*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 171 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although it reduces available power, if you are using fairly sensitive speakers (eg. 90db+), there should still be more than enough available power to reach near reference volume levels.
So ECO mode is the preferred setting when using the 7010 as a pre-pro? I guess we can't switch off the amps completely in this model right?

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post #5102 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 02:45 AM
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1. Correct.
2. Correct.[/quote]
Thank you, that makes perfect sense.

Last edited by alexbarbel; 06-11-2016 at 02:50 AM.
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post #5103 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although it reduces available power, if you are using fairly sensitive speakers (eg. 90db+), there should still be more than enough available power to reach near reference volume.
Thanks for that but I'm still a tad confused. If I use eco and play to reference volume will that generate the same heat as not using eco and playing to reference volume ? Or will less power be used in other non critical areas which would reduce the heat generated ?
The other point is that my speakers are rated at 6 Ohms with a sensitivity of 88dB and my ceilings at 6 Ohms sensitivity of 86dB. Do you think eco would suite these ?
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post #5104 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
So ECO mode is the preferred setting when using the 7010 as a pre-pro? I guess we can't switch off the amps completely in this model right?
Not necessarily preferred, but suggested to lower the core temp yes. And no, cannot switch off the amps at all.
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post #5105 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Thanks for that but I'm still a tad confused. If I use eco and play to reference volume will that generate the same heat as not using eco and playing to reference volume ? Or will less power be used in other non critical areas which would reduce the heat generated ?
The other point is that my speakers are rated at 6 Ohms with a sensitivity of 88dB and my ceilings at 6 Ohms sensitivity of 86dB. Do you think eco would suite these ?
1. ECO mode should reduce the core temp.
2. It's your setup. Get an IR temp gun and check the results for yourself.
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post #5106 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although it reduces available power, if you are using fairly sensitive speakers (eg. 90db+), there should still be more than enough available power to reach near reference volume levels.





1. Correct.
2. Correct.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. ECO mode should reduce the core temp.
2. It's your setup. Get an IR temp gun and check the results for yourself.
Thanks JD,
Sorry to be a pain but I'm new to all this and not getting any younger I'm afraid.
I do enjoy my new 7010 but must admit I'm struggling to realise it's full potential.
I also have to keep costs down as I am now on a pension so unless I can find a very cheap IR heat gun then it will have to be the hand test I'm afraid.
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post #5107 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
Thanks JD,
Sorry to be a pain but I'm new to all this and not getting any younger I'm afraid.
I do enjoy my new 7010 but must admit I'm struggling to realise it's full potential.
I also have to keep costs down as I am now on a pension so unless I can find a very cheap IR heat gun then it will have to be the hand test I'm afraid.
Do you have $16?

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Tempera...=1&*entries*=0
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post #5108 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
I do have the equivalent to $16 - I'm in the UK.
Thanks for the link but I will probably need to look on Amazon UK.
I must say that I am surprised how cheap these things are .
Thanks for the heads up and the valuable info you have given me.
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post #5109 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 04:09 AM
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Personally I don't bother with Eco, but the temperature is fine in my cabinet. If one is worried, just add a USB fan, and chill
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post #5110 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 04:17 AM
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Personally I don't bother with Eco, but the temperature is fine in my cabinet. If one is worried, just add a USB fan, and chill
Hi Pete,
The thing that intrigues me is the big differences that people report. Some say the unit barely gets warm and others say it is almost too hot to touch.
Mine is somewhere between but hotter than I expected from my experience with various stereo amps.
It has never cut out and so I presume it is OK and I will be able to shut the central heating off in my cinema room next winter !
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post #5111 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by alexbarbel View Post
I do have the equivalent to $16 - I'm in the UK.
Thanks for the link but I will probably need to look on Amazon UK.
I must say that I am surprised how cheap these things are .
Thanks for the heads up and the valuable info you have given me.
As this is a USA/CA based site, helps if you add "UK" to your Profile: Location setting.
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post #5112 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As this is a USA/CA based site, helps if you add "UK" to your Profile: Location setting.
OK, will do.
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post #5113 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 06:52 AM
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Plenty of IR thermometers off ebay UK or Amazon UK too mate
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post #5114 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 07:04 AM
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Plenty of IR thermometers off ebay UK or Amazon UK too mate
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the input. I have found some at very reasonable prices.
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post #5115 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. ECO mode should reduce the core temp.
2. It's your setup. Get an IR temp gun and check the results for yourself.
#2 is a great suggestion: Infrared temperature guns are really wonderful, and under appreciated, tools. In addition to understanding the temperature of AV equipment they can be used to evaluate the effectiveness and evenness of wall and ceiling insulation for potential upgrades. Wonder why your AC runs so much? A reading on an outside wall of your house in direct sun will typically show a temperature of 140 degrees or more, when the outside temperature is only 90 degrees. Shading a house with trees or the like can pay dividends in hot climates. A continuing use is in cooking. An IR gun will tell in seconds the temperature of a pan on the stove, which is critical for good results, and consistent results over time. While the gun may read 15 degrees too cool to the bottom of a pan through water. it is consistent, and will tell progress in determining whether that big pot of water will ever be ready for spaghetti.

Besides basic readings of temperatures from various parts of AV equipment, the device can of course be used to obtain temperatures over time. If you have an amplifier or other piece of equipment that you feels sounds best when warmed up, then a series of reading over several minutes can tell when that occurs.

Another low cost piece of equipment that is invaluable is a Kill A Watt Monitor. Connect one to your AV7010. Without a load on the AV7010 you'll know how much energy it basically uses. Switch from regular to ECO modes and you'll know the difference in heat output with no load under these two different modes, as well as energy consumption of course. Run the AV7010 for a week or so under each mode and you'll know the difference in energy usage between the two modes. Obviously there are lots of other uses for this device. The lowest cost version, linked below, is the most straightforward to use. It looses its reading when unplugged, but that normally isn't a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...words=kilowatt
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post #5116 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
#2 is a great suggestion: Infrared temperature guns are really wonderful, and under appreciated, tools. In addition to understanding the temperature of AV equipment they can be used to evaluate the effectiveness and evenness of wall and ceiling insulation for potential upgrades. Wonder why your AC runs so much? A reading on an outside wall of your house in direct sun will typically show a temperature of 140 degrees or more, when the outside temperature is only 90 degrees. Shading a house with trees or the like can pay dividends in hot climates. A continuing use is in cooking. An IR gun will tell in seconds the temperature of a pan on the stove, which is critical for good results, and consistent results over time. While the gun may read 15 degrees too cool to the bottom of a pan through water. it is consistent, and will tell progress in determining whether that big pot of water will ever be ready for spaghetti.

Besides basic readings of temperatures from various parts of AV equipment, the device can of course be used to obtain temperatures over time. If you have an amplifier or other piece of equipment that you feels sounds best when warmed up, then a series of reading over several minutes can tell when that occurs.

Another low cost piece of equipment that is invaluable is a Kill A Watt Monitor. Connect one to your AV7010. Without a load on the AV7010 you'll know how much energy it basically uses. Switch from regular to ECO modes and you'll know the difference in heat output with no load under these two different modes, as well as energy consumption of course. Run the AV7010 for a week or so under each mode and you'll know the difference in energy usage between the two modes. Obviously there are lots of other uses for this device. The lowest cost version, linked below, is the most straightforward to use. It looses its reading when unplugged, but that normally isn't a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...words=kilowatt
Hi,
Thanks for an interesting post. I was wondering what I might use the heat gun for after I had evaluated my amp with it. Now I have some ideas.
The Kill A Watt is also worth looking at with energy costs so high.
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post #5117 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 08:55 AM
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How much room are people leaving above and below the SR7010 for cooling?
I have a two post rack, the front will eventually be covered with a door but the sides and back are wide open to a storage room..... which I am LOVING for access

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post #5118 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 08:58 AM
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Belkin makes a energy monitor device, you can get one from Amazon UK with a UK plug. Less than 30 quid..
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post #5119 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 08:58 AM
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How much room are people leaving above and below the SR7010 for cooling?
I have a two post rack, the front will eventually be covered with a door but the sides and back are wide open to a storage room..... which I am LOVING for access
In my case the unit is open all round and with nothing above but it has no room underneath.
It still can get quite hot though.
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post #5120 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 09:00 AM
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Belkin makes a energy monitor device, you can get one from Amazon UK with a UK plug. Less than 30 quid..
Hi Pete,
Once again indebted to you . Thanks.
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post #5121 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 09:55 AM
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Hi Pete,
The thing that intrigues me is the big differences that people report. Some say the unit barely gets warm and others say it is almost too hot to touch.
Mine is somewhere between but hotter than I expected from my experience with various stereo amps.
It has never cut out and so I presume it is OK and I will be able to shut the central heating off in my cinema room next winter !
Without a schematic it's hard to get a really good idea of why these variations in heat output from the SR7010 may occur, but hey, why be confused by the facts?! Here are some ideas:

Sources of heat:

Video/initial audio process board: This board has to have fixed, closely controlled, low voltages to operate correctly. It like generates quite a bit of heat since many of its circuits operate at very high frequencies; that's why it's the top board in the unit, but that heat generation shouldn't vary greatly between units unless the board is redesigned.

HDAM Audio Board: The analog circuits on this board operate in Class A and thus generate significant heat. The circuits appear to be supplied by resister based current sources (based on a circuit diagram from the AV7702) and hopefully by regulated voltages supplies. All of these components generate significant heat, but it's hard to see how their operation would vary significantly between units, again unless redesigned. The AV8802 pre-pro has a balanced output and twice as much of this circuitry. The circuit boards that contain the circuitry are mounted vertically to aid in dissipating the heat, which should the circuitry does generate significant heat. Quality analog circuitry typically, but not always, generates a lot of heat.

Power Supply: The big transformer perhaps only supplies the output power amplifiers. It's an EI type which is less efficient than a toroidal type unit, but should be quite consistent in operation between samples of the same product. Likely several other power supplies are present, some switching types. It seems unlikely that they generate a lot of heat so even if their heat output varies that shouldn't greatly affect the total heat output of the overall unit.

Power Amplifier: This seems a likely spot for variation. The circuitry appears to be Class B, likely with a goal of optimum bias. Some call it AB. The bias for each amplifier channel is likely set by varying a variable resister at the factory based on a voltage reading at one or more test points. If the bias is set too low then the amplifier channel will suffer too much crossover distortion. If it is set too high, the channel will operate in Class A for more of the signal swing and generate a lot more heat. Likely this setting is to be done when the unit is at a typical idling temperature. If the unit is too warm or too cool, the operator is having an off day, or any number of other variables are not as specified then the unit may run hotter or cooler in normal use, because of the actual bias setting.

Other ideas are that the product as designed was found to run too hot so the size of the output resistors was increased. This likely would cause the bias current to be lower with less heat generated. A set of lower value resisters may have been used for some reason, perhaps the unit ran cooler than expected so bias was increased, which would raise the bias current. A higher bias current should allow more tolerance for good bias tracking with unit temperature changes without risking increased crossover distortion. There are lots of reasons for potential variation in the setting, such as known or unknown changes in components or their tolerances. It seems probable that the setting of the bias for all the channels would be likely to be consistent if unit temperature is the reason for the variation.

The above is frankly a lot of guess work. What are the thoughts of others on this subject?
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post #5122 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
Without a schematic it's hard to get a really good idea of why these variations in heat output from the SR7010 may occur, but hey, why be confused by the facts?! Here are some ideas:

Sources of heat:

Video/initial audio process board: This board has to have fixed, closely controlled, low voltages to operate correctly. It like generates quite a bit of heat since many of its circuits operate at very high frequencies; that's why it's the top board in the unit, but that heat generation shouldn't vary greatly between units unless the board is redesigned.

HDAM Audio Board: The analog circuits on this board operate in Class A and thus generate significant heat. The circuits appear to be supplied by resister based current sources (based on a circuit diagram from the AV7702) and hopefully by regulated voltages supplies. All of these components generate significant heat, but it's hard to see how their operation would vary significantly between units, again unless redesigned. The AV8802 pre-pro has a balanced output and twice as much of this circuitry. The circuit boards that contain the circuitry are mounted vertically to aid in dissipating the heat, which should the circuitry does generate significant heat. Quality analog circuitry typically, but not always, generates a lot of heat.

Power Supply: The big transformer perhaps only supplies the output power amplifiers. It's an EI type which is less efficient than a toroidal type unit, but should be quite consistent in operation between samples of the same product. Likely several other power supplies are present, some switching types. It seems unlikely that they generate a lot of heat so even if their heat output varies that shouldn't greatly affect the total heat output of the overall unit.

Power Amplifier: This seems a likely spot for variation. The circuitry appears to be Class B, likely with a goal of optimum bias. Some call it AB. The bias for each amplifier channel is likely set by varying a variable resister at the factory based on a voltage reading at one or more test points. If the bias is set too low then the amplifier channel will suffer too much crossover distortion. If it is set too high, the channel will operate in Class A for more of the signal swing and generate a lot more heat. Likely this setting is to be done when the unit is at a typical idling temperature. If the unit is too warm or too cool, the operator is having an off day, or any number of other variables are not as specified then the unit may run hotter or cooler in normal use, because of the actual bias setting.

Other ideas are that the product as designed was found to run too hot so the size of the output resistors was increased. This likely would cause the bias current to be lower with less heat generated. A set of lower value resisters may have been used for some reason, perhaps the unit ran cooler than expected so bias was increased, which would raise the bias current. A higher bias current should allow more tolerance for good bias tracking with unit temperature changes without risking increased crossover distortion. There are lots of reasons for potential variation in the setting, such as known or unknown changes in components or their tolerances. It seems probable that the setting of the bias for all the channels would be likely to be consistent if unit temperature is the reason for the variation.

The above is frankly a lot of guess work. What are the thoughts of others on this subject?
I can't pretend to know enough to start speculating but your idea about the Power Amp being involved in variation seems to make sense.
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post #5123 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 10:26 AM
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Don't forget that the US uses 110 Volt, while (nearly) the reset of the world uses 230 V. Maybe that makes the difference in reported heat?
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OK so I just recently picked me up a SR6010 after my old AVR died along with my Sub. At first I wasnt exactly happy with the Marantz but after tweeking some of the settings in the menu and a couple weeks of use. I have decided that its a keeper but so far I have just been running it as a 2 channel setup. I ended up turning off Eco Mode that really helped with the punch that seemed to be lacking compared to my old unit.
Today I replaced my cheap old speaker cables with a Spool of 14 guage wire and some proper banana plugs boy did that make a world of difference. So then I put Alan Parsons Eye in the Sky on my Debut III with an OM20 stylus using the built in phono stage. Sat back and listened for a bit and thought man this thing is really better and better every day. Im still playing with and learning about all the features built into this thing. So Im playing around with the settings menu and come across a setting that lets you adjust the input signal so I click on it and low and behold it lets me adjust the signal on the the Phono stage.
So I play around with the settings a bit and find that +2DB sounds simply amazing with my setup. I go into the same settings for the Tuner, CD Player ect. Now I can change sources to whatever I want and the Volume is the same with now jumping up and down between sources. This is so COOL I put on Rush Moving Pictures on CD and Vinyl stand so my Brother and his Wife cant see what source I am using and have them guess which source which. The greatest part of it all is neither of them guessed the right one LOL
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post #5125 of 12181 Old 06-11-2016, 11:23 PM
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OK so I just recently picked me up a SR6010 after my old AVR died along with my Sub. At first I wasnt exactly happy with the Marantz but after tweeking some of the settings in the menu and a couple weeks of use. I have decided that its a keeper but so far I have just been running it as a 2 channel setup. I ended up turning off Eco Mode that really helped with the punch that seemed to be lacking compared to my old unit.
Today I replaced my cheap old speaker cables with a Spool of 14 guage wire and some proper banana plugs boy did that make a world of difference. So then I put Alan Parsons Eye in the Sky on my Debut III with an OM20 stylus using the built in phono stage. Sat back and listened for a bit and thought man this thing is really better and better every day. Im still playing with and learning about all the features built into this thing. So Im playing around with the settings menu and come across a setting that lets you adjust the input signal so I click on it and low and behold it lets me adjust the signal on the the Phono stage.
So I play around with the settings a bit and find that +2DB sounds simply amazing with my setup. I go into the same settings for the Tuner, CD Player ect. Now I can change sources to whatever I want and the Volume is the same with now jumping up and down between sources. This is so COOL I put on Rush Moving Pictures on CD and Vinyl stand so my Brother and his Wife cant see what source I am using and have them guess which source which. The greatest part of it all is neither of them guessed the right one LOL
Isn't it just great when you choose a piece of kit that really works for you !?
I have only had my 7010 for a few weeks but am really appreciating it. My only gripe would be the User Manual which is over long and not very well laid out, but I will get there in the end.
When I get new gear I always like to optimise for the best performance but I find that sometimes the manual lacks information about the technical side of what some options are actually doing. That is when a forum like this is so great. Some of the guys on here really know their stuff.
Good luck with your 6010 and ENJOY !
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post #5126 of 12181 Old 06-12-2016, 05:14 AM
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Isn't it just great when you choose a piece of kit that really works for you !?
I have only had my 7010 for a few weeks but am really appreciating it. My only gripe would be the User Manual which is over long and not very well laid out, but I will get there in the end.
When I get new gear I always like to optimise for the best performance but I find that sometimes the manual lacks information about the technical side of what some options are actually doing. That is when a forum like this is so great. Some of the guys on here really know their stuff.
Good luck with your 6010 and ENJOY !
Yep sure is and I originally was going to go with a Yamaha but the store had both. The Yamaha was a nice unit to but I thought it sounded way to digital and processed. My old AVR had all that DSP stuff but I always used the same three settings.
I agree with you on the manual for as much as they charge for the stuff these days least they could do is give you a printed copy that explains everything clearly. AVS rocks I don't post here very much but I do a lot of reading/research before I buy anything.
Enjoy your 7010 and good luck
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post #5127 of 12181 Old 06-12-2016, 06:59 AM
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I think it is more the amps than the audio and video circuitry. My AV7702II is much cooler running than any Denon AVR I have had in the same spot, even at idle.

There is always this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amp-Receiver...MAAOSwBLlU9jVO

XBR65A9G / XBR65A8F
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post #5128 of 12181 Old 06-12-2016, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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^ I have David's cooling solution (quiet fans with temperature adjustable setting) for the Marantz SR-7009 and two number of Emotiva XPA-5 external amps. David's cooling solutions ensure the Marantz and Emotiva are not getting hot. Highly recommended.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #5129 of 12181 Old 06-12-2016, 08:45 AM
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I had it on my 4520ci, worked great IMO.

XBR65A9G / XBR65A8F
Oppo UDP-203 / Sony X800M2
AVRX6500H / RP-8000F / RP-504C / RP-502S / FV15HP
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post #5130 of 12181 Old 06-12-2016, 11:28 AM
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My dad needs a new receiver and need to know if he'll need one with HDMI 2.0 if he gets a new 4K tv? Receivers without the newest HDMI won't be able to realize the full extent of the tv without it....correct? He really doesn't need one of the newest receivers with Atmos, etc. so I was hoping to get him a refurbished one that came out a couple of years ago like the sr7008.


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7010 , av7702mkii , hdmi marantz nr1506 , Marantz , marantz 7702 256gb ssd , marantz sr5010 , no sound , nr1506 , NR1606 , SR5010 , sr6010 , sr7010 , subwoofer

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