Revel Owners Thread - Page 493 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14761 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Are those Salon2's for rears. Looks like you and @gsr are part of a select group.
I have lowly Studio2's for my rears.

Are you using anything else to tune those four subs?

- Rich

Don’t feel bad, I’m using the lowly Studio2s as my main fronts!
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post #14762 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Spinaker01 View Post
Don’t feel bad, I’m using the lowly Studio2s as my main fronts!

With the subs you have listed, I bet the Studio2's sound just fine. Even better than just fine, lol...

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post #14763 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Blame Kal, he put the bug in me to try more multichannel music, though I still have very little content.
Me neither, and while they mostly sound really good and I'd like to have more, I also enjoy listening to my stereo content through PLIIx (Music). Although that feature will disappear from your Emotiva processor once it is upgraded to Atmos, if not already the case.

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Now, my components have changed and/or moved around again in the past few months, so I am using the space under the TV mainly as storage for little-used remotes and such. So I could raise the Voice2 as you suggest and that makes a lot of sense. I simply did not think of it since everything has been stable and running for a couple of years now. Never occurred to me that I could raise it now that I no longer need to see the components behind it.

Or drop the TV to the top of the console; could have done that this afternoon when both boys were home (a rare treat!) if only I'd seen this earlier! But, I had better things to do, for once.
I agree that looking up at a TV is undesirable. I'm continually dismayed to see TVs above fireplaces . OTOH in a bedroom, where one is lying down, a higher screen is a great option. Anyway, if you're comfortable with the current screen height, it will not improve the "movie experience" to lower it.

Before going to all the trouble of re-running Dirac, could try just raising the speakers to see if the imaging change is noticeable and beneficial. If not, as you were!

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post #14764 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Blame Kal, he put the bug in me to try more multichannel music, though I still have very little content.
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Me neither, and while they mostly sound really good and I'd like to have more...........................
Why is that?

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post #14765 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
Why is that?
Why would I like to have more music in surround format? Two reasons. I like the spatial effect -- much better than any upmixer can provide. And all the 5.1 recordings I have were delivered in some form of high-res format -- be it 24/48, 24/96, or SACD. The mixes are clearly different, exhibiting greater detail.

Maybe you are asking why I don't have more such recordings. That's due to their general dearth. Not sure why we cannot find all these out-of-print DVD-A recordings on a retail file service somewhere.

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post #14766 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Me neither, and while they mostly sound really good and I'd like to have more, I also enjoy listening to my stereo content through PLIIx (Music). Although that feature will disappear from your Emotiva processor once it is upgraded to Atmos, if not already the case.

I agree that looking up at a TV is undesirable. I'm continually dismayed to see TVs above fireplaces . OTOH in a bedroom, where one is lying down, a higher screen is a great option. Anyway, if you're comfortable with the current screen height, it will not improve the "movie experience" to lower it.

Before going to all the trouble of re-running Dirac, could try just raising the speakers to see if the imaging change is noticeable and beneficial. If not, as you were!
No plans to upgrade to Atmos, not really a good room for it, and no real desire. Still waiting for the v3 video board to get all the bugs out, and might as well wait to see if the format survives. Plus I still think few 7.1 movies really use the surround speakers much.

Got into the room tonight and don't want to lower the TV; the middle of the screen is actually about eye level. The camera angle is a bit misleading; the center is a little low, but sitting on the couch I can only raise it maybe 4"~6". I have some styrofoam packing blocks I can use to raise it so will probably give it a go (sometime) and see if it helps.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #14767 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
Why is that?
Lack of available content? Where do you purchase multichannel recordings? I'm lazy and time-constrained so go mostly to Amazon. The past few times I've tried to pick up some of your recommendations or others I've thought about getting (like Dark Side of the Moon) they've been out of stock. I have checked out Acoustic Sounds a time or two but their prices were a bit high (e.g. $50 for DSOTM when I last checked, though their catalog listed it for $35, but Amazon and B&N were out so maybe low stock?)

I do wish there was a simple way to rip and play. I have moved my CD collection to my NAS. I have found some of the hybrid SACDs I cannot rip, but may be a SW problem with my PC.

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post #14768 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Why would I like to have more music in surround format? Two reasons. I like the spatial effect -- much better than any upmixer can provide. And all the 5.1 recordings I have were delivered in some form of high-res format -- be it 24/48, 24/96, or SACD. The mixes are clearly different, exhibiting greater detail.
Of course.

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Maybe you are asking why I don't have more such recordings. That's due to their general dearth. Not sure why we cannot find all these out-of-print DVD-A recordings on a retail file service somewhere.
Ah. I have closets filled with shopping bags full of MCH discs. All ripped and on my NAS.

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post #14769 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Lack of available content? Where do you purchase multichannel recordings? I'm lazy and time-constrained so go mostly to Amazon. The past few times I've tried to pick up some of your recommendations or others I've thought about getting (like Dark Side of the Moon) they've been out of stock. I have checked out Acoustic Sounds a time or two but their prices were a bit high (e.g. $50 for DSOTM when I last checked, though their catalog listed it for $35, but Amazon and B&N were out so maybe low stock?)
You are late. I bought them early.

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I do wish there was a simple way to rip and play. I have moved my CD collection to my NAS. I have found some of the hybrid SACDs I cannot rip, but may be a SW problem with my PC.
I've ripped tons of them and only a very few DVD-As have me stymied. SACDs? No problem so far.

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post #14770 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 09:37 PM
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Question for Harman experts. I followed John’s blind comparison between the JBL Synthesis M2s and the Salon Ultima 2s so I know the Revels take the edge in two channel.
However, what would be better for a strictly home theater system, Salon 2s or M2s. Assume 4 subwoofers and an acoustic transparent screen. Also assume room is big enough for 7 of each to breathe.
My assumption based on what I have read and my experience with hearing JBL Synthesis Array 1400s with twin JL 212s is high efficiency would have the nod. Granted, either would be more than amazing but which would rule?


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post #14771 of 16129 Old 03-24-2019, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jima4a View Post
Question for Harman experts. I followed John’s blind comparison between the JBL Synthesis M2s and the Salon Ultima 2s so I know the Revels take the edge in two channel.
However, what would be better for a strictly home theater system, Salon 2s or M2s. Assume 4 subwoofers and an acoustic transparent screen. Also assume room is big enough for 7 of each to breathe.
My assumption based on what I have read and my experience with hearing JBL Synthesis Array 1400s with twin JL 212s is high efficiency would have the nod. Granted, either would be more than amazing but which would rule?
Given how the Salon2 was definitively favored over the M2, if you can't listen to them yourself to compare, I don't see any reason to take the risk with the M2.

While the M2 is said to be designed for high volume, the Salon2 has never felt strained at any volume I've wanted to listen at. Since you'll be using 4 subs to take the bass load off, I would think that any volume the Salon2 cannot handle would be hazardous to your hearing.

I know the M2's spinorama measurements look great, at least as good as the Salon2's, but they don't tell the full story in sound quality. I have not heard the M2 except in passing, but have heard the 705P and other speakers that have similarly excellent on and off axis measurements side by side with the Salon2. None of them sound as good as the Salon2. For example, the 705P, while excellent for a small box loudspeaker, sounds a little like one.

Also note that the JBL Array line does not measure or sound the same as the newer JBL and Revel lines. They sound more colored. I wouldn't use them as a reference for what the M2 sounds like.
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post #14772 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 02:30 AM
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^^^ Sorry, I should have stated this was a hypothetical question and I understand I am on the Revel forum but this was meant in all seriousness. Does JBL (and thus Harman) have anything better than the Salon 2 for home theater? My assumption was that could be the M2s.


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post #14773 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 04:42 AM
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I was not there (really wish I could have been!) IIRC the sonic differences were almost a dead heat with Salon2's having a slight edge. It's like debating 9.9 vs. 9.91 on a 10-point scale.

I have not heard M2's but have heard other JBL (and many other) horn-loaded speakers over the years. Salon2's are rated at 86.4 dB/2.83V/m and the M2's 92 dB/W/m. Assuming the same impedances (not likely but for purposes of comparison) then that ~6 dB difference means the M2 requires ~1/4 the power to play at the same volume as the Salon2 (0.275x, or inverted the Salon2 requires 3.63x the power of the M2 to play as loudly). That alone is a pretty significant advantage for HT (though chances are someone looking at these options isn't going to be put off by their power requirements). Horns tend to provide lower distortion and greater perceived dynamics (though I strongly suspect most of the latter is perceptual bias). Revel has the edge in aesthetics for most folk, but in a theater system aesthetics are probably secondary. With HT there is the visual aspect so absolute sonic perfection may not be as critical. Read John's shoot-out write-up carefully and post your question in the M2 thread as well if you have not already to help get both sides.

The Salon2 is an awesome speaker for anything and is doing fantastic in my system where it handles movies and music. That said, if I was building a purely HT system, I would probably choose the M2, especially if I was able to use them all the way around. I would not say the M2 is "better", just a little different, and perhaps biased more toward the HT type of system.

One caveat: I've read that the M2 system's default amplifiers can be loud so you may need to consider amplifier choice carefully if they are in the same room as the listeners.

Interesting question; hopefully we'll hear from those who were there. - Don
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post #14774 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
You are late. I bought them early.

I've ripped tons of them and only a very few DVD-As have me stymied. SACDs? No problem so far.
Always a day late and a dollar short, that's me...

I'm using dBpoweramp and sometimes the SW that came with my notebook. Neither appears to rip SACDs. I know you have told me before what SW to use; I need to dig back into it. Then figure out a streaming solution; I had thought to see if my Oppo would work for it. My SONOS:Connect only does stereo (and not even hi-res, though I am not terribly concerned about that since I've only ripped CDs so far).

Anyway we're off-topic so I'll go back and do a little legwork -- when I have time!

Back to work... - Don

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post #14775 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 04:49 AM
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Given how the Salon2 was definitively favored over the M2, if you can't listen to them yourself to compare, I don't see any reason to take the risk with the M2.

While the M2 is said to be designed for high volume, the Salon2 has never felt strained at any volume I've wanted to listen at. Since you'll be using 4 subs to take the bass load off, I would think that any volume the Salon2 cannot handle would be hazardous to your hearing.

I know the M2's spinorama measurements look great, at least as good as the Salon2's, but they don't tell the full story in sound quality. I have not heard the M2 except in passing, but have heard the 705P and other speakers that have similarly excellent on and off axis measurements side by side with the Salon2. None of them sound as good as the Salon2. For example, the 705P, while excellent for a small box loudspeaker, sounds a little like one.

Also note that the JBL Array line does not measure or sound the same as the newer JBL and Revel lines. They sound more colored. I wouldn't use them as a reference for what the M2 sounds like.
I have both the M2/Sub18 and Salon 2. I purchased the Salon 2 (for a second listening room) after the results of the “shootout”, and no matter what I do, I can not make them achieve the magic of the M2. The Salons are driven by a pair of Classe 400 watt monoblocks, so they seem to have adequate power. The Salons are fine speakers, they just do not excell when compared to the M2, at least in my setups.
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post #14776 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
I'm using dBpoweramp and sometimes the SW that came with my notebook. Neither appears to rip SACDs. I know you have told me before what SW to use; I need to dig back into it. Then figure out a streaming solution; I had thought to see if my Oppo would work for it. My SONOS:Connect only does stereo (and not even hi-res, though I am not terribly concerned about that since I've only ripped CDs so far).
Spend a bit of time looking through the following thread:


Everything you want to know about ripping SACD's.


If you happen to have an Oppo BDP-10x series player (103, 103D, 105, or 105D), then you have what you need for both ripping and playback. But once you get your SACD's ripped, there are plenty of ways to listen to the results.
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post #14777 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 08:27 AM
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I'm using dBpoweramp and sometimes the SW that came with my notebook. Neither appears to rip SACDs.
Nope. None of that will do.
Quote:
I know you have told me before what SW to use; I need to dig back into it.
gsr has already covered that.
Quote:
Then figure out a streaming solution; I had thought to see if my Oppo would work for it. My SONOS:Connect only does stereo (and not even hi-res, though I am not terribly concerned about that since I've only ripped CDs so far).
As a temporary solution, yes, the recent Oppos will work for that but their UI is terrible. Which Oppo do you have?

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post #14778 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 02:58 PM
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Something is defective?
One more piece of info: The F206 and amp are relieved of their duties below ~80Hz as I use a Linkwitz-Riley 24dB/oct cross-over sending 80Hz and down to a SS stereo amp driving two large passive subs. Both the B&K EX4420 and the Musical Fidelity M6PRX reveal this treble anomaly in the F206. Both a CAT SL-1 MkIII and an Audible Illusions Modulus 3a have been used. The latest is a Rogue Audio RP-1. I suspected every piece of gear I owned. Headphones with separate headphone amp told me this narrow treble-band distortion/break-up is not in the Source-to-Preamp output chain. Sources are CD, HDCD and LP.


I don't need concert volume. It's just a mid-60s living room. The subs deliver all the authority most people could need. The F206 pair were researched and bought for their much-lauded finesse. I thought they would loaf with near-nil to do <80Hz.


New tweeters and new midrange drivers were installed and the unclean treble remained. What's left? Internal passive cross-over...? I'm all ears.

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post #14779 of 16129 Old 03-25-2019, 04:45 PM
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One more piece of info: The F206 and amp are relieved of their duties below ~80Hz as I use a Linkwitz-Riley 24dB/oct cross-over sending 80Hz and down to a SS stereo amp driving two large passive subs. Both the B&K EX4420 and the Musical Fidelity M6PRX reveal this treble anomaly in the F206. Both a CAT SL-1 MkIII and an Audible Illusions Modulus 3a have been used. The latest is a Rogue Audio RP-1. I suspected every piece of gear I owned. Headphones with separate headphone amp told me this narrow treble-band distortion/break-up is not in the Source-to-Preamp output chain. Sources are CD, HDCD and LP. I don't need concert volume. It's just a mid-60s living room. The subs deliver all the authority most people could need. The F206 pair were researched and bought for their much-lauded finesse. I thought they would loaf with near-nil to do <80Hz. New tweeters and new midrange drivers were installed and the unclean treble remained. What's left? Internal passive cross-over...? I'm all ears.
I would get a sine wave oscillator and do a slow sweep to find the frequency (or frequencies) where distortion occurs. I have used test CD's with sweep tones and band limited pink noise to find distortion problems. I also had an HP sine wave oscillator so I could control the rate of sweep and focus in on exact frequencies.

I found a distortion problem once using band limited pink noise. LF was getting to a tweeter in one speaker. I was able to find a loose speaker wire connection on a crossover board, problem solved. I also used a sine wave sweep to locate problems with loose cabinet construction, loose drivers, bad drivers etc. Sweeping from less than 20 Hz to around 20 KHz tells you a lot. You have to control level while doing the sweep to avoid damage to the drivers and your ears. You replaced drivers, it's always good to check if all screws are tightened to spec (not sure exact torque). Don't over tighten!

Do both speakers have the same identical problem? It would be rare and odd unless you got a pair that have identical crossover board component problems. Test one speaker at a time using the cleanest path you can, eliminate everything but the source, preamp and power amp. Use the same channel (preamp and power amp) to test both speakers. Are you using the top set of binding posts as indicated in the manual? Are the binding straps tight on both sets of of binding posts? When testing, be cautious to control level to protect the drivers and your ears. Speaker testing by ear can be painful, you may need to play HF tones at loud levels to find the problem. If you can determine there is distortion at a certain frequency, you will need to get to crossover boards and check connections. At some point, you may need to have them repaired by an authorized service center. I have not dealt with that, they may need to get shipped to Revel for repair. Good luck troubleshooting. Do all (or many) recordings cause the problem? What is your source (CD etc)? Are you sure the source of the distortion is not the source material itself?
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post #14780 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 05:24 AM
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^"Are you using the top set of binding posts as indicated in the manual? Are the binding straps tight on both sets of of binding posts?"

Funny you should bring this up.

After seeing this in the manual, I contacted Revel for an explanation. If the binding straps are tightly in place, what difference could it make? The customer service reply: "... either wiring method is completely fine."

Is there something here I've missed?

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #14781 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 06:13 AM
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^"Are you using the top set of binding posts as indicated in the manual? Are the binding straps tight on both sets of of binding posts?" Funny you should bring this up.
After seeing this in the manual, I contacted Revel for an explanation. If the binding straps are tightly in place, what difference could it make? The customer service reply: "... either wiring method is completely fine." Is there something here I've missed?

The explanation I read somewhere is the top set feeds the midrange driver and tweeter where more detail is.

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post #14782 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
The explanation I read somewhere is the top set feeds the midrange driver and tweeter where more detail is.
I heard that as well but when pressed, Revel Customer Support backed off. That recommendation is in the owner's manual (page 8) but is there science to support it? Any double blind listening tests to prove it has value?

IMO this recommendation should be removed from the Owner's Manual unless it has been substantiated.

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #14783 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
I heard that as well but when pressed, Revel Customer Support backed off. That recommendation is in the owner's manual (page 8) but is there science to support it? Any double blind listening tests to prove it has value?

IMO this recommendation should be removed from the Owner's Manual unless it has been substantiated.
IF the binding straps aren't making good contact, it could definitely make a difference, but that would just mean the lower frequencies are getting compromised rather than the mid and upper frequencies and that a better binding strap or binding post is needed.
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post #14784 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 08:21 PM
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Touching base, busy week.. Thank all of you for the responses here and in private! My old Oppo 83 died years ago and I stupidly did not get it repaired. I will research and see what I can do with all of the info. Work and Life got a little crazy (happens every time I decide to start a project, natch).

Back on-topic: most of the power goes to the bass, so generally I would place a single set of speaker cables on the bass terminals, but in practice the resistance of a decent metal jumper should be so low it doesn't matter. Most of the problems with jumpers I have seen have been when they were loose or missing. Oh, one other event comes to mind: a loose jumper caused strange sounds and some amplifier issues for a customer, so I tightened them down (service call, techie days). Not sure how they got loose but no biggie. The next day he called and said the speaker quit working. I went back and the terminals were mangled. I looked at them, looked at him sort of WTH?, and he admitted he took pliers to them to make sure they stayed tight on the advice of one of his buddies who came over the previous night. He said he never could get them tight... Sure enough, he spun the backing nuts loose with a pair of vise grips and managed to rip the wires off the jacks inside the speaker. That wasn't enough; when he spun the wire and ripped it away, it broke the crossover board inside the speaker to which it was attached. How to turn a simple call into an hour of rework...
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post #14785 of 16129 Old 03-26-2019, 09:41 PM
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One more piece of info: The F206 and amp are relieved of their duties below ~80Hz as I use a Linkwitz-Riley 24dB/oct cross-over sending 80Hz and down to a SS stereo amp driving two large passive subs. Both the B&K EX4420 and the Musical Fidelity M6PRX reveal this treble anomaly in the F206. Both a CAT SL-1 MkIII and an Audible Illusions Modulus 3a have been used. The latest is a Rogue Audio RP-1. I suspected every piece of gear I owned. Headphones with separate headphone amp told me this narrow treble-band distortion/break-up is not in the Source-to-Preamp output chain. Sources are CD, HDCD and LP.


I don't need concert volume. It's just a mid-60s living room. The subs deliver all the authority most people could need. The F206 pair were researched and bought for their much-lauded finesse. I thought they would loaf with near-nil to do <80Hz.


New tweeters and new midrange drivers were installed and the unclean treble remained. What's left? Internal passive cross-over...? I'm all ears.
You didn't, by any chance, connect one of your new drivers out of phase?

Why do I mention that you ask? Well, My friend who has the $600k system out west is coming back here in a couple of weeks to hang out for a few days here and then we're driving to AXPONA. Given that his system is 171x more expensive than my lowly Hegel integrated and ESLs, and me being the show off that I can be, and also given that I've sometimes absolutely driven the ever-lovin chit out of my speakers, I decided to threat them to new woofers. The ESL panel is said to be just about indestructible so I wasn't much worried about that. Well, in re the woofers, the connectors only fit one way. Fat terminal is the hot and narrow terminal is the ground, but sure enough, somehow I managed.... I replace only one at a time and then give it a try. Holy chit I thought I had vertigo. It sounded confused and awful. Thought about it for a while and thought either the replacement woofer has to be wired backwards or I did a boo boo. Well, to save time, always check the simple, obvious things first. Sure enough (I hang my head in shame) I did it.
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post #14786 of 16129 Old 03-27-2019, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotth3886 View Post
You didn't, by any chance, connect one of your new drivers out of phase?

Why do I mention that you ask? Well, My friend who has the $600k system out west is coming back here in a couple of weeks to hang out for a few days here and then we're driving to AXPONA. Given that his system is 171x more expensive than my lowly Hegel integrated and ESLs, and me being the show off that I can be, and also given that I've sometimes absolutely driven the ever-lovin chit out of my speakers, I decided to threat them to new woofers. The ESL panel is said to be just about indestructible so I wasn't much worried about that. Well, in re the woofers, the connectors only fit one way. Fat terminal is the hot and narrow terminal is the ground, but sure enough, somehow I managed.... I replace only one at a time and then give it a try. Holy chit I thought I had vertigo. It sounded confused and awful. Thought about it for a while and thought either the replacement woofer has to be wired backwards or I did a boo boo. Well, to save time, always check the simple, obvious things first. Sure enough (I hang my head in shame) I did it.

An incorrectly wired (inverted polarity) driver would not cause distortion like jimadams is describing.
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post #14787 of 16129 Old 03-27-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
An incorrectly wired (inverted polarity) driver would not cause distortion like jimadams is describing.

I thought I had a lot more wrong than just distortion !!!
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post #14788 of 16129 Old 03-27-2019, 03:31 PM
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Facebook users can see a lot of pics/vids on the Revel page/“story”
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post #14789 of 16129 Old 03-27-2019, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
I would get a sine wave oscillator and do a slow sweep to find the frequency (or frequencies) where distortion occurs. I have used test CD's with sweep tones and band limited pink noise to find distortion problems. I also had an HP sine wave oscillator so I could control the rate of sweep and focus in on exact frequencies.

I found a distortion problem once using band limited pink noise. LF was getting to a tweeter in one speaker. I was able to find a loose speaker wire connection on a crossover board, problem solved. I also used a sine wave sweep to locate problems with loose cabinet construction, loose drivers, bad drivers etc. Sweeping from less than 20 Hz to around 20 KHz tells you a lot. You have to control level while doing the sweep to avoid damage to the drivers and your ears. You replaced drivers, it's always good to check if all screws are tightened to spec (not sure exact torque). Don't over tighten!

Do both speakers have the same identical problem? It would be rare and odd unless you got a pair that have identical crossover board component problems. Test one speaker at a time using the cleanest path you can, eliminate everything but the source, preamp and power amp. Use the same channel (preamp and power amp) to test both speakers. Are you using the top set of binding posts as indicated in the manual? Are the binding straps tight on both sets of of binding posts? When testing, be cautious to control level to protect the drivers and your ears. Speaker testing by ear can be painful, you may need to play HF tones at loud levels to find the problem. If you can determine there is distortion at a certain frequency, you will need to get to crossover boards and check connections. At some point, you may need to have them repaired by an authorized service center. I have not dealt with that, they may need to get shipped to Revel for repair. Good luck troubleshooting. Do all (or many) recordings cause the problem? What is your source (CD etc)? Are you sure the source of the distortion is not the source material itself?
I wrote a long response yesterday but this site crashed and I lost it all. So here is the shorter version. The F206 has one set of terminals so there's no upper or lower. I tightened the new drivers' mounting screws as I reckoned I had found them when I removed them. I was wary of distorting their frames. I always got the wide and narrow push-on wire terminators onto the speaker tabs correctly and I never got that weird phasey, out-of-phase weirdness. I don't have that pink noise test CD you mention but do have a function generator. I have swept them before but will do again, one channel at a time. My sense is that the unclean is on the right. The scope shot I posted above was a music transient that clipped the B&K amp's +/- 62V power supply. It's a captured instant from the Boston 1st album and at about 2KHz. That's in the neighborhood of the harshness or distress or that uncleanness that makes one blink and wonder WTH was that crap just now. Yes, I've had and played the CD and the LP many times over the decades so this is new to me. The problem is source and media independent. Seems I need to find where the x-over is as another check in a box.

Jim Adams
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post #14790 of 16129 Old 03-28-2019, 08:36 AM
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Always a day late and a dollar short, that's me...

I'm using dBpoweramp and sometimes the SW that came with my notebook. Neither appears to rip SACDs. I know you have told me before what SW to use; I need to dig back into it. Then figure out a streaming solution; I had thought to see if my Oppo would work for it. My SONOS:Connect only does stereo (and not even hi-res, though I am not terribly concerned about that since I've only ripped CDs so far).

Anyway we're off-topic so I'll go back and do a little legwork -- when I have time!

Back to work... - Don
Hi Don - The process described in this site (if you get one of the listed Blu Ray players) is pretty easy to follow. https://hifihaven.org/index.php?thre...y-player.3652/

Dave
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