The Official Onkyo TX-NR535/636/737/838 Thread. - Page 55 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1621 of 1733 Old 12-27-2016, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jcalabria View Post
Look at the attached PDF diagram... I adapted this to your 646 from some of my own connection diagrams. You may have more equipment connected, but I showed just the basics with BDP and STB sources with parallel analog/digital input connections along with the headphone transmitter attached to Zone 2 on the output side of the AVR.

As far as adding the additional zone to a harmony remote... the Harmony database includes the Zone 2 of your 646 as a discrete device that needs to be added in addition to the main 646 device. When added as a separate device, Harmony treats it like a unique device and can power it up/down and switch inputs just like any other device. To add Zone 2 as a new device, in the 7.7 software just go to add device and enter TX-NR646... it will show you a selection of Room 1 (Main Zone) and Room 2 (Zone 2) and you can check and add just the Room 2 device. In the MyHarmony software, add the new device directly by entering "Onkyo" as the vendor and "TX-NR646 (Zone 2)" as the model. Once the Zone 2 device has been added, you can add the device to any activity where you want to use the headphones. Once the device is manually added to the activity, rerun the setup for the activity and it will ask you what input the Zone 2 device should be on... just set it to the same input that the main 646 device uses for that activity.
So I need to run stero cables from each input I want to listed to in the analog Domain? Sorry I am so thick. I have the Harmony part down.

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post #1622 of 1733 Old 12-27-2016, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by labman1 View Post
So I need to run stero cables from each input I want to listed to in the analog Domain? Sorry I am so thick. I have the Harmony part down.

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I got It! Duh. Will go get 2 sets of cables tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help and have a great New Years!!

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post #1623 of 1733 Old 12-27-2016, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by labman1 View Post
So I need to run stero cables from each input I want to listed to in the analog Domain? Sorry I am so thick. I have the Harmony part down.

Sent from my SM-T817T using Tapatalk
Say I just looked at the Direct TV box and there are no analog connections just digital coax and hdmi. Crap. What are the Options? Is there a digital to analog converter or another option?
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I got It! Duh. Will go get 2 sets of cables tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help and have a great New Years!!

Sent from my SM-T817T using Tapatalk

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post #1624 of 1733 Old 12-27-2016, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by labman1 View Post
Say I just looked at the Direct TV box and there are no analog connections just digital coax and hdmi. Crap. What are the Options? Is there a digital to analog converter or another option?
What DTV receiver model do you have? All of the models shown online have analog outputs, although the Genie models do require a breakout adapter that would plug into the multipin "AV" jack.

If you truly do not have analog outputs, something like THIS would do the trick, BUT... the box would need to be configured to output 2.0 (stereo) PCM on that coax port, which will probably apply to your HDMI output as well. I'm not familiar with DirecTV hardware or its configuration, so I can't say for sure how that would play out.

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post #1625 of 1733 Old 12-27-2016, 10:55 PM
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Tricking a 535 into outputting 7 surround channels?

Is this possible?

I have a 535 that's been gathering dust and was hoping for a 7-channel unit for Chrimbo. Wife had a kerb (curb) jump out in front of her, wrecked the front suspension on her CLK350, no receiver for Darren this Chrimbo...

Anyway, the 535 does 5 channels plus it has Zone 2 pre-amp outputs. Is there any way of tricking the unit into giving 7 channels of surround? I'm thinking switch off the fronts and assign the five channels to surround left and right, rear left and right and the center, then using a power amp for the front two?
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post #1626 of 1733 Old 12-28-2016, 10:01 AM
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I bought a 636 a year ago and love the unit but now with Atmos and the other technologies coming out I have some questions I was hoping someone could answer.


I recently purchased American Sniper and the ever so beautiful blue light clicked on letting me know that Atmos was enabled. I do have the ELAC Debut 4 add on speakers to project to the sound towards the ceiling. I hit the movies button on my remote (I think that is it, at work and can't remember what it is called to cycle through the preset settings) and it showed different versions of Atmos and I am kind of confused. I noticed a bunch of different settings and would like to know which is best for watching Atmos movies.


Dolby Atmos/TrueHD then it says TV Logic below (what is the TV logic thing)
Dolby Atmos/TrueHD then it says Direct below (what is the Direct thing)
Dolby Atmos - nothing next to it or below


I believe this is the only Atmos settings it has so I am wondering what they are and which is the best.


Thanks!
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post #1627 of 1733 Old 01-12-2017, 04:30 PM
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Substitute Optical-OUT? 636

I'm looking for a solution to use my Sennheiser RS 195 headphones with an optical digital input.
Is there another (source)-OUT I could use to convert a digital signal (with some type of source converter) to a TOSlink?

I'm also trying to configure the phones to be able to listen to TV and still have audio to my speakers. I just need to listen at a different volume than other viewers. When I use the headphone analog jack I lose the speakers.

Thanks!
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post #1628 of 1733 Old 03-04-2017, 07:47 AM
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Hey everyone-

Experiencing some issues with my TX-NR535 and was hoping someone might be able to help or have experience with this-

Background:
Have had the 535 for a few years. Have always dealt with / been unable to resolve:
  • Sparkles in video output for Onkyo-produced screens (ex. basic text Spotify album/artist display). Video from HDMI inputs, however (blu ray, Apple TV, etc. does not have sparkles, so I assume this isn't caused by the HDMI cable going to the TV)?
  • Periodically refusing to connect to (wired) network. Unplugging and plugging back into power will resolve right away. Is this one of the issues covered by the special Loss of Network Connection Customer Care Program?

Last night, though, I replaced the Vizio E-Series TV I've had for a few years with a new LG OLED 55 B6P. I now have two more serious problems:


1)The AppleTV input still works fine, but for some reason my 'Cable' input (with a crappy Time Warner basic cable box connected to it) now has serious issues. When Onkyo switches to Cable, video is scrambled (some sparkles, tons of artifacts, etc.; unwatchable).

Any ideas? It seems like since the TV is the only factor that changed here, it would be related to the TV, but it's brand new, works perfectly with the Onkyo on the Apple TV input, works perfectly with its built-in apps, etc.

Unfortunately I'm a bit limited on the normal troubleshooting steps, as the HDMI cable between the Onkyo and the mounted LG is inside of a wall I will try replacing this if absolutely necessary, but is it possible that the Onkyo/TV cable is faulty if it's passing some of the Onkyo's inputs without issue? To me, this seems to point to the Onkyo failing (which would not be shocking), but for that to happen the day I replace the TV seems like a pretty big coincidence...

2) I cannot get ARC to work to return audio from LG's 4k-compatible apps back to the Onkyo. I've turned on SimpLink, set audio output to 'HDMI/Optical', turned on Onkyo's CEC function, but just not getting anything to happen. My understanding is that the Onkyo should automatically switch to the 'TV' input when the LG starts sending audio over ARC, but that doesn't happen, and I also get no audio when I manually select the 'TV' input. I have an optical cable in the wall to the TV, but like an idiot I didn't double-check the length and it's too short to reach the receiver by a few inches (!) so I'd prefer to get ARC working.

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks
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post #1629 of 1733 Old 03-05-2017, 11:37 AM
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Periodically refusing to connect to (wired) network. Unplugging and plugging back into power will resolve right away. Is this one of the issues covered by the special Loss of Network Connection Customer Care Program?
I've had this same problem for nearly a year now on my NR838. I posted on the Onkyo forums and they told me it would have to be sent in for service at my expense. I cannot reliably reproduce the issue, so I don't really want to put out the money for them to look at it and find nothing wrong. I just deal with it and unplug when I have to. Very frustrating. I've also got an issue where it will randomly think I'm calibrating the speakers without the mic plugged in. Onkyo quality isn't what it used to be.
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post #1630 of 1733 Old 03-06-2017, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by eab6287 View Post
2) I cannot get ARC to work to return audio from LG's 4k-compatible apps back to the Onkyo. I've turned on SimpLink, set audio output to 'HDMI/Optical', turned on Onkyo's CEC function, but just not getting anything to happen. My understanding is that the Onkyo should automatically switch to the 'TV' input when the LG starts sending audio over ARC, but that doesn't happen, and I also get no audio when I manually select the 'TV' input. I have an optical cable in the wall to the TV, but like an idiot I didn't double-check the length and it's too short to reach the receiver by a few inches (!) so I'd prefer to get ARC working.
I've got a B6 hooked up to a 636. I ended up hooking up my devices all to the B6 and only using the 636 as an amp via ARC. Hooking up through the receiver might work well if all of your devices are CEC compliant but I have at least one which is not (a TiVo) and having a mix of some things behind the receiver and some things plugged into the TV was not making ARC happy.

It mostly works OK as long as the 636 is off when the TV is off and I let the TV turn the amp on with the power sync - at this point the 636 turns on and switches to a "Dock" input which as far as I can tell is NOT available from the 636's remote control. When things get confused (if the 636 is on and on a different input, it frequently won't change to Dock), it sometimes works to use the Onkyo remote Android app which *does* have an input selection for Dock. Even then, it can still get fiddly - sometimes I need to turn CEC back on on the TV and then switch inputs to get it to wake the 636 up.

With respect to your other input issues, it's possible for a poor connection to be on one input - I have an old Samsung which has problems with a Roku 3 on one of its inputs but the others are OK.
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post #1631 of 1733 Old 03-20-2017, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bschellva View Post
I've had this same problem for nearly a year now on my NR838. I posted on the Onkyo forums and they told me it would have to be sent in for service at my expense. I cannot reliably reproduce the issue, so I don't really want to put out the money for them to look at it and find nothing wrong. I just deal with it and unplug when I have to. Very frustrating. I've also got an issue where it will randomly think I'm calibrating the speakers without the mic plugged in. Onkyo quality isn't what it used to be.
Same problem with my NR838 - a replacement for my malfunctioning NR717. Happens about once a week. Only solution I've found is to unplug/plug-in the unit. After the issues with the NR717, I thought I'd give them another chance. This will be my last Onkyo product.
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post #1632 of 1733 Old 03-20-2017, 09:36 PM
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Try switching from wired to wireless and back.
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post #1633 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 07:57 AM
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So I am finally able to bitstream with my xbox one. I use the "height" speaker connections on the receiver and ran the room eq and everything appears to be ready. I popped in Mad Max and I have no indication from the receiver that ATMOS is working. Is how do I know for sure that ATMOS is working on my 838?

Oh yeah, the Xbox is set up for "Bitstream" and "Bitstream Dolby" in the audio settings menu. I thought it was supposed to be selectable in the bluray menu of the Xbox but that is not the case.

Any and all help is appreciated.

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post #1634 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 11:11 AM
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I believe, that it should show a little red writing DolbyTrueHD, or something similar. On the 646, a blue LED turns on for Atmos and a separate one, for DTS-X.
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I believe, that it should show a little red writing DolbyTrueHD, or something similar. On the 646, a blue LED turns on for Atmos and a separate one, for DTS-X.
All the receiver shows is the Dolby logo and the letter "D" next to it. I was only able to make the blue light come on when I changed the input signal to do PCM but when I did that there was no sound.

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post #1636 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 11:31 AM
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I don't have that series receiver anymore, but looking at crutchfield.com, it shows a TrueHD logo there.
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I don't have that series receiver anymore, but looking at crutchfield.com, it shows a TrueHD logo there.
Let me see if I can get the TrueHD logo to show up

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post #1638 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 12:00 PM
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If it shows up, for sure you have Atmos on.
Also use the Listening Mode and select Dolby Atmos. I have selected for all of my sources the Direct, not the Las Valid.
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post #1639 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 04:32 PM
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If it shows up, for sure you have Atmos on.
Also use the Listening Mode and select Dolby Atmos. I have selected for all of my sources the Direct, not the Las Valid.
Under listening mode i dont get an ATMOS option and I still cannot get the TrueHD on the screen of the receiver.

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post #1640 of 1733 Old 04-01-2017, 06:06 PM
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Than probably the source is not Atmos.
The source has to be Atmos, to turn on and to have that option in the Listening mode.
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post #1641 of 1733 Old 04-03-2017, 01:45 PM
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Than probably the source is not Atmos.
The source has to be Atmos, to turn on and to have that option in the Listening mode.

I have tried 4 different movies and still nothing. The remote app on my phone tells me that it is Dolby 5.1 on the input side and Dolby 5.1.2 on the output side. But I am not going to trust the app I would prefer that the receiver confirm it.

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post #1642 of 1733 Old 04-03-2017, 02:01 PM
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You have in the setup selected, 5.1.2 right?
I have just installed some ceiling speakers(Polk Audio 80F/X-RT) for Atmos and I'm trying them out, with the 2015 Dolby Atmos demo disc, found here somewhere on this site and it works great on my 646.
The player, outputs in bitstream right, not PCM.
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You have in the setup selected, 5.1.2 right?
I have just installed some ceiling speakers(Polk Audio 80F/X-RT) for Atmos and I'm trying them out, with the 2015 Dolby Atmos demo disc, found here somewhere on this site and it works great on my 646.
The player, outputs in bitstream right, not PCM.

Where in the setup menu do I select 5.1.2? The Xbox One just got an update to bitstream and I have selected 'bitstream" and "dolby"

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post #1644 of 1733 Old 04-04-2017, 08:03 AM
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Speaker configuration.
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post #1645 of 1733 Old 04-05-2017, 08:18 PM
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Speaker configuration.
So it turns out that the last XboxOne update didn't give us the option to have the receiver decode the audio. So today I did the reboot and there it was the option to let the 838 decode the bitstream. To my extreme delight the "TRUE HD" light came on as soon as the movie started. Thank you tibimakai for all your help i really appreciate it.

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post #1646 of 1733 Old 04-05-2017, 09:17 PM
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You are welcome.
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post #1647 of 1733 Old 04-12-2017, 09:11 PM
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545 vs 636

Hi all,

In the market to upgrade my ancient onkyo sr507.

I'd like to know if theres any major differences between the 545 and 636 (Yes I know their older models). 545 is 'newer' than the 636.

Does anyone know if there are any major advantages of either unit over the other? Other than what I've stated below? Will the 636 have better components than the 545 as its a 'higher model'.


545 Pro's - 545 is newer and has 2 optical outputs


636 Pros' - has 160watts vs 120watts.
  • has an extra HDMI input (Front)
  • has an extra HDMI output

Thanks
Ash
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post #1648 of 1733 Old 04-17-2017, 06:05 AM
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I've just called my local Onkyo distributor (in Australia), he said there isn't any major differences between the 545 or 636...
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post #1649 of 1733 Old 04-23-2017, 05:51 AM
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Has anyone got any tips on splitting an Xbox hdr signal to a tv and a 636? Is it doable without an hdfury integral? Want to get hdr and lossless audio at the same time

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Last edited by geophilips; 04-23-2017 at 07:17 AM.
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post #1650 of 1733 Old 04-26-2017, 02:16 AM
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Well, seems that I am the odd man out as I have no major issues with my 737. But yesterday, 1 issue did come up.

I have run an HDMI cable from the 737, Sub Out connection, right next to the Main Out connection, for the TV in the bedroom. I get video on the bedroom TV but no audio. The Main out menu on the 737 is set to MAIN + SUB, bedroom TV speakers are set to on, mute is off. The TV volume indicator will move up to 100%, but still no audio.

I have looked in the detailed on line manual pages 54 to 60 regarding monitor out & main & sub connection, but nothing addresses audio. I have also looked in the troubleshooting section under audio, but no help there either.

Any suggestions?
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