If the subs are indeed the same distance from the MLP, then Audyssey should set their distances the same. And yes, if you change the sub polarity, then you should re-run Audyssey.

Yesterday, I did re-run Audyssey.


My wife got tired to help me carry the 35" monitor ( most of the time, Audyssey pick the noise fan from the front projector), the from the rec room into the Home Theater.
So she bought me a 19" for those few time , I do a calibration

This time the results were 8.3 feet for both subs, 1 db difference between them.


I think the first time was, I forgot to tell the AV8801, that I had two subs.
Second time, the phase was at 0, but forgot to turn-off the Butt kickers in the main chairs, may this was the problem?


So third time was a charm


All is good, except for the Auto turn On, no longer turn on the power amp.
I went in the menu for the trigger input/output, and every thing show on, so who know?
At least, I can always turn the Amp manually


Again, Thanks for all your help.


Ray

Nice job, Ray. As for the trigger, it should be working. Check the menu and the cable.

Thanks


I do intend to re-check the menu since I believe the problem is in the setting somewhere.


I do not think it is the trigger cable since my equipment is in wall, and nobody goes their (utility room for the furnace and water heater) other than me.
But to make sure, I will check-it with an Ohm meter.


Just for your info, on the second run, the second sub volume was extremely low.
So Audyssey mic could have pick the vibrations from the chair.


At least, it is now done




Ray

Last up-date.


It's now working


Ray

Could someone please tell me how to set-up my 8801 to receive Spotify? I don't see it on the apps screen.

Was it previously hidden? (p. 135 Owner's manual) If yes, you will need to set it to INPUTS - HIDE Sources - Spotify - SHOW.

Thanks JD. I will see if that is the problem.


BTW, does AVS still sell lamps for the Marantz VP15s1 ? If so would you please PM me with your price?

I am going to ask a question, that more than likely the answer is No.


Since, I believe there is no stupid question, only the one not ask!


Here's my situation;
2 subs calibrated with Audyssey with 2 different XLR cables.
From the second sub output (after calibration), the signal goes to another XLR cable that supplied the power for a couple Tactile Transducers, BK in my case.


Here's the problem;
The signal going to the TT is after calibration, so there might/will be some boost and cut to the signal.


Is there any way to get a third output for the bass that is un-calibrated? And change volume has you increase/decrease the volume?


I do expect the answer to be No, but sometime, who knows


Ray

Not without passing an un-calibrated signal to both sub pre-outs no (ie. disabling Audyssey).

I thought so
It would be a nice option for those of us, that use a/some TT in there system.


I am going to look for a mixing/equalizer, and try to make it a flat signal from there (looking at what kind of signal is boost/cut from a test CD at each frequencies).


Back to drawing board


Thanks, for the reply.


Ray

Don't think it's going to make that much difference. You still have independent volume control on each sub pre-out so you can simply increase the volume if necessary on the pre-out going to the TT if necessary.

First, thanks for your thought


My main problem is;
The TT bottom out on very low and heavy bass movies, not often, but sometime.


I think, I do not have enough power and the TT goes out of control to be brought back.
Some members think, it could be too much power/or the power is taken away from the adjustment done by Audyssey (too much boost at certain low frequencies).


A pro amp, might fix the power issue, and maybe not
(about double the power, 3DB)
So, logic said, to try to fix the frequencies issues.


From your previous respond, I am wrong and should learn to live my TT bottoming out once in a while (not often).
Or fixing a certain boost (unknown at this point), could maybe fix the situation
Moot situation, or can it be fix (the TT are set fairly low, just enough to feel them)?


After all, it is only chasing the White Rabbit


Edit for my signal flow;
AV8801 sub out 1, to the first sub,
then AV8801 sub out 2 to, the second sub,
From the second sub output (the PB13-Ultra have sub output signal and most sub do now a day) to the SMS-1 for volume control duty,
then a splitter from the SMS-1 to the 2 mono amps,
then the normal speaker wires to the BK from each amp.




Ray

I bought my 8801 3 years in June and have not had any problems until now. It is minor but annoying. I really just use this to watch Blu-rays and Satellite TV and about 45 minutes after turning it on it 'loses' whichever input it was on and it displays the "Marantz" logo. After I re-select whichever input source I was watching everything returns to normal.


I tried unplugging it for 10 minutes but that didn't help. I will confess to NOT observing what input etc. is on the display before I select the source I was viewing. I do still have 2 years of an extended warranty but so far this is a simple enough fix that I do not want to send this out for weeks to get repaired although if this gets worse...

Try turning off the HDMI CEC control features if you are not using them on your devices. The TV (or by hitting the wrong button on a remote) maybe sending a signal through the HDMI return channel telling it to switch inputs. SJ

You should try a hard reset too. In your table of contents it is listed as resetting the microprocessor on page 186. Turn off the unit and then turn on pressing on and game and sleep buttons at the same time

Ah thanks, I hadn't thought of that, do I need to re-run Audyssey after a hard reset? Page 186 doesn't indicate.

Yes, you lose all the configuration settings, including the Audyssey calibration. To get everything back to the way it was manually takes a bit of time. However, if you save your configuration by running a network configuration save, then you can re-load the configuration after the microprocessor rest and be right back to where you were, including preserving the Audyssey calibration. Everyone should have a saved configuration to allow for an easy restore.

Instructions are here: Network configuration load/save.

I realize that the following question may have been answered several times.
With over 400 pages I thought I may have a hard time finding the answer, so I apologize in advance.

A sticker on the cover page of the 8801 manual says "
Upscaling Pass Through GUI Overlay with a screen and inside the screen it states 4K Video.

Is the 8801 a true 4K video processor or does it upscale ?

Thanks,

Greg

Greg ,

I am sure that Jerry will answer that question as I don't know...I do use it with an upscaling Sony 4K TV...he is definitely our resident expert even though he owns the newer 8802...We are very lucky to have him on this thread!!

He has helped me on many various issues and his helpful signature links are amazing!

Cheers,
Larry

Not sure what you mean by a "true 4K video processor", but the 8801 can upscale an incoming signal to 4K, and it will pass a 4K signal if you have a 4K source device. However, as I recall, the 8801 is not HDMI 2.0, nor does it support HDCP 2.2. If you plan on purchasing a 4K source device like a UHD player, then the player will need to be connected directly to a HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 compliant port on your display, bypassing the 8801. This is why I upgraded to the AVP8802A.

Not sure why you would ever want to up-scale to 4K in the AVP, since up-scaling is best left to the TV.

From page 130 of the users guide:

Unfortunately that didn't solve my problem either, I guess will live with it until it happens more frequently. I still have almost 2 years left on my extended warranty and this I can put up with for now.


Thanks for the ideas and now I have learned how to save my config.

Guys,

Good thing I bought my 8801 from authorized dealer last year on closeout sale! The two HDMI outputs started blanking out when both connected to 2 displays..$285 repair..covered by marantz..

Vince

I haven't checked my speaker levels in probably a couple of years and thought it might be a good time to do so.

Found my front left to be much lower than the others. Swapped the output cables between front left and front right and the front left speaker was as loud as it should be. This tells me that its not the speaker or the amplifier. Returned the output cables to their original position.

Using an SPL meter, I raised the left front channel to match the others by adding something like 5 to 8 dbs in the speaker setup menu.

Now it sounds ok but I'm thinking that I should save the settings, do a hard reset and reload the settings to see if I have a hardware or settings memory problem. Problem is if the settings were corrupted, it would seem that I'd just be reloading the corrupted settings.

On the other hand, I could do a hard reset and rerun audyssey and see what I get.

Just asking if there is really any point in doing any of this or just keep using it and check the speaker level periodically? I'm pretty sure the warranty is expired so its not like I'm in a time crunch to get a warranty repair.

Just checked the Marantz website. 3 year warranty unless its a Reference unit. Is the 8801 considered a reference unit?

I would do the following:

- Save the settings using the network save functionality.
- Perform a hard reset
- Reload settings
- Run a fresh Audyssey calibration
- Check the post-calibration speaker levels

If you still have a level issue, I would start to think you may have developed a hardware issue.

How does AV8801 calibrate bass? How is it different from sub's own autocalibration?
I know for sure the AV8801 does:
1) Measures distance to each sub (for some reason it shows almost twice the actual distance, but I dont change that);
2) Overall volume of the sub output, for each sub.
But does it measure and adjust standing waves and bumps in certain sub frequency ranges, lets say it detects a 5dB bump in 40hz and attenuates that and a slump in 25hz to 30hz? Does it do that?

1-Audyssey sets unique distances for each sub. Remember, "distance" is really "delay". Because of the internal electronics of the sub, the delay set by Audyssey is typically larger than the actual physical distance. This is perfectly normal, and should not be modified.

2-Audyssey also sets unique trims for each sub.

In addition, Audyssey measures the F3 of the sub (the frequency at which the sub's response is -3dB). Filters are created down to the sub's F3, but not below. For the entire corrected frequency range, Audyssey will attempt to correct the peaks and dips in the in-room sub response. However, there are limitations to how much correction Audyssey can apply. For example, boost is limited to 10dB. Also, if Audyssey detects a non-minimum phase region (i.e a non-correctable null), it won't try to fix it. So, the only real way to assess how well Audyssey is correcting the bass region is to measure with a tool like REW. With REW, you can also determine proper sub placement, which can make a huge contribution to the overall sub response.

Thanks for the outstanding answer. I have a follow up question.
The AV8801 has Dynamic Equalization feature. It is outstanding. My audiophile friends tell me to turn it off for music, but it is precisely music where it shines. If turned on it adds a tremendous amount of bass to the sound. That can be easily corrected by turning down the sub level. But here is the thing. If I turn Dynamic Equalization off (which decreases the bass volume) and increase sub volume the AV8801 will create an equal amount of bass, but it is not as good. It is hard to explain, but with DE it is lifelike, natural, punchy. I can bump up sub level to obscene levels without the DE, there will be a lot of it, but it is not as enjoyable. So, I keep it always on. In all honesty, this feature alone is worth the money
Here is the question. How does Dynamic Equalization work? In conjunction with the Audyssey measurements? Does it analyze signal it is outputting?

If you go to the Audyssey thread you will find a document called the "Audyssey FAQ" which has a good explanation of how DEQ works. Personally, I think turning DEQ on, rather than leaving it off and increasing the sub trim, is more desirable. Don't listen to your friends--experiment and go with what sounds best to you. I think DEQ does a fine job.

Hi Friends! I recently bought Marantz AV8801 which got delivered last night. I thought I can quickly connect it to my TV(Sony XBR65800B) and set up the speaker config. But, It turned out to be a different kind of troubleshooting session. I was not able to get the video working through HDMI(monitor 1 and 2). Every time I tried, it switched from HDMI to Analog. So component cable was able to get the video working. I am clearly bummed here. Also, I am very new to this.
I thought that there was no video source input to the receiver that is why it was not showing anything. So, I connected my Oppo 105 HDMI out to BluRay IN on receiver and HDMI Monitor 1 out ( I tried monitor 2 also) to TV. This didn't help either. When I by-pass receiver go directly from OPPO to TV, I can see the home screen. I would really appreciate any input here.

P.S. I also tried factory reset that didn't help either.