"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 140 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4171 of 4194 Old 11-17-2017, 02:47 AM
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Hi all,

Sorry if this has been asked here before, but I only just found out that HDMI CEC exists ^^"

I'm trying to get a Chromecast to turn on my RX-V767.
My setup for the receiver is:
HDMI OUT -> Projector
HTPC -> HDMI 1
Chromecast -> HDMI 2

I turned on HDMI Control, and this still didn't work.
Tried swapping inputs for the Chromecast, still didn't work.

Any chance of getting the receiver to turn on properly?

Thanks!!
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post #4172 of 4194 Old 11-25-2017, 03:18 AM
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Don't know the first thing about Chromecast, but is there place in the app (or controlling device) that you have to enable in order for it to control your system?
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post #4173 of 4194 Old 11-25-2017, 06:13 AM
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"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelic Liar View Post
…Sorry if this has been asked here before, but I only just found out that HDMI CEC exists ^^"



I'm trying to get a Chromecast to turn on my RX-V767.

Any chance of getting the receiver to turn on properly?
Should work, just cast to the Chromecast with a media app (e.g. Google Play Music), and it should activate CEC. Been a while, since I turn on my AVR regularly with the Chromecast scene to have the time and weather displayed. The Samsung tv turns on dutifully since the Chromecast is displaying video information, even with nothing casting to it.

Which Chromecast do you have, first gen, second gen...?

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post #4174 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 06:16 AM
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AVR Volume Questions

Got a few things bothering me with my setup and need some help! My receiver is a Yamaha rx-v667. All inputs are receiving audio over hdmi.
Speakers are svs prime fronts and def tech pro monitor 1000 surrounds. Volume goes from like -80 to +16.

1)Not really a question but I guess I don't understand how my avr volume works. I ran YPAO and then used a spl meter to check that "0" was 75db using test tones from S&M test disc. 75db was actually at about -1.5 which I figured was due to the accuracy of the spl meter which is +-2.
So I figured I was good to go. Last night I was listening to music on apple tv using airplay from my mac. I pulled out the spl meter just to see how loud I listen to music. With the avr at -30 I was getting between 70-75db. How can this be? My guesses are:
a)Different inputs on the avr have different volumes relative to one another. If so, how do you fix that?
b)Music (pcm) plays louder than dolby digital or dts signals. I used dts hd ma signal on the S&M disc to check for 75db at (0). Maybe this is like how many sd channels on cable playing pcm(stereo) play louder at the same avr volume as most hd channels with DD audio.
c)Itunes and airplay do weird things with the volume. Songs that are actual Itunes downloads play louder a lot of the times than songs that are ripped from cd's. With sound check off on itunes most songs play at different volumes depending on whether they are itunes downloads,ripped cds, or hd tracks 24 bit 48hz songs. Doesn't airplay convert all songs to 48hz instead of 44.1?

I am guessing some combination of all three of is what has me baffled at the volume situation. This also leads me into my 2nd mystery. I listen to music on the apple tv with the avr in 2ch mode with svs prime bookshelves. They are pointed straight out and about 7 feet apart. I sit about 10 feet from them. I know from reading on here that these are not the most well regarded speakers for music but they sound like crap with music on the apple tv. They sound great on movie soundtracks, even ones with a lot of music such as frozen or moana. Yes, I have two small children. With the apple tv, they sound muddy and vocals get harsh on some songs. I am not talking about siblance with s's or t's but almost like an edginess. I am trying to figure out if this is due to the apple tv, the speakers being crap for music, or the fact that my avr is not very powerful and playing so loudly (75db) at such a low volume (-30) is making the reciever clip.

I have tried playing music on the apple tv and changing the parametric eq on the avr from (flat) to (natural) to (through) and got the same results. I have checked the audio settings on the apple tv but maybe I missed one or don't understand what a particular one means. My next experiment will be to take some music on a thumb drive and play it through my udp-203 and see what it does. This will at least tell me whether it is the apple tv or not.
Thoughts?
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post #4175 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coxjamb View Post
Got a few things bothering me with my setup and need some help! My receiver is a Yamaha rx-v667. All inputs are receiving audio over hdmi.
Speakers are svs prime fronts and def tech pro monitor 1000 surrounds. Volume goes from like -80 to +16.

1)Not really a question but I guess I don't understand how my avr volume works. I ran YPAO and then used a spl meter to check that "0" was 75db using test tones from S&M test disc. 75db was actually at about -1.5 which I figured was due to the accuracy of the spl meter which is +-2.
So I figured I was good to go. Last night I was listening to music on apple tv using airplay from my mac. I pulled out the spl meter just to see how loud I listen to music. With the avr at -30 I was getting between 70-75db. How can this be? My guesses are:
a)Different inputs on the avr have different volumes relative to one another. If so, how do you fix that?
Adjust each input's Volume Trim. See page 52 of the US manual. A link to it is available on the Web page https://usa.yamaha.com/products/cont...sual&l=en&p=56 (and elsewhere).
Quote:
b)Music (pcm) plays louder than dolby digital or dts signals. I used dts hd ma signal on the S&M disc to check for 75db at (0). Maybe this is like how many sd channels on cable playing pcm(stereo) play louder at the same avr volume as most hd channels with DD audio.
The level difference between PCM and multichannel encodings of the same soundtrack has been present since forever. There have been various technical descriptions about why they're different, but it really just boils down to being "that's the way it is."

In contrast, the high volume level of CDs is the fault of their producers. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudness_war

The level differences on individual TV channels between program and advertisements is the fault of the advertisers. They set the their sound levels high. The FCC had to establish limits on how much they're allowed to increase the volume. You can use Adaptive DRC to compensate for this. See page 51 of the owner's manual.
Quote:
c)Itunes and airplay do weird things with the volume. Songs that are actual Itunes downloads play louder a lot of the times than songs that are ripped from cd's. With sound check off on itunes most songs play at different volumes depending on whether they are itunes downloads,ripped cds, or hd tracks 24 bit 48hz songs. Doesn't airplay convert all songs to 48hz instead of 44.1?
The bitrate and bit depth have nothing whatsoever to do with the relative volume levels. The sound level variations are due to the level settings used by whoever created the download. Complain to them. Unlike with movies, there are no volume level standards for music.
Quote:
I am guessing some combination of all three of is what has me baffled at the volume situation. This also leads me into my 2nd mystery. I listen to music on the apple tv with the avr in 2ch mode with svs prime bookshelves. They are pointed straight out and about 7 feet apart. I sit about 10 feet from them. I know from reading on here that these are not the most well regarded speakers for music but they sound like crap with music on the apple tv. They sound great on movie soundtracks, even ones with a lot of music such as frozen or moana. Yes, I have two small children. With the apple tv, they sound muddy and vocals get harsh on some songs. I am not talking about siblance with s's or t's but almost like an edginess. I am trying to figure out if this is due to the apple tv, the speakers being crap for music, or the fact that my avr is not very powerful and playing so loudly (75db) at such a low volume (-30) is making the reciever clip.
It's the poor quality of audio provided by AppleTV. See http://www.appledystopia.com/bad-app...audio-quality/
Quote:
I have tried playing music on the apple tv and changing the parametric eq on the avr from (flat) to (natural) to (through) and got the same results. I have checked the audio settings on the apple tv but maybe I missed one or don't understand what a particular one means. My next experiment will be to take some music on a thumb drive and play it through my udp-203 and see what it does. This will at least tell me whether it is the apple tv or not.
Thoughts?
See above.
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post #4176 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
Adjust each input's Volume Trim. See page 52 of the US manual. A link to it is available on the Web page https://usa.yamaha.com/products/cont...sual&l=en&p=56 (and elsewhere).

The level difference between PCM and multichannel encodings of the same soundtrack has been present since forever. There have been various technical descriptions about why they're different, but it really just boils down to being "that's the way it is."

In contrast, the high volume level of CDs is the fault of their producers. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudness_war

The level differences on individual TV channels between program and advertisements is the fault of the advertisers. They set the their sound levels high. The FCC had to establish limits on how much they're allowed to increase the volume. You can use Adaptive DRC to compensate for this. See page 51 of the owner's manual.

The bitrate and bit depth have nothing whatsoever to do with the relative volume levels. The sound level variations are due to the level settings used by whoever created the download. Complain to them. Unlike with movies, there are no volume level standards for music.

It's the poor quality of audio provided by AppleTV. See http://www.appledystopia.com/bad-app...audio-quality/

See above.
Thanks for the info!
So to recap:
Different inputs on the avr have different volumes. Different downloads and ripped cds have different volumes depending on who mastered them. Multichannel tracks have different volumes from pcm tracks. So there really is no way to truly make them all the same without altering the signal(drc), so I need to quit worrying about the volume level of the avr and just enjoy I do need to find a better solution for listening to music though. I need a way to get music from my mac to my avr or just put some decent speakers with my mac and use it for music and not my home theater.
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post #4177 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coxjamb View Post
Thanks for the info!
So to recap:
Different inputs on the avr have different volumes. Different downloads and ripped cds have different volumes depending on who mastered them. Multichannel tracks have different volumes from pcm tracks. So there really is no way to truly make them all the same without altering the signal(drc), so I need to quit worrying about the volume level of the avr and just enjoy I do need to find a better solution for listening to music though. I need a way to get music from my mac to my avr or just put some decent speakers with my mac and use it for music and not my home theater.
Other ways to get audio from your computer to your receiver are to use a direct HDMI connection (for both video and multichannel audio) or to use DLNA over the network (for stereo audio).

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post #4178 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 09:10 AM
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Why can't volume just begin at 0 (dead silence) and progress from there?

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post #4179 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Erod View Post
Why can't volume just begin at 0 (dead silence) and progress from there?
I think you can change the way the volume scale works on most avrs. I know that is not what you are getting at though Some of this stuff just doesn't make sense, especially for a noob like me. For anyone just getting into home theater there is a lot to learn.
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post #4180 of 4194 Old 12-15-2017, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coxjamb View Post
I think you can change the way the volume scale works on most avrs. I know that is not what you are getting at though Some of this stuff just doesn't make sense, especially for a noob like me. For anyone just getting into home theater there is a lot to learn.
My Anthem 60 won't do it. I've been at this for 15 years, so I'm used to it, but it's just dumb.

So much of this hobby involves trying to sound smarter than we really are.

So are you in the mood for lumens, foot lamberts or nits today?
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post #4181 of 4194 Old 12-16-2017, 07:15 AM
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Most of my AVRs have not allowed you to configure the scale for things. Get used to it.

Reference volume for theaters if about 89 dB I believe. Yamaha’s scale is telling you that you’re X dB below that loud level. So when you’re playing at -20 dB, that’s intended to be 69 dB. Make sense now? Above -0 dB, you could be hurting your hearing (or your speakers, or both!).

Need to get music from your Mac to your hi-fi? Get an Apple TV. Problem solved. (More expensive than a cable, but I’m guessing you have other Apple tech, so the TV would be handy in many ways.)

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post #4182 of 4194 Old 01-13-2018, 11:21 PM
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YPAO and Subwoofer Question

Receiver - Yamaha RX-667
Subwoofer - Acoustech PL200
Mains & Center - Bic Dv62si & Dv62CLR
Surrounds - Bic Dv32s
Room - 13'*11' closed space
Room treatment - First reflection points

When I run YPAO with the sub volume set at 11 o'clock position, the sub trim is set at -7.

Then I usually check the results with the audio control spl meter app on my phone, placed exactly where the ypao mic is placed and the receiver pink noise with the main volume set at 0 on the Yamaha. All the speakers record 75db except the sub which I get 67-69 reading. If I run it 3-4 db hot(from -7 to either -4 or -3) I get a reading of 72-73db. To get 75db on the spl I have to set the sub trim to -1db, which sounds a bit hot.
I have done a sub crawl and placed the sub at the most optimal place.
Question is should I run the sub this hot to get to 75db. I know apps are not the best but why the big difference if it's reading all the other speakers to 75db as set by ypao except the sub.

Last edited by Lion Rider; 01-13-2018 at 11:27 PM.
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post #4183 of 4194 Old 01-15-2018, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion Rider View Post
Receiver - Yamaha RX-667
Subwoofer - Acoustech PL200
Mains & Center - Bic Dv62si & Dv62CLR
Surrounds - Bic Dv32s
Room - 13'*11' closed space
Room treatment - First reflection points

When I run YPAO with the sub volume set at 11 o'clock position, the sub trim is set at -7.

Then I usually check the results with the audio control spl meter app on my phone, placed exactly where the ypao mic is placed and the receiver pink noise with the main volume set at 0 on the Yamaha. All the speakers record 75db except the sub which I get 67-69 reading. If I run it 3-4 db hot(from -7 to either -4 or -3) I get a reading of 72-73db. To get 75db on the spl I have to set the sub trim to -1db, which sounds a bit hot.
I have done a sub crawl and placed the sub at the most optimal place.
Question is should I run the sub this hot to get to 75db. I know apps are not the best but why the big difference if it's reading all the other speakers to 75db as set by ypao except the sub.
The short answer is don?t trust you phone mic that much. All the other speakers operate in a similar frequency range so it?s not surprising the phone will read the same level for each but the sub doesn?t that?s where the inaccuracy of your mic will show up. If you are looking cross check or improve ypao buy a calibrated mic.
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post #4184 of 4194 Old 09-01-2018, 08:20 AM
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How to connect a bluetooth transmitter to my receiver?

I have a yamaha 667 receiver that I would like to connect a bluetooth transmitter to send sound to my bluetooth headphones.
Has anyone gotten this to work? It seems like the only sound out option is the headphone jack on the receiver (silent cinema), but If I plug the transmitter into that then the receiver audio is automatically muted, or?, if Its not muted then I can use that out put, but If that don't work is there any other outputs I can use?

I have a pair of sonys dolby surround headphones that I use independently but the bluetooth headset is for my 11 year old daughter, sometimes she likes to tag along on some late night movies watching when the others are sleeping
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post #4185 of 4194 Old 09-01-2018, 10:16 AM
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looks like your receiver has pre-outs. use the L/R for the BT transmitter. however, if you are using the headphone jack, it will automatically shut off the main amps/ including the pre outs. you might try a splitter from the headphone jack...

your sony headphones have their own transmitter?

Bottom line: you will have to duplicate an output. either the headphones or the line out.

you'll have to get a distribution amp, something like this: (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-...stribution+amp)

headphone jack ( 1/4" to stereo RCA adapter cable) > distribution amp > each transmitter... this would probably be best.

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post #4186 of 4194 Old 09-01-2018, 11:30 AM
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Thanks, but why do I need to use a splitter if I use the L/R outout? The sony headphones is independent of the receiver. I think I read from some other forum member that they could not get sound on a bluetooth headphone using the L/R white red outputs, Isn't they analog and bluetooth digital?
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post #4187 of 4194 Old 02-10-2019, 06:47 AM
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Hi. I have a Yamaha RX-V667 receiver. I also have a Vizio P55-F1 TV and an Xbox One X. I've managed to get the receiver to pass-through 4k 60 but not HDR. I understand this is because the AVR lacks HDCP 2.2 (or so I thought). To address this limitation I got a splitter that supposedly strips or downgrades the HDCP from 2.2. to 1.4. But even with this splitter in-between the Xbox and the 677 I'm still not able to get HDR. Is this some hardware limitation with the 677, I always thought that if the receiver could handle 4k 60 that it would have the bandwidth (i.e. HDMI 2.x ) to also pass-through HDR. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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post #4188 of 4194 Old 02-10-2019, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by olivesss View Post
Hi. I have a Yamaha RX-V667 receiver. I also have a Vizio P55-F1 TV and an Xbox One X. I've managed to get the receiver to pass-through 4k 60 but not HDR. I understand this is because the AVR lacks HDCP 2.2 (or so I thought). To address this limitation I got a splitter that supposedly strips or downgrades the HDCP from 2.2. to 1.4. But even with this splitter in-between the Xbox and the 677 I'm still not able to get HDR. Is this some hardware limitation with the 677, I always thought that if the receiver could handle 4k 60 that it would have the bandwidth (i.e. HDMI 2.x ) to also pass-through HDR. Any thoughts? Thanks!
You’re in the wrong topic thread, the 667 did not pass 4K as you describe.

Try posting this thread instead:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...odels-105.html

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V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 02-10-2019 at 08:20 AM.
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post #4189 of 4194 Old 02-10-2019, 08:20 AM
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Oops, sorry. Thanks for the heads-up. I'll post over there.
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If anybody wants the FWmod utility it's here:

You can change the wallpaper picture or any image in the GUI, and customize the startup message or any other front panel or GUI text strings.

Start by reading the included PDF. Ask if you have any questions.

Sorry to bring this thread back to life again but any chance you could reupload this? Takes me to a 'Generating download key' screen as if my IP has downloaded it too many times or something
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post #4191 of 4194 Old 07-17-2019, 05:37 AM
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Sorry to bring this thread back to life again but any chance you could reupload this? Takes me to a 'Generating download key' screen as if my IP has downloaded it too many times or something

The latest version of FWmod is 1.1 which you can get from here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/c5mm3q..._v1.1.zip/file

If for some reason mediafire is not working for you I could upload it somewhere else this evening, just let me know.

It would also be interesting to hear from anyone who actually used custom firmware they generated with FWmod. It's been downloaded almost 400 times, but I've no idea how many of those people actually tried it.
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
The latest version of FWmod is 1.1 which you can get from here:

If for some reason mediafire is not working for you I could upload it somewhere else this evening, just let me know.

It would also be interesting to hear from anyone who actually used custom firmware they generated with FWmod. It's been downloaded almost 400 times, but I've no idea how many of those people actually tried it.
Welp that's unfortunate

Turns out it's no good for my AVR. I have a HTR-6067 which is just a rebranded RX V677 which uses bin files for its firmware, not wav.
Was really hoping to replace that ugly piano/grey screen.

Might just buy a different one when the industry finally figures out HDR/HDMI/HDCP/ARC and gives me a GUI that doesn't look like something straight out of the 90s
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post #4193 of 4194 Old 07-18-2019, 05:03 AM
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Too bad, but as far as I know no-one has customized the models that use bin files for firmware.

But have you tried the Yamaha AV Receiver App (works on any Android or Apple device)? You can pretty much control everything without looking at that ugly background. For music I just use the App and don't even turn the TV on.
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post #4194 of 4194 Old 08-14-2019, 07:16 AM
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Hi All,


I just picked up a used HTR-6063 (Canadian model) of this receiver. I am replacing an RX-V579 for this purpose (moving that do a different system in the house).


The firmware version is 1.14 and I know there is an upgrade, but I would like some feedback before I attempt it - some things worked on the 579 that don't work correctly on this receiver and I am wondering if a firmware upgrade might fix it.



My setup is unique - I run the receiver for HT and music with separate speakers. Essentially for HT is is used as a bi-amped 5.1 system. For music I use my PMC-FB1s with the crossovers removed in 7.1 mode via HDMI PCM where the front channels drive the midrange driver and and the surround back channels drive the tweeter. The music is FLAC files pre-upsampled (with a ridiculously good filter) to 176.4/24 or 192/24 (depending on the source ). I have updated the foobar crossover plug-in and I'm using 8th order Linkwitz-Rily filter so generate the correct channels (and the driver sensitivity is taken care of as part of the with the tweeters -3.5 dB down). As well, I drive the sub channel with the below 40HZ freqs as well.


All of this worked on the 579 - I have to switch the speaker cables between the front speakers for HT and Music - but the results are great. The center and regular surrounds are always driven by the Yamaha directly and aren't present in the music 7.1 HDMI LPCM.



The HTR-6063 was interesting to me because it had pre-outs and I have some nice power amps sitting in a closet so I wanted to drive the front speakers with them. I knew before that there is no way to independently switch the amp/pre-outs on and off which would have been great as I wouldn't need to switch speaker cables, I could drive the HT from the Yahama and the music from the external amps. its fine though - I am OK with switching the cables (does firmware 2.05 have this capability?)



Before I hooked up the amps, I tried a test:


Running just like the 579 for music (with the 6063 amps in play), 7.1 normal with surrounds backs driving tweeters and fronts driving mid/low. Works in straight mode but in pure direct, the surround backs are not there at all. I tried 5.1 material in pure direct and the normal surround channels are definitely there in pure direct mode - this seems to be a bug as it works correctly on the 579, Can anyone with fw 2.05 and actual surround back speakers confirm they work in pure direct with 7.1 material?


The next test was to hook up the power amps to the front and surround back channels. In pure direct this works for music (and it was ridiculously good) - so the pre-outs are correctly present on surround back in pure direct mode even though the speaker outs are not. The downside here is when I switch back to HT by switching speakers and setting the yamaha to bi-amp - the surrounds back pre-out have no signal, unlike the amplified versions which match the fronts for bi-amping. Also curious with anyone with fw 2.05 if when in b-amp mode the surround back pre-outs match the fronts so you can externally bi-amp.



As it stands, I have stopped bi-amping the HT speakers (leaving one external amp off), and then switch only one cable for music (leaving the other cables permanently connected to the music speakers and turned on the second external amp in this case)



Since updating firmware on this model is such a pain - I would like to confirm if any of these issues are fixed in the latest firmware. The first issue is not an issue on the RX-V579 so it sounds like they have software that does the right thing...and yes I know this all sounds crazy - but removing the crossovers was a huge leap in quality - and I can change crossover points and sensitivities and use different drivers.


...[edit] I also found 2.06, 2.11, 2.12 firmwares - has anyone successfully tried these on a North American HTR-6063? Thanks!

Last edited by samymesbah; 08-15-2019 at 04:47 AM.
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