Marantz AV8802 13.2 XLR Pre/Pro **Official Thread** - Page 491 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14701 of 15438 Old 04-05-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by exm View Post
Why don't you assign a static IP to the Marantz?
I do that already, but this is simpler and works. Plus, not everyone is network savvy.

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post #14702 of 15438 Old 04-05-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JonFo View Post
Finding the IP address for the WebUI of the 8802 is a pain, as with DHCP it can change over time. But here is a foolproof way of getting to the web UI without the IP address.

Just use Marantz-AV8802.local.

The last period is required, so don't skip that. Or, just click the above link and bookmark it.

BTW- this is using Bonjour / mDNS / Zeroconf process, and it seems most D&M products have an mDNSresponder instance and advertise their name and services. It is present in all devices that support Airplay.

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There is a setting in DHCP called the lease, which is typically one or more days. As long as you don’t go extended periods of time without powering on the 8802A, it’s IP address is unlikely to change. Mine hasn’t changed since I installed it.
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post #14703 of 15438 Old 04-05-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
There is a setting in DHCP called the lease, which is typically one or more days. As long as you don’t go extended periods of time without powering on the 8802A, it’s IP address is unlikely to change. Mine hasn’t changed since I installed it.
As a networking guy ( I make the IQrouter that fixes Bufferbloat), there are actually several ways to do this.

But to your point, that is because most routers use the MAC address of the client to calculate an IP selection from the DHCP pool, so the device is likely to get the same IP from that router, even if it's been disconnected for a few days. But it is not a reliable thing, as any other device, whose MAC would result in a similar hash, might now get that IP. So when the original device is reconnected, the router has to give it a different IP. Therefore, the unreliability of DHCP assigned IPs.

Another way of doing this is (if your router supports it), is to make the currently assigned IP into a Static Lease, basically locking that IP to that MAC. So even though it's all still DHCP, the router has 'reserved' that IP for that device, and it's guaranteed to stay fixed.

But all of the above breaks when you replace the router, or make significant network changes.

Depending on Bonjour/mDNS is much cleaner as it will always work based on the name. Kind of like why we don't ever need to type the IP for AVSforum.com

I thought it would also make helping others much easier, just give Marantz-AV8802.local. as the URL to the UI without the need to caveat and explain how to find the IP or suggest the use of static IPs.

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post #14704 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 09:14 AM
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Hey All,

Just picked up an 8802A and am integrating it with Emotiva XPA Gen2 Monoblocks (FR and FL) and a XPA-5 driving side and rear surrounds. All of those connected via XLR.

Super excited, however I've been experiencing similar issues that others have reported with Audyssey coming back with funky trims against Emo connected amps. Initially both of my subs (RCA connected) were barely audible after I level matched them to 75db within the calibration. After completed, 2 Ch listening sounded flat and thin, possibly because of the subs integration/phase. Or possibly it's something to do with the XLR connections to the amp(s)? The only way to correct subs was to substantially raise the trims or on the sub itself. As a general practice, I usually raise my trims on each channel to 75db using an SPL meter after all of my Audyssey runs. Is this appropriate?

Lastly, I would like to update/verify the firmware version on the unit. Where is this located? I've looked in all of the settings, but can't seem to find where this is located. I'm hardwired/ethernet.

[EDIT] I'd also like to add that I had the chance to also have the 7012 AVR in my rack last week, but decided to swap out for the pre. I did not notice the same issues really, and the only thing I can think of that changed was I'm using XLRs for the first time instead of preouts on the 7012

Last edited by eiger; 04-07-2018 at 09:48 AM.
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post #14705 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by eiger View Post
Hey All,

Just picked up an 8802A and am integrating it with Emotiva XPA Gen2 Monoblocks (FR and FL) and a XPA-5 driving side and rear surrounds. All of those connected via XLR.

Super excited, however I've been experiencing similar issues that others have reported with Audyssey coming back with funky trims against Emo connected amps. Initially both of my subs (RCA connected) were barely audible after I level matched them to 75db within the calibration. After completed, 2 Ch listening sounded flat and thin, possibly because of the subs integration/phase. Or possibly it's something to do with the XLR connections to the amp(s)? The only way to correct subs was to substantially raise the trims or on the sub itself. As a general practice, I usually raise my trims on each channel to 75db using an SPL meter after all of my Audyssey runs. Is this appropriate?

Lastly, I would like to update/verify the firmware version on the unit. Where is this located? I've looked in all of the settings, but can't seem to find where this is located. I'm hardwired/ethernet.

[EDIT] I'd also like to add that I had the chance to also have the 7012 AVR in my rack last week, but decided to swap out for the pre. I did not notice the same issues really, and the only thing I can think of that changed was I'm using XLRs for the first time instead of preouts on the 7012
The firmware update option is the last item in the setup menu. I believe it is hidden until you actually scroll down to the end.

Audyssey should be setting the trims properly. Have you used an SPL meter to measure what the output levels are, using the speaker level-setting calibration tones? Remember to raise the master volume to zero when generating the tones. In my experience, Audyssey has always set the output levels very close to 75dB. This assumes, of course, that there is not an issue like a defective mic. So, if you measured, what was the output level?
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post #14706 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
The firmware update option is the last item in the setup menu. I believe it is hidden until you actually scroll down to the end.

Audyssey should be setting the trims properly. Have you used an SPL meter to measure what the output levels are, using the speaker level-setting calibration tones? Remember to raise the master volume to zero when generating the tones. In my experience, Audyssey has always set the output levels very close to 75dB. This assumes, of course, that there is not an issue like a defective mic. So, if you measured, what was the output level?
Thanks for great reply Austin!

I just updated the firmware, and am going to run another sweep and will let you know the final output.

When you ask if I've used an SPL meter to measure levels, are you talking about using the meter during the chirp sweep of the channels, or when I look at the individual "speaker levels" setting after everything is done?

Also, at what point should I be raising the volume to 0 on the AVR? I am using relative volume measurement, instead of absolute. Before the sweep of position 1-8, or when I am level matching after Audyssey is completed?

Last edited by eiger; 04-07-2018 at 05:07 PM.
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post #14707 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by eiger View Post
Thanks for great reply Austin!

I just updated the firmware, and am going to run another sweep and will let you know the final output.

When you ask if I've used an SPL meter to measure levels, are you talking about using the meter during the chirp sweep of the channels, or when I look at the individual "speaker levels" setting after everything is done?

Also, at what point should I be raising the volume to 0 on the AVR? I am using relative volume measurement, instead of absolute. Before the sweep of position 1-8, or when I am level matching after Audyssey is completed?
You should check the speaker output levels after the Audyssey calibration has completed. Go into the setup menu, choose Speakers/Manual Setup/Levels/Test Tone Start. When the first test tone starts playing, increase the volume to “Reference”, which is Zero if you use the -79dB to 18dB volume scale, or 80 if you use the other scale. At this volume level, you should measure 75dB output level for each speaker, including the sub, when you hold the SPL meter at ear height in the MLP.

Report back what you find.
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post #14708 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 08:02 PM
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Btw. Emotiva amps switches the hot and cold pins in the XLR plugs. What you could be experiencing is phase problems.
Switch your red and black speaker cables to the Emo amps and try again. That will give you correct phase vs. your subs.

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post #14709 of 15438 Old 04-07-2018, 09:55 PM
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Hi All,

Having some issues with RS232 commands and I could use some help.

For the life of me I cannot seem to get the Subwoofer Level commands under the Audio Settings to work.

The excel doc from Marantz says they should be as follows:

PSSWL ON<CR PSSWL OFF<CR PSSWL UP<CR> PSSWL DOWN<CR> PSSWL 50<CR> PSSWL2 UP<CR> PSSWL2 DOWN<CR> PSSWL2 50<CR>
These would allow for control over the sub levels with +/- 12 db.

Subwoofer Control is set to ON as well.

I can set them just fine while drilling down in the OSD menus, but nothing works when used in iRule.

All the other commands in that section work fine, like Dynamic Volume and that stuff, just not the Subwoofer stuff.

Any thoughts?

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post #14710 of 15438 Old 04-08-2018, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post
Hi All,

Having some issues with RS232 commands and I could use some help.

For the life of me I cannot seem to get the Subwoofer Level commands under the Audio Settings to work.

The excel doc from Marantz says they should be as follows:

PSSWL ON<CR PSSWL OFF<CR PSSWL UP<CR> PSSWL DOWN<CR> PSSWL 50<CR> PSSWL2 UP<CR> PSSWL2 DOWN<CR> PSSWL2 50<CR>
These would allow for control over the sub levels with +/- 12 db.

Subwoofer Control is set to ON as well.

I can set them just fine while drilling down in the OSD menus, but nothing works when used in iRule.

All the other commands in that section work fine, like Dynamic Volume and that stuff, just not the Subwoofer stuff.

Any thoughts?
So managed to get this solved.

But why it would not work is one of life's great mysteries...

I took the commands and copy / pasted them directly from the marantz rs232 doc and that did not work.

But if I typed them in manually, no problem.

Makes zero sense, but at least it is now fixed.

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post #14711 of 15438 Old 04-09-2018, 09:20 AM
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It does-it adds Dolby Vision and HLG pass through-already tested the Dolby Vision on the movie ?Wonder? and it was very nice.
Nothing like a smooth transition........
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post #14712 of 15438 Old 04-09-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post
So managed to get this solved.

But why it would not work is one of life's great mysteries...

I took the commands and copy / pasted them directly from the marantz rs232 doc and that did not work.

But if I typed them in manually, no problem.

Makes zero sense, but at least it is now fixed.
Often computer documents include binary text formatting codes which are not shown on the screen but which copy-and-paste includes and other software (like that in the Marantz) can't decode.

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post #14713 of 15438 Old 04-11-2018, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
You should check the speaker output levels after the Audyssey calibration has completed. Go into the setup menu, choose Speakers/Manual Setup/Levels/Test Tone Start. When the first test tone starts playing, increase the volume to “Reference”, which is Zero if you use the -79dB to 18dB volume scale, or 80 if you use the other scale. At this volume level, you should measure 75dB output level for each speaker, including the sub, when you hold the SPL meter at ear height in the MLP.

Report back what you find.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys. Real life intrudes from time to time! As you may recall, I was struggling on what I thought was semi flat sound (and way over-emphasized highs/bright) with XLR relative to what I remember when I demo'd a 7012 with RCA connections. Possibly apples to oranges, but I re-ran Aud and ensured after I brought F/W to latest and ensured my master volume was set to 0 after jacking the gain on the individual channels.

Here was the result after bumping up the trim. Basically both subs initially came back with -12 on the far end, so I fiddled with the trim and gain until I got these back up to about -2.

The spectrum is much more pronounced now, and I'm making some improvements. With Audyssey enabled for 2ch music, I am still noticing some brightness on my female vocalists and highs in general, but much better. Thoughts on this?


Quote:
Originally Posted by LydMekk View Post
Btw. Emotiva amps switches the hot and cold pins in the XLR plugs. What you could be experiencing is phase problems.
Switch your red and black speaker cables to the Emo amps and try again. That will give you correct phase vs. your subs.
Oh, I actually called Emoiva regarding this issue. They said this is only ever necessary on Gen 3 models. I own Gen 2 blocks, and apparently this solution is ill-advised and not recommended.
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post #14714 of 15438 Old 04-11-2018, 06:48 PM
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Marantz customer support issue

I have had my Marantz AV8802a in the shop a few times for an intermittant problem that the repair center has not been able to fix.

The issue is that services using wireless (or wired) ethernet, such as internet radio or bluetooth will work for a few seconds and then the service will drop out. The screen of my avr when in the bluetooth or either go blank, or present weird tile artifacts on the screen when these connectivity dropouts occur. If I am using hdmi inputs there is no apparent issue with screen hang, or dropouts. It seems like the network module is periodically reseting itself. Factory resets didn't help either.

The issue went in the first time and a network module was replaced, then the AV processor experienced the same symptoms after I got the unit back.

I called Marantz and took the unit back to the authorized repair center where it was bench tested, and I was told that the intermittent issue wasn't reproducible.


The unit has been out of commision for a while now, and there are apparently no replacement av8802a's available according to Marantz, and I had to pick my av processor back up from the repair shop because they couldn't reproduce the issue during their bench testing.


They did offer an upgrade path to an 8805 for an outrageous amount of money, but I am really just interested in getting my AV8802A working like it's supposed to .

At this point the repair center hasn't been able to fix my processor, and there aren't any available replacement units. It's starting to feel like I have a non-warranty warranty.

I just got the unit back for the second time tonight. I'll try to reproduce the issue in the next few days.

Has anybody had a similar issue with Marantz tech support, or have an idea of the best way to proceed?

Thanks.
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post #14715 of 15438 Old 04-11-2018, 09:47 PM
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I have an issue with the music ap on Android.

When I play albums from my server it can stop half way through an album or it will skip tracks then play the next track twice. It is very annoying

Does anyone else get this?

I was wandering if it is the Marantz or the cheap andriod pad I use. Should I buy an Ipad and see if happens on the IOS ap?
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post #14716 of 15438 Old 04-12-2018, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
You should check the speaker output levels after the Audyssey calibration has completed. Go into the setup menu, choose Speakers/Manual Setup/Levels/Test Tone Start. When the first test tone starts playing, increase the volume to “Reference”, which is Zero if you use the -79dB to 18dB volume scale, or 80 if you use the other scale. At this volume level, you should measure 75dB output level for each speaker, including the sub, when you hold the SPL meter at ear height in the MLP.

Report back what you find.
AustinJerry, I'm not the OP, but I've used Audyssey on autopilot for years with three different pre/pros, so this caught my attention. Running the Manual Levels with my trusty 'Shack SPL meter revealed some dramatic discrepancies (ie -7.5db for the sub in Audyssey to -1.5db in Manual, for one; almost every other speaker changed as well, but less dramatically). So, have I now tweaked Audyssey? Overridden it? What are the implications here?
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post #14717 of 15438 Old 04-12-2018, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hawkster27 View Post
AustinJerry, I'm not the OP, but I've used Audyssey on autopilot for years with three different pre/pros, so this caught my attention. Running the Manual Levels with my trusty 'Shack SPL meter revealed some dramatic discrepancies (ie -7.5db for the sub in Audyssey to -1.5db in Manual, for one; almost every other speaker changed as well, but less dramatically). So, have I now tweaked Audyssey? Overridden it? What are the implications here?
I no longer use Audyssey, but when I was an Audyssey user, I don't recall ever encountering a situation where the post-calibration levels were significantly different than 75dB +/- 1dB. Recall that the speaker level-setting test tones bypass the Audyssey filters, so that may account for some output level differences, but not more than 1-2dB. The only way to test with the Audyssey filters in place would be with test tones from an external test disk (the Spears&Munsil Bluray is a good one). Also, the RS SPL Meter may not be providing accurate readings. If you have REW and a USB mic, this would provide a more accurate reading.

There is nothing wrong with adjusting the speaker trims post-Audyssey. Many users adjust the sub channel to suit their preferences. But if your main channel levels are significantly different from 75dB, I would question whether something is wrong with the calibration.
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post #14718 of 15438 Old 04-12-2018, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cossie0 View Post
I have an issue with the music ap on Android.

When I play albums from my server it can stop half way through an album or it will skip tracks then play the next track twice. It is very annoying

Does anyone else get this?

I was wandering if it is the Marantz or the cheap andriod pad I use. Should I buy an Ipad and see if happens on the IOS ap?
It's not just you, I have had some inconsistent behavior as you describe on and off since 2015. I use a direct network connection to the AV8802a. Mine always gets better for quite a while when I power down my router, and the Ethernet switch in my audio rack. I use a Synology NAS and reserved IP addresses if that helps.

Good luck

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post #14719 of 15438 Old 04-12-2018, 09:54 PM
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Thanks for that I will power down my network system and try it again.

I tried another processor recently (not Marantz) and I had no issues at all.
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post #14720 of 15438 Old 04-13-2018, 12:23 PM
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DIY XLR cables

Hello, I posted a few weeks ago about running XLR cables from my Marantz AV8802a to Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 3. I wanted to report I made a set of DIY XLR cables and installing a resistor network built inside of the Emotiva side XLR plug and also reversing the pin 2 and 3 with good results. I experimented with the amount of attenuation using different resistor values, and I came up with values that resulted with Audyssey showing around -1.5 DB settings on the XLR channels. Using no attenuation resulted of a -12 level settings. I can share information with anyone who is interested in doing the same thing.

-Eric
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post #14721 of 15438 Old 04-14-2018, 09:35 AM
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Permanent 'live' HDMI inputs

I am trying to connect my new OPPO 205 to my 8802A using both available HDMI outputs, Main for audio/video and Audio Only to test the new jitter reduction circuitry on the OPPO (for regular audio listening I use analog connections). As it turns out, the OPPO will mute audio on the Main audio/video connection if there is an active Audio Only connection. And all HDMI inputs seem to be 'live' and active on the 8802 even when not selected, or even unassigned.

HDMI CEC is turned off everywhere, all i/p scaling and video conversion is off on all inputs, ARC is off, I am on latest firmware, turning off HDMI pass-through makes no difference and I am desperate now (almost). Is it possible to turn off HDMI inputs completely so the OPPO will presume that there is no active audio connection and enables audio on the main output?

Any help is appreciated.

Mark

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post #14722 of 15438 Old 04-14-2018, 11:16 AM
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I am trying to connect my new OPPO 205 to my 8802A using both available HDMI outputs, Main for audio/video and Audio Only to test the new jitter reduction circuitry on the OPPO (for regular audio listening I use analog connections). As it turns out, the OPPO will mute audio on the Main audio/video connection if there is an active Audio Only connection. And all HDMI inputs seem to be 'live' and active on the 8802 even when not selected, or even unassigned.

HDMI CEC is turned off everywhere, all i/p scaling and video conversion is off on all inputs, ARC is off, I am on latest firmware, turning off HDMI pass-through makes no difference and I am desperate now (almost). Is it possible to turn off HDMI inputs completely so the OPPO will presume that there is no active audio connection and enables audio on the main output?

Any help is appreciated.

Mark

What sort of jitter reduction tests are planned? The AV8802A (and other, at least higher-end Marantz and Denon equipment) already has jitter reduction features including a Cirrus Logic CS2100 IC that provides a low jitter clock for the digital audio circuits.

https://www.cirrus.com/products/cs2100/

The AV8802A uses locally generated reference clocks to feed the CS2100.
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Last edited by bigguyca; 04-14-2018 at 11:28 AM.
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post #14723 of 15438 Old 04-15-2018, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
What sort of jitter reduction tests are planned? The AV8802A (and other, at least higher-end Marantz and Denon equipment) already has jitter reduction features including a Cirrus Logic CS2100 IC that provides a low jitter clock for the digital audio circuits.

https://www.cirrus.com/products/cs2100/

The AV8802A uses locally generated reference clocks to feed the CS2100.
It is my personal test of the new circuitry on board of the OPPO 205. It provides an extra Audio Only HDMI out to solve jitter at the source by sending a simple, audio oriented datastream and 'perfect' clock to the AVR as explained in this article:

"Understanding the HDMI Audio Jitter Reduction Circuit in the OPPO UDP-205"
https://www.oppodigital.com/Knowledg...ProdID=UDP-205

As the 8802 introduces its own clock, benefits are probably small, but as it is available I was curious if I could hear any difference. But because the OPPO mutes audio on the video channel when it detects an active audio HDMI connection it is hard to fastswitch between paths. And it seems that all HDMI inputs on the 8802 (and 8805 as I learned) are active all the time.

I am looking for a way to force the 8802 to shut down unused HDMI inputs. That's all.

Mark

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post #14724 of 15438 Old 04-15-2018, 08:36 AM
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As it turns out, the OPPO will mute audio on the Main audio/video connection if there is an active Audio Only connection.
This is my greatest beef with the UDP 203/205. A totally retrograde/backward move on Oppo's part from the BDP 93/103. Even if they had to make HDMI 2, audio only, I fail to understand the logic behind muting the audio on HDMI 1, merely if HDMI 2 is also connected.
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post #14725 of 15438 Old 04-18-2018, 04:50 PM
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Got a new update today (not sure what updates are?). Everything installed beautifully. Sounds good as ever.
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post #14726 of 15438 Old 04-18-2018, 05:08 PM
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Got a new update today (not sure what updates are?). Everything installed beautifully. Sounds good as ever.
I don’t see a new update. I am on ver 6000-5101-5272-01, which was downloaded quite some time ago. IIRC, this was the version that enabled pass-thru for Dolby Vision and HLG.
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post #14727 of 15438 Old 04-18-2018, 10:12 PM
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I don’t see a new update. I am on ver 6000-5101-5272-01, which was downloaded quite some time ago. IIRC, this was the version that enabled pass-thru for Dolby Vision and HLG.
Checked my firmware version = 6000-5101-5272-01
DTS version = 3.90.35.00

Guess I have'nt powered-up my system in a while (now that I think about it)
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post #14728 of 15438 Old 04-25-2018, 01:01 PM
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I am a new owner, and have run into my first problem. I am replacing a Lexicon MC-12B. The MC-12 had a trigger that used bare wires and not a 1/8 inch connector. I use this to trigger a relay to turn on the subwoofer amps.

I know I need an 1/8 in connector and I soldered up one using a two wire miniplug. The kind with only one black stripe.

From what I have read, the trigger "triggers" when you turn the power on. If that is correct, I have something wrong. My relay does not trigger.

Either I have the connector wired wrong, or am not correctly understanding how to trigger.

Thanks

Mark
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post #14729 of 15438 Old 04-25-2018, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jacket_fan View Post
I am a new owner, and have run into my first problem. I am replacing a Lexicon MC-12B. The MC-12 had a trigger that used bare wires and not a 1/8 inch connector. I use this to trigger a relay to turn on the subwoofer amps.

I know I need an 1/8 in connector and I soldered up one using a two wire miniplug. The kind with only one black stripe.

From what I have read, the trigger "triggers" when you turn the power on. If that is correct, I have something wrong. My relay does not trigger.

Either I have the connector wired wrong, or am not correctly understanding how to trigger.

Thanks
Are you using a mono mini plug or a stereo mini plug? Did you try switching the polarity of the two wires?

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post #14730 of 15438 Old 04-25-2018, 01:30 PM
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Guys need some advice....i currently own oppo 103d and marantz 8802a with emotiva amp...Thinking of upgrading my oppo to 205(hoping to find one)...will i see difference using oppo dac vs marantz..i am using definitive technology tower 7002 speakers for l/r....I am planing to use oppo setero balance out for music...
how much differnenc i see in movies and music....
can i use balance out for setero and analog out movies?

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AV8802a/Emotiva xpa-5/oppo 103d, butterkicker BK-KIT-4, nvidia shield tv pro, xbox one
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