The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX13 Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 398 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11911 of 11949 Old 06-25-2019, 10:36 AM
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Hey guys. Not sure if I should start my own troubleshooting thread but it does pertain to Denon AVR 1613 so here goes...

I've owned the 1613 receiver for six or seven years and never had a problem, ever, until last month. The cable/sat HDMI port would not play audio, but shows video just fine. I simply switched the HDMI port and leave cable/sat unused. This week something else happened, possibly related but am unsure. My powered subwoofer, an aging Atlantic 352 PBM, suddenly stopped waking up from standby. I have a small child who loves remotes and may have changed some settings, so that was my first step, but nothing appeared different. I then began the Audyssey setup and noticed upon completion that the subwoofer, in standby, is not detected. I unplugged the sub out rca cable from the receiver and touched the cable end, no dice. However, the subwoofer pops on if I touch the cable end to the outside edge of the sub out jack on the receiver, whether the receiver is on or off. If I quickly repeat the Audyssey setup while the sub is active, the receiver will detect the sub in-menu, but still doesn't send a signal during movies or games. I was able to bump the source input up and set the speakers to small/lfe+main and occasionally get it to wake up, but not how it normally would. I tried all of this over again after a reset of the microprocessor to no avail.

This subwoofer has variable input - should I use it, or just straight THX?

Thanks in advance. Does this seem like human error or more like a part of my hardware failing?
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post #11912 of 11949 Old 06-25-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohm it hertz View Post
Hey guys. Not sure if I should start my own troubleshooting thread but it does pertain to Denon AVR 1613 so here goes...

I've owned the 1613 receiver for six or seven years and never had a problem, ever, until last month. The cable/sat HDMI port would not play audio, but shows video just fine. I simply switched the HDMI port and leave cable/sat unused. This week something else happened, possibly related but am unsure. My powered subwoofer, an aging Atlantic 352 PBM, suddenly stopped waking up from standby. I have a small child who loves remotes and may have changed some settings, so that was my first step, but nothing appeared different. I then began the Audyssey setup and noticed upon completion that the subwoofer, in standby, is not detected. I unplugged the sub out rca cable from the receiver and touched the cable end, no dice. However, the subwoofer pops on if I touch the cable end to the outside edge of the sub out jack on the receiver, whether the receiver is on or off. If I quickly repeat the Audyssey setup while the sub is active, the receiver will detect the sub in-menu, but still doesn't send a signal during movies or games. I was able to bump the source input up and set the speakers to small/lfe+main and occasionally get it to wake up, but not how it normally would. I tried all of this over again after a reset of the microprocessor to no avail.

This subwoofer has variable input - should I use it, or just straight THX?

Thanks in advance. Does this seem like human error or more like a part of my hardware failing?
I'm assuming the sub doesn't have an always on mode?

Have you reset the receiver?
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post #11913 of 11949 Old 06-25-2019, 02:30 PM
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So, still not sure from my last post if the rated wattage of the 1713 is RMS or Max...would be cool if anyone knew.

But on to my next question...

I ended up with a second set of Sony SS-CS5's...and now I'm thinking about connecting them in along with the other set.
I'm having trouble finding out if the Denon would handle the 12ohm load well or not though (I'm assuming 3ohms would be too low).
What do you all think? I'm going to test it out and see what I think...I'm just worried about the load on the amp, I need the expert advice

When using zone 2 would it simply be the L/R channels that are output if set to the same source as the main source?
If so, I could potentially get my hands on a stereo amp to power the second set.

Thanks for any help!

Edit: I'm finding mention that it is capable of handling 16ohm impedance so it's time for the sound test!

What do you guys think the rms power output at 12ohms would be?

Last edited by conradcliff; 06-25-2019 at 02:40 PM.
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post #11914 of 11949 Old 06-25-2019, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by conradcliff View Post

I'm assuming the sub doesn't have an always on mode?

Have you reset the receiver?
I downloaded the manual from Atlantic and there isn't a switch or mode that I can see. I did reset the receiver at least once.
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post #11915 of 11949 Old 06-25-2019, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conradcliff View Post
So, still not sure from my last post if the rated wattage of the 1713 is RMS or Max...would be cool if anyone knew.

But on to my next question...

I ended up with a second set of Sony SS-CS5's...and now I'm thinking about connecting them in along with the other set.
I'm having trouble finding out if the Denon would handle the 12ohm load well or not though (I'm assuming 3ohms would be too low).
What do you all think? I'm going to test it out and see what I think...I'm just worried about the load on the amp, I need the expert advice

When using zone 2 would it simply be the L/R channels that are output if set to the same source as the main source?
If so, I could potentially get my hands on a stereo amp to power the second set.

Thanks for any help!

Edit: I'm finding mention that it is capable of handling 16ohm impedance so it's time for the sound test!

What do you guys think the rms power output at 12ohms would be?
1. Moot point as the unit will likely never be powered that high.
2. Denon models are designed to power 6-16 ohm speakers, but even 4-ohm can be powered at moderate volume levels.
3. Yes, especially considering on the lower level models like the 1713, only a 2CH analog audio signal can pass to Zone 2.
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post #11916 of 11949 Old 06-26-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Moot point as the unit will likely never be powered that high.
2. Denon models are designed to power 6-16 ohm speakers, but even 4-ohm can be powered at moderate volume levels.
3. Yes, especially considering on the lower level models like the 1713, only a 2CH analog audio signal can pass to Zone 2.
Thanks again for all the replies.

I don't understand number 1. Currently I want to turn the volume up well past the 80 mark where you told me I have to stay under so I may upgrade to speakers that can handle more power. Without knowing if the receiver is outputting in RMS or Max how can I know what speakers to get to match up to the rated power? I really just don't understand what you mean or why the question would be a moot one...it just seems like a really reasonable question to me and I can't find info on it anywhere.

2. I was able to find that the receiver can run at 16 ohms. Do you have any idea what the power output would be at 12 ohms? I'm really curious if doubling up the speakers and cranking the volume will get me the sound output I'm craving.

3. Ok, so are you saying that the Zone 2 output will be the same exact signal as the L/R from the 5.1 channel signal being processed by the receiver?

Thanks for any more info you can give me on this.

I was going to test the 2 speaker setup, but I don't want to break the other pair of speakers out of the box since it is unopened and I'd like to keep it that way in case I decide to sell them. I though about disconnecting the left speaker and testing the right channel but I wasn't sure if the power output would go up since I wouldn't be driving as many channels which would skew the results.
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post #11917 of 11949 Old 06-26-2019, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by conradcliff View Post
Thanks again for all the replies.

I don't understand number 1. Currently I want to turn the volume up well past the 80 mark where you told me I have to stay under so I may upgrade to speakers that can handle more power. Without knowing if the receiver is outputting in RMS or Max how can I know what speakers to get to match up to the rated power? I really just don't understand what you mean or why the question would be a moot one...it just seems like a really reasonable question to me and I can't find info on it anywhere.

2. I was able to find that the receiver can run at 16 ohms. Do you have any idea what the power output would be at 12 ohms? I'm really curious if doubling up the speakers and cranking the volume will get me the sound output I'm craving.

3. Ok, so are you saying that the Zone 2 output will be the same exact signal as the L/R from the 5.1 channel signal being processed by the receiver?

Thanks for any more info you can give me on this.

I was going to test the 2 speaker setup, but I don't want to break the other pair of speakers out of the box since it is unopened and I'd like to keep it that way in case I decide to sell them. I though about disconnecting the left speaker and testing the right channel but I wasn't sure if the power output would go up since I wouldn't be driving as many channels which would skew the results.
1. Without measuring equipment, you'll never know how much power the speaker is drawing from the AVR as it will change because the impedance changes based on the audio received.
2. No.
3. Nope. If a 5.1 source signal is received via HDMI and playing in the main zone, there must ALSO be an analog cable from the source that is passing 2.0 stereo in order for it to pass to Zone 2, otherwise, the only other option is to select "ALL ZONE STEREO" which down mixes the main zone to stereo as well.

https://www.the-home-cinema-guide.co...explained.html

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post #11918 of 11949 Old 06-27-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by conradcliff View Post
I see! and is that RMS wattage as well?

Thank you for all the help!

Power ratings for audio amplifiers are not measured in watts RMS even if those units are given by mistake. Power is for example, current RMS x voltage RMS = power, this is not equal to power (watts) RMS.
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post #11919 of 11949 Old 07-03-2019, 06:08 PM
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Any thoughts about the problem I posted above? Thanks for any input.
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post #11920 of 11949 Old 07-04-2019, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohm it hertz View Post
Hey guys. Not sure if I should start my own troubleshooting thread but it does pertain to Denon AVR 1613 so here goes...

I've owned the 1613 receiver for six or seven years and never had a problem, ever, until last month. The cable/sat HDMI port would not play audio, but shows video just fine. I simply switched the HDMI port and leave cable/sat unused. This week something else happened, possibly related but am unsure. My powered subwoofer, an aging Atlantic 352 PBM, suddenly stopped waking up from standby. I have a small child who loves remotes and may have changed some settings, so that was my first step, but nothing appeared different. I then began the Audyssey setup and noticed upon completion that the subwoofer, in standby, is not detected. I unplugged the sub out rca cable from the receiver and touched the cable end, no dice. However, the subwoofer pops on if I touch the cable end to the outside edge of the sub out jack on the receiver, whether the receiver is on or off. If I quickly repeat the Audyssey setup while the sub is active, the receiver will detect the sub in-menu, but still doesn't send a signal during movies or games. I was able to bump the source input up and set the speakers to small/lfe+main and occasionally get it to wake up, but not how it normally would. I tried all of this over again after a reset of the microprocessor to no avail.

This subwoofer has variable input - should I use it, or just straight THX?

Thanks in advance. Does this seem like human error or more like a part of my hardware failing?
Prior to running Audyssey, adjust the sub's gain knob to about 9 o'clock (or roughly 25% of maximum). Run Audyssey. The Subwoofer level result should be about -6dB or so (although as long as it's not -12dB you're good to go; of it is -12dB, then lower the sub gain knob to about 7 o'clock and run Audyssey again). Then go to Manual Setup on the AVR and raise the subwoofer level so it's somewhere within -3dB to 0dB which will help ensure the sub powers on when a signal is sent to it). It's also possible you have a defective sub cable so try replacing it as well.
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post #11921 of 11949 Old 07-08-2019, 03:31 PM
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Question

Hello all,

I have been running these Scott Pro-100bs with a 1913 for a number of years and everything has been fine. Recently, I added in a Polk PSW-10 and a Dayton Audio CCS-33B I picked up for $40. Of course, I re-ran Audyssey and things sound much better for sure.

What I am curious about first and foremost is what I can do to protect the amp and the Scotts, as the Scotts are 4-Ohm speakers. Secondly, my crossovers sound good to me with music, TV and movies (I have adjusted all individually through the webconfig applying Quick Selects and then coding them to my Harmony), but I could easily be missing something. Third, how concerned should I be about wrecking that poor little Dayton (I think I popped the crossover back down to 120)? Last, I am really quite confused about how to set-up the Scotts with the Polk. The Scotts are capable of 40hz (indeed, set as Small the amp gives me the option), but I have them cut at 60 thinking this added a layer of protection; I also do not apply LFE+Main as I read somewhere reputable that this can create some undesired phase effects (that is not to say I could not be convinced otherwise). I am sure I have a lot more questions, but this will do for starters. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]

I have attached some screenshots for your perusal.


P.S. I am well aware that I should run these Scotts in stereo with their own dedicated pre-amp/amp, but that is a spendy proposition (4K TV/AVR, replacement mains before I could even start down that path) that simply is not in any near-future plans.
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Last edited by Ryan25; 07-09-2019 at 06:38 AM. Reason: Clarification
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post #11922 of 11949 Old 07-09-2019, 02:24 AM
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Hello all,

I have been running with this set-up for a number of years and everything has been fine. Recently, I added in a Polk PSW-10 and a Dayton Audio CCS-33B I picked up for $40. Of course, I re-ran Audyssey and things sound much better for sure.

What I am curious about first and foremost is what I can do to protect the amp and the Scotts, as the Scotts are 4-Ohm speakers. Secondly, my crossovers sound good to me with music, TV and movies (I have adjusted all individually through the webconfig applying Quick Selects and then coding them to my Harmony), but I could easily be missing something. Third, how concerned should I be about wrecking that poor little Dayton (I think I popped the crossover back down to 120)? Last, I am really quite confused about how to set-up the Scotts with the Polk. The Scotts are capable of 40hz (indeed, set as Small the amp gives me the option), but I have them cut at 60 thinking this added a layer of protection; I also do not apply LFE+Main as I read somewhere reputable that this can create some undesired phase effects (that is not to say I could not be convinced otherwise). I am sure I have a lot more questions, but this will do for starters.
Note that you didn't mention what model AVR you are using.

1. Don't raise the volume of the AVR above moderate TV listening levels.
2. If the crossovers as set after running Audyssey sound good, then no reason to change them.
3. As the majority of the audio passes through the center speaker, it should be the best quality or at least similar quality as the Front L/R speakers. Never lower the crossover set after running Audyssey. Refer to answer 1.
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post #11923 of 11949 Old 07-09-2019, 06:53 AM
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Thanks jds, that is all very helpful (post has been updated, it’s the 1913).

The furthest it ever gets pushed is +5 for music and only for like one song, otherwise it’s at 0 or less (I am usually sitting outside when listening to music, hence the higher levels). Movies occasionally get pushed to -5, but in our teeny room, that high is usually unbearable, TV is -20 - -15. Are these values too high? Maybe it’s just time to turn the limiter on and get rid of the risk.

I believe Audyssey tuned the C to 120, I bumped it when I was fiddling with the other crossovers and never bumped it back down. I’m in no position to upgrade anything at the moment, but adding a C for $15 was too good to resist. That would likely have been the next upgrade, so it’s good to have confirmation. When I adjust dialogue, I’m essentially sending more or less power right? Should I be concerned about those adjustments (I think I only ticked it up from -3 - -1)?

No commentary on the final question, should I assume that is you reiterating to leave stuff alone after Audyssey?

Thanks for your time!
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post #11924 of 11949 Old 07-09-2019, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan25 View Post
Thanks jds, that is all very helpful (post has been updated, it’s the 1913).

The furthest it ever gets pushed is +5 for music and only for like one song, otherwise it’s at 0 or less (I am usually sitting outside when listening to music, hence the higher levels). Movies occasionally get pushed to -5, but in our teeny room, that high is usually unbearable, TV is -20 - -15. Are these values too high? Maybe it’s just time to turn the limiter on and get rid of the risk.

I believe Audyssey tuned the C to 120, I bumped it when I was fiddling with the other crossovers and never bumped it back down. I’m in no position to upgrade anything at the moment, but adding a C for $15 was too good to resist. That would likely have been the next upgrade, so it’s good to have confirmation. When I adjust dialogue, I’m essentially sending more or less power right? Should I be concerned about those adjustments (I think I only ticked it up from -3 - -1)?

No commentary on the final question, should I assume that is you reiterating to leave stuff alone after Audyssey?

Thanks for your time!
1. If you don't hear any distortion or the 1913 is not shutting down in protection mode at the higher volume level (ie. +5dB), then no worries, although anything less obviously puts lets strain on the amps.
2. Center crossover should remain at 120Hz.
3. Correct. The <Dialog Level> setting simply adjusts the volume of the center speaker. Adjust to suit your preference.
4. Nope. Simply means the settings you have selected are the ones generally recommended.
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post #11925 of 11949 Old 07-09-2019, 03:30 PM
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Thanks jds, that is all very helpful (post has been updated, it&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;s the 1913).

The furthest it ever gets pushed is +5 for music and only for like one song, otherwise it&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;s at 0 or less (I am usually sitting outside when listening to music, hence the higher levels). Movies occasionally get pushed to -5, but in our teeny room, that high is usually unbearable, TV is -20 - -15. Are these values too high? Maybe it&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;s just time to turn the limiter on and get rid of the risk.

I believe Audyssey tuned the C to 120, I bumped it when I was fiddling with the other crossovers and never bumped it back down. I&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;m in no position to upgrade anything at the moment, but adding a C for $15 was too good to resist. That would likely have been the next upgrade, so it&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;s good to have confirmation. When I adjust dialogue, I&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;m essentially sending more or less power right? Should I be concerned about those adjustments (I think I only ticked it up from -3 - -1)?

No commentary on the final question, should I assume that is you reiterating to leave stuff alone after Audyssey?

Thanks for your time!
1. If you don't hear any distortion or the 1913 is not shutting down in protection mode at the higher volume level (ie. +5dB), then no worries, although anything less obviously puts lets strain on the amps.
2. Center crossover should remain at 120Hz.
3. Correct. The <Dialog Level> setting simply adjusts the volume of the center speaker. Adjust to suit your preference.
4. Nope. Simply means the settings you have selected are the ones generally recommended.
Great, thanks again! I’ll be back when it’s time to upgrade. &#x1f642;
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post #11926 of 11949 Old 07-11-2019, 06:57 PM
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My subwoofer isn't detected in Audyssey unless I tap the cable end. Secondly, my subwoofer only kicks on in test tone at a very high setting (9.5). I'm still lost at what's wrong from my previous posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #11927 of 11949 Old 07-12-2019, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ohm it hertz View Post
My subwoofer isn't detected in Audyssey unless I tap the cable end. Secondly, my subwoofer only kicks on in test tone at a very high setting (9.5). I'm still lost at what's wrong from my previous posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like either a defective sub cable or a loose sub pre-out jack. Did you try the suggestions I provided in my last post to you?
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post #11928 of 11949 Old 07-16-2019, 11:19 AM
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Is there a way to add an iHeartradio station to the list of stations I play on my 2113ci?

Specifically, WOR and WRKO.

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post #11929 of 11949 Old 07-16-2019, 11:19 AM
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iHeartradio on older Denon

EDIT: Woops - don't know why this posted twice...

Is there a way to add an iHeartradio station to the list of stations I play on my 2113ci?

Specifically, WOR and WRKO.

LG OLED65C7 | Denon S930H | Klipsch 5.1 setup - 2 Forte - 1 R-25C - 2 R-14S
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post #11930 of 11949 Old 07-16-2019, 11:24 AM
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Is there a way to add an iHeartradio station to the list of stations I play on my 2113ci?

Specifically, WOR and WRKO.
2113CI or the S930H, as iHeartRadio is not supported by non-HEOS models.

If you are referring to adding Internet Radio stations using vTuner on the 2113CI, refer to p. 49 of the 2113CI Owner's manual.

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post #11931 of 11949 Old 07-16-2019, 12:08 PM
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2113CI or the S930H, as iHeartRadio is not supported by non-HEOS models.

If you are referring to adding Internet Radio stations using vTuner on the 2113CI, refer to p. 49 of the 2113CI Owner's manual.
Thanks.

I have the 2113ci in my backyard shed now for some outdoor speakers. I have an S930H indoors.

Looks like I'm out of luck then with iHeartradio outside - as neither station can be found at vTuner. (I checked p. 49 earlier.)

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post #11932 of 11949 Old 07-17-2019, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Athlon646464 View Post
Thanks.

I have the 2113ci in my backyard shed now for some outdoor speakers. I have an S930H indoors.

Looks like I'm out of luck then with iHeartradio outside - as neither station can be found at vTuner. (I checked p. 49 earlier.)
Although a bit more labor intensive, you should be able to stream the station from their website on a mobile device or computer, and then Airplay or otherwise mirror it to the AVR.

Also, another option ….http://vtuner.com/setupapp/guide/asp...eststation.asp

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 07-17-2019 at 03:05 AM.
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post #11933 of 11949 Old 07-17-2019, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although a bit more labor intensive, you should be able to stream the station from their website on a mobile device or computer, and then Airplay or otherwise mirror it to the AVR.

Also, another option ….http://vtuner.com/setupapp/guide/asp...eststation.asp
Airplay will work for me - thanks again.

As for the form at vTuner - I'll fill it out, but I may not hold my breath waiting on that.

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post #11934 of 11949 Old 07-20-2019, 01:33 PM
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Hi, I currently have an AVR 1911 set up in my family room, but we've been thinking about setting up a TV in another room as well. I found a really good deal on the AVR 1913, but the seller does not have the Audyssey setup mic that came with it. However, I do have the setup mic that came with my 1911. My question is: can I use the 1911 setup mic with the 1913, or does the mic need to be specific to the model? Thank you.
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post #11935 of 11949 Old 07-20-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronin820 View Post
Hi, I currently have an AVR 1911 set up in my family room, but we've been thinking about setting up a TV in another room as well. I found a really good deal on the AVR 1913, but the seller does not have the Audyssey setup mic that came with it. However, I do have the setup mic that came with my 1911. My question is: can I use the 1911 setup mic with the 1913, or does the mic need to be specific to the model? Thank you.
Yes.
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post #11936 of 11949 Old 08-15-2019, 10:26 AM
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Issue with Denon AVR1713 and Mac Mini

I've had a perfectly working setup for years and now something has happened, but I can't figure out where the problem is.

Equipment:
Denon AVR 1713
Sony VPL-HS51 Projector
25ft HDMI cable between the Denon and Sony
2011 Mac Mini
XBOX 360
Oppo DVD player

The situation:

When selecting the Mac Mini as a source on the Denon AVR 1713, the desktop displays for a split second and then goes blank. If I switch to a difference source and then go back to the mac, it once again shows the desktop for a split second and then nothing.

I've tried different HDMI cables between the Mac and the Denon and putting the Mac into different HDMI inputs on the Denon and the results are the same.

Switching to either the xbox or oppo dvd player works as it used to and display on the projector without issue.

If I plug the 25' HDMI cable directly into the mac, it works. This would indicate the projector is not at fault.

If I replace the output on the Denon from the projector to a 24" monitor with HDMI input, I can see the mac desktop again and it doesn't go blank.

I have a 2nd mac mini that I've also tried this with, and the results are the same. When directly connected to the projector, it works. When connected to the Denon, the desktop displays for a split second and then nothing.

Truly bizarre!
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post #11937 of 11949 Old 08-20-2019, 08:26 AM
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A quick update:

When I hooked up my Apple TV directly to the projector and tried to play some content via Netflix I received an HDCP error message. This was the moment that I realized the projector was the common denominator in this problem.

I ordered an HDMI splitter from Amazon that is known to strip the HDCP data before sending the output signal and this is working great. Now everything is working once again via the Denon receiver and all is well.

Cheers.
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post #11938 of 11949 Old 09-03-2019, 06:53 PM
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Hello all,


I'm having an odd issue with my old trusty AVR-1913. For the past month or so, I've had to raise the volume to about 50 or so to get "reasonable" volume levels while watching TV off the STB (and no, it's not my ears! *shakes cane* lol) I tried doing network reset, full reset, leaving it unplugged, re-running Audyssey, etc all to no avail. The network card on this thing died about 4 years ago. Is it worth just scrapping it? I mean it still *works* it's just not running at 100% anymore and I know there are newer and greater models out there.

Side thought - is it possible the cause is not the AVR but the speakers? I am running Polk 30 series II for the surrounds, CS2 series II for the center and (shame!) a PSW10 I never hooked up for the sub.

Anyway, let me know if all of that makes sense. It's been a long time since I really did any heavy research into AV equipment other than enterprise video conferencing stuff, so I'm completely out of the loop.


Thanks!
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post #11939 of 11949 Old 09-04-2019, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DJLittleMike View Post
Hello all,


I'm having an odd issue with my old trusty AVR-1913. For the past month or so, I've had to raise the volume to about 50 or so to get "reasonable" volume levels while watching TV off the STB (and no, it's not my ears! *shakes cane* lol) I tried doing network reset, full reset, leaving it unplugged, re-running Audyssey, etc all to no avail. The network card on this thing died about 4 years ago. Is it worth just scrapping it? I mean it still *works* it's just not running at 100% anymore and I know there are newer and greater models out there.

Side thought - is it possible the cause is not the AVR but the speakers? I am running Polk 30 series II for the surrounds, CS2 series II for the center and (shame!) a PSW10 I never hooked up for the sub.

Anyway, let me know if all of that makes sense. It's been a long time since I really did any heavy research into AV equipment other than enterprise video conferencing stuff, so I'm completely out of the loop.


Thanks!
In most cases, the volume is just acceptable at 50 with 50-60 being average listening level, so nothing wrong there.

You may have previously had Dynamic Volume enabled (which would allow for a lower master volume setting) and now it is disabled.
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post #11940 of 11949 Old 09-04-2019, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
In most cases, the volume is just acceptable at 50 with 50-60 being average listening level, so nothing wrong there.

You may have previously had Dynamic Volume enabled (which would allow for a lower master volume setting) and now it is disabled.

Oh, I didn't think about that. I'll have to take a look. If I find that DV is enabled still, is that an issue?
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