Official marantz nr1501 slim receiver owners' thread - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 403 Old 01-05-2018, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
Hey good work twowheelin. It's a really cheap 50 Cent fix If you have a scope you can put the probe at the output of the IC1606. Then you can see a lot of ripple there. The problem are the caps C1604 100uF/6.3V (electrolytic) and C1603 100nF (ceramic). The 1,8V output is used to power the Audio Decoder DSP IC1601 (CS497004). The caps in this device are all "Badcaps" from SamWha

If you have a problem with the device but you dont know how to troubleshoot. Start with the Service mode.

1. Power on the Receiver
2. Hit the Button "Menu" and "Cursor right" for 5 seconds
3. Then with the Enter Button you can read the service and firmware information
4. If you had an error it will displayed at the last point after the Full LCD Check

CHK DSP -> HDMI Board -> Power Regulators 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.2V
CHK EEP -> Mainboard EEPROM IC103
CHK CPU -> MAIN/HDMI Board -> 3.3V Supply, Communication error between Sub and Main CPU

best regards - Foppel
Hi Foopel,
Do you know if this service mode exists on the NR1602 ? I tried to hit the same keys but without success
Thanks
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post #392 of 403 Old 01-05-2018, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aphon31 View Post
Hi Foopel,
Do you know if this service mode exists on the NR1602 ? I tried to hit the same keys but without success
Thanks
Sorry Foppel I made a mistake on your pseudo with my previous post
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post #393 of 403 Old 09-18-2018, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by twowheelin View Post
The repair is working great after 2 widely separated listening sessions. (8+ hours 'off-time'...) The snaps and pops are completely gone on power up. I have not experienced a sound cut-off when changing channels yet, so I'm hoping that's fixed too!

For anyone that is having this problem, the datasheet for the IC1606 (IL1117-1.8) is available from multiple sources via Google. It's a 3 pin regulator, so you're basically connecting the new cap across pins 1 & 2. My soldering iron tip was a little rough for this size of circuits, but it worked out in the end.

Thanks again Foppel!
Thanks to you: my receiver works fine again, without warmup delay against the popping noise
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post #394 of 403 Old 12-12-2018, 01:12 AM
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Hi, My NR1501 is a mess.
I bought it secondhand and at first I was unable to get 7.1 audio working(independent of input), but stereo did work so I settled for that.
Now however my right channel stopped working as well.
even when using radio, so without inputs used.

Also when I use Aux and turn on the device, then I first have to switch it to radio for the relais to click, and back in order for it to give sound at all.

I think digital in might not work either, but that might have a different cause because I have no other devices to test my digital out with, so i cant be sure about that.
-
What would be the most likely problem?
What parts should i just replace and check if it helps?
I am able to solder and replace or bypass parts, but troubleshooting and measuring and really knowing what im doing is a whole different thing.

-
There is also something curious going on that might or might not be related.
My original setting connects a pc to a external usb 7.1 audiocard. From there it connects to a minispeaker over the headphoneconnection which i normally use, and over the line out I connected the amplifier which I turn on occasionally to listen to music. The curious part is that on the minispeaker the right speaker has stopped working also (and just when I connected my headphone just now (a day after it broke) instead of the minispeaker (which I had connected and disconnected multiple times) just now to rule out if its the minispeaker or the output, both the minispeaker and headphones work again full stereo) .. anyway, so I think the soundcard might be getting feedback or so from the receiver..
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post #395 of 403 Old 12-12-2018, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJim1501 View Post
Hi, My NR1501 is a mess.
I bought it secondhand and at first I was unable to get 7.1 audio working(independent of input), but stereo did work so I settled for that.
Now however my right channel stopped working as well.
even when using radio, so without inputs used.

Also when I use Aux and turn on the device, then I first have to switch it to radio for the relais to click, and back in order for it to give sound at all.

I think digital in might not work either, but that might have a different cause because I have no other devices to test my digital out with, so i cant be sure about that.
-
What would be the most likely problem?
What parts should i just replace and check if it helps?
I am able to solder and replace or bypass parts, but troubleshooting and measuring and really knowing what im doing is a whole different thing.

-
There is also something curious going on that might or might not be related.
My original setting connects a pc to a external usb 7.1 audiocard. From there it connects to a minispeaker over the headphoneconnection which i normally use, and over the line out I connected the amplifier which I turn on occasionally to listen to music. The curious part is that on the minispeaker the right speaker has stopped working also (and just when I connected my headphone just now (a day after it broke) instead of the minispeaker (which I had connected and disconnected multiple times) just now to rule out if its the minispeaker or the output, both the minispeaker and headphones work again full stereo) .. anyway, so I think the soundcard might be getting feedback or so from the receiver..
Refer to p. 37 of the Owner's manual and perform a "microprocessor reset" (or also see below). If that does not resolve the issue, return it to the seller and get your money back.

1. Check that the power is on.
2. While pressing the unit’s MENU button, hold down the 4 cursor button for at least 3 seconds. After “M-CLEAR” has appeared on the display, the STANDBY mode is established, the settings that were selected are initialized, and the default settings are restored.
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post #396 of 403 Old 12-12-2018, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Refer to p. 37 of the Owner's manual and perform a "microprocessor reset" (or also see below). If that does not resolve the issue, return it to the seller and get your money back.

1. Check that the power is on.
2. While pressing the unit’s MENU button, hold down the 4 cursor button for at least 3 seconds. After “M-CLEAR” has appeared on the display, the STANDBY mode is established, the settings that were selected are initialized, and the default settings are restored.
Thanks for your quick reply. Didnt expect that!
I have tried the reset but the symptoms remain the same.
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post #397 of 403 Old 12-15-2018, 12:06 PM
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A new problem just arose..now it only works (with the left speaker) while the source is direct Could it still be saved?
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post #398 of 403 Old 12-21-2018, 07:39 AM
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I decided to try and fix it as much of the problems seem to resemble what others described (except I have no popping)
The service-mode reveals a CHK DSP.
I would like to replace caps C1604 100uF/6.3V (electrolytic) and C1603 100nF (ceramic) and also add a 1000uF capacitor to IC1606.
I would also like to replace all voltage regulators on that board (unless there is a foolproof method to measure them in the circuit and determine that they are functioning properly. I measured their resistance and all of them behave the same, low ohm, 0 ohm, high ohm, but i have no idea if that measurement has any meaning) and thus replacing them seems my best course.

Question: I can't find a place to buy IL1117-x anywhere. Are there substitutes I could use, or does anyone know where I could find them?

On audiokarma blagstrom said that C1204 on the HDMI board didn't cut it.
and adviced to add a 1000uf, 16V across pins 1 and 4 on IC1005.

Question: Is this useful?and/or a trend? Should i add capacitors to all voltage regulators on the HDMI board? or should I better just replace all 6v capacitors?
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post #399 of 403 Old 02-01-2019, 08:16 AM
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Problem with my Chromecast Marantz LGC8.

Hi all,

Hopefully someone can help me here.
My setup right now is Marantz NR1501, Oled LG C8 and Chromecast ultra.

The chromecast is attached in the HDMI named "game" of my receiver. When i wanted to stream music or video via my chromecast it worked perfectly.
Then I bought the LGC8 Oled and it replaced my Panasonic Plasma. When i now switch on my reciever to hdmi "game"it does not show anything. My LG says it don't have a source and i should switch to arc?
I've checked and my receiver has HDMI 1.3 and no ARC. But it should work because the only change i made is a screen, right?

What i'm i missing here?

Kind regards,

Brander
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post #400 of 403 Old 02-01-2019, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brander View Post
Hi all,

Hopefully someone can help me here.
My setup right now is Marantz NR1501, Oled LG C8 and Chromecast ultra.

The chromecast is attached in the HDMI named "game" of my receiver. When i wanted to stream music or video via my chromecast it worked perfectly.
Then I bought the LGC8 Oled and it replaced my Panasonic Plasma. When i now switch on my reciever to hdmi "game"it does not show anything. My LG says it don't have a source and i should switch to arc?
I've checked and my receiver has HDMI 1.3 and no ARC. But it should work because the only change i made is a screen, right?

What i'm i missing here?

Kind regards,

Brander
Both your Cromecast Ultra and your TV are HDMI v2/HDCP v2.2 devices (required for 4K UHD video), but your receiver is not. I suspect that the Chromecast Ultra is confused and is trying to send the v2 signals which the receiver can't handle.

I think the best compromise would be to plug the Chromecast directly into the TV and run a digital optical audio cable from the TV to the receiver. That way you'll get the highest resolution video. The TV should be able to forward 5.1 Dolby Digital and 2.0 PCM audio from the Chromecast and from the TV's internal apps over the optical audio connection to the receiver.

Alternatively, you might try an HDCP converter between the Chromecast and the receiver, perhaps something like https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15242

but you'll still need the optical connection for the TV's own apps.

Selden

Marantz SR7009 avr + MM9000 amp --> Atmos 7.1.4
Fronts=NHT 2.9+AC2, FH+TM=DefTech PM1000, LCR+TM amped
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post #401 of 403 Old 06-02-2019, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foppel View Post
If you have a bad sound at the start procedure you can add a new capacitor (1000uF/10V) between GND and the output of the IC1606. If you are not good in soldering you can ask somebody. It will take only a few minutes. The IC1606 is on the top side of the board.

best regards - Foppel
This fix still works. Thank you so much. This receiver is a decade old. I picked it up at a Goodwill, but still cranks out the sound! First electronic soldering repair in my life.
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post #402 of 403 Old 06-09-2019, 03:30 PM
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Well that was short lived. Now no sound at all comes out of the receiver. I hear both clicks when it turns on and the display lights up, but no sound at all. Oh well.
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post #403 of 403 Old 08-14-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheelin View Post
The repair is working great after 2 widely separated listening sessions. (8+ hours 'off-time'...) The snaps and pops are completely gone on power up. I have not experienced a sound cut-off when changing channels yet, so I'm hoping that's fixed too!

For anyone that is having this problem, the datasheet for the IC1606 (IL1117-1.8) is available from multiple sources via Google. It's a 3 pin regulator, so you're basically connecting the new cap across pins 1 & 2. My soldering iron tip was a little rough for this size of circuits, but it worked out in the end.

Thanks again Foppel!
Good afternoon,

Did you simply add a capacitor to the circuit without removing a bad cap?

Thank you,

John
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