*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 317 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9481 of 12395 Old 07-01-2017, 11:09 AM
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^Update - turned Video conversion back on and got the volume bar back. Problem is I don't like how it affects the picture. Calibrator suggested it be turned off as it was causing problems getting skin tones right. I'll just have to live without it unless there is a workaround.


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post #9482 of 12395 Old 07-01-2017, 11:16 AM
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Do yall have any recommendations on which type of interconnect cables to get using the sr6010 with a rotel amp?

I'm lost in the forums going one way and another.

I'm not looking to spend over $500 for 5 channels that are 10ft long.

I've read the blue jeans cable lc1 and the black Mamba 2 lack treble and bass....

Any ideas or cables yall have good luck with?

Thanks



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post #9483 of 12395 Old 07-01-2017, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsorgi View Post
^Update - turned Video conversion back on and got the volume bar back. Problem is I don't like how it affects the picture. Calibrator suggested it be turned off as it was causing problems getting skin tones right. I'll just have to live without it unless there is a workaround.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
For 4k video, especially, it would behoove you to bypass the unit altogether. Of course, that means it's a solution to the video processor unduly influencing the video stream while on or off with UHD Blu-ray (with or without streaming apps) only since every player (except the Xbox One S) has dual HDMI outputs.

That's what I did with my 7702 mk II pre-amp and the Oppo 203.

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Last edited by Dan Hitchman; 07-01-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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post #9484 of 12395 Old 07-01-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
For 4k video, especially, it would behoove you to bypass the unit altogether. Of course, that means it's a solution to the video processor unduly influencing the video stream while on or off with UHD Blu-ray (with or without streaming apps) only since every player (except the Xbox One S) has dual HDMI outputs.

That's what I did with my 7702 mk II pre-amp and the Oppo 203.


Thanks Dan. I do bypass it with my Oppo since my AVR won't pass Dolby Vision. I'll just leave conversion off for my Roku and DirecTV.


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post #9485 of 12395 Old 07-01-2017, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
For 4k video, especially, it would behoove you to bypass the unit altogether. Of course, that means it's a solution to the video processor unduly influencing the video stream while on or off with UHD Blu-ray (with or without streaming apps) only since every player (except the Xbox One S) has dual HDMI outputs.

That's what I did with my 7702 mk II pre-amp and the Oppo 203.

Since I tried this before.


I just like to know, if I miss something.
Or you do your set-up/calibration, Then split your signal the signal at the Oppo.


When doing a bypass from my AVP/AVR (AV8801), when doing a calibration, the screen was blank, since the Blu Ray player (Oppo 95) does not know what the AVP/AVR is doing, this what happen to me, and now use the AVP to split the signal.


Ray
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post #9486 of 12395 Old 07-03-2017, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
Do yall have any recommendations on which type of interconnect cables to get using the sr6010 with a rotel amp?

I'm lost in the forums going one way and another.

I'm not looking to spend over $500 for 5 channels that are 10ft long.

I've read the blue jeans cable lc1 and the black Mamba 2 lack treble and bass....

Any ideas or cables yall have good luck with?

Thanks



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If you are into HT, I wouldn't suggest spending more than that on cables. I use wireworld cables and there will be some in your budget. I would spend more on the sub and tweak the settings rather than rely on cables to enhance the bass, cheers.
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post #9487 of 12395 Old 07-03-2017, 01:32 PM
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What is an ideal bass setting on SR7010? I am new to Marantz and I am not sure if my setting set to LFE is best solution or LFE + Main for 5.1.4 setting? Thanks
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post #9488 of 12395 Old 07-03-2017, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by eddyxwb View Post
What is an ideal bass setting on SR7010? I am new to Marantz and I am not sure if my setting set to LFE is best solution or LFE + Main for 5.1.4 setting? Thanks
With your FL/FR speakers set to SMALL/80Hz (as suggested they be changed to after running Audyssey), it won't matter, however, best to leave it at the factory default of LFE.
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post #9489 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 10:10 AM
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Hi All,

First time poster, so hopefully y'all can help. I have the SR5009 that has been operating perfectly for over a year. I control all the functions through a Control4 home automation controller that my dealer setup. I recently performed a firmware update to 3600-3161-6664 and it broke one piece of important functionality: Power On. Once the device is on (manually), the C4 operates the receiver perfectly. I suspected that the firmware update changed some settings, so I've gone through and checked everything I knew of. Some specific settings I thought might be the culprit is the Network IP Control - set for Always On. I also turned Eco mode OFF in hopes that it was possibly putting the device to sleep and not waking up when getting a power on signal through IP and C4. I tried resetting everything and still it won't seem to "wake up" via IP.

Any other suggestions/thoughts on this?

(needed to heed my own advice... if it's not broke, don't fix it!)
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post #9490 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 10:24 AM
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Hi All,

First time poster, so hopefully y'all can help. I have the SR5009 that has been operating perfectly for over a year. I control all the functions through a Control4 home automation controller that my dealer setup. I recently performed a firmware update to 3600-3161-6664 and it broke one piece of important functionality: Power On. Once the device is on (manually), the C4 operates the receiver perfectly. I suspected that the firmware update changed some settings, so I've gone through and checked everything I knew of. Some specific settings I thought might be the culprit is the Network IP Control - set for Always On. I also turned Eco mode OFF in hopes that it was possibly putting the device to sleep and not waking up when getting a power on signal through IP and C4. I tried resetting everything and still it won't seem to "wake up" via IP.

Any other suggestions/thoughts on this?

(needed to heed my own advice... if it's not broke, don't fix it!)
....regarding Network IP Control, did you switch it to "Off" and verify while off that the hand held remote IR power command toggled the power correctly? If not, try this and then reset IP Control back on and see if this fixed the problem

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post #9491 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 11:33 AM
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....regarding Network IP Control, did you switch it to "Off" and verify while off that the hand held remote IR power command toggled the power correctly? If not, try this and then reset IP Control back on and see if this fixed the problem
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try that just now and have the same results. It appears that the device won't listen to anything coming across IP network when it is in standby mode regardless of the NW IP Control setting.

Marantz wasn't much help..... they are asking for a factory reset to test it. Going through the process of saving my config and will try that next. Stay tuned...
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post #9492 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 12:02 PM
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...so if the IR power toggle function was indeed working, my guess is that the discrete "Power On" code may have somehow gotten corrupted either in the Marantz or in the Control 4. Either that, or the "Always On" is not activating as it should, leaving things always in the off during stand-by state. Any case, way above my pay grade.

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post #9493 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 02:25 PM
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Appreciate the help. Was able to escalate with Marantz where we tried to roll back to the previous firmware, but unfortunately they couldn't put their hands on that version so I'm still stuck. I've also tried to backup my current config and that isn't working either (just times out). I suspect this firmware load isn't clean. I'm waiting to see if they can provide me a previous version to reload. Otherwise, I'll default to an RS232 connection. Sucks to have to revert to a hardware solution with a software problem. Things on the C4 side look good and since the only thing that changed was the Marantz firmware, my finger is pointing to them.

I'll keep you posted...
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post #9494 of 12395 Old 07-05-2017, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Appreciate the help. Was able to escalate with Marantz where we tried to roll back to the previous firmware, but unfortunately they couldn't put their hands on that version so I'm still stuck. I've also tried to backup my current config and that isn't working either (just times out). I suspect this firmware load isn't clean. I'm waiting to see if they can provide me a previous version to reload. Otherwise, I'll default to an RS232 connection. Sucks to have to revert to a hardware solution with a software problem. Things on the C4 side look good and since the only thing that changed was the Marantz firmware, my finger is pointing to them.

I'll keep you posted...
Kinda basic I guess, but did you try pulling the AC plug on your Marantz, wait 5 minutes, and then restore power?

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post #9495 of 12395 Old 07-07-2017, 11:33 AM
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Hi Guys

For my 7702mk2, I tried to plug my iPhone 5 into the front USB port to play music on the iPhone, it showed "No Connection". Have you guys had this problem before ? I remembered long time ago it was working . I called customer support and they said USB port might not work and asked me for repairs. But it was working before.

Any recommendations for this issue? Thx
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post #9496 of 12395 Old 07-07-2017, 11:43 AM
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Hi Guys

For my 7702mk2, I tried to plug my iPhone 5 into the front USB port to play music on the iPhone, it showed "No Connection". Have you guys had this problem before ? I remembered long time ago it was working . I called customer support and they said USB port might not work and asked me for repairs. But it was working before.

Any recommendations for this issue? Thx
Although iPod connectivity has been dropped on the 2016 and newer models, there should be no issue connecting to a 2015 model.
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post #9497 of 12395 Old 07-07-2017, 12:11 PM
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Although iPod connectivity has been dropped on the 2016 and newer models, there should be no issue connecting to a 2015 model.
Thanks JD. How do I know my Mk2 is 2016 or 2015 model? I ordered it in October 2015. Look like it is 2016 model with new mk2. If so, so this iPod connection had been dropped? Thanks
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post #9498 of 12395 Old 07-07-2017, 12:20 PM
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Thanks JD. How do I know my Mk2 is 2016 or 2015 model? I ordered it in October 2015. Look like it is 2016 model with new mk2. If so, so this iPod connection had been dropped? Thanks
You're in the 2015 Owner's thread ... so it must be a 2015 model.

The successor AV7703 is the 2016 model.
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post #9499 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 09:10 AM
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I have a 7010 that is shutting down at higher volume levels. I have 2 exhaust fans on top of the AVR, cabinet is open in the back and I leave the front open when in use. The unit is not even warm when these shut downs occur. The shut downs happen at volume levels of 60 or above and usually in extended action scenes or during concert dvd's. I can reset by cycling power, but it will happen again unless I turn down volume.
I added an Emotiva amp for the front 3 channels hoping that it would reduce the power requirements/heat of the 7010 and although I like the results, it hasn't solved the problem.
Any thoughts?
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post #9500 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 09:15 AM
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I have a 7010 that is shutting down at higher volume levels. I have 2 exhaust fans on top of the AVR, cabinet is open in the back and I leave the front open when in use. The unit is not even warm when these shut downs occur. The shut downs happen at volume levels of 60 or above and usually in extended action scenes or during concert dvd's. I can reset by cycling power, but it will happen again unless I turn down volume.
I added an Emotiva amp for the front 3 channels hoping that it would reduce the power requirements/heat of the 7010 and although I like the results, it hasn't solved the problem.
Any thoughts?
It sounds like a possible short on the speaker terminals. Check them on the Scars and at the speaker ends.
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post #9501 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 09:22 AM
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It sounds like a possible short on the speaker terminals. Check them on the Scars and at the speaker ends.
Hmm. I will check this, have banana plugs all around. Thanks for the thought!
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post #9502 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Assign Mode: 7.1ch

Floor

- Layout
: 5ch

Height

– Height Sp
: 2ch

- Layout: Front Dolby



Until you expand the AVR from 7CH --> 9CH processing, there is no need to identify which speakers are being externally powered.


JD,

Is a 5.1.4 setup possible with an external amp on the fronts on the 6010? What is the lay out for it? I still haven't decided which amp I go for.

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post #9503 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 06:53 PM
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JD,

Is a 5.1.4 setup possible with an external amp on the fronts on the 6010? What is the lay out for it? I still haven't decided which amp I go for.
Assign Mode: 9.1
Floor
- Layout
: 5ch
Height
– Height Sp
: 4ch
- Layout: Top Front + Top Rear
- Pre-out: Front
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post #9504 of 12395 Old 07-09-2017, 07:30 PM
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I tried to do a custom search in this thread, but could not find my answer


Sorry if it had been ask before.


On page 45 of the pdf version, it says;




AV7702mk BALANCED XLR PRE OUT connector PIN
arrangement

A GND (Ground)
B HOT (+)
C COLD (–)
The PIN arrangement in this device uses the European method.


In the USA method, B is COLD, and C is HOT.
When connecting a device that utilizes the USA type of PIN arrangement,
replace the B and C plugs on one side of the balanced cable.


I do not recall seeing that on my AV8801 manual.
Since I intend to replace my AV8801 with the AV7702mkII, using my Outlaw Audio 7700, 2 SVS PB13-Ultra and one Velodyne SMS-1 (volume control for 2 Butt Kickers), all using XLR connections [will be using RCA for the extra amp for ceiling duty].
Does this mean, that all my Balance cables, need to change?
That would be very expensive since I got some long runs for the subs/SMS-1 (last two would also be a big problem, if changing every thing to RCA).


If so, why this decision for the North America market, just seem odd to me?
Or was the USA method, a thing from back in the old days?
Is it a concern?
No problem with the AV8801, using XLR.


If anyone know, it would be greatly appreciated if you can comment on this
Hopefully, I gave enough info.


Ray

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post #9505 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 07:07 AM
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Is it a concern?
No problem with the AV8801, using XLR.


Nope. Not a problem using the AV7702MKII either.
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post #9506 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 11:18 AM
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If I have a 9.1 setup (11.1 with external amp) and:

1) I unplug all but 2 channels
2) still leave the AVR settings as if all channels are plugged in
3) run signal through "all channels"

Will it tax the amp as if all channels are running? Or if the speakers are not plugged in, the power won't be "sent"

I want to test the "all channels driven" performance but just listening to 1 speaker. Basically seeing the the amp has the chops to run 9 channels and feed my fronts with no distortion.

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post #9507 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
If I have a 9.1 setup (11.1 with external amp) and:

1) I unplug all but 2 channels
2) still leave the AVR settings as if all channels are plugged in
3) run signal through "all channels"

Will it tax the amp as if all channels are running? Or if the speakers are not plugged in, the power won't be "sent"

I want to test the "all channels driven" performance but just listening to 1 speaker. Basically seeing the the amp has the chops to run 9 channels and feed my fronts with no distortion.
Although all amps are powered ON all the time, additional power wouldn't be required unless the speaker is drawing more power.
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post #9508 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Although all amps are powered ON all the time, additional power wouldn't be required unless the speaker is drawing more power.
Is what you're saying that if speakers are plugged in then power will be consumed? If not, then that power is not consumed and "returned" to the amp as usable power for other speakers?

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post #9509 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
Is what you're saying that if speakers are plugged in then power will be consumed? If not, then that power is not consumed and "returned" to the amp as usable power for other speakers?
With no power going to the speakers, there is still a minimum amount of power being drawn (generally about 80-90W or so).
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post #9510 of 12395 Old 07-10-2017, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fackamato View Post
It sounds like a possible short on the speaker terminals. Check them on the Scars and at the speaker ends.
Curious why if this were the problem, why does volume impact the occurrence? Can use all day at lower volumes with no problem.
Still have to check connections at the AVR, PIA to get back there...
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