*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 133 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3961 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Thanks.

I have an older SACD player which doesn't have HDMI outputs. May need to pick up something cheap with HDMI output for SACD and DVDA.
Sony sells a relatively inexpensive Blu-ray player which can also play SACDs (BDP-S6500, ~$100) , but players which can also play DVD-A discs are quite a bit more expensive (e.g. Oppo BDP 103, ~$500).

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post #3962 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by freaklike View Post
I have a SR7010, Monitor Audio Silver 6 Fronts, Silver Centre, Bronze FX for rear and 2x CT165 as ceiling height speakers (top middle for Atmos) & a Klipsch R-112SW sub.

After running initial Audyssey Calibration (all speakers excluding the sub) the sound was "perfect" with Dynamic Eq either on or off.
I received the sub yesterday and re ran the Audyssey Calibration with the sub and now the centre speaker sound is crackling (voices and higher notes) with Dynamic Eq off and with it on it seems +- 95% better.

I have reset the amp and re run Audyssey Calibration another 4 times without any improvement.
I have tried various sources as well as my previous centre speaker and it remains the same (crackling noise) with Dynamic Eq off.

Any advice/assistance would be appreciated.
Check your crossover settings, especially for the centre speaker and fronts. try to set a crossover of 80Hz or even higher.
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post #3963 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 01:08 PM
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I called Marantz and they told me B&W speakers need a lot of juice and that the 1606 isn't enough to properly power the 5 ohm 686 s2 and center channel plus the other 4 I'm gonna use for 7.1 .... hmmm

Is this right? the B&W rep told the 1606 was the PERFECT fit for my 686's
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post #3964 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RicFlair View Post
I called Marantz and they told me B&W speakers need a lot of juice and that the 1606 isn't enough to properly power the 5 ohm 686 s2 and center channel plus the other 4 I'm gonna use for 7.1 .... hmmm

Is this right? the B&W rep told the 1606 was the PERFECT fit for my 686's
How large is your room? At what volume level do you like to listen to TV? What about movies? The NR1606 is likely to be fine at moderate listening levels, but may struggle at louder volume levels especially in a larger room. No doubt with 5ohm speakers, the SR5010 would be the better choice.
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post #3965 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
How large is your room? At what volume level do you like to listen to TV? What about movies? The NR1606 is likely to be fine at moderate listening levels, but may struggle at louder volume levels especially in a larger room. No doubt with 5ohm speakers, the SR5010 would be the better choice.
Anything else that work with 5ohm? how can I tell if it does? would the VSX- 90? and in your opinion is DSX worth buying an AVR for ?
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post #3966 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
Sony sells a relatively inexpensive Blu-ray player which can also play SACDs (BDP-S6500, ~$100) , but players which can also play DVD-A discs are quite a bit more expensive (e.g. Oppo BDP 103, ~$500).
Thanks.
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post #3967 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 03:56 PM
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I received my SR6010 last week,got it set up and doing some fine tuning.Gotta say I think it's awesome. I'm sure it will take some time and a few posts here to get it sorted,but I have my first question,how do I get the porthole LED to come on?
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post #3968 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by stevew24963 View Post
I received my SR6010 last week,got it set up and doing some fine tuning.Gotta say I think it's awesome. I'm sure it will take some time and a few posts here to get it sorted,but I have my first question,how do I get the porthole LED to come on?
The porthole should always be on unless you have PURE DIRECT mode selected in which case the display would turn off after 5 seconds.
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post #3969 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 08:07 PM
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waht is best?

i have a question for the forum. i have the sr7010, my set up right now is 7.2.2 (9.1 in amp assign). all my channels are taken. i want to add a second pair of dolby atmos speakers rated at 100 watts. i want to know if i get the marantz mm7055 (5 channels)which is 140 watts per channel at 2 channel driven if i could put on the mm7055 the front l and r, the center and 2 of my surround speakers and leave on the sr 7010 the surround back and the 2 sets of dolby as height 1 and 2 as dolby atmos. Could this be possible? also the marantz mm7055 i see is like 1,200.00 i think better than the mm7025 which is only 2 channels and cost like 800.00 which is too much just for 2 dolby speakers. also i was advice that the outlaw 5000 is almost half the price and is a 5 channel pa which is 120 watts all channel driven instead of the sr7010 which is 125 watts at 2 channel driven. also for the price of the marant mm7055 i could get the outlaw 7125 which is 7 channels watts 125 watts all channel driven. what will be the best option if i want more power and have that extra set of dolby atmos so i could do the 7.2.4 (11 channels) any help? and how will i do the configuration so the dolby stays on the sr 7010?
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post #3970 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dannycruz23 View Post
i have a question for the forum. i have the sr7010, my set up right now is 7.2.2 (9.1 in amp assign). all my channels are taken. i want to add a second pair of dolby atmos speakers rated at 100 watts. i want to know if i get the marantz mm7055 (5 channels)which is 140 watts per channel at 2 channel driven if i could put on the mm7055 the front l and r, the center and 2 of my surround speakers and leave on the sr 7010 the surround back and the 2 sets of dolby as height 1 and 2 as dolby atmos. Could this be possible? also the marantz mm7055 i see is like 1,200.00 i think better than the mm7025 which is only 2 channels and cost like 800.00 which is too much just for 2 dolby speakers. also i was advice that the outlaw 5000 is almost half the price and is a 5 channel pa which is 120 watts all channel driven instead of the sr7010 which is 125 watts at 2 channel driven. also for the price of the marant mm7055 i could get the outlaw 7125 which is 7 channels watts 125 watts all channel driven. what will be the best option if i want more power and have that extra set of dolby atmos so i could do the 7.2.4 (11 channels) any help? and how will i do the configuration so the dolby stays on the sr 7010?
Item in bold refers. First thing is to check the sensitivity of your existing speakers, the levels and distances as reported by Audyssey during the auto-calibration - what are they? How loud do you normally listen at?

What type of 7.1.4 Atmos speaker configuration you're looking for and what is your current ceiling speakers configured as in the 7.2.2 set-up?

Are you planning to add the 2nd pair as an up-firing Dolby enabled speakers that bounce the sound off the ceiling? If so, there needs to be a speaker gap between adjacent ceiling speaker pairs. I.e. Top Front + Top Rear (where Top Middle is the speaker gap).

Generally if you want to have additional headroom on the SR-7010, the idea is to off load the front sound stage (LCR) to a more beeifer external amp and power the rest of the speakers using the internal amp of the SR-7010. Is this what you're aiming for?

If you have fairly efficient speakers, employ bass management, don't listen too loud and/or the physical distance between the Main Listening Position (MLP) and the front sound stage isn't too far, then you might want to consider using a smaller 2-channel external amp for the least demanding speakers which happens to be the Height 2 speakers. Appears this isn't what you're aiming for?

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post #3971 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stevew24963 View Post
I received my SR6010 last week,got it set up and doing some fine tuning.Gotta say I think it's awesome. I'm sure it will take some time and a few posts here to get it sorted,but I have my first question,how do I get the porthole LED to come on?
Is it plugged in?
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post #3972 of 12311 Old 03-25-2016, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Item in bold refers. First thing is to check the sensitivity of your existing speakers, the levels and distances as reported by Audyssey during the auto-calibration - what are they? How loud do you normally listen at?

What type of 7.1.4 Atmos speaker configuration you're looking for and what is your current ceiling speakers configured as in the 7.2.2 set-up?

Are you planning to add the 2nd pair as an up-firing Dolby enabled speakers that bounce the sound off the ceiling? If so, there needs to be a speaker gap between adjacent ceiling speaker pairs. I.e. Top Front + Top Rear (where Top Middle is the speaker gap).

Generally if you want to have additional headroom on the SR-7010, the idea is to off load the front sound stage (LCR) to a more beeifer external amp and power the rest of the speakers using the internal amp of the SR-7010. Is this what you're aiming for?

If you have fairly efficient speakers, employ bass management, don't listen too loud and/or the physical distance between the Main Listening Position (MLP) and the front sound stage isn't too far, then you might want to consider using a smaller 2-channel external amp for the least demanding speakers which happens to be the Height 2 speakers. Appears this isn't what you're aiming for?
am planning to use speaker configuration on ammp assign of 11.1 (7.2.4). in order to do that i need an external pa to add those 2 extra dolby atmos speakers. but i dont want to put them on the external pa, i rather put another speaker to it and keep the dolby on the receiver. i was planning to get a stereo pa and put the 2 front speakers but i was advice that the 2 front should be powered with the center at the same pa so that is why i am considering a pa of 5 channels. i rather put more power to front and center instead of putting the most power for just the dolby atmos speakers.
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post #3973 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 04:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dannycruz23 View Post
am planning to use speaker configuration on ammp assign of 11.1 (7.2.4). in order to do that i need an external pa to add those 2 extra dolby atmos speakers. but i dont want to put them on the external pa, i rather put another speaker to it and keep the dolby on the receiver. i was planning to get a stereo pa and put the 2 front speakers but i was advice that the 2 front should be powered with the center at the same pa so that is why i am considering a pa of 5 channels. i rather put more power to front and center instead of putting the most power for just the dolby atmos speakers.
Who ever advised you in the bold item may not be aware of your speakers, the room and listening levels. If you can get away with just a 2-channel external amp for the front left and front right speakers, it may still work out for you as the internal amps can power the rest of the speakers in a 7.2.4 Atmos configuration.

What are your speakers (make and model number) details? What was the reported levels and distances that Audyssey auto-calibration reported? Its easy to check and report back the numbers.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #3974 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Who ever advised you in the bold item may not be aware of your speakers, the room and listening levels. If you can get away with just a 2-channel external amp for the front left and front right speakers, it may still work out for you as the internal amps can power the rest of the speakers in a 7.2.4 Atmos configuration.

What are your speakers (make and model number) details? What was the reported levels and distances that Audyssey auto-calibration reported? Its easy to check and report back the numbers.
On this topic of using an external amp with the SR7010, quick question to the group:

I have a 7.1.2 configuration all running from my SR7010 - so each channel is getting let's say "X watts" per channel. If I add a 2-channel external amp to power my L and R, would the remaining channels that are being driven by the SR7010 obtain a higher watt per channel? Say "2X watts per channel" ?
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post #3975 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 08:24 AM
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On this topic of using an external amp with the SR7010, quick question to the group:

I have a 7.1.2 configuration all running from my SR7010 - so each channel is getting let's say "X watts" per channel. If I add a 2-channel external amp to power my L and R, would the remaining channels that are being driven by the SR7010 obtain a higher watt per channel? Say "2X watts per channel" ?
The total power that can be supplied by the receiver's internal amplifiers is limited by the receiver's single internal power supply. If you use an external amplifier, which has its own power supply, the power which would have been used to drive those speakers is now available to drive the remaining speakers. In general this doesn't make much of a difference, though, because people usually listen at relatively low sound levels, requiring much less power than the receiver can provide on its own. External amplifiers help the most if you have inefficient speakers, a large room and like to listen at high sound levels.

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post #3976 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 09:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by twinturbo11 View Post
On this topic of using an external amp with the SR7010, quick question to the group:

I have a 7.1.2 configuration all running from my SR7010 - so each channel is getting let's say "X watts" per channel. If I add a 2-channel external amp to power my L and R, would the remaining channels that are being driven by the SR7010 obtain a higher watt per channel? Say "2X watts per channel" ?

Post number 6
on the first page of this thread has some bench test numbers on the SR-7010 internal amp power capabilities courtesy of Sound and Vision, who had done the tests.

With all seven channels driven, one is looking just above 83W per channel. Compared to the 2-channels driven in "solid" stereo mode (128W/channel) the maths work out to be that when 7 channels are driven simultaneously the power output per channel drops to just under 65% of the the 2-channel mode. There is no all 9 channel driven test, but wouldn't be surprised if the per channel power output drops below 80W.

Not all channels are actively used during playback of a movie soundtrack. I.e. simultaneously used or all channels driven.

For instance the ceiling speakers are silent most of the time during an Atmos playback. A test can be carried out in a home setting by playing back an active Atmos movie (such as Transformers: Age of Extinction) and by disconnecting all the floor level speakers. Thus no sound can come from the floor level speakers and only the ceiling speakers. AVS member Keith Barnes did this test and was surprised that the ceiling speakers (Keith had all four installed in a 7.1.4 Atmos speaker configuration) were silent for majority of the movie. When the action on the screen did pick up, Keith was disappointed to find that the ceiling speakers made just ambient sound. One can easily replicate the test and verify this.

Having said the above, when the floor and ceiling speakers are combined and used during an Atmos movie playback, there an improvement in the overall sound field with a greater depth and immersion compared to say just the floor level speakers. So Atmos does work, but not as one expected it would after all the hard work of installing the ceiling speakers. There is some psycho acoustics involved in the object audio decoding and playback with the fixed position speakers.

So going back to your question of your 7.1.2 Atmos setup and powering the front L/R with an external amp. Would there be more available power to the remaining 7 speakers? The short answer is yes. You've got some extra headroom. How much headroom is a bit harder to answer as the available power is not evenly distributed to each speaker during playback. For instance the center speaker which carries the important dialogue (voice reproduction) in the movie, it is still demanding a lot more power than a pair of ceiling speakers. I.e. one channel is using much more power than two channels.

A lot depends on your speaker sensitivity, the physical distance between the speaker and Main Listening Position (MLP), where the speakers are positioned relative to the room boundaries, implementation of bass management (or not) and associated crossover frequency. The most important part is the desired listening volume level.

Recall that a +3dB increase in SPL means doubling the power requirement. For most people, a +3dB increase in SPL is just notable from the previous listening condition.

A +10dB increase in SPL means increasing the power demand by 10X! Because human hearing is log rhythmic, making something sound twice as loud as before means a +10dB increase in SPL. Problems generally occur at the amp section of the receiver when that last +10dB in volume level is reached. The amp section is quite happy supplying say 20W of clean/low distortion power to the speaker, when the Main Volume (MV) is turned up +10dB, it suddenly needs to provide 200W, which is going to exceed the amp current carrying capacity and cause the output to distort. Hence the general recommendation to place a volume limit within the receiver that will not exceed reference level of 105dB peak when the MV is set to 0dB. Most will find reference level to be uncomfortably loud and will listen well below 0dB.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.

Last edited by steveting99; 03-30-2016 at 07:55 PM. Reason: typo and additional text
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post #3977 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 10:38 AM
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Ok guys I've been looking through the forums and searching but I can't seem to find anyone else with this issue and a fix. I've seen people with AirPlay glitches but not like this. Anything with Internet radio glitches video and audio, then AirPlay is the same thing x5 any advice or point me in the right direction would be awesome.




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post #3978 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 10:48 AM
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Ok guys I've been looking through the forums and searching but I can't seem to find anyone else with this issue and a fix. I've seen people with AirPlay glitches but not like this. Anything with Internet radio glitches video and audio, then AirPlay is the same thing x5 any advice or point me in the right direction would be awesome.

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Could be a defective network card. Is this a new unit or refurbished? Did this issue just present or has it always done this?

First step in troubleshooting is a "soft reset" (power off and unplug power cord for 10 minutes). If still no joy, refer to page 1 and do a "network reset" as described for your particular model, although you'll want to first SAVE your config file to a PC as all settings will be restored to original factory defaults.
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post #3979 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Could be a defective network card. Is this a new unit or refurbished? Did this issue just present or has it always done this?



First step in troubleshooting is a "soft reset" (power off and unplug power cord for 10 minutes). If still no joy, refer to page 1 and do a "network reset" as described for your particular model, although you'll want to first SAVE your config file to a PC as all settings will be restored to original factory defaults.


Tried the soft reset, network reset here I come.....thanks!
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post #3980 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post

Post number 6
on the first page of this thread has some bench test numbers on the SR-7010 internal amp power capabilities courtesy of Sound and Vision, who had done the tests.

With all seven channels driven, one is looking just above 83W per channel. There is no all 9 channel driven test, but wouldn't be surprised if the per channel power output drops below 80W.

Not all channels are actively used during playback of a movie soundtrack. I.e. simultaneously used or all channels driven.

For instance the ceiling speakers are silent most of the time during an Atmos playback. A test can be carried out in a home setting by playing back an active Atmos movie (such as Transformers: Age of Extinction) and by disconnecting all the floor level speakers. Thus no sound can come from the floor level speakers and only the ceiling speakers. AVS member Keith Barnes did this test and was surprised that the ceiling speakers (Keith had all four installed in a 7.1.4 Atmos speaker configuration) were silent for majority of the movie. When the action on the screen did pick up, Keith was disappointed to find that the ceiling speakers made just ambient sound. One can easily replicate the test and verify this.

Having said the above, when the floor and ceiling speakers are combined and used during an Atmos movie playback, there an improvement in the overall sound field with a greater depth and immersion compared to say just the floor level speakers. So Atmos does work, but not as one expected it would after all the hard work of installing the ceiling speakers. There is some psycho acoustics involved in the object audio decoding and playback with the fixed position speakers.

So going back to your question of your 7.1.2 Atmos setup and powering the front L/R with an external amp. Would there be more available power to the remaining 7 speakers? The short answer is yes. You've got some extra headroom. How much headroom is a bit harder to answer as the available power is not evenly distributed to each speaker during playback. For instance the center speaker which carries the important dialogue (voice reproduction) in the movie, it is still demanding a lot more power than a pair of ceiling speakers. I.e. one channel is using much more power than two channels.

A lot depends on your speaker sensitivity, the physical distance between the speaker and Main Listening Position (MLP), where the speakers are positioned relative to the room boundaries, implementation of bass management (or not) and associated crossover frequency. The most important part is the desired listening volume level.

Remember that a +3dB increase in SPL means doubling the power requirement. For most people, a +3dB increase in SPL is just notable from the previous listening condition.

A +10dB increase in SPL means increasing the power demand by 10X! Because human hearing is log rhythmic, making something sound twice as loud as before means a +10dB increase in SPL. This is where problems generally occur at the amp section of the receiver. Hence the general recommendation to place a volume limit within the receiver that will not exceed reference level of 105dB peak when the Main Volume (MV) is set to 0dB. Most will find reference level to be uncomfortably loud and will listen well below 0dB.
Thank you so much steveting99 for the very comprehensive explanation !
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post #3981 of 12311 Old 03-26-2016, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by freaklike View Post
I have a SR7010, Monitor Audio Silver 6 Fronts, Silver Centre, Bronze FX for rear and 2x CT165 as ceiling height speakers (top middle for Atmos) & a Klipsch R-112SW sub.

After running initial Audyssey Calibration (all speakers excluding the sub) the sound was "perfect" with Dynamic Eq either on or off.
I received the sub yesterday and re ran the Audyssey Calibration with the sub and now the centre speaker sound is crackling (voices and higher notes) with Dynamic Eq off and with it on it seems +- 95% better.

I have reset the amp and re run Audyssey Calibration another 4 times without any improvement.
I have tried various sources as well as my previous centre speaker and it remains the same (crackling noise) with Dynamic Eq off.

Any advice/assistance would be appreciated.
Ok, after a lot of fiddling I think I kind of figured it out.

When I installed the sub and ran calibration, I also changed Amp Assign to 9.1 as I have another set of CT165's on order for a 5.1.4 setup.
I then only chose 2 height speakers as I currently only have 2 connected. Once I do this, the centre speaker immediately sounds VERY crackly/distorted (voices & high notes).

If I choose 11.1 and also select only 2 height speakers (for now), then it sounds perfect. Same if I choose 11.1 with 4 heights or even 9.1 with 4 heights.
If I choose any of the 7.1 options, to at least be able to select 2 hight speakers, it also sounds perfect.

Seems to only be an issue on 9.1 when selecting only 2 height speakers.
Perhaps it is just an issue with mine?
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post #3982 of 12311 Old 03-27-2016, 04:31 PM
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Question Dialog problems SR7010

Evening peeps
Finally got my new Marantz SR7010 like 2 weeks ago and is running a 5.1.2 setup with B&W speakers and elac for atmos.
After the setup and calibration everything was fine and the Atmos demo bluray sounded awesome, very happy with that

Now a few days ago one of my tv channels (Tivo) started to act up meaning the dialog was almost gone, like you turned down the centre volume so you can barely hear it.
Today I tried a Bluray movie (Inception, none atmos) and it was the same, barely no volume, then all the sudden the volume was there for a few secs/mins then almost at 0 again.
After that I tried one of my HD channels from Tivo and the same thing happens there.

Tried Netflix from my Samsung UE65F9000 and no problems with the sound, note tho that the sound is via optical cable from the Samsung to SR7010 while the rest, bluray, tivo etc is via hdmi.

Does anyone have any clue why this is happening, it just started out of nowhere and I can't find anything in the settings about it.

Any help would be much appreciated and sorry for any weird spelling, english isn't my native language

All the best
Jimi

Last edited by Jimirix; 03-27-2016 at 04:36 PM.
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post #3983 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 04:23 AM
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I've been using the 6010 since December. This model does NOT have a porthole blue light. The porthole light is available in the 7010 and higher models.
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post #3984 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 04:36 AM
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Can anyone else confirm the post above regarding the porthole blue light?
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post #3985 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 06:23 AM
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Hi,

I can't tell if Dolby Surround Conversion and Neural:X are working, can you help?

I don't hear any difference when I switch from stereo to Dolby Surround Conversion or Neural:X. My Marantz 7010 is connected to the GTX980 video card in my windows 7 pc, and the pc is set for 7.1 speakers.

Does the fact that the pc is set to 7.1 make the pc always send 7.1 channels to the receiver even if only 2 channels have content, the result being Dolby Surround Conversion and Neural:X will always think all 7.1 channels are engaged and will therefore never apply their surround algorithms?

I think this may be the case because anytime I hit info on the receiver I see all 7.1 channels from source lit up, even if the video I'm playing is only stereo.

Does anyone know if this is preventing the surround conversion from working, and if so is there any way to resolve this other than manually changing the pc speaker settings from 7.1 channels to 2 channels when playing stereo content (which seems like a major pita)?

Thanks for your help!
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post #3986 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael79 View Post
Hi,

I can't tell if Dolby Surround Conversion and Neural:X are working, can you help?

I don't hear any difference when I switch from stereo to Dolby Surround Conversion or Neural:X. My Marantz 7010 is connected to the GTX980 video card in my windows 7 pc, and the pc is set for 7.1 speakers.

Does the fact that the pc is set to 7.1 make the pc always send 7.1 channels to the receiver even if only 2 channels have content, the result being Dolby Surround Conversion and Neural:X will always think all 7.1 channels are engaged and will therefore never apply their surround algorithms?

I think this may be the case because anytime I hit info on the receiver I see all 7.1 channels from source lit up, even if the video I'm playing is only stereo.

Does anyone know if this is preventing the surround conversion from working, and if so is there any way to resolve this other than manually changing the pc speaker settings from 7.1 channels to 2 channels when playing stereo content (which seems like a major pita)?

Thanks for your help!

Yup. If the AVR believes it's receiving a 7CH signal and you only have a 7.1 setup, there is nothing to simulate even though only a 2CH stereo audio is being passed. Only work around is set the PC to 2CH or if it has another audio output (eg. 3.5mm) you could also connect that to a 3.5mm --> RCA converter and connect as a separate audio source.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 03-28-2016 at 09:23 AM.
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post #3987 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Can anyone else confirm the post above regarding the porthole blue light?
Are you talking about the glowing blue ring around the porthole on the 7010?

(The 5010 and 6010 don't have the blue LEDs to light up the porthole ring.)
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Primary (2.1): Thiel CS 1.2 / Velodyne F1000 sub / Adcom GFA-555 Mk2 / Rotel 970BX / Sony CDP-CA9 ES
Secondary (5.1): Paradigm Mini-Monitor v.3 / CC270 v.3 center / ADP-170 v.2 surrounds /
SVS SB1000 sub / Marantz SR-6010 / AppleTV + Win7 PC / BenQ BL3200PT
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post #3988 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimirix View Post
Evening peeps
Finally got my new Marantz SR7010 like 2 weeks ago and is running a 5.1.2 setup with B&W speakers and elac for atmos.
After the setup and calibration everything was fine and the Atmos demo bluray sounded awesome, very happy with that

Now a few days ago one of my tv channels (Tivo) started to act up meaning the dialog was almost gone, like you turned down the centre volume so you can barely hear it.
Today I tried a Bluray movie (Inception, none atmos) and it was the same, barely no volume, then all the sudden the volume was there for a few secs/mins then almost at 0 again.
After that I tried one of my HD channels from Tivo and the same thing happens there.

Tried Netflix from my Samsung UE65F9000 and no problems with the sound, note tho that the sound is via optical cable from the Samsung to SR7010 while the rest, bluray, tivo etc is via hdmi.

Does anyone have any clue why this is happening, it just started out of nowhere and I can't find anything in the settings about it.

Any help would be much appreciated and sorry for any weird spelling, english isn't my native language

All the best
Jimi
Audio related problems with the TiVo is a known problem, however, not necessarily with a BDP unless it is an older model BDP. Try doing a "soft reset" by powering off and unplugging the AVR for 10 minutes and see if that resolves the issue (ie. the first troubleshooting step to take whenever there is a strange issue that occurs).
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post #3989 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
Are you talking about the glowing blue ring around the porthole on the 7010?

(The 5010 and 6010 don't have the blue LEDs to light up the porthole ring.)
Thank you.
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post #3990 of 12311 Old 03-28-2016, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freaklike View Post
Ok, after a lot of fiddling I think I kind of figured it out.

When I installed the sub and ran calibration, I also changed Amp Assign to 9.1 as I have another set of CT165's on order for a 5.1.4 setup.
I then only chose 2 height speakers as I currently only have 2 connected. Once I do this, the centre speaker immediately sounds VERY crackly/distorted (voices & high notes).

If I choose 11.1 and also select only 2 height speakers (for now), then it sounds perfect. Same if I choose 11.1 with 4 heights or even 9.1 with 4 heights.
If I choose any of the 7.1 options, to at least be able to select 2 hight speakers, it also sounds perfect.

Seems to only be an issue on 9.1 when selecting only 2 height speakers.
Perhaps it is just an issue with mine?
OK, seems the sounds is fine on any amp assign mode BEFORE I run Audyssey setup. As soon as I have completed the setup = same result = with dynamic eq off it is VERY crackly/distorted (voices & highs).
Same with any source or any speakers and any configuration i.e. Stereo (front sounds terrible with dynamic eq off), Dolby (centre sounds terrible with dynamic eq off).
I have checked all cables & connections, done a soft and "hard" reset and rerun Audyssey setup = no improvement.

Is it possible that the mic is damaged and is somehow causing this?
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