*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 162 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4831 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Darren Heal View Post
Thanks for that, but I'm still having no luck...

Can you give me the Sesame Street version?
While testing, make sure you have the processing option "All Zone Stereo" selected while listening to a soundtrack. (Press repeatedly on the Music button to step down to that option.) There are restrictions on which audio inputs can be played in the non-Main Zones if you don't use "All Zone Stereo". Those restrictions might be causing your confusion. The Zone 2 and 3 preamp outputs will be "hot" when you turn on one or both of those Zones, but might or might not be receiving any audio signals if you don't have "All Zone Stereo" enabled.

There are several things which might be causing the problems you're having with the remote. The most likely is that its batteries are dying. The batteries that are included aren't very good. Other possible causes are: something interfering with IR reception (e.g. some fluorescent bulbs can generate a lot of IR interference, especially if you have adjustable illumination), something blocking IR reception, the remote is pointed in the wrong direction, the remote itself starting to fail, or the IR sensor in the receiver is failing.

There are Zone 2&3 on/off buttons at the upper right of the receiver's front panel, under the flap. You can use them if the remote is being balky. The Zone Select button determines which Zone is controlled by the remote and volume knob.

Do these comments help?

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post #4832 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 07:37 PM
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Anyone have problems playing the Dolby Atmos track of John Wick? I was playing it tonite and every so often the sound would cut out and occasionally would rhythmically cut out, necessitating a restart of the movie. If I switched to a non-Atmos track it seemed to be ok, at least for the brief times I tried it.

Gravity Atmos and The Fifth Element Atmos are fine.

I have the SR5010. Is this an AVR compatibility issue? How about a Blu-ray player issue? Player is the Sony BDP-S370.

Edit:

Disc compatibility issue with my Sony player.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-official-avs-forum-blu-ray-disc-reviews/1860858-john-wick-blu-ray-official-avsforum-review-3.html#post31450561

Arrrggh! No update to fix this available
either.

Last edited by BuGsArEtAsTy; 05-21-2016 at 07:46 PM.
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post #4833 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
In industry speak, "fairly soon" can mean just about anything. Just wondering about more specific dates. Hopefully, they have something for us before August. Who knows at this point. It could be a Christmas present instead the way they're crawling with the updates.
S]oon O]nly N]ot Y]et seems to be an easy way to remember it.
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post #4834 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
Anyone have problems playing the Dolby Atmos track of John Wick? I was playing it tonite and every so often the sound would cut out and occasionally would rhythmically cut out, necessitating a restart of the movie. If I switched to a non-Atmos track it seemed to be ok, at least for the brief times I tried it.

Gravity Atmos and The Fifth Element Atmos are fine.

I have the SR5010. Is this an AVR compatibility issue? How about a Blu-ray player issue? Player is the Sony BDP-S370.
That's awful about your player! John Wick is great on my Samsung player. I did have to set it to uncompressed bitstream which slowed down synch on my Onkyo NR-646 (which I took back) but it has been instant on or 1/10th a second delay.

Where did you get Gravity Atmos? How much?
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post #4835 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 08:47 PM
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Gravity Atmos (ie. Diamond Luxe Edition) is CAD$20 at Amazon.ca. So only about US$15.50.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00PTG...2uL&ref=plSrch

Same price at BestBuy.ca but I don't think Best Buy has it in stock.

http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/gravity-special-edition-blu-ray-2014-blu-ray/m2215640.aspx?path=0b572d030377410023e293dc3214c59 een02

I'm in Canada so that's convenient having it at Amazon.ca. I don't know if they ship to the US.

---

For John Wick it would probably work with PCM but then I'd lose Atmos.

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post #4836 of 12171 Old 05-21-2016, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
Anyone have problems playing the Dolby Atmos track of John Wick? I was playing it tonite and every so often the sound would cut out and occasionally would rhythmically cut out, necessitating a restart of the movie. If I switched to a non-Atmos track it seemed to be ok, at least for the brief times I tried it.

Gravity Atmos and The Fifth Element Atmos are fine.

I have the SR5010. Is this an AVR compatibility issue? How about a Blu-ray player issue? Player is the Sony BDP-S370.

Edit:

Disc compatibility issue with my Sony player.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-of...l#post31450561

Arrrggh! No update to fix this available
either.
That's why I sold my Sony.. In Oppo we trust
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post #4837 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
Gravity Atmos (ie. Diamond Luxe Edition) is CAD$20 at Amazon.ca. So only about US$15.50.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00PTG...2uL&ref=plSrch

Same price at BestBuy.ca but I don't think Best Buy has it in stock.

http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/...dc3214c59een02

I'm in Canada so that's convenient having it at Amazon.ca. I don't know if they ship to the US.

---

For John Wick it would probably work with PCM but then I'd lose Atmos.
I owe you one. The USA version has been out of print for months and to get it third party on Amazon is more than $50. MUCH higher from Amazon UK. BB .ca is sold out and I had a good price at US site but they canceled the order twice for being unavailable. Shipped from Canada is $30 USD which isn't great but it's certainly good enough to add it to Atmos collection.
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post #4838 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
Audyssey is calibrating your speakers against reference volume.
If that's also how loud you want to listen, then a setting of 85 would be "normal".

You can change all of the channel trims up by 3 dB if you like, and that will produce louder sound at a given master volume level. However, the maximum volume isn't going to change; you're just adjusting the gain via the trims instead.

Also-- if you're used to linear taper volume knobs, look up the difference between those and log taper volume knobs.
My understanding is reference for calibration is 75dB and the reference for an actual movie would be 85dB. I never know what to peg a listening reference to since movies have variable volume like life itself. I confirmed that at listening position with gain at 0dB and test tones on I'm getting about 75. The calibration was Audyssey and I'm pleased at how close the numbers are.

Another observation for my SR-7010 is if I turn on Dialog Level Adjust even at -.5 I perceive the volume to be higher. I get confused since I haven't had this measurement options before but I think -.5 is less than 0? And if I leave it at 0 it still sounds louder. -10 sounds more like -3 on the system gain.

What's up with that?
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post #4839 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 05:53 AM
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105db is movie level, 115db is the LFE level. Using test tones (-30dbfs) for speakers to cal them 75db and tones for subs (-40dbfs) is the way to level check after it Audyssey runs. Spears and munsil 2 has -30dbfs and -40dbfs tones. Once I run audyssey I throw the disc in the blu-ray player so the reference tones then run through the AVR's processing, and check levels that way. Been very happy with this method so far. Not always sure I can trust AVR internal tones because some claim they bypass processing, and would therefore not be accurate.

XT32 is usually close with speakers, but just about always sets my subs at 70db, when they should report 80db.
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post #4840 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CLTGreg View Post
My understanding is reference for calibration is 75dB and the reference for an actual movie would be 85dB. I never know what to peg a listening reference to since movies have variable volume like life itself. I confirmed that at listening position with gain at 0dB and test tones on I'm getting about 75. The calibration was Audyssey and I'm pleased at how close the numbers are.

Another observation for my SR-7010 is if I turn on Dialog Level Adjust even at -.5 I perceive the volume to be higher. I get confused since I haven't had this measurement options before but I think -.5 is less than 0? And if I leave it at 0 it still sounds louder. -10 sounds more like -3 on the system gain.

What's up with that?
Subwoofer Level Adjust (SLA) / Dialog Level Adjust (DLA) - These setting should be linked to the Manual Setup - Levels - Test Tones (Subwoofer/Center); however, are not linked, such that if your sub/center is set to -6db in Manual Setup and you set the SLA/DLA setting to ON (without modifying the factory default setting of 0db), the sub/center volume level will be increased to 0db, so in other words, in this instance doing so would increase the volume by +6db (-6db --> 0db). Much better to use either the Manual Setup - Test Tones - Subwoofer/Center for a global change to all sources or the Option - Channel Level Adjust - Subwoofer/Center for a change to that specific source only.
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post #4841 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
While testing, make sure you have the processing option "All Zone Stereo" selected while listening to a soundtrack. (Press repeatedly on the Music button to step down to that option.) There are restrictions on which audio inputs can be played in the non-Main Zones if you don't use "All Zone Stereo". Those restrictions might be causing your confusion. The Zone 2 and 3 preamp outputs will be "hot" when you turn on one or both of those Zones, but might or might not be receiving any audio signals if you don't have "All Zone Stereo" enabled.
Note that on the 2013 and newer models, you would press the OPTION button to select ALL ZONE STEREO.
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post #4842 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
That's why I sold my Sony.. In Oppo we trust
At those prices for the Oppos I think I'll just get a UHD player (even though I don't have a 4K display yet). I'll wait for another brand, but I'll note that the Samsung UHD BD player costs less than the Oppo Blu-ray players here.

Or maybe I'll just pick up a sub-$100 Blu-ray player in the interim, or else just forego Atmos on this title.
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post #4843 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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As some may know, I've been researching for converting an older audio-only room setup to a Home Theater, adding the RS400 for the Video component, and updating the Audio to obtain true Dolby Surround and Atmos. The SR7010 will be the brains of the operation!

Please recommend initial Audio configuration to set up the SR7010. It should arrive early next week, and I've been reading the online manual to prepare. There are many configuration options, and I'd like to identify the best one to at least start with. I'll be dealing with setting up the RS400 as well, with all of its complexities, so am trying to be as prepared as I can. So here's my setup (7.1.4):

Front Left/Right:
Massive Duntech Sovereigns, frequency response extends down to 27Hz.
Each of these will be powered by its own Adcom GFA-555 amp in bridged mode (600Watts), so will be using pre-outs from the SR7010.

Center:
Powered JBL LSR308 Studio Monitor. 37Hz - 24khz. Also using pre-out from the SR7010.

Subwoofer:
Massive 8' DIY sub with 4 18" SI HT Drivers, powered by iNuke 6000 (built by an AVS-er, from whom I'm buying this sub).
He recommended crossover around 60Hz for this sub that is tuned at 16Hz.

Atmos (4 Speakers, to be mounted as Top Front and Top Back, reasonably close to Dolby recommendations for these speakers):
Ascend Acoustics CBM170-SE (58Hz - 22kHz +/- 3dB, 89dB @ 1 watt/ 1 meter)

Dolby Surround (4 speakers, mounted to sides and rear, again reasonably close to Dolby recommendations):
2 original Wharfedale Diamond (backplate says 50Hz to 20kHz, 87dB Sensitivity)
2 Wharfedale Diamond II (backplate says 50Hz to 20kHz, 86dB Sensitivity)

So as seen here, the SR7010 amps will be used to power only the 4 Dolby and 4 Atmos speakers.
  1. The "main" crossover (Manual P. 265) ranges from 40Hz to 250Hz (default 80Hz) - what would be optimal for my situation?
  2. There is another section "LPF for LFE" (Manual P. 266) that ranges from 80Hz to 250Hz, default 120Hz - what exactly is this for, and again, what would be optimal for my situation?
  3. Subwoofer Mode (Manual P. 266): set to LFE or LFE+Main in my situation (and why)?
  4. Speakers can be set to Small or Large - Duntech's as Large, 8 Dolby/Atmos as Small, Center Channel to which?
  5. And when Odyssey is run, does it automatically designate speakers as Small or Large, or is that done manually? Or should what I choose 'override' what Odyssey would designate?
  6. And on the subject of Audyssey: the JBL Powered Center has its own volume/gain control, and the iNuke 6000 for the Subwoofer does as well - where do I set these before running Audyssey?

Any other tips appreciated. I've consumed untold hours doing the research for this project, in terms of selecting the best gear for my situation, and I'm now playing catch-up in terms of how to configure it all for optimal performance!
Hi Don,

Do the sub crawl test first along the front wall where you can find a few good places on the DIY sub. The mid point of the wall is a generally a good starting point, but sub crawl test will help identify the right position better.

Initially set the sub plate amp level to about 9 o'clock position (25%). Do a quick 3 point Audyssey run, save the results and check the setting for sub level. If SR-7010 reports somewhere between -6dB to -3dB, you're good to go with the full of the 8 point measurement. If the sub level on the receiver is not within this range, adjust the sub plate amp level up or down and redo the 3-point Audyssey measurement again. This is an iterative process until the sub level as reported by the receiver is within the range. You will then be able to boost the bass once bass management is implemented (further details below).

Try the close mic positioning as shown in post number 687. Might want to compare it against the wide sofa arrangement shown in the SR-7010 owner's manual. You can save the configuration file onto the PC and choose the one you like by reLOADing the preferred one.

Most likely Audyssey will report the LCR speakers as LARGE. Turn on bass management by setting them to SMALL with the starting crossover frequency of 80Hz. Feel free to adjust the crossover up/down to where the bass sounds the best at the MLP to you. Most find the bass neutered by Audyssey, so to tweak this go to Manual Setup --> Test Tones --> Subwoofer for a global change to all sources and increase by +3dB to +6dB.

Let us know how it sounds once setup and tweaked to your liking.

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post #4844 of 12171 Old 05-22-2016, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Hi Don,

Do the sub crawl test first along the front wall where you can find a few good places on the DIY sub. The mid point of the wall is a generally a good starting point, but sub crawl test will help identify the right position better.

Initially set the sub plate amp level to about 9 o'clock position (25%). Do a quick 3 point Audyssey run, save the results and check the setting for sub level. If SR-7010 reports somewhere between -6dB to -3dB, you're good to go with the full of the 8 point measurement. If the sub level on the receiver is not within this range, adjust the sub plate amp level up or down and redo the 3-point Audyssey measurement again. This is an iterative process until the sub level as reported by the receiver is within the range. You will then be able to boost the bass once bass management is implemented (further details below).

Try the close mic positioning as shown in post number 687. Might want to compare it against the wide sofa arrangement shown in the SR-7010 owner's manual. You can save the configuration file onto the PC and choose the one you like by reLOADing the preferred one.

Most likely Audyssey will report the LCR speakers as LARGE. Turn on bass management by setting them to SMALL with the starting crossover frequency of 80Hz. Feel free to adjust the crossover up/down to where the bass sounds the best at the MLP to you. Most find the bass neutered by Audyssey, so to tweak this go to Manual Setup --> Test Tones --> Subwoofer for a global change to all sources and increase by +3dB to +6dB.

Let us know how it sounds once setup and tweaked to your liking.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm hoping to have some of the gear set up within the next week or so. The Dolby/Atmos may be a little later, waiting for my guy to have time to run the wires to their locations.

Will report back when I have something useful to report!

JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
Front L/R: Duntech Sovereigns, powered by 2 bridged Adcom GFA-555
Center: Revel C208 powered by Cambridge Audio Azur 851W
Dolby Bed (4): Sony Core SS-CS5, Atmos (4): Ascend Acoustics CBM-170 SE
Subwoofer: DIY 8' sub with 4 18" SI Drivers, powered by iNuke 6000
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post #4845 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm hoping to have some of the gear set up within the next week or so. The Dolby/Atmos may be a little later, waiting for my guy to have time to run the wires to their locations.

Will report back when I have something useful to report!
Don,

You'll want to do the same level adjustment procedure for the powered center speaker (JBL LSR308 Studio Monitor). Target level (post-Audyssey) is from -6dB to 0dB. So check both the center as well as the sub levels after doing the minimum 3 point measurement and saving the results.

You can then adjust upwards the center channel level (say +3db) on the SR-7010 using the Manual Setup --> Test Tones --> Center for a global change to all sources to increase the dialogue in movies.
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post #4846 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 02:40 AM
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Just got my AE from speakers (the only configuration that is available to me currently).
What's the best setup in term of speaker assignment for both ATMOS and DTS:X ? I remember reading it here in the post, but could not find with the search.

Oron
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post #4847 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orons View Post
Just got my AE from speakers (the only configuration that is available to me currently).
What's the best setup in term of speaker assignment for both ATMOS and DTS:X ? I remember reading it here in the post, but could not find with the search.

Oron
Designating in- or on-ceiling overheads as Front Height and Rear Height has been reported to produce the best results, despite where they're physically located.

Presumably designating Atmos Enabled speakers as Front Dolby and Back Dolby would be appropriate.

ETA: Note that the upfiring speakers do need to be designated Dolby because of the special psycho-acoustic frequency shaping being done in the speakers. The room EQ software has to know to take that into consideration. Otherwise, it'd treat the frequency shaping as just one more distortion that it has to flatten out.

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Fronts=NHT 2.9+AC2, FH+TM=DefTech PM1000, LCR+TM amped

Last edited by Selden Ball; 05-23-2016 at 03:00 AM.
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post #4848 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Initially set the sub plate amp level to about 9 o'clock position (25%). Do a quick 3 point Audyssey run, save the results and check the setting for sub level. If SR-7010 reports somewhere between -6dB to -3dB, you're good to go with the full of the 8 point measurement. If the sub level on the receiver is not within this range, adjust the sub plate amp level up or down and redo the 3-point Audyssey measurement again. This is an iterative process until the sub level as reported by the receiver is within the range. You will then be able to boost the bass once bass management is implemented (further details below).
Dumb question, but what is the easiest way to set up for the 3 point calibration? What do I choose under the amp assign or channel menu?

Video: JVC RS540 w/Anamorphic Lens & 122" 2.35:1 CIH
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post #4849 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 06:53 AM
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I was told to ask this here, so:

Let's say I have this receiver (NR1606/7), but I don't want to be turning on the telly right now. I'd rather listen to some FM, then browse through some internet radio stations, and lastly pick out an album I have stored on a server before calling it a night. Since this is a jack-of-all-trades unit, how is the experience? Is it difficult because of the one line display? Is the interface more tuned for using the OSD output through HDMI? Are the on-unit menus confusing? Is there anything actually impossible to do just by looking at the unit?

I would also like to know what kind of characteristics can I expect with this kind of receiver compared to the low end Marantz stereo amps, I mean basic stuff like THD, StN. Can I expect them to match, or is that foolish? (this is the less important question)

Thank you.
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post #4850 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Dumb question, but what is the easiest way to set up for the 3 point calibration? What do I choose under the amp assign or channel menu?
Hi TKNice,

The 3 point calibration refers to the Audyssey run. Plug the mic into the Marantz pre/pro/receiver, then place the mic at the Main Listening Position (MLP). It's better to use use a boom stand mic holder or tripod, but the supplied 'rocketship' cardboard cutout will do if neither are available. The 1st position is the most important as this will determine the trim levels and delays for all speakers.

(a) 1st mic position. Main Listening Position (MLP). This is the center of head and at ear level.
(b) 2nd mic position. +3" to the left of MLP.
(c) 3rd mic position. +3" to the right of MLP.

Once the 3rd position is carried out, exit and save. Then check the results for each speaker.
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post #4851 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Hi TKNice,

The 3 point calibration refers to the Audyssey run. Plug the mic into the Marantz pre/pro/receiver, then place the mic at the Main Listening Position (MLP). It's better to use use a boom stand mic holder or tripod, but the supplied 'rocketship' cardboard cutout will do if neither are available. The 1st position is the most important as this will determine the trim levels and delays for all speakers.

(a) 1st mic position. Main Listening Position (MLP). This is the center of head and at ear level.
(b) 2nd mic position. +3" to the left of MLP.
(c) 3rd mic position. +3" to the right of MLP.

Once the 3rd position is carried out, exit and save. Then check the results for each speaker.
Oh.. k, I didn't think I saw an exit and save option. It seemed like I had to cancel the audyssey calibration.

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post #4852 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 09:27 AM
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You can. When you setup new speakers/subs it is the easiest way to check distances and levels before running a full measure of all the points.

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post #4853 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 12:03 PM
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You can. When you setup new speakers/subs it is the easiest way to check distances and levels before running a full measure of all the points.
I see.. it let's you press COMPLETE after three measurements. I think I got my subs in the -3 to -6 range before the full measurement.. They were right at -6 after the 3pt run and Audyssey wouldn't let me go any lower once the sub level adjuster screen came up. 73db was about as low as I could set and still make it green.

Incidentally, is there a way to get to the sub level screen manually or does it just come up automatically when needed?

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post #4854 of 12171 Old 05-23-2016, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TKNice View Post
I see.. it let's you press COMPLETE after three measurements. I think I got my subs in the -3 to -6 range before the full measurement.. They were right at -6 after the 3pt run and Audyssey wouldn't let me go any lower once the sub level adjuster screen came up. 73db was about as low as I could set and still make it green.

Incidentally, is there a way to get to the sub level screen manually or does it just come up automatically when needed?
If you are referring to the Sub level adjust screen during the EQ process, that only comes up when you run Audyssey.

If you are simply referring to the sub volume level:

Manual Setup - Test Tone - Subwoofer (globally change subwoofer level for all sources)

Option - Channel Level Adjust - Subwoofer (change the subwoofer level for the selected source only)
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post #4855 of 12171 Old 05-24-2016, 03:53 PM
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Help with SR-7010 Ambient Noise during Audyssey

I want to play with this some more but I'd like advice first. I ran Audyssey and aborted after the first listening station due to the phase errors which is also before I knew of the three station method.

When trying to do the manual adjustments three speakers at -12 @ 0dB tone at 77dB. I can't go lower and therefore have to bring all the others up. If this is good enough then fine for now. I'd like to know the best way to fix this kind of thing manually.

Meanwhile I run Audyssey again and it poops out on ambient noise. Maybe this is related to the bipolar nature again but I doubt it since older receivers worked fine though they didn't test phase. Phase isn't the issue here.

The only thing making nose in range is my fridge 15 feet away. Audio Tool doesn't even register it. The room reports 52 dB dead silence. No ceiling fan, no HVAC. I even turned off the fish tank filter.

Is this some sort of dB issue or is it picking up ghosts? Last set I tried 4 times in a row but it failed each time.

PS: Would wrong setting on distance have an effect on levels?

Last edited by CLTGreg; 05-24-2016 at 03:55 PM. Reason: ? about distance
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post #4856 of 12171 Old 05-24-2016, 05:57 PM
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You will be surprised what counts as noise. My room measures about 30-40db with nothing on.
Even road noise matters.
So turn off that fridge for a few minutes, fans, and another other gear
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post #4857 of 12171 Old 05-25-2016, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CLTGreg View Post
I want to play with this some more but I'd like advice first. I ran Audyssey and aborted after the first listening station due to the phase errors which is also before I knew of the three station method.

When trying to do the manual adjustments three speakers at -12 @ 0dB tone at 77dB. I can't go lower and therefore have to bring all the others up. If this is good enough then fine for now. I'd like to know the best way to fix this kind of thing manually.
This usually happens when using external amps and extremely efficient (sensitive) speakers. The usual recommendation is to put 12dB attenuators between the preamp and the amps. If you aren't using external amps, then calibrating to a lower level and adjusting the master volume control appropriately would seem to be appropriate.
Quote:

Meanwhile I run Audyssey again and it poops out on ambient noise. Maybe this is related to the bipolar nature again but I doubt it since older receivers worked fine though they didn't test phase. Phase isn't the issue here.
It could be that you have an overly-sensitive Audyssey microphone. You might try getting a replacement. (You are using the mic that came with the AVR, I hope. The EQ will be wrong if you use anything else.)
Quote:
The only thing making nose in range is my fridge 15 feet away. Audio Tool doesn't even register it. The room reports 52 dB dead silence. No ceiling fan, no HVAC. I even turned off the fish tank filter.
What microphone are you using with Audio Tool? A quality, calibrated USB mic, like those recommended for use with REW, costs about $100.
Quote:
Is this some sort of dB issue or is it picking up ghosts? Last set I tried 4 times in a row but it failed each time.
My understanding is that subsonics can be a source of noise level problems. However, 52 dB is somewhat loud. Do you know what's causing it, if not the fridge? If it is the fridge, then, well, unplug it during the calibration, too.
Quote:
PS: Would wrong setting on distance have an effect on levels?
No. The distance settings are configured as part of the Audyssey calibration. Any previous manual settings are ignored.

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post #4858 of 12171 Old 05-25-2016, 01:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Grahut View Post
I was told to ask this here, so:

Let's say I have this receiver (NR1606/7), but I don't want to be turning on the telly right now. I'd rather listen to some FM, then browse through some internet radio stations, and lastly pick out an album I have stored on a server before calling it a night. Since this is a jack-of-all-trades unit, how is the experience? Is it difficult because of the one line display? Is the interface more tuned for using the OSD output through HDMI? Are the on-unit menus confusing? Is there anything actually impossible to do just by looking at the unit?

I would also like to know what kind of characteristics can I expect with this kind of receiver compared to the low end Marantz stereo amps, I mean basic stuff like THD, StN. Can I expect them to match, or is that foolish? (this is the less important question)

Thank you.
Hi Grahut,

I'm using an app called DeRemote with the iDevice and use it for checking/adjusting settings when streaming tunes from the Android device, NAS as well as Spotify. The app has all the information and controls of the Marantz receiver on the iDevice which means one is not dependent on the Marantz display (or TV) at all to check for settings. I find this to be very useful and something you might want to consider.

I've never compared the Marantz receiver to a low end integrated stereo amp, so can't help you there. But one thing to keep in mind is that the receiver has HDMI switching, bass management, room correction with accurate levels and delay settings that most integrated amps leave out. In terms of value, it's hard to beat the features offered in a receiver.

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Last edited by steveting99; 05-25-2016 at 02:01 AM. Reason: typo and additional text
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post #4859 of 12171 Old 05-25-2016, 03:28 AM
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Simulate full 4K 18Gbps output with the SR7010?

OK, my RS400 arrived today, along with the SR7010, and I've been able to confirm that both units are working, and to start testing things out, specifically with reference to the cable.

I purchased this PlugLug 25' Cable for $9.99 (!) and initial testing is positive.

I'm using an ordinary Sony BluRay player for initial testing, connected to the JVC with an Amazon Prime Cable. I configured the SR7010 to put out "4K (60/50)", 4:4:4. It took the JVC a little time to do the switch, but then it carried on without apparent problem.

When I checked the Info/Settings to show what the JVC was detecting, it showed:

Source 4K (3840) 60
Deep Color 8 Bit
Color Space YUV

I didn't see any setting on the SR7010 to increase color depth to 10 bit, so I'm not sure I'm fully testing the 18Gbps capacity of the cable.

Basically, I'm wanting to have the SR7010 output simulate what it would be doing if I had an actual UHD BD player attached to it, to make sure this 25' cable will pass the signal properly.

Is the test I've already done adequate to conclude that this PlugLug cable is up to the task of doing 18Gbps, or do I need to change settings somewhere to accomplish that?

P.S. Please excuse the taped up sheet acting as a screen, plus the washed out image! I want to test things out to make a final decision on screen size, and the blackout shades for the various doors and windows haven't been purchased yet! One thing at a time!
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JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
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post #4860 of 12171 Old 05-25-2016, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
This usually happens when using external amps and extremely efficient (sensitive) speakers. The usual recommendation is to put 12dB attenuators between the preamp and the amps. If you aren't using external amps, then calibrating to a lower level and adjusting the master volume control appropriately would seem to be appropriate. It could be that you have an overly-sensitive Audyssey microphone. You might try getting a replacement. (You are using the mic that came with the AVR, I hope. The EQ will be wrong if you use anything else.)
What microphone are you using with Audio Tool? A quality, calibrated USB mic, like those recommended for use with REW, costs about $100. My understanding is that subsonics can be a source of noise level problems. However, 52 dB is somewhat loud. Do you know what's causing it, if not the fridge? If it is the fridge, then, well, unplug it during the calibration, too.
No. The distance settings are configured as part of the Audyssey calibration. Any previous manual settings are ignored.
That sounds like work. It only happened this one time and my guess is that if I can get through the three positions that it will be fine. The mic is a Dayton Audio iMM-6 which comes with a calibrated file for Audio Tool. I think that if I read 75 at 0 then it should be plenty close. In fact the readings from Audyssey are usually off by 1 or 2 dB.

If I can't get it to be fixed is the idea of matching other speakers to 77 which is where these speakers are stuck? I know it isn't a good idea but I'm not sure what to do in the meantime.
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