A few thoughts,
Back in the early 90's, I had a pair of pro-sound 3- way speakers with both full range inputs and ACTIVE bi-amp inputs on a different input panel. To get to those active bi-amp inputs, you had to removed a screwed down panel that covered them. That plate also had large warning statements about reading the manual and you can blow the mid/tweet drivers if you do it worng.
I actively bi-amped the speakers as a protection system. The speakers handled 1,000 watts of power as a full range but the mid/high section of the speaker was rated for 250 watts with the LF at 1,000 watts. I crossed to the mid/tweet section at 500 Hz actively and set the limiter at 250 watts. The other channel of the amp provided 750 watts to the low frequency drivers and I was done. The entire point of me doing this was not "sound quality" but to protect the mids/highs from bad things that happen when you have idiots using microphones. When a intoxicated fool points the vocal microphone directly at the large horn sort of feedback situation--a 1,000 watt amp will happily clip as it throws max power into feedback--not a good beat you can dance to either.
At least with a limiter on the mid/high section, the mids could handle that and the highs being much more efficient had an L-pad to scrub power going to the high frequency section. This was done purely to protect the mid/high section from excessive power.
Now I did screw around with the Lf to mid crossover point, found I could drop the crossover point down to 300 Hz and increase the filter from 12dB/Oct to 24dB/Oct steep to allow the mids to run lower. I generally did this at the beginning of the night at lower SPLs so to not stress the mids. Once the booze flowed and people were now brave enough to dance, I would change the XO back to 500 Hz and increased the SPL to traditional drinking/dancing levels. It was true that crossing the cone mids lower at 300 Hz sounded better but that went away if I started to push them.
The active bi-amp panel had a switch that must be switched to go to bi-amp. It removed the low pass passive filter to the woofer and removed the high pass filter to the midrange. The tweeter still ran passive filtering and could not be changed. The good thing about that was no worries about "amp thump" if the cord got kicked out of the outlet or power failures hammering the compression driver and mechanically destroying it. The mid took the thump so no worries. If I wanted to, I could of put a full range signal to the "naked" mid and tried to have it do pipe organ notes--which would blow the driver--but I could if I wanted to! This is why active bi-amping is generally never installed on consumer speakers--you can and will blow the mid/high drivers unless you specifically know what you are doing. If I made speakers for consumers, I would not put an active bi-amp switch on consumer speakers--because they would take their "passive bi-amp" AVRs and put a full range signal to the tweeter or mid and grenade the drivers--think of fun with warranties! Dozens of people screaming on user reviews that the speaker is defective because they did not read the book, refused to learn what ACTIVE bi-amping is and how to do it properly.
The proffessional sound speaker manufacturers don't have that problem. They assume you know what you are doing, assume you can read and understand the book as is to be expected with professinal use. I can purchase just mid range horns, high frequency horns, kick bins and sub bins all day long and they have no crossovers in them at all. It is up to the purchaser to know what they want, purchase ALL the correct components when setting up and active system and to do it correctly.
In the consumer world, speakers are generally designed to protect the user from themselves--look at consumer "active" speakers--you can adjust the gain on the woofer and the gain on the tweeter but there is no adjustable crossover to manipulate. This is done to protect the manufacturer from the kid that plays with all the knobs to see what they do (and real men don't read the manual)
If you really, really, really want to actively bi-amp (tri-amp, quad-amp etc.) your consumer speakers--get a book and read how to do it properly. Step one--throw the passive crossover away, get an active 2 to 4 way electronic crossover, the correct amount of amp channels and at least--at a minimum put a capacitor inline with the tweeter amp to prevent amp thump from blowing the tweeters up (you have been warned!) The correct capacitor size, voltage rating etc. is given in the books about active crossover does and don'ts. Generally speaking, get the ratings of each driver on what bandwidth it can do, what voltage levels to set the limiters etc. Don't let anyone else play with the crossover unless you like replacing mid/high frequency drivers as a hobby.
Say you go all in and want to actively bi-amp your speaker--and you read the book how it all works and are comfortable with that. You CAN improve the sound quality of your speakers--you can! However, you need to measure your results with REW and be fully aware of how dispersion changes with frequency, phase issues, different filters and their effects and so on. For the record, I don't actively bi-amp my 2-ways--but technically since I use subwoofers and the electronic crossover in my AVR...they are already "actively bi-amped" at the start. The only real gain I would get if I actively bi-amped my mains is to use different crossover filters and play around with PEQ at the crossover point of each driver. Sounds like fun but the extra 1 or so of smoothness really won't make much of a difference for me. When I build speakers or refurbish speakers for friends/family, I actively bi-amp the drivers to get measurements VS the passive stock crossover. This shows me if the passive crossover is failing or can be improved (really old speakers with basic crossovers can be easily improved) It is nice to know if the speaker will perform and testing with active crossover filters is much easier, faster, cheaper than playing musical passive crossover parts!
Another way to put it... active bi-amping is like having two dates--passive bi-amping is like having two dates but one of them requires an air pump. In summation, if you want to bi-amp, do it right and use active bi-amping with a few books under your belt to get it right...saves on air pumps.