The Official Anthem AVM 60 thread - Page 334 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9991 of 10045 Old 05-25-2020, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Ok, just checking the easy stuff.
And the display reports no signal -- it's not just a black image? If you open the AVM setup menu, nothing appears?
Got any other displays handy to try? I realize this is a "long shot."
My Projector screen just has HDMI 1 on it which is the input of the Sony projector that I have the one and only HDMI interconnect plugged into.

As part of my troubleshooting, I did bring in a 4K Sony TV and same problem, no picture.
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post #9992 of 10045 Old 05-25-2020, 03:38 PM
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I suspect you are well beyond this, but I have a macro for my SONY projector that switches the input to HDMI2 and then back to 1. That causes the whole chair to renegotiate the handshake and can cure this sort of problem if things come up out of sync for whatever reason.

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post #9993 of 10045 Old 05-30-2020, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgmsmg View Post
Could any of you AVM60 owners classify the sound signature? I currently have a Yamaha CX A5100 and was wondering how it would differ if I made a move to the Anthem. I know this is very subjective and has a lot to do with the rest of your system. I have Parasound Halo amplifiers and Polk Audio LSiM speakers so my systems already tends to be on the warmer side of things.
Hi sgmsmg -

I like warm sound signatures. I had a Marantz SR8012, which I liked very much. To my ear Marantz has a pleasing warm sound on SVS ultra speakers. The Marantz didn't have enough power for me and I moved to Anthem AVM 60 & MCA amps, with the same SVS ultra speakers. Honestly, I couldn't be happier with the AVM 60's sound signature. It's warm, clear, and precise. The Anthem Room Correction is stellar. I'm very, very happy with my AVM 60.

Reed.
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post #9994 of 10045 Old 05-31-2020, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick granato View Post
Just picked mine up today and hooked it up, boy this thing is complicated! Loving it so far, but just basic hook up, haven't even done the ARC yet. I will probably be leaning on some of you fine folks here so please forgive me for the upcoming stupidity. I have to pick up some Atmos up firing speakers before I do my calibrations,(in a condo so in ceiling speakers are out of the question) but so far, loving the sound quality! Just a question, I have hard wired to my network, but can you update software through that connection? Says it has to be downloaded to a thumb drive?
I've only had mine a week and so far haven't found a way to update it by network. The thumb drive is easy enough so I haven't put a lot of effort into it. Did you find a way to update via network?
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post #9995 of 10045 Old 05-31-2020, 09:49 AM
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No I haven't, I believe it's by thumb drive only.
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post #9996 of 10045 Old 05-31-2020, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick granato View Post
No I haven't, I believe it's by thumb drive only.

Correct, thumb drive only as far as I know.

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post #9997 of 10045 Old 05-31-2020, 07:16 PM
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And the thumb drive must be formatted FAT32.

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post #9998 of 10045 Old 06-01-2020, 06:59 AM
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I have a problem with my AVM 60.

I have it connected to four devices:

Music device (Optical 1) (default on power-up)
PC (HDMI 1, via Ruipro active cables)
Blu-Ray Player (HDMI 2)
PlayStation 4 (HDMI 4)

The problem is, it's presenting as a display device for my PC, no matter whcih input I select.

It's super annoying, because it means if I'm listening to music (say), my PC thinks there's a second display and I keep losing my mouse pointer and windows. I have to unplug the HDMI cable from the back of my PC, then plug it in again if I want to use my PC through my projector.

What's going on?

Main Room: Dynaudio Confidence C1 Platinum, Confidence Centre Platinum, Contour S1.4, Dynaudio S4-C80 x 4, JL Audio Fathom F112; Anthem AVM 60; Emotiva XPA9-Gen 3; Epson EH-TW9400W
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post #9999 of 10045 Old 06-01-2020, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullshred View Post
I have a problem with my AVM 60.



I have it connected to four devices:



Music device (Optical 1) (default on power-up)

PC (HDMI 1, via Ruipro active cables)

Blu-Ray Player (HDMI 2)

PlayStation 4 (HDMI 4)



The problem is, it's presenting as a display device for my PC, no matter whcih input I select.



It's super annoying, because it means if I'm listening to music (say), my PC thinks there's a second display and I keep losing my mouse pointer and windows. I have to unplug the HDMI cable from the back of my PC, then plug it in again if I want to use my PC through my projector.



What's going on?
on PC, try pressing windows key and P at same time..
Then choose top option.. Think it says display 1 or main display only...

Then when you want your anthem to see computer, press windows key and P And choose either display 2 only or extend.. or Mirror..dependkng in what you want to do.

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post #10000 of 10045 Old 06-05-2020, 09:57 AM
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I have one on order due in end of June. Had to post for #10 ,000
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post #10001 of 10045 Old 06-05-2020, 03:31 PM
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Assuming a digital input (e.g., HDMI PCM), then the highest input signal level will be 0dBFS. If the volume control on the AVM60 is set to 0 dB then does that mean the RCA output signal will be 4.2 Vrms (max output level without clipping)? And if so, what happens when I increase the volume (using the AVM60 remote) to +10 dB? Or, is the 0 dB on the volume control set to -10 dB output level and +10 dB is 0 dB output (4.2 Vrms)? I am trying to determine for a 0 dBFS input signal what is the volume level setting using the remote to generate the maximum output, without clipping, from the RCA connectors.



Craig
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post #10002 of 10045 Old 06-05-2020, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigNZ View Post
Assuming a digital input (e.g., HDMI PCM), then the highest input signal level will be 0dBFS. If the volume control on the AVM60 is set to 0 dB then does that mean the RCA output signal will be 4.2 Vrms (max output level without clipping)?
Possible, but not likely. The output trims change the voltage without affecting the displayed volume. 0 dB is not unity gain -- or any particular gain.

Quote:
I am trying to determine for a 0 dBFS input signal what is the volume level setting using the remote to generate the maximum output, without clipping, from the RCA connectors.
Use REW and look at the audio waveform on the oscilloscope.
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post #10003 of 10045 Old 06-05-2020, 09:05 PM
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Unfortunately I do not have an oscilloscope. Can someone who has an AVM60 and an oscilloscope check if when a 0 dBFS test signal is sent to the AVM60 what the voltage output is at the RCA connectors when volume is set at 0 dB and +10 dB and if clipping is occuring.


Maybe another way to ask, will I get clipping if I have the volume above 0dB (e.g., +5dB) when using a PCM input signal.



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post #10004 of 10045 Old 06-07-2020, 11:20 AM
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The reason I am asking about the output level of the AVM60 is because I am currently 'matching' the output of the AVM60 to the input of my amplifier in order to achieve maximum dynamic range in the signal chain. The specifications say the maximum output of the AVM60 out of the RCA connectors is 4.2 Vrms. The input sensitivity of the amplifier is 0.9 Vrms. Using an online calculator it shows I need to insert a 16 dB attenuator at the input of the amplifier to match the two components. What this means then is the maximum output of the AVM60 cannot overload the input to the amplifier. It also means the noise added to the signal when traveling over the interconnect cable between the two components is also reduced by 16 dB resulting in a quieter signal.


But the effect of this is now the audio level coming out of the speakers is also reduced by 16 dB for a given volume setting on the AVM60. So when previously listening to music or a movie at -20 dB on the AVM60 remote, I now have to change that to -4 dB to bring the volume back up to what I am used to listening to. Which means not a lot of room left to increase the volume. Then I discovered I could get an extra 10 dB from the AVM60, but is it clipping the output of the AVM60 when I do this?


Where this is important is in the dynamics of the source signal. I would not listen to music or a movie at full volume, it would be way too loud. But in the music or in the movie audio track there are dynamics which can momentarily produce a spike of 20 dB or so, for example a rim shot on a snare drum or a gun shot. Assuming the source signal is PCM then the source material will accurately reproduce the recording (assuming of course the microphone and mixing stage did not clip the spike). And assuming the AVM60 (with ARC correction turned off) correctly reproduces the spike then a large signal (> 4 Vrms) could come out of the AVM60. If that were input to the amplifier with no attenuation, the spike would clip and sound distorted coming out of the speakers. This is why it is important to match the preamp to the amp, which is done all the time in professional setups. This all assumes the slewing rate of the amplifier can match the AVM60 slew rate.



So back to my question, if a spike in the source jumps the signal to 0 dBFS, what is the output level from the RCA connector if the volume level is set to +10? If it is 4.3 Vrms then it means no clipping on the output and I then have an extra 10 dB to work with out of the speakers.


Craig
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post #10005 of 10045 Old 06-07-2020, 11:36 AM
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Volume Automatically Going to -90

I have my Theater AVM 60 out for repair so am using my family room MRX 720 as a temporary solution. It was working perfectly, no problems whatsoever, when all of a sudden my overall volume went to 0 (-90) on its own. I have Control4 that is the backbone of my entire house.
I’ve reset the receiver, etc. and no matter what I do, volume starts at default-35 and then receives some signal from somewhere to go to -90?? Crazy frustrating.

I was able to stop this behavior by turning off IP Control in General Config Settings. So I presume my MRX 720 is ok. But what to do now, no idea…

I did see that new AVM 60 & MRX 720 Control4 drivers were recently released on 6/3/2020. Not sure if this has anything to do with what I’m experiencing. The new drivers have not been placed in my system yet.

Anyone experience anything like this? Any troubleshooting suggestions?

Thanks!
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post #10006 of 10045 Old 06-08-2020, 07:38 AM
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I have a question for the owners out there. Does the latest version of ARC correct impulse response in the time domain? I see conflicting reports out there whether it does or doesn't. Thanks!
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post #10007 of 10045 Old 06-10-2020, 12:17 PM
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here it goes. I have an AVM-60 that works brilliantly with my Sony 800M2 4k blu ray, Apple tv 4 and even my Apple tv 1 on to my C7 LG OLED, so I tried to hook up my old HDDVD player, Toshiba HD-A1SN to my processor and got picture (1080I) but no sound. Checked all of the menu's in both the player and processor, went back and forth to "Bitstream" hdmi to "PCM" hdmi to the "auto" setting, no dice. Then decided to go directly to the tv, still the same, picture but no sound. Swapped cables, nothing. Then hooked it back up to my bedroom tv, an old Panasonic plasma TH50-PZ750U and, voila, the picture and sound works fine. Can somebody help?
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post #10008 of 10045 Old 06-11-2020, 01:30 PM
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Hi, I was hoping for some advice on using Arc Genesis with my Boston Acoustics VPS210 subwoofer.

Model: VPS 210 (subwoofer)
Drivers: (1) 10" OCCM woofer, (1) 10" OCCM passive radiator
Frequency range: 22Hz-150Hz
Amplifier power: 500 watts
Dimensions (WxHxD): 13.8" x 15" x 21.25"
Weight: 62 lbs
Warranty: woofer: 5 years; electronics: 1 year
Price: $1700

Before running Arc, should I put the volume/level to max as well as the Cutoff to 150Hz?


***nevermind, called Anthem and got my answer in under a minute. THey are awesome.
cutoff to max (or bypass if there is a setting on the sub) and volume to 50%

Last edited by lessblue; 06-11-2020 at 01:36 PM.
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post #10009 of 10045 Old 06-12-2020, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick granato View Post
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here it goes. I have an AVM-60 that works brilliantly with my Sony 800M2 4k blu ray, Apple tv 4 and even my Apple tv 1 on to my C7 LG OLED, so I tried to hook up my old HDDVD player, Toshiba HD-A1SN to my processor and got picture (1080I) but no sound. Checked all of the menu's in both the player and processor, went back and forth to "Bitstream" hdmi to "PCM" hdmi to the "auto" setting, no dice. Then decided to go directly to the tv, still the same, picture but no sound. Swapped cables, nothing. Then hooked it back up to my bedroom tv, an old Panasonic plasma TH50-PZ750U and, voila, the picture and sound works fine. Can somebody help?
I cannot solve the problem, but when the TV is connected, it tells the player it is compatible with Dolby Digital, as opposed to TrueHD. If you connect the player's S/PDIF output to the AVM 60, you ought to at least get 5.1 lossy audio and can watch the movie.

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win10 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
JVC RS520; Stewart Cima Neve screen 125" diag 2.35:1, MLP at 115"
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post #10010 of 10045 Old 06-13-2020, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
I cannot solve the problem, but when the TV is connected, it tells the player it is compatible with Dolby Digital, as opposed to TrueHD. If you connect the player's S/PDIF output to the AVM 60, you ought to at least get 5.1 lossy audio and can watch the movie.
Thanks, I will try that.
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post #10011 of 10045 Old 06-13-2020, 01:38 PM
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Thanks Roger, hooked up today to the coax input, worked like a charm. Not lossless, but sounds good nonetheless.
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post #10012 of 10045 Old 06-13-2020, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erick granato View Post
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here it goes. I have an AVM-60 that works brilliantly with my Sony 800M2 4k blu ray, Apple tv 4 and even my Apple tv 1 on to my C7 LG OLED, so I tried to hook up my old HDDVD player, Toshiba HD-A1SN to my processor and got picture (1080I) but no sound. Checked all of the menu's in both the player and processor, went back and forth to "Bitstream" hdmi to "PCM" hdmi to the "auto" setting, no dice. Then decided to go directly to the tv, still the same, picture but no sound. Swapped cables, nothing. Then hooked it back up to my bedroom tv, an old Panasonic plasma TH50-PZ750U and, voila, the picture and sound works fine. Can somebody help?
It seems as if you have a workable solution to getting your Toshiba DVD player to work. However, if you want to try something else, in January of last year I posted a similar problem with my Toshiba HD-XA2 and my AVM 60. It turned out that it didn't work with any of the "normal" rear HDMI ports, but did work with the front HDMI port that, coincidentally, is also MHL. Since, rear port was also MHL, I tried that and it also worked. I know MHL is not HDMI, but perhaps those ports also use a simpler handshaking protocol that works with players like our Toshibas that predate much of the modern HDMI standards.

SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, HDFury Integral 2, Panasonic DP-UB820, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Dual Velodyne DD15 Subwoofers.
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post #10013 of 10045 Old 06-14-2020, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigNZ View Post
The reason I am asking about the output level of the AVM60 is because I am currently 'matching' the output of the AVM60 to the input of my amplifier in order to achieve maximum dynamic range in the signal chain. The specifications say the maximum output of the AVM60 out of the RCA connectors is 4.2 Vrms. The input sensitivity of the amplifier is 0.9 Vrms. Using an online calculator it shows I need to insert a 16 dB attenuator at the input of the amplifier to match the two components. What this means then is the maximum output of the AVM60 cannot overload the input to the amplifier. It also means the noise added to the signal when traveling over the interconnect cable between the two components is also reduced by 16 dB resulting in a quieter signal.


But the effect of this is now the audio level coming out of the speakers is also reduced by 16 dB for a given volume setting on the AVM60. So when previously listening to music or a movie at -20 dB on the AVM60 remote, I now have to change that to -4 dB to bring the volume back up to what I am used to listening to. Which means not a lot of room left to increase the volume. Then I discovered I could get an extra 10 dB from the AVM60, but is it clipping the output of the AVM60 when I do this?


Where this is important is in the dynamics of the source signal. I would not listen to music or a movie at full volume, it would be way too loud. But in the music or in the movie audio track there are dynamics which can momentarily produce a spike of 20 dB or so, for example a rim shot on a snare drum or a gun shot. Assuming the source signal is PCM then the source material will accurately reproduce the recording (assuming of course the microphone and mixing stage did not clip the spike). And assuming the AVM60 (with ARC correction turned off) correctly reproduces the spike then a large signal (> 4 Vrms) could come out of the AVM60. If that were input to the amplifier with no attenuation, the spike would clip and sound distorted coming out of the speakers. This is why it is important to match the preamp to the amp, which is done all the time in professional setups. This all assumes the slewing rate of the amplifier can match the AVM60 slew rate.



So back to my question, if a spike in the source jumps the signal to 0 dBFS, what is the output level from the RCA connector if the volume level is set to +10? If it is 4.3 Vrms then it means no clipping on the output and I then have an extra 10 dB to work with out of the speakers.


Craig
Referring to my earlier posting above, I decided to get an oscilloscope and make the measurements myself. The scope hass two channels so I put CH1 on the output of the Right Channel RCA connector and CH2 on the output of the Left Channel RCA connector. I then used REW on my PC to create a 1 kHz sine wave signal at -0.1 dBFS level. The signal was passed over an HDMI cable to the input of the AVM60. With room correction turned off and the volume control set to 0 dB I measured the voltage as 2.96 Vrms on CH1 and 3.06 Vrms on CH2. This is interesting because an earlier post on this forum stated the output of the RCA connectors was max 4.2 Vrms. But, if I measured 3.0 Vrms (average of both channels) then the "Peak" voltage is 4.3 V. So I am thinking the value given on the post should have been "Peak" voltage, not "Vrms". This then matches what I measured on my system.


Next, given the maximum signal input to the AVM60 (0 dBFS) what happens to the output of the RCA signal if I now increase the volume on the AVM60 from 0 dB to +10 dB. Well, it clips .. no surprise there. In fact, any positive volume level results in a clipped signal going to the amplifier. So as long as your input signal is less than -10 dBFS then you can push the volume on the AVM60 past 0 dB. Not being able to determine this while watching a movie or listening to music I would recommend not to raise the volume of the AVM60 above 0 dB. This can be done in the AVM60 setup screen (General settings).


It is also interesting that to bring the output of the AVM60 at maximum volume (3.0 Vrms) down to the input of my amplifier (0.9 Vrms) that I need an attenuation of 10 dB at the amplifier. If I do this then I accomplish two things: a) there is no way the AVM60 output can then overdrive the input of the amplifier, meaning no clipping of the audio to the speakers, and b) I reduce the noise added to the signal from the AVM60 to the amplifier by 10 dB, which provides a much cleaner signal.


Also, there is a lot of articles on the Net about whether the signal from the preamp should be attenuated to match the amplifier input. The general consensus is to set the output of the preamplifier at 10 dB above the input sensitivity of the amplifier, referred to as "10 dB overlap". This "overlap" is a compromise between high signal-to-noise at low listening levels and low distortion at high listening levels. This appears to be what Anthem did with the AVM60. But what is missing in the decision is "transients", e.g., a gun shot when watching a movie, or a cymbal crash when listening to a orchestra. If the transient exceeds the overlap boundary then it will clip and you will get distortion. To me, the best dynamic range is achieved when the "overlap" is set to 0, meaning the output of the preamp is attenuated to match the input sensitivity of the amplifier.


Craig
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post #10014 of 10045 Old 06-14-2020, 10:16 AM
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It seems as if you have a workable solution to getting your Toshiba DVD player to work. However, if you want to try something else, in January of last year I posted a similar problem with my Toshiba HD-XA2 and my AVM 60. It turned out that it didn't work with any of the "normal" rear HDMI ports, but did work with the front HDMI port that, coincidentally, is also MHL. Since, rear port was also MHL, I tried that and it also worked. I know MHL is not HDMI, but perhaps those ports also use a simpler handshaking protocol that works with players like our Toshibas that predate much of the modern HDMI standards.
I will try that next tine. Thanks. Put the machine away again for now, just running out of things to watch so I pulled out a few old HDDVD's.
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post #10015 of 10045 Old 06-15-2020, 09:54 AM
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Upgrade to AVM 60?

I'm looking to replace my Marantz AV7005 so that I can pass my 4K sources through the preamp rather than direct to my LG C8. I'm looking at a Marantz AV7705, Emotiva WMC-2 or the AVM60. With the AVM 60 being the oldest model of the 3 is it worth purchasing now or waiting till a new model with HDMI 2.1 is released. For what it's worth I have no plans for a 8K TV in the near future.

My speakers are B&W Nautilus 804 and AMP is a Rotel RMB-1095.

Thanks.
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post #10016 of 10045 Old 06-15-2020, 10:30 AM
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I'm looking to replace my Marantz AV7005 so that I can pass my 4K sources through the preamp rather than direct to my LG C8. I'm looking at a Marantz AV7705, Emotiva WMC-2 or the AVM60. With the AVM 60 being the oldest model of the 3 is it worth purchasing now or waiting till a new model with HDMI 2.1 is released. For what it's worth I have no plans for a 8K TV in the near future.

My speakers are B&W Nautilus 804 and AMP is a Rotel RMB-1095.

Thanks.
Well if you're not getting a 8k tv and you are not a rabid gamer, then go ahead. Try to get it on sale, Anthem usually has a 20% sale a couple times a year. I have mine coupled with a Rotel RMB1555 and PSB Stratus speakers and am very happy.
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post #10017 of 10045 Old 06-15-2020, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by volfan615 View Post
I'm looking to replace my Marantz AV7005 so that I can pass my 4K sources through the preamp rather than direct to my LG C8. I'm looking at a Marantz AV7705, Emotiva WMC-2 or the AVM60. With the AVM 60 being the oldest model of the 3 is it worth purchasing now or waiting till a new model with HDMI 2.1 is released. For what it's worth I have no plans for a 8K TV in the near future.

My speakers are B&W Nautilus 804 and AMP is a Rotel RMB-1095.

Thanks.
I replaced my XMC-1 with the AVM60 back in November. Couldn't be happier about the choice. I was waiting out the XMC-2, but they are on the struggle bus, and really don't seem to know where their stop is. The XMC-1 was never free of quirks, nor was the UMC-200 I owned prior.

The AVM60 is only 11 channels vs 16 in the Emo. Not a factor for me.
The AVM60 is only HDMI 2.0 vs ??? in the Emo. 2.1 is also not a factor for me, as I don't plan on jumping in early on 8K, and I play all my content off a PLEX server, so HDCP protocol isn't a factor either.

Those are honestly the two main differences I see. I guess Dirac vs ARC. I spent 2 years futzing with Dirac, and ended up happy with the sound. I matched the quality with a single run of ARC, no futzing.

I will never own another Emotiva processor. Not due to sound quality (and my amps are still Emo), but development quality and the constant finger pointing they do when you present an issue. Must be your cables/internet/source device/dietary fiber/whatever but it's never an Emotiva problem no how no way.

I like the sonic signature of Marantz processors, but I'm not an Audyssey fan.

The choice is yours, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Anthem. The biggest decision to make is to buy now or wait for a new line to materialize (could be next week, could be next year...or more)
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post #10018 of 10045 Old 06-15-2020, 02:16 PM
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Thrillcat -
Don't blame you for never wanting another Emotiva processor again. I got the UMC-1 when first came out, and constant issues and delays left a bad taste in my mouth. What pushed me over the edge was when Emotiva decided to start the 30 day return window with the Xth firmware update - which still didn't resolve several issues - without notifying customers. I called and caught Big Dan in several half-truths. Got my RMA and sent it back before the window closed.
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post #10019 of 10045 Old 06-18-2020, 05:01 AM
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Hi guys,
thinking of purchasing the AVM 60, want to know does it support EARC?


Thanks.

55" LG B6 - Nad T758 V3- Anthem MCA 225- B&W 600 s2 speaker series - Stereo Rel S2
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post #10020 of 10045 Old 06-18-2020, 07:52 AM
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Hi guys,

thinking of purchasing the AVM 60, want to know does it support EARC?





Thanks.
Nope. Nor will it via hardware update. Anthem told me we would have to buy the next gen processor for EARC support.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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