The official Dolby Atmos thread (home theater version) - Page 1919 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #57541 of 58884 Old 02-04-2020, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
That would be the way to go for me. You will genuinely not lose anything, since you will not hear any separation between sounds from the high-mounted surrounds and TR in the other setup.

a) is, IMO, pointless for the reasons already given.
b) if you can get much better angular separation between the surrounds and the TR, this would be better than a) but may still not give a great result with the surrounds so high up.
c) That would be the best out of these three options, but I would still go with 5.1.2 as I think that in your room 5.1.4 wouldn't really be all that much, if any, better than the other options.

Let me clarify something as I want to learn from this.

Choice C, while being the best among the three, still isn't acceptable with a 5.1.4 setup because in location B, the rear surrounds, despite being brought down to its position, are now too near the back of our head and will be easily localized even if it is a bipole. Did I get this right?

Also, what do you mean by "angular separation"? Will the Kef Q50a or SVS elevation give me angular separation as it is pointing downwards? What is "TR" ?


Thanks.

Last edited by joms; 02-04-2020 at 01:24 PM.
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post #57542 of 58884 Old 02-04-2020, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
I always like my ears to have 'line of ear' to each speaker, even if that means deviating slightly from 'recommended guidelines'. In my case for example, my side surrounds would fire directly into the heads of the listeners either side of me, so I raised them up a bit, even though strictly speaking I advocate surrounds at ear level for Atmos. As ever, common sense prevails.
Raised em 4” to match front towers. Aesthetically better looking too a bit higher and clears the seatbacks of the recliners...happy camper!
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post #57543 of 58884 Old 02-04-2020, 02:17 PM
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I posted this in the Speaker thread but did not get a response.

I was wondering if any one had any experience or thoughts on using a single speaker, designed for stereo (example being the HTD SDX-S65), for atmos use?

My room has a vaulted ceiling with a flat service, around 2 feet, in the middle that I have my atmos speakers in. I was just curious if maybe using speakers like the one I talk about would be worth it?

Also how do you think this would affect room correction such as Audyssey?

Thanks in advance.
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post #57544 of 58884 Old 02-04-2020, 10:50 PM
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Here's what I ended up with for my rear and front in-ceiling Atmos speaker locations. The fronts locations will allow me to pass the wires through a false roof to the rears with this location. Running the wiring is going to be a bit of a challenge. I'm also going to run wiring to the front L&R area while I'm at it for future use in case I ever get a processor that will do .6, or whatever else technology change pops up that may require a couple more speakers in the front ceiling area. Next step is to cut the holes and watch the blown in insulation make a mess all over my room. I bought this special circle cutter and practiced on a piece of sheetrock. It makes a really nice circle. Then I have to paint the speakers matte black, as well as my in ceiling lights which have been white for almost 24 years.
Regarding running the wiring, I have a difficult ceiling also - no blown insulation but R40 fiberglass - with scissor trusses plus a tiny access area to work in. I found the 16' long pieces of 1/2"pex water line from Lowes or HD worked wonders. Tried fish tape and that was terrible, but was easily able to maneuver the pex where I needed it. I looped from left rear to right rear then to front right, running scrap wire or clothesline. Then left front to right front and from there into a wall cavity and down, used the scrap wire to hook the actual speaker wire to to pull the run. I used about 225' of wire total. Got 14-2 speaker cable rated for in-wall. Hope you have better access than I did, but it was well worth the effort.
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post #57545 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by joms View Post
Let me clarify something as I want to learn from this.

Choice C, while being the best among the three, still isn't acceptable with a 5.1.4 setup because in location B, the rear surrounds, despite being brought down to its position, are now too near the back of our head and will be easily localized even if it is a bipole. Did I get this right?

Also, what do you mean by "angular separation"? Will the Kef Q50a or SVS elevation give me angular separation as it is pointing downwards? What is "TR" ?


Thanks.
Yes, my view is that 5.1.2 is the way I would go in your room. TR is Top Rear (TF is Top Front and TM is Top Middle) - the designations in your AVR for the ceiling speakers.

Angular separation is the 'angle difference' from MLP to the relevant speakers. Take a look at this frequently posted diagram:



Note where the LCR and surrounds are in relation to the ceiling speakers in this 'ideal' layout.
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post #57546 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Yes, my view is that 5.1.2 is the way I would go in your room. TR is Top Rear (TF is Top Front and TM is Top Middle) - the designations in your AVR for the ceiling speakers.

Angular separation is the 'angle difference' from MLP to the relevant speakers. Take a look at this frequently posted diagram:



Note where the LCR and surrounds are in relation to the ceiling speakers in this 'ideal' layout.
Thanks for the diagram, that's very informative.

Actually what i originally planned to use for my 5.1.4 setup is Top front and Top Middle only, there will be no Top rear since the rear atmos speakers will be directly above my head.
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post #57547 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 07:28 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but on processors that allow .6, I don't think you can run only TM & TF without TR?

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post #57548 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
Regarding running the wiring, I have a difficult ceiling also - no blown insulation but R40 fiberglass - with scissor trusses plus a tiny access area to work in. I found the 16' long pieces of 1/2"pex water line from Lowes or HD worked wonders. Tried fish tape and that was terrible, but was easily able to maneuver the pex where I needed it. I looped from left rear to right rear then to front right, running scrap wire or clothesline. Then left front to right front and from there into a wall cavity and down, used the scrap wire to hook the actual speaker wire to to pull the run. I used about 225' of wire total. Got 14-2 speaker cable rated for in-wall. Hope you have better access than I did, but it was well worth the effort.
Thanks for the tip on the PEX. I bought the fiberglass wire pulling rods from HF, so I'll see how that goes. The back of the room inside the false roof has batting type insulation, but the rest of the room is the messy blown in stuff.

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post #57549 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on processors that allow .6, I don't think you can run only TM & TF without TR?
That is correct. When you configure for x.x.4 (even if the receiver/processor allows up to x.x.6), you cannot have two heights in adjacent positions.

You can't do TF and TM. However, you can do FH and TM, because there's a position open between them.

When you configure for x.x.6, then you can do adjacent positions of TF, TM, and TR.
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post #57550 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 09:16 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but on processors that allow .6, I don't think you can run only TM & TF without TR?
He should just set either top front to front height or top middle to top rear. The info from top rear just gets moved to top middle anyway and vice versa when all aren't available. I noticed that immediately with the various Atmos demos when I knocked things down to 5.1.4.

The same is true for side/rears. They're getting the same thing when one isn't present. I think you have to call the speakers behind you side surrounds if you only have surrounds in a lot of software. It doesn't matter since it carries the same signals regardless. Rendering doesn't really mean jack up to 7.1.4 as it has nowhere to move major missing speaker content except to the next nearest pair.

Neural X attempts to image closer to where things should be by leaking array info to other speakers, but it seems like most people hate that with a passion for no reason other than they've been taught to believe discrete is best at all times despite the fact your brain often can't tell the difference.

@eta1345 Regarding two in one speakers. It's hard to answer. Yes, it will function. Whether you get enough separation to tell it from one combined channel is highly questionable. But 6.1 was still better than 5.1 here so it seems like any overhead content us better than none. The VOG channel for Auro-3D works well enough blending with nearby speakers and it's only on me channel in the middle.
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post #57551 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 09:27 AM
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post #57552 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by joms View Post
Thanks for the diagram, that's very informative.

Actually what i originally planned to use for my 5.1.4 setup is Top front and Top Middle only, there will be no Top rear since the rear atmos speakers will be directly above my head.
Just to elaborate a little on what the others have said, most AVRs do not allow adjacent pairs to be used for the overhead layout so TF + TM isn't a permitted combination. However FH (Front Height) and TM is, and that may suit you. If you look at the diagram, you will see that there is considerable 'overlap' between the designated speaker sets, so clearly Dolby did not feel that the speaker placement has to be all that precise anyway. As ever, use common sense and judgement along with the practical room limitations which affect almost all of us and remember that you are trying to create a 'dome' of sound as best you can. I am confident that you will find that "some Atmos beats no Atmos at all".
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post #57553 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
I really am behind the curve on much of the latest developments.
No big developments in immersive audio except for the DTS:X Pro label for devices that go beyond 11 outputs. When playing back DTS:X 7.1.4 tracks on a 9.1.2 layout, matrix centre extraction (2 in, 3 out) was used to feed the Wides, like it did on your old Denon receiver. That upscaling of channels is still part of DTS:X decoding, but with Pro there is the opportunity to use it for many more speakers that are between channels.

Atmos is still Atmos, just that home mixes have gotten worse. For example, Disney has gone from pre-rendered 7.1.4 tracks to 7.1.2 encodes (ironically, right when affordable 9.1.6 gear is starting to show up). Unfortunately, "Disney" means Walt Disney Productions, Disney Animation, Pixar, Marvel, Lucasfilm, and now Fox. So their lazy approach to home Atmos mixes affects a lot of the most popular movie titles.

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post #57554 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 10:08 AM
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No big developments in immersive audio except for the DTS:X Pro label for devices that go beyond 11 outputs. When playing back DTS:X 7.1.4 tracks on a 9.1.2 layout, matrix centre extraction (2 in, 3 out) was used to feed the Wides, like it did on your old Denon receiver. That upscaling of channels is still part of DTS:X decoding, but with Pro there is the opportunity to use it for many more speakers that are between channels.

Atmos is still Atmos, just that home mixes have gotten worse. For example, Disney has gone from pre-rendered 7.1.4 tracks to 7.1.2 encodes (ironically, right when affordable 9.1.6 gear is starting to show up). Unfortunately, "Disney" means Walt Disney Productions, Disney Animation, Pixar, Marvel, Lucasfilm, and now Fox. So their lazy approach to home Atmos mixes affects a lot of the most popular movie titles.
So all Walt Disney discs and streaming has only 1 L&R overhead/Atmos channel?

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post #57555 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 10:17 AM
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Atmos is still Atmos, just that home mixes have gotten worse. For example, Disney has gone from pre-rendered 7.1.4 tracks to 7.1.2 encodes (ironically, right when affordable 9.1.6 gear is starting to show up). Unfortunately, "Disney" means Walt Disney Productions, Disney Animation, Pixar, Marvel, Lucasfilm, and now Fox. So their lazy approach to home Atmos mixes affects a lot of the most popular movie titles.
For what it's worth, Netflix isn't always encoding in 7.1.4 on their content. Releases like 6 Underground and their Dracula mini-series made use of beyond 7.1.4 or 7.1.2 during certain scenes. At least that's what I saw on my Altitude's input meters. And wasn't Altered Carbon 9.1.6? And the Atmos track on Fox’s Ford vs. Ferrari on Apple+ had scenes where all of my presence speakers lit up in sequence during racing scenes. I'll see if I can document some when I watch the movie again. So while worse is happening more often due to the volume from the Mouse Collective, there's still bright spots out there.

I'll note that even on a release like Star Wars Ep 4 (A New Hope) that while the vast majority of the film is at most 7.1.2, there's times that you'll see front/rear heights or wides light up very momentarily as a kind of exclamation point, above and beyond 7.1.2. Think the scene when the Millennium Falcon leaves hyperspace and winds up in the debris of what was Alderaan. So while I agree Disney is lazy - I think you even lose that effect once you get to the Ep. 7-9/post ROTJ films that really are encoded in 7.1.4 - strictly speaking it's not just a 7.1.2 encode on those films. Just 95% or 97% mixed that way.

Besides, once DTS:X Pro and its Neural:X component removes the 11 channel limit for folks other than Trinnov owners, I think you'll see that as the compromise solution if a user really wants all the speakers firing away, all the time. Of course, that means either selecting a 5.1/7.1 track or more typically, outputting the source as PCM to remove the metadata and give Neural:X a clean slate, so to speak, for upmixing beyond 7.1.
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post #57556 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 10:21 AM
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Maybe this is the wrong place to post this (I apologize if so), but I have read the entire thread over the past few weeks prior to completing my atoms set-up and this seems the most appropriate place.

I am going to have a 6.1.4 setup (only 1 surround back, but that is a different topic, irrelevant to my current question). A Denon AVR x4400 will be the main AVR. I have an old Denon AVR 1712 that I plan to use to power the 2 top/rear speakers, BUT, I also plan to use the "Zone 2" assignment of the AVR to allow FOUR total externally power channels (top/rear AND top/front atmos speakers). I've read up on this and it seems this is completely possible if I turn the "amp assign" on the 1712 to zone 2, and hook up stereo RCA inputs to 2 different sources (BD and DVD for example) from the appropriate pre-outs on my 4400; I will just be running both zone 1 and zone 2 at the same time, with different input sources (correlating with the RCAs I have plugged into the back from the pre-outs on the 4400).

So, the question is, I will turn the 1712 to "Pure Direct" mode, but will this also apply to zone 2? If it does not apply to zone 2, will it even matter after I run Audessy on the 4400? Or, does this level of detail even matter at all given the sound that will be going through these speakers?

By the way, I know that I don't HAVE to use an external amp for more than just 2 channels, but I see no reason NOT to offload 2 more channels (to total all 4 atmos speakers) from the 4400 if I am able.

If this was addressed somewhere in the past, I really missed it.

Thanks!
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post #57557 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 10:23 AM
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So all Walt Disney discs and streaming has only 1 L&R overhead/Atmos channel?
Or more like "blink or you'll miss it" unless you listen for it beyond 7.1.2. At least for the streaming Atmos versions of the first two Star Wars trilogies. To be fair, I've mostly been focusing on Netflix and Apple+ content lately so I'm not up on the last couple of months of Disney family releases. I've got Disney+ so I might take a look at some of the most recent Marvel films or something from Disney proper over the weekend.

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post #57558 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 10:40 AM
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I have to disagree to some extent. Star Wars has short front/back overhead object pans, but they're used when appropriate (e.g. Star Destroyer chase). Having speakers "active" all the time when they're not really doing anything doesn't mean much (i.e. Watching channel meters to tell me if something is used enough isn't my style). Cinema Atmos has two overheads active with the bed channels all the time. That doesn't mean they're doing anything useful.

Frankly, I think people ought to be happy Disney actually uses objects in Star Wars instead of a locked channel mix. It's a real improvement with them not totally obliterating the bass and dynamics for a change as well.
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post #57559 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 11:07 AM
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...These days my theatre is also more or less "done", aside from occasionally fiddling with target curves , and I'm sometimes commenting but more enjoying content. Lately, on the movie side, I've been doing mostly Nextflix, Amazon Video, Apple+, and Disney+ streaming with Atmos content aside from checking out the new release. I was going to buy Ford vs. Ferrari but the ATV's Apple+ beat me to the bunch with UHD and an Atmos track. My next UHD shiny disc purchase may wind up being 1917, but it won't be anything from Star Wars given that all the films are on or will be on Disney+. And like you, our theatre going is way down except for art films or an occasional kid movie
I have always, and still continue to purchase every shiny disk with TrueHD Atmos I'm interested in seeing, including Disney/Marvel/Star Wars (even though we also subscribe to D+), mainly for the whole lossy vs. lossless argument, but even more so since another compelling reason recently came to light here; when you stream the lossy, DD+ Atmos track, the objects are never completely "unfolded" from the bed layer

That said, I have the shiny, Ford vs. Ferrari UHD Blu on pre-order

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post #57560 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 11:07 AM
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Certain movies really use Atmos well, why others barely have any sound at all.
Will be interesting when Atmos becomes more common if the audio will be put to more use?
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post #57561 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 12:17 PM
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I just watched the new Midway movie. The storytelling could have been better, but the sound was definitely above average in Atmos, comparable to Red Tails in Auro-3D, I think. Plane footage was mostly very good as well.
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post #57562 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Just to elaborate a little on what the others have said, most AVRs do not allow adjacent pairs to be used for the overhead layout so TF + TM isn't a permitted combination. However FH (Front Height) and TM is, and that may suit you. If you look at the diagram, you will see that there is considerable 'overlap' between the designated speaker sets, so clearly Dolby did not feel that the speaker placement has to be all that precise anyway. As ever, use common sense and judgement along with the practical room limitations which affect almost all of us and remember that you are trying to create a 'dome' of sound as best you can. I am confident that you will find that "some Atmos beats no Atmos at all".
wow, this is a big info that i didn't know. I never thought that the AVR would not permit TF+TM. Thanks for this. Now I need to do some research if FH+TM is better than TF+TR.

By the way, is FH still part of atmos? I might be able to make one of my in-ceiling speakers FH since it can be partially angled towards the listener. (klipsch CDT-5650-c). Will this work or do I need a different type of speaker for FH? (something like the KEF Q50a or SVS elevation)


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post #57563 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 02:00 PM
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wow, this is a big info that i didn't know. I never thought that the AVR would not permit TF+TM. Thanks for this. Now I need to do some research if FH+TM is better than TF+TR.

By the way, is FH still part of atmos? I might be able to make one of my in-ceiling speakers FH since it can be partially angled towards the listener. (klipsch CDT-5650-c). Will this work or do I need a different type of speaker for FH? (something like the KEF Q50a or SVS elevation)
Atmos allows for five possible height speaker locations (per pair): Front Height, Top Front, Top Middle, Top Rear, and Rear Height. Most A/V receivers only allow you to use two of these at a time, and not in adjacent positions. A few higher-end models can accommodate three pairs, and expensive boutique processors like Trinnov may go further.
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post #57564 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 02:11 PM
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wow, this is a big info that i didn't know. I never thought that the AVR would not permit TF+TM. Thanks for this. Now I need to do some research if FH+TM is better than TF+TR.

By the way, is FH still part of atmos? I might be able to make one of my in-ceiling speakers FH since it can be partially angled towards the listener. (klipsch CDT-5650-c). Will this work or do I need a different type of speaker for FH? (something like the KEF Q50a or SVS elevation)
As I mentioned above, selecting rear height instead of top middle will have no appreciable effect on the content of the speaker in regards to if you COULD select Top Middle as Atmos will just move the rear material forward with top middle and front height or backward to Top Rear (to contain both basically). Thus, you can just select Top Front and Top Rear and it will work fine in the Top Middle location. You could select Front Height and Top Middle if you prefer, but I think I'd stick with the top designation in the front unless you're going to use Auro-3D, in which case I'd set both to "height".
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post #57565 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 03:23 PM
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This is what I use for matrixed extra speakers (mixer adds the two channels together to create a new channel with both combined into one; in phase material is up to 3db louder and out of phase may cancel altogether if it's correlated between the two sets of channels. Material present in just one channel will play as normal. Thus, you can create a matrixed channel in-between two discrete channels, but in your case you just want one speaker to play both channels. It will be slightly louder for centered rear material than non-centered an will still array with the sides with correlated material. In other words, sounds will pan from side to rear normally.)

https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-F...0063017&sr=8-3

Plug left/right rear surround pre-outs into a set of input jacks and the output jacks will contain both channels, which then go to a power amp. The input dials control how much of each channel. For a centered rear speaker, these would be even (e.g. Both set to 12 o'clock). They also effect the output level so you will want to check levels and adjust to match when you're done, either at the dials or the AVR, although like a sub gain control, the mixer controls can go higher or lower than the AVR can change so you might have to turn them up or down if you go too far.
Hi, when i get the Rolls mixer, connect the SBL and SBR pre-out to the mixer, and dial the volume up to say 10-11 o'clock on the mixer, the signal will be mixed from both channels into again L and R output, correct ?
So for one speaker I can connect L or R mixer out to the external amp and run one speaker and it will produce both channel signals ?

Isn't using a Y splitter one the SBR and SBL pre-out and running this to the external amp not the same ?

Thanks
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post #57566 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 04:21 PM
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Hi, when i get the Rolls mixer, connect the SBL and SBR pre-out to the mixer, and dial the volume up to say 10-11 o'clock on the mixer, the signal will be mixed from both channels into again L and R output, correct ?
So for one speaker I can connect L or R mixer out to the external amp and run one speaker and it will produce both channel signals ?
Yes, but since you only want one output, you will want SBL into one input and SBR into another separate input (not as "stereo" into one input). Make sure they're both in the same relative channel as well (e.g. Both in the "R" or both in the "L").

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Isn't using a Y splitter one the SBR and SBL pre-out and running this to the external amp not the same ?
Y Splitters should only be used to split an RCA output into two channels, not combine two into one, which carries some risk of backfeeding current into the pre-out outputs themselves (not worth risking blowing up a multi-kilobuck AVR, IMO). You can make a cable with a diode to prevent any DC leaking back into it, but it's easier just to buy the mixer. The active mixer also makes sure you have enough power (passive sometimes have very poor levels).

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post #57567 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 04:26 PM
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wow, this is a big info that i didn't know. I never thought that the AVR would not permit TF+TM. Thanks for this. Now I need to do some research if FH+TM is better than TF+TR.

By the way, is FH still part of atmos? I might be able to make one of my in-ceiling speakers FH since it can be partially angled towards the listener. (klipsch CDT-5650-c). Will this work or do I need a different type of speaker for FH? (something like the KEF Q50a or SVS elevation)

FH + TM will work for you. Also try TF +TR even if the speakers designated as TR are mounted more in a TM physical location. In my old 'Hobbit Theater' which was as tiny as the name suggests (10.5 ft x 10.5 ft) for various reasons I could not mount my rearmost ceiling speakers in an 'approved' rear location so I was basically running a TF + TM *physical* designation, but in the AVR I set them to TF + TR and this worked pretty well for me. I tried FH + TM and I didn't find that as satisfactory, but it was years ago now and I can't recall exactly why not. I posted extensively about it in this thread at the time, but the search tool being what it is, you'll likely never find the posts even if you tried. Once your speakers' physical locations have been settled, try the different designations in the AVR and see which gives you the best effect. Use content you know well which has good overhead effects (something maybe like Mad Max Fury Road for example).
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post #57568 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 05:19 PM
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FH + TM will work for you. Also try TF +TR even if the speakers designated as TR are mounted more in a TM physical location. In my old 'Hobbit Theater' which was as tiny as the name suggests (10.5 ft x 10.5 ft) for various reasons I could not mount my rearmost ceiling speakers in an 'approved' rear location so I was basically running a TF + TM *physical* designation, but in the AVR I set them to TF + TR and this worked pretty well for me. I tried FH + TM and I didn't find that as satisfactory, but it was years ago now and I can't recall exactly why not. I posted extensively about it in this thread at the time, but the search tool being what it is, you'll likely never find the posts even if you tried. Once your speakers' physical locations have been settled, try the different designations in the AVR and see which gives you the best effect. Use content you know well which has good overhead effects (something maybe like Mad Max Fury Road for example).
Thanks. your posts are really informative.

Is there a way in the Denon setup page where i can turn off LCR and just listen to the atmos speakers and surround?
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post #57569 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 07:05 PM
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Is there a way in the Denon setup page where i can turn off LCR and just listen to the atmos speakers and surround?

Go the Amp Assign section and turn off the amps to the speakers you don't want to hear. Or pull the speaker wire out.
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post #57570 of 58884 Old 02-05-2020, 11:14 PM
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Yes, but since you only want one output, you will want SBL into one input and SBR into another separate input (not as "stereo" into one input). Make sure they're both in the same relative channel as well (e.g. Both in the "R" or both in the "L").

Y Splitters should only be used to split an RCA output into two channels, not combine two into one, which carries some risk of backfeeding current into the pre-out outputs themselves (not worth risking blowing up a multi-kilobuck AVR, IMO). You can make a cable with a diode to prevent any DC leaking back into it, but it's easier just to buy the mixer. The active mixer also makes sure you have enough power (passive sometimes have very poor levels).
Sorry Magnum, i am lost here. Do you mean with:

"you will want SBL into one input and SBR into another separate input"
that i put SBL into one input channel and SBR into one ?

"Make sure they're both in the same relative channel as well"
So how do i get both Left and Right into one input channel, with a Y splitter ?

Could you show me with a pic what you mean ?

Sorry...…….
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