*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 251 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7501 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Marantz doesn't recommend connecting the AVR and an external amp to the same speakers. If you want more power, then simply purchase a much more powerful external amp (eg. Emotiva XPA-2 @ 300W), however, in most cases (unless using 4-ohm speakers at loud volume levels), the "NR" model will provide more than enough power, so use the AVR first before putting additional money into an external amp.
The thing is that I'm buying a common set of separates. My first choice at the moment is a combination of Marantz PM8005, SA8005 and NR1607. And because the 70w rms of the PM8005 may not be enough for the 150w rms of the Klipsch RP-280f I thought of biamping with the NR1607 which supports it in order to provide a combined current higher than 100w. Does this make sense? Is it feasible?

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post #7502 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feregorn View Post
The thing is that I'm buying a common set of separates. My first choice at the moment is a combination of Marantz PM8005, SA8005 and NR1607. And because the 70w rms of the PM8005 may not be enough for the 150w rms of the Klipsch RP-280f I thought of biamping with the NR1607 which supports it in order to provide a combined current higher than 100w. Does this make sense? Is it feasible?

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
The Klipsch speakers are known for their great efficiency. If you plan on going deaf go ahead and feed them 150W, I would be surprised if you ever will use more then 10W during your listing, probably closer to 1W.

Also as JD said, it isn't recommended to use external and internal amps at the same time.
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post #7503 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mashie Saldana View Post
The Klipsch speakers are known for their great efficiency. If you plan on going deaf go ahead and feed them 150W, I would be surprised if you ever will use more then 10W during your listing, probably closer to 1W.

Also as JD said, it isn't recommended to use external and internal amps at the same time.
But having more power doesn't mean better control over the sound on lower listening levels too? Plus when you invite people over, more power is important in order to fill the room with sound at similar listening levels... Isn't that right?

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post #7504 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pupator View Post
Thanks for the help. A few things to correct for others, though:

You are correct that the front left is first checked, but if it doesn't detect the mic, you can't even start Audyssey. It tells you to plug in a mic before it can start.
The pressure-switch closure which detects the presence of the microphone plug (and enables Audyssey calibration) is separate from the contact which transmits the microphone's audio signal voltages. There have been several reports of the microphone being detected but the speaker audio not which were corrected by cleaning the socket.

Quote:
My problem wasn't that the mic wasn't hearing the speaker. It's that the speaker wasn't making any noise.

I tried unplugging the receiver for ten minutes, and that did not fix the problem.

Then I tried a factory reset:
1) Turn off the power using Power Button .
2) Press Power Button while simultaneously pressing M-DAX and ZONE2 SOURCE.
3) Remove your fingers from the two buttons when “Initialized” appears on the display.

That fixed it. Of course, it also lost all my settings, but that was the price to pay to have it work.
It's good to know that you were able to recover by doing a reset.

Since you have a 2015 non-HEOS device, it also includes a Web interface which can be used to save and restore all of its settings to your computer. That includes the current Audyssey too, though, and there's no way to do a partial restore.

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post #7505 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feregorn View Post
But having more power doesn't mean better control over the sound on lower listening levels too? Plus when you invite people over, more power is important in order to fill the room with sound at similar listening levels... Isn't that right?

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
Modern amp designs have evolved so that they have the same quality of control over the audio no matter what sound level they're delivering. However it's certainly true that you'll need to turn up the volume if you want to drown out all the conversation. Note, however, that a 2x increase in power provides only a 3dB increase in sound level, while an apparent doubling of volume requires a 10dB increase in sound level. The sensitivity of our hearing is very non-linear, which is why sound levels are best measured in dB, not in Watts (power).

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post #7506 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Feregorn View Post
The thing is that I'm buying a common set of separates. My first choice at the moment is a combination of Marantz PM8005, SA8005 and NR1607. And because the 70w rms of the PM8005 may not be enough for the 150w rms of the Klipsch RP-280f
The 150W value is the maximum power that the speakers can accept without being damaged, not the amount of power needed to produce an adequate sound level.

You can calculate the amount of power needed to produce a specific sound level at your main listening position by knowing the measured efficiency of a speaker, which for the RP-280FA is 92.5dB/W/meter, a relatively high value.

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I thought of biamping with the NR1607 which supports it in order to provide a combined current higher than 100w. Does this make sense? Is it feasible?
Most of the power is used to drive the woofers. Biamping separates the woofers from the high-frequency drivers. Since the drivers require a relatively small amount of power, the additional headroom provided to the woofers by offloading them is a small fraction of the total required to reach a particular sound level. In other words, its not enough to make an audible difference. In most cases the advantages provided by "passive biamping" (biamping done without introducing external active crossover networks) are more emotional than physical.
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post #7507 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 09:06 AM
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Definitely not true.
I have biamp front speakers from mm8077 and is big difference in plus.
I'm thinking to biamp central to.
Low from mm8077 and high from sr7010.
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post #7508 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 09:09 AM
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Update on problem with MkII "cannot connect to internet". There was no problem with the internet and soft reset and microprocessor reset didn't work. Comcast had been having a lot of internet problems in Houston. JD advised full system reset (page 1 of this thread), but complete new setup would be required. Finishing up my new 12' X 12' RS 600 HT and ready to rerun Audessey, so I did the full system reset--ALL WORKING NOW. Downloaded the new cross-mixing update and will finish up the room.

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post #7509 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EdQ View Post
Does this look correct? Trying some non-atmos signals.
Looks like the input signal is stereo. Vudu says it's DD
Check the BD player and ensure it is set to Dolby Digital not PCM.

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post #7510 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by quinn4528 View Post
Check the BD player and ensure it is set to Dolby Digital not PCM.
The source is from Vudu (Roku 4 Ultra). It can play Atmos so I am sure it is set up correctly.
From what I am reading, I didn't realize there is DD 2.0?

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post #7511 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 10:45 AM
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I just bought a refurb Marantz 5010. It is working great, and I finally have on-screen display of volume (which my other receiver lacked). The problem is that my Samsung plasma has a resolution of 1024x768. If I set my home theater computer (via windows media center or Kodi) to a resolution of 1024x768, the on-screen display for the Marantz goes away. From a TV perspective, 1024x768 looks great (no overscan), but I no longer get the on-screen display. I need to select 1080i or 1080p or whatever the Marantz suggests to get the on-screen display, but the overscan drives me crazy (that is, the picture physically goes off the screen, so that the close X for instance is barely there in the upper right corner). Is there a way to correct this and use 1024x768? Should I turn the IP scaler off? Or would that not help?

Also, is there a way (for the main zone) to listen to one input while viewing another input? Say, listen to CD while pictures are being shown via WMC over HDMI?

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post #7512 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post
I just bought a refurb Marantz 5010. It is working great, and I finally have on-screen display of volume (which my other receiver lacked). The problem is that my Samsung plasma has a resolution of 1024x768. If I set my home theater computer (via windows media center or Kodi) to a resolution of 1024x768, the on-screen display for the Marantz goes away. From a TV perspective, 1024x768 looks great (no overscan), but I no longer get the on-screen display. I need to select 1080i or 1080p or whatever the Marantz suggests to get the on-screen display, but the overscan drives me crazy (that is, the picture physically goes off the screen, so that the close X for instance is barely there in the upper right corner). Is there a way to correct this and use 1024x768? Should I turn the IP scaler off? Or would that not help?

Also, is there a way (for the main zone) to listen to one input while viewing another input? Say, listen to CD while pictures are being shown via WMC over HDMI?
1. The AVR works based on standard TV resolutions (ie. 720p/1080i/1080p/4k). Easy enough to set i/p Scaler to OFF to see if that makes a difference or not.
2. From the remote, first select the audio source (eg. network, Tuner, USB, CD (analog only)) and then select OPTION - VIDEO SELECT - ON and select the HDMI video source you want to listen.
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post #7513 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 11:44 AM
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Thank you, I'll give those a try. Looks like a new TV is in my future, as one column is bad (shows blue) on my plasma anyway.

Bob
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post #7514 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 12:24 PM
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Dumb question and I've only spent about 10 minutes looking it up but no clues. When I use media monkey to play over DLNA my FLAC file play at 160kb and I don't even have any nitrates that low, all 320kb kept in a separate folder. I keep my flacs in a separate folder. If I use Plex then they play fine as intended. Is this a glitch or something or some setting I need to dig into. It is driving me up the wall. Any suggestions? Haven't had any other other problems with wifi/Ethernet besides this. Currently I am testing wifi but intend to use Ethernet for it's reliability. Btw, just got a marantz 7702mkii and still setting things up. By setting up I mean my living room looks like a bomb went off to redo everything. I only had 3 RCA cables but decided to spend a few bucks going all XLR just because even though my situation doesn't call for it.
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post #7515 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 12:42 PM
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Sounds like Media Monkey is transcoding your Flac files on the fly.
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post #7516 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. The AVR works based on standard TV resolutions (ie. 720p/1080i/1080p/4k). Easy enough to set i/p Scaler to OFF to see if that makes a difference or not.
2. From the remote, first select the audio source (eg. network, Tuner, USB, CD (analog only)) and then select OPTION - VIDEO SELECT - ON and select the HDMI video source you want to listen.
Well, I tried to multi-quote this, but it wouldn't let me. Anyway, for both of these, I'd need to have the on-screen display on...which no longer is shown. So, I have to choose between the native display of my plasma TV and not having the on-screen display, or having overscan with 1080i (1080p makes Kodi operate strangely) but having the on-screen display.

Bob
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post #7517 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post
Well, I tried to multi-quote this, but it wouldn't let me. Anyway, for both of these, I'd need to have the on-screen display on...which no longer is shown. So, I have to choose between the native display of my plasma TV and not having the on-screen display, or having overscan with 1080i (1080p makes Kodi operate strangely) but having the on-screen display.
I tried to multi-quote..again, but it wouldn't let me. Anyway, I was wrong. I was able to use the options while on CD to select and turn on video; I just used the main screen on the Marantz (which unfortunately is basically on the ground and behind the Christmas tree...so it was difficult to see; I use a remote with RF and IR blasters to control my gear, so I try not to ever see the equipment unless I have to).

Thank you for the tip.

Bob
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post #7518 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Good evening all! Proud first time owner of a Marantz AVR: SR7010! The home theater is nearly complete and this receiver seems to bring everything in line!

Regarding video lag while playing video games, has anyone noticed this AVR adding any lag to video signals specifically while gaming?

Best way to mitigate this lag?
Rarely see any posts regarding gaming lag issues, so more likely depends on the components involved. You can mitigate lag by setting the VIDEO MODE - GAME (p. 227 Owner's manual) and if no joy, then set VIDEO CONVERSION - OFF (although doing so will lose the GUI/menu/volume overlay).
Thanks I will try game mode!

If I set the Xbox one source to game mode while viewing on zone one will it automatically output on game mode while viewing on zone two?
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post #7519 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Thanks I will try game mode!

If I set the Xbox one source to game mode while viewing on zone one will it automatically output on game mode while viewing on zone two?
The setting only applies to the main zone.
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post #7520 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Reflectionr View Post
Sounds like Media Monkey is transcoding your Flac files on the fly.
Nss. I didn't have that problem on my onkyo 3009. I haven't touched any media monkey settings and why the hell would it transcode so low. Why not 320 at least? I prefer Plex overall but sometimes only media monkey shows up. I don't think I've done anything in my pre pro to do this. I can't remember but I think when I first tried media monkey it did FLAC fine. I did do a firmware update but I have a hard time believing that is the culprit. Anybody else with something more useful to share? I am still setting up my stuff and realized the way I wanted to physically set up my stuff won't work well unless I am willing to suffer some compromises. So now I'm going back to original setup.
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post #7521 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pukemon View Post
Nss. I didn't have that problem on my onkyo 3009. I haven't touched any media monkey settings and why the hell would it transcode so low. Why not 320 at least? I prefer Plex overall but sometimes only media monkey shows up. I don't think I've done anything in my pre pro to do this. I can't remember but I think when I first tried media monkey it did FLAC fine. I did do a firmware update but I have a hard time believing that is the culprit. Anybody else with something more useful to share? I am still setting up my stuff and realized the way I wanted to physically set up my stuff won't work well unless I am willing to suffer some compromises. So now I'm going back to original setup.
Why don't you take 10 seconds and look at your MM settings? Specifically the auto conversion options. http://www.mediamonkey.com/wiki/inde...ia_Servers/4.0

You're welcome.
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post #7522 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The setting only applies to the main zone.
Thanks Smoothie,

How do I apply 'Game mode' to video sources being viewed on zone 2 display? video games will be played on zone 2 display and therefore will require low lag 'game mode'.

Is this possible?
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post #7523 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Reflectionr View Post
Why don't you take 10 seconds and look at your MM settings? Specifically the auto conversion options. http://www.mediamonkey.com/wiki/inde...ia_Servers/4.0

You're welcome.

Thanks. I don't know why it was playing such low bit rate. I disabled all profiles and made a new one that only played FLAC. ALL is well now. Appreciate the couple minutes of your time.
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post #7524 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Thanks Smoothie,

How do I apply 'Game mode' to video sources being viewed on zone 2 display? video games will be played on zone 2 display and therefore will require low lag 'game mode'.

Is this possible?
No setting via the AVR, rather it would have to be a Game mode on the TV.
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post #7525 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Feregorn View Post
But having more power doesn't mean better control over the sound on lower listening levels too? Plus when you invite people over, more power is important in order to fill the room with sound at similar listening levels... Isn't that right?

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
When you say fill the room with sound at similar listening levels, what level would that be?

To help determine this, the reference level in movies is mixed around 85dB on average with +20dB headroom to taken into account the dynamics in the movie soundtrack. That means peak of 105dB at the Main Listening Position (MLP). Most people would consider reference level to be too loud and turn it down a bit, i.e. -10dB based on the reference scale.

To check if your Klipsch RP-280f can reach reference level, use the following online calculator: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html. Based on Klipsch's datasheet, the RP-280f has a sensitivity of 98db/W/m. Just plug in the parameters of
(a) power requirement;
(b) the number speakers;
(c) the distance between the speakers and MLP; and
(d) placement within the room.

It will work out the SPL. Target is to reach 105dB.

Using the following parameters of (a) = 25W, (b) = 2, (c)=10 feet and (d)= away from walls, the Klipsch RP-280f gets to 105dB. Which means it can reach reference level without much power. Based on your room and speaker placement, how much power is needed?

Another thing to consider is when implementing bass management. By diverting the power hunger low frequencies to the more capable sub(s) with it's own built in amplifier (i.e. with a crossover frequency of say 80Hz), one can effectively reduce the power requirement by 50%.

Please note that music has generally a lower dynamic range compared to a movie soundtrack. I.e. most of the time the song is well within +20dB of the average level. To check the dynamic range of a song, put the tune through the dynamic range meter of an app such as Foobar2000. It's surprising what the results are.
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post #7526 of 12389 Old 12-11-2016, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raf77 View Post
Definitely not true.
I have biamp front speakers from mm8077 and is big difference in plus.
I'm thinking to biamp central to.
Low from mm8077 and high from sr7010.
Curious to know what type of speakers are being used in this particular setup and what tests were done to help determine this?

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #7527 of 12389 Old 12-12-2016, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
When you say fill the room with sound at similar listening levels, what level would that be?

To help determine this, the reference level in movies is mixed around 85dB on average with +20dB headroom to taken into account the dynamics in the movie soundtrack. That means peak of 105dB at the Main Listening Position (MLP). Most people would consider reference level to be too loud and turn it down a bit, i.e. -10dB based on the reference scale.

To check if your Klipsch RP-280f can reach reference level, use the following online calculator: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html. Based on Klipsch's datasheet, the RP-280f has a sensitivity of 98db/W/m. Just plug in the parameters of
(a) power requirement;
(b) the number speakers;
(c) the distance between the speakers and MLP; and
(d) placement within the room.

It will work out the SPL. Target is to reach 105dB.

Using the following parameters of (a) = 25W, (b) = 2, (c)=10 feet and (d)= away from walls, the Klipsch RP-280f gets to 105dB. Which means it can reach reference level without much power. Based on your room and speaker placement, how much power is needed?

Another thing to consider is when implementing bass management. By diverting the power hunger low frequencies to the more capable sub(s) with it's own built in amplifier (i.e. with a crossover frequency of say 80Hz), one can effectively reduce the power requirement by 50%.

Please note that music has generally a lower dynamic range compared to a movie soundtrack. I.e. most of the time the song is well within +20dB of the average level. To check the dynamic range of a song, put the tune through the dynamic range meter of an app such as Foobar2000. It's surprising what the results are.

Previously with a fairly mediocre AIHT system I used to get about 75db from 15 feet (~4.5m). My plan is to get that to about 110db because when I invite people over and we want to groove a little bit, room db levels fall, so its necessary to counter it. But besides, power, I want control as well as a warm and analytical sound from the Klipsch RP-280f, at a budget of about 2000 euros. One of my choices is the Marantz PM8005, and when I input its 70w, the SPL calculator gives me 112.3db which isn't a bad result at all. The room they will beplaced is a rectangular lounge of about 90sqm and the speakers will be placed forward on one of the short sides. Amolst exlusively it will be used for music listening.
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post #7528 of 12389 Old 12-12-2016, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Curious to know what type of speakers are being used in this particular setup and what tests were done to help determine this?
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post #7529 of 12389 Old 12-12-2016, 12:36 PM
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I've got a media PC with HDMI-CEC, older Samsung TV with Anynet+ and Marantz SR6010.

If I connect the media PC to the TV, the TV sees the HDMI-CEC device and turns on/off when I power the media PC on/off.

If I connect the SR6010 in between, pretty much nothing works when it comes to HDMI CEC. I've configured HDMI control On in the AVR menus. I've reset it and configured everything from scratch. No help. The Samsung TV does not see any HDMI CEC devices. Nothing powers on/off when I power the media PC on/off.

Any tips? Am I doing something wrong?
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post #7530 of 12389 Old 12-12-2016, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by trsqr View Post
I've got a media PC with HDMI-CEC, older Samsung TV with Anynet+ and Marantz SR6010.

If I connect the media PC to the TV, the TV sees the HDMI-CEC device and turns on/off when I power the media PC on/off.

If I connect the SR6010 in between, pretty much nothing works when it comes to HDMI CEC. I've configured HDMI control On in the AVR menus. I've reset it and configured everything from scratch. No help. The Samsung TV does not see any HDMI CEC devices. Nothing powers on/off when I power the media PC on/off.

Any tips? Am I doing something wrong?
What media PC do you have?
Have you contacted the authors of the CEC software that it's using?

It might be possible to persuade the authors of the computer's CEC software to modify it to work with Marantz equipment. You'll probably have to allow them to access the computer remotely, of course, so they can debug the problem. Marantz equipment is common enough that they should support it, even if it's "out of spec."

Unfortunately, I don't think you're doing anything wrong. The HDMI spec for CEC is sufficiently vague that different companies have implemented it in different, often incompatible, ways.

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