Marantz AV8802 13.2 XLR Pre/Pro **Official Thread** - Page 509 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15241 of 15435 Old 02-14-2019, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Hammmerhead View Post
Just picked up an 8802A last night and got everything set up for the most part. When listening to 2 channel in direct or pure direct, is there a quick way to turn the sub on and off with re-configing the LFE, Main setup?


I might add the resolution on this unit is very good to my ears and pairs well with my amp. Its definitely is a step up coming from my old Denon 4311 used as a Pre, but its going to take me a bit to conform to this menu setup. Not unhappy with it, but it almost seems to be a step back compared to the old Denon's GUI. Also the remote, is unreadable with my eyes. Memory will fix that in time. What is important is that it sounds great.
There is no bass management using either DIRECT or PURE DIRECT so with 2Ch audio nothing gets sent to the sub unless Subwoofer = LFE+MAIN.
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post #15242 of 15435 Old 02-14-2019, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
There is no bass management using either DIRECT or PURE DIRECT so with 2Ch audio nothing gets sent to the sub unless Subwoofer = LFE+MAIN.


Thanks JD.
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post #15243 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 04:36 PM
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If a connected PC has both an optical out (add-in card) and audio out via DisplayPort\HDMI (onboard port), which connection uses the superior DAC?

I'm assuming the several years old, cheapo sound card itself isn't better than the 8802A DAC....

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post #15244 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JosephTonyStark View Post
If a connected PC has both an optical out (add-in card) and audio out via DisplayPort\HDMI (onboard port), which connection uses the superior DAC?

I'm assuming the several years old, cheapo sound card itself isn't better than the 8802A DAC....

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Both connections are outputting a digital signal which is not using any DAC in the computer. Both connections would use the same DAC in the 8802a.
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post #15245 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:22 PM
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Both connections are outputting a digital signal which is not using any DAC in the computer. Both connections would use the same DAC in the 8802a.
Thanks for that info. With that, makes me wonder which would be better for music.

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post #15246 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:44 PM
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ARC and Auto(Dual) Video Output

I've avoided ARC until just recently. I've been doing more Netflix streaming lately via my TV's built-in smart function and decided I want to have the best quality audio available and thus changed my settings for ARC functionality. Well, it's been painful. I've worked thru several problems but still have one problem I have yet to solve.
I have HDMI Control set to "On" and I have turned off the "TV Audio Switching" and "Power Off Control" on my AV8802. I am using both Monitor Outs 1 (ARC) and 2, and I've set Video Output to "Auto(Dual)". The problem I am having is that I have to switch the Video Output to "Monitor 2" when using HDMI sources, otherwise I get no video from my BD player for instance. Then I have to switch back to "Auto(Dual)" for ARC audio to function.
For those with more ARC experience, should I remove the Monitor 2 HDMI cable and just use Monitor 1 (ARC) out for both TV streaming sources and for HDMI input soruces ? Will this solve my problem ? I've always thought that using the ARC HDMI monitor out was a compromise (to video quality) when using straight HDMI sources or that it might cause other issues.

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post #15247 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JosephTonyStark View Post
Thanks for that info. With that, makes me wonder which would be better for music.

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Hard to say if there would be any difference. You could get into all sorts of discussions about whether HDMI vs Toslink Optical vs Digital Coax provide better audio. The discussions might reference differences in jitter and other stuff, but in the end, if both are digital audio connections going to the same DAC in the Marantz, you would need golden ears to hear any difference, IMO. In my setup, I use digital coax for my Sonos Connect, which streams lossless FLAC from a music service on the internet, and Apple lossless from ripped CD's stored on my NAS. I use HDMI for my Oppo 203 and my AppleTV 4K. Both methods of connecting provide excellent sound, and I cannot hear one as being better than the other. And I listen to a lot of music.
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post #15248 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by stash64 View Post
I've avoided ARC until just recently. I've been doing more Netflix streaming lately via my TV's built-in smart function and decided I want to have the best quality audio available and thus changed my settings for ARC functionality. Well, it's been painful. I've worked thru several problems but still have one problem I have yet to solve.
I have HDMI Control set to "On" and I have turned off the "TV Audio Switching" and "Power Off Control" on my AV8802. I am using both Monitor Outs 1 (ARC) and 2, and I've set Video Output to "Auto(Dual)". The problem I am having is that I have to switch the Video Output to "Monitor 2" when using HDMI sources, otherwise I get no video from my BD player for instance. Then I have to switch back to "Auto(Dual)" for ARC audio to function.
For those with more ARC experience, should I remove the Monitor 2 HDMI cable and just use Monitor 1 (ARC) out for both TV streaming sources and for HDMI input soruces ? Will this solve my problem ? I've always thought that using the ARC HDMI monitor out was a compromise (to video quality) when using straight HDMI sources or that it might cause other issues.
I can't help. I have always found ARC to be problematic. I am perfectly happy with Dolby Digital 5.1 from the TV apps back to the 8802a over Toslink. For content with more sophisticated audio, I prefer using the AppleTV 4K with an HDMI connection, rather than the internal TV apps.
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post #15249 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Hard to say if there would be any difference. You could get into all sorts of discussions about whether HDMI vs Toslink Optical vs Digital Coax provide better audio. The discussions might reference differences in jitter and other stuff, but in the end, if both are digital audio connections going to the same DAC in the Marantz, you would need golden ears to hear any difference, IMO. In my setup, I use digital coax for my Sonos Connect, which streams lossless FLAC from a music service on the internet, and Apple lossless from ripped CD's stored on my NAS. I use HDMI for my Oppo 203 and my AppleTV 4K. Both methods of connecting provide excellent sound, and I cannot hear one as being better than the other. And I listen to a lot of music.
You're probably right. After all, I am only equipped with silver ears. Both are connected at the moment, not like I'm in a rush to get behind my AV stand to yank out a cable that has nowhere to go.

I appreciate you taking time to share your thoughts.

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post #15250 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
I can't help. I have always found ARC to be problematic. I am perfectly happy with Dolby Digital 5.1 from the TV apps back to the 8802a over Toslink. For content with more sophisticated audio, I prefer using the AppleTV 4K with an HDMI connection, rather than the internal TV apps.
I've always felt the same about ARC. I've tried it a few other times in the past and gave up pretty quickly. It still sucks. I don't understand why we can't have just the ARC functionality completely separate from HDMI control. SMART features tend to be really dumb. I may end up going back to optical in the end.
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post #15251 of 15435 Old 02-15-2019, 09:14 PM
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You're probably right. After all, I am only equipped with silver ears. Both are connected at the moment, not like I'm in a rush to get behind my AV stand to yank out a cable that has nowhere to go.

I appreciate you taking time to share your thoughts.

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I am relieved to hear that both of your ears are connected at the moment!
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post #15252 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 03:09 AM
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I've always felt the same about ARC. I've tried it a few other times in the past and gave up pretty quickly. It still sucks. I don't understand why we can't have just the ARC functionality completely separate from HDMI control. SMART features tend to be really dumb. I may end up going back to optical in the end.
This is now the case beginning with the 2015 and newer Denon/Marantz models which now feature a dedicated ARC (ON/OFF) setting.
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post #15253 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 07:14 AM
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Hi JD, I downloaded two MP4 Atmos trailers from Dolby's website and put them on a thumb drive. Can I get these to playback(proper Atmos) via the ipod/usb inputs on the Marantz? I was able to access the files but it said it wasn't a supported file type. Is there some other setting I'm missing? I was able to play them via the usb input on my Panny 820 player but there was just video, no audio. Just trying to figure out if I can play these Atmos trailers off the thumb w/o having to burn them to disc??

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post #15254 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
This is now the case beginning with the 2015 and newer Denon/Marantz models which now feature a dedicated ARC (ON/OFF) setting.
Is that eARC ?
To be clear, the other problems I had to work thru were obviously the fault of the TV... like no sound thru optical and the TV was actually off.

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post #15255 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 01:07 PM
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Hi JD, I downloaded two MP4 Atmos trailers from Dolby's website and put them on a thumb drive. Can I get these to playback(proper Atmos) via the ipod/usb inputs on the Marantz? I was able to access the files but it said it wasn't a supported file type. Is there some other setting I'm missing? I was able to play them via the usb input on my Panny 820 player but there was just video, no audio. Just trying to figure out if I can play these Atmos trailers off the thumb w/o having to burn them to disc??
Nope. USB is stereo only.
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post #15256 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 01:10 PM
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Is that eARC ?
To be clear, the other problems I had to work thru were obviously the fault of the TV... like no sound thru optical and the TV was actually off.
Nope. eARC is simply an "enhanced" version of ARC. The eARC feature is only found on the 2017 X3400H/SR6012 (and higher) and 2018 X3500H/SR6013 (and higher) models.

The dedicated ARC setting is found on all 2015 and newer Denon/Marantz ARC capable models.

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post #15257 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 01:24 PM
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^
Thanks JD! Very helpful as always.
What do you think about just using the Monitor 1 (ARC) out instead of Dual Monitor Out ? Is there any drawback for HDMI sources that of course do not require ARC ? I do have just one video source connected to the AV8802.

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post #15258 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 02:02 PM
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^
Thanks JD! Very helpful as always.
What do you think about just using the Monitor 1 (ARC) out instead of Dual Monitor Out ? Is there any drawback for HDMI sources that of course do not require ARC ? I do have just one video source connected to the AV8802.
Works. Shouldn't be a problem.
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post #15259 of 15435 Old 02-16-2019, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Both connections are outputting a digital signal which is not using any DAC in the computer. Both connections would use the same DAC in the 8802a.
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Originally Posted by JosephTonyStark View Post
You're probably right. After all, I am only equipped with silver ears. Both are connected at the moment, not like I'm in a rush to get behind my AV stand to yank out a cable that has nowhere to go.

I appreciate you taking time to share your thoughts.

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Don't waste your time crawling behind your stand. You will head no difference with either. A 1 is on and 0 is off. So a digital word/note will sound the same to your ears.

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post #15260 of 15435 Old 02-17-2019, 05:17 PM
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Works. Shouldn't be a problem.
I just made up my mind today that I've had enough with ARC. I managed almost 2 months but it finally got the best of me today. Even though my TV is set to "ARC only" and my AV8802 has the two control options turned off, ARC is still somehow turning on the AV8802 and switching inputs. These two behaviors are rather minor compared to what else it has done over the last few weeks, but I am just worn out fighting with it. I've decided lower quality audio for one or two inputs is worth not having to deal with ARC. ARC wins.

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post #15261 of 15435 Old 02-19-2019, 06:45 AM
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Hi JD et all, if I want to run Audyssey, then leave it "on" but make some tweaks to the speaker settings(xovers etc.), I simply just need to go into manual setup and bump up what xovers I want, or play test tones and slightly change individual speaker levels if needed? That's all I need to do and those changes will be applied to the Audyssey calibration that is still "on"??

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post #15262 of 15435 Old 02-19-2019, 06:47 AM
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Hi JD et all, if I want to run Audyssey, then leave it "on" but make some tweaks to the speaker settings(xovers etc.), I simply just need to go into manual setup and bump up what xovers I want, or play test tones and slightly change individual speaker levels if needed? That's all I need to do and those changes will be applied to the Audyssey calibration that is still "on"??
Correct. The settings in MANUAL SETUP are the "active" settings used with the Audyssey EQ.
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post #15263 of 15435 Old 02-19-2019, 07:10 AM
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Hi JD et all, if I want to run Audyssey, then leave it "on" but make some tweaks to the speaker settings(xovers etc.), I simply just need to go into manual setup and bump up what xovers I want, or play test tones and slightly change individual speaker levels if needed? That's all I need to do and those changes will be applied to the Audyssey calibration that is still "on"??
Adjusting crossovers after the Audyssey cal is actually quite a common practice. Audyssey measures the low end frequency response of a speaker and passes this information on to the AVR, which simply "recommends" the lowest crossover that should be used. The lowest crossover is not necessarily the best crossover that you should use. For example, for large, capable speakers the recommendation may be "full range", a setting that would not pass any low frequencies to the subwoofer(s). Typically, more reasonable crossover setting would be 60, 80, or 100Hz, depending on how it sounds to you.

A less common practice is adjusting speaker levels after the calibration. Audyssey is usually quite good at balancing levels across all speakers. Levels should be changed only if you have the ability to measure the levels and find that a level setting is really wrong. The one exception would be the sub level, which many people adjust higher to provide more low frequency punch.
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Adjusting crossovers after the Audyssey cal is actually quite a common practice. Audyssey measures the low end frequency response of a speaker and passes this information on to the AVR, which simply "recommends" the lowest crossover that should be used. The lowest crossover is not necessarily the best crossover that you should use. For example, for large, capable speakers the recommendation may be "full range", a setting that would not pass any low frequencies to the subwoofer(s). Typically, more reasonable crossover setting would be 60, 80, or 100Hz, depending on how it sounds to you.

A less common practice is adjusting speaker levels after the calibration. Audyssey is usually quite good at balancing levels across all speakers. Levels should be changed only if you have the ability to measure the levels and find that a level setting is really wrong. The one exception would be the sub level, which many people adjust higher to provide more low frequency punch.
Thanks Jerry. Well I ran an 8 point Audyssey cal. I did have to raise some xovers up to 80 then gave a listen to familiar material. The dialogue and center channel seemed low. I went to look at the spreads and the center was 2dB lower than the LR....same exact speakers and distance. So I went to manual setup, started the test tones and raised the MV to 0 and got out my spl meter. Most everything was reading 73-74. I just went through the tones speaker by speaker and made slight adjustments for each to read 75dB. Then I did raise the gains on the subs so there wasn't as much of a spread between them and the speaker's levels.....the subs are reading about 78-80dB. Sound like I went about it a good way?

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post #15265 of 15435 Old 02-19-2019, 08:59 AM
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Thanks Jerry. Well I ran an 8 point Audyssey cal. I did have to raise some xovers up to 80 then gave a listen to familiar material. The dialogue and center channel seemed low. I went to look at the spreads and the center was 2dB lower than the LR....same exact speakers and distance. So I went to manual setup, started the test tones and raised the MV to 0 and got out my spl meter. Most everything was reading 73-74. I just went through the tones speaker by speaker and made slight adjustments for each to read 75dB. Then I did raise the gains on the subs so there wasn't as much of a spread between them and the speaker's levels.....the subs are reading about 78-80dB. Sound like I went about it a good way?
Your approach looks good to me.
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post #15266 of 15435 Old 02-20-2019, 05:45 AM
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ugh... trying to make hdr work on my setup and i have a simple troubleshooting- related question- does the 8802a indicate when it is processing/ passing through hdr content? i looked in the manual, searched the web, but could not find the answer. anybody?

thank you in advance
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post #15267 of 15435 Old 02-20-2019, 06:37 AM
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ugh... trying to make hdr work on my setup and i have a simple troubleshooting- related question- does the 8802a indicate when it is processing/ passing through hdr content? i looked in the manual, searched the web, but could not find the answer. anybody?

thank you in advance
Yes, you can open the menu and go to General/Information/Video/HDMI Signal Info. SDR uses the Colorspace BT.709, while HDR uses BT.2020. You can also see the signal resolution—HDR would typically show 4K.

You can also see combined audio and video information using the 8802a web interface by navigating to General/Information.
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post #15268 of 15435 Old 02-21-2019, 06:32 AM
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Yes, you can open the menu and go to General/Information/Video/HDMI Signal Info. SDR uses the Colorspace BT.709, while HDR uses BT.2020. You can also see the signal resolution—HDR would typically show 4K.

You can also see combined audio and video information using the 8802a web interface by navigating to General/Information.
thank you. problem with the colorspace readout is that my source (nvidia shield) outputs always .2020 so it is not an hdr indicator.

but... i was advised in a different thread that when my projector (tk800) sees hdr it will enable certain hdr- specific menus and thus i will know content is hdr.

thanks again
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post #15269 of 15435 Old 02-21-2019, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by partcrash View Post
thank you. problem with the colorspace readout is that my source (nvidia shield) outputs always .2020 so it is not an hdr indicator.

but... i was advised in a different thread that when my projector (tk800) sees hdr it will enable certain hdr- specific menus and thus i will know content is hdr.

thanks again
Interesting. Sounds like the Shield is converting the output regardless of the signal's original format. I am not sure I would want that type of alteration. I experienced the same thig with my AppleTV 4K until I configured it properly. And like your projector, my Sony flat panel will automatically switch to HDR picture mode when an HDR signal is detected.
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post #15270 of 15435 Old 02-21-2019, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post
Interesting. Sounds like the Shield is converting the output regardless of the signal's original format. I am not sure I would want that type of alteration. I experienced the same thig with my AppleTV 4K until I configured it properly. And like your projector, my Sony flat panel will automatically switch to HDR picture mode when an HDR signal is detected.
the shield does not have an "auto" display output- at least not one i could find in the simple menu they give you- rather it has a choice of outputs 4k/59.9hz .709, 4k/60hz .709, 4k/59.9hz .2020, etc.... once you chose one that is what the output is.

my setup is a shield feeds into oppo 205 which feeds into the 8802a which feeds into the tk800 projector. i have to do this as i run a cinemascope screen with lenses and my projector cannot do a vertical stretch... so i am using the oppo to stretch the picture.

what i also noticed is that if i feed an hdr blueray via the oppo, the projector recognizes the hdr signal and turns on hdr. however, if i feed an hdr with the shield, the projector does not recognize the hdr signal. so what i did to simplify everything and retain my sanity i set the shield to .2020, set the oppo to force hdr processing/ do the hdr and set the projector to no hdr... since most of the material i am watching is 4k hdr content - this works well. for non-hdr material i can always quickly turn off hdr via the oppo. not a beautiful solution, but it is simple, it works and i dont second guess every time is hdr on or not.
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