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4M views 30K replies 3K participants last post by  Tank_PD 
#1 ·
I noticed that I hadn't seen B&W OWNER'S thread , but that there are a lot of owners on this forum and I think that the consistant bashing from about 4 posters makes people hesitant to get involved in any of the many threads that keep getting nasty. So, to that end, I think that if there was a thread where the Lovefest could be conducted without bothering NON-owners and the bashers weren't welcome, maybe some good info could come out of it.


My challenge would be to ask people here to keep it civil and that if you don't like B&W there is no point in you being here. If you want to talk about other comporables, start another thread.


For the record, I am a B&W dealer , and most know this, and as such , if I can find out any important info on the brand or certain models, I will be happy to. Don't , however, post or pm me regarding sales, I don't use threads as advertising for my business, and I won't sell you anything .


So what do you own and how is it set-up?
 
#18,621 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Brownstone  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/0_100#post_9014042


If I were in the same situation now, I'd consider the new CM Centre, although (dammit!) it doesn't come in black,

Not sure what you are referring to. The CM Centre does come in Gloss Black. I had one. If you have a few spare bucks and the room, I'd strongly recommend upgrading to the CM Centre 2. A huge difference in sound and well worth the difference in price.
 
#18,622 ·

Any way this can explain it all:

 

 

What’s the difference between a metalhead and a raver? Why do you pick the wub wub of dubstep over the twang of a guitar? Musical preference seems to be as unique as your fingerprints—you love one song and hate another, when to the ear of another listener they sound basically the same. Sure, there’s a heaping dose of social construction going on—you listen to music that you grew up with, the music that gets you in with your self-selected social group, the music that you think is cool. But there might be some biology behind your musical preference, too. The natural resonance of your skull—the unique frequency at which the bones in your noggin tend to vibrate—affects how you hear sound, and could help explain why you really rock out to Pantera but hate Metallica.

 

Deep inside your inner ear, within a little nautilus-shaped bone called the cochlea , tiny little hairs vibrate to transform sound into brain signals. Sound waves flowing around in the cochlea don’t just hit the hairs and go away, but rather they bounce around within your head—interacting with your skull bones. Nearly every object in the world prefers to vibrate at what is known as its “ natural frequency ,” your skull included, and these vibrations affect the sound waves that the hairs in your cochlea pick up.

 

The natural frequency of your head is a result of your skull’s size, density and shape, say scientists in a recent presentation at the meeting of the Acoustical Society of America , meaning that the vibrations of your skull are ever-so-slightly different than the person next to you. Measuring the natural vibrational frequency, the researchers found that people’s heads like to vibrate anywhere from 35 to 65 times per second, with women’s heads tending to vibrate faster than men’s.

The scientists then tested whether different people’s vibrating skulls affected which music they prefer. While the team says vibrational frequency of people’s heads didn’t seem to predict which music they liked, “skull resonance was found to moderately predict the musical keys that people disliked.”

 

The skull creates a kind of resonant chamber around the cochlea. Simple, integer-based ratios between the frequency of the skull, and the prominent frequencies used in a piece of music, will tend to make that music sound somewhat louder and richer to a listener. While there was little influence of resonance on the preferences, musical keys with more complex, non-integer mathematical ratios to the fundamental frequencies of the skull will tend to be sound somewhat thinner, resonate less, and possibly even induce minor acoustic distortions.

 

As a result, our research on this topic suggests that non-resonance between the skull and a musical key may induce a dislike of some music. While there is much research needed to fully explore this relationship more, skull resonance seems to have a subtle influence on musical preferences and selections particularly for the music we do not like.
 
#18,623 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by thisbejonas  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18450#post_24777899



Im still kind of lost. Your saying to drop the class D amp in favor of a 2 channel AB/A amp. The store offered to trade out my Class D Rotel 5 channel amp for the newer Rotel Class AB 5 channel amp. Mine is 250 watts per channel, the AB is 200 watts per channel. Why would I want to drop 50 watts? I am only seeing 200 to 250 watts AB/A amps. Wouldn't I want to push more power than that? Remember, I do like to crank up the volume, Im sure louder than most people would. I don't really get into dB measurements, I crank it up till its loud enough then maybe go a couple notches past that.. So the extra power should help me from clipping etc. Correct?



Is there a lot of difference in sound quality between a Class D and a Class AB amp?


Can someone specify a few 2 channel amps to look at with a budget of around 2k?


Sorry for all the questions, this is my first go round on trying to get to a higher level of quality in the home stereo/theater. All of my previous stereos were car stereos and the more power the better. I would like to find a happy ground that I can still crank it up, yet be able to show off the awesome quality of the 802's.


BTW my HTM2 finally showed up.....that thing is a beast of a center channel. I had been trying to compare measurements to my old CM series center. It didn't look it on paper, but its probably twice the size.

Hi I'm sorry to my late answer but the last week I was out of my country. You will not need 200W in your room and you can verify this in HK power calculator in its web site, I tried it and I can't belive that only I need 1 W to I can reach 75dB in my room.



Is there a lot of difference in sound quality between a Class D and a Class AB amp? Well to me yes it is but It will depend of your taste so you will need to try.


Can someone specify a few 2 channel amps to look at with a budget of around 2k? Parasound is very good to me even best sound than rotel.
 
#18,624 ·
I have a question, on the CM-8 towers. What would be a reason for the tweeters to not be working? If they are blown can you buy replacement tweeters for them?
 
#18,625 ·
Hi Blackmambakila,


Two immediate possibilities:

1. The tweeters are blown.

2. The jumpers that connect the top section of the binding post to the bottom is disconnected. You'll know this is true because the midrange driver will have no output.


You can contact the dealer that you purchased them from for service, or PM me and I'll help you obtain service.


Regards,


Patrick Butler

B&W Group North America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmambakila  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24812735


I have a question, on the CM-8 towers. What would be a reason for the tweeters to not be working? If they are blown can you buy replacement tweeters for them?
 
#18,626 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by leo2498  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24812051


Hi I'm sorry to my late answer but the last week I was out of my country. You will not need 200W in your room and you can verify this in HK power calculator in its web site, I tried it and I can't belive that only I need 1 W to I can reach 75dB in my room.



Is there a lot of difference in sound quality between a Class D and a Class AB amp? Well to me yes it is but It will depend of your taste so you will need to try.


Can someone specify a few 2 channel amps to look at with a budget of around 2k? Parasound is very good to me even best sound than rotel.

Adcom is selling 200WPC amps in the $1200-$1500 range. They're more than adequate.
 
#18,627 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Butler  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24814521


Hi Blackmambakila,


Two immediate possibilities:

1. The tweeters are blown.

2. The jumpers that connect the top section of the binding post to the bottom is disconnected. You'll know this is true because the midrange driver will have no output.


You can contact the dealer that you purchased them from for service, or PM me and I'll help you obtain service.


Regards,


Patrick Butler

B&W Group North America

Thanks so much for the info
 
#18,628 ·
I posted earlier in this thread about the rubber failure on my CM4 tower speaker drivers that came with gray rubber, which became dry, stiff and brittle and eventually cracked. I replaced one driver, which was in the worst state - rubber totally cracked - with the new one from B&W parts store (at about $170), but the irreversible process is also taking place on the remaining 3 drivers, which will soon need to be replaced as well. Needless to say, that's probably more than these towers (which I bought new some years ago, from a dealer that's now out of business) are worth now. What's really upsetting is that somebody in this thread commented that this only happens with gray rubber B&W used on very few models, mine being one of the unlucky few, and not on the regularly used black rubber. Indeed, the rubber on my rear 601s, bought at the same time, is just fine. The replacement driver, however, came with the same gray rubber.


Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I stand a chance for B&W to admit that this failure in the material is clearly their fault?


Thanks.
 
#18,629 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sasha M  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24815108


I posted earlier in this thread about the rubber failure on my CM4 tower speaker drivers that came with gray rubber, which became dry, stiff and brittle and eventually cracked. I replaced one driver, which was in the worst state - rubber totally cracked - with the new one from B&W parts store (at about $170), but the irreversible process is also taking place on the remaining 3 drivers, which will soon need to be replaced as well. Needless to say, that's probably more than these towers (which I bought new some years ago, from a dealer that's now out of business) are worth now. What's really upsetting is that somebody in this thread commented that this only happens with gray rubber B&W used on very few models, mine being one of the unlucky few, and not on the regularly used black rubber. Indeed, the rubber on my rear 601s, bought at the same time, is just fine. The replacement driver, however, came with the same gray rubber.


Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I stand a chance for B&W to admit that this failure in the material is clearly their fault?


Thanks.

I think the failure in the material is related to exposure to direct sun light. I don't know the exact name for the material used, but there's been lots of things such as PVC pipe, ductwork and others things that failed that used the same grey material. I doubt you can get any support from a liability stand point, it's been many years since this issue surfaced. The good news is if you avoid direct sunlight replacement speakers should last a long time.


See Ya,

Steve
 
#18,630 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClasseAddict  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24815443


I think the failure in the material is related to exposure to direct sun light. I don't know the exact name for the material used, but there's been lots of things such as PVC pipe, ductwork and others things that failed that used the same grey material. I doubt you can get any support from a liability stand point, it's been many years since this issue surfaced. The good news is if you avoid direct sunlight replacement speakers should last a long time.


See Ya,

Steve

So if the replacement drivers use the same material without change, and I cannot change the placement of the speakers in my apartment, I'm basically out of luck. And despite knowing about the issue for years, they still ship replacement drivers with the same material.

Just to explain how sensitive this material is, one of the speakers sees direct sunlight for only minutes, in the early evening, and for only less than 2 months in a year (and not every day is sunny here), and for only the last 4 years, never before, and always with the grille on - yet, apparently that's been enough to kill it.
 
#18,631 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sasha M  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18630#post_24815519


So if the replacement drivers use the same material without change, and I cannot change the placement of the speakers in my apartment, I'm basically out of luck. And despite knowing about the issue for years, they still ship replacement drivers with the same material.

Just to explain how sensitive this material is, one of the speakers sees direct sunlight for only minutes, in the early evening, and for only less than 2 months in a year (and not every day is sunny here), and for only the last 4 years, never before, and always with the grille on - yet, apparently that's been enough to kill it.

I understand what you are saying, and it's a shame you are having the problem. IMHO I don't think the grills help, sunlight is sunlight for this situation. In addition, sunlight that bounces off something else might also be an issue. In regards to replacement drivers...I think they were made at the same time, so same material. If these speakers were 5 years old they would be in warranty. I'm not not sure of the vintage of these speakers but suspect they are over 15 years old. As a minimum it would be nice to have a trade in option/credit towards new speakers to make the problem go away. However I don't see it happening...at some point products end their life cycle.


See Ya,

Steve
 
#18,632 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClasseAddict  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18630#post_24815589


I understand what you are saying, and it's a shame you are having the problem. IMHO I don't think the grills help, sunlight is sunlight for this situation. In addition, sunlight that bounces off something else might also be an issue. In regards to replacement drivers...I think they were made at the same time, so same material. If these speakers were 5 years old they would be in warranty. I'm not not sure of the vintage of these speakers but suspect they are over 15 years old. As a minimum it would be nice to have a trade in option/credit towards new speakers to make the problem go away. However I don't see it happening...at some point products end their life cycle.


See Ya,

Steve

They're about 13. Yup, with the thought that had I only bought a different model - a different color, in fact - at the same time, they would be just fine going for another 13...

Definitely makes me feel like not buying B&Ws to replace these :-/
 
#18,633 ·
Brain Kahn from hometheater said this:


"In comparison with the 800 Diamonds, the smaller and much less expensive 805 Diamonds provide much of the flagship's performance. The larger 800 of course has significantly more bass extension and impact and the midrange was even more refined. The 805 Diamonds, coupled with a competent subwoofer, such as Bowers & Wilkins' own DB-1, will get you performance much closer to the flagship 800 Diamond than the disparity in price would suggest."



I would like to hear your comments on this?
 
#18,634 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Murderousone  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600_100#post_24816060 Brain Kahn from hometheater said this: "In comparison with the 800 Diamonds, the smaller and much less expensive 805 Diamonds provide much of the flagship's performance. The larger 800 of course has significantly more bass extension and impact and the midrange was even more refined. The 805 Diamonds, coupled with a competent subwoofer, such as Bowers & Wilkins' own DB-1, will get you performance much closer to the flagship 800 Diamond than the disparity in price would suggest." I would like to hear your comments on this?
Try it yourself and compare for small rooms probably better solution as the 800D need room to grow!
 
#18,635 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre.goyette  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18600#post_24807443


My question is, what are the optimal parameters for the DB1 ? The manual (which is rather poor) implies some settings if you have it paired with other B&W components but seems to leave it at that. I haven't yet had a chance to check out the SubApp.

 
 

- Use the DB1 SubApp!

 

Global settings:

- Adjust input to match speakers (75dB) (Audyssey-enabled AVR receivers have a test sound to measure correct output level; you have one for mono or stereo - according to which input you are using). 

- Low pass filter; ignore this setting if you have a processor/AVR; see elements under Presets for details

- Setting (configure trigger or preset-switch via trigger 1/2) to your likings

 

Presets:

- Input mono/stereo; according to what input you are using. Keep in mind both stereo and mono input can be used and switched between by selecting preset

- System EQ (I use flat, some like Impact for movies... what every you prefer)

- Low-pass filter = out (you disconnect everything relating low-pass filter in the DB1; and use surround processor/avr for these settings

- Level... flat (0) is a good plan.

 

Room-correction:

- Connect microphone; and run calibration (8-steps); keep in mind that the measurement points should be fairly close; else the correction will not be able to adjust for more than the main "peak". I usually run calibration with all 8 steps with microphone placed fairly close in my main listening position.
 
#18,636 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Murderousone  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18630#post_24816060


Brain Kahn from hometheater said this:


"In comparison with the 800 Diamonds, the smaller and much less expensive 805 Diamonds provide much of the flagship's performance. The larger 800 of course has significantly more bass extension and impact and the midrange was even more refined. The 805 Diamonds, coupled with a competent subwoofer, such as Bowers & Wilkins' own DB-1, will get you performance much closer to the flagship 800 Diamond than the disparity in price would suggest."



I would like to hear your comments on this?

I don't doubt it. It doesn't take much size to play the midrange and HF. The tweeter is the same, but the midrange driver covers a greater range in the 805 vs the 800. It may sound similar, however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wse  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18630#post_24816095


Try it yourself and compare for small rooms probably better solution as the 800D need room to grow!

It would have to be a very small room before I'd buy anything but the 800D2's.
 
#18,638 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrill  /t/755048/b-w-owners-thread/18630#post_24816860


I am thinking of buying some second hand 803Ns. In the pics sent the labels in the backs (where the binding posts are) look different than others I have seen. Did the 803Ns labels change over the course of the production.


In short - I am asking if these look legit.



This looks legit and fine. Same as I have on my B&W Nautilus SCM1 speakers (currently used as surround rears).
 
#18,640 ·
So I picked up these Nautilus 803s. They looked and sounded great. Supposedly owned by a grandfather that passed years ago, and basically left gathering dust since.

They sound amazing in my room -- and a big upgrade to my CDM-9NTs (which are for sale BTW).

I attached a picture -- but it looks like the transit cap has never been removed. Is that bad? Any harm to the speaker by running them with the transit cap on? I assume I should remove it (by backing out the phillips screw) correct?

Any help/advice is appreciated.
 

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