The official Dolby Atmos thread (home theater version) - Page 1816 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 28350Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #54451 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 04:56 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
chi_guy50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,857
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2384 Post(s)
Liked: 2495
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
Can I check if you can do a mix of
Say Top Front (An Atmos position) with Rear Height (a DTS position?)

Thanks

Yes, that is a permissible configuration (I believe you have the Denon AVR-X8500H?). See p. 62 of your Owner's Manual.


But note that Rear Height is not specific to DTS; it is a common designation for Atmos, DTS, and Auro.



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Height Speaker Selection.jpg
Views:	377
Size:	252.2 KB
ID:	2568550  
sdurani and petetherock like this.

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D; Oppo UDP-203; Nvidia Shield TV; Roku Ultra; Denon AVR-X8500H (9.1.4/13.1); Polk Audio RTiA7 (Fl/r), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (Sl/r & FW), OWM5 (SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, RH); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Amazon Fire TV 4K, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
chi_guy50 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #54452 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 05:46 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
For the guys who were talking about Disney content...do you adjust the speaker levels in the receiver menu for all speakers, or just the Atmos and surround levels. I assumed that’s what someone meant when he mentioned the db level. You are using a spl meter to adjust the db? Thanks!
[email protected] is offline  
post #54453 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 06:05 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
petetherock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Back in Asia for now
Posts: 3,734
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1772 Post(s)
Liked: 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
Yes, that is a permissible configuration (I believe you have the Denon AVR-X8500H?). See p. 62 of your Owner's Manual.


But note that Rear Height is not specific to DTS; it is a common designation for Atmos, DTS, and Auro.



Thanks mate, I was trying to help a mate with a 6300 / 6400...
I'm using the front and rear height positions, cheers
petetherock is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #54454 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 08:13 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
chi_guy50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,857
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2384 Post(s)
Liked: 2495
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
Thanks mate, I was trying to help a mate with a 6300 / 6400...
I'm using the front and rear height positions, cheers

I see. That same chart applies to both of those models (p. 59 and 58 of the respective Owner's Manual).

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D; Oppo UDP-203; Nvidia Shield TV; Roku Ultra; Denon AVR-X8500H (9.1.4/13.1); Polk Audio RTiA7 (Fl/r), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (Sl/r & FW), OWM5 (SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, RH); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Amazon Fire TV 4K, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
chi_guy50 is offline  
post #54455 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 08:40 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
For the guys who were talking about Disney content...do you adjust the speaker levels in the receiver menu for all speakers, or just the Atmos and surround levels. I assumed that’s what someone meant when he mentioned the db level. You are using a spl meter to adjust the db? Thanks!
The Disney soundtracks have ALL the channels on a lower volume level, so you just need to increase the Main Volume to go to an acceptable level (+4, +5, +7dB - YMMV). The hardest channel hit by the Disney is the LFE, so you may want to edit the room correction curve for the 20-80Hz band (or whatever band are you using for the subwoofer) when you play a Disney/Marvel/Lucasfilm movie, on this forum you can find the Bass EQ for Filtered Movies thread where you can read about the adjustments needed for the LFE channel for each movie.
PioManiac likes this.
dfa973 is offline  
post #54456 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 09:49 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
b0rnarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,880
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2250 Post(s)
Liked: 1422
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
It begins. Et tu, Sony?
We watched Black Hawk Down from Sony last night. It’s legacy, so no theatrical Atmos mix as a basis for a consumer A/V Atmos release, but everything lights up on the I/O meters. The opening scene after the background history with the helicopter flyover gets the wides and my front side surrounds (SS1) going, and later scenes bring in the L/R (screen) centers. But in a .6 height setup it seems to put a lot of the overhead content into the Top Middles and expands at times into the front and rear tops.

Definitely worth the Bass EQ extra filters if you’ve the capability with your subs and processing. And the battle scenes are as good as I remember.
Black hawk down has several overhead sound scenes... overall the atmos mix is amazing.
sdurani, DMRSX and dfa973 like this.

LG 77C9PUB + Denon X4500H (11.2) + OPPO 203 + PS4 + Roku
Disc Lot For SALE : HERE!
b0rnarian is online now  
post #54457 of 58718 Old 05-19-2019, 02:30 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Thanks! Is there also another thread that mentions how to set the other channels parametric eq based on movie?
[email protected] is offline  
post #54458 of 58718 Old 05-20-2019, 12:14 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Hi. A few questions:
1) For those that have upfiring speakers/Dolby Atmos enabled speakers what crossover do you use on them
2) what master volume do you use to calibrate your volume trims. I used -20 dB master volume and my subwoofer hit 75 dB per my SPL Meter with a trim of 10 dB. The volume on the subwoofer was put 3/4 of the way up. I didn’t calibrate the other speakers yet because I felt it was too late considering the time I was running the test. I’m starting to realize how poor a job YPAO did. I also bought a laser distance pointer so I could get distances from the different listening positions.
[email protected] is offline  
post #54459 of 58718 Old 05-20-2019, 12:48 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi. A few questions:
1) For those that have upfiring speakers/Dolby Atmos enabled speakers what crossover do you use on them
The crossover depends on the actual frequency response of the speaker.

If, for example, the frequency response (+/-3dB) of your speaker is 68Hz - 20kHz, take the 68Hz, divide to 3 and add 1/3 to 68 => 68/3=22.6+68=90.6, so you can set the crossover at 90Hz for that speaker.
If the AVR has only global crossover (for all speakers, not individual crossovers) you will set the crossover at the highest value calculated for the "weakest" speaker, even if you have some speakers that can be set at lower values.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
2) what master volume do you use to calibrate your volume trims. I used -20 dB master volume and my subwoofer hit 75 dB per my SPL Meter with a trim of 10 dB. The volume on the subwoofer was put 3/4 of the way up. I didn’t calibrate the other speakers yet because I felt it was too late considering the time I was running the test. I’m starting to realize how poor a job YPAO did. I also bought a laser distance pointer so I could get distances from the different listening positions.
First, use the included YPAO (complete the calibration) and see the results and how did they sound to you.
Second, your subwoofer level is set a bit higher. You may want to start at 1/4 level, not 3/4. Do a calibration with 1/4 and test the resulting level - the AVR can let you modify the resulting level so you can adjust the level for the subwoofer (if you like it louder) without messing with the volume knob.
Third, no need for laser distance pointer, just let YPAO do its job and if not pleased, modify the results.
dfa973 is offline  
post #54460 of 58718 Old 05-20-2019, 02:18 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
batpig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 29,879
Mentioned: 172 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5122 Post(s)
Liked: 5712
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
The crossover depends on the actual frequency response of the speaker.

If, for example, the frequency response (+/-3dB) of your speaker is 68Hz - 20kHz, take the 68Hz, divide to 3 and add 1/3 to 68 => 68/3=22.6+68=90.6, so you can set the crossover at 90Hz for that speaker.
If the AVR has only global crossover (for all speakers, not individual crossovers) you will set the crossover at the highest value calculated for the "weakest" speaker, even if you have some speakers that can be set at lower values.
But specifically for up-firing speakers, the crossover shouldn't necessarily be at the "lowest safe value" as you describe. The lower frequencies should handed off which theoretically helps with the dispersion of the bounce by removing the more omnidirectional radiating frequencies.

When Atmos first came out there was talk of a fixed 180Hz crossover which redirects bass to the "paired" speaker at ear level (e.g. "Front Dolby" would pair with "Front", and "Surround Dolby" with "Surround"). I'm not sure if that actually happens in the typical Atmos AVR separate of the actual bass management to the sub, but I think most tend to favor a higher crossover (150Hz or 200Hz) for up-firing modules.
dfa973 likes this.

batpig's "Denon-to-English Dictionary"
Setup Guide and FAQ
http://batpigworld.com/

Become a fan "batpigworld.com" on Facebook!
batpig is online now  
post #54461 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 07:53 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
But specifically for up-firing speakers, the crossover shouldn't necessarily be at the "lowest safe value" as you describe. The lower frequencies should handed off which theoretically helps with the dispersion of the bounce by removing the more omnidirectional radiating frequencies.

When Atmos first came out there was talk of a fixed 180Hz crossover which redirects bass to the "paired" speaker at ear level (e.g. "Front Dolby" would pair with "Front", and "Surround Dolby" with "Surround"). I'm not sure if that actually happens in the typical Atmos AVR separate of the actual bass management to the sub, but I think most tend to favor a higher crossover (150Hz or 200Hz) for up-firing modules.
Thanks for the input.

Kim
[email protected] is offline  
post #54462 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 08:11 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
The crossover depends on the actual frequency response of the speaker.

If, for example, the frequency response (+/-3dB) of your speaker is 68Hz - 20kHz, take the 68Hz, divide to 3 and add 1/3 to 68 => 68/3=22.6+68=90.6, so you can set the crossover at 90Hz for that speaker.
If the AVR has only global crossover (for all speakers, not individual crossovers) you will set the crossover at the highest value calculated for the "weakest" speaker, even if you have some speakers that can be set at lower values.



First, use the included YPAO (complete the calibration) and see the results and how did they sound to you.
Second, your subwoofer level is set a bit higher. You may want to start at 1/4 level, not 3/4. Do a calibration with 1/4 and test the resulting level - the AVR can let you modify the resulting level so you can adjust the level for the subwoofer (if you like it louder) without messing with the volume knob.
Third, no need for laser distance pointer, just let YPAO do its job and if not pleased, modify the results.
Thanks for the feedback. However its actually mentioned that auto calibration is often incorrect. Please see the below links. Only informing you so perhaps you can optimize your system.
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-i...sound-quality/
https://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration
https://www.cnet.com/news/home-theat...dos-and-donts/

I ended up turning my subwoofer to the middle volume. I bought a laser seat pointer and a SPL meter, and I read after my inquiry on this thread is that the THX reference level is to have each speaker and subwoofer to emit 75 db at a 0 db master volume. After calibrating with the SPL meter and laser pointer I noticed that YPAO was off on distance, levels, and my upfiring speakers should be the distance of the sound to the ceiling + the distance from the spot the sound would hit the ceiling to the listeners ears. YPAO only had my Dolby Atmos enabled speakers 1 foot farther away than the front left and front right speakesr that the upfiring speaker is integrated in.
YPAO was very far off on my subwoofer too. The subwoofer integration was not good. Basically after finishing my calibration I can hear the left and right surrounds just as well as the other. With YPAO settings I heard much more left surround. Also the balance of the system is better, especially with the subwoofer. Definitely happy I bought a SPL meter and laser distance pointer.
DFA973, I would recommend looking into using a SPL meter and laser pointer. Perhaps in your setup YPAO worker better than mine, but the difference it provided mine is enormous. Just something you might want to think about if you have a home theater system that is not a sound bar. You don't want to spend thousands on a 5.1 non soundbar systems or bigger and get sound quality that isn't as good as a 2.1 satellite speaker system. I previously had the Bose Cinemate GS 2.

Kim

Last edited by [email protected]; 05-21-2019 at 08:18 AM.
[email protected] is offline  
post #54463 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 08:24 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
PioManiac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 6,562
Mentioned: 327 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3465 Post(s)
Liked: 8903
Calibration Software (YPAO/Audyssey/MCACC etc.)
measures the time it takes for sound signals to travel from the processor, to the speakers, then the sound waves to the mic.

The sub signal also has to pass through the amplifier/processor before sending a rather long Low Frequency wave to the mic.
The distance of your powered subwoofer may have been identified by your automatic setup as being further away than it physically is.
This is to compensate for phase matching with your other speakers. Even if the physical distance is closer than the setup microphone identified,
it is not advisable to change the subwoofer distance unless something really doesn’t sound right.

There are also a number of factors and room/furniture influences that will affect the time it takes for those sound waves to reach your MLP.

The "Distance" number is just a reference and should not be used to measure any physical locations of speakers or subs in your room.
What the software is actually doing is measuring delay for how long a sound signal takes to reach your mic, and subsequently your "ears"

Adding More Distance will apply less Delay to the Signal, Reducing the Distance will apply More Delay to the Signal.



==============================================

I will often use an SPL meter to level match all my speakers output (after YPAO), but I never adjust the speaker/sub distance numbers.
I also prefer to run my Subs 8 to 10dB Hot because a *House Curve helps LFE signals "sound" flat, as opposed to just "measuring" flat.

If you want to get serious about Sub Calibration, get Room EQ Wizard (REW) a free download
and a calibrated USB mic like a UMIK-1 that can actually measure down to 10Hz (YPAO mic is limited to 31Hz)


*What is a House Curve? : https://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ed-how-do.html

Getting Started with REW: A Step-by-Step Guide
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22823228

REW Download site
https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

REW users Forum
https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/

From the miniDSP website: miniDSP UMIK-1

The UMIK-1 mic must be calibrated with download file available on miniDSP site after you enter your serial number
(You need to use the 90º Calibration file to use your UMIK-1 in the upright (aimed at the ceiling) position (recommended for multi-channel and sub calibration)

UMIK-1 Calibration File load through REW, and make your first REW Sweep
https://www.minidsp.com/applications...setup-with-rew

$20 Boom Mic Tripod stand from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Oh...boom+mic+stand


The Unfinished Basement Theater & Whisky Guitar Lounge | Bass EQ for Filtered Movies
JVC DLA X750 4K Projector | 120" Powered Drop Screen | 65" LG 65B6P OLED | Panasonic DMP UB900 | Oppo UDP 203 | HDFury Vertex
Yamaha RX-A3070 | 7.4.4.4 | Mission M3i x11 | Funk Audio 18.0 x2 | Velodyne DLS 5000R x2 | Crowson LvL3 MA x4 | miniDSP 2x4HD

Last edited by PioManiac; 05-21-2019 at 07:16 PM.
PioManiac is offline  
post #54464 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 10:41 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Calibration Software (YPAO/Audyssey/MCACC etc.) measures the time it takes for sound signals to travel from the processor, to the speakers, then the sound waves to the mic.
The sub signal also has to pass through a powered subs amplifier/processor before sending a rather long Low Frequency wave to the mic.
There are also a number of factors and room/furniture influences that will affect the time it takes for those sound waves to reach your MLP.

The "Distance" number is just a reference and should not be used to measure any physical locations of speakers or subs in your room.
What the software is actually doing is measuring delay for how long a sound signal takes to reach your mic, and subsequently your "ears"

I will often use an SPL meter to level match all my speakers output (after YPAO), but I never adjust the speaker/sub distance numbers.
I also prefer to run my Subs 8-10dB Hot because a *House Curve helps lower LFE signals "sound" flat, as opposed to just "measuring" flat.

If you want to get serious about Sub Calibration, get Room EQ Wizard (REW) a free download
and a calibrated mic like a UMIK-1 that can actually measure down to 10Hz (YPAO mic is limited to 31Hz)


*What is a House Curve? : https://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ed-how-do.html

Getting Started with REW: A Step-by-Step Guide
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22823228

REW Download site
https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

REW users Forum
https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/

From the miniDSP website: miniDSP UMIK-1

The UMIK-1 mic must be calibrated with download file available on miniDSP site after you enter your serial number
(You need to use the 90º Calibration file to use your UMIK-1 in the upright (aimed at the ceiling) position (recommended for multi-channel and sub calibration)

UMIK-1 Calibration File load through REW, and make your first REW Sweep
https://www.minidsp.com/applications...setup-with-rew

$20 Boom Mic Tripod stand from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Oh...boom+mic+stand

Thanks for the elaborate answer. I'll have to consider getting the mic. However every site I looked at in putting in the distance mention to use a tape measure or laser pointer.

https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-t...eaker-setup/2/
http://www.audiogurus.com/learn/spea...s-distance/481
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/201...s-and-su-html/

Kim
[email protected] is offline  
post #54465 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 11:14 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thanks for the feedback. However its actually mentioned that auto calibration is often incorrect.
Until proven wrong, the integrated calibration is often good enough.
"Often incorrect" is a blanket statement, you need to find/state where is incorrect and by how much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I ended up turning my subwoofer to the middle volume. I bought a laser seat pointer and a SPL meter, and I read after my inquiry on this thread is that the THX reference level is to have each speaker and subwoofer to emit 75 db at a 0 db master volume. After calibrating with the SPL meter and laser pointer I noticed that YPAO was off on distance, levels, and my upfiring speakers should be the distance of the sound to the ceiling + the distance from the spot the sound would hit the ceiling to the listeners ears. YPAO only had my Dolby Atmos enabled speakers 1 foot farther away than the front left and front right speakesr that the upfiring speaker is integrated in.
The way that the room correction calibration is done in the receiver is different from how did you do it. It will never match.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
YPAO was very far off on my subwoofer too.
The off values that YPAO found for SW are normal. There are tons of information about calibration on this forum. Read, research and you will be enlightened about how calibration works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
DFA973, I would recommend looking into using a SPL meter and laser pointer. Perhaps in your setup YPAO worker better than mine, but the difference it provided mine is enormous. Just something you might want to think about if you have a home theater system that is not a sound bar. You don't want to spend thousands on a 5.1 non soundbar systems or bigger and get sound quality that isn't as good as a 2.1 satellite speaker system. I previously had the Bose Cinemate GS 2.
I do not have YPAO (but Audyssey), and I had no problem with my calibration, the distances, levels, and crossovers were pretty much spot-on. I have no need for SPL meter or laser meter.
What YPAO system do you have? Standard, RSC or RSC multipoint?
dfa973 is offline  
post #54466 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 11:47 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
Until proven wrong, the integrated calibration is often good enough.
"Often incorrect" is a blanket statement, you need to find/state where is incorrect and by how much.



The way that the room correction calibration is done in the receiver is different from how did you do it. It will never match.



The off values that YPAO found for SW are normal. There are tons of information about calibration on this forum. Read, research and you will be enlightened about how calibration works.



I do not have YPAO (but Audyssey), and I had no problem with my calibration, the distances, levels, and crossovers were pretty much spot-on. I have no need for SPL meter or laser meter.
What YPAO system do you have? Standard, RSC or RSC multipoint?
I have the standard YPAO. The below links recommended doing it with the laser pointer or tape measure and a SPL meter as it insinuates it being more accurate. Every google search I made on how to put the speaker distances in suggest measuring the distance. Good enough is ambiguous, but as long as it is good enough for you then I agree that there is no need for you to use anything other than auto calibration. I by no way meant to sound as though you should do something. And you are right in 'often incorrect' being a blanked statement. For me it means that it doesn't hit the THX reference standard of the speaker hitting 75 db with a 0 db master volume level in the test tone. It means that the distance it gives you isn't correct, and the speaker size is incorrect, and that it isn't in good balance. It measured my subwoofer and dolby atmos enabled speakers to be very far off. It was just a suggestion meant to give you options. I never said you should do it. I said you might want to think about it.
Using the YPAO levels I before mentioned in my prior post to you that I could not hear my right surrounds as well. I also turned on test tones for each speaker and the speakers weren't balanced from where I put the YPAO. The speakers produced different decibels.
Also YPAO labeled my surrounds as large speakers but they are not. Therefore the crossover wasn't correct either.
Theres a good chance what YPAO gave me isn't as good as what Audyssey gave you. https://www.whathifi.com/advice/how-...get-best-sound mentions Most calibration systems these days are largely accurate, but it’s always worth delving into the manual speaker settings to double-check the distances and levels, and tweak the results where needed. Trust your ears - if it sounds wrong, it probably is, so adjust away. Thats the reason why I got the SPL and laser pointer, but I'm glad yours worked well of you.


https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-t...eaker-setup/2/
http://www.audiogurus.com/learn/spea...s-distance/481
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/201...s-and-su-html/

Kim
[email protected] is offline  
post #54467 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 12:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I have the standard YPAO.
YPAO Standard is kind of crude room correction system, AFAIK it has a 62Hz limit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Also YPAO labeled my surrounds as large speakers but they are not.
This is normal (not a calibration error!!!), any speaker that is capable of below 50Hz is set as Large (regardless of its actual size), if not is set as Small. Large/Small is not about physical size, but low-frequency capabilities.
Every room calibration system does it, this is not specific to YPAO.
mrtickleuk likes this.
dfa973 is offline  
post #54468 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 12:22 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
PioManiac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 6,562
Mentioned: 327 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3465 Post(s)
Liked: 8903
Kim, You're posting in the wrong thread.
There are model specific threads for each Yamaha where your questions and inquiries should be posted.

This section of the forum is for ATMOS specific inquiries.
mrtickleuk likes this.

The Unfinished Basement Theater & Whisky Guitar Lounge | Bass EQ for Filtered Movies
JVC DLA X750 4K Projector | 120" Powered Drop Screen | 65" LG 65B6P OLED | Panasonic DMP UB900 | Oppo UDP 203 | HDFury Vertex
Yamaha RX-A3070 | 7.4.4.4 | Mission M3i x11 | Funk Audio 18.0 x2 | Velodyne DLS 5000R x2 | Crowson LvL3 MA x4 | miniDSP 2x4HD
PioManiac is offline  
post #54469 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 12:49 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
YPAO Standard is kind of crude room correction system, AFAIK it has a 62Hz limit.



This is normal (not a calibration error!!!), any speaker that is capable of below 50Hz is set as Large (regardless of its actual size), if not is set as Small. Large/Small is not about physical size, but low-frequency capabilities.
Every room calibration system does it, this is not specific to YPAO.
I never said it had a low of 40 hz or lower. The speaker it categorized as small has a low frequency of 60 hz. . The center and surrounds have the same speaker and YPAO designated the center channel as a small speaker. It is mentioned on websites that it at times categorizes speaker sizes incorrectly.

Kim

Last edited by [email protected]; 05-21-2019 at 01:00 PM.
[email protected] is offline  
post #54470 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 12:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Kim, You're posting in the wrong thread.
There are model specific threads for each Yamaha where your questions and inquiries should be posted.

This section of the forum is for ATMOS specific inquiries.
Sorry. My question was one part Atmos and one part sound calibration and I was just responding to users responses. I will direct any further questions regarding sound calibration and the Yamaha receiver to the appropriate threads.

Kim
[email protected] is offline  
post #54471 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 08:27 PM
Advanced Member
 
zeonstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 967
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeonstar View Post

Good evening

I am in the process of mounting my new rear height speakers. The mounts I am using will let me mount them on the wall but point them straight down towards my MLP but with the angle on the SVS Prime Elevations, They will point away from the wall a bit. With that in mind, I was wondering what best to set them to in my AVR. Am I better off setting them as Top Center or Top Rear?
zeonstar is online now  
post #54472 of 58718 Old 05-21-2019, 11:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeonstar View Post
I was wondering what best to set them to in my AVR. Am I better off setting them as Top Center or Top Rear?
Start with the natural assigning to Rear Heights and redo the calibration.
Then test the Top Rear (redoing the calibration, of course) and see how do you like it. Also, test with the front heights as Top Front instead of Front Heights.
dfa973 is offline  
post #54473 of 58718 Old 05-22-2019, 01:35 PM
Advanced Member
 
zeonstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 967
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
Start with the natural assigning to Rear Heights and redo the calibration.
Then test the Top Rear (redoing the calibration, of course) and see how do you like it. Also, test with the front heights as Top Front instead of Front Heights.
Good afternoon. I appreciate the reply, thank you. I will admit though, I am surprised by your answer. I got my speakers hung last night and they are like 90% pointing straight down towards my MLP. I thought putting them as Tops was a no-brainer and the only aspect I wasn't sure of was if I am better off with them as Top Middle or Top Rear.

It's funny you even suggested changing my front heights to front tops as that is something I have long meant to do, but have never gotten around to it. I even have the Audyssey app which makes it easy for me to have different configurations. I just ultimately decided that it seems best to indicate what the speakers actually are in my AVR as accurately as possible so if they are front heights, I should put them as such.

What could I gain if I was to change them to front tops? What could I lose? Does anyone else here set their Atmos speakers differently in their AVR to what they actually are in reality? (i.e. Putting what are actually front heights as top heights or whatever?)

***********

While I am here, I want to vent a little, get some thoughts out and maybe -- hopefully -- get some advice. As I mentioned, I hung my rear height speakers last night and instead of being excited, I was underwhelmed. Not by the performance, but how they look. For lack of a better word, they look ridiculous hanging on the wall. Now don't get me wrong, I was beyond excited do this and thrilled my wife OK'ed it. I haven't even talked to her since I finished hanging them last night so I don't even know her opinion, but if I think they look bad, I can only imagine what she thinks.

Quick aside: I was never planning to have any kind of rear height speakers in our current home. We have 2 young children and once they are a bit older and done with daycare in about 3 years (thus gaining a lot of extra income) we are going to move into a bigger place with at minimum 3 bedrooms so the kids have their own rooms. (Current place is a 2 bedroom townhouse.) Once we move, I will be able to plan our home theater from the beginning and go all out like I want, weather we end up with a dedicated space or just the living room, I'd be able to do more, put cables in walls, install ceiling speakers, all that. What we have now is suppose to be somewhat reasonable to "Hold me over." But I've gone a bit crazy with it and my wife has been super patient and accommodating.


I've said all that to say this: I woke up this morning thinking that I kind of want to just flush mount my rear height speakers using the normal mounts they come with. Mounting them high on the wall normally, in other words.

***I'd like to ask, would that work? I know it's not ideal but as long as it doesn't sound BAD, and actually adds to my system, that is what I want. I don't really hear height effects from my front heights as much as I would like. I think that is due to how far I am from my front sound stage more than anything. But it's really hard for me to pick up height effects from the front unless the sound to them is very discreet (and not much is coming from my LCR at the time) I would think, and hope, I would hear rear effects above me from the back speakers better, even if they are pointed out and not down at me.

Does anyone here have height effect speakers they point out instead of down? If so, how do you like it?


It's a compromise but I think it could work. My whole setup has always been a compromise anyway. Of course i care about them sounding good and I usually don't care about how speakers look hanging on a wall....but for some reason this time it's bugging me.





Thanks for reading!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	speakers2.jpg
Views:	540
Size:	339.7 KB
ID:	2570184  
zeonstar is online now  
post #54474 of 58718 Old 05-22-2019, 11:20 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
dfa973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: EU
Posts: 1,785
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked: 1231
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeonstar View Post
Good afternoon. I appreciate the reply, thank you. I will admit though, I am surprised by your answer. I got my speakers hung last night and they are like 90% pointing straight down towards my MLP. I thought putting them as Tops was a no-brainer and the only aspect I wasn't sure of was if I am better off with them as Top Middle or Top Rear.
You worry too much!
Set them for each allowed position and play some Atmos demos and Atmos movies and decide what configuration sound better to your ears. Every room is different and as you have found, speakers cannot be put only at ideal places, so you must test and decide.
Sharp1080 and richlife like this.
dfa973 is offline  
post #54475 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 08:04 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
richlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central NC
Posts: 1,528
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 856 Post(s)
Liked: 1071
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
You worry too much!
Set them for each allowed position and play some Atmos demos and Atmos movies and decide what configuration sound better to your ears. Every room is different and as you have found, speakers cannot be put only at ideal places, so you must test and decide.
Emphasis on that first comment and the last. When I put my new front and rear presence/heights/tops however you want to define them in place, I had far more room difficulties than you. The solution was days and days of placing, moving, adjusting, redoing all that and reconfiguring along the way. It definitely can get old, but the outcome will probably be "music to your ears". As has been said so many times in this forum, Atmos is very forgiving and actually pretty hard to screw up. Good luck. And even more for your future redos in a new place! Remember, it's fun!
gene4ht and dfa973 like this.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
richlife is offline  
post #54476 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 08:44 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
gene4ht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Troy, MI
Posts: 4,219
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2099 Post(s)
Liked: 2946
Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
Emphasis on that first comment and the last. When I put my new front and rear presence/heights/tops however you want to define them in place, I had far more room difficulties than you. The solution was days and days of placing, moving, adjusting, redoing all that and reconfiguring along the way. It definitely can get old, but the outcome will probably be "music to your ears". As has been said so many times in this forum, Atmos is very forgiving and actually pretty hard to screw up. Good luck. And even more for your future redos in a new place! Remember, it's fun!
Emphasis on the last! Also...experimentation is the key as all rooms have different challenges/constraints and we all have personal tastes and preferences...one size does not fit all. It is indeed difficult to get ATMOS wrong...just requires seasoning to taste.
richlife and dfa973 like this.

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
gene4ht is online now  
post #54477 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 11:08 AM
Advanced Member
 
zeonstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 967
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfa973 View Post
You worry too much!
Set them for each allowed position and play some Atmos demos and Atmos movies and decide what configuration sound better to your ears. Every room is different and as you have found, speakers cannot be put only at ideal places, so you must test and decide.
I know I do. I don't mean to. I'm going to try the speakers set in different configurations and and run Audyssey a few times tomorrow and see what I like. I have the day off to play around with things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
Emphasis on that first comment and the last. When I put my new front and rear presence/heights/tops however you want to define them in place, I had far more room difficulties than you. The solution was days and days of placing, moving, adjusting, redoing all that and reconfiguring along the way. It definitely can get old, but the outcome will probably be "music to your ears". As has been said so many times in this forum, Atmos is very forgiving and actually pretty hard to screw up. Good luck. And even more for your future redos in a new place! Remember, it's fun!
I'd be curious to hear the story of your height speakers and the issues you had, and where you ultimately ended up. It's funny you mention Atmos being forgiving because that sort of occured to me last night. When I decided to put my speakers on the wall normally instead of using brackets to point them down, I realized they will still sound good, even pointing "Out." I want sound above me, and that is the effect I get.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Emphasis on the last! Also...experimentation is the key as all rooms have different challenges/constraints and we all have personal tastes and preferences...one size does not fit all. It is indeed difficult to get ATMOS wrong...just requires seasoning to taste.
I look forward to running some calibrations tomorrow with the speakers set in different configurations in my AVR and then watching some movies.

Thank you all for the input. I appreciate it.
dfa973 likes this.
zeonstar is online now  
post #54478 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 11:22 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
richlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central NC
Posts: 1,528
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 856 Post(s)
Liked: 1071
[QUOTE=zeonstar;58089248...


I'd be curious to hear the story of your height speakers and the issues you had, and where you ultimately ended up. It's funny you mention Atmos being forgiving because that sort of occured to me last night. When I decided to put my speakers on the wall normally instead of using brackets to point them down, I realized they will still sound good, even pointing "Out." I want sound above me, and that is the effect I get.

...[/QUOTE]

You'll find complete details of my setup and use in the first link in my signature. I know some use devices that don't show that link so here is where it goes. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...cial-room.html

You'll see a number of comments and a few who disagree with using DAES or whatever. But if you get something going and have outstanding results, it's pretty hard to give the deniers much credence.

Edit: And BTW, @zeonstar , I've seen many speaker setups and recommendations to mount heights on the wall pointing "out" with great success. The reality is that while you may think "down" is the way to go, most of those who use down have in-ceiling speakers with no directivity or that's just what their configuration demands. If you have the option to experiment -- well, we've said it, you agree -- experiment. You'll see in my thread that, due to my slanted ceiling, I actually "experimented" with my front DAES in all positions from flat on the unit to elevated up to 45* in 1/16" increments until I found the angle that was notably best -- and then shifted them to point to my MLP which yielded another improvement. You can see I didn't do this all at once. But like your day off, I did what I could/wanted when I could/wanted. While I haven't touched this setup in about 2 years, I still have a list of things to experiment with more. But the system sounds so damn good, I can't really say I'm highly motivated. Someday...

Another BTW, I think you said you have Audessey. I have YPAO. If your AVR will allow you to save configuration elements to a PC, that's a great help. I just rename with key words that describe what I did, go back if needed and Save again until I find a better config -- or not.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS

Last edited by richlife; 05-23-2019 at 11:39 AM.
richlife is offline  
post #54479 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 12:03 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeonstar View Post
Good afternoon. I appreciate the reply, thank you. I will admit though, I am surprised by your answer. I got my speakers hung last night and they are like 90% pointing straight down towards my MLP. I thought putting them as Tops was a no-brainer and the only aspect I wasn't sure of was if I am better off with them as Top Middle or Top Rear.

It's funny you even suggested changing my front heights to front tops as that is something I have long meant to do, but have never gotten around to it. I even have the Audyssey app which makes it easy for me to have different configurations. I just ultimately decided that it seems best to indicate what the speakers actually are in my AVR as accurately as possible so if they are front heights, I should put them as such.

What could I gain if I was to change them to front tops? What could I lose? Does anyone else here set their Atmos speakers differently in their AVR to what they actually are in reality? (i.e. Putting what are actually front heights as top heights or whatever?)

***********

While I am here, I want to vent a little, get some thoughts out and maybe -- hopefully -- get some advice. As I mentioned, I hung my rear height speakers last night and instead of being excited, I was underwhelmed. Not by the performance, but how they look. For lack of a better word, they look ridiculous hanging on the wall. Now don't get me wrong, I was beyond excited do this and thrilled my wife OK'ed it. I haven't even talked to her since I finished hanging them last night so I don't even know her opinion, but if I think they look bad, I can only imagine what she thinks.

Quick aside: I was never planning to have any kind of rear height speakers in our current home. We have 2 young children and once they are a bit older and done with daycare in about 3 years (thus gaining a lot of extra income) we are going to move into a bigger place with at minimum 3 bedrooms so the kids have their own rooms. (Current place is a 2 bedroom townhouse.) Once we move, I will be able to plan our home theater from the beginning and go all out like I want, weather we end up with a dedicated space or just the living room, I'd be able to do more, put cables in walls, install ceiling speakers, all that. What we have now is suppose to be somewhat reasonable to "Hold me over." But I've gone a bit crazy with it and my wife has been super patient and accommodating.


I've said all that to say this: I woke up this morning thinking that I kind of want to just flush mount my rear height speakers using the normal mounts they come with. Mounting them high on the wall normally, in other words.

***I'd like to ask, would that work? I know it's not ideal but as long as it doesn't sound BAD, and actually adds to my system, that is what I want. I don't really hear height effects from my front heights as much as I would like. I think that is due to how far I am from my front sound stage more than anything. But it's really hard for me to pick up height effects from the front unless the sound to them is very discreet (and not much is coming from my LCR at the time) I would think, and hope, I would hear rear effects above me from the back speakers better, even if they are pointed out and not down at me.

Does anyone here have height effect speakers they point out instead of down? If so, how do you like it?


It's a compromise but I think it could work. My whole setup has always been a compromise anyway. Of course i care about them sounding good and I usually don't care about how speakers look hanging on a wall....but for some reason this time it's bugging me.





Thanks for reading!
I googled rear height speakers and the first article that came up said the below. Please click the link for the full article.

Height Speaker Channels
The height speaker channels should be placed in the upper left/right corners of the front stage. Typically, this will be 40-45 degrees off-axis and about 8 feet in height. A downward tilt of the speaker will improve mid/high frequency response and reduce ceiling bounce reflections.

The height speakers enhance imaging in the vertical plane and can even be used to create sound effects which seem to come from directly above the listening position, which provides total immersion into the surround sound experience.

https://www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/74...aker-placement

As for Atmos being forgiving it really depends on the speakers. I have a small living room so I bought a 5.1.2 system which is designed for a small to medium size room. In a big room you wouldn't notice the height dimension much.
Also for reference clips I recommend the Dolby Access app. What kind of tv do you have? I have a LG65C8 and it is available in the Smart TV app store. I would check it out if you have access to it as there is some amazing content. I think the best test of it is 3 or 4 minute surfing clip. It really uses the Atmos speakers and you should be very immersed in it all of the way from the height speakers to the surround sound. It seems to me to have a reference level soundtrack.

Kim
[email protected] is offline  
post #54480 of 58718 Old 05-23-2019, 01:54 PM
Advanced Member
 
zeonstar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 967
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 712 Post(s)
Liked: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
You'll find complete details of my setup and use in the first link in my signature. I know some use devices that don't show that link so here is where it goes. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...cial-room.html

You'll see a number of comments and a few who disagree with using DAES or whatever. But if you get something going and have outstanding results, it's pretty hard to give the deniers much credence.

Edit: And BTW, @zeonstar , I've seen many speaker setups and recommendations to mount heights on the wall pointing "out" with great success. The reality is that while you may think "down" is the way to go, most of those who use down have in-ceiling speakers with no directivity or that's just what their configuration demands. If you have the option to experiment -- well, we've said it, you agree -- experiment. You'll see in my thread that, due to my slanted ceiling, I actually "experimented" with my front DAES in all positions from flat on the unit to elevated up to 45* in 1/16" increments until I found the angle that was notably best -- and then shifted them to point to my MLP which yielded another improvement. You can see I didn't do this all at once. But like your day off, I did what I could/wanted when I could/wanted. While I haven't touched this setup in about 2 years, I still have a list of things to experiment with more. But the system sounds so damn good, I can't really say I'm highly motivated. Someday...

Another BTW, I think you said you have Audessey. I have YPAO. If your AVR will allow you to save configuration elements to a PC, that's a great help. I just rename with key words that describe what I did, go back if needed and Save again until I find a better config -- or not.

I started reading your thread. I am not done but already fascinated. Wasn't sure if I should comment about it here or in your thread but I will just briefly say your challenges make mine seem like small time. My challenge is really just limited to do I point my rear speakers down or face them out. That really is the long and short of it. I can't be moving speakers all around in our situation so that limits what I need to worry about, for good or ill. But your setup and what you went through to optimize it is impressive. If I may ask for a spoiler, did you end up using DAES? I haven't read that far yet but I would not of thought those were even an option for you with your ceilings. Likewise for me, we have stucco ceilings which pretty much made me never even consider DAES since they need to bounce sound and it's hard to bounce sound into sound-absorbent material!

As much as I like experimenting, tomorrow will hopefully -- mostly -- be for a few movies. I don't often get the house to myself where I can crank it to the way I like.

I have the Audyssey EQ App on my iPad which lets me save, edit, and rename multiple configurations and then zap them to my Denon. I will be running Audyssey at least twice tomorrow to make a profile with my speakers all set to Heights, and all of them set to Tops.


Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I googled rear height speakers and the first article that came up said the below. Please click the link for the full article.

Height Speaker Channels
The height speaker channels should be placed in the upper left/right corners of the front stage. Typically, this will be 40-45 degrees off-axis and about 8 feet in height. A downward tilt of the speaker will improve mid/high frequency response and reduce ceiling bounce reflections.

The height speakers enhance imaging in the vertical plane and can even be used to create sound effects which seem to come from directly above the listening position, which provides total immersion into the surround sound experience.

https://www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/74...aker-placement

As for Atmos being forgiving it really depends on the speakers. I have a small living room so I bought a 5.1.2 system which is designed for a small to medium size room. In a big room you wouldn't notice the height dimension much.
Also for reference clips I recommend the Dolby Access app. What kind of tv do you have? I have a LG65C8 and it is available in the Smart TV app store. I would check it out if you have access to it as there is some amazing content. I think the best test of it is 3 or 4 minute surfing clip. It really uses the Atmos speakers and you should be very immersed in it all of the way from the height speakers to the surround sound. It seems to me to have a reference level soundtrack.

Thanks for the link. I'd say our room is on the larger side, especially if you consider the dining area is part of it. (thought my "setup" doesn't spill into there.) I sit about 14 feet from my TV. I wish I could be closer but it is what it is.

I actually have your exact TV and I love the Dolby Access app! Though I'm still annoyed they got rid of the best demo it had, that "Core Universe" one. Ugh! But anyway yeah I do have it. I don't think I have actually watched that surfing video you mentioned though.

Fortunately, I actually have no shortage of Dolby Atmos and DTS:X content. In all, I have over 100 movies in those formats. (Mostly Atmos.) I even have a Dolby Atmos and a DTS:X demo disc. . However, I have only watched most of these movies once since purchasing them so I don't really know all that well which movies have the best Atmos that really stands our for evaluating setups. Setup and evaluation aside, I get the feeling I am going to have a much better experience with all them now that I will have Rear Height speakers.
zeonstar is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Receivers, Amps, and Processors

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off