The official Dolby Atmos thread (home theater version) - Page 1292 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #38731 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 08:33 AM
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I would go with Top Front Heights about mid way between front speakers and back couch. This would be about middle room but the reference is to the listening position not room. This will lift your sound field up more and would require in ceiling speakers.
I think because its a small room, having to many speakers on the same plane will begin to overlap the sound field to were it's just one big mix of all the effects. You have everything from the front bouncing off the rear walls and vice versa with the rears. I wouldn't do a 5.1.4 in your set up because I think it's to much. I'm not in the "you can never have to much camp". I've been in set ups similar to yours built in man caves and it was exactly that, too much. Sound waves are bouncing all over the place and its just one big mess of sound.
The only way to offset that is to turn the sound down so there less overpowering reflections but then that's not what you want when your watching an action based movie.

That's why I think a simple 5.1.2 set up is good for your room. Since you already have the set up for a 5.1.4 I would move the speakers you have on top of your mains to the same point I suggested for in ceiling speakers. It won't look good (matter of opinion) but since this is a designated home theater area it's acceptable. If you decide to keep them on the front wall I would mount them just about to the ceiling and slightly wider than your mains. Designate those as Front Height speakers as opposed to the Top Height speakers I spoke of.

If you draw a straight line from each speaker to your ear level you will see that front heights (mounted almost to ceiling) and your mains hit your ears with very little spacing or at an angle that very close at maybe 30°. Do the same line draw with ceiling mount position and you have nearly a 70-80° of separation. Much easier for your brain to spatially hear that difference.


Looking at the back of your room I would consider raising the surrounds up by about 6" so they are not right in your ear. The speakers you have on the rear ceiling I would designate as Top Rears since they're right at the ceiling.

What is that speaker I see on top of what appears to be a rear sub behind the couch?

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Last edited by leedesert; 03-06-2016 at 08:47 AM.
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post #38732 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony_Montana View Post
hello guys!

which is the cheapest AVR that supports dolby atmos - 5.1.2 (even with external amp)?
Probably the Onkyo 646. That's the one I use for 5.1.2. Supposed to support DTS:X as well but they still haven't released the update for it yet.

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post #38733 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 09:35 AM
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hello guys!

which is the cheapest AVR that supports dolby atmos - 5.1.2 (even with external amp)?
Buying the cheapest product doesn't always pay off in the long run. If you choose to add four overhead speakers (which is superior to two for object movement in space), then you'll have to re-buy a mid level receiver with 5.1.4 processing.

Nowadays, you also need HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2 support. I would also look for DTS: X upgradeability. Who knows which immersive format each studio will finally decide upon.
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post #38734 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony_Montana View Post
which is the cheapest AVR that supports dolby atmos - 5.1.2 (even with external amp)?
For Atmos and DTS:X, cheapest is Onkyo 646. For just Atmos, it's the Onkyo 444. http://amzn.com/B00WSECTYQ You can get one used (like new) for a couple hundred.

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post #38735 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Buying the cheapest product doesn't always pay off in the long run. If you choose to add four overhead speakers (which is superior to two for object movement in space), then you'll have to re-buy a mid level receiver with 5.1.4 processing.

Nowadays, you also need HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2 support. I would also look for DTS: X upgradeability. Who knows which immersive format each studio will finally decide upon.
It does since I already have the Denon X5200W and because I didn't get the top of the line 7200, I don't get DTS:X or more importantly HDCP 2.2 which allows for 4k support. I was not about to buy another expensive AVR just for these items so the next best thing was the 646.

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post #38736 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 12:31 PM
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It does since I already have the Denon X5200W and because I didn't get the top of the line 7200, I don't get DTS:X or more importantly HDCP 2.2 which allows for 4k support. I was not about to buy another expensive AVR just for these to items so the next best thing was the 646.
Ouch! Good luck with the new receiver.

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post #38737 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 01:28 PM
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There is a new low budget animation movie called Capture the Flag that has Atmos. It's pretty terrible though, and no crazy atmos demo scenes either.
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post #38738 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 02:02 PM
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There is a new low budget animation movie called Capture the Flag that has Atmos. It's pretty terrible though, and no crazy atmos demo scenes either.

Well, no surprise there. Most movies based on videogames are pretty bad.



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post #38739 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 02:26 PM
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Looking at this atmo thread: Are all the new movies being released from here on end going to be atmos? Looking to see if i am going to upgrade.
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post #38740 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 02:36 PM
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I just finished my home theater and went with a 5.1.4 setup. After 4 months, I added two "side" channels for 7.1.4 and I have been posting in relevant threads about just how much more incredible it is to have 7.1.4. BEST decision I made. The side channels add depth, discrete sounds, impact,... I am floored. SO happy right now

Gravity was watched both in 5.1.4 and 7.1.4 as was Mad Max... a whole different experience from TWO extra speakers. SO cool!

Play nice. It's just an online forum :)
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post #38741 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 08:43 PM
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ATMOS Setup

Hi, I just ran the ATMOS 5.1.4 setup on my Denon 7200WA and all speakers were set to 60 & 80 htz except my Front Ceiling Speakers which were set to 120htz, this correct? I changed all other speakers to 80htz. Other than that, 4K Atmos discs soung good!
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post #38742 of 54989 Old 03-06-2016, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ingramba View Post
Hi, I just ran the ATMOS 5.1.4 setup on my Denon 7200WA and all speakers were set to 60 & 80 htz except my Front Ceiling Speakers which were set to 120htz, this correct? I changed all other speakers to 80htz. Other than that, 4K Atmos discs soung good!
Impossible to say if it's "correct" since it depends on your specific speakers and room acoustics but 80hz on all base layer speakers and 120hz on heights sounds perfectly reasonable. I would trust Audyssey's measurements.
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post #38743 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 06:48 AM
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Impossible to say if it's "correct" since it depends on your specific speakers and room acoustics but 80hz on all base layer speakers and 120hz on heights sounds perfectly reasonable. I would trust Audyssey's measurements.
Thx batpig! I just thought it was odd it set the front to 120hz & the rear to 60hz. Both sets of ceiling speakers are 6.5" Klipsch coaxials with the rears having a movable tweeter & woofer design. I'll let them be and enjoy!
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post #38744 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ingramba View Post
Thx batpig! I just thought it was odd it set the front to 120hz & the rear to 60hz. Both sets of ceiling speakers are 6.5" Klipsch coaxials with the rears having a movable tweeter & woofer design. I'll let them be and enjoy!
When I ran AccuEQ it set my speakers up at 100-110hz. I'm not sure why it did that but my speakers are all good to about 60hz so I changed that to the THX standard of 80hz. I'm not comfortable with 1oohz or more going to my sub because once you get up over 100hz the sound is easier to localize, otherwise you can tell where its coming from. 80hz and below it's just bass that fills the room.

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post #38745 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 08:07 AM
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will changing the crossover ,effect audessey in a way, or is there no effect
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post #38746 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 08:11 AM
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Broke down my whole 7.1.4 setup at my old house two weeks ago, which was heartbreaking! Moved into my new house last weekend and did a quick setup of my bed level speakers this past weekend with some adjustable monitor stands. I raised the surrounds slightly after these pics, but other than that, this is gonna be my setup. Gonna do TF/TR with some Polk V60 Slims when I get the projector mounted in the next few weeks, so I threw a spare Vizio in there in the meantime. Didn't have everything I needed when the electricians were here, but since they were doing other work anyway, I had them run dedicated lines for my gear.

My 120" screen just fits over that mural on the wall with about 1.75' on either side of it, so my mains are going to have to be widely spaced and toed-in... and my subwoofer is basically stuck in that corner. May have to sell off my trusty old SVS 20-39CS+ and get an equivalent box sub to make things fit better. I have a couple of acoustic panels that I was thinking of mounting on the small bits of wall to left and right of the screen (side walls, not front). Not sure if it will serve much purpose audio-wise, but I have them... and figure it will darken up the reflected light from the projector screen. Still ruminating over proper placement of my Atmos channels, some of which will depend on where the ceiling joists are, but I should be able to easily hit the prescribed angles for TF/TR and put my projector overhead roughly between the two rows of seating. The ceiling is old 1" thick acoustic paneling, so that's gonna be fun to cut into. Gonna climb up in the attic to see if we're dealing with blown insulation or sheet.

Next steps after that will be addressing that window for both light and audio purposes (because you can hear a bit too well outside the house when I crank it up and I'm not quite sure what to do about that yet) and addressing the two open doorways so I can try to cut down the sound transferred to the rest of the house. And maybe painting the ceiling black or some other color that won't reflect light off the screen as much. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It may not end up as fancy as some of the rooms I see here, but I think it's going to turn out pretty slick and more importantly, sound better than my previous FH/TM setup did.
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post #38747 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ingramba View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Impossible to say if it's "correct" since it depends on your specific speakers and room acoustics but 80hz on all base layer speakers and 120hz on heights sounds perfectly reasonable. I would trust Audyssey's measurements.
Thx batpig! I just thought it was odd it set the front to 120hz & the rear to 60hz. Both sets of ceiling speakers are 6.5" Klipsch coaxials with the rears having a movable tweeter & woofer design. I'll let them be and enjoy!
In ceiling speakers are subject to the acoustics of the cavity they are installed in. Plus they are in different physical positions in the room.
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post #38748 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 08:20 AM
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will changing the crossover ,effect audessey in a way, or is there no effect
Straying off topic from Atmos, but with Audyssey its fine to raise crossovers but generally not to lower them.
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post #38749 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 08:24 AM
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will changing the crossover ,effect audessey in a way, or is there no effect
It should only effect the crossover points. Al the other EQ features, distance, speaker equalization, and level should not be effected.

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post #38750 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 09:33 AM
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will changing the crossover ,effect audessey in a way, or is there no effect
If you haven't already done so, please take a look through the Audyssey 101/FAQ, especially section C. Crossover Settings

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post #38751 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 12:43 PM
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In ceiling speakers are subject to the acoustics of the cavity they are installed in. Plus they are in different physical positions in the room.
This is why it's a good idea to get ones with a backer box or build one yourself. You also get a better bass response that way. I got ones with a backer also because my wife is annoyed enough at the sound coming from the basement - having the ceiling speakers just open into the joists would make the sound even more annoying on the main floor.

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post #38752 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 12:44 PM
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I would go with Top Front Heights about mid way between front speakers and back couch. This would be about middle room but the reference is to the listening position not room. This will lift your sound field up more and would require in ceiling speakers.
I think because its a small room, having to many speakers on the same plane will begin to overlap the sound field to were it's just one big mix of all the effects. You have everything from the front bouncing off the rear walls and vice versa with the rears. I wouldn't do a 5.1.4 in your set up because I think it's to much. I'm not in the "you can never have to much camp". I've been in set ups similar to yours built in man caves and it was exactly that, too much. Sound waves are bouncing all over the place and its just one big mess of sound.
The only way to offset that is to turn the sound down so there less overpowering reflections but then that's not what you want when your watching an action based movie.

That's why I think a simple 5.1.2 set up is good for your room. Since you already have the set up for a 5.1.4 I would move the speakers you have on top of your mains to the same point I suggested for in ceiling speakers. It won't look good (matter of opinion) but since this is a designated home theater area it's acceptable. If you decide to keep them on the front wall I would mount them just about to the ceiling and slightly wider than your mains. Designate those as Front Height speakers as opposed to the Top Height speakers I spoke of.

If you draw a straight line from each speaker to your ear level you will see that front heights (mounted almost to ceiling) and your mains hit your ears with very little spacing or at an angle that very close at maybe 30°. Do the same line draw with ceiling mount position and you have nearly a 70-80° of separation. Much easier for your brain to spatially hear that difference.


Looking at the back of your room I would consider raising the surrounds up by about 6" so they are not right in your ear. The speakers you have on the rear ceiling I would designate as Top Rears since they're right at the ceiling.

What is that speaker I see on top of what appears to be a rear sub behind the couch?
I've played around with two vs four height speakers and the difference between the two is definitely perceptible. The panning effects front to back are much more realistic than having just one set in my setup. Aesthetics aren't as much as a concern because it is a dedicated area and running cables for a more permanent solution will be done once the final setup is realized. I don't believe the L R degree separation will make a large difference between the heights and the mains are too important if the height speakers purpose is to create a height effect and not a further separation of L and R. I'll probably follow the Dolby atmos recommendation and mount them at a 45 degree angle wrt vertical on the ceiling. I believe it would be better if they are more in line so the height speakers can blend into the mains more seemlessly so there isn't a panning effect left and right when sound is moving through from the mains to the heights. I've been running Dirac as well so I'm not sure whether its taming reflections or not but I haven't had any concerns about a mass of sound that isn't delineated.

The recommendation to elevate the surrounds is well taken. I'll probably add a cinderblock or something onto the stands to see whether it makes a large difference. The speaker in the back is a rear surround I was playing around with. It probably won't stay there. Just an extra speaker I had around.
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post #38753 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 04:02 PM
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I've played around with two vs four height speakers and the difference between the two is definitely perceptible. The panning effects front to back are much more realistic than having just one set in my setup. Aesthetics aren't as much as a concern because it is a dedicated area and running cables for a more permanent solution will be done once the final setup is realized. I don't believe the L R degree separation will make a large difference between the heights and the mains are too important if the height speakers purpose is to create a height effect and not a further separation of L and R. I'll probably follow the Dolby atmos recommendation and mount them at a 45 degree angle wrt vertical on the ceiling. I believe it would be better if they are more in line so the height speakers can blend into the mains more seemlessly so there isn't a panning effect left and right when sound is moving through from the mains to the heights. I've been running Dirac as well so I'm not sure whether its taming reflections or not but I haven't had any concerns about a mass of sound that isn't delineated.

The recommendation to elevate the surrounds is well taken. I'll probably add a cinderblock or something onto the stands to see whether it makes a large difference. The speaker in the back is a rear surround I was playing around with. It probably won't stay there. Just an extra speaker I had around.
I suggested the ceiling mount because the height speakers nomenclature is kind of deceiving. It's not just to create height but to actually envelope you. Otherwise, if something passes over head its hard to create that effect when the sound has to jump from the front wall to the back wall. When you have a ceiling mounted speaker that sound can actually travel over you without being simulated. That's why the primary atmos set up is with ceiling speakers, or speakers that reflect off the ceiling.

From the manual:

Ceiling speakers, etc. are used for
maximizing effects in Dolby Atmos or
Dolby Surround listening mode. Install Top
Front speakers so that they are positioned
at a point between directly above the
listening position and directly above the
front speakers. Install Top Middle speakers
so they are directly above the listening
position. Install Top Rear speakers so
they are positioned at a point between
directly above the listening position and
directly above the back speakers.

●● Dolby Laboratories recommends
placing the speakers as described in
"Installing speakers in ceiling" to obtain
the best Dolby Atmos effect.
A Dolby Enabled Speaker is specially
designed to be used as a height speaker.
There are two types of Dolby Enabled
Speakers; one type is designed to be
placed on top of other speakers such as
front speakers and surround speakers,
and the other type is designed to be integrated with normal
speakers. Dolby Enabled Speakers placed with their
diaphragms facing toward the ceiling create higher effect
in the Dolby Atmos and Dolby Surround listening modes
by providing sounds echoing off the ceiling.

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post #38754 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
I suggested the ceiling mount because the height speakers nomenclature is kind of deceiving. It's not just to create height but to actually envelope you. Otherwise, if something passes over head its hard to create that effect when the sound has to jump from the front wall to the back wall. When you have a ceiling mounted speaker that sound can actually travel over you without being simulated. That's why the primary atmos set up is with ceiling speakers, or speakers that reflect off the ceiling.

From the manual:

Ceiling speakers, etc. are used for
maximizing effects in Dolby Atmos or
Dolby Surround listening mode. Install Top
Front speakers so that they are positioned
at a point between directly above the
listening position and directly above the
front speakers. Install Top Middle speakers
so they are directly above the listening
position. Install Top Rear speakers so
they are positioned at a point between
directly above the listening position and
directly above the back speakers.

●● Dolby Laboratories recommends
placing the speakers as described in
"Installing speakers in ceiling" to obtain
the best Dolby Atmos effect.
A Dolby Enabled Speaker is specially
designed to be used as a height speaker.
There are two types of Dolby Enabled
Speakers; one type is designed to be
placed on top of other speakers such as
front speakers and surround speakers,
and the other type is designed to be integrated with normal
speakers. Dolby Enabled Speakers placed with their
diaphragms facing toward the ceiling create higher effect
in the Dolby Atmos and Dolby Surround listening modes
by providing sounds echoing off the ceiling.
Gotcha. I will be using "ceiling speakers" to create a sense of height. Not front height speakers on the front wall. I think we were just confused by the nomenclature.
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post #38755 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 04:37 PM
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Lee, You have to slow down on some of these and not disseminate false info....I hate to call you out, but I've seen a lot of erroneous things going by over the last several days. Not trying to insult, but trying to help you here so please don't take the wrong way....

Quote:
Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
When I ran AccuEQ it set my speakers up at 100-110hz. I'm not sure why it did that but my speakers are all good to about 60hz so I changed that to the THX standard of 80hz. I'm not comfortable with 1oohz or more going to my sub because once you get up over 100hz the sound is easier to localize, otherwise you can tell where its coming from. 80hz and below it's just bass that fills the room.
If you check your AVR, it likely has 120Hz LPF on the LFE channel. Nothing above that will go to your sub....
As for the XO statement....Audy will set the levels higher on your bed and height speakers sometimes due to room problems and in order to obtain the most linear magnitude response it can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
It should only effect the crossover points. Al the other EQ features, distance, speaker equalization, and level should not be effected.
You shouldn't lower XO points in Audy. Once Audy determines the desired XO for a speaker, it performs no EQ whatsoever below that value (say 100-110Hz in your example). By lowering it to 80Hz, then everything below that 110Hz down to 80Hz will be completely non-EQ'd. This likely could lead to single note mid-bass problems and extremely non-linear results....

Quote:
Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
I suggested the ceiling mount because the height speakers nomenclature is kind of deceiving. It's not just to create height but to actually envelope you. Otherwise, if something passes over head its hard to create that effect when the sound has to jump from the front wall to the back wall. When you have a ceiling mounted speaker that sound can actually travel over you without being simulated. That's why the primary atmos set up is with ceiling speakers, or speakers that reflect off the ceiling.
Height speakers are used in DTS:X as well. Keep in mind that nothing is being "simulated" per say. It's object rendering based on assigned speaker locations. Plus "Top" and "Height" essentially have the same angles. So theoretically, there should not be any difference as long as the speakers are located within spec (30-55° and 125-150° for example).
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post #38756 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyquest1426 View Post
Looking at this atmo thread: Are all the new movies being released from here on end going to be atmos? Looking to see if i am going to upgrade.
At this point the vast majority of movies are being released with a standard 7.1 track. I'm hopeful that with UHD we start seeing more Atmos/DTS:X titles hitting the market.
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post #38757 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoked21 View Post
If you check your AVR, it likely has 120Hz LPF on the LFE channel. Nothing above that will go to your sub....
Just wanted to be clear on something here: The LPF of LFE control only affects sound from the LFE channel itself, not managed bass from the other channels as dictated by the per-channel crossovers. For instance, if you have LPF of LFE set to 120 (as you should, always - no exceptions) and your other speakers crossed over at 160Hz, your subwoofer IS receiving bass above 120Hz for those channels. Those filters (LPF of LFE and the LPF applied to each channel based on each channel's defined crossover point) do not overlap as they are applied to those individual channels before they are summed into a single subwoofer output. The LPF of LFE control only affects the LFE channel's audio... which is typically brick-wall filtered at 120Hz during authoring anyway.

Also keep in mind that a 100Hz crossover isn't going to be as localizable to the subwoofer as you might think in all cases. The crossover point you're setting is the point where the speaker and sub are creating the sound at roughly equal amounts, and that transition is more gradual than most realize (dependent upon the slope of the two filters, though it's pretty standard). So if a speaker's anechoic -3dB point is 60Hz, that doesn't necessarily mean that you should cross it over at 60Hz to your sub... because that -3dB point indicates the speaker's natural rolloff. Setting the system crossover too close to the natural rolloff can cause a gap in frequency response or cause you to be hearing too much energy from the speaker as it starts to become muddied at the limit of its range. I tend to leave at least a half-octave of transition. So if a speaker's rated anechoic response is 50Hz, I set the crossover as close as possible to 75Hz. Doing this will give a smoother transition without the speaker's natural rolloff cascading with the filter applied by your AVR. Your speaker's in-room response will tend to be lower than the rated anechoic spec, which should aid in this transition.

If your AVR shows rough graphs of Audyssey's filters, you can use those to find the ideal crossover point. Look at the graph and you will typically see a point in the 20-100Hz range where the correction being applied goes from boost to cut (i.e. above the graph to below the graph). That will show you where Audyssey is detecting that it needs to start boosting that speaker, which tends to be where your speaker is starting to fall off naturally in your room. Crossing over at that point will work nicely for you because Audyssey's boost below that will level out the transition to the sub well before the true extension limits of the speaker itself.

Most importantly, if you have a particular set of speakers that you know are rated better and Audyssey is crossing them over abnormally high, try re-running it with closer attention to your mic positioning. Many times, things in the room itself can affect the way the mic capsule "hears" the sound from those channels, and some careful mic placement during Audyssey can give it a more accurate picture of what's going on in the room. Above and beyond that, if you have a set of speakers that always detect significantly off from what you know they should be capable of, you may have to address it with in-room treatments. No room EQ can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
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post #38758 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Anderson View Post
Just wanted to be clear on something here: The LPF of LFE control only affects sound from the LFE channel itself, not managed bass from the other channels as dictated by the per-channel crossovers. For instance, if you have LPF of LFE set to 120 (as you should, always - no exceptions) and your other speakers crossed over at 160Hz, your subwoofer IS receiving bass above 120Hz for those channels. .
Great clarification on bass mgmt Jeremy...Since he identified Audy crossing his beds at 100-110Hz, I ignored that part since we are off top anyway!
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post #38759 of 54989 Old 03-07-2016, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoked21 View Post
Lee, You have to slow down on some of these and not disseminate false info....I hate to call you out, but I've seen a lot of erroneous things going by over the last several days. Not trying to insult, but trying to help you here so please don't take the wrong way....


If you check your AVR, it likely has 120Hz LPF on the LFE channel. Nothing above that will go to your sub....
As for the XO statement....Audy will set the levels higher on your bed and height speakers sometimes due to room problems and in order to obtain the most linear magnitude response it can.


You shouldn't lower XO points in Audy. Once Audy determines the desired XO for a speaker, it performs no EQ whatsoever below that value (say 100-110Hz in your example). By lowering it to 80Hz, then everything below that 110Hz down to 80Hz will be completely non-EQ'd. This likely could lead to single note mid-bass problems and extremely non-linear results....



Height speakers are used in DTS:X as well. Keep in mind that nothing is being "simulated" per say. It's object rendering based on assigned speaker locations. Plus "Top" and "Height" essentially have the same angles. So theoretically, there should not be any difference as long as the speakers are located within spec (30-55° and 125-150° for example).
Dolby Atmos recommends ceiling speakers because effectively, not theoretically that's not true. It's much easier and does not require special mixing to create an over head sound when the speaker is actually overhead. The wider the seam is between the speakers the less believable the sound is as it passes from one speaker to the next. To create an overhead sound it requires a mix between the front height and rear height to fool your ears into thinking its overhead. If you have an actual top height speaker on the ceiling the transition is audibly much shorter and more realistic. The distance between the speakers (the seam) is shorter so much closer to seamless.

Using height speakers only on the opposing walls is a set up of necessity because of room limitations. If your able to mount ceiling speakers it is always more desirable when it comes to Atmos.

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post #38760 of 54989 Old 03-08-2016, 06:34 AM
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Hey guys... I finally finished my basement build. Marantz 7010 with Sony 40es and 7.2.4 setup. It's freaking awesome!!! Mad Max Fury Road was amazing in Atmos. I have one question from you guys, hopefully you have ran into this before. I purchased Game of Thrones S1, the steelbox version with Dolby Atmos, and when i play it and select "Dolby Atmos" as the audio it will only play as "Doly DTS + Dolby Surround". It still sounds good but shouldn't it show "Dolby Atmos" on the Marantz AVR like the Mad Max movie did??
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