*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 268 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8011 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 12:22 PM
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Need help setting up CEC and ARC

I want send the Netflix audio to my receiver. Is arc the best or toslink?
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post #8012 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Audio delay setting: does going to the left from 0 (minus side) mean I'm progressively making audio come ahead of the video or making it progressively fall behind the video?

Also, any really good a/v sync patterns to use to calibrate? I have the Spears Munsil Bluray disc but the A/V is hard to set with it
Anyone care to reply? Thanks.
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post #8013 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Going Atmos (Paradigm E80 series inwalls for surrounds), so moving from a 5.2 setup to a 7.2.2 setup with the SR7010.

Anything known issues in getting that going with the SR7010? Or does it work flawlessly?
Anyone care to reply? Thanks.
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post #8014 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 12:50 PM
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Should I be turning on Audyssey Dynamic EQ after calibration or is this best left off?
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post #8015 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 03:39 PM
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I am having some speaker issues with my in ceiling Dolby Atmos speakers on certain soundtracks. It sounds like the driver is getting over worked. Can I go in and manually set the speakers in Audyssey? I am sure that this is a completely newbie question, but I have only been able to do it manually.

My speakers are Paradigm SA-10R in ceiling speakers, I think they should be able to handle the wattage I am sending them, but maybe the crossover is set too low.
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post #8016 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 04:15 PM
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I'm considering using Emotiva Airmotiv T-1 speakers as my FL/FR with an SR6010. My concern is that the speakers are 4ohm rated, 88db efficiency. Has anyone tried either these speakers or a similar style with the SR6010?

The room is about 15x17 with 7' ceilings, so it isn't massive, but I'd hate to be underdriving the main speakers, or overloading the receiver.
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post #8017 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 05:38 PM
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Center channel buzzing / rasping / grating noises on 7010?

Playing back MKV files created using MakeMKV and played back using PowerDVD on a home built home theater PC.

The PC is an intel 3.4 GHz i5-3570K based machine with 16 gigabytes of RAM and a EVGA GTX 970 4GB GDDR5 graphics card. The PC runs Windows 10. Connection to the receiver is via an Audioquest Chocolate HDMI cable, 1 meter long, plugged into the graphics card HDMI port.

The receiver is a three month old Marantz SR-7010. I have a 7.2.4 setup using Yamaha "Natural Sound" NS-IW960 full range main speakers including the center.

When playing back MKVs I am getting what I can only describe as a "rasping" or "crackling" sound coming only from the center channel. Only the center channel.

I get this, especially, on "loud" bits of movies, such as the blast-off scenes from Apollo 13 but also on less "noisy" parts of other movies as well.

I have tried replacing the graphics card, the HDMI cable, the speaker cable between receiver and speaker, the speaker itself, and using a different input channel on the receiver. I have also tried changing the speaker configuration from "large" to "small" and playing with the subwoofer crossover frequencies. None of these have solved the problem.

I do NOT get the same problems playing the movie using the original Blu-Ray disc in a regular Blu-Ray player, so I suspect the issue stems with the HTPC, possibly PowerDVD, otherwise an EXCELLENT product.

Do you have any suggestions before I head back to BestBuy, receiver in arms?

Thanks.
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post #8018 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Anyone care to reply? Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcla View Post
I'm considering using Emotiva Airmotiv T-1 speakers as my FL/FR with an SR6010. My concern is that the speakers are 4ohm rated, 88db efficiency. Has anyone tried either these speakers or a similar style with the SR6010?

The room is about 15x17 with 7' ceilings, so it isn't massive, but I'd hate to be underdriving the main speakers, or overloading the receiver.
Personally, I wouldn't run 4ohm speakers off a receiver. Maybe just to test to see if a speaker works but that's about it. you'd probably end up buying a receiver annually doing what you want to do.

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post #8019 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Apparently not Dolby Vision (at this time), although neither can 2016 models.
Hey JD, what do you mean by "at this time?" AFAIK the only DV-capable source (aside from built-in streaming apps) is the new Chromecast Ultra and I thought the DV issues with that unit were particular to it.

Said another way, the Chromecast Ultra won't pass DV through AVRs or pre-pros, but future devices (like the Oppo 203) should be able to do so. Isn't the problem with the Chromecast, not the AVR, or am I missing something?
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post #8020 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
Hey JD, what do you mean by "at this time?" AFAIK the only DV-capable source (aside from built-in streaming apps) is the new Chromecast Ultra and I thought the DV issues with that unit were particular to it.

Said another way, the Chromecast Ultra won't pass DV through AVRs or pre-pros, but future devices (like the Oppo 203) should be able to do so. Isn't the problem with the Chromecast, not the AVR, or am I missing something?
Not clear at this time.
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post #8021 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcla View Post
I'm considering using Emotiva Airmotiv T-1 speakers as my FL/FR with an SR6010. My concern is that the speakers are 4ohm rated, 88db efficiency. Has anyone tried either these speakers or a similar style with the SR6010?

The room is about 15x17 with 7' ceilings, so it isn't massive, but I'd hate to be underdriving the main speakers, or overloading the receiver.
Shouldn't be a problem, especially if you don't listen at loud, movie reference volume levels.
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post #8022 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phansson View Post
I am having some speaker issues with my in ceiling Dolby Atmos speakers on certain soundtracks. It sounds like the driver is getting over worked. Can I go in and manually set the speakers in Audyssey? I am sure that this is a completely newbie question, but I have only been able to do it manually.

My speakers are Paradigm SA-10R in ceiling speakers, I think they should be able to handle the wattage I am sending them, but maybe the crossover is set too low.
Yes, you can increase the crossover setting in Manual Setup if you prefer.
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post #8023 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warden1969 View Post
Need help setting up CEC and ARC

I want send the Netflix audio to my receiver. Is arc the best or toslink?
If it works, ARC would be the best (especially if your TV is able to pass Netflix DD+ audio); however, often times it does not work as intended, requiring the use of an optical cable.
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post #8024 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Audio delay setting: does going to the left from 0 (minus side) mean I'm progressively making audio come ahead of the video or making it progressively fall behind the video?

Also, any really good a/v sync patterns to use to calibrate? I have the Spears Munsil Bluray disc but the A/V is hard to set with it
Audio delay setting would increase the delay time as the number is set higher.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Going Atmos (Paradigm E80 series inwalls for surrounds), so moving from a 5.2 setup to a 7.2.2 setup with the SR7010.

Anything known issues in getting that going with the SR7010? Or does it work flawlessly?
The SR7010 is a 9CH model so will handle 7.2.2 just as easily as it does 5.2.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Should I be turning on Audyssey Dynamic EQ after calibration or is this best left off?
Dynamic EQ defaults to ON after running Audyssey, and in most cases is best left ON.
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post #8025 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 08:30 PM
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Thank you for the information, but I am only using one 65 SUHD tv in this room, so I am going to say that is a non issue for me. But I really appreciate your taking the time to point it out.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
For some people, the HDMI outputs are a major difference, especially if you want to be able to switch between a projector and a TV in the Main Zone.

The AV7702MkII and SR7010 have three HDMI outputs: two for the Main Zone and one for Zone 2.
The SR6011 has only two HDMI outputs: one for the Main Zone and one for Zone 2.

If you want to be able to switch easily between a TV and projector in the Main Zone, you need the two Main Zone outputs. The Zone 2 HDMI output has too many differences for it to be usable for a projector associated with the Main Zone.

Of course, you can use an external HDMI switch for the Main Zone, but that has its own set of problems.
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post #8026 of 12486 Old 01-15-2017, 10:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by **Amused** View Post
Thank you very much once again.

Could you recommend a good selector switch for this option?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Might want to look into the Russound AB-1.2 In-wall switch, available from Crutchfield here: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_543AB1...B-1.2&skipvs=T. If a box is needed, the Russound AB-2.2 is the more expensive option.

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post #8027 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yes, you can increase the crossover setting in Manual Setup if you prefer.
Thanks for the info, if you increase the settings in "manual", you can still run Audyssey and it will have the room correction info? Just wanted to make sure.
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post #8028 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the info, if you increase the settings in "manual", you can still run Audyssey and it will have the room correction info? Just wanted to make sure.
Audyssey is run first and then you can change the crossover in Manual Setup without impacting the Audyssey EQ; otherwise, any changes made prior to running Audyssey are ignored.
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post #8029 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Audyssey is run first and then you can change the crossover in Manual Setup without impacting the Audyssey EQ; otherwise, any changes made prior to running Audyssey are ignored.
Thanks for the help! I thought that was the case, I just wanted to make sure!
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post #8030 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 11:03 AM
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Okay, I'm having a weird issue... I have a Sr6010 and I'm pretty sure I have all of my audio settings tuned correctly and I ran Audyssey, so it's configured correctly, but for some reason, I'm only getting signs from my front three channels and the side surround channels. No height or rear surround. Any clue about what could be causing this???
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post #8031 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeko View Post
Okay, I'm having a weird issue... I have a Sr6010 and I'm pretty sure I have all of my audio settings tuned correctly and I ran Audyssey, so it's configured correctly, but for some reason, I'm only getting signs from my front three channels and the side surround channels. No height or rear surround. Any clue about what could be causing this???
So then you have a 7.1.2 setup. Externally powering the FL/FR or HT1L/HT1R speakers? Amp Assign setting? Manual Setup test tones play to all speakers? No joy using either Dolby Surround nor DTS Neural:X?
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post #8032 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 11:52 AM
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7.2.2 setup.

The test tones play to all the correct channels respectively when I run the audyssey setup and I've tried different sound modes during movie playback, but no height or rear surround. It actually sounds like the rear surround is coming from the sides because it's really active. I'm using the Transformers Extinction bluray for my test media.
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post #8033 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 11:53 AM
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Everything is powered by the avr, by the way
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post #8034 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 12:11 PM
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6010 for $699 or 6011 for $899

What's the difference between the 2 and which one would you purchase?
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post #8035 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeko View Post
7.2.2 setup.

The test tones play to all the correct channels respectively when I run the audyssey setup and I've tried different sound modes during movie playback, but no height or rear surround. It actually sounds like the rear surround is coming from the sides because it's really active. I'm using the Transformers Extinction bluray for my test media.
When you press on the remote's Info button, what does it show in its on-screen display?

What signal and sound modes are in use and which incoming channels and speaker channel are active?

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post #8036 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 01:27 PM
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These are the settings the bluray player are showing:




These are the setting the avr is showing:
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post #8037 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 01:29 PM
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And I'm still not getting any sound from the height speakers, despite indication that they're on.
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post #8038 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gullygill View Post
6010 for $699 or 6011 for $899

What's the difference between the 2 and which one would you purchase?
A quick google search: https://www.crutchfield.com/compare_...tz-SR6011.html

You get 2 more channels with the 6011. Are you setting up a 9.1 system? If not, get the 6011
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post #8039 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeko View Post
Everything is powered by the avr, by the way
There's your problem. The SR6010 is only a 7CH AVR so in order to do a 7.2.2 setup, you must add an external 2CH amp to power either the FL/FR speakers or the Height L/R speakers, the least expensive option being to power the two height speakers using either an old AVR you have laying around or an AudioSource AMP100VS purchased on Amazon.
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post #8040 of 12486 Old 01-16-2017, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
There's your problem. The SR6010 is only a 7CH AVR so in order to do a 7.2.2 setup, you must add an external 2CH amp to power either the FL/FR speakers or the Height L/R speakers, the least expensive option being to power the two height speakers using either an old AVR you have laying around or an AudioSource AMP100VS purchased on Amazon.
Wow. I could have sworn these channels have worked before. That's strange.
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