The official Dolby Atmos thread (home theater version) - Page 1580 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #47371 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
Watched that scene twice earlier and it wouldn't activate my rear ceiling speakers either time, although a different DTS:X MA disk (Jason Bourne) and a bunch of TrueHD Atmos disks produced sound from all four overhead speakers without fail. Oh well, thanks for trying.
Are you just watching the LEDs to determine this? Generally there is threshold to activate activity LEDs that may not be being met. You could temporarily boost those channels to see if the LEDs activate.
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post #47372 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
You could temporarily boost those channels to see if the LEDs activate.
Or use a ladder and stick your ear next to the speaker.
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post #47373 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
I don't know what I would do without you guys. To amplify on my earlier post, I don't have the resources to actually confirm whether the front pair of overhead speakers were working when I was watching Atomic Blonde but think they were. As explained earlier, I know that the rear overheads were silent because the activity lights on the external amp that drives them don't light up. I thought the front overheads were working, though, because the Atomic Blonde audio sound field gave me the impression of immersion, something that doesn't happen if ceiling speakers aren't contributing.
Try switching the amp from auto on (signal detection.) To stay on all the time.

It sounds like this movie may not be tripping the auto on threshhold for the signal.

Also verify the front display on your Yamaha AVR shows DTS X.
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post #47374 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 11:17 AM
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Or use a ladder and stick your ear next to the speaker.
Also, I use a Christmas Wrapping Paper tube to check my Ceiling Atmos speakers
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post #47375 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 11:19 AM
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Also, I use a Christmas Wrapping Paper tube to check my Ceiling Atmos speakers
Very smart!
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post #47376 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 11:23 AM
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Very smart!
Wish I could take the credit for that idea... but, another crafty AVS'er posted that solution a while back somewhere Saves me a lot of hassle breaking out the ladder.
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post #47377 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
Not sure if this has been asked before. If you look at the signature in my post you'll see images of my game room.

I currently have a 7.1 system. My side surrounds are adaptive dipoles where tweeters fire out of phase. Tweeters are about 7 feet off the floor. And I have 10 foot ceilings.

Rear surround tweeters are about 7 feet off the floor but they are tilted down so they aim right towards our heads 22 feet away.

The reason why I am conflicted on Atmos *in my room* is because when I listen to 7.1 tracks now, when things fly overhead directly over the seating area, it kind of sounds like they are overhead already.

And the rain effect, like in the movie Gothika, sounds like it's all around us and you cannot pinpoint where the rain is coming from.

I'm guessing that's because of the Adaptive dipoles at the sides and the height above the seating position that gives it that diffused overhead sound.

I heard a buddy's Atmos system. But all of his speakers were direct firing And they were close to ear height. His room is much smaller than mine. And he did have ceiling mounted speakers.

Because a new Atmos receiver is a big chunk of change and I would need to go 7.1.2, just looking for a sanity check if anyone would expect a big Improvement in a room like mine.

-T
I also agree with @chi_guy50 's comments and wanted to reinforce that I think you could definitely get Atmos benefits with your current 7.1 setup. Yours is not terribly different from mine at the start (see my sig thread) though my rears are not high -- my "possible" conflict is between my high side surrounds and my RPs. But there is definitely a huge difference between "overhead" sound due to your speakers/setup and Atmos immersion. (As a side, I would encourage planning for a future outlay for 7.1.4.)

As you state, depending on the actual setup the dipoles might be problematic. Some dipoles can be reconfigured to bipole -- you might look into that. My sides are actually bipolar and don't cause any problems with precise Atmos imaging (at least, not that I can tell). That may have something to do with my bipole "corner" placement (pics in that thread).

But my main point is that a 7.1 system with great overhead audio can be hugely improved with an Atmos setup. Because your rears (like mine) are so far back, the Atmos speakers will likely overcome that elevation -- especially with a 7.1.4 setup. My "effective" placement of the Front and Rear Presence speakers approximate the Dolby Atmos 45* placement (precise degree is not critical).

Last comment: I too was distinctly put off by the cost of upgrading to Atmos. At every step of the way from AVR to FPs to RPs to new separate RP amp to new wiring and even minor home remodel, I fought internally (and with LOML) over whether to go farther. And every step produced a better and more usable result. By the final implementation, it was then even justifiable (to us both) to double that investment with a new 65" LG OLED. Also consider the additional benefits of DTS:X, Dolby Vision and HLG that will (or can) go along with the Atmos improvements sort of "buried" in the cost. The net result is as close to a "future-proof" home theater upgrade as you can make in 2016/17 (and likely even 2018). So consider this encouragement if you can swing it and a warning -- as with all HT activity, one step always seems to lead to another. Looking back, I am (we are) delighted. The process of getting here produced a lot of difficult and somewhat painful decision making.
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post #47378 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post
Try switching the amp from auto on (signal detection.) To stay on all the time.

It sounds like this movie may not be tripping the auto on threshhold for the signal.

Also verify the front display on your Yamaha AVR shows DTS X.
My 3060 does indeed indicate "DTS:X MA" when playing the Atomic Blonde soundtrack. I ran the test tones in my 3060's Setup section and confirmed that my rear overheads (identified by Yamaha as "Rear Presence") are both operating properly and so are the other speakers in my 7.2.4 setup.

My external amp does stay on all the time and the speakers it is attached to immediately reproduce the test tones. Also, when I engaged the "Enhanced" DSP on my 3060 while I was playing Atomic Blonde, the rear overheads worked. There's just something about the native Atomic BlondeDTS:X MA soundtrack that my setup doesn't like. Fortunately it's not a big deal because I can get things back to normal by activating the Enhanced DSP. Anyway, I can't thank everybody enough for your suggestions about my, typically, nerdy problem.

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post #47379 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 12:49 PM
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There's just something about the native Atomic BlondeDTS:X MA soundtrack that my setup doesn't like.
Does it make any difference if you change the Yamaha's speaker settings for the rear heights to rear tops, or vice versa?

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post #47380 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 01:10 PM
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Does it make any difference if you change the Yamaha's speaker settings for the rear heights to rear tops, or vice versa?
Maybe change your Presence definition from Top to Height or vice versa and see what happens?

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post #47381 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 02:08 PM
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Thanks to @jsgrise @sdurani @chi_guy50 and @richlife for replying.

So... I bit the bullet and ordered a 9-channel AVR (Onkyo RZ920). Got a good deal on it. I was already using a dedicated 7-channel amp for my 7.1, so now I have a sufficient number of amps to run a 7.1.4 setup.

As for side surrounds... I will evaluate the system with 4 ceiling speakers first... I may have to take some additional action on the side surrounds.
1. I could lower them... I would have to find low profile speakers since I do not want folks walking into them (my current side surround speakers are 6.5" deep)... it would be a tight fit to walk between the seating area and the wall... I pnly have 30" width from d=seat to wall
2. I could also see about rewiring the tweeters to fire in-phase... to make them bipoles... to reduce the null
3. I could replace the the sides and sell my Onix Rockets RSS300s here on AVS. Same issue as #1 ... need low profile replacements

Overall, I think my first option is to possibly rewire the tweeters and leave sides where they are due to the narrow walkway path.

I think I will install 6 ceiling speakers... that way, I can demo both 7.1.4 and 7.1.2 and get some future proof in there.

Again, thanks for the feedback you provided.

T
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post #47382 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 03:58 PM
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I think I will install 6 ceiling speakers... that way, I can demo both 7.1.4 and 7.1.2 and get some future proof in there.
Very wise idea!
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post #47383 of 54489 Old 12-16-2017, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jsgrise View Post
Maybe change your Presence definition from Top to Height or vice versa and see what happens?
I tried that but the rear presence speakers performed as I have described whether I had then defined as Top or Height: The Atomic Blonde DTS:X soundtrack wouldn't trigger the rear ceiling speakers in either configuration but the Jason Bourne DTS:X soundtrack worked normally with both configurations. It's a head scratcher.

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post #47384 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 04:57 AM
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I'm new on here and might be in the wrong spot, might be asking questions out of my league but, here goes.

I'm finishing my basement as we speak. I have purchased 7 Klipsch 5502 in wall speakers for my surround sound as well as a 12" Klipsch sub for my basement theater room (20x24 dedicated room). Wall speakers were a must as I fear my kids destroying anything else.

I have also wired for 4 ceiling speakers hoping to be able to add 4 Atmos speakers at some point in the future. I'm pretty green to the whole setup and don't know much of the terminology. I'm now at a point where I need to purchase an amp to run my system and am not sure what to buy.

Budget is an issue for me but I don't want to buy an amp that won't do what I want it to either. I've kind of settled on the Sony STR-DN1080 based solely on reviews but, in doing more research it seems this isn't capable of running a 7.2.4 system but, rather only a 5.1.2. I'm wondering if there is a better amp without jumping into the $1500+ range that will run my full setup now and have the ability to add Dolby Atmos speakers in a year or 2 when I've forgotten how much I've already spent.

I've also read about adding a second amp, not sure the terminology, that would run some of the speakers that the primary amp won't power. Is this an option with that receiver? If I can do that, the price point of this is great, especially considering it's on a pretty good sale now.

Thanks
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post #47385 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 05:23 AM
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I'm wondering if there is a better amp without jumping into the $1500+ range that will run my full setup now and have the ability to add Dolby Atmos speakers in a year or 2 when I've forgotten how much I've already spent.

I've also read about adding a second amp, not sure the terminology, that would run some of the speakers that the primary amp won't power. Is this an option with that receiver? If I can do that, the price point of this is great, especially considering it's on a pretty good sale now.

Thanks
Welcome to the rabbit hole!

You could get a refurbished Marantz SR7011 for 999$ . This receiver will expand to 7.2.4 with a external 2-channel amp. It is a great receiver!

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post #47386 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by brigham78 View Post
I'm new on here and might be in the wrong spot, might be asking questions out of my league but, here goes.

I'm finishing my basement as we speak. I have purchased 7 Klipsch 5502 in wall speakers for my surround sound as well as a 12" Klipsch sub for my basement theater room (20x24 dedicated room). Wall speakers were a must as I fear my kids destroying anything else.

I have also wired for 4 ceiling speakers hoping to be able to add 4 Atmos speakers at some point in the future. I'm pretty green to the whole setup and don't know much of the terminology. I'm now at a point where I need to purchase an amp to run my system and am not sure what to buy.

Budget is an issue for me but I don't want to buy an amp that won't do what I want it to either. I've kind of settled on the Sony STR-DN1080 based solely on reviews but, in doing more research it seems this isn't capable of running a 7.2.4 system but, rather only a 5.1.2. I'm wondering if there is a better amp without jumping into the $1500+ range that will run my full setup now and have the ability to add Dolby Atmos speakers in a year or 2 when I've forgotten how much I've already spent.

I've also read about adding a second amp, not sure the terminology, that would run some of the speakers that the primary amp won't power. Is this an option with that receiver? If I can do that, the price point of this is great, especially considering it's on a pretty good sale now.

Thanks
You are in a tough spot. If you purchase that Sony you mentioned, then you will essentially be throwing that money away in a year or two when you do upgrade to 7.1.4 (assuming you cannot remove the Sony to another room in the house and use it there).

It's Christmas time and sales will be coming. And I already see prices fluctuating on 9.2 Channel receivers. You'll have to spend a little more. But that means you won't be throwing money away tomorrow. You can probably get a pretty decent 9.2 Channel for $1,000 or less in the next couple of weeks. That means the receiver will have 9 amplifiers. Which which means it will do 7.1.2 right away.

Then in the future, all you have to do is add a 2-channel amplifier the power so that you can do a 7.1.4 set up.

It's cheaper to spend the money now versus "throwing away" Electronics.

-T
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post #47387 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 09:10 AM
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I'm wondering if there is a better amp without jumping into the $1500+ range that will run my full setup now and have the ability to add Dolby Atmos speakers in a year or 2 when I've forgotten how much I've already spent.
Unfortunately, IMO, an AVR that would best meet your needs at $799 closeout pricing (Denon X4300H) new has been recently sold out everywhere. However, if you don't mind refurbished, it may be possible to find it at Accessories4Less (A4L). It's a 9 channel (5.2.4 or 7.2.2) AVR with the capability of adding a 2 channel amp later for a full 7.2.4 system and fits well within your budget. Good luck with your search!
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post #47388 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
I tried that but the rear presence speakers performed as I have described whether I had then defined as Top or Height: The Atomic Blonde DTS:X soundtrack wouldn't trigger the rear ceiling speakers in either configuration but the Jason Bourne DTS:X soundtrack worked normally with both configurations. It's a head scratcher.
I would suspect the disk is the problem, disks have been known to have problems in the past.......sounds like you have eliminated most other possibilities.
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post #47389 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 12:13 PM
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Also, I use a Christmas Wrapping Paper tube to check my Ceiling Atmos speakers



I think I need a picture to visualize how that works.....just snap a selfie real quick......

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post #47390 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 12:14 PM
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I received my UHD HDR DTS:X MA copy of Atomic Blonde and watched it last night.
..
..
I noticed that the this DTS:X MA soundtrack wasn't engaging those speakers.
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I can very easily test this as well now. Yes, chapter/time code would be good...especially since this is one of the few discs I have left at the house (moving).

I have verified that the DTS:X Master audio track has both Top Front & Top Rear sound. I simply muted the AVR driving the bed layer, leaving only the overheads being driven from the second AVR. The fronts have different audio from the rears.

Chapter 16 / 1:21:00

Spoiler!
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post #47391 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 02:41 PM
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I have verified that the DTS:X Master audio track has both Top Front & Top Rear sound. I simply muted the AVR driving the bed layer, leaving only the overheads being driven from the second AVR. The fronts have different audio from the rears.
Thanks, Seth.

I wonder if someone with a Yamaha RX-A3060 (or any Yamaha for that matter) could see if they get the same missing channels. @Scott Simonian have you tried Atmoic Blonde? Not the beer, the movie.
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post #47392 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Thanks, Seth.

I wonder if someone with a Yamaha RX-A3060 (or any Yamaha for that matter) could see if they get the same missing channels. @Scott Simonian have you tried Atmoic Blonde? Not the beer, the movie.
In case any other owners of 7.2.4 capable Yamaha receivers are worried, let me hasten to explain that although I have had my Yamaha 3060 since June 2016 Atomic Blonde is the only title with immersive audio I have played that didn't work perfectly on my system.

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post #47393 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
In case any other owners of 7.2.4 capable Yamaha receivers are worried, let me hasten to explain that although I have had my Yamaha 3060 since June 2016 Atomic Blonde is the only title with immersive audio I have played that didn't work perfectly on my system.
Perchance, do you have any other DTS:X titles?

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post #47394 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Perchance, do you have any other DTS:X titles?
Yep, this post. I have a few other DTS:X MA titles too but can't recall what they are at the moment.

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB and Terra Server 24 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR; Roku Premiere+
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post #47395 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
You are in a tough spot. If you purchase that Sony you mentioned, then you will essentially be throwing that money away in a year or two when you do upgrade to 7.1.4 (assuming you cannot remove the Sony to another room in the house and use it there).

It's Christmas time and sales will be coming. And I already see prices fluctuating on 9.2 Channel receivers. You'll have to spend a little more. But that means you won't be throwing money away tomorrow. You can probably get a pretty decent 9.2 Channel for $1,000 or less in the next couple of weeks. That means the receiver will have 9 amplifiers. Which which means it will do 7.1.2 right away.

Then in the future, all you have to do is add a 2-channel amplifier the power so that you can do a 7.1.4 set up.

It's cheaper to spend the money now versus "throwing away" Electronics.

-T
A little help with that? I'm currently looking at the SR7011 myself and I'm unclear about the channels. I currently run a 7.1 system, can I only use 1 of the height channels? I see F,C,S,SB,H1,H2... Why would I need an external amp to run 7.1.4?
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post #47396 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaunceybland View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bone View Post
You are in a tough spot. If you purchase that Sony you mentioned, then you will essentially be throwing that money away in a year or two when you do upgrade to 7.1.4 (assuming you cannot remove the Sony to another room in the house and use it there).

It's Christmas time and sales will be coming. And I already see prices fluctuating on 9.2 Channel receivers. You'll have to spend a little more. But that means you won't be throwing money away tomorrow. You can probably get a pretty decent 9.2 Channel for $1,000 or less in the next couple of weeks. That means the receiver will have 9 amplifiers. Which which means it will do 7.1.2 right away.

Then in the future, all you have to do is add a 2-channel amplifier the power so that you can do a 7.1.4 set up.

It's cheaper to spend the money now versus "throwing away" Electronics.

-T
A little help with that? I'm currently looking at the SR7011 myself and I'm unclear about the channels. I currently run a 7.1 system, can I only use 1 of the height channels? I see F,C,S,SB,H1,H2... Why would I need an external amp to run 7.1.4?
The SR7011 is a 9.2 channel receiver... So that means it has 9 amplifiers. It supports 5.1.4 since it has enough amplifiers to power that system.

In your case, you want 7.1.4. Although the Marantz only has 9 amplifiers, it does the processing for 11 channels. So in order to have an 11 Channel system, you need 11 amplifiers. So that's why you need an external amplifier if you want to go 7.1.4.

But that Marantz will do 7.1.2 without an external amp. Which means only one set of height speakers.

-T

Edit.
The Marantz has pre outs for 11 channels.
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post #47397 of 54489 Old 12-17-2017, 11:12 PM
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I have verified that the DTS:X Master audio track has both Top Front & Top Rear sound. I simply muted the AVR driving the bed layer, leaving only the overheads being driven from the second AVR. The fronts have different audio from the rears.

Chapter 16 / 1:21:00

Spoiler!
Yup, all 4 worked on my viewing of that movie last night too (Denon AVR).

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post #47398 of 54489 Old 12-18-2017, 03:21 AM
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I have a Yamaha RX-A3060 and can confirm that DTS:X plays on the rear height channels on Atomic Blonde.

At roughly 1 minute into the movie, there is crowd cheering coming out of the rear top speakers. I stood on a chair and put my ear next to the right rear top speaker on my ceiling.

Then again at 9 minutes in, there is rain sound effects in the rear tops.

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Last edited by Craig Mecak; 12-18-2017 at 03:32 AM.
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post #47399 of 54489 Old 12-18-2017, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
My 3060 does indeed indicate "DTS:X MA" when playing the Atomic Blonde soundtrack. I ran the test tones in my 3060's Setup section and confirmed that my rear overheads (identified by Yamaha as "Rear Presence") are both operating properly and so are the other speakers in my 7.2.4 setup.

My external amp does stay on all the time and the speakers it is attached to immediately reproduce the test tones. Also, when I engaged the "Enhanced" DSP on my 3060 while I was playing Atomic Blonde, the rear overheads worked. There's just something about the native Atomic BlondeDTS:X MA soundtrack that my setup doesn't like. Fortunately it's not a big deal because I can get things back to normal by activating the Enhanced DSP. Anyway, I can't thank everybody enough for your suggestions about my, typically, nerdy problem.
I’m not sure we are communicating effectivately

[email protected]@king at this sell sheet for your Sonnace 2-100 amp
http://www.sonance.com/assets/media/files/downloads/Sonamp_Digital_Amps_Data_Sheet_120147.pdf


You said that your Sonnace amp lights one left one right for the rear elevation speakers. Does not come on for the movie Atomic Blonde. You verified that your Yamaha is receiving a DTS Master X signal. Thats a good sign. If you switch/add the DSP Mode to Enhanced you can now hear all four elevation speakers. I assume your sonnace amp l and r outputs light up also.

To me it’s possible that with this particular movie that the rear elevation output signal from your Yamaha AVR is not able to trigger the threshold to the auto on input signal sensor within the sonnace amp.

You have verified that it works correctly on all other movies. Works when you go into yout AVR test signals. Works with enhanced DSP Mode.

[email protected]@k in your owners manual for the sonnace amp. If the off selection turns off the auto function try that.

Or just try this.

To verify this. Should be simple to do. If the sonnace amp does indeed have three position selections for the input signal sensor.

On the back of your Sonnance 2-100 amp.

There is an input signal selection switch.

Auto On

Voltage
Off
Audio

If you select the off position. That should disable the auto signal detection.

Now your amp should be on all the time.

To turn the power to the amp on/off it [email protected]@k like there is a power button on the front that you can use.

I’m not familiar with this amp. So some of this is just a SWAG or a familiar Navy term SNAFU...

Good luck.......
Marc Alexander and gwsat like this.

Last edited by LNEWoLF; 12-18-2017 at 12:41 PM.
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post #47400 of 54489 Old 12-18-2017, 10:41 AM
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[email protected]@king at the Sonnace owner manual page 7.

http://www.sonance.com/assets/media/files/downloads/Sonamp_2-100_and_12-50_Manual_100559.pdf

It works like I thought.

I noticed in auto mode it states it take 12 seconds to turn on from standby power mode once an audio signal is recieved/detected. (Potentially this could be causing the amp to stay in stand by mode and not turning on during the movie Atomic Blond.)

Put the “Auto On” signal switch in the center position to leave amp powered on all the time. Located on back of amp.

Play Atomic Blond do you now have sound coming from your rear elevation speakers?

Trigger Mode Control 2-100 & 12-50You can set the Sonamp amplifiers so that they will automatically turn ON when it receives an audio signal, when it receives a control voltage from an external source, or to remain on and not enter standby.NOTE: IF EITHER AUDIO OR VOLTAGE TRIGGERS ARE SELECTED, THE AMPLIFIER HAS A 12 SECOND CYCLE TIME FROM STANDBY TO PLAY AN AUDIO SIGNAL. THIS IS NORMAL AND REQUIRED TO COMPLY WITH THE EU < .5 WATT ErP DIRECTIVE. (EC/1275/2008). SELECT OFF TO BYPASS THIS FEATURE. SEE POWER CONSUMPTION TABLE FOR IDLE POWER USE (SEE FIGURE 7). Auto On Triggering - Three Position SwitchAUDIOIn this mode, the amplifier will automatically turn ON when the minimum audio signal of 2.5 mV is detected at any of the inputs (Buss or LOCAL on the 12-50). This takes 12 seconds. The amplifier will turn OFF after 15 minutes of no input signal on any of the inputs.VOLTAGEWhen AUTO ON switch is in the left position, power will only turn on with a VOLTAGE of 3 to 30 volts AC or DC. Connect the trigger voltage source to the input of the voltage trigger using the left side of the green block connector. This takes 12 seconds. OFFWhen AUTO ON switch is in the center position, OFF, the amplifier will remain ON and will not go into standby mode.NOTE: WHEN THE AUTO ON SWITCH IS SET TO OFF THE AMPLIFIERS POWER SAVING FEATURE WILL BE DISABLED.12V Trigger OutputThe Sonamp has a 12V OUTPUT 2-wire screw connector found on the right side of the green block connector that provides 12V DC whenever the amplifier is ON. NOTE: THE CURRENT DRAW ON THE 12V TRIGGER OUTPUT CONNECTION SHOULD NOT EXCEED 200mA.

Last edited by LNEWoLF; 12-18-2017 at 12:45 PM.
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