*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 163 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4861 of 12172 Old 05-25-2016, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke M View Post
You can almost do it:
1. Turn off center speaker if you're using one.
2. Connect headphones to left/right pre-outs

The headphones won't have any surround channel content, but this may be an advantage since it'll make dialogue easier to hear.
Hi there,

New owner of 1606 and mostly pleased except for wanting to connect headphones as above. I'll try as recommended. What is unclear in the manual is how the L & R pre-outs work. Zone 2 and Sub 1 & 2 are explained and easy to access.
I had planned to use Zone 2 to feed the wireless headphones and Pre out L&R to run a pair of powered monitors in conjunction with passive surround speakers. Doable and how?

Thanks,
Stephen
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post #4862 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bteam View Post
Hi there,

New owner of 1606 and mostly pleased except for wanting to connect headphones as above. I'll try as recommended. What is unclear in the manual is how the L & R pre-outs work. Zone 2 and Sub 1 & 2 are explained and easy to access.
I had planned to use Zone 2 to feed the wireless headphones and Pre out L&R to run a pair of powered monitors in conjunction with passive surround speakers. Doable and how?

Thanks,
Stephen
Yes, noting that Zone 2 will only pass network sources, USB, AM/FM Tuner, and external devices also connected with an analog (red/white) cable.
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post #4863 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 02:56 AM
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Nr1606

Hi All,

I spent last 24 hours mostly on reading all the posts on this thread as my NR1606 is likely to be delivered in a day or two. Felt little disappointed as there were not many views/good feedback on NR1606, nevertheless I hope the receiver would please my ears

I have following quick question for which I need your valuable suggestions:

1) I plan to run my NR1606 in my main Hall with Dali Zensor 7 (floor standers) + Dali Vokal + Polk BS for surround + SVSPB1000. I have pair of Boston XS satellite which I am planning to use for Atmos setup. I can either set it up as Front Height or as Rear Height. Out of these two, which setting is generally advisable for 5.1.2 ?

2) I have moved my existing SR6009 to my small bed room connected only to Dali Zensor 3 for TV/Stereo listening with no SUB. Will there be any substantial weakness in running Zensor 7 with sub by NR1606 or should I swap Zensor 3 as fronts ?

3) I see there is no DTSX update to NR1606. So what options should I choose while listening to non atmos DD movies + DTS movies for atmos effect?

Thanks for reading.

Last edited by murlidher; 05-26-2016 at 03:37 AM.
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post #4864 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by murlidher View Post
Hi All,

I spent last 24 hours mostly on reading all the posts on this thread as my NR1606 is likely to be delivered in a day or two. Felt little disappointed as there were not many views/good feedback on NR1606, nevertheless I hope the receiver would please my ears

I have following quick question for which I need your valuable suggestions:

1) I plan to run my NR1606 in my main Hall with Dali Zensor 7 (floor standers) + Dali Vokal + Polk BS for surround + SVSPB1000. I have pair of Boston XS satellite which I am planning to use for Atmos setup. I can either set it up as Front Height or as Rear Height. Out of these two, which setting is generally advisable for 5.1.2 ?

2) I have moved my existing SR6009 to my small bed room connected only to Dali Zensor 3 for TV/Stereo listening with no SUB. Will there be any substantial weakness in running Zensor 7 with sub by NR1606 or should I swap Zensor 3 as fronts ?

3) I see there is no DTSX update to NR1606. So what options should I choose while listening to non atmos DD movies + DTS movies for atmos effect?

Thanks for reading.
1. There is no "Rear Height" setting on the NR1606, so you would use "Front Height."
2. The Zensor 3's are harder to drive than the Zensor 7's so no reason to swap.
3. DTS:X update due to be released later this summer (Aug). DD movies can use the Dolby Surround upmixer (DSU) directly while until the DTS:X update is loaded, DTS movies would require setting the Blu Ray/DVD player to "PCM" and then you can use the DSU.
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post #4865 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murlidher View Post
Hi All,

I spent last 24 hours mostly on reading all the posts on this thread as my NR1606 is likely to be delivered in a day or two. Felt little disappointed as there were not many views/good feedback on NR1606, nevertheless I hope the receiver would please my ears

I have following quick question for which I need your valuable suggestions:

1) I plan to run my NR1606 in my main Hall with Dali Zensor 7 (floor standers) + Dali Vokal + Polk BS for surround + SVSPB1000. I have pair of Boston XS satellite which I am planning to use for Atmos setup. I can either set it up as Front Height or as Rear Height. Out of these two, which setting is generally advisable for 5.1.2 ?
Of the two, Front Height is somewhat more natural. We're more sensitive to sounds in front than behind. However, if you can manage Top Middle, with the speakers slightly in front of the seating, that'd provide the best overhead experience.
Quote:

2) I have moved my existing SR6009 to my small bed room connected only to Dali Zensor 3 for TV/Stereo listening with no SUB. Will there be any substantial weakness in running Zensor 7 with sub by NR1606 or should I swap Zensor 3 as fronts ?
I'd suggest putting the Zensor 7 speakers in whichever room you'll be wanting the highest quality audio. The Zensor 3 can't reach as low a frequency, but that might not matter in the bedroom. The sub will work fine with either set of speakers.
Quote:

3) I see there is no DTSX update to NR1606. So what options should I choose while listening to non atmos DD movies + DTS movies for atmos effect?
The DTS:X update is expected in late summer. Until then, you can decode DTS soundtracks into PCM in your Blu-ray player if you want to use the Dolby Surround upmixer with them. (It works fine with bitstreamed Dolby and PCM soundtracks.) Unfortunately, most current BD players have only stereo decoders, not multichannel. Upmixing from stereo won't preserve the intent of the people mixing the soundtrack as well as can upmixing from multichannel, but it can still provide a very enjoyable experience.

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post #4866 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 04:51 AM
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Thanks Steve, Pete & Everyone for the suggestions.

I finally settled for the following.
  1. Marantz SR-6010 along with existing Sony 47-W850A TV, DishTV HD, Buffalo NAS
  2. Polk Audio RtiA7 Floor Standers
  3. Dual SVS PB-2000 sub-woofers
Audyssey XT32 & dual sub woofer support helped me in choosing the SR-6010. SR-7010 was way too costly and felt will upgrade may be after couple of years.


Thanks again. I am loving it.
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post #4867 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 05:20 AM
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Thanks for quick response. Since my MLP is close to rear wall, I am thinking to place .2 into RH position tilted towards MLP and set it as top middle to gain the advantage of overhead positioning. Hope audyssey helps a bit to compensate whatever lacking. Another reason I am hesitant to try FH is because I would be using Boston X's satellite which I doubt would be that audible being kept at FH position.

JDS- you said z7 is more comfortable to drive than z3 for NR1606 with sub. Normally I assumed BS is more easier to drive then FS for NR series.

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post #4868 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murlidher View Post
thanks for quick response. Since my mlp is close to rear wall, i am thinking to place .2 into rh position tilted towards mlp and set it as top middle to gain the advantage of overhead positioning. Hope audyssey helps a bit to compensate whatever lacking. Another reason i am hesitant to try fh is because i would be using boston x's satellite which i doubt would be that audible being kept at fh position.

Jds- you said z7 is more comfortable to drive than z3 for nr1606 with sub. normally i assumed bs is more easier to drive then fs for nr series.

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bs? Fs?
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post #4869 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 05:32 AM
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Sorry bookshelves (z3) FS floor standing (z7)

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post #4870 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by murlidher View Post
Sorry bookshelves (z3) FS floor standing (z7)

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Not in this case. The Z7 are more efficient (90db) vs. the Z3 (88db).
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post #4871 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 06:08 AM
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Thanks JDS-. Just waiting for NR1606 to reach for setting it up.

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post #4872 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
OK, my RS400 arrived today, along with the SR7010, and I've been able to confirm that both units are working, and to start testing things out, specifically with reference to the cable.

I purchased this PlugLug 25' Cable for $9.99 (!) and initial testing is positive.

I'm using an ordinary Sony BluRay player for initial testing, connected to the JVC with an Amazon Prime Cable. I configured the SR7010 to put out "4K (60/50)", 4:4:4. It took the JVC a little time to do the switch, but then it carried on without apparent problem.

When I checked the Info/Settings to show what the JVC was detecting, it showed:

Source 4K (3840) 60
Deep Color 8 Bit
Color Space YUV

I didn't see any setting on the SR7010 to increase color depth to 10 bit, so I'm not sure I'm fully testing the 18Gbps capacity of the cable.

Basically, I'm wanting to have the SR7010 output simulate what it would be doing if I had an actual UHD BD player attached to it, to make sure this 25' cable will pass the signal properly.

Is the test I've already done adequate to conclude that this PlugLug cable is up to the task of doing 18Gbps, or do I need to change settings somewhere to accomplish that?

P.S. Please excuse the taped up sheet acting as a screen, plus the washed out image! I want to test things out to make a final decision on screen size, and the blackout shades for the various doors and windows haven't been purchased yet! One thing at a time!
Don,

If you can get a 4k, 60Hz, 4:4:4 10bit source and play it through the SR-7010, the bandwidth requirements sent on the output of the receiver to the projector would be higher. This will be a better test on the capabilities of the PlugLug 25' Cable and it's ability to carry the 18Gbps.

You'll be able to tell the difference between an 8bit source (which the older SDR rec.709 is based upon) vs. a 10bit source (which HDR is based upon with the new BT2020 wide color gamut) by the banding over a large dynamic range scene such as a sunset as shown below.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #4873 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Don,

If you can get a 4k, 60Hz, 4:4:4 10bit source and play it through the SR-7010, the bandwidth requirements sent on the output of the receiver to the projector would be higher. This will be a better test on the capabilities of the PlugLug 25' Cable and it's ability to carry the 18Gbps.

You'll be able to tell the difference between an 8bit source (which the older SDR rec.709 is based upon) vs. a 10bit source (which HDR is based upon with the new BT2020 wide color gamut) by the banding over a large dynamic range scene such as a sunset as shown below.
Your post got me thinking - is there a 10-bit video file I could download from somewhere, put on a USB stick, plug it in and play it on the SR7010?

I don't have any such source available (I checked, and my computer's videocard doesn't have this capability either), but if I could download a file like that, that would give me the ability to 'stress test' the PlugLug cable.

Is this possible? Links?

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post #4874 of 12172 Old 05-26-2016, 09:37 PM
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Hi, my sr5010 won't pair with MacBook Pro. it paired once which took 30 min of trying but won't anymore. Have done firmware update and disconnected power for 30 seconds, turned off and on again in macbook bluetooth with no luck. Any ideas?
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post #4875 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rayrush!!!! View Post
Hi, my sr5010 won't pair with MacBook Pro. it paired once which took 30 min of trying but won't anymore. Have done firmware update and disconnected power for 30 seconds, turned off and on again in macbook bluetooth with no luck. Any ideas?
Can the MacBook easily pair with other devices? What OS does the MacBook use? If OS X Yosemite, review the following article ...

http://www.techrepublic.com/article/...os-x-yosemite/
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post #4876 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 06:25 AM
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I made a speaker change and all my speaker EQ data was blown away. I remembered comments about having to re-run Audyssey when you do this and now I understand why. So I did a restore instead but it didn't restore my EQ info. Is this normal? I thought I would try to do a restore once more but now I am getting a "Load is not Complete. Please try again." Trying again fails. Is there a way to get your EQ info back without re-running Audyssey?
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post #4877 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 06:34 AM
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I made a speaker change and all my speaker EQ data was blown away. I remembered comments about having to re-run Audyssey when you do this and now I understand why. So I did a restore instead but it didn't restore my EQ info. Is this normal? I thought I would try to do a restore once more but now I am getting a "Load is not Complete. Please try again." Trying again fails. Is there a way to get your EQ info back without re-running Audyssey?

Depending on the "speaker change" you made, worst case is that Audyssey would have simply been disabled. Did you add a new speaker(s)? If yes, then you'll want to run Audyssey again.
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post #4878 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 06:44 AM
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Depending on the "speaker change" you made, worst case is that Audyssey would have simply been disabled. Did you add a new speaker(s)? If yes, then you'll want to run Audyssey again.
No, I changed overheads to heights and then was messing around with backs vs wides (which were both in the original setup). I can't seem to be able to re-enable Audyssey? That is why I was doing a restore. Shouldn't it restore everything?
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post #4879 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 06:51 AM
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No, I changed overheads to heights and then was messing around with backs vs wides (which were both in the original setup).
Changing the designations of the overhead speakers is equivalent to adding new speakers. Changing back to the designations you were originally using might (or might not) make the previous Audyssey calibration available again.

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post #4880 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 07:25 AM
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Thanks JD and Selden. I was finally able to re-load my backup data (power cycle, download current data, re-load previous file) but I am unable to re-enable Audyssey (greyed out). I'll try a few more things but I am not hopeful. Looks like I will probably have to redo Audyssey and then change everything back to manual. Good thing I have those settings written down!
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post #4881 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 07:29 AM
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OK..I am sure it is in the manual somewhere but here is the fix...for Audyssey to be enabled, a source also needed to be enabled. Once I turned on my BD player the settings became available. Not enough to have the AVR set to the input, need the input powered on.
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post #4882 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 07:42 AM
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OK..I am sure it is in the manual somewhere but here is the fix...for Audyssey to be enabled, a source also needed to be enabled. Once I turned on my BD player the settings became available. Not enough to have the AVR set to the input, need the input powered on.
Oh. Oops.

I guess that "makes sense". The actual type of Audyssey processing (e.g.Reference, Flat, L/R Bypass) is set on a per-input basis, If you don't have any input, it can't apply it.

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post #4883 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 05:12 PM
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Connected NR1606 to my Dali zensor 7, it ran comfortably without any issues. NR model looks elegant and powerful in my room. Will connect other speakers and run audyssey tonight.

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post #4884 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
This usually happens when using external amps and extremely efficient (sensitive) speakers. The usual recommendation is to put 12dB attenuators between the preamp and the amps. If you aren't using external amps, then calibrating to a lower level and adjusting the master volume control appropriately would seem to be appropriate. It could be that you have an overly-sensitive Audyssey microphone. You might try getting a replacement. (You are using the mic that came with the AVR, I hope. The EQ will be wrong if you use anything else.)
What microphone are you using with Audio Tool? A quality, calibrated USB mic, like those recommended for use with REW, costs about $100. My understanding is that subsonics can be a source of noise level problems. However, 52 dB is somewhat loud. Do you know what's causing it, if not the fridge? If it is the fridge, then, well, unplug it during the calibration, too.
No. The distance settings are configured as part of the Audyssey calibration. Any previous manual settings are ignored.
The solution to the Ambient Noise issue was to bring up the gain on the external receiver that's powering the rear Atmos speakers. After that I did the three position calibration and now I'm in business.

thanks all
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post #4885 of 12172 Old 05-27-2016, 07:56 PM
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thanks jdsmoothie, running capitan 10.11.5.
Yes it will pair with my etc phone
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post #4886 of 12172 Old 05-28-2016, 05:32 AM
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Hi,
I wonder if anyone could help me out with a couple of problems I am having with the installation on my new 7010 ?

Firstly, I am using Q Acoustics Concept 20 as fronts. These are specified to go down to 64 Hz.
I am using Q Acoustics 2010i as surrounds which go down to 68 Hz.
I use an SVS Subwoofer .
I haven't yet installed my remaining speakers (for a 7.2.2) as I need to prepare things.

When the setup (using Setup Assistant) was completed Audyssey had set my fronts (Concepts) to a crossover of 200 Hz and my surrounds (2010i) to 60 Hz. This doesn't seem correct to me but I am not sure.
It seemed to have set the distances spot on and also the subwoofer level seemed very good.
I think that I should manually adjust the fronts and surrounds to a crossover of 80 Hz but am not sure what , if any , effect this will have on the EQ that Audyssey has implemented.

I have double checked all connections and they are correct.

The second issue is that when playing from my PC to the 7010 and then from the 7010 to my TV, all with HDMI cables, the text in some (but not all ) apps and anything written in notepad or word appears in different colours. Some letters are blue, some orange and others black. It seems to be random but frequent.

I have tried different HDMI cables and have tried connecting my PC directly to the TV, in which case the problem disappears. I have also tried various menu changes but to no avail.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards , Alex.
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post #4887 of 12172 Old 05-28-2016, 05:41 AM
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Alex:
Try those settings first. No need to change them without listening.
The next step is to use a SPL meter, and you can lower the Xover later on.
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post #4888 of 12172 Old 05-28-2016, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
Alex:
Try those settings first. No need to change them without listening.
The next step is to use a SPL meter, and you can lower the Xover later on.
Hi Pete,
Will do as you say . I was just a bit puzzled because most guides say use 80 Hz as the crossover frequency.
I have a SPL meter. What would I need to do with it and what would I be looking for?
Regards, Alex.
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post #4889 of 12172 Old 05-28-2016, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Hi Pete,
Will do as you say . I was just a bit puzzled because most guides say use 80 Hz as the crossover frequency.
I have a SPL meter. What would I need to do with it and what would I be looking for?
Regards, Alex.
http://denon.custhelp.com/app/answer...l-or-spl-meter
http://www.audiogurus.com/learn/spea...und-levels/272
https://www.audioholics.com/frequent...match-speakers

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post #4890 of 12172 Old 05-28-2016, 05:53 AM
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Hi,
I wonder if anyone could help me out with a couple of problems I am having with the installation on my new 7010 ?

Firstly, I am using Q Acoustics Concept 20 as fronts. These are specified to go down to 64 Hz.
I am using Q Acoustics 2010i as surrounds which go down to 68 Hz.
I use an SVS Subwoofer .
I haven't yet installed my remaining speakers (for a 7.2.2) as I need to prepare things.

When the setup (using Setup Assistant) was completed Audyssey had set my fronts (Concepts) to a crossover of 200 Hz and my surrounds (2010i) to 60 Hz. This doesn't seem correct to me but I am not sure.
It seemed to have set the distances spot on and also the subwoofer level seemed very good.
I think that I should manually adjust the fronts and surrounds to a crossover of 80 Hz but am not sure what , if any , effect this will have on the EQ that Audyssey has implemented.

I have double checked all connections and they are correct.

The second issue is that when playing from my PC to the 7010 and then from the 7010 to my TV, all with HDMI cables, the text in some (but not all ) apps and anything written in notepad or word appears in different colours. Some letters are blue, some orange and others black. It seems to be random but frequent.

I have tried different HDMI cables and have tried connecting my PC directly to the TV, in which case the problem disappears. I have also tried various menu changes but to no avail.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards , Alex.

On the actual "EQ" .... nothing. But although there is no problem raising the 60Hz crossover up to 80Hz, lowering the 200Hz crossover down to 80Hz would then open up a non EQ'd frequency range from 80Hz - 200Hz which is why you never should lower the crossover.

Try running Audyssey again a few more times ensuring your FL/FR speakers are aimed right at the mic.
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