The *** Official Marantz NR-1505/1605 *** Slimline Receiver Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 504 Old 10-28-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
Yes, the NR1605 can convert analog --> HDMI, however, the SR5008 features double the wattage, a full set of 7.2 pre-outs and 7.1 multi analog inputs as well as the better version of Audyssey MultEQ XT.
OK, then to turn that around... is there any advantage to the NR1605 vs. the SR5008, other than the WiFi capabilities of the NR1605 which are pretty irrelevant, and size, which I don't think is an issue in the specific application for which I'm considering it?
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post #62 of 504 Old 10-28-2014, 11:53 AM
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^^
Yup. HDMI 2.0 4k/60fps upscaling and pass through, Smart Select buttons (similar to Quick Select on Denon models), ECO Mode (20% power savings), ISF Certification (Day/Night settings for each video source)
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post #63 of 504 Old 10-28-2014, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
Yup. HDMI 2.0 4k/60fps upscaling and pass through, Smart Select buttons (similar to Quick Select on Denon models), ECO Mode (20% power savings), ISF Certification (Day/Night settings for each video source)
Of course it isn't that easy

I dunno if the 4k upscaling is important or not in this application... current TV is only 1080P but don't know if plans are afoot to change that or not.

Will have to think on this, but thanks for breaking it down. It's hard now that Marantz has taken the 5008 off their web site, and I never did completely trust their "compare models" feature to begin with (e.g. the spec sheet for the 1605 seems to imply that it does NOT upscale analog to digital and output over HDMI whereas you said above that it did, and I would have actually been surprised did it not.)
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post #64 of 504 Old 10-28-2014, 12:17 PM
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NR1605 Owner's manual (p. 235).

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post #65 of 504 Old 10-28-2014, 12:23 PM
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I wasn't doubting your response, I figured you wouldn't have said anything if it didn't do it.

Actually now that I look at it again, it is the 1504 not the 1605 that is listed as not upscaling to HDMI (I was using the "compare models" tool on Marantz's web site, and apparently my eyes crossed at some point.) I don't think the 1504 even has a composite input now that I took another look. So that one may be off the list.

thanks again...
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post #66 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 05:33 AM
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Question Good enough?

Hi,

I'm looking for a new AVR and speakers, since I got a simple surround set atm i need to replace everything and i want some more serious stuff.
I mostly use the current set for 30% tv, 20% movies, 30% series and 20% music.

My eye caught the NR1605 cause of it small profile, since I only got room for 44(w), 46(d) and 12(h) cm (3cm head room cause of the lid).
With that i searched for a new set of speakers as well, Q Acoustics Q 7000i.
Since i can't post the url, info about the fronts: sensitivity 85dB, 6 ohm, 95Hz-20KHz
I don't have that much room for big speakers and these look elegant and seem to sound really good what I read from the reviews.

I'm not able to post any pictures, so here is an explanation of the environment:
The speakers are gonna be placed in a room with 6m depth, 8m width and a height of 2.5m.
The distance between the two fronts and backs is gonna be around 3.5m, with the tv off course in the middle
The distance between the front and the back speakers is around 5.5m, since the speakers will be placed around 25cm from the walls.
The sitting position is off course in front of the tv, with a distance to the front speakers of around 4m, back around 2.5m.

Now the big question, is the Marantz a good match with those speakers in my environment?

Thnx in advance!
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post #67 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 05:37 AM
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^^
Sure, as long as you don't need reference movie volume.
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post #68 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
^^
Sure, as long as you don't need reference movie volume.
Not wanna get deaf that soon

I read somewhere the NR1605 uses HDMI 2.0 but that it doesn't support the future HDCP 2.2 standard, will a firmware be able to fix that?
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post #69 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 05:56 AM
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^^
No, it's a hardware chip limitation and the chip isn't due to be released until early 2015, however, there should be work arounds available (eg. dual HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 BDP).
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post #70 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theetjuh View Post
Hi,

I'm looking for a new AVR and speakers, since I got a simple surround set atm i need to replace everything and i want some more serious stuff.
I mostly use the current set for 30% tv, 20% movies, 30% series and 20% music.

My eye caught the NR1605 cause of it small profile, since I only got room for 44(w), 46(d) and 12(h) cm (3cm head room cause of the lid).
With that i searched for a new set of speakers as well, Q Acoustics Q 7000i.
Since i can't post the url, info about the fronts: sensitivity 85dB, 6 ohm, 95Hz-20KHz
I don't have that much room for big speakers and these look elegant and seem to sound really good what I read from the reviews.

I'm not able to post any pictures, so here is an explanation of the environment:
The speakers are gonna be placed in a room with 6m depth, 8m width and a height of 2.5m.
The distance between the two fronts and backs is gonna be around 3.5m, with the tv off course in the middle
The distance between the front and the back speakers is around 5.5m, since the speakers will be placed around 25cm from the walls.
The sitting position is off course in front of the tv, with a distance to the front speakers of around 4m, back around 2.5m.

Now the big question, is the Marantz a good match with those speakers in my environment?

Thnx in advance!
Hi Theetjuh,

Welcome to AVS!

Thanks for posting some info of your room and speakers you intend on using for the setup.

I had the following web app to determine the maximum SPL the system will reproduce based on some of the numbers you've given: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

I'm getting a maximum SPL of about 95dB, based on a pair of Q Acoustics Q 7000i, 2' to 4' from the wall and that you'll be sitting about 13.2' (4m) away from them. Be sure to set your volume limit on the NR-1605 to -10dB as that is what it'll realistically can do. As jdsmoothie says, don't plan on playing to reference movie volume.

If you're wanting really loud volumes, you'll have to go for more sensitive speakers.

Be sure you get a pair of decent subs. Your floor area is about 516 sq. ft. and the total room volume is a little over 4,200 cu. ft. That's alot of space those low frequencies need to fill.

Note that the Q Acoustics Q 7000i will require a high cross over somewhere in 100Hz to 120Hz range - depending on where the F3 is in your room. This may cause localization issues (where you'll hear both the sub and the satellite at certain frequencies) which may / may not be an issue for you.
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post #71 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Hi Theetjuh,

Welcome to AVS!

Thanks for posting some info of your room and speakers you intend on using for the setup.

I had the following web app to determine the maximum SPL the system will reproduce based on some of the numbers you've given:

I'm getting a maximum SPL of about 95dB, based on a pair of Q Acoustics Q 7000i, 2' to 4' from the wall and that you'll be sitting about 13.2' (4m) away from them. Be sure to set your volume limit on the NR-1605 to -10dB as that is what it'll realistically can do. As jdsmoothie says, don't plan on playing to reference movie volume.

If you're wanting really loud volumes, you'll have to go for more sensitive speakers.
Thnx for that calculation, seems to be more then enough for normal usage then

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Be sure you get a pair of decent subs. Your floor area is about 516 sq. ft. and the total room volume is a little over 4,200 cu. ft. That's alot of space those low frequencies need to fill.

Note that the Q Acoustics Q 7000i will require a high cross over somewhere in 100Hz to 120Hz range - depending on where the F3 is in your room. This may cause localization issues (where you'll hear both the sub and the satellite at certain frequencies) which may / may not be an issue for you.
Is there any way to calculate something about the sub?

In the package there is the 7070Si 8 inch sub with an 150W class D amplifier and has a frequency of 35 to 200Hz, there also seems to be some sort of "Internal Firing-design" where the placement of the sub shouldn't be that important.
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post #72 of 504 Old 11-02-2014, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theetjuh View Post
...

Is there any way to calculate something about the sub?
The sub manufacturer will be the best source to determine if their sub has been designed for your room volume. I'd send an email to Q Acoustics and put the question to them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Theetjuh View Post
...In the package there is the 7070Si 8 inch sub with an 150W class D amplifier and has a frequency of 35 to 200Hz, there also seems to be some sort of "Internal Firing-design" where the placement of the sub shouldn't be that important.
Based on the details of the sub from Q Acoustics, I have some doubts that a single 8" sub would be able to fill the volume of your room.

Note that sub placement in the room, the Main Listening Position (MLP), room dimensions are important parameters in the bass response within the room. The goal is to get a smooth bass from 15Hz up to 300Hz and a quick decay to minimize 'ringing'.

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post #73 of 504 Old 11-08-2014, 02:39 AM
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NR-1605 and wireless speakers

Hello everybody

I am planning to purchase a NR-1605 + UD5007 or 7007

They will be installed in the living room with only 2 main speakers (i keep it open for 5.1 later), but I want the music to be also playable
- in another room (rest/reading room, mostly used during the day) with an excellent sound quality : let's call it room A
-in 1-2 other rooms on another floor, (rooms B)

Now my questions are
- will I be able to connect directly wifi speakers in rooms A or B? Or for sonos System, is it still necessary to connect a SONOS CONNECT to the NR + play 1,3 or 5 ?
- For who know the SONOS products, which config would you recommend? Play 5 in room, play 1 in room B ?
- are there better solution than SONOS in my context ?

Thanks in advance for any help!
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post #74 of 504 Old 11-08-2014, 03:17 AM
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I forgot to say that there is an open door between living room and room A, so that there must be no time lag in the music diffusion (i don't if that's an issue with wifi speakers)
Thanks in advance!
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post #75 of 504 Old 11-08-2014, 05:54 AM
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^^
You will need to connect the wireless amp to the Zone 2 pre-outs noting that only analog sources and network sources will pass independently to Zone 2 unless All Zone Stereo mode is selected to play the same HDMI 2.0 source in the main zone as well.

Also note Denon has a new line of wireless "powered" speakers called HEOS that audio can stream to from a phone or from the AVR with a HEOS Link.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 11-09-2014 at 10:52 AM.
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post #76 of 504 Old 11-08-2014, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaime203 View Post
Hello everybody

I am planning to purchase a NR-1605 + UD5007 or 7007

They will be installed in the living room with only 2 main speakers (i keep it open for 5.1 later), but I want the music to be also playable
- in another room (rest/reading room, mostly used during the day) with an excellent sound quality : let's call it room A
-in 1-2 other rooms on another floor, (rooms B)

Now my questions are
- will I be able to connect directly wifi speakers in rooms A or B? Or for sonos System, is it still necessary to connect a SONOS CONNECT to the NR + play 1,3 or 5 ?
- For who know the SONOS products, which config would you recommend? Play 5 in room, play 1 in room B ?
- are there better solution than SONOS in my context ?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Hi Jaime203,
Welcome to AVS!

With your current setup, the NR-1605 is in the living room powering a set of stereo speakers - this referred to as the main zone.

At the back panel there is a set of pre-outs that replicate the stereo signal. You can connect a wireless transmission device to your wireless powered speakers to room B. So what ever is playing in the main zone (living room) will be repeated to room B.

There is also a set of pre-outs called Zone 2. You can connect anothe wireless transmission device from here to your wireless powered speakers in room A. On the NR-1605 owner's manual, there are instructions on how to select a device that will play independently to Zone 2. You can also play the same soundtrack in the main zone to Zone 2.

If you want more than 2 zones, you'll have to step-up to the higher end models.

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post #77 of 504 Old 11-09-2014, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Hi Jaime203,
Welcome to AVS!

With your current setup, the NR-1605 is in the living room powering a set of stereo speakers - this referred to as the main zone.

At the back panel there is a set of pre-outs that replicate the stereo signal. You can connect a wireless transmission device to your wireless powered speakers to room B. So what ever is playing in the main zone (living room) will be repeated to room B.

There is also a set of pre-outs called Zone 2. You can connect anothe wireless transmission device from here to your wireless powered speakers in room A. On the NR-1605 owner's manual, there are instructions on how to select a device that will play independently to Zone 2. You can also play the same soundtrack in the main zone to Zone 2.

If you want more than 2 zones, you'll have to step-up to the higher end models.

Thanks for your reply


Steveting, thanks for answering


Sorry for the beginner questions, but does it mean that the NR-1605 can play any source of music connected to the wifi network, but is not diffusing the music output directly on the same network, so that the output signal needs a special transmission device to be returned to the wifi network ? it is a "collect-only" wifi AV ampli ?


I understand you are talking about two of wireless transmission devices", actually one for each of the wireless speakers to be connected, in room A and B.
In terms of hardware, can you give me an example of what would be such a device, e.g. in the SONOS or DENON wireless system ?


One more "beginner question": how are those wireless speakers powered ?
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post #78 of 504 Old 11-09-2014, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaime203 View Post
...
Sorry for the beginner questions, but does it mean that the NR-1605 can play any source of music connected to the wifi network, but is not diffusing the music output directly on the same network, so that the output signal needs a special transmission device to be returned to the wifi network ? it is a "collect-only" wifi AV ampli ?
Not sure by what you mean with the wording of "collect-only wifi AV ampli ?" as the NR-1605 is a receiver. Once you connect the NR-1605 to your router (hardwire is recommended), with the right app on your phone/tablet, you can access and stream music to the receiver. I.e. Spotify, iTunes, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaime203 View Post
...I understand you are talking about two of wireless transmission devices", actually one for each of the wireless speakers to be connected, in room A and B.
In terms of hardware, can you give me an example of what would be such a device, e.g. in the SONOS or DENON wireless system ?
You might be interested in trying this device as the feedback has generally been okay: http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-NY-GS32.../ref=pd_cp_e_0

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaime203 View Post
...One more "beginner question": how are those wireless speakers powered ?
Most wireless speakers have a built in amplifier that you just plug into the wall. This provides power to the speaker. It will also have analogue RCA inputs that can be used with the above mentioned wireless transmitter. Some manufacturers of wireless speakers have built-in blue-tooth / Airplay / proprietary signalling (i.e. Sonos) that allows direct setup with the right device. These proprietary systems makes it easy to setup, but locks you into their system and becomes costly to expand beyond stereo setup.

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post #79 of 504 Old 11-10-2014, 06:56 AM
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Hi eveyone,
I'm new to this forum, but I have read many threads and did not find answers to my question so maybe any one from you can help. I tries to contact Marantz helpdesk but I did not receive any meaningful information.
Here are the subjects I try to find:
1. NR1605 does not indicate HDAM modules comparing to SR series. Is that because it is not audible with low volume so not needed for NR series as it has less power comparing to SR? Or just because it is a lower model?
2. Can you provide the DAC chip used in NR1605, SR5009 and SR6009? How they compare to UD5007 that uses PCM1781?
Is it reasonable to use analog connection from UD5007 and use a Direct mode in the receiver to get better quality that digital connection and use the receiver’s DAC?
3. Does any receiver uses PCM1795 (specified for UD7007) or a better DAC chip?
4. Please confirm if analog connection is used the receiver always convers it to digital first and then process (Audyssey, etc) and finally converts back to analog – in all cases except Direct mode?
What ADC chips are used in NR1605, SR5009 and SR6009?

Maybe some of you have access to the service manuals and can provide information abount DAC and DAC used in Marantz receivers?

Thanks
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post #80 of 504 Old 11-10-2014, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregAudio View Post
Hi eveyone,
I'm new to this forum, but I have read many threads and did not find answers to my question so maybe any one from you can help. I tries to contact Marantz helpdesk but I did not receive any meaningful information.
Here are the subjects I try to find:
1. NR1605 does not indicate HDAM modules comparing to SR series. Is that because it is not audible with low volume so not needed for NR series as it has less power comparing to SR? Or just because it is a lower model?
2. Can you provide the DAC chip used in NR1605, SR5009 and SR6009? How they compare to UD5007 that uses PCM1781?
Is it reasonable to use analog connection from UD5007 and use a Direct mode in the receiver to get better quality that digital connection and use the receiver’s DAC?
3. Does any receiver uses PCM1795 (specified for UD7007) or a better DAC chip?
4. Please confirm if analog connection is used the receiver always convers it to digital first and then process (Audyssey, etc) and finally converts back to analog – in all cases except Direct mode?
What ADC chips are used in NR1605, SR5009 and SR6009?

Maybe some of you have access to the service manuals and can provide information abount DAC and DAC used in Marantz receivers?

Thanks
Hi GregAudio,

Welcome to AVS!

Will try and answer some of your questions.

1. From 2014 onward, the NR-1605 is now the entry model for Marantz receivers. HDAM is a feature that is available for step-up models.

2. Will let jdsmoothie answer the question of which DAC is being used for the NR-1605, SR5009 and SR6009 and how they compare to UD5007. I believe the UD5007 would be better in that the THD+N would be lower.

You can try the analogue out from the UD5007 and compare that to the HDMI connection on the receiver to see which one you prefer. It will vary depending on your setup including speakers and room.

Edit: Found the following link for the DAC used in the SR6006. Analog Devices SP21487 / 400mHz here: http://www.digitaltrends.com/receive...sr6006-review/, unless jdsmoothie says otherwise, the Analogue Devices are still in use with current model.

3. Yamaha and Pioneer using the Sabre DAC chips which are supposed to be really good. Enough so that the manufacturers advertise it as a feature.

4. I don't think so, but jdsmoothie will have the last word on this.

The way you're asking these questions kind of reminds me of my early exploration into the audio/video world. Used to read a lot of magazines and reviews about how good the electronics of a device is and how much better it sounds, etc. After hanging around AVS and being 'educated' on the audio signal chain, it's been eye opening and humbling to find out that somethings that the reviews and magazines state are simply not true. The following is the audio signal chain.

(i) Source (i.e. CD/vinyl/computer file) ---> (ii) device player (i.e. CD player/turn table/media player) ---> (iii) pre/pro ---> (iv) amp ---> (v) speaker ---> (vi) room interaction ---> (vii) listener's ears

The room has the biggest impact to sound quality. Next are the transducer/speakers/noise makers.

This valuable lesson will end up saving me costs down the road where money can be put to things that will really make an improvement in sound quality.

Before paying for expensive components/gear, best to poke around AVS and ask knowledgeable members on what they've learned.

Experience is good, but better to learn the mistakes from others so you don't end up repeating it.

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Last edited by steveting99; 11-12-2014 at 12:55 AM. Reason: link to DAC for SR6006
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post #81 of 504 Old 11-14-2014, 04:03 AM
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Thanks steveting99,

1. I just wanted to know if using the mid-range speakers (I consider Boston Acoustics A360 or M340 -they have good price recently) I will be able to hear the difference with and without HDAM
I assume that HDAM is Marantz proprietary solution and is not available in Denon models.
2. The reason I try to find the DAC chips used in the receivers is to find out if they can be used instead of DAC in the blue-ray player. To used even simple adjustments like bass and treble the signal must be in a digital form as this is implemented in DSP chip, not analog. So to avoid the triple conversion the digital connection must be used. Otherwise, when the analog input is used, one has to choose Direct option that does not use DSP chip. In other case the signal (already converted to analog in the player) is converted to digital, then processed by DSP and finally again converted to analog.
When Direct mode is used only volume control is available. This is what I learnt when comparing to the analog receivers.
Anyway, when I want to use bass/treble adjustments or Audyssey I need to digital connection. And DAC in the receiver should not be worse than the one in the player.
And that is why I wanted to compare the specs of DAC chips in the receivers and in the players.
BTW, the chip listed in the link you provided is responsible for video signal processing – this is not DAC.
3. Considering the above I still did not make the final decision. The other thing is if I can hear the difference
4. Considering what you have written and my doubts related to hearing the difference in DAC and/or HDAM modules I considering NR1605 (with a digital connected player) with better speakers and some room acoustic improvements.
I do not need very loud sound so 50W seems enough for me. My current analog receiver has 40W per channel and this is ok for me.

For sure I plan to take few CDs and hear the combination of 1605 and BA-A360 and BA-M340 in the shop. Especially when M340 are 50% discounted and now comparable in price with A series.

Greg
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post #82 of 504 Old 11-15-2014, 02:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GregAudio View Post
...

1. I just wanted to know if using the mid-range speakers (I consider Boston Acoustics A360 or M340 -they have good price recently) I will be able to hear the difference with and without HDAM
I assume that HDAM is Marantz proprietary solution and is not available in Denon models.
...

For sure I plan to take few CDs and hear the combination of 1605 and BA-A360 and BA-M340 in the shop. Especially when M340 are 50% discounted and now comparable in price with A series.

Greg
Yes, HDAM is only available on Marantz receivers.

Choosing speakers are a very personal choice, so best to listen to them and pick one that's pleasing to your ears.

Getting a discount is great, but if you don't like the sound of the noise makers - what's the point? You'll just end up with buyer's remorse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregAudio View Post
... And DAC in the receiver should not be worse than the one in the player.
And that is why I wanted to compare the specs of DAC chips in the receivers and in the players.
BTW, the chip listed in the link you provided is responsible for video signal processing – this is not DAC.
3. Considering the above I still did not make the final decision. The other thing is if I can hear the difference
4. Considering what you have written and my doubts related to hearing the difference in DAC and/or HDAM modules I considering NR1605 (with a digital connected player) with better speakers and some room acoustic improvements.
I do not need very loud sound so 50W seems enough for me. My current analog receiver has 40W per channel and this is ok for me...
Apologies for giving the wrong link. I don't have the service manual for any of the Marantz receivers you mentioned, jdsmoothie might know the information you're looking for. PM him if you're still interested.

Consider this when it comes to Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) in the audio chain with orders of magnitude difference of about 10x.

Room interaction > speakers > amps > DAC (pre-pro/receiver/CD player, etc.)

Using logical reasoning, it is safe to assume there it's going to be very difficult to hear any audible differences at the DAC level - if everything down the line remains the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregAudio View Post
......2.The reason I try to find the DAC chips used in the receivers is to find out if they can be used instead of DAC in the blue-ray player. To used even simple adjustments like bass and treble the signal must be in a digital form as this is implemented in DSP chip, not analog. So to avoid the triple conversion the digital connection must be used. Otherwise, when the analog input is used, one has to choose Direct option that does not use DSP chip. In other case the signal (already converted to analog in the player) is converted to digital, then processed by DSP and finally again converted to analog.
When Direct mode is used only volume control is available. This is what I learnt when comparing to the analog receivers.
Anyway, when I want to use bass/treble adjustments or Audyssey I need to digital connection...
Straight decode at the source level will produce analogue output which is then fed to the pre-amp section of the Marantz receiver before amplification to the noise makers. Generally the only control available is the volume level going this route - most audiophiles like this route.

Digital output from the device to the receiver have more audio output options. This includes, bass management, room equalization, control of source selection via Airplay/DLNA, application of DSP, dealing with room modes, change of sound stage image height, width and depth, bass & treble adjustments, etc.

As you already know, having digital input to the receiver can also do PURE DIRECT mode which is the same as the straight decode at the source level.

You can both and compare which gives a more pleasing listening experience.

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Hello -

Like the Marantz 1605 for size and feature list for my use. Have listened to it with multiple speakers and sounds great. one question - why is it that sound seems to not come in until you are up to 50 on the volume setting. is this normal? Almost totally silent at 25.

Thanks!
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Depends on the source. Also, try enabling Dynamic Volume on at least "light" and that'll change dramatically.
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post #85 of 504 Old 12-18-2014, 11:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wardman1 View Post
Hello -

Like the Marantz 1605 for size and feature list for my use. Have listened to it with multiple speakers and sounds great. one question - why is it that sound seems to not come in until you are up to 50 on the volume setting. is this normal? Almost totally silent at 25.

Thanks!
Hi wardman1,

What you're experiencing is normal.

Our ears work on a logarithmic scale (called decibels or dB for short) and the main volume on the NR-1605 is set to a linear scale (0-99). You can change the main volume to the correct dB scale and this is recommended by most folks here at AVS since the reference is at 0dB. The Audyssey test tone are done at -10dB during setup and filters calculated with corrected values back up to 0dB. You'll find that 0dB is loud and most find listening at this level to be uncomfortable.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Hi wardman1,

What you're experiencing is normal.

Our ears work on a logarithmic scale (called decibels or dB for short) and the main volume on the NR-1605 is set to a linear scale (0-99). You can change the main volume to the correct dB scale and this is recommended by most folks here at AVS since the reference is at 0dB. The Audyssey test tone are done at -10dB during setup and filters calculated with corrected values back up to 0dB. You'll find that 0dB is loud and most find listening at this level to be uncomfortable.
Thanks! Looking to team with some HTD Level 2 or B&W 686's.
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post #87 of 504 Old 12-21-2014, 06:40 AM
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Hi,

Can someone point me in the directions on how to program the remote for this unit!!!! Only set up as two channel right now. Let me know if anyone has questions.

Thank you
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Hi,

Can someone point me in the directions on how to program the remote for this unit!!!! Only set up as two channel right now. Let me know if anyone has questions.

Thank you
What do you mean by "how to program?" I see no indications that the 1605's remote is a universal.
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post #89 of 504 Old 12-21-2014, 07:19 AM
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Hi,

Can someone point me in the directions on how to program the remote for this unit!!!! Only set up as two channel right now. Let me know if anyone has questions.

Thank you
The SR7009 is the only 2014 Marantz AVR that uses a programmable remote. You'll want to purchase a 3rd party universal remote (eg. Harmony 650) for controlling other devices with a single remote.
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Howdy!
I just replaced an aging NHT Receiver/Power5 with this Marantz NR1605.
It sounds fantastic and I can actually get more than one HDMI input to work, which is way better than dealing with the NHT daily.

Being new to Marantz, does anyone have an idea to get the IR FLASHER working on the back?
I've got the receiver in a spot that's not getting consistent remote control presses, so I bought a monoprice IR receiver to plug in. It doesn't work though, and there's not much mention of the flasher in the manual.

Thanks for any help!
-Jacob
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