The **OFFICIAL** Marantz AV7702 Pre/Pro - Page 201 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6001 of 6588 Old 04-06-2016, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
Red, I would try some different measurements as the Audyssey XT32 on this unit is the best I have heard to date there are a few reviews stating this as well. If you are lacking bass turn the sub level up 3 to 6 db. I bet Marantz did not fix the trigger output on the 7702 mkii people have reported. My next processor will be an Anthem when I upgrade.
I re-ran Audyssey and it smoothed out my measurements. I dont know what happen. But my measurements looks good now and it seems to sound as it should now.


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post #6002 of 6588 Old 04-06-2016, 07:26 PM
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I re-ran Audyssey and it smoothed out my measurements. I dont know what happen. But my measurements looks good now and it seems to sound as it should now.

Good how many positions did you do? And did you make sure they were no more than two feet from the mlp?
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post #6003 of 6588 Old 04-08-2016, 12:33 AM
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YO jdsmoothie , Just FYI'ing you that when I view your Sig. in 'Retro' colors, I cannot see what you have written because of blue-on-blue-ish text).....Yes, there are still people like me that prefer the RETRO SCHEME!
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post #6004 of 6588 Old 04-08-2016, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KBMAN View Post
YO jdsmoothie , Just FYI'ing you that when I view your Sig. in 'Retro' colors, I cannot see what you have written because of blue-on-blue-ish text).....Yes, there are still people like me that prefer the RETRO SCHEME!
Thanks. Changed it to Magenta so you "Retro" folks can see my contact info as well.
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post #6005 of 6588 Old 04-08-2016, 11:55 AM
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post #6006 of 6588 Old 04-12-2016, 07:12 AM
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Question,

Has anyone used the DLNA feature on this preamp? I'd like to use my NAS to push music to my system (via a renderer) and my Ipad for control. Does the Marantz have any native control?

Can you describe how you have your setup configured and how you use it?

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post #6007 of 6588 Old 04-12-2016, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post
Question,

Has anyone used the DLNA feature on this preamp? I'd like to use my NAS to push music to my system (via a renderer) and my Ipad for control. Does the Marantz have any native control?

Can you describe how you have your setup configured and how you use it?
FWIW, my SR7009 (almost identical to the 7702 preamps) usually doesn't turn on if it's powered off when it's accessed as a renderer from a DLNA controller (Kodi, in my case). Once it did but was in a funny state afterward. It works fine when used just as a client, selecting items from its local DLNA menu pages.

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post #6008 of 6588 Old 04-20-2016, 06:37 AM
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Has anyone noticed that their 7702 keeps defaulting to wireless connection? I've mine set to wired connection with a fixed IP address but every so often it keeps switching back to wireless. Have no idea why it keeps doing it....

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post #6009 of 6588 Old 04-21-2016, 07:03 PM
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Any idea what a good open box price is? Found one with just unit for under $600 and I've got a Harmony remote...
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post #6010 of 6588 Old 04-22-2016, 02:54 PM
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Another issue I'm having.

So two HDMI outputs:
- Monitor 1 -> Sony TV
- Monitor 2 -> Sony Projector (HW40)

HDMI set to auto or dual, something like that.

Have a new Amazon Fire TV coming in through one of the HDMI inputs. Watch on the TV and the picture is rock solid. Watch on the projector and the screen flashes/flickers/goes black every 5 seconds for about a 2 seconds.

Tests:
- Power down 7702 (disconnect plug for 1 minute) and restart. Flicker
- Plug projector direct to FTV (bypass 7702). Perfect picture
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 1 (Monitor 2 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 2 (Monitor 1 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- As above and plug back in Sony TV to Monitor 1. Instant flicker.
- Plugged a Dr.HDMI into Monitor 2 and emulated the Sony TV EDID so the 7702 thinks there's two of the same TV plugged in. Faster flicker - interval between flickers is now about 3 or 4 seconds and the flicker itself is about 1 second.

My other sources are perfect on both the Sony TV/projector with both Monitor 1 & 2 plugged in: Sky HD, HTPC, second satellite box etc. Just the FTV flickers the projector (not the TV) with both Monitor 1 & 2 connected.

Any ideas?

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post #6011 of 6588 Old 04-22-2016, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjackson View Post
Another issue I'm having.

So two HDMI outputs:
- Monitor 1 -> Sony TV
- Monitor 2 -> Sony Projector (HW40)

HDMI set to auto or dual, something like that.

Have a new Amazon Fire TV coming in through one of the HDMI inputs. Watch on the TV and the picture is rock solid. Watch on the projector and the screen flashes/flickers/goes black every 5 seconds for about a 2 seconds.

Tests:
- Power down 7702 (disconnect plug for 1 minute) and restart. Flicker
- Plug projector direct to FTV (bypass 7702). Perfect picture
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 1 (Monitor 2 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 2 (Monitor 1 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- As above and plug back in Sony TV to Monitor 1. Instant flicker.
- Plugged a Dr.HDMI into Monitor 2 and emulated the Sony TV EDID so the 7702 thinks there's two of the same TV plugged in. Faster flicker - interval between flickers is now about 3 or 4 seconds and the flicker itself is about 1 second.

My other sources are perfect on both the Sony TV/projector with both Monitor 1 & 2 plugged in: Sky HD, HTPC, second satellite box etc. Just the FTV flickers the projector (not the TV) with both Monitor 1 & 2 connected.

Any ideas?
Are both the TV and PJ 1080p? Try using each of the other HDMI inputs for the FTV.
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post #6012 of 6588 Old 04-26-2016, 07:52 PM
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Hoping that someone can confirm what I'm thinking about Bluetooth and Zone 3 audio. So far, I haven't been able to get it to work and in reading the manual it states that "The analog audio signal and the 2-channel PCM signal input from digital connectors (OPTICAL/COAXIAL) can be played back in ZONE3". So, does that mean that I'm SOL playing Bluetooth audio throughout my home using the Zone 2/3 preouts?? I do have a work-around (several Logitech Bluetooth adapters) but I would prefer the cleaner install of just using the Bluetooth on the Marantz.

Thanks folks

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post #6013 of 6588 Old 04-26-2016, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjackson View Post
Another issue I'm having.

So two HDMI outputs:
- Monitor 1 -> Sony TV
- Monitor 2 -> Sony Projector (HW40)

HDMI set to auto or dual, something like that.

Have a new Amazon Fire TV coming in through one of the HDMI inputs. Watch on the TV and the picture is rock solid. Watch on the projector and the screen flashes/flickers/goes black every 5 seconds for about a 2 seconds.

Tests:
- Power down 7702 (disconnect plug for 1 minute) and restart. Flicker
- Plug projector direct to FTV (bypass 7702). Perfect picture
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 1 (Monitor 2 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- FTV into 7702. Projector from Monitor 2 (Monitor 1 disconnected). Perfect picture.
- As above and plug back in Sony TV to Monitor 1. Instant flicker.
- Plugged a Dr.HDMI into Monitor 2 and emulated the Sony TV EDID so the 7702 thinks there's two of the same TV plugged in. Faster flicker - interval between flickers is now about 3 or 4 seconds and the flicker itself is about 1 second.

My other sources are perfect on both the Sony TV/projector with both Monitor 1 & 2 plugged in: Sky HD, HTPC, second satellite box etc. Just the FTV flickers the projector (not the TV) with both Monitor 1 & 2 connected.

Any ideas?
Did you ever get this figured out? I had serious issues with flicker as well.....similar to yours. I didn't get around to testing it quite as extensively as you did, but I did notice that I got no flicker from the TV in the Monitor 1 spot. Just from the projector in the Monitor 2 spot. I even disconnected and bypassed my Darbee to see if that was the culprit.....to no avail. What I did notice is that if I let the source play for awhile, the flicker seemed to resolve itself some of the time. Eventually, I changed the Video Conversion to "Off" (from Auto) and set Resolution to "1080p" (since I'm not using 4k at this time). I got flicker during the menu of the first Blu-ray I watched, but I didn't see it at all after that (2 additional blu-rays). My fingers are crossed, but I'm hoping that this issue is solved.

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post #6014 of 6588 Old 04-27-2016, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ApolloCreed View Post
Hoping that someone can confirm what I'm thinking about Bluetooth and Zone 3 audio. So far, I haven't been able to get it to work and in reading the manual it states that "The analog audio signal and the 2-channel PCM signal input from digital connectors (OPTICAL/COAXIAL) can be played back in ZONE3". So, does that mean that I'm SOL playing Bluetooth audio throughout my home using the Zone 2/3 preouts?? I do have a work-around (several Logitech Bluetooth adapters) but I would prefer the cleaner install of just using the Bluetooth on the Marantz.

Thanks folks
Nope. Any networking source as well as Bluetooth can play to Zones 2/3.
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post #6015 of 6588 Old 04-28-2016, 10:15 AM
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So here is a seriously basic question. Do any of you guys have problems with the HDMI output cable not really making a good contact because the cord is heavy and it keeps bending it down a bit? Happens to me a lot....which is why I think HDMI is a stupid connector. They need a more robust strain relief of some sort or locking feature.

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post #6016 of 6588 Old 04-28-2016, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post
So here is a seriously basic question. Do any of you guys have problems with the HDMI output cable not really making a good contact because the cord is heavy and it keeps bending it down a bit? Happens to me a lot....which is why I think HDMI is a stupid connector. They need a more robust strain relief of some sort or locking feature.

I use to buy monster hdmi cables and they are very stiff cables and had those same issues and now I buy Audioquest hdmi cables that are very flexible and much easier to manage.
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post #6017 of 6588 Old 04-28-2016, 11:18 AM
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Good to know. Are they good for long runs to a projector?

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post #6018 of 6588 Old 04-28-2016, 11:25 AM
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[QUOTE=AudioJosh;43634202]Good to know. Are they good for long runs to a projector?[/QUOTE


I wouldn't see that being an issue but you would have the flexibility with Audioquest for those long runs.
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post #6019 of 6588 Old 04-29-2016, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post
Good to know. Are they good for long runs to a projector?
Longer runs require thicker copper wires in order to minimize attenuation and dispersion of the HDMI signal. As a result, they're going to be heavier and stiffer. There's simply no way around that. You have to provide appropriate external "strain relief" to support them. (e.g. cable-ties fastening them to nearby support posts),

"Active" cables (like Redmere from Monoprice) have amplifiers built into them to compensate for the attenuation and dispersion, resulting in thinner and more flexible cables. Unfortunately, the circuitry in their so-called 18GHz cables is not quite good enough to carry a full UHD 4k 60Hz video signal. Hopefully they'll have a redesigned version available soon.

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post #6020 of 6588 Old 04-29-2016, 11:47 AM
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That is what I thought as well. That is why I am currently using a big fat HDMI cable ~35' iirc (also from monoprice). But it is so thick and inflexible it puts a lot of strain on the connection and there really isn't a great place to tie it in my rack. I am going to have to engineer something. Someone should come out with a integral strain relief HDMI connection. All these modern connectors are so fragile and finicky.

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post #6021 of 6588 Old 04-29-2016, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post
That is what I thought as well. That is why I am currently using a big fat HDMI cable ~35' iirc (also from monoprice). But it is so thick and inflexible it puts a lot of strain on the connection and there really isn't a great place to tie it in my rack. I am going to have to engineer something. Someone should come out with a integral strain relief HDMI connection. All these modern connectors are so fragile and finicky.
I feel you man, I too get concerned sometimes with my quarter-sized diameter HDMI cord. Im waiting with baited breathe for a better option before it fries a connection. Been lucky so far.

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post #6022 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 03:59 PM
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Several months ago I posted that I was experiencing a fading of the sound in the front right channel. Sent in my Marantz to my local repair center who could not replicate the problem. Then off the unit goes to United Radio where they too couldn't replicate the problem. Now three months have passed until I get my Marantz back to test again for the same problem. I used different speakers, XLR connectors, cables, etc. and each time when I used my system, this fading of the right front channel occurred. Then it hits me, let me try the RCA connectors for my amp that powers the front two speakers and see if I can replicate the problem. Running the amp for a couple of hours, I could not replicate the problem. Definitely an issue with using the XLR connectors. Then I thought, is the Marantz and my Marsh Sound Design A200s stereo amp mismatched. Checking the Marsh specs, the amp is only rated at 4K Ohms using the XLRs while it is 57 K Ohms using RCAs. I used my Wyred4Sound ST-250 stereo amp using XLR connectors and didn't experience any fading of sound. The Wyred4Sound is rated at 60.4 K Ohms for both XLR and RCA. When I had the Marsh power the rear surrounds to see if the problem would follow, it did. I had an issue with fading in the right rear surround channel.

After three months of not having my Marantz and being able to use my HT system, I would think that one of these repair centers would have asked me what am I using in my system to determine compatibility. Just make sure that if you do use an amp with this processor and want to use XLR connectors, just make sure to have an amp that has a output impedance that would be compatible with the Marantz. As I type this, I have been using my Marantz for more than a week without issues. Nice to have the HT system back online.
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post #6023 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 06:15 PM
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Several months ago I posted that I was experiencing a fading of the sound in the front right channel. Sent in my Marantz to my local repair center who could not replicate the problem. Then off the unit goes to United Radio where they too couldn't replicate the problem. Now three months have passed until I get my Marantz back to test again for the same problem. I used different speakers, XLR connectors, cables, etc. and each time when I used my system, this fading of the right front channel occurred. Then it hits me, let me try the RCA connectors for my amp that powers the front two speakers and see if I can replicate the problem. Running the amp for a couple of hours, I could not replicate the problem. Definitely an issue with using the XLR connectors. Then I thought, is the Marantz and my Marsh Sound Design A200s stereo amp mismatched. Checking the Marsh specs, the amp is only rated at 4K Ohms using the XLRs while it is 57 K Ohms using RCAs. I used my Wyred4Sound ST-250 stereo amp using XLR connectors and didn't experience any fading of sound. The Wyred4Sound is rated at 60.4 K Ohms for both XLR and RCA. When I had the Marsh power the rear surrounds to see if the problem would follow, it did. I had an issue with fading in the right rear surround channel.

After three months of not having my Marantz and being able to use my HT system, I would think that one of these repair centers would have asked me what am I using in my system to determine compatibility. Just make sure that if you do use an amp with this processor and want to use XLR connectors, just make sure to have an amp that has a output impedance that would be compatible with the Marantz. As I type this, I have been using my Marantz for more than a week without issues. Nice to have the HT system back online.

Or put another way .. whenever sending a unit in for repair, always provide the procedure used to recreate the issue so the repair facility also has a better chance of recreating the issue.
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post #6024 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 06:19 PM
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Or put another way .. whenever sending a unit in for repair, always provide the procedure used to recreate the issue so the repair facility also has a better chance of recreating the issue.
I tried to convey my test procedure at the time with both repair centers but neither one asked me what equipment I used. Lesson learned.
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post #6025 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 06:22 PM
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I tried to convey my test procedure at the time with both repair centers but neither one asked me what equipment I used. Lesson learned.
Yup. These guys are always on the ball.
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post #6026 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 06:52 PM
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Hi guys,
Not sure if there is a separate AV7702mkII thread, may I ask the question here?
When I run Audyssey MultEQ® XT32 it seems to default to large speakers. I have bookshelf speakers. How do I change the audyssey setting to small? The menu does not ask small or large. Seems to default to large.
I can set the speakers up to small in manual settings. However I'm not using XT32 in that case.
Once I set up small in manual, it stays that way in manual.
When I go back to XT32, it says it's set up as Large.

Second question. If I set the small speakers to 80hz, shouldn't the sub be 80hz also? Seem it wants to default to 120hz.

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post #6027 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Hi guys,
Not sure if there is a separate AV7702mkII thread, may I ask the question here?
When I run Audyssey MultEQ® XT32 it seems to default to large speakers. I have bookshelf speakers. How do I change the audyssey setting to small? The menu does not ask small or large. Seems to default to large.
I can set the speakers up to small in manual settings. However I'm not using XT32 in that case.
Once I set up small in manual, it stays that way in manual.
When I go back to XT32, it says it's set up as Large.

Second question. If I set the small speakers to 80hz, shouldn't the sub be 80hz also? Seem it wants to default to 120hz.
Yes, there is a separate AV7702MKII thread but let me try to answer your questions. You already found out that the only way to change your speakers from large to small is to do it manually. Once you calibrated your system, those calibrations affect your manual settings. If you set your speakers crossover to 80Hz, just make sure your sub is connected to your Marantz and not using the sub's internal crossover. Let the Marantz do the work.
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post #6028 of 6588 Old 05-04-2016, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioJosh View Post
That is what I thought as well. That is why I am currently using a big fat HDMI cable ~35' iirc (also from monoprice). But it is so thick and inflexible it puts a lot of strain on the connection and there really isn't a great place to tie it in my rack. I am going to have to engineer something. Someone should come out with a integral strain relief HDMI connection. All these modern connectors are so fragile and finicky.
I've used a 90 degree HDMI adapter that works pretty well with heavy stiff HDMI cables. Only about $10 bucks AFAIR.

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post #6029 of 6588 Old 05-05-2016, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Hi guys,
Not sure if there is a separate AV7702mkII thread, may I ask the question here?
When I run Audyssey MultEQ® XT32 it seems to default to large speakers. I have bookshelf speakers. How do I change the audyssey setting to small? The menu does not ask small or large. Seems to default to large.
I can set the speakers up to small in manual settings. However I'm not using XT32 in that case.
Once I set up small in manual, it stays that way in manual.
When I go back to XT32, it says it's set up as Large.

Second question. If I set the small speakers to 80hz, shouldn't the sub be 80hz also? Seem it wants to default to 120hz.

1. Yes, the AV7702MKII is discussed in the following thread --> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...-s-thread.html

2. The AVP will set any speaker that is detected to being able to go down < 50Hz (regardless of the actual size of the speaker or the mfr's specs) to LARGE.

3. When you change the setting to SMALL in Manual Setup, this now becomes the new "active" setting; however, the Audyssey EQ is still enabled.

4. When you set the speaker to SMALL/80Hz, the lower frequencies < 80Hz are passed to sub. The LPF for LFE setting (which defaults to 120Hz) is only referring to the "LFE" signal (ie. the 0.1 in DD/DTS 5.1/7.1 audio) which only goes to the sub (ie. nothing to do with the speaker frequencies).
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post #6030 of 6588 Old 05-05-2016, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Yes, the AV7702MKII is discussed in the following thread --> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...-s-thread.html

2. The AVP will set any speaker that is detected to being able to go down < 50Hz (regardless of the actual size of the speaker or the mfr's specs) to LARGE.

3. When you change the setting to SMALL in Manual Setup, this now becomes the new "active" setting; however, the Audyssey EQ is still enabled.

4. When you set the speaker to SMALL/80Hz, the lower frequencies < 80Hz are passed to sub. The LPF for LFE setting (which defaults to 120Hz) is only referring to the "LFE" signal (ie. the 0.1 in DD/DTS 5.1/7.1 audio) which only goes to the sub (ie. nothing to do with the speaker frequencies).
Thank you JD.

4. Not sure I understand the answer.
I can change the small speakers to 80Hz. The sub defaults to 120HZ. I can change the sub to 80Hz.
Don't I want the sub to take over at 80Hz? Or take over at 120Hz?

7.2.4, AV7702mkII, MM8077, MC205, UDP-203, 82Q90R, Tivo Bolt, Richard Gray 400s, B&W Nautilus, Fathom F113, Harmony Elite
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