the RF-7 III really worth the upcharge over the RF-8000F?


Thanks
Dennis
Simple answer....YES, the RF7lll are world class speakers that actually play above their pay grade. If you can swing the price, they're definitely worth it.
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post #57817 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
Here's the rub that has me all over the map on this, my HT to music application is 100/0, reason is I have way too much 2CH audio equipment to even think about integrating this into my HT system. My media room as I call it is 16' X 23' with a 75/25 split between HT (Fwd wall) and 2CH (Aft wall) equipment. My 2CH system is vintage 1985 with a Sansui 160W per Ch Amp and 4 SP-X9 speakers plus 2 X R2R, turntable, Eq, Cass, 8-Track, CD, tuner ETC. My media collection consist of several 1000 albums, 8-Track, CD, R2R ETC so you get the picture.


I pretty much watch a movie and than turn around and crank up Supertramp. I do sometimes wonder how my vintage music would sound pumping through the RF-7 III vice the SP-X9's.
Do like many of us do, one system that does both. I use the same speakers for HT and 2 channel. I connect both my AVR and 2 channel pre-amp to a Niles speaker switch. It will choose whatever power supply I want to use, and send that to the speakers. Works well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
This has been my biggest Red Azz so far, nowhere in Huntsville AL can you listen to a set of RF-7 III speakers or any speakers for that matter. I'm guessing a trip to Nashville or Atlanta will be in my future.
A sound comparison works ok if both speakers are in the same room while testing. Plus they will sound different in your room.
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post #57818 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Almost forgot that you didn't list a enter channel speaker (cc). Just to cover that base, today's HT front stage demands a CC for clean, crisp, and clear dialogue and proper panning. Many consider the CC the key or even the most important component for HT. For HT and in order of importance, most would agree it would be Center Channel...Subwoofer...Left and Right channel for a 3.1 system. The RP-504C would be a good match for the RP6000/8000.
My center speaker is the RP-450C and two R-12SW subs.
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post #57819 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ceptorman View Post
Do like many of us do, one system that does both. I use the same speakers for HT and 2 channel. I connect both my AVR and 2 channel pre-amp to a Niles speaker switch. It will choose whatever power supply I want to use, and send that to the speakers. Works well.



A sound comparison works ok if both speakers are in the same room while testing. Plus they will sound different in your room.
Thanks for the tip on using a speaker switch, had not really thought about that.

On another note I did have a local AVS forum member reach out to me and offer to let me listen to his RF7 III, I'm liking the RF-7 III option more and more.
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post #57820 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 12:45 PM
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I just got an incredible deal on a set of RP-280F and a 450C for $300...even included a Yamaha receiver that I didn't really need. Speakers work perfectly and sound amazing, but the bases are chipped up. I see that they are removable...has anyone replaced them with floor spikes? If so, what are the thread size? I was looking at some from parts express and most are M6. I was also looking at the SVS Soundpath Isolation Feet...I know they are specifically for a subwoofer but I was curious how it might look/work with a tower. Thanks for the help!
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post #57821 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:04 PM
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Jdeck,
The bases are just wood...MDF probably. Just sand down and repaint...Good as new.

They are held on with wood type screws not what you are thinking like a taped hole with machine screws. There are 4 and not very big. The base is angled a bit also.

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post #57822 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:22 PM
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When I say chipped, I mean the back right corner is missing lol. So unfortunately they cannot be sanded and painted. I couldn't find any replacement, so that's why I was thinking floor spikes.
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post #57823 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:39 PM
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Mine came with spikes also but I think they go in the bottom of the base. I don't recall for sure now as I never used them. It would be quite simple to replicate one of those bases...
I think you could also do what you were asking about quite easily also. No idea if it would be cool....might be a bit tippy. Those isolators are soft.

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post #57824 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Falonious View Post
Mine came with spikes also but I think they go in the bottom of the base. I don't recall for sure now as I never used them. It would be quite simple to replicate one of those bases...
I think you could also do what you were asking about quite easily also. No idea if it would be cool....might be a bit tippy. Those isolators are soft.
Thanks Falonious for the quick replies...I'll have to remove the bases first and see what I'm working with.

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post #57825 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jdeck View Post
I just got an incredible deal on a set of RP-280F and a 450C for $300...even included a Yamaha receiver that I didn't really need. Speakers work perfectly and sound amazing, but the bases are chipped up. I see that they are removable...has anyone replaced them with floor spikes? If so, what are the thread size? I was looking at some from parts express and most are M6. I was also looking at the SVS Soundpath Isolation Feet...I know they are specifically for a subwoofer but I was curious how it might look/work with a tower. Thanks for the help!
Have you considered giving Klipsch a call for availability and pricing!

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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post #57826 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Have you considered giving Klipsch a call for availability and pricing!
They have a service manual available online showing replacement part #'s. The rubber feet are available but not the wood base.

AVR: Yamaha RX-A3070 Main: Klipsch RP280 Center: Klipsch RP-450C Surround: Klipsch RB-41 II Subwoofer: HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP
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post #57827 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDennis View Post
Thanks for the tip on using a speaker switch, had not really thought about that.

On another note I did have a local AVS forum member reach out to me and offer to let me listen to his RF7 III, I'm liking the RF-7 III option more and more.
That's great, Klipsch people are usually very helpful. I think you will like the audition.

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post #57828 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 06:39 PM
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I've been experimenting with things. I've read a ton of articles that state things like, leave your dedicated subwoofer at 120Hz, use 80Hz on all speakers and set all speakers to small, bi-amp if you are going to use full range speakers ect.

The thing is, I set the crossover on my sub channels to 100Hz because I feel that 120Hz or higher sounds bad and you can tell where it's coming from. In fact, I would drop it lower if I didn't have height channels that can't go lower than 100Hz.

I am listening at levels that cause the center channel to sound too thick. I set the center channel to small but dropped it down to 60Hz and that allows it to utilize it's full range and gets rid of that extra bass that the subwoofers were adding to things and it sounds less bass heavy and more natural.

I also set all 6 RP 8000F towers to "large" and set the sub channel to LFE+ main and then set the tower crossovers to 60Hz.

This way, all 7 main channels play naturally down to 60Hz and all 7 main channels send 60Hz and below to the dedicated subs. 6 of the 7 channels also cover 30-60Hz. (everything but the center channel.)

To me this sounds the best for music and movies now that I have a standard crossover of 60Hz for all speakers going to the dedicated subs.

My question is this, I have read that using full range on large speakers will cause the amp to run out of gas and sound quality will suffer as a result. My Denon amplifier has a bar that shows how much power it's using and it never goes over half way up. I have noticed no difference in quality by setting my crossovers lower or allowing my towers to run in full range. Of course, if I was using larger speakers that can handle 250 watts, I would need to bi amp them but am I correct in what I am hearing? Should I have quality loss by running 6 8000F's in full range mode? They are efficient speakers and I don't listen at reference levels. Usually I have the volume up to 70 but some of my speakers have -7db settings in the amp. Just curious, I would like to learn a thing or two.

Here is another picture of the front of my setup. 2X 8000F's, RP 504c and 2X 10 inch subs, on a 65 Inch Sony Z9D panel. I'm using 2X 15 inch subs and 4X RP8000F's in the rear. Amplifier is Denon 6300H with 140 watts X11 channels. Thanks for any advice in advance.
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post #57829 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 07:12 PM
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You're probably never pushing more than 10, maybe 20 watts to any of those speakers at your listening levels and that's only at dynamic peaks. You're not losing anything.
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post #57830 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 08:12 PM
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So I just took advantage of a crazy deal on some new RP-280FA towers - only they're cherry. No big deal, I thought - until I went looking for the RP-450C (which I believe is the matching center, right?), only to mostly come up short.

I guess my questions are this:

1. IS the 450-C the matching center? Do I have that right?
2. I know the RP-504C is technically the "new" version of this. Would it sound very strange to just get that instead, as I don't have to worry about it permanently disappearing on me anytime soon and might be able to find it for a deal?
3. Likewise, the 440C is pretty readily available in cherry. Is that something I should consider or no?

Basically, what is the lesser of two evils if I'm unable to get the 450C in cherry. Get the newer one, or the "not quite as good one" from the same year? Or does literally none of this matter at all and I'll never know the difference one way or the other?
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post #57831 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSpan View Post
You're probably never pushing more than 10, maybe 20 watts to any of those speakers at your listening levels and that's only at dynamic peaks. You're not losing anything.
Awesome, I couldn't hear any loss of quality and the amp is showing peaks at 50% tops. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy. I'm sitting exactly 8 feet away from all 6 towers which are all placed in perfect geometry from my sitting position. The center channel is about 7 feet from me. I have turned it up to reference levels and it's way too loud at that distance lol. I'm glad to know that I have the power and speaker quality to handle whatever I throw at it in my home. Some of these online articles I have read are written for people with much larger rooms and $10,000 speakers I think.
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post #57832 of 58049 Old 05-25-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Almost forgot that you didn't list a enter channel speaker (cc). Just to cover that base, today's HT front stage demands a CC for clean, crisp, and clear dialogue and proper panning. Many consider the CC the key or even the most important component for HT. For HT and in order of importance, most would agree it would be Center Channel...Subwoofer...Left and Right channel for a 3.1 system. The RP-504C would be a good match for the RP6000/8000.
We all know the best center for this case is another RF-7iii
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post #57833 of 58049 Old 05-26-2019, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveLilley View Post
So I just took advantage of a crazy deal on some new RP-280FA towers - only they're cherry. No big deal, I thought - until I went looking for the RP-450C (which I believe is the matching center, right?), only to mostly come up short.

I guess my questions are this:

1. IS the 450-C the matching center? Do I have that right?
2. I know the RP-504C is technically the "new" version of this. Would it sound very strange to just get that instead, as I don't have to worry about it permanently disappearing on me anytime soon and might be able to find it for a deal?
3. Likewise, the 440C is pretty readily available in cherry. Is that something I should consider or no?

Basically, what is the lesser of two evils if I'm unable to get the 450C in cherry. Get the newer one, or the "not quite as good one" from the same year? Or does literally none of this matter at all and I'll never know the difference one way or the other?
Since you'll presumably be crossing the center at 80 Hz, it would probably be next to impossible to tell the difference between the 440c and the 450c in most cases. The 450c probably has higher limits power and volume wise, but I doubt it sounds much, if any different. Everyone that has the 440c that has chimed in here on this thread in the past seems to have been satisfied with it.

I'm under the impression the newer RP sound mostly like the older RP, so the RP-504c is probably a solid match, but I've never actually had anyone confirm that the two different RP series sound the same.

I'd probably get the 440c, it has gotten very good reviews on both Amazon and Crutchfield.

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post #57834 of 58049 Old 05-26-2019, 12:34 PM
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I know most of you keep recommending 80hz xovers for the subs and speakers which is a good starting point....however I think you all should try 90 or 100hz to see if you like it. Subwoofers will handle those frequencies better also. And bass localization depends on where subs are positioned and which subs you have. Experiment and enjoy!

And if you guys have REW....use that to help determine the best xover since xover isn't limited based on your speaker capabilities but your room as well.
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post #57835 of 58049 Old 05-27-2019, 07:31 AM
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Hello. I was wondering if I can get some advice from you all. I just purchased RP-8000F and RP-504C brand new for about $1050 which seemed too good to pass up. Now I am trying to decide what do do for surrounds. My room size is 15' x 19' and is open in the back so I will never be able to do rears.

I can get two RP-5000F for about $$450 plus tax which may be overkill or the RP-600M for a little more.

I can also get RS-502S for about $480 plus tax.

So, I guess my main question is do most prefer the direct radiating of the bookshelf or tower vs the wide range of the surrounds?

Also, I have an SVS PB 12 NSD as a subwoofer and using a Denon 3500H receiver.

Epson 3500 Projector, Denon AVR-X3500H, Klipsch RP-8000F, RP-504c, RP-6000F, RP-5000F and SVS PB12-NSD in HT room
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post #57836 of 58049 Old 05-27-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by beelzabuck View Post
Hello. I was wondering if I can get some advice from you all. I just purchased RP-8000F and RP-504C brand new for about $1050 which seemed too good to pass up. Now I am trying to decide what do do for surrounds. My room size is 15' x 19' and is open in the back so I will never be able to do rears.

I can get two RP-5000F for about $$450 plus tax which may be overkill or the RP-600M for a little more.

I can also get RS-502S for about $480 plus tax.

So, I guess my main question is do most prefer the direct radiating of the bookshelf or tower vs the wide range of the surrounds?

Also, I have an SVS PB 12 NSD as a subwoofer and using a Denon 3500H receiver.
Tower/direct radiating are fine, as long as they aren't too close to you. I use towers all around, and it's great, but they are all about 9.5 feet away. Certainly no reason to get the 600m if they cost more, especially since you'll also have to get stands for them.
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post #57837 of 58049 Old 05-27-2019, 09:17 AM
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Any one have any thoughts on whether it is worth paying $200 more for a pair of RP-502s vs a pair of RP-250s? Thanks

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
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post #57838 of 58049 Old 05-27-2019, 09:23 AM
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Tower/direct radiating are fine, as long as they aren't too close to you. I use towers all around, and it's great, but they are all about 9.5 feet away. Certainly no reason to get the 600m if they cost more, especially since you'll also have to get stands for them.
My side listening position is 6 foot away and I currently have Infinity Reference 6.5 inch woofers there but sending those back due to the deal I got on the Klipsch. I had Axiom QS8's as surrounds before that but my understanding is people are now saying direct radiating are a better option, especially for Atmos. I would only be able to do atmos upfront or sides though so not sure if it as issue. I think the towers may look good as long as I don't need to keep them far out from the wall. I think I got a good deal on everything. 2 RP-8000F, 2 RP-5000F and RP-504C for about $1565 including tax.
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Last edited by beelzabuck; 05-27-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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post #57839 of 58049 Old 05-28-2019, 07:29 AM
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Hi

I do have RP-260F speakers. They are currently connected to Home theatre AV receiver(Marantz).
Planning to get an amplifier + DAC system to play HiRes music, but would rather bypass the AV receiver.


There are four binding posts behind each speaker, one pair is used by the AV receiver, can I use the other pair to connect the amplifier directly. So each speaker will be connected to the receiver and the Amplifier?
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post #57840 of 58049 Old 05-28-2019, 08:26 AM
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Hi

I do have RP-260F speakers. They are currently connected to Home theatre AV receiver(Marantz).
Planning to get an amplifier + DAC system to play HiRes music, but would rather bypass the AV receiver.


There are four binding posts behind each speaker, one pair is used by the AV receiver, can I use the other pair to connect the amplifier directly. So each speaker will be connected to the receiver and the Amplifier?
No, normally, this is for Bi-Amping (eliminating the internal crossover), separate amp for woofer and tweeter. Unless, that's what you have in mind?

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