The "Official" Yamaha RX-A1040, RX-A2040 and RX-A3040 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 99 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2941 of 3461 Old 01-20-2016, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keeper View Post
Really thinking about adding 4 ceiling speakers for Atmos. I have the 3040. For you guys that have done this is it a worth while upgrade from 7.1? Not too keen on cutting holes in my ceiling but a man got to do what he's got to do. Also, I have read that many use the dsp is that instead of Atmos and or DSU? Thanks
A dedicated Atmos for home theater thread is available here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...r-version.html. One can ask many who have implemented Atmos and ask for their opinions on the end result, including sound quality improvements.

The vast majority who have gone from a 7.1 system to an Atmos 7.1.4 are quite happy.

For those movie titles that do not have an Atmos soundtrack, there is Dolby Surround Up-Mixer (DSU) that would allow one to utilize the 7.1.4 speaker configuration using the standard 5.1/7.1 soundtracks. Yamaha also has it's own proprietary DSP modes that will utilize the front/rear presence speakers. Some prefer DSU to Yamaha's DSP.

There are some Atmos sampler demo tracks available to test out how good one's system is here: http://www.demo-world.eu/2d-demo-trailers-hd/
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post #2942 of 3461 Old 01-23-2016, 09:41 PM
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Hello Everyone,

OK. I'm full of questions

I found an old pair of bookshelf speakers that I forgot I had and I set them up as Front Presence speakers. So far, I put in Star Wars Episode 3 (from the Blu Ray set) for a few minutes of testing. Afterwards, the family watched Hotel Transylvania 2. For both movies, I noticed the same thing: When using STRAIGHT decode or when using Movie Theater Standard setting, the FP speakers are not utilized. I never heard any sound coming from the FP speakers. When I switched to another DSP mode like Spectacle or Sci Fi, the FP speakers started working. Is this normal? The user manual says that Movie Theater Standard aims to preserve the original audio tracks of the source, is that why the FP speakers aren't used?

This leads me to ask a couple of questions:

1) Are the FP speakers specifically used for the Yamaha DSP modes?
2) Are there any sound tracks that natively support 7.1 in straight decode mode? DTS-HD?

FWIW, I didn't really notice any difference with or without the FP speakers, but then again, maybe I wasn't listening closely enough. The FP Speakers are located about 5 feet above and 1 foot to the outside of the main speakers.

As an aside, I'm curious what mode you use for normal TV watching? I've been using Pro-Logic Decode mode but I'm evaluating Sports mode for normal TV watching.

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post #2943 of 3461 Old 01-23-2016, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
2) Are there any sound tracks that natively support 7.1 in straight decode mode? DTS-HD?
OK, I'm going to answer my own question. DTS-Master Audio and Dolby True HD both support 7.1 channels. My Star Wars Blu Ray disk is DTS HD Master Audio yet I didn't hear any audio out of the Front Presence speakers in Straight or Movie Theater Standard modes.

Hmmmmmmmm....

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post #2944 of 3461 Old 01-24-2016, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
OK, I'm going to answer my own question. DTS-Master Audio and Dolby True HD both support 7.1 channels. My Star Wars Blu Ray disk is DTS HD Master Audio yet I didn't hear any audio out of the Front Presence speakers in Straight or Movie Theater Standard modes.

Hmmmmmmmm....
That's because FP speakers are used only when Upmixer is chosen from surround formats. In straight you can have only Front left and Right, Center, Surround L/R, Surround Back L/R - if the source is 7.1. All other additional speakers are using some kind of upmixing - DSU, Yamaha's DSPs, except for the Dolby Atmos, which natively supports 7.1.4 speaker configuration.

You didn't mention what your receiver is, how many channels it can support at a time? It is a very important information as you can get a correct advice.

Regards,
Hristo

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post #2945 of 3461 Old 01-24-2016, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makrelov View Post
That's because FP speakers are used only when Upmixer is chosen from surround formats. In straight you can have only Front left and Right, Center, Surround L/R, Surround Back L/R - if the source is 7.1. All other additional speakers are using some kind of upmixing - DSU, Yamaha's DSPs, except for the Dolby Atmos, which natively supports 7.1.4 speaker configuration.

You didn't mention what your receiver is, how many channels it can support at a time? It is a very important information as you can get a correct advice.

Regards,
Hristo
I have an RX-A1040. So it is as I suspected: The front presence speakers are only for the DSP modes.

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post #2946 of 3461 Old 01-24-2016, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
I have an RX-A1040. So it is as I suspected: The front presence speakers are only for the DSP modes.
In your case - Yes. As your AVR does not support Atmos. And it is a 7 channel AVR, so it cannot output to whole 9 channels( 7 bed channels + 2 Presence) you installed. It will output either 7.1, or 5.1 + Front presence speakers - your Surround back speakers will be quiet in any DSP mode which involves Presence speakers.

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post #2947 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 01:42 PM
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HI Guys.
I have the 2040 currently connected to a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5 channel amp which is running the LCR and Side surrounds. The 2040 is pulling duty for the front presence and rear surrounds.
I'm running 7.1.2 but would really like to run 7.2.4 as I feel I'm missing quite a bit from not having the rear heights/presence speakers, especially during the Atmos demo's.
Since the Sunfire is running 5 channels, can I reconfigure the 2040 to run back presence (back height ceiling) speakers, by reassigning others that are not in use?
When I run YPAO, the on screen speaker configuration diagram shows wide height speakers, tests for them (nothings hooked up), before moving on to my side surrounds.
Does this mean I can hook up an additional two speakers to the 2040 as wide height, but reassign them as back presence?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean

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post #2948 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SeanCJ View Post
HI Guys.
I have the 2040 currently connected to a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5 channel amp which is running the LCR and Side surrounds. The 2040 is pulling duty for the front presence and rear surrounds.
I'm running 7.1.2 but would really like to run 7.2.4 as I feel I'm missing quite a bit from not having the rear heights/presence speakers, especially during the Atmos demo's.
Since the Sunfire is running 5 channels, can I reconfigure the 2040 to run back presence (back height ceiling) speakers, by reassigning others that are not in use?
When I run YPAO, the on screen speaker configuration diagram shows wide height speakers, tests for them (nothings hooked up), before moving on to my side surrounds.
Does this mean I can hook up an additional two speakers to the 2040 as wide height, but reassign them as back presence?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean
The 2040 can run 9 channels, and only 9.
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post #2949 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 06:18 PM
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YPAO with multiple subs

Yesterday, I finally had an opportunity to fully re-run YPAO since adding the 2nd sub to my setup. I'm trying to figure out whether I did this right.

I have a 3040; I am using one of the sub outputs on the 3040 to the in on my Anti-Mode 8033s II; out from the Anti-Mode is then split to the 2 subs.

I ran the Anti-Mode calibration, then I ran YPAO.

The YPAO result shows only 1 sub; I'm assuming this is because of the way it is wired up, so that YPAO is seeing and calibrating the 2 subs as 1.

Is this the proper setup/result?

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post #2950 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Will assist on the SMALL/LARGE speaker size education as others can chime in on the Dolby Dialogue Normalization setting.

Think of bass management ON/OFF instead of SMALL/LARGE for the speakers. Internally this is what the receiver is doing. When the receiver set out test tones through each speaker and the results fed back via the microphone at the Main Listening Position (MLP) it was trying to determine the capability of the speaker as well it's frequency range in the room.

If the receiver determines that the speaker can reproduce the full range signals at reference level and thus doesn't need bass management, it will set the speaker to LARGE. How Yamaha determines this is a bit of a mystery as the general consensus is that full range represents 20Hz to 20kHz and reference level is 85dB at the MLP (which is quite loud). Sometimes, the Yamaha receiver will set the speaker to LARGE, even if you know the speaker cannot reproduce the full range signals at reference level because the manufacturer's spec clearly say so. If your speakers are not able to do reproduce the full range signals (and you know this by checking the manufacturer's specs), then bass management is needed and thus the speaker should be set to SMALL. You'll have to manually do this in the settings of the receiver. What bass management does is split the low frequencies and pass them to a more capable sub-woofer, while the mids and highs are reproduced by the speaker. There are a number of benefits to this.

When implementing bass management (i.e. speakers set to SMALL), there is a crossover frequency (with a roll off in dB per octave, hence it's not a brick wall) where signals are split between the speaker and the sub. Generally the crossover frequency is in pairs (the exception being the center channel which is solo), i.e. FL/FR, SL/SR, SBL/SBR, etc.

On the sub plate amp, you'll want to set the crossover frequency to it's highest level or in bypass mode (i.e. LFE input) so that the receiver can implement bass management and set individual pairs (mono for the center channel) of speakers for the crossover frequency. The sub is designed to play back frequencies up to it's maximum frequency rating, so let it do that and let the receiver do the bass management.
I understand the concepts of what you're describing above. But...

...I've been playing around with the settings a bit. I even ran the YPAO measurements using multi-point measurements. Each time, the YPAO sets my front 3 speakers to Large and my surrounds to Small. It sets the Subwoofer to 120hz (probably because of my rear surround speakers).

As a test, I listened to some music in 2-channel mode. While listening, I switched the speaker configuration from Large to Small. Each time I change it, I hear a noticeable difference in the sound. With Large, I hear a fuller, richer sound. With Small, it sounds "thinner", for the lack of a better term. I feel like something's missing in Small mode. Perhaps some mid-range? Perhaps some bass? In Large mode, does the bass signal go to the speaker AND the subwoofer?

So far I think I prefer the settings on Large, even though my brain tells me that the above advice makes perfect sense. My speakers (Polk RT-10's) have a range from 30hz-25khz so I know that it can reasonably produce bass, so setting them to Large seems perfectly reasonable. My Center is a Polk Csi3. It can't reproduce the same low frequency as the RT-10's so setting the center to Small makes sense, despite the fact that the receiver automatically sets it to large.

I think more experimentation is necessary.

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post #2951 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Yesterday, I finally had an opportunity to fully re-run YPAO since adding the 2nd sub to my setup. I'm trying to figure out whether I did this right.

I have a 3040; I am using one of the sub outputs on the 3040 to the in on my Anti-Mode 8033s II; out from the Anti-Mode is then split to the 2 subs.

I ran the Anti-Mode calibration, then I ran YPAO.

The YPAO result shows only 1 sub; I'm assuming this is because of the way it is wired up, so that YPAO is seeing and calibrating the 2 subs as 1.

Is this the proper setup/result?
There's no one right way to do it. If you want to let YPAO calibrate the subs individually for distance and levels, you need to use both outputs from the AVR. You can still set it for "mono x2" and get separate setups. Do whichever seems to work right for you.
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post #2952 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Yesterday, I finally had an opportunity to fully re-run YPAO since adding the 2nd sub to my setup. I'm trying to figure out whether I did this right.

I have a 3040; I am using one of the sub outputs on the 3040 to the in on my Anti-Mode 8033s II; out from the Anti-Mode is then split to the 2 subs.

I ran the Anti-Mode calibration, then I ran YPAO.

The YPAO result shows only 1 sub; I'm assuming this is because of the way it is wired up, so that YPAO is seeing and calibrating the 2 subs as 1.

Is this the proper setup/result?
Hi AC2011,

The sub channel is comprised of two parts as follows:

(a) Part one is the LFE track in the 0.1 channel of a 5.1/7.1 multi-channel soundtrack; and
(b) Part two is bass re-directed channels from any of the floor or ceiling speakers that's been selected to 'SMALL' and below the selected crossover frequency.

These two parts are combined to form a single output from the receiver that's commonly referred to as the sub channel or bass. See picture below on the signal processing diagram for a 5.1 system.


So the single sub channel coming out of A3040 to the Anti-mode 8033s II is correct.

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post #2953 of 3461 Old 01-25-2016, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
I understand the concepts of what you're describing above. But...

...I've been playing around with the settings a bit. I even ran the YPAO measurements using multi-point measurements. Each time, the YPAO sets my front 3 speakers to Large and my surrounds to Small. It sets the Subwoofer to 120hz (probably because of my rear surround speakers).

As a test, I listened to some music in 2-channel mode. While listening, I switched the speaker configuration from Large to Small. Each time I change it, I hear a noticeable difference in the sound. With Large, I hear a fuller, richer sound. With Small, it sounds "thinner", for the lack of a better term. I feel like something's missing in Small mode. Perhaps some mid-range? Perhaps some bass? In Large mode, does the bass signal go to the speaker AND the subwoofer?

So far I think I prefer the settings on Large, even though my brain tells me that the above advice makes perfect sense. My speakers (Polk RT-10's) have a range from 30hz-25khz so I know that it can reasonably produce bass, so setting them to Large seems perfectly reasonable. My Center is a Polk Csi3. It can't reproduce the same low frequency as the RT-10's so setting the center to Small makes sense, despite the fact that the receiver automatically sets it to large.

I think more experimentation is necessary.
Where is the sub located within the room and is it at the best position to give good bass response with respect to the Main Listening Position (MLP)? If you haven't done so, carry out the simple sub crawl test as shown in Axiom Audio's youtube video below.
The sub crawl test will help identify some good locations to place the sub. Choose the one location that sounds the best for bass reproduction with respect to the MLP.

How large is your room? Front to back, side to side and floor to ceiling dimensions please. Is your room the typical rectangular shape or odd shaped with uneven wall or sloped ceiling? Is the room completely enclosed or opens to other rooms? Please note that bass frequencies will 'see' the entire room volume.

Where is the MLP with respect to the room boundaries and speakers? A sketch will help and say much more than words in a post.

What is the make and model of your sub? Do you have more than a single sub to help improve bass response?

Are you prepared to roll up the sleeves and jump down the rabbit hole of in room measurements to find out what the real problems are and address them in a systematic way rather than guessing?

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #2954 of 3461 Old 01-26-2016, 04:41 PM
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setting up the rx-a2040 with only two speakers

which settings for rx-a2040 with only front left and right speakers in my bedroom. I have it set for straight mode and it doesn't sound very good.
anyone? please a suggestion
I changed the mode to stereo and it sounds better, but I can't do an auto run with only two speakers I believe,
PLEASE ANYONE WITH OPINION, sorry for the caps

when you always do what you've alway done, you always get what you always got.

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post #2955 of 3461 Old 01-26-2016, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Where is the sub located within the room and is it at the best position to give good bass response with respect to the Main Listening Position (MLP)? If you haven't done so, carry out the simple sub crawl test as shown in Axiom Audio's youtube video below.
Axiom Audio sub crawl test
The sub crawl test will help identify some good locations to place the sub. Choose the one location that sounds the best for bass reproduction with respect to the MLP.

How large is your room? Front to back, side to side and floor to ceiling dimensions please. Is your room the typical rectangular shape or odd shaped with uneven wall or sloped ceiling? Is the room completely enclosed or opens to other rooms? Please note that bass frequencies will 'see' the entire room volume.

Where is the MLP with respect to the room boundaries and speakers? A sketch will help and say much more than words in a post.

What is the make and model of your sub? Do you have more than a single sub to help improve bass response?

Are you prepared to roll up the sleeves and jump down the rabbit hole of in room measurements to find out what the real problems are and address them in a systematic way rather than guessing?
I watched the sub crawl video last time and it's a fantastic tool. However, I don't have the flexibility to re-position my subwoofer since the room is not a dedicated media room. It's part media room, part family room, part homework room (lol), etc. I will draw a diagram of it, though. and edit this post with the update. My subwoofer is an old KEF 30B powered sub (front firing).

Mostly, I'm curious about exactly how the crossover works. Comparing it to my old RXV-1000, I was able to choose if the bass signal went to "sub", "main speaker" or "both". The default setting is "both".

With the RX-A1040 I have a feeling that with the main speakers set to "Large" it would be the same as "both" on my old receiver. The main speakers are getting the LFE signal as well as sending it down to the subwoofer. Perhaps that's why it sounds so much fuller when I set the speakers to Large.

I think I'll do the sub crawl anyway, since it sounds like a really good way to find a location. Who knows, maybe the best spot for the sub is where is already is?

Thanks for the effort and the advice. Diagram to come.
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Last edited by VikenK; 01-26-2016 at 06:45 PM. Reason: Adding diagrams
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post #2956 of 3461 Old 01-26-2016, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VikenK View Post
I watched the sub crawl video last time and it's a fantastic tool. However, I don't have the flexibility to re-position my subwoofer since the room is not a dedicated media room. It's part media room, part family room, part homework room (lol), etc. I will draw a diagram of it, though. and edit this post with the update. My subwoofer is an old KEF 30B powered sub (front firing).

Mostly, I'm curious about exactly how the crossover works. Comparing it to my old RXV-1000, I was able to choose if the bass signal went to "sub", "main speaker" or "both". The default setting is "both".

With the RX-A1040 I have a feeling that with the main speakers set to "Large" it would be the same as "both" on my old receiver. The main speakers are getting the LFE signal as well as sending it down to the subwoofer. Perhaps that's why it sounds so much fuller when I set the speakers to Large.

I think I'll do the sub crawl anyway, since it sounds like a really good way to find a location. Who knows, maybe the best spot for the sub is where is already is?

Thanks for the effort and the advice. Diagram to come.
What you've been doing with the older Yamaha (RXV-1000) is called 'double bass' where 0.1 channel is repeated to the fronts as well as the sub. You probably got used to this sound and thus when the proper bass management was set up, it's easy to think what happened to the low end?

The majority of people in ordinary listening rooms like the ski slope shape in the frequency response curve. See the picture below.


The LFE channel goes up to 120Hz (and can do down to single digit frequencies) so if the phase alignment of both the fronts as well as the sub is coincident, you'll be getting a nice boost from 120Hz down to what the speakers and subs can play to.

Both the Polk RT-10 and KEF 30B sub are quite old. Believe KEF started making the 30B sub in 1995 and things have changed considerably since then. I couldn't find any spec sheet for the Polk RT-10, but could at least for the sub from KEF. It's a 12" driver with a 100W amp. Interesting the KEF 30B sub is rated to 40Hz which isn't as good as the 30Hz rating of the Polk RT-10 that you've stated in the previous post. Might want to start saving up for a better sub.

When the speaker is set to 'LARGE' there is no bass management and thus no crossover employed.

When the speaker is to 'SMALL' and the crossover implemented, take note that the crossover point is not a brick wall. There is gradual role off on each side of the crossover point such that the SPL is down by so much dB an octave above and below. Generally this is -12dB, but not sure what Yamaha engineers implemented in their bass management plans. Sometimes the filters employed might not sum correctly and cause a dip at the crossover point. A technique called the sub distance tweak has been developed to fine tune the sub phase delay and make the splice a bit better/smoother. There is a write up somewhere in AVS about this. A USB mic and REW is your friend to check out the crossover point and implement the sub distance tweak.

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Last edited by steveting99; 01-26-2016 at 10:24 PM. Reason: additional text
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post #2957 of 3461 Old 01-29-2016, 06:54 AM
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HDCP 2.2 compliance question

Hi all, apologies if this has already been posted -- went through the thread and didn't see it but may have missed it. I've owned my Aventage 1040 for about 18 months, and I absolutely love it. However, last week I purchased a Vizio M60 4k television and, long story short, I've learned a lot about 4k HDCP in the past few days, including the fact that my receiver isn't HDCP 2.2 compliant and therefore won't allow me to run my Roku 4 through the Yamaha to the Vizio. Does anyone know if Yamaha plans a firmware upgrade to all 2.2 support, or is that not even a possibility? I'm a little dismayed, because I bought this unit with plans to buy a 4k TV in the not-too-distant future, and I thought I was making a somewhat future-proof investment. In the meantime, I'm running the video direct from the Roku to the TV via HDMI, and the audio to the receiver via the Roku's optical output. It works fine, sync is ok, etc., but it's annoying, particularly because my theater room is all wire-molded and looks great, but now I have a rogue HDMI cable snaking along the wall to the TV (there isn't enough room in the wire mold to run a 2nd HDMI cable, because I --somewhat ignorantly-- assumed I'd only need the single output from the receiver). It really makes the Spouse Approval Rating of the space go way down.

Upgrading to the 2.2 compliant Aventage **50 line really isn't economically in the cards right now, so I'm hoping someone may have some input or suggestions on the best way to proceed before I start the trial and error process (or start ripping off the wire mold and reconfiguring). Thanks in advance for any help!
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post #2958 of 3461 Old 01-29-2016, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by singlemalt10 View Post
Hi all, apologies if this has already been posted -- went through the thread and didn't see it but may have missed it. I've owned my Aventage 1040 for about 18 months, and I absolutely love it. However, last week I purchased a Vizio M60 4k television and, long story short, I've learned a lot about 4k HDCP in the past few days, including the fact that my receiver isn't HDCP 2.2 compliant and therefore won't allow me to run my Roku 4 through the Yamaha to the Vizio. Does anyone know if Yamaha plans a firmware upgrade to all 2.2 support, or is that not even a possibility? I'm a little dismayed, because I bought this unit with plans to buy a 4k TV in the not-too-distant future, and I thought I was making a somewhat future-proof investment. In the meantime, I'm running the video direct from the Roku to the TV via HDMI, and the audio to the receiver via the Roku's optical output. It works fine, sync is ok, etc., but it's annoying, particularly because my theater room is all wire-molded and looks great, but now I have a rogue HDMI cable snaking along the wall to the TV (there isn't enough room in the wire mold to run a 2nd HDMI cable, because I --somewhat ignorantly-- assumed I'd only need the single output from the receiver). It really makes the Spouse Approval Rating of the space go way down.

Upgrading to the 2.2 compliant Aventage **50 line really isn't economically in the cards right now, so I'm hoping someone may have some input or suggestions on the best way to proceed before I start the trial and error process (or start ripping off the wire mold and reconfiguring). Thanks in advance for any help!

Upgrading to HDCP 2.2 in an existing receiver is not possible. It is both a hardware and software restriction. So unless you will be getting a new receiver, not possible.

What could be possible is if you run the roku directly to the TV and your TV has ARC (audio return channel) you could send the audio back to the receiver, and ditch the optical cable. (But depending on your TV, you might only get stereo sound through ARC) This also wouldn't get rid of that second HDMI cable.


Basically for full 4K standard compliance (HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, etc.) you need one of the yamaha xx50 receivers.
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post #2959 of 3461 Old 01-29-2016, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by singlemalt10 View Post
...Upgrading to the 2.2 compliant Aventage **50 line really isn't economically in the cards right now, so I'm hoping someone may have some input or suggestions on the best way to proceed before I start the trial and error process (or start ripping off the wire mold and reconfiguring).

Boxes are starting to appearing that convert HDCP 2.2 to something that older devices accept. Not sure if there any cheaper ones, but a couple I found are:

https://www.hdfury.com/shop/splitter...60-444-600mhz/
http://www.hdtvsupply.com/hdcp-2-2-t...FcwWHwodg4YOsA
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post #2960 of 3461 Old 01-31-2016, 12:59 AM
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Hi everyone. I got the rx-a3040 and I'm loving the sound. The problem is that when I'm using surround decoders, there is a noticeable delay to the sound to the point where the mouth movements don't match the sound. Is this normal? If I use straight or pure direct there is no problem.
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post #2961 of 3461 Old 01-31-2016, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Daemun View Post
Hi everyone. I got the rx-a3040 and I'm loving the sound. The problem is that when I'm using surround decoders, there is a noticeable delay to the sound to the point where the mouth movements don't match the sound. Is this normal? If I use straight or pure direct there is no problem.
There is a setting in the receiver to change the delay. Consult your owners manual.
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post #2962 of 3461 Old 01-31-2016, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Daemun View Post
Hi everyone. I got the rx-a3040 and I'm loving the sound. The problem is that when I'm using surround decoders, there is a noticeable delay to the sound to the point where the mouth movements don't match the sound. Is this normal? If I use straight or pure direct there is no problem.

If you're saying the sound is already delayed too much, then changing the audio delay setting in the receiver won't help (it can't go less than 0). But start by setting a manual lipsync delay of 0ms to make sure it's as low as it can go (p. 129 of the 3040 manual).

What kind of display are you using? Normally the video delay in the display is more than the audio delay in the receiver, so you just add audio delay. If you have a display with very low video delay you have a problem (although sometimes turning on more video processing in the display will add more delay to the picture, which helps).
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post #2963 of 3461 Old 01-31-2016, 02:17 PM
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Thanks for the note. I'm using an Epson 2045 projector. It's known to have slightly lower input delay, but nothing too ridiculous that I know of.

Is it normal for surround decoders to add that much delay? Is it possible I have a faulty device?

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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
If you're saying the sound is already delayed too much, then changing the audio delay setting in the receiver won't help (it can't go less than 0). But start by setting a manual lipsync delay of 0ms to make sure it's as low as it can go (p. 129 of the 3040 manual).

What kind of display are you using? Normally the video delay in the display is more than the audio delay in the receiver, so you just add audio delay. If you have a display with very low video delay you have a problem (although sometimes turning on more video processing in the display will add more delay to the picture, which helps).
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post #2964 of 3461 Old 02-01-2016, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Daemun View Post
Thanks for the note. I'm using an Epson 2045 projector. It's known to have slightly lower input delay, but nothing too ridiculous that I know of. Is it normal for surround decoders to add that much delay? Is it possible I have a faulty device?

The audio lag with processing enabled will be more than Pure Direct mode. I don't know the exact value, but I doubt you have a faulty receiver.

To get perfect lipsync you usually have to set delays manually, don't expect it to just happen. Set the receiver to manual lipsync so you can then experiment with different delays.

On the projector side I've seen reviews of the Epson 2045 claiming 25ms of lag, which probably is lower than the audio delay through the receiver, but I would expect it to still look OK with a manual delay of 0ms. You do have some control over the projector video lag because turning on frame interpolation adds quite a lot of extra video delay on the Epson.

So I would start with the lipsync set to manual and 0ms. If adding extra audio delay just makes things worse, turn on frame interpolation in the projector and try again.
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post #2965 of 3461 Old 02-02-2016, 06:20 PM
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What you've been doing with the older Yamaha (RXV-1000) is called 'double bass' where 0.1 channel is repeated to the fronts as well as the sub. You probably got used to this sound and thus when the proper bass management was set up, it's easy to think what happened to the low end?
This was my suspicion. For now, I'm evaluating both Small and Large speaker modes. It's quite possible I'll end up with two different settings for different uses: One for TV / Movie watching, one for music, etc


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Both the Polk RT-10 and KEF 30B sub are quite old. Believe KEF started making the 30B sub in 1995 and things have changed considerably since then. I couldn't find any spec sheet for the Polk RT-10, but could at least for the sub from KEF. It's a 12" driver with a 100W amp. Interesting the KEF 30B sub is rated to 40Hz which isn't as good as the 30Hz rating of the Polk RT-10 that you've stated in the previous post. Might want to start saving up for a better sub.
Yes. They're oldies but goodies I tend to buy out of need as opposed to upgrading. I bought the RT-10's when I bought my house in 2001. I bought the KEF about a year or so earlier than the speakers. I get good performance out of them and never saw the need to upgrade.

I seriously considered buying a whole new set of speakers just two weeks ago but I couldn't justify the money right now and ended up just replacing the RT-10 woofer. I found an OEM woofer on ebay and bought it. Perhaps I will indeed save up for a new subwoofer

I thank you for your advice and an evaluating the different speaker modes.

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post #2966 of 3461 Old 02-10-2016, 11:05 PM
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How do you tell there is an Atmos track being played on this unit? Is there any indication on the front display?
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post #2967 of 3461 Old 02-11-2016, 01:21 AM
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How do you tell there is an Atmos track being played on this unit? Is there any indication on the front display?
On the Front display, my 3040 display fades back and forth between the incoming signal type (Atmos / Dolly Digital / DTS) and the processing type chosen. (Dolby Surround / PLII / Neo-X)

*Warning* None of my suggestions, ideas or even thoughts have any WAF, in any way!
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How do you tell there is an Atmos track being played on this unit? Is there any indication on the front display?
Press "Info" repeatedly on the remote.
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post #2969 of 3461 Old 02-11-2016, 05:45 AM
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Thanks! I just upgraded the firmware and wasn't sure how to make sure it is decoding Atmos. That is not mentioned in the Atmos supplement flyer.

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Last edited by larrimore; 02-11-2016 at 11:54 AM.
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Does the 1040 have a firmware upgrade to handle HDMI 2.0a or at least handle HDR signal?

I don't care too much about HDCP but HDR is something that I care about
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