*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 318 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9511 of 12343 Old 07-10-2017, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwanthd View Post
Curious why if this were the problem, why does volume impact the occurrence? Can use all day at lower volumes with no problem.
Still have to check connections at the AVR, PIA to get back there...

Because the protection only kicks in when there's higher voltage/current flowing, perhaps.
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post #9512 of 12343 Old 07-10-2017, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Nope. Not a problem using the AV7702MKII either.

Thank You


I was hoping to get an answer from You, since you have so much knowledge about this stuff.


I got pretty well the same response, from Outlaw Audio (my amp) and SVS (Subs), since I use XLR connections for them
AES, is the new standard for anything built later than early/mid 90's.
I guess it stand for "American European Standard".


I did kind of suspected that scenario, but wanted to make sure, toys at those prices are too expensive to take a chance


Thanks to You, and those two ID companies, I will sleep tonight
Marantz should include a little note about that!


Edit


A little follow-up.
I was way wrong for what AES stand for
It actually stand for "Audio Engineering Society', just for those interested in this info.

Ray

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post #9513 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
One set? There is only one set of rear surround speaker posts; however, the SR6010 is designed to only use the Height 1 and Front Wide speaker posts for the 2 sets of "height" speakers.


JD
Thanks for the help.
I finally started the new build.

I'm trying to wire my 4 atmos ceiling speakers.

I plugged the atmos ceiling speakers in front of the couch into the "front wide" ports.

And I plugged in the atmos ceiling soeakers behind the couch into the "height 1" ports.

Is this OK, or should it be reversed?

Thanks




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post #9514 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
JD
Thanks for the help.
I finally started the new build.

I'm trying to wire my 4 atmos ceiling speakers.

I plugged the atmos ceiling speakers in front of the couch into the "front wide" ports.

And I plugged in the atmos ceiling soeakers behind the couch into the "height 1" ports.

Is this OK, or should it be reversed?

Thanks

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Reversed.
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post #9515 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Reversed.


So the ones in front of the couch are the height 1 and the ones behind the couch are the front wide?

Do I need to do any amp assign?


Thanks again




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Last edited by Newbie789; 07-15-2017 at 06:55 AM.
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post #9516 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
So the ones in front of the couch are the height 1 and the ones behind the couch are the front wide?

Do I need to do any amp assign?


Thanks again




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You acknowledged the correct Amp Assign I posted at 9494.
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post #9517 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
So the ones in front of the couch are the height 1 and the ones behind the couch are the front wide?

Do I need to do any amp assign?


Thanks again




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a great tool for getting the correct connections, after you set amp assign, go to view terminals at the bottom. It will show you a picture of the back of the receiver with the various outputs renamed to match which channel is actually being used.
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post #9518 of 12343 Old 07-15-2017, 12:48 PM
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Thanks guys. I'm still new to a lot of this so the extra explanations are very much appreciated.


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post #9519 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 03:50 AM
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SR6010 Blue portal light

My SR6010 has never had the blue light on around the portal. The manual and specs says it does.
I see no setting anywhere to turn it on.

Marantz SR6010
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post #9520 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by heliuscron View Post
My SR6010 has never had the blue light on around the portal. The manual and specs says it does.
I see no setting anywhere to turn it on.
This feature is only offered on the SR7000 series and AFAIK, not listed in the SR6010 manual.
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post #9521 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by heliuscron View Post
My SR6010 has never had the blue light on around the portal. The manual and specs says it does.
I see no setting anywhere to turn it on.
If it's like the 7010, you have to press and hold the Dimmer button on the unit, for 3 seconds, to switch between this circular illumination on and off. It is on by default, so it's curious why yours isn't. But easy enough to fix.

I have my turned off, since with a Projector, I want to minimize the light in the room.

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post #9522 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
If it's like the 7010, you have to press and hold the Dimmer button on the unit, for 3 seconds, to switch between this circular illumination on and off. It is on by default, so it's curious why yours isn't. But easy enough to fix.

I have my turned off, since with a Projector, I want to minimize the light in the room.
Because it's not featured on the SR6010.
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post #9523 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Because it's not featured on the SR6010.
Yeah, well I guess that may have something to do with it as well!
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post #9524 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 07:12 AM
 
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Hey Guys! Quick question for you all before I go out and buy and extra cable (that I may not need).

Right now I'm running all of my inputs (4K player, cable, PS3) through my SR5010 and using the HMDI ARC functionality to go out to my TV. I know ARC can be funky, but everything works really great thus far.

The only problem I'm having now is when I launch Netflix from the TV, the only sound I get is from the TV speakers- not the surround sound. It seems as though the sound doesn't pass down from the TV to the AVR. This isn't a problem when I launch Netflix from the 4K player- I get surround sound as it passes through the AVR then on to the TV - which makes sense.

Am I missing a setting or something to get surround passed from the TV's Netflix?

If not, I imagine the easy fix here is to probably purchase a digital audio optical cable and connect that from the TV to the AVR right? If so, then my question becomes what source do you select on the receiver to get that sound?
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post #9525 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AudioNewGuy View Post
Hey Guys! Quick question for you all before I go out and buy and extra cable (that I may not need).

Right now I'm running all of my inputs (4K player, cable, PS3) through my SR5010 and using the HMDI ARC functionality to go out to my TV. I know ARC can be funky, but everything works really great thus far.

The only problem I'm having now is when I launch Netflix from the TV, the only sound I get is from the TV speakers- not the surround sound. It seems as though the sound doesn't pass down from the TV to the AVR. This isn't a problem when I launch Netflix from the 4K player- I get surround sound as it passes through the AVR then on to the TV - which makes sense.

Am I missing a setting or something to get surround passed from the TV's Netflix?

If not, I imagine the easy fix here is to probably purchase a digital audio optical cable and connect that from the TV to the AVR right? If so, then my question becomes what source do you select on the receiver to get that sound?
How can "everything works great thus far" but then you indicate ARC isn't working?

ARC (Audio Return Channel) only refers to audio passing "from" the TV "to" the AVR which you indicate is not working properly. In order for ARC to work properly HDMI-CEC must be enabled on both the TV and AVR as well as the TV being set to use "external speakers/home theater." Additionally, on the AVR, there is a dedicated "ARC" setting (p. 175 Owner's manual) which factory defaults to OFF and must should be set to ON when you set HDMI Control to ON. Also, the "TV Audio Switching" setting defaults to "ON" in which case the AVR would switch to the "TV Audio" source when using Netflix on the TV, however, if you have set this setting to "OFF", you must manually select the "TV Audio" source button on the remote. If after making these settings and the powering off all devices and powering on the TV first and then the AVR, ARC is still not working for you, then connecting the optical cable from the TV to the OPT(TV Audio) input on the AVR would be the work around.

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post #9526 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 07:59 AM
 
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@jdsmoothie - thanks for the quick response. I guess what I meant was, when I select any of my existing input sources via the AVR, my surround sound works. Fairly new to this, so by your definition provided, clearly ARC in my case- is not working.

Appreciate your in depth response as well, when I head home tonight I will play around with my settings as you have suggested.

I believe my particular Samsung model TV dubs the HMDI-CEC setting as their Anynet+ feature. I currently have this setting turned 'OFF' because when I originally had it 'ON', every time I turned on the TV my 4K player (also a Samsung UDB-K8500) would turn on, regardless if the AVR was on or not. Turning off the 4K player, also cut the cable off to the TV.

Clearly there are some settings that I need to continue to dive into! I'll report back tonight when I go through your steps.
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post #9527 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 12:31 PM
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Ground loops...

I recently plugged my sr 6010 to a rotel 5 channel amp with unbalanced interconnect cables.

I'm getting g a slight ground loop noise. I've tried different outlets, conditioners, etc.

Could it be because the marantz does not have a ground plug?


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post #9528 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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Ground loops...

I recently plugged my sr 6010 to a rotel 5 channel amp with unbalanced interconnect cables.

I'm getting g a slight ground loop noise. I've tried different outlets, conditioners, etc.

Could it be because the marantz does not have a ground plug?
Any other ideas?



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post #9529 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
Ground loops...

I recently plugged my sr 6010 to a rotel 5 channel amp with unbalanced interconnect cables.

I'm getting g a slight ground loop noise. I've tried different outlets, conditioners, etc.
Are both amps plugged into the same outlet or power strip/line conditioner?

Have you connected a ground wire between the ground terminal on the two amps?

Quote:
Could it be because the marantz does not have a ground plug?
Well, it is possible that grounding the Marantz will help with the ground loop noise.
However, it is also possible to get a ground loop with a 3-prong plug used by class-I appliances as well.

The class-II double-insulated design used by the Marantz is much safer than a class-I design requiring grounding,
which is only safe if and to the extent that the building electrical safety ground is in good shape.

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post #9530 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
Are both amps plugged into the same outlet or power strip/line conditioner?

Have you connected a ground wire between the ground terminal on the two amps?

Well, it is possible that grounding the Marantz will help with the ground loop noise.
However, it is also possible to get a ground loop with a 3-prong plug used by class-I appliances as well.

The class-II double-insulated design used by the Marantz is much safer than a class-I design requiring grounding,
which is only safe if and to the extent that the building electrical safety ground is in good shape.


The marantz and rotel...I have tried same outlet, same surge strip, and same conditioner....the noise is worse when the the amp and pre are plugged into different outlets.

How can I ground the marantz and the rotel together?

Thanks!



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post #9531 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
How can I ground the marantz and the rotel together?
Run a 16 gauge or heavier copper wire between them.

On the Marantz 6010, the signal ground post is located just below HDMI input #1 on the back...

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post #9532 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
Run a 16 gauge or heavier copper wire between them.

On the Marantz 6010, the signal ground post is located just below HDMI input #1 on the back...


Thanks
The rotel has no grounding post, but a 3 prong outlet. Any recommendations on how to connect the marantz ground to the rotel?




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post #9533 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 06:35 PM
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Thanks
The rotel has no grounding post, but a 3 prong outlet. Any recommendations on how to connect the marantz ground to the rotel?
If the Rotel has a 3-prong outlet, it is a class-I design and the outer metal enclosure should be tied to ground.

So, you should be able to use one of the screws holding the top of the enclosure.
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post #9534 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
If the Rotel has a 3-prong outlet, it is a class-I design and the outer metal enclosure should be tied to ground.

So, you should be able to use one of the screws holding the top of the enclosure.


I grounded the Marantz to the rotel case and it helped a lot. But there is still a buzz when I put my ear to the tweeter.

I tried disconnecting all interconnects and the 12v trigger and there is still a buzz from the amp.

Any ideas?


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post #9535 of 12343 Old 07-17-2017, 09:59 PM
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^^^ If the issue happens even with the Rotel disconnected from the 6010 source, it is internal to that amp.

Make sure that site wiring is OK, check line voltage and for excessive voltage between neutral and ground if you have a meter or GFCI tester. You can try a 120VAC isolation transformer, good UPS, or similar "line conditioner" and see what those do. But if those don't help, you're probably looking at a recap job or similar service.

However, if the noise is reduced to the point where you can only hear it with your ear against the speakers, well, that's not bad. You'll have to decide whether the level of noise is worth spending the time + money to fix....

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post #9536 of 12343 Old 07-18-2017, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
^^^ If the issue happens even with the Rotel disconnected from the 6010 source, it is internal to that amp.

Make sure that site wiring is OK, check line voltage and for excessive voltage between neutral and ground if you have a meter or GFCI tester. You can try a 120VAC isolation transformer, good UPS, or similar "line conditioner" and see what those do. But if those don't help, you're probably looking at a recap job or similar service.

However, if the noise is reduced to the point where you can only hear it with your ear against the speakers, well, that's not bad. You'll have to decide whether the level of noise is worth spending the time + money to fix....


I tried a Tripp Lite Lc1200 which is a line conditioner with noise filler and the noise did not go away.

Would a true isolation transformer work?

Thanks



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post #9537 of 12343 Old 07-18-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Newbie789 View Post
I grounded the Marantz to the rotel case and it helped a lot. But there is still a buzz when I put my ear to the tweeter.

I tried disconnecting all interconnects and the 12v trigger and there is still a buzz from the amp.

Any ideas?


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Do you have a cable TV box?
There are whole thread on hum / buzz... you will need to take out all the cables, plug them in one by one to find the offending cable.. good luck mate!
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post #9538 of 12343 Old 07-18-2017, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by petetherock View Post
Do you have a cable TV box?

There are whole thread on hum / buzz... you will need to take out all the cables, plug them in one by one to find the offending cable.. good luck mate!


Thanks

I took put all the cables from the amp except the speaker wires and there's still a slight buzz.

I called magnolia and they said they have a slight buzz on their same amp/speaker combo....maybe it's normal?


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post #9539 of 12343 Old 07-18-2017, 05:41 PM
 
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@jdsmoothie - thank you again for your help. I changed my HMDI Control Setting and ARC Setting to 'ON' on the receiver and I am now receiving the Netflix TV audio through the receiver.

While I also have my 'TV Audio Switching' setting set to 'ON' the receiver does not automatically change to the TV Audio source when Netflix starts up - I have to manually select it via the remote. I also changed my Anynet+ HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to 'ON' and tested this again, the source input still did not switch automatically. Lastly when I switched this TV setting, I also re-ran into the problem of my 4K Player automatically spooling up.

Seems if I keep the Anynet+ HDMI-CEC setting on my Television switched to 'OFF' and I keep the settings 'ON' that you provided for the AVR - everything works well, the only drawback is that the sources do not change automatically.

So long story short, as long as I am comfortable switching my sources manually on the AVR I get results that I am looking for. I can live with the sources not changing automatically.
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post #9540 of 12343 Old 07-18-2017, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioNewGuy View Post
@jdsmoothie - thank you again for your help. I changed my HMDI Control Setting and ARC Setting to 'ON' on the receiver and I am now receiving the Netflix TV audio through the receiver.

While I also have my 'TV Audio Switching' setting set to 'ON' the receiver does not automatically change to the TV Audio source when Netflix starts up - I have to manually select it via the remote. I also changed my Anynet+ HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to 'ON' and tested this again, the source input still did not switch automatically. Lastly when I switched this TV setting, I also re-ran into the problem of my 4K Player automatically spooling up.

Seems if I keep the Anynet+ HDMI-CEC setting on my Television switched to 'OFF' and I keep the settings 'ON' that you provided for the AVR - everything works well, the only drawback is that the sources do not change automatically.

So long story short, as long as I am comfortable switching my sources manually on the AVR I get results that I am looking for. I can live with the sources not changing automatically.
Prior to the new TV Audio Switching setting being introduced 3 years ago, the AVR always switched to the TV Audio source when first powered on which was quite annoying for many owners. Now this new setting allows the manual switching only when desired.

To resolve your issue, with Anynet+ set to ON on the TV, try setting the TV Audio Switching setting to OFF and then ON again, then power off the AVR and TV and unplug each device's power cords for 10 minutes. Then plug back in and power on the TV first followed a few seconds later by the AVR and see if that fixes the TV Audio Switching function.
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