*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 170 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5071 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Dolby Surround can work on Dolby encoded audio and PCM. DTS Neural: X can work on DTS encoded audio and PCM. You can't cross mix them like you used to be able to. This is being worked on and with a firmware update forthcoming.
Plus Neural X doesn't work without a centre speaker - the ceiling channels are silent..
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post #5072 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
Is there any particular reason why the SR-7010 gets hot as a furnace? It is driving 2 small 8ohm speakers in a cabinet with open front and rear and nothing standing on top. In the same cabinet my old NAD T775 was happily driving 7 speakers and it didn't go past lukewarm, and that with a blu-ray player standing on top of it as well restricting airflow.
I have my 7010 in a cabinet, with the front open. It is merely warm to touch, even after a whole weekend of movies..
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post #5073 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The AVR shouldn't get too hot, however, the majority of the heat emanates from the video card. If you set ECO mode to ON, that should reduce the core temp by about 10 degrees F.
Thanks, I will have a look at the ECO mode setting.


Should I consider getting a silent fan added?

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post #5074 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 07:54 AM
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No harm using a fan at all...
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post #5075 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
I have my 7010 in a cabinet, with the front open. It is merely warm to touch, even after a whole weekend of movies..
I will try the ECO mode to see how that works out, it is definitely a lot warmer than yours. At least going forward, none of the internal amps will be used. Now how much good that will do if the video card is causing the heat I don't know.

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post #5076 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
I will try the ECO mode to see how that works out, it is definitely a lot warmer than yours. At least going forward, none of the internal amps will be used. Now how much good that will do if the video card is causing the heat I don't know.
Get yourself an IR temp gun like the one below and you'll know for sure the temp .....

http://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperat.../dp/B00CVHIJDK
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post #5077 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris3G View Post
I understand, but this is not the behavior i am getting. Bitstream works as expected, but when the source is PCM i am not getting any center channel audio. My statement was an assumption based on the observed behavior, which apparently is incorrect.

That said, now that i know this is not normal, i still have no idea why it is functioning in this way for me.
When set for PCM, the receiver is getting a signal that has already been decoded, and in any setup, 5.1, 7.1, 9.1, plus Atmos configurations, the center channel is used for voices. If you do not have a center channel, you won't hear any voices. One thing you could do is turn on the speakers on your TV. Some TVs will output sound along with your surround system, this way you'll hear voices. I remember when some TVs allowed you to use its speakers as the center channel, but I haven't seen that in a while.

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post #5078 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 09:22 AM
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For atmos setup for my NR1606, I bought a pair of JBL control one. I just noticed after reaching that it is 4ohms. Is it OK if I use them as ceiling speakers or will it damage my receiver? My treat rest of the speaker setup is in my signature.

Also please suggest if Boston XL satellite is better in terms of driving compared to this jbl control one?

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post #5079 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 09:51 AM
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The NR1606 is in place and I love it. Very solid choice at $499, it's even overkill for my needs but who cares!!! Only waiting for a Sony S6700 Blu Ray player to be delivered to complete my 2.1 bedroom setup. BTW, I put a pair of AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3 120mm USB fans on the back of the NR1606 and they keep the whole rack very cool.



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post #5080 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murlidher View Post
For atmos setup for my NR1606, I bought a pair of JBL control one. I just noticed after reaching that it is 4ohms. Is it OK if I use them as ceiling speakers or will it damage my receiver? My treat rest of the speaker setup is in my signature.

Also please suggest if Boston XL satellite is better in terms of driving compared to this jbl control one?

Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk
Looks like the previous version jbl control one is 8ohms which I guess is comfortable to drive by NR1606 than the control one pro. Too bad I ordered wrong one 😞

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post #5081 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 10:39 AM
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Discrete Network chip reset (no settings lost)

1 - With the AVR powered ON, select "Online Music" as the input source.
2 - Simultaneously press/hold the "XXXXXXXX" (replace with buttons listed below) buttons on the front panel
3 - Hold the buttons for a few seconds until the display reads "Network Restart" and then release the buttons.


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SR6010 - TUNER PRESET CH + / SETUP

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post #5082 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As I previously noted, you can't listen to HDMI audio via the Zone 2 pre-outs, rather you would have to add analog audio cables (red/white) from both the Blu Ray player and the cable/sat box in addition to the HDMI cable. With the headphones connected to the FL/FR pre-outs, you'll have to raise the volume level of the FL/FR speakers quite high.
Although the manual says nothing about it, logically the pre-outs labeled "front" should be front l/r pre-outs, nothing to do with Zone 2. That's what I assume, I haven't tested it.
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post #5083 of 12181 Old 06-09-2016, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke M View Post
Although the manual says nothing about it, logically the pre-outs labeled "front" should be front l/r pre-outs, nothing to do with Zone 2. That's what I assume, I haven't tested it.
Correct.
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post #5084 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 02:12 PM
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Hi

After finishing Audyssey, I manually boost my dual sub by 6db each to 0db in manual setup menu. And I still don't hear much bass improvement. Then, I went to audio menu, there is one called subwoofer level adjust. After I turn it on and set it to 6db. The bass was indeed much better.

So my questions are:

1. why there is two ways to boost bass, one using subwoofer level adjustment in audio menu the other using manual setup in speaker menu? and which one should I use?

2. If I boost the sub in above both menus by 6db (audio menus and speaker menus), does it mean my total bass boost is 12db?

Thanks a lot for the help. I appreciate it.
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post #5085 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 02:16 PM
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You boosted 12 db for that particular source.
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post #5086 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
You boosted 12 db for that particular source.
Thanks gadgtfreek.

any difference between boosing bass using manual setup from speaker menu the same and boosing same db but from subwoofer level adjustment option in audio menu?

I was told that it is good to keep sub to below 0db after boosting. In my case, I have already boosted sub to 0db in the manual setup. on the top of it, I boost another 6 db from the other menu. So does it mean my sub actual level is at +6db already, which might not be good?
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post #5087 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 03:40 PM
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The way I understand it is, when setting levels in the speaker menu is it global. When you adjust in the audio menu, it adjusts up from your speaker menu setting even more, for that input. And I would prob avoid going +6 on the sub level in the AVR. If you want to adjust up more after Audyssey runs, increase your sub gain knob to where when Audyssey is complete, your speaker level setting for the sub(s) is around -10 or -11.

Currently mine end up around -9, and I boost them to -2 in the speaker section after XT32 runs.
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post #5088 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 04:53 PM
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Just checking to make sure I understand this correctly--
I set my full range front tower speakers to small when using a subwoofer (LFE) in a 5.1 set up. All is well there.

But when I listen to 2-channel in direct mode, will my towers automatically switch to full range?
I don't need to go into the menu and select full, right?

Thanks.
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post #5089 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by maestro50 View Post
Just checking to make sure I understand this correctly--
I set my full range front tower speakers to small when using a subwoofer (LFE) in a 5.1 set up. All is well there.

But when I listen to 2-channel in direct mode, will my towers automatically switch to full range?
I don't need to go into the menu and select full, right?

Thanks.
I'd go to Direct or Pure mode and it should revert to no processing/bass management applied. But even with music, bass management can be beneficial as almost no mortally priced tower can reproduce low frequencies that well.
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post #5090 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
The way I understand it is, when setting levels in the speaker menu is it global. When you adjust in the audio menu, it adjusts up from your speaker menu setting even more, for that input. And I would prob avoid going +6 on the sub level in the AVR. If you want to adjust up more after Audyssey runs, increase your sub gain knob to where when Audyssey is complete, your speaker level setting for the sub(s) is around -10 or -11.

Currently mine end up around -9, and I boost them to -2 in the speaker section after XT32 runs.
Thanks gadgtfreek. Ok I will rerun audyssey to get -10db then boost up .
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post #5091 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
I'd go to Direct or Pure mode and it should revert to no processing/bass management applied. But even with music, bass management can be beneficial as almost no mortally priced tower can reproduce low frequencies that well.
I understand this in theory. But no matter what I've tried, the imaging and sense of realism is always better in direct or pure to me.
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post #5092 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by maestro50 View Post
I understand this in theory. But no matter what I've tried, the imaging and sense of realism is always better in direct or pure to me.
Sub positioning and integration is a time consuming process and you need to have proper acoustic room treatments as well. Once you get things dialed in, it's pretty freakin' great!
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post #5093 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 06:55 PM
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Sub positioning and integration is a time consuming process and you need to have proper acoustic room treatments as well. Once you get things dialed in, it's pretty freakin' great!
Thanks,
May I ask, what is the global setting to start with for sub integration in stereo? Do I do my experimenting/adjusting within the "stereo" setting of the AVR? (I have a 6010)
Do you engage Audyssey?
There is no LFE channel in stereo, so do I have to use LFE+ Main?
I enjoy tweaking and experimenting, but this oddly confusing.
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post #5094 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by maestro50 View Post
Thanks,
May I ask, what is the global setting to start with for sub integration in stereo? Do I do my experimenting/adjusting within the "stereo" setting of the AVR? (I have a 6010)
Do you engage Audyssey?
There is no LFE channel in stereo, so do I have to use LFE+ Main?
I enjoy tweaking and experimenting, but this oddly confusing.
Yes, you would engage Audyssey unless you're using an external room calibration unit (like Dirac) and have all your speakers active... it's a global calibration for movies or music content... it doesn't care.

You use the same bass management crossover you do with movies (some larger towers can be set lower than the THX "average" of 80 Hz depending on their bass reproduction capabilities, but I would never leave them at LARGE). You don't want to use LFE + Main because that produces double bass.

There is an Audyssey thread on AVS that gives specific hints and tips for getting the most out of the software. Plus you want to do the ol' classic sub crawl trick before doing anything to lessen the influence of room peaks and nulls.
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Last edited by Dan Hitchman; 06-10-2016 at 07:08 PM.
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post #5095 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Yes, you would engage Audyssey unless you're using an external room calibration unit (like Dirac) and have all your speakers active... it's a global calibration for movies or music content... it doesn't care.

You use the same bass management crossover you do with movies (some larger towers can be set lower than the THX "average" of 80 Hz depending on their bass reproduction capabilities, but I would never leave them at LARGE). You don't want to use LFE + Main because that produces double bass.

There is an Audyssey thread on AVS that gives specific hints and tips for getting the most out of the software. Plus you want to do the ol' classic sub crawl trick before doing anything to lessen the influence of room peaks and nulls.
Thank you.
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post #5096 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke M View Post
Although the manual says nothing about it, logically the pre-outs labeled "front" should be front l/r pre-outs, nothing to do with Zone 2. That's what I assume, I haven't tested it.
In case anyone else wants to configure the receiver similarly to power a pair of Sennheiser RS140 wireless headphones from Zone 2 on a NR-1606 AVR
Yes, the source player e.g. BluRay needs L&R analog audio out and be connected to one of the 3 analog inputs on the receiver These inputs have to be assigned to receive a signal. The Zone 2 level needs to be set at around 95 but don't adjust the L or R levels. Leave them on 0dB.
It helped me to set up zone 2 with an internet radio station to e the system working then work from there.
I've yet to estbalish how the PRE OUT left and right work but guess the level is set by the receiver main outputs in which case it's going to be the same level as the main speakers.
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post #5097 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 10:39 PM
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Hi all, up front, I'm a noob, out of my comfort zone and hope I'm in the right place. I've been looking for answers to an audio issue that started 5 months ago, shortly after replacing my old receiver and I've found nothing in that time. I hope someone can help me by me posting my issues specifically. Let me know if I can explain anything further.

Setup: Sony TV KDL55W800B, Mac Mini (2011), ATV4, Oppo Bluray BDP-83, PS4, all connected to Marantz receiver SR6010, via HDMI. Issues started when I replaced my old Marantz SR7002 with the SR6010 in January.

Issue: Audio playback through the Mac mini (my media centre) was distorting sound intermittently. I'd be watching a show and every second sentence would drop out, or the sound would distort entirely, and then come back, completely at random. I initially assumed it was a VLC playback issue thru the Mac mini. I bought an Apple TV (Gen 4) to remove VLC playback from my setup in February & playback was fine, but amp started switching to AirPlay and zero'ing volume randomly. (Turned off ATV auto remote & devices, issue persists). Bluray & ATV started replicating the initial sound issue described by April. Volume now also seems to increase and decrease during playback randomly. These same issues are now witnessed using VLC, QuickTime, Plex (Mac mini), various blurays (Oppo & PS4), iView, Plex, Netflix, Stan (ATV). There's no consistency to when the sound will fail, or on which device. The only common element in the Marantz. I don't know the correct word but the speaking appears to get pitchy right before the problem hits, it's the first sign that the audio is about to malfunction.

I also have an issue that the receiver display will state 'muted' + mute icon on tv screen, yet I'll have full sound that I can adjust (also random & cannot replicate at will). I also find that when the receiver is turned off & the TV remains on that devices plugged into the receiver will sometimes still work through tv alone (audio & display).

Solutions tried:
- Introduced ATV & removed VLC use (problem now occurs when using ATV).
- Replaced all HDMI cables (no result).
- Turned off ATV auto remote control (as per idownloadblog article) (no result).
- Disconnected & reset receiver from factory settings, problem free for 4 weeks before issues resumed (in May 2016). Disconnecting power fixes issues from 30mins, up to 3 days before recommencing at random times, on any or all devices through receiver (results vary, problem remains)
- Turned off Eco mode on receiver (no result).

Any ideas besides returning to the store and hoping they can replicate these faults? I have captured some footage, but it seems the surest way to fix the problem is to try & record the fault with my iPhone.
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post #5098 of 12181 Old 06-10-2016, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The AVR shouldn't get too hot, however, the majority of the heat emanates from the video card. If you set ECO mode to ON, that should reduce the core temp by about 10 degrees F.
Hi,
My 7010 also runs very hot and is sat in the open with nothing on top of it.
I wonder if you would be kind enough JD, to explain what turning the eco mode on actually does ?
I always imagined, but don't know for sure, that it would reduce the available power to the speakers and thus may affect audio performance.
If it is actually only affecting power to the video card, and given that I have video conversion set to Off them maybe I could use eco without any downside. Am I on the right track here ?
Thanks in advance.
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post #5099 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by maestro50 View Post
Thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Yes, you would engage Audyssey unless you're using an external room calibration unit (like Dirac) and have all your speakers active... it's a global calibration for movies or music content... it doesn't care.

You use the same bass management crossover you do with movies (some larger towers can be set lower than the THX "average" of 80 Hz depending on their bass reproduction capabilities, but I would never leave them at LARGE). You don't want to use LFE + Main because that produces double bass.

There is an Audyssey thread on AVS that gives specific hints and tips for getting the most out of the software. Plus you want to do the ol' classic sub crawl trick before doing anything to lessen the influence of room peaks and nulls.
Hi,
Being a noob I'm a bit confused by the LFE and the LFE plus Mains setting and wonder if you could help me to understand.

Looking in the Setup menu /Speakers/Manual Setup/Bass it says :
LFE + Main : Plays low range and LFE signals of all channels.
LFE : Plays low range and LFE signals of channels set to small.

As all my speakers are set to small then I presume either setting will give the exact same result ?
It seems to follow that there would be a chance of double bass (bass being played from speakers and subwoofer) only from any speakers set to large and with LFE + Mains selected.

Am I getting this right or am I misunderstanding something ?

Thanks in advance.
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post #5100 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Hi,
My 7010 also runs very hot and is sat in the open with nothing on top of it.
I wonder if you would be kind enough JD, to explain what turning the eco mode on actually does ?
I always imagined, but don't know for sure, that it would reduce the available power to the speakers and thus may affect audio performance.

If it is actually only affecting power to the video card, and given that I have video conversion set to Off them maybe I could use eco without any downside. Am I on the right track here ?
Thanks in advance.
Although it reduces available power, if you are using fairly sensitive speakers (eg. 90db+), there should still be more than enough available power to reach near reference volume levels.


Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Hi,
Being a noob I'm a bit confused by the LFE and the LFE plus Mains setting and wonder if you could help me to understand.

Looking in the Setup menu /Speakers/Manual Setup/Bass it says :
LFE + Main : Plays low range and LFE signals of all channels.
LFE : Plays low range and LFE signals of channels set to small.

As all my speakers are set to small then I presume either setting will give the exact same result ?
It seems to follow that there would be a chance of double bass (bass being played from speakers and subwoofer) only from any speakers set to large and with LFE + Mains selected.

Am I getting this right or am I misunderstanding something ?

Thanks in advance.

1. Correct.
2. Correct.
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