*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 332 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9931 of 12468 Old 09-16-2017, 02:23 PM
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Help! Just added 4 on ceiling speakers for DolbyAtmos/Auro 3D sound and I am having audio dropouts when listening to movies at reference level. Will adding a multichannel amplifier solve this issue? And what amp and how many channels of amplification necessary to unburden my Marantz SR7010? Thanks.
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post #9932 of 12468 Old 09-16-2017, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frabnkgonsalves View Post
Help! Just added 4 on ceiling speakers for DolbyAtmos/Auro 3D sound and I am having audio dropouts when listening to movies at reference level. Will adding a multichannel amplifier solve this issue? And what amp and how many channels of amplification necessary to unburden my Marantz SR7010? Thanks.
Hello! You need a 5.1 Amp. driving the four heights plus if you will want the Center Top or Vog channel ( signal from Sr7010 Sw2 preout to Center channel input in the new 5.1 amp.).
Better and more relief would be given to the Sr7010 using an external Stereo Amp for your fronts.
But ... we do not even know what loudspeakers you have! Are they 4/6 Ohms maybe?
Regards
Alessandro

Inviato dal mio ASUS_Z00AD utilizzando Tapatalk
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post #9933 of 12468 Old 09-16-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn800art View Post
Hello! You need a 5.1 Amp. driving the four heights plus if you will want the Center Top or Vog channel ( signal from Sr7010 Sw2 preout to Center channel input in the new 5.1 amp.).
Better and more relief would be given to the Sr7010 using an external Stereo Amp for your fronts.
But ... we do not even know what loudspeakers you have! Are they 4/6 Ohms maybe?
Regards
Alessandro

Inviato dal mio ASUS_Z00AD utilizzando Tapatalk
Sorry. I have Vandersteen 3, VCC center channel and VSM-1 on wall surrounds. My Atmos/Auro 3D speakers are Definitive Technology ProMonitor 1000 mounted on ceiling. I use 2 Hsu subwoofers as well. I was thinking of a 5 channel amp to drive the Vandersteens and let the SR7010 drive the ceiling speakers. All recommendations are welcome. Thanks.
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post #9934 of 12468 Old 09-17-2017, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frabnkgonsalves View Post
Sorry. I have Vandersteen 3, VCC center channel and VSM-1 on wall surrounds. My Atmos/Auro 3D speakers are Definitive Technology ProMonitor 1000 mounted on ceiling. I use 2 Hsu subwoofers as well. I was thinking of a 5 channel amp to drive the Vandersteens and let the SR7010 drive the ceiling speakers. All recommendations are welcome. Thanks.
The ProMonitor 1000 speakers are fairly efficient while your Vandersteen are not so your best bet is likely to purchase a more powerful 2CH or 3CH amp (eg. 250W+) to power at least the FL/FR (if not the FL/C/FR) speakers.
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post #9935 of 12468 Old 09-17-2017, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frabnkgonsalves View Post
Help! Just added 4 on ceiling speakers for DolbyAtmos/Auro 3D sound and I am having audio dropouts when listening to movies at reference level. Will adding a multichannel amplifier solve this issue? And what amp and how many channels of amplification necessary to unburden my Marantz SR7010? Thanks.

Any descent 5 channels would do
Very affordable for the value;
https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/5000.html

A power amp give really value to power, when AVR can cheat by saying any number of Watts per channels, but how many channels driven at the same time is very questionable


If I were You, I would use that new amp to power the front 3 first.
Second, surrounds they very likely need much less power.
Then use your AVR for ceiling duty to power the ceiling ones, even less power from the amp section of the AVR.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 09-17-2017 at 08:15 PM.
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post #9936 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frabnkgonsalves View Post
Help! Just added 4 on ceiling speakers for DolbyAtmos/Auro 3D sound and I am having audio dropouts when listening to movies at reference level. Will adding a multichannel amplifier solve this issue? And what amp and how many channels of amplification necessary to unburden my Marantz SR7010? Thanks.
Intermittent dropouts normally are not caused by amplifier limitations.

Over-stressing the receiver's amps by playing at high sound levels with 4 Ohm speakers usually causes the receiver to trip off completely, going into "protection mode". When this happens, the "standby" light will flash red quickly with several blinks per second. If the receiver trips off due to overheating, the LED will blink slowly with several seconds per blink.

Intermittent dropouts often are caused by poor or intermittent cable connections. When playing loudly, vibrations can cause loose cables, both HDMI and speaker cables, to wiggle loose and make intermittent connections.

If you get intermittent audio and/or video dropouts at all sound levels, that's usually caused by deficient HDMI cables. "Certified Premium" HDMI cables are required, capable of transporting 18 GigaBits/second.

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post #9937 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Correct. Max 7CH processing so either Surround Back or 2 Atmos.
I have a follow up question if you don't mind. If I play a regular(non atmos) Bluray movie in 7.1, will I be hearing back surround info coming from the Atmos speakers? I obviously would not want that. This would be when I have the amp assignment of the SR5010 set to back surround. Thanks again for the help.

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post #9938 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mdanderson View Post
I have a follow up question if you don't mind. If I play a regular(non atmos) Bluray movie in 7.1, will I be hearing back surround info coming from the Atmos speakers? I obviously would not want that. This would be when I have the amp assignment of the SR5010 set to back surround. Thanks again for the help.
Yes. It doesn't matter where the speakers are physically located.
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post #9939 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yes. It doesn't matter where the speakers are physically located.
Thanks for the input. I think I will wait until I can afford a more advanced prepro/receiver before I try Atmos.

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post #9940 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 03:43 PM
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Hey-
I am trying to hook up a legacy Sony CD player from the early 90s (CDP-CE315) to my Marantz NR1606-powered system. It worked fine at my mom's house just last month, but now is not producing any sound. Am using analog cables (W/R), and they are plugged into the only option on the back of the CD player, and run into the CD 3 input on the back of the Marantz. The CD player is powered on, and I turned to the CD input on the Marantz, etc. Even tried a different set of cables.

Am I missing something here? Do I need to assign the inputs or something? If so, what setting is necessary?

Thanks for your help.

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post #9941 of 12468 Old 09-18-2017, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kbbfooz View Post
Hey-
I am trying to hook up a legacy Sony CD player from the early 90s (CDP-CE315) to my Marantz NR1606-powered system. It worked fine at my mom's house just last month, but now is not producing any sound. Am using analog cables (W/R), and they are plugged into the only option on the back of the CD player, and run into the CD 3 input on the back of the Marantz. The CD player is powered on, and I turned to the CD input on the Marantz, etc. Even tried a different set of cables.

Am I missing something here? Do I need to assign the inputs or something? If so, what setting is necessary?

Thanks for your help.
The CD source on the NR1606 defaults to "analog" so there shouldn't be any setting to change. Ensure the volume of the CD player is raised high enough. Also try the other two analog audio inputs as well.
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post #9942 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 06:54 AM
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I’m hoping someone out there can test for DD+ over arc for the Marantz SR6010 receiver. This is the model that I own. However, I can’t run the test as I’m using a 2012 Panasonic Plasma currently. I’m going to upgrade to a 2018 LG OLED next year and if DD+ works over arc then I won’t have to upgrade my receiver.
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post #9943 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 06:57 AM
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Has the DV update been released yet?
Thanks
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post #9944 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by soonerkevin View Post
I’m hoping someone out there can test for DD+ over arc for the Marantz SR6010 receiver. This is the model that I own. However, I can’t run the test as I’m using a 2012 Panasonic Plasma currently. I’m going to upgrade to a 2018 LG OLED next year and if DD+ works over arc then I won’t have to upgrade my receiver.
No reason it shouldn't.
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post #9945 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 07:00 AM
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Has the DV update been released yet?
Thanks
Not to the Marantz models, no, rather only to the lower level 2016 Denon models at this point. Likely won't see it on the 2015 D+M models for a month or two.
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post #9946 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Not to the Marantz models, no, rather only to the lower level 2016 Denon models at this point. Likely won't see it on the 2015 D+M models for a month or two.
Bummer. I want to be seeing Dolby Vision on the new Apple TV this weekend...
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post #9947 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 03:04 PM
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SR6010: Switch to Standby not working with TOSLINK only...?

I have the automatic shutdown or "Switch to Standby mode" enabled after two hours.

This has been working fine when the connection was using either multichannel RCA or HDMI, however, when using optical TOSLINK, my SR6010 stays on forever. Source is an HTPC which is usually encoding audio to AC3 using Dolby Digital Live. (Although it would be bitstreaming the original audio in whatever format, so it might switch to EAC3 for Dolby Digital Plus / TrueHD when playing a movie, or maybe 2-channel PCM if I play an audio file.)

Any thoughts on what to try or tweak?

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post #9948 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
I have the automatic shutdown or "Switch to Standby mode" enabled after two hours.

This has been working fine when the connection was using either multichannel RCA or HDMI, however, when using optical TOSLINK, my SR6010 stays on forever. Source is an HTPC which is usually encoding audio to AC3 using Dolby Digital Live. (Although it would be bitstreaming the original audio in whatever format, so it might switch to EAC3 for Dolby Digital Plus / TrueHD when playing a movie, or maybe 2-channel PCM if I play an audio file.)

Any thoughts on what to try or tweak?
You apparently set the "Auto Standby" for Zone 2, as the main zone only goes up to 60 minutes.
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post #9949 of 12468 Old 09-19-2017, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
You apparently set the "Auto Standby" for Zone 2, as the main zone only goes up to 60 minutes.
I'm fairly sure I'm talking about the Main Zone and not Zone 2, but am less sure about whether I'd set it to one hour versus two.

Here are my settings:



...so auto-standby enabled after 1 hour for Main Zone, and after 2 hours for Zone 2.

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Last edited by cswiger; 09-19-2017 at 05:30 PM. Reason: #edit: updated to add image of settings
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post #9950 of 12468 Old 09-20-2017, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
I'm fairly sure I'm talking about the Main Zone and not Zone 2, but am less sure about whether I'd set it to one hour versus two.

Here are my settings:

...so auto-standby enabled after 1 hour for Main Zone, and after 2 hours for Zone 2.
AFAIK, there is no signal input limitation when using this setting. Try doing a "soft reset" by powering off and unplugging the AVR power cable for 10 minutes.
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post #9951 of 12468 Old 09-20-2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The CD source on the NR1606 defaults to "analog" so there shouldn't be any setting to change. Ensure the volume of the CD player is raised high enough. Also try the other two analog audio inputs as well.
There is no volume setting on the CD player, and the other two analog audio inputs are also not working. I believe they are for Blu-Ray (2) and Cab/Sat (1); changing the selected input still results in no sound.

What now? Thanks.

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post #9952 of 12468 Old 09-20-2017, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kbbfooz View Post
There is no volume setting on the CD player, and the other two analog audio inputs are also not working. I believe they are for Blu-Ray (2) and Cab/Sat (1); changing the selected input still results in no sound.

What now? Thanks.
Test it at your Mom's house again to ensure it still works.
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post #9953 of 12468 Old 09-20-2017, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
AFAIK, there is no signal input limitation when using this setting. Try doing a "soft reset" by powering off and unplugging the AVR power cable for 10 minutes.
Thanks for the reply.

I tried doing the soft reset, but it didn't seem to make a difference; the issue is still reproducible.
With this setup, the AVR enters standby as expected:

Code:
Audio
  Sound Mode    7.1CH IN
  Input Signal    Analog
  Format    //.0

ZONE: MAIN ZONE
  Select Source DVD
  Name    DVD
  Sound Mode    7.1CH IN
  Input Mode    EXTERNAL IN
  ECO Mode    Auto
  HDMI    2
However, with the following setup, the AVR stays on forever:

Code:
Audio
  Sound Mode    Dolby Digital
  Input Signal    Dolby Digital
  Sample Rate    48 kHz
  Format    3/2/.1

ZONE: MAIN ZONE
  Select Source    Blu-ray
  Name    Blu-ray
  Sound Mode    Dolby Digital
  Input Mode    Auto
  Decode Mode    Auto
  ECO Mode    Auto
  HDMI    3
  Digital    OPT1
Note that I'm just routing audio to the AVR, so the HDMI port doesn't matter for these two cases.

Also, the HTPC will go to sleep itself after an hour, so I assume the optical TOSLINK connection shuts down then-- at the very least, there is no chance that it's sending a low-volume digitized hiss or something like that which might make the AVR still think it was getting an active signal to play.

Normally, I don't rely on the auto-standby, but I do forget once it a while so I'd still like it to work.
Ah, well, I'll try to experiment some more with it.

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post #9954 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
Also, the HTPC will go to sleep itself after an hour, so I assume the optical TOSLINK connection shuts down then-- at the very least, there is no chance that it's sending a low-volume digitized hiss or something like that which might make the AVR still think it was getting an active signal to play.

Normally, I don't rely on the auto-standby, but I do forget once it a while so I'd still like it to work.
Ah, well, I'll try to experiment some more with it.
Apparently not. Simple test ... just pull the optical cable.
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post #9955 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Not to the Marantz models, no, rather only to the lower level 2016 Denon models at this point. Likely won't see it on the 2015 D+M models for a month or two.
Thanks for the heads up! I look forward to it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaremyP View Post
Bummer. I want to be seeing Dolby Vision on the new Apple TV this weekend...
No doubt dude! I have been on a whirlwind ride with this ATV news. So much mis-information and too much excitement on my part.

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post #9956 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Test it at your Mom's house again to ensure it still works.
Ha! That's a long haul; brought it 1000+ miles this summer. How about another plan, maybe?

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post #9957 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 05:03 PM
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I just went 4k with the Vizio P65 and an Xbox One S, and seem to have a Marantz 4k passthrough/processing issue.

The Vizio's HDMI5 is meant to be a PC Gamer input with very low input lag and can process 1080p/60 no problem. I don't think Vizio does any processing on the incoming signal.

HDMI's 1-4 are normal, full 4k with HDR.

My 7702mkII is hooked up to the Vizio via 2 connections:
1) Marantz Monitor 1/ARC to HDMI5
2) Monitor 2 to HDMI4

When I'm playing the Xbox, either 4k bluray or streaming netflix, to HDMI4....I get the dreaded "No Signal - HDMI 4" error! No video coming through.

I switch to HDMI5 and I get the video and full audio (ie, Atmos or DTS-X). Then if I switch back to HDMI4, I get everything works fine. The Vizio even shows "2160 HD" on top of the screen.

Please help!

ps: I've connected the Xbox straight to HDMI4 (no cables connected to Marantz) and have no problem getting video. And audio (TV's speakers).
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post #9958 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky View Post
I just went 4k with the Vizio P65 and an Xbox One S, and seem to have a Marantz 4k passthrough/processing issue.

The Vizio's HDMI5 is meant to be a PC Gamer input with very low input lag and can process 1080p/60 no problem. I don't think Vizio does any processing on the incoming signal.

HDMI's 1-4 are normal, full 4k with HDR.

My 7702mkII is hooked up to the Vizio via 2 connections:
1) Marantz Monitor 1/ARC to HDMI5
2) Monitor 2 to HDMI4

When I'm playing the Xbox, either 4k bluray or streaming netflix, to HDMI4....I get the dreaded "No Signal - HDMI 4" error! No video coming through.

I switch to HDMI5 and I get the video and full audio (ie, Atmos or DTS-X). Then if I switch back to HDMI4, I get everything works fine. The Vizio even shows "2160 HD" on top of the screen.

Please help!

ps: I've connected the Xbox straight to HDMI4 (no cables connected to Marantz) and have no problem getting video. And audio (TV's speakers).
Forgot to mention:

For Video/HDMI Setup, I chose:
Auto Lip Sync = ON
Video Output = Auto (Dual)
HDMI Control = OFF
- ARC = OFF
- HDMI Passthrough = On

For Output Settings:
Video Mode = Auto
Video Conversion = On (to get volume on OSD...sometimes it doesn't work)
i/p Scaler =Off
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post #9959 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Apparently not. Simple test ... just pull the optical cable.
This was a good suggestion.

With the optical cable pulled, the AVR will enter standby as expected. Well, that must mean the optical cable is sending something which keeps the AVR on that is coming from the HTPC. Gives me a starting point to look into, at least.

Primary (2.1): Thiel CS 1.2 / Velodyne F1000 sub / Adcom GFA-555 Mk2 / Rotel 970BX / Sony CDP-CA9 ES
Secondary (5.1): Paradigm Mini-Monitor v.3 / CC270 v.3 center / ADP-170 v.2 surrounds /
SVS SB1000 sub / Marantz SR-6010 / AppleTV + Win7 PC / BenQ BL3200PT
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post #9960 of 12468 Old 09-21-2017, 07:00 PM
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Finally got my AV7702mkII back from the Repair Center.


Unfortunately the buzzing noise is still there on the RCA Output. The Marantz Customer Service told me to send it back. I told them before doing so, I would like to try a XLR connector with cable that change into an RCA connector, since I suspected a bad RCA board because all XLR connections are perfect (my main 7 channels amp is XLR, and the one for ceiling duty is not).


After trying those cheating adapter cords, the hole system is finally silent and no more buzzing noise
Just some info for someone that will run into a similar situation, the post will be long gone, but some members might remember this fix.


Now to my question.
I am not sure what they did at the repair center, but after doing my calibration. Every time I turn On the AVP, the upgrade available show-up, I thought it would be for the DTS:X, but no it's for the Euro 3D. So maybe the DTS:X was done at the repair center.


Is there a way to decline the Euro 3D upgrade, so it no longer show up as upgrade available since, I do not need-it.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 09-21-2017 at 07:04 PM.
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