Some software likes to adjust the volume of audio tracks, which is no good for burning a firmware disc. For example, in Windows Media player you have to turn off the option "Apply volume leveling..." or the disc won't work. Other software may have similar features that need to be disabled. On playback, you also need to make sure the player is outputting the original data at 44.1kHz. A player than resamples the data or applies some other processing will make the update fail.
That said, I'll take another look at the 663 firmware file tonight and see what models it seems to be for. I can also verify the burn you made if you re-rip the CD to get back a .wav file (make sure to rip losslessly). I can tell if it's still a valid Yamaha firmware file, or whether it got modified during the burn process.
So the error message you got is probably because of the way the CD was burned or is being played back. You could try again with different burning software, and a different player if you have one. Which software and player did you use when you got the error message?
HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD
Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub
Bathroom: 2 X Energy Take LCR
Car: Sony Xplod HU, Xplod 6X9s, Kenwood 4"s, Alpine 12" Type-S, Rockford Amp,...
After further testing, it appears that the HDMI handshake between the PS3 and my V863 seems to be faltering. I ran the HDMI direct to the TV and ran the PS3 for many hours with no issues.
This is actually the second time the HDMI has caused me problems. The first time I took it and had it sent out for repair. I'm not going to do that again, I'll just get a new one. Looking at the Marantz SR7007 maybe.
I just thought attempting a firmware 'update' might help, and if I totally bricked it I would have a better reason to convince WifeUnit01 that we need a fancy new av receiver.
Still open to suggestions on fixes.
I originally bought it primarily as a replacement for a Zektor 4-in-1-out component video/audio switch I'd been using for handling multiple video/audio sources, because I really wanted to use HDMI. Also, the V863 is very much "analog-centric" and included a complete set of S-video connections which was important to me at the time, something that appears to pretty much no longer be present on any current AVRs.
However about a year ago I made a significant equipment upgrade (entirely HDMI-based), and upgraded to a Yamaha RX-V867. Although S-video was now gone with the V867, the unit now had four HDMI inputs instead of three, and had two HDMI outputs instead of one. This was very important to me. Still had multi-channel analog audio inputs/outputs which was important to me. I simply stopped using the old analog VCR's and other video sources which were S-video based, which is just a step forward anyway as I've solved the problem by making much more practical and durable DVDs and BluRays of those old tapes.
Furthermore, the V867 had "party mode" which was a way to deliver downmix-to-stereo of multi-channel primary 5.1 input to a second 2-channel stereo set of external speakers, which was important to me in support of a particular TV location.
The V863 has been re-purposed (along with some other supporting original equipment) to provide multi-channel audio from my HTPC computer at a second location (fed via optical coax from the PC), while the V867 and related new equipment is the mainstay at the primary HDTV location. I suspect the V863 will be with me and still working perfectly for many years to come, in its current audio-only implementation. But it was just fine for me even when I using its S-video/component/HDMI video features as well.
Casts doubt on all of their work.
Assuming you have the DVR connected to the AVR, and the AVR connected to the TV, I'd suggest you try simply powering things on in a different sequence, rather than trying to power everything on all at once. I'd turn the TV on first and let it "stabilize". Then turn the DVR on second, and let it stabilize. Actually, you can probably power on both DVR and TV without worrying... as long as the AVR is not yet powered on until both DVR and TV "stabilize".
Then finally turn the AVR on last. With both TV and DVR's (i.e. the devices on either side of the AVR, which shouldn't be able to "see each other via HDMI until the AVR itself is finally powered on last) already powered on and stabilized, the HDMI handshake process that will go on (to the two active HDMI-enabled devices as seen by the AVR) when you power on the AVR should probably work without any issue. Certainly you already see evidence of this for yourself, as you describe changing inputs on the AVR and then returning to the DVR input and now everything magically works just fine.
This is unfortunately to be expected when you have more than two devices connected directly to each other via HDMI (and where the HDMI handshake is less complicated and typically what is tested by the manufacturers), i.e. when you insert an AVR as an "HDMI switcher" in between two HDMI-enabled devices.
Note that I have a similar issue with my own setup which uses a newer RX-V867, and also my Linksys DMA2100 Windows Media Extender (i.e. DVR-like box from my HTPC), and my Oppo BDP-103 (with the DMA2100 going INTO the external HDMI-1 input of the 103), and my Panny 65VT50 HDTV. The Oppo has an optional setup where one of its two external HDMI inputs or its own internal disc player can be selected as the default when you power on the 103. Well, even though I want to select the DMA2100's external HDMI-1 input as the default, I too was getting a black screen on my TV because the DMA2100 takes about 30-seconds to stabilize and become operational after its power-on. So in my own FOUR-DEVICE HDMI-chain, everything else was looking for an HDMI handshake while the DMA2100 was still stabilizing!!
My solution: DMA2100 powered on first, and just wait until it stabilizes. Then the other devices can be powered on. Alternatively, since this was really a pain in the neck, I just changed the 103 to use its own internal player as the power-on startup default (even though I really wanted to be watching HDTV via the DMA2100). And I could now power on all devices (including the DMA2100 which takes 30-seconds to stabilize) at about the same time. Then, once the DMA2100 was ready to go, I change the input on the 103 to be external input HDMI-1 for the DMA2100, thus triggering an "end-to-end 4-device HDMI handshake" which works perfectly, and I'm off and running.
Again, anytime you have three or more devices inter-connected via HDMI, your HDMI handshake stability is up for grabs. You'll just have to live with it I'm afraid, including any workaround tricks or gimmicks you've discovered to overcome the anomalous behavior.
Has anyone else experienced this and are there any suggestions on a fix? This turntable configuration worked fine with my Onkyo A10. Thanks in advance. I hope this is in the appropriate forum.
Prob can get something good from CL for $100-200 or less depending on where you live
Here's a good place to start on makes and models: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=307887
Thanks in advance!!!!
Pioneer Elite SC-05/SC-25
JBL Studio speakers - both rooms
PSA V1800, 3 MFW-15's, ported UM18-22
BenQ W7500, Oppo 103s, ST 16:9 110" white
Benq HT2050 2nd system-96" Carls Flexigray
Just bought a used one for $80. I already had a 2002 basic Yamaha receiver doing the job fine but wanted to add one more device to the bedroom instead of just my PC.
The problem I have is running my Windows 10 PC with modern AMD video card through the receiver makes for flicker/shake when I highlight icons. Also when scrolling web pages the screen does not track well and distorts the image. If I can't run this PC and Apple TV through this receiver without degrading my PC experience then this was a a wasted purchase as I was planning on running another HDMI cable through the wall up to the TV and simply using a long OPTICAL out from TV to the receiver.
Anyone know if there is any known methods to decrease input lag or distortion for running a PC through this receiver. Again my PC has been working great for a few years to this TV so the receiver is causing this glitchy visual. The screen looks fine till I start to scroll or move stuff around. IDEAS?
Last edited by eno45; 11-26-2017 at 09:15 PM.
I tested with its original remote (RAV372/WM88530 EU) and my phone which I usually use (both still works with other devices).
I aligned the remote AMP and Tuner ID both on the RX-V side and the original remote, also did a factory reset on the RX-V, didn't help.
So.... I bought an IR extender (LiNKFOR IR Extender from Amazon), thinking maybe the integrated IR led died on the receiver somehow.
The IR extended turned out to be pretty useful, it actually works great on my other Yamaha receiver but no luck with my RX-V863
I know other Yamaha models has an "ignore remote" feature, but I couldn't find it with the RX-V863.
Any ideas ?
I am running a Chromecast into HDMI and want to route audio to my Bluetooth transmitter through MD/CD-R optical out. I set the output for the HDMI input associated with the cast device to the Optical out but I'm not getting any sound to the transmitter. I know the transmitter works (tested w/another device) but wanted to see if anyone has run into this and did anything special to make it work or if I just have a bad unit/optical out.
TV and BluRay are now connected via HDMI. I added a Firestick, also HDMI. That all works fine in the main room, but there is no sound in the master BR and bath. In the RX-V863 advanced setup, I have turned on BI-AMP. Speakers (5.1) are connected to speaker posts. Speaker posts for Surround B L/R (for 7.1) are not connected to anything. The RX-V863 is connected to the Audiosource Amp100 with a single RCA cord (Red/White) out of the 863 Pre-Out for Sur. B L/R and into Audiosource Amp100 Input Line 2 (where it was before). The Amp100 power light is green, indicating audio signal...but no sound in master BR or bath. I did not change anything on the Amp100, including the speaker wire connections to master BR and bath. I have tried a different RCA cable.
I am stumped. Zone 2 is not an option because it is for analog only.
Can anyone think of anything else I could try? I feel like it has to be something very simple. I would be very grateful! Thank you.