*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 169 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5041 of 12185 Old 06-06-2016, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoutingMan View Post
Thanks.

I realize the 7200W + 2x7055 is the pretty much the same cost as the 7702mkII + 2x7055 + 7025.

Do current shipping 7200 units come with the HDCP 2.2 upgrade pre-installed or is that still a $150(?) after-purchase upgrade?
All in mate
The 7055 isn't really a real power amp IMO.. it's more like a AVR sans the processor.
For the same money, you can score better power amps, unless you have a big preference for having the same faceplate of the same brand on your rack..
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post #5042 of 12185 Old 06-06-2016, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ShoutingMan View Post

Do current shipping 7200 units come with the HDCP 2.2 upgrade pre-installed or is that still a $150(?) after-purchase upgrade?
From someone who's researched the 2015 X series Denon receivers to death this past year the answer is yes. X7200WA models currently shipping do have the upgraded HDMI board. The older X7200W models "do not" and have to be shipped to a Denon service center for the upgrade to occur. Great receiver.



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post #5043 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ShoutingMan View Post
Thanks.

I realize the 7200W + 2x7055 is the pretty much the same cost as the 7702mkII + 2x7055 + 7025.

Do current shipping 7200 units come with the HDCP 2.2 upgrade pre-installed or is that still a $150(?) after-purchase upgrade?

For the past year (May 2015), the X7200WA has been shipping with the upgrade installed at the factory.
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post #5044 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 03:01 PM
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Hi Guys, I had to send my sr6010 in for repairs yesterday. I was hoping that somebody may have run in to a similar problem that I am having. Only the right surround channel is dropping volume and sounding garbled, sound cuts out and then cuts back in at full volume. This happens intermittently with various sources but usually it happens daily. Before sending it in for repairs I wanted to make sure the problem was in the receiver and not a bad speaker or speaker cable so I switched the surround right and left cables at the back of the receiver and this caused the problem to switch from the right to the left speaker. This tells me that the problem is in the receiver. Usually unplugging the power from the wall outlet for 10 minutes will temporarily resolve it. The only other thing that I can think of that might be relevant is that it seems to start acting up when there is a change from a 2 channel signal input to a multi channel signal input. The problem is that the repair technician has been unable to duplicate the problem. I was worried that might happen due to it being intermittent. Anyone else run in to this before? any suggestions that anyone has would be appreciated.
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post #5045 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 05:36 PM
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Last question, I think
(The Denon 7200 has several reviews, but I can't find anything on the Marantz 7702mkII)

This review says the 7200 has an excellent Atmos up-mixer. Does the Marantz 7702 have the same? I realized, having a brand new Atmos system, with very little content, a good up mixer would be fun.

I'd like to get the Marantz if only for the balanced pre-out connections. But if the Denon has a crazy-good Atmos up-converter that the Marantz lacks (or some other must-have feature), I will probably get the Denon.

https://www.audioholics.com/av-recei...istening-tests
Quote:
The Denon X7200WA made me a convert—well, sort of. Focusing on the Atmos upmixer, I have no idea how the engineers at Dolby created this algorithm, but it’s scary good on just about every single multi-channel source I threw at it. It was even pretty good on some stereo sources. For example, I played the trailer for Avengers Age of Ultron (stereo source) from my AppleTV. During one of the trailer’s scenes the Avengers jet swoops down and passes overhead. Darn it. Wouldn’t you know that the Dolby upmixer was able to extract the jet’s audible cues to seeming perfection! That jet’s audio passed up and over mimicking the on-screen action.
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post #5046 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoutingMan View Post
Last question, I think
(The Denon 7200 has several reviews, but I can't find anything on the Marantz 7702mkII)

This review says the 7200 has an excellent Atmos up-mixer. Does the Marantz 7702 have the same? I realized, having a brand new Atmos system, with very little content, a good up mixer would be fun.

I'd like to get the Marantz if only for the balanced pre-out connections. But if the Denon has a crazy-good Atmos up-converter that the Marantz lacks (or some other must-have feature), I will probably get the Denon.

https://www.audioholics.com/av-recei...istening-tests
The Marantz 7702 mkII, which I own, has the same upmixers as the Denon: Dolby Surround and DTS Neural: X. Both spread non-immersive mixes into the overhead speakers and Neural: X also supports upmixing to the Front Wides.

Because the pre-pro has no amplifiers, it runs only slightly warm.

D+M Holdings is working on a fix for the cross-format upmixer issue in both Denon and Marantz products that have Atmos and X decoding.

Check out AV Science for a competitive price!
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Last edited by Dan Hitchman; 06-07-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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post #5047 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 05:43 PM
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It's more in my head, but I love the preamp + amp vs AVR + amp. An added bonus is the 7702mkII runs cooler than my 4520ci and X4200 did. Also looks damn fine too.

Best of all, it has not given me one hiccup since I bought it.
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post #5048 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 05:49 PM
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The way the volume spikes from full to reduced volume and back to full really makes me think that there is a bad connection somewhere on that channel. When the connection is good it sounds the way it should and when the connection is bad I only get partial/distorted sound. One thing that I did read could cause this is if one of the fuses is blown. My experience with electronics has taught me when a fuse is blown the circuit is dead and there is no intermittent operation, and until the fuse is replaced that circuit will never work. However, looking at the pictures of the glass tube fuses that this receiver uses makes me think that if the conducter element inside the fuse is broken near where it attatches to the metal ends, that it might be possible to have intermittent contact. I would hope the fuses would be one of the first things the technician would inspect but if the problem is not happening maybe they don't. I can't even talk with the tech, I have to go through a service rep so I don't even know if this information is being relayed to the tech properly. I don't know if a fuse can cause this or not but I do believe that it is a contact/connection issue.
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post #5049 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kenny4444 View Post
The way the volume spikes from full to reduced volume and back to full really makes me think that there is a bad connection somewhere on that channel. When the connection is good it sounds the way it should and when the connection is bad I only get partial/distorted sound. One thing that I did read could cause this is if one of the fuses is blown. My experience with electronics has taught me when a fuse is blown the circuit is dead and there is no intermittent operation, and until the fuse is replaced that circuit will never work. However, looking at the pictures of the glass tube fuses that this receiver uses makes me think that if the conducter element inside the fuse is broken near where it attatches to the metal ends, that it might be possible to have intermittent contact. I would hope the fuses would be one of the first things the technician would inspect but if the problem is not happening maybe they don't. I can't even talk with the tech, I have to go through a service rep so I don't even know if this information is being relayed to the tech properly. I don't know if a fuse can cause this or not but I do believe that it is a contact/connection issue.
Depending on the amp design, an individual channel might have two fuses protecting the drivers handling the positive and negative side of the signal. So it's possible to blow one fuse but still have sound coming through, but the amp would be chopping off half of the input signal and creating very distorted sound as a result. Blown fuses are trivial to test, though, so any decent tech ought to catch that.

If giving the AVR a good thump tends to fix the intermittent issue, then it could be a cold or cracked solder joint, or a broken trace on the circuit board.
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post #5050 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
The Marantz 7702 mkII, which I own, has the same upmixers as the Denon: Dolby Surround and DTS Neural: X. Both spread non-immersive mixes into the overhead speakers and Neural: X also supports upmixing to the Front Wides.

Because the pre-pro has no amplifiers, it runs only slightly warm.

D+M Holdings is working on a fix for the cross-format upmixer issue in both Denon and Marantz products that have Atmos and X decoding.

Check out AV Science for a competitive price!
What is the "cross-format up mixer issue"?
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post #5051 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 07:35 PM
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Depending on the amp design, an individual channel might have two fuses protecting the drivers handling the positive and negative side of the signal. So it's possible to blow one fuse but still have sound coming through, but the amp would be chopping off half of the input signal and creating very distorted sound as a result. Blown fuses are trivial to test, though, so any decent tech ought to catch that.

If giving the AVR a good thump tends to fix the intermittent issue, then it could be a cold or cracked solder joint, or a broken trace on the circuit board.


I was debating on how hard to tap it, I ended up being to chicken to give it much of a tap, nothing seemed to change but like I say I didn't hit it very hard. if the technician can't find the problem I will probably get frustrated enough at some point to give it a beating, lol. Hopefully it wont come to that.
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post #5052 of 12185 Old 06-07-2016, 07:49 PM
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What is the "cross-format up mixer issue"?
Dolby Surround can work on Dolby encoded audio and PCM. DTS Neural: X can work on DTS encoded audio and PCM. You can't cross mix them like you used to be able to. This is being worked on and with a firmware update forthcoming.
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post #5053 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:12 AM
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I was listening to the AVRant podcast the other day and one of the hosts was saying that it is the receiver manufacturer, and not Audyssey, that sets the speaker size and crossover settings. I have the 7010 and always assumed Audyssey at least set the crossovers. Is he correct?

He also recommended that you should manually set the crossover for all speakers at 80hz, his reasoning being that the subwoofer does a much better job handling these frequencies than do the other speakers.

I took his advice and wow, what a difference! Even though my mains and surrounds are rated down to 40 Hz there was a noticeable improvement in the bass response from every source I listened too. Of course most of you folks probably know all this but I thought I would share this if there were others who might benefit from this info.


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post #5054 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:14 AM
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Yep, the AVR manufacturer sets those parameters. And 80hz is not set in stone. Mine sound better lower, but they are large speakers. If you have smaller speakers that can't do 80hz well, you might even have to go higher.

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post #5055 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vsorgi View Post
I was listening to the AVRant podcast the other day and one of the hosts was saying that it is the receiver manufacturer, and not Audyssey, that sets the speaker size and crossover settings. I have the 7010 and always assumed Audyssey at least set the crossovers. Is he correct?

He also recommended that you should manually set the crossover for all speakers at 80hz, his reasoning being that the subwoofer does a much better job handling these frequencies than do the other speakers.

I took his advice and wow, what a difference! Even though my mains and surrounds are rated down to 40 Hz there was a noticeable improvement in the bass response from every source I listened too. Of course most of you folks probably know all this but I thought I would share this if there were others who might benefit from this info.


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Hi,
I am a newbie when it comes to AVRs and Audyssey so please excuse what may be a dumb question.
At what stage in the Audyssey calibration process do you manually set your crossover ?
When I have carried out an Audyssey calibration with my 7010 I have never seen an option to enter my own crossover value. I know you can alter it after Audyssey is finished but doesn't this screw up the calibration that Audyssey has just done ?
Regards, Alex.
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post #5056 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsorgi View Post
I was listening to the AVRant podcast the other day and one of the hosts was saying that it is the receiver manufacturer, and not Audyssey, that sets the speaker size and crossover settings. I have the 7010 and always assumed Audyssey at least set the crossovers. Is he correct?

He also recommended that you should manually set the crossover for all speakers at 80hz, his reasoning being that the subwoofer does a much better job handling these frequencies than do the other speakers.

I took his advice and wow, what a difference! Even though my mains and surrounds are rated down to 40 Hz there was a noticeable improvement in the bass response from every source I listened too. Of course most of you folks probably know all this but I thought I would share this if there were others who might benefit from this info.


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Yes, indeed that is correct which is why you can manually change those parameters without affecting Audyssey. Note that the 80Hz setting is the minimum suggested ... you can experiment with even higher crossovers as well.
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post #5057 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Hi,
I am a newbie when it comes to AVRs and Audyssey so please excuse what may be a dumb question.
At what stage in the Audyssey calibration process do you manually set your crossover ?
When I have carried out an Audyssey calibration with my 7010 I have never seen an option to enter my own crossover value. I know you can alter it after Audyssey is finished but doesn't this screw up the calibration that Audyssey has just done ?
Regards, Alex.
1. Adjustments to speaker (LARGE/SMALL, crossover, distance, volume) can all be made anytime by going to Manual Setup - Test Tones.
2. Audyssey does the EQ of the speakers from the -3db point to 20Khz. So raising the crossover has no impact on the EQ, however, if you lower the crossover, you introduce frequencies which have not been EQ'd. (eg. If crossover set at 100Hz and you lower it to 80Hz, then 80Hz - 100Hz is not EQ'd).
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post #5058 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Adjustments to speaker (LARGE/SMALL, crossover, distance, volume) can all be made anytime by going to Manual Setup - Test Tones.
2. Audyssey does the EQ of the speakers from the -3db point to 20Khz. So raising the crossover has no impact on the EQ, however, if you lower the crossover, you introduce frequencies which have not been EQ'd. (eg. If crossover set at 100Hz and you lower it to 80Hz, then 80Hz - 100Hz is not EQ'd).
Hi,
Thanks for that. Audyssey sets my Q Acoustic Concept 20 to crossover at 150, which I thought was a little high given that SVS , the makers of my sub recommended a crossover of just 60.
From what you have explained it probably should be left at 150 or I will introduce un - EQ'd frequencies.
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post #5059 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 05:56 AM
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Hi,
Thanks for that. Audyssey sets my Q Acoustic Concept 20 to crossover at 150, which I thought was a little high given that SVS , the makers of my sub recommended a crossover of just 60.
From what you have explained it probably should be left at 150 or I will introduce un - EQ'd frequencies.
Correct. How a speaker is spec'd by the mfr and how it actually reacts in your room can be very different, although speaker placement will affect this of course.
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post #5060 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:09 PM
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hello guys,

how is possible to enable hdmi passthrough?
i dont want to use always my main speakers during watching sports at night.
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post #5061 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:17 PM
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hello guys,

how is possible to enable hdmi passthrough?
i dont want to use always my main speakers during watching sports at night.
Not sure which AVR you have but in my Marantz I follow this: HDMI Setup. I have the HDMI Pass Through On and my Cable Box as source so that I dont need to engage the AVR or speakers when I watch news/shows which doesn't need added sound. I have the TV connected to AVR HDMI out and Cable box to AVR's Cable/SAT HDMI in. With Cable Box as Pass through source selected, while AVR is in standby mode and TV source as AVR (in my case HDMI4), I can watch the cable with my TV speakers. If I switch on the AVR, the sound goes to main speakers.

______________
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Spoiler!

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post #5062 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:20 PM
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Not sure which AVR you have but in my Marantz I follow this: HDMI Setup. I have the HDMI Pass Through On and my Cable Box as source so that I dont need to engage the AVR or speakers when I watch news/shows which doesn't need added sound. The AVR should be in standby mode.
i have marantz sr6010, how can i enable it? Where is this setting?
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post #5063 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:24 PM
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i have marantz sr6010, how can i enable it? Where is this setting?
Click this link for the Marantz 6010 manual and HDMI setup page

Marantz 6010 HDMI Setip

Switch on HDMI PassThrough and select a source for Pass Through.

I have the TV connected to AVR HDMI out and Cable box to AVR's Cable/SAT HDMI in. With Cable Box as Pass through source selected, while AVR is in standby mode and TV source as AVR (in my case HDMI4), I can watch the cable with my TV speakers. If I switch on the AVR, the sound goes to main speakers.
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______________
Thanks, Jay
Spoiler!
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post #5064 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:25 PM
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thanks a lot
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post #5065 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:28 PM
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hello guys,

how is possible to enable hdmi passthrough?
i dont want to use always my main speakers during watching sports at night.
By default from the factory, the CBL/SAT HDMI input will pass to the TV when the AVR is in Standby without having to make any changes.
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post #5066 of 12185 Old 06-08-2016, 01:44 PM
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thanks a lot
Most of the time (unless I am watching a movie or a fav show) I keep the AVR off for cable TV for all the news and sports stuff. Only glitch is when I select the TV input as AVR, the AVR comes on to life. You need to switch the AVR off to standby mode again and in few seconds the passthrough will start and can listen the audio through TV speakers. This is the HDMI handshake / Anynet coming into play which turns the AVR on.
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______________
Thanks, Jay
Spoiler!
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post #5067 of 12185 Old 06-09-2016, 01:47 AM
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Yes, noting that Zone 2 will only pass network sources, USB, AM/FM Tuner, and external devices also connected with an analog (red/white) cable.
Thanks for the reply but I'm still baffled and having limited success (= 0) connecting up wireless headphone transmitter and receiving audio through headphones. I revised my plan above and decided to feed the headphones via Pre-Out L & R on NR1606 but there doesn't appear to be any audio signal from the RCAs. What have I overlooked? I want to listen to audio from BluRay and Sat/Cbl, both connected to AVR by HDMI, on the headphones.

Thanks,
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post #5068 of 12185 Old 06-09-2016, 04:08 AM
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Is there any particular reason why the SR-7010 gets hot as a furnace? It is driving 2 small 8ohm speakers in a cabinet with open front and rear and nothing standing on top. In the same cabinet my old NAD T775 was happily driving 7 speakers and it didn't go past lukewarm, and that with a blu-ray player standing on top of it as well restricting airflow.

Tower Cinema - 9.1.6 in a 12'x12' room
Input : Nvidia Shield TV, Panasonic DMP-UB400
Magic : Marantz SR7010, Marantz SR6010, 2x NAD T743
Output : Panasonic TX65EZ952B, SVS PB13 Ultra, Monitor Audio GSLCR 2xGS20 2xGS10 4xGSFX 6xBX1
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post #5069 of 12185 Old 06-09-2016, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bteam View Post
Thanks for the reply but I'm still baffled and having limited success (= 0) connecting up wireless headphone transmitter and receiving audio through headphones. I revised my plan above and decided to feed the headphones via Pre-Out L & R on NR1606 but there doesn't appear to be any audio signal from the RCAs. What have I overlooked? I want to listen to audio from BluRay and Sat/Cbl, both connected to AVR by HDMI, on the headphones.

Thanks,
Stephen
As I previously noted, you can't listen to HDMI audio via the Zone 2 pre-outs, rather you would have to add analog audio cables (red/white) from both the Blu Ray player and the cable/sat box in addition to the HDMI cable. With the headphones connected to the FL/FR pre-outs, you'll have to raise the volume level of the FL/FR speakers quite high.
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post #5070 of 12185 Old 06-09-2016, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
Is there any particular reason why the SR-7010 gets hot as a furnace? It is driving 2 small 8ohm speakers in a cabinet with open front and rear and nothing standing on top. In the same cabinet my old NAD T775 was happily driving 7 speakers and it didn't go past lukewarm, and that with a blu-ray player standing on top of it as well restricting airflow.
The AVR shouldn't get too hot, however, the majority of the heat emanates from the video card. If you set ECO mode to ON, that should reduce the core temp by about 10 degrees F.
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7010 , av7702mkii , hdmi marantz nr1506 , Marantz , marantz 7702 256gb ssd , marantz sr5010 , no sound , nr1506 , NR1606 , SR5010 , sr6010 , sr7010 , subwoofer

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