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post #16681 of 18446 Old 01-01-2020, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KSpan View Post
I think you'll achieve those goals with the Revels, though the RP series is nice in its own right With regards to timbre-matching no, I don't detect any appreciable negative impact or audible difference with actual content.
Thanks for your input on the Revel line. I appreciate your help!
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post #16682 of 18446 Old 01-01-2020, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by russ_777 View Post
Power Needs for Salon2's

I've been driving my Salon2's since I got them ~15 months ago with 2 channels of amplification from a Denon AVR-4311CI. I realize I'm in the minority driving 22k speakers with a $2k multichannel, mass market AVR. But I've rationalized it on the following grounds: (1) it's powerful as AVRs go and I'm only using 2 of the 9 PA modules -- predecessor 4310 measured 163/268 wrms @0.1% THD into 8/4 ohms with peak outputs of 192w/310w and the 4311 is rated 10 wpc higher; (2) I have the Salons crossed over to a 15" sub at 60 Hz which pains me to do BTW; (3) my MSP is only ~ 10' from the Salons; (4) I rarely listen at very high SPLs; and (5) the AVR has never gone into thermal fault. The final of these 5 factors had concerned me the most since the Salons do have some significant current demands at some frequencies and are fairly inefficient.

All of that led me to the thought of trying to measure the actual power being delivered to the speakers under actual listening conditions. I'd like to know anyone's thoughts on the methodology I'm using (actually, making it up as I go to a degree). Keep in mind I'm not interested in sub-atomic precision, just some ROM estimates that might shed some light. In a nutshell, I'm measuring power drawn from the wall outlet on the AVR AC power lead using a Kill-a-Watt device. Obviously there are some adjustments that need to be made to that number to get a decent estimate of what's actually going to one Speaker or the other. I assumed that if I measured the average power draw from the AVR when energized but not processing any audio or video and subtracted that number from the power draw I measured as music was playing then I'd get a decent estimate of the power input to the power supply when music is playing. That number will vary with SPL and thus time, and likely some configuration settings on the AVR. I further assumed the average efficiency of the PS/PAs to be 50%. The final assumption I made was that of the power that makes it from the wall to the outputs of the two channels on average it will be split equally between the two channels. Worst case from the standpoint of sizing the amplifier would be the scenario where 100% of the wall current at a given moment goes to one channel, but that doesn't seem very realistic to me in a 2 channel system.

Now for some numbers. I suppose I could have gotten a mic and some software to measure the SPLs but that wasn't important to me since I know how loud the loudest I listen is. That said, I measured the quiescent power when the AVR had no audio or video inputs to be around 95 watts. That seemed high but that's what it was and it didn't vary more than a watt or two. I then played several types of music all at average volume levels that were as loud as I would be able to listen to for more than a few minutes. As the music played, I watched the LCD display on the Kill-a-Watt display the power readings which it updates at one second intervals. The results were highly dependent on the source material as you would expect. Highly compressed tracks kept the power levels ranging from the 100-teens up into the 130s. Again, these were average levels, not the highest peaks. When I listened to some classical music (Rutter Requiem, Reference Recordings) the average level dropped way down, but when they hit peaks they were generally higher than the pop-oriented compressed crap.

The highest reading I saw was 210w. So let's just assume that corresponded with close to if not the highest peak SPL I'd likely encounter in normal listening, and let's further assume that a typical average power draw would be 115w. In each case following the assumptions I made, we would subtract 95 watts off the top, multiply that by 0.5 to account for efficiency of the PS/PA then divide that by two assuming the load was equally divided between the 2 channels. The resulting numbers would be 5 watts average per channel and 28.75 watts peak/channel.

Frankly, I don't believe those numbers, especially the peak number as it's well less than 10 dB above the average number and seems very low in an absolute sense. Some of that is likely attributable to my missing some of the highest peak values though I would think the LCD readout would be running off a peak hold circuit within the 1 second sampling interval which should capture the peaks.

Any ideas on where I may have made significant errors in this analysis?
o Home Loudspeaker Efficiency

Home loudspeakers are typically less than 1% efficient. Speaker efficiency really isn't a useful way to analyze home speakers.

o Peak power usage

The average of 5 watts is useful number for further analysis. The peak values you developed are likely rather averages over short periods of time.

The crest value of music or movies is often given as 10dB to 20dB. Using the 5 watt average value this would make the peak values somewhere between 50 watts and 500 watts. It is these peak values that cause huge demands on power amplifiers. Having sufficient power to meet these peak demands is required if amplifier clipping is to be avoided.

Of course these calculated peak values are very sensitive to the 5 watt average. For example, if the actual number is 4 watts then the peaks are 40 watts to 400 watts.

o Looking at this another way:

I keep a sound level meter in my media room. I occasionally take readings, in a attempt to avoid going completely deaf. I sometimes use C weighting, which seems relevant here, and the fast reading setting. The meter reading may or not be the real peak, I don't know. There are perhaps 5 - 10 readings per second.

The readings easily vary between 45dB SPL and 95dB SPL, likely more. In power terms this is a variation of 50dB or a factor of 100,000, if I've gotten the decimal in the correct place. Based on the variation in these SPL readings, I would expect the peak power readings, if they were somehow taken for my equipment, to range from 0 watts over the base reading to 200 to 500 watts over the base. This is if the average power is assumed to be 5 watts as measured above.

o Have others here performed more rigorous experiments in this area?
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post #16683 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 04:08 AM
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I finally finished cutting out the drywall for my four c763l's! It was a lot more difficult and time consuming than I thought. If I had a helper, it would have been a lot easier!
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post #16684 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 08:13 AM
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re: russ_777: you can always see if you can borrow a more powerful audio amplifier from a friend or dealer, and see whether you like the results. Specs can only tell you so much about the quality of an amp.

Or even a company like PS Audio has a home audition program:
https://www.psaudio.com/audition/

FWIW, I started with a PS Audio S300, and then upgraded recently to M700s. My speakers have moderate efficiency (PSB Synchrony One B / ~86dB sensitivity). Despite the fact that the S300 should have been plenty of power for them, and the M700s should sound similar since the circuitry is related between the two, there was an audible improvement stepping up. Yes, it is totally subjective.

(Disclosure - I am a happy customer of PS Audio but otherwise have no affiliation.)

ed

2Ch: Rega P1+ / Bluesound Node 2i -> Mytek Liberty / Creek Evo 100CD -> Schiit Freya+ -> PS Audio M700s -> Monitor Audio PL200 II / REL Strata II
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post #16685 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
o Home Loudspeaker Efficiency

Home loudspeakers are typically less than 1% efficient. Speaker efficiency really isn't a useful way to analyze home speakers.

o Peak power usage

The average of 5 watts is useful number for further analysis. The peak values you developed are likely rather averages over short periods of time.

The crest value of music or movies is often given as 10dB to 20dB. Using the 5 watt average value this would make the peak values somewhere between 50 watts and 500 watts. It is these peak values that cause huge demands on power amplifiers. Having sufficient power to meet these peak demands is required if amplifier clipping is to be avoided.

Of course these calculated peak values are very sensitive to the 5 watt average. For example, if the actual number is 4 watts then the peaks are 40 watts to 400 watts.

o Looking at this another way:

I keep a sound level meter in my media room. I occasionally take readings, in a attempt to avoid going completely deaf. I sometimes use C weighting, which seems relevant here, and the fast reading setting. The meter reading may or not be the real peak, I don't know. There are perhaps 5 - 10 readings per second.

The readings easily vary between 45dB SPL and 95dB SPL, likely more. In power terms this is a variation of 50dB or a factor of 100,000, if I've gotten the decimal in the correct place. Based on the variation in these SPL readings, I would expect the peak power readings, if they were somehow taken for my equipment, to range from 0 watts over the base reading to 200 to 500 watts over the base. This is if the average power is assumed to be 5 watts as measured above.

o Have others here performed more rigorous experiments in this area?
I believe you are bridging the AHB2's that measure close to 500 WPC into 4 ohms.
Have you illuminated the clip indictors (they will be more sensitive than your SPL meter)?

Overly compressed popular music is useful because many are recorded near 0 dBFS peaks so represent a maximum digital signal.
I have used Lorde for bass-heavy tracks and Sarah McLachlan "I Love You because I know when tracks clipped the AT3000, AT6000, and AHB2 amps.
As expected, the AT6002 and AHB2 (bi-amped not bridged) clip indicators differ by about 6 dB.

IMO, all amps should have good clip indicators so we can rest easy.

- Rich
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post #16686 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
I believe you are bridging the AHB2's that measure close to 500 WPC into 4 ohms.
Have you illuminated the clip indictors (they will be more sensitive than your SPL meter)?

Overly compressed popular music is useful because many are recorded near 0 dBFS peaks so represent a maximum digital signal.
I have used Lorde for bass-heavy tracks and Sarah McLachlan "I Love You because I know when tracks clipped the AT3000, AT6000, and AHB2 amps.
As expected, the AT6002 and AHB2 (bi-amped not bridged) clip indicators differ by about 6 dB.

IMO, all amps should have good clip indicators so we can rest easy.

- Rich
The AHB2's are setup bridged. I haven't noticed the clip indicators, but I can't say I'm paying close attention, so take that for what it's worth. IMNVHO, because AHB2's are essentially perfect voltage sources with essentially no distortion, until they run out of current, many of the advantages of passive bi-wiring would seem not to apply.

I've also used Bryston 4BSST2's (+300W into 8 ohms, +500W into 4 ohms with very low, but clearly not AHB2 levels of distortion, but lower than most others) always operating in two channel mode, both bi-amped(!) and stereo, one amplifier channel per speaker. Again I've not noticed the clip indicators. I've read (OK, not helpful without reference) that the Bryston's don't show clipping until the amp is far into clipping so that may not mean much either. It's not clear from the Bryston schematics at what level clipping would occur. I still own the Bryston's, but for some reason I seem to like the AHB2's better for driving the Salon2's. I can't offer any objective justification for that preference.

As a note: IMO, the 4BSST2's (likely 4BSST's as well) used are an exceptional value in used, premium stereo power amplifiers. The 20-year warranty contributes significantly to that value. A simple way to look at 4B's, is that a Denon AVR-X8500H has lots of digital circuitry and 13 Class A/B analog power amplifiers and weighs about 50 lbs. A 4BSST2 has two Class A/B power amplifier channels and weighs about 60 lbs.

A further added note: Each of the above amplifiers is supplied with by separate 20A circuit wired with #10 (#12 is code) Romex to a subpanel in the next room. Power line sagging should not be an issue. I acted as my own general contractor in building the house (saves a lot of money, and I'd drive a general crazy) so the up-spec'd wiring was done at little cost. Designing and building a house is very rewarding. When completed, the house is "yours," for better or worse. It's not that hard if you have the time.
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post #16687 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 02:08 PM
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I finally finished cutting out the drywall for my four c763l's! It was a lot more difficult and time consuming than I thought. If I had a helper, it would have been a lot easier!
Put your drill/driver on minimum torque when you put those in, and try to screw the last turns in manually. It's very easy to crack the drywall with an electronic drill/driver
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post #16688 of 18446 Old 01-02-2020, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
The AHB2's are setup bridged. I haven't noticed the clip indicators, but I can't say I'm paying close attention, so take that for what it's worth. IMNVHO, because AHB2's are essentially perfect voltage sources with essentially no distortion, until they run out of current, many of the advantages of passive bi-wiring would seem not to apply.

I've also used Bryston 4BSST2's (+300W into 8 ohms, +500W into 4 ohms with very low, but clearly not AHB2 levels of distortion, but lower than most others) always operating in two channel mode, both bi-amped(!) and stereo, one amplifier channel per speaker. Again I've not noticed the clip indicators. I've read (OK, not helpful without reference) that the Bryston's don't show clipping until the amp is far into clipping so that may not mean much either. It's not clear from the Bryston schematics at what level clipping would occur. I still own the Bryston's, but for some reason I seem to like the AHB2's better for driving the Salon2's. I can't offer any objective justification for that preference.

As a note: IMO, the 4BSST2's (likely 4BSST's as well) used are an exceptional value in used, premium stereo power amplifiers. The 20-year warranty contributes significantly to that value. A simple way to look at 4B's, is that a Denon AVR-X8500H has lots of digital circuitry and 13 Class A/B analog power amplifiers and weighs about 50 lbs. A 4BSST2 has two Class A/B power amplifier channels and weighs about 60 lbs.

A further added note: Each of the above amplifiers is supplied with by separate 20A circuit wired with #10 (#12 is code) Romex to a subpanel in the next room. Power line sagging should not be an issue. I acted as my own general contractor in building the house (saves a lot of money, and I'd drive a general crazy) so the up-spec'd wiring was done at little cost. Designing and building a house is very rewarding. When completed, the house is "yours," for better or worse. It's not that hard if you have the time.
I like the Salon2 bi-amped and listening about 1 watt and have had this preference with 3 amplifiers now. I also can offer no objective rational other perhaps it is the speakers the prefer this and not the amps.

I have also over wired my HT with 3 x 20 amp circuits and 1 x 15 amp circuit. The AHB2's have made this triple overkill, but I worked with my electrician to do the runs which were very easy. My house was originally, electric which is impractical and ridiculously expensive so I now have a 400 amp service with plenty of reserves. There is a downside, the power cannot be removed by pulling the meters, it needs to be disconnected at the street which was hugely inconvenient when one of the 200 amp breakers started to smoke. I had to call the fire department to avoid pulling a permit and even the electric company did not know which house was which so 4 houses lost power for a 1/2 while my electrician worked feverishly and 7 folks from the town stood and watched

Edit and OT: For those interested in the protection circuity of the AHB2 this is a great post by John:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/f...18#post-180791

- Rich

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post #16689 of 18446 Old 01-03-2020, 05:17 AM
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Revel F36 vs F206

I am strongly considering purchasing a pair of Concerta2 F36 floorstanders, but am also interested in learning more about the Performa3 F206s. I know that the F206 crossovers are more advanced, that it has a front port (vs rear port), the cabinet is probably a bit better made and it is more professionally finished. But what really interests me the most is sound quality, especially music.

Is there a noticeable improvement in sound between the F36 and the F206, especially as pertains to music? If so, in what areas?

In your opinion, is it worth spending an extra $750 per speaker to get the improved musical sound (if any) of the F206?

Thanks in advance!

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post #16690 of 18446 Old 01-03-2020, 05:54 AM
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Own the F206 speakers and they are superb. Have not owned the older version of Revel but did replace my much loved former top of the line PSB Goldi with the F206s ,as the companies have a similar but not the exact same neutral, clear, accurate sound.


FWIW - The Absolute Sound named the F206 their Affordable Speaker of the Year years ago and it is still recommended - highly recommended. They say it exceeds expectations not only in its price class but well beyond.



I see these for sale used and presume it is people trading up to the older expensive models or the newer expensive models - the F226BE and F228Be's.
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Originally Posted by hhawk View Post
Own the F206 speakers and they are superb. Have not owned the older version of Revel but did replace my much loved former top of the line PSB Goldi with the F206s ,as the companies have a similar but not the exact same neutral, clear, accurate sound.


FWIW - The Absolute Sound named the F206 their Affordable Speaker of the Year years ago and it is still recommended - highly recommended. They say it exceeds expectations not only in its price class but well beyond.



I see these for sale used and presume it is people trading up to the older expensive models or the newer expensive models - the F226BE and F228Be's.
Can the F206 be properly powered by an AVR? I'm considering purchasing them and right now I have one of the Pioneer SC receivers from years ago that are stable for 4 ohm loads.

My guess would be yes, but would like opinions from people who have owned them.
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post #16692 of 18446 Old 01-03-2020, 09:07 AM
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Can the F206 be properly powered by an AVR? I'm considering purchasing them and right now I have one of the Pioneer SC receivers from years ago that are stable for 4 ohm loads.

My guess would be yes, but would like opinions from people who have owned them.
I powered not the F206's but speakers that were a worse load from my Pioneer SC-27 so, whilst not having direct experience, I would say "yes".
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post #16693 of 18446 Old 01-03-2020, 09:42 AM
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Can the F206 be properly powered by an AVR? I'm considering purchasing them and right now I have one of the Pioneer SC receivers from years ago that are stable for 4 ohm loads.

My guess would be yes, but would like opinions from people who have owned them.
I run 4x F206’s and a C208 off of a Denon X4500H and it works fine, they get plenty loud enough for me. I do plan to add a separate amp eventually though.
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post #16694 of 18446 Old 01-03-2020, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark6088 View Post
I am strongly considering purchasing a pair of Concerta2 F36 floorstanders, but am also interested in learning more about the Performa3 F206s. I know that the F206 crossovers are more advanced, that it has a front port (vs rear port), the cabinet is probably a bit better made and it is more professionally finished. But what really interests me the most is sound quality, especially music.

Is there a noticeable improvement in sound between the F36 and the F206, especially as pertains to music? If so, in what areas?

In your opinion, is it worth spending an extra $750 per speaker to get the improved musical sound (if any) of the F206? Thanks in advance!
My system consists of F208's (front L/R), a C208 and F206's (rear surround). I was shocked at how good the F206's sound when I first got them. I have been to Harman and heard the Concerta2 series compared to the Performa3 series. The Concerta2 series are great sounding speakers at amazing prices. However, I can say the Performa3 series are worth the price difference to me. I think the best description of sound quality difference I can make is the Performa3 series are more refined. It's noticeable in each step up in the Revel lineup. The PerformaBe series do sound better than the Performa3 series and the Ultima2 series are some of the best sounding speakers I have ever heard.

The F36 is a 2 1/2 way crossover and has three 6 1/2" drivers. The F206 is a 3 way design with a 5 1/4" midrange drive and two 6 1/2 inch woofers. I personally like the F206 design and sound better than the F36. Sound quality of music playback is my passion and was my profession for over 30 years (recording and live sound engineer). If your budget can handle the F206's, I don't think you will regret spending the extra money.
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My system consists of F208's (front L/R), a C208 and F206's (rear surround). I was shocked at how good the F206's sound when I first got them. I have been to Harman and heard the Concerta2 series compared to the Performa3 series. The Concerta2 series are great sounding speakers at amazing prices. However, I can say the Performa3 series are worth the price difference to me. I think the best description of sound quality difference I can make is the Performa3 series are more refined. It's noticeable in each step up in the Revel lineup. The PerformaBe series do sound better than the Performa3 series and the Ultima2 series are some of the best sounding speakers I have ever heard.

The F36 is a 21/2 way crossover and has three 6 1/2" drivers. The F206 is a 3 way design with a 5 1/4" midrange drive and two 6 1/2 inch woofers. I personally like the F206 design and sound better than the F36. Sound quality of music playback is my passion and was my profession for over 30 years (recording and live sound engineer). If your budget can handle the F206's, I don't think you will regret spending the extra money.
Thanks so much for your impressions on the F206. Your background in sound engineering really adds a great deal of weight to your thoughts!

Music is definitely my priority and hearing the details is important to me. I had been a "wanna be" audiophile in my teens and 20s, but life put that passion on hold until I rediscovered it about five years ago. Now, I am pursuing a really refined and detailed sound, without losing richness. I will continue to look into the F206s!
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SteveH – Do you know when the F328Be will be available? I am curious if you have heard it and how it compares.
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post #16697 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 08:13 AM
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I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.

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post #16698 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.
Were those the one’s signed by KV?
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post #16699 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.
I can't wait to see how the 4 Wyred4Sound SX-1000R monos drive the pair of Salon2s. Pairing them with a Mac C47 with dual sets of balanced or unbalanced outputs makes the big setup a breeze to connect and with the dual trigger power control its a one push start-up/shutdown process! I just hope the rental house circuits can handle the load.

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post #16700 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.
I noticed you now have VA Beethovens in your sig. How much of a downgrade was it in going from the Salons to the VA's?
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post #16701 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.
Wow--the Salon 2's must be hard to drive. What is the minimum amp wattage per channel RMS and peak to run those?

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post #16702 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 02:27 PM
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Wow--the Salon 2's must be hard to drive. What is the minimum amp wattage per channel RMS and peak to run those?

It's a lot of drivers if you run them full range. If you use subs with bass management and cross over at 80 Hz, you can get by with fewer watts. Dr. Toole uses Mark Levinson 536s. Look at some reviews to see what others have used. https://www.stereophile.com/floorlou...vel/index.html
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post #16703 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
I sold my salon 2's to a gent that keeps in contact with me occasionally, I sold mine because my amp was triggering thermal pro and I didn't want the expense of replacing it. Now, the new owner of my salon 2's has 2 pair and a rack of 4 Mac mc 601's in his listening room. 4 salon 2's each with a 600w amp and he recently text me the Salon 2's (which I doubt he'll ever replace) give those amps all they can handle!
I'm so glad my babies went to a good home.
Was it the Hegel that was thermal faulting and were you running them full range? I seem to remember you having a dilemma with it not driving the Salons well enough a while back before you sold them. If so that is really surprising considering I've had no issues driving mine using a Denon AVR-4311.

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post #16704 of 18446 Old 01-04-2020, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark6088 View Post
Wow--the Salon 2's must be hard to drive. What is the minimum amp wattage per channel RMS and peak to run those?
It depends a lot on how loud you listen, the size of your room and whether you use a sub. I drive mine as loud as I want using an AVR that clips at ~175 wrms into 8 ohms and close to 300 into 4 with 2 channels driven. It's never shut itself down.

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post #16705 of 18446 Old 01-05-2020, 07:17 AM
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I’m currently using an Emotiva A-700 to drive my surrounds which are Performa S206’s. Do you think I’d get much improvement if I changed out the amp to an ATI NC528NC? I’m currently using an ATI NC543NC for F228’s\C208 (C426Be whenever that is released).

Thanks for any advice.
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post #16706 of 18446 Old 01-05-2020, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by russ_777 View Post
Was it the Hegel that was thermal faulting and were you running them full range? I seem to remember you having a dilemma with it not driving the Salons well enough a while back before you sold them. If so that is really surprising considering I've had no issues driving mine using a Denon AVR-4311.
That might have also been me who mentioned it. I've shut mine down a few times, but sort of deserved it with the load I'm driving and the level.
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post #16707 of 18446 Old 01-06-2020, 07:11 PM
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A question for anyone that has installed the Revel C763L in-ceiling speakers... What are you using to drive them? I'm considering deploying 4 of these speakers in some upcoming upgrades but what amp to use... Well, you know, there are a lot of amps out there. Many of them seem like good candidates until they begin to look like not-good-enough or overkill for the application. So, yeah, I have analysis paralysis.

My room is right at 3000 cu ft. Any thoughts on what makes sense?


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post #16708 of 18446 Old 01-06-2020, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ccondo1 View Post
I’m currently using an Emotiva A-700 to drive my surrounds which are Performa S206’s. Do you think I’d get much improvement if I changed out the amp to an ATI NC528NC? I’m currently using an ATI NC543NC for F228’s\C208 (C426Be whenever that is released).

Thanks for any advice.
IMO: No.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #16709 of 18446 Old 01-06-2020, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
A question for anyone that has installed the Revel C763L in-ceiling speakers... What are you using to drive them? I'm considering deploying 4 of these speakers in some upcoming upgrades but what amp to use... Well, you know, there are a lot of amps out there. Many of them seem like good candidates until they begin to look like not-good-enough or overkill for the application. So, yeah, I have analysis paralysis. My room is right at 3000 cu ft. Any thoughts on what makes sense?
A dilemma I am facing every day as I design systems. I keep going back to ATI because they are modular and configurable (choose the number of channels and watts you want/need).

Plus, they are built like tanks, sound great and come in Class AB or Class D NCore. They have a new series of Class AB amps coming out, hopefully soon. 160 series (160 W/ch), 220 series (220 W/ch), 330 series (330W/ch), all configurable from 2-8 channels. @sdurani, any updates? By any chance, is ATI implementing Dante in any new multichannel amps?
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post #16710 of 18446 Old 01-06-2020, 07:49 PM
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Ati seems like Overkill for the 763s IMO, I'm planning on a x.x.4 system and will probably run with an Emotiva AMP. Depends on whether I decide to let the Arcam AVR20 run my LCR (f206 and C208) or not.

Budget is already overflowing, so I'll probably opt to save some cash and keep it conservative.

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