*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 406 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12151 of 12284 Old 06-16-2019, 12:36 PM
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Finding this is a very touchy receiver....

Yesterday it was a cold rainy day here in Mid Michigan and I decided to play with my router's placement. My 5Ghz reception in some areas was weaker than I"d like. So I disconnected the router, put it on a 25' extension cord and moved it around tracking reception with a wifi analyzer on my phone. Took a couple of hours, ended up in basically the same locations I had only much lower for some reason.

Anyway, later on when I sat down to watch a movie I found I had no sound from my 7010 - on any input! I did nothing to the receiver that day. Powered off then on, nothing. Decided to pull the plug for a while, it was awful listening to my tv speakers- about half an hour later when I plugged it back in it was fine. Have no idea why simply disconnecting my router from my home network would cause this. The receiver remained connect to the wired network otherwise, switches and such - I do not use wifi unless I really have to, the 7010 does not even have the antennas installed. Anyway just wanted to report this in case of anyone else has similar issues...
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post #12152 of 12284 Old 06-19-2019, 08:57 AM
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I am the new owner of a SR5010 and am having Bluetooth issues - I have tried with a Samsung Note 8, Note 5 and S5.

When I first received the receiver (about a week ago) I connected the Note 8 without issue for a few hours, but walked out of Bluetooth range and lost connection - I have yet to regain the connection on the Note 8 (phone states "Cannot Connect"). I have tried unpairing the Note 8 multiple times with no luck - but the receiver does state that it is connected to the Note 8.

I am unable to connect at all with the Note 5 or S5. The receiver states that it is connected to each individual phone independently, but the phones state "Cannot Connect".

I ran a search in this thread but didn't see any solutions.

My previous receiver (Onkyo TX-SR304.5) would run 16-18 hours a day just playing FM radio with no issues - the SR5010 FM radio is abysmal, constantly dropping the signal and intolerable to listen to. Obviously I have music on all day long and am looking for a solution!
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post #12153 of 12284 Old 06-19-2019, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ShakingHorizons View Post
I am the new owner of a SR5010 and am having Bluetooth issues - I have tried with a Samsung Note 8, Note 5 and S5.

When I first received the receiver (about a week ago) I connected the Note 8 without issue for a few hours, but walked out of Bluetooth range and lost connection - I have yet to regain the connection on the Note 8 (phone states "Cannot Connect"). I have tried unpairing the Note 8 multiple times with no luck - but the receiver does state that it is connected to the Note 8.

I am unable to connect at all with the Note 5 or S5. The receiver states that it is connected to each individual phone independently, but the phones state "Cannot Connect".

I ran a search in this thread but didn't see any solutions.

My previous receiver (Onkyo TX-SR304.5) would run 16-18 hours a day just playing FM radio with no issues - the SR5010 FM radio is abysmal, constantly dropping the signal and intolerable to listen to. Obviously I have music on all day long and am looking for a solution!
Refer to post 4 and do a "Discrete Network chip reset" to see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise consider using WiFi instead.
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post #12154 of 12284 Old 06-19-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Refer to post 4 and do a "Discrete Network chip reset" to see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise consider using WiFi instead.
I saw the post about the chip reset, just didn't know if that would possibly resolve my issue.

In regards to using WiFi, are you speaking of the Internet Radio?
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post #12155 of 12284 Old 06-19-2019, 03:02 PM
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I saw the post about the chip reset, just didn't know if that would possibly resolve my issue.

In regards to using WiFi, are you speaking of the Internet Radio?
Nope. Using an app on your phone to stream the audio to the AVR.
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post #12156 of 12284 Old 06-20-2019, 06:28 AM
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Nope. Using an app on your phone to stream the audio to the AVR.
That's above my pay grade, lol.


I did the soft reset last night and bluetooth now functions as normal - thank you!
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post #12157 of 12284 Old 07-02-2019, 02:56 PM
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Marantz SR7010 Trying to use Audyssey without calibrating subs

I have a Marantz AVR and a 7.1.4 setup. I can't figure out how to run Audyssey without it calibrating my subs. I only want the other 7 channels calibrated. I don't like the filter it applies to my sub and they sound better without. I see an option to calibrate without subs. That deletes them from the AVR totally. As soon as I add them back in after running calibration it removes the Audyssey Calibration on the other 7 channels. It seems it's all or nothing.



TLDR:

How can I bypass filtering on my subs while using Audyssey for my mains?
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post #12158 of 12284 Old 07-02-2019, 03:19 PM
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I don't think you can.

What kind of sub do you have and what don't you like about its results? Most would argue that equalizing the subwoofer is most important and like to limit the EQ to 300hz or so.

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post #12159 of 12284 Old 07-02-2019, 04:24 PM
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I don't think you can.

What kind of sub do you have and what don't you like about its results? Most would argue that equalizing the subwoofer is most important and like to limit the EQ to 300hz or so.

The power and punch they had before EQ is completely gone. They are two SVS SB-3000 subs. After calibration Audyssey Sets them in the AVR to -8 and -7.5 respectively. I've bumped that back up to -4 and -3.5. Also via the SVS app they need a -19 for the Audyssey 75DB calibration. I've also bumped that up to -10. Unfortunately the punch just isn't there like before. I'm sure it's being filtered off some how as part of the room correction. I think i'll have to spin up REW and see if I can get a clearer picture. For now I have Audyssey off and the subs are fine, I miss the calibration on my other 7 channels though.
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post #12160 of 12284 Old 07-02-2019, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Martin View Post
I have a Marantz AVR and a 7.1.4 setup. I can't figure out how to run Audyssey without it calibrating my subs. I only want the other 7 channels calibrated. I don't like the filter it applies to my sub and they sound better without. I see an option to calibrate without subs. That deletes them from the AVR totally. As soon as I add them back in after running calibration it removes the Audyssey Calibration on the other 7 channels. It seems it's all or nothing.



TLDR:

How can I bypass filtering on my subs while using Audyssey for my mains?
Not possible. However, with a 2016 or newer model, you could use the MultEQ Editor app to run Audyssey and then use it to exclude the subwoofer EQ.

Consider doing the "subwoofer crawl" (google) to better locate your subs in the room.
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post #12161 of 12284 Old 07-06-2019, 02:24 PM
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It seems that when "Zone2ing" via Zone2 HDMI passthrough that the input can't be your TV audio (via ARC).

Also, I bought the $20 Audyssey Multi Editor app and it is TERRIFIC.
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post #12162 of 12284 Old 07-06-2019, 05:21 PM
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It seems that when "Zone2ing" via Zone2 HDMI passthrough that the input can't be your TV audio (via ARC).

Also, I bought the $20 Audyssey Multi Editor app and it is TERRIFIC.
Correct. Can only be one of the HDMI "inputs" on the back of the AVR.
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post #12163 of 12284 Old 07-07-2019, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post
It seems that when "Zone2ing" via Zone2 HDMI passthrough that the input can't be your TV audio (via ARC).

Also, I bought the $20 Audyssey Multi Editor app and it is TERRIFIC.
I own a SR7010 (2015) and I thought that the "Audyssey Multi Editor app" would only work with 2016 and newer models. Is there something that I missed ?

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post #12164 of 12284 Old 07-07-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiskeyJ View Post
I own a SR7010 (2015) and I thought that the "Audyssey Multi Editor app" would only work with 2016 and newer models. Is there something that I missed ?

Jack
You're right, it doesn't make nice with the 7010 unfortunately

I have a couple of later model Denons which was the basis for my comments. About a month ago I was reporting on negative reviews coming from the Google Play store and I felt I had to set the record straight
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post #12165 of 12284 Old 07-08-2019, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Not possible. However, with a 2016 or newer model, you could use the MultEQ Editor app to run Audyssey and then use it to exclude the subwoofer EQ.

Consider doing the "subwoofer crawl" (google) to better locate your subs in the room.
When you do the speaker setup, can't you choose "0" subwoofers? Then run Audyssey, and after you calibrate add the subwoofer back to the mix?

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post #12166 of 12284 Old 07-08-2019, 09:16 AM
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When you do the speaker setup, can't you choose "0" subwoofers? Then run Audyssey, and after you calibrate add the subwoofer back to the mix?
Nope. Whenever a new speaker/sub is added to the configuration post Audyssey, Audyssey is disabled until it is either run again with the new configuration or until the configuration is returned to the original Audyssey configuration.
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post #12167 of 12284 Old 07-15-2019, 10:35 AM
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Question - can the 12v trigger out on my 7010 control my older Sony AVR via Control A1II? The Sony is powering all 4 of my Atmos speakers and at this point it's on all the time. Rough calculations indicate idling it's costing me $3 ish a month in wasted power. It would be easier to add a simple cable rather than reprogramming my Harmony remote.
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post #12168 of 12284 Old 07-15-2019, 10:48 AM
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Question - can the 12v trigger out on my 7010 control my older Sony AVR via Control A1II? The Sony is powering all 4 of my Atmos speakers and at this point it's on all the time. Rough calculations indicate idling it's costing me $3 ish a month in wasted power. It would be easier to add a simple cable rather than reprogramming my Harmony remote.
Not likely as AVR trigger jacks are "out" jacks not "in" jacks as one would normally find on a dedicated amp.
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post #12169 of 12284 Old 07-15-2019, 10:57 AM
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Not likely as AVR trigger jacks are "out" jacks not "in" jacks as one would normally find on a dedicated amp.
your right, i missed that, i thought what he posted was a Sony power amp, i missed that AVR in that sentence!

i'll delete the post to not cause confusion.

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post #12170 of 12284 Old 07-15-2019, 07:51 PM
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@jdsmoothie

I’m running Netflix on Apple TV 4K to my SR7010 via HDMI. Streaming stranger things season 3 in Dolby digital plus.

During playback, when I click the information button 7010 remote control I see below displayed:



Am I getting Dolby digital plus 5.1? Why does audio signal indicate ‘PCM’?

Do I have a setting foweled up on AVR, Apple TV 4K or Netflix app?

Thanks in advance for any insight.


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post #12171 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
Question - can the 12v trigger out on my 7010 control my older Sony AVR via Control A1II? The Sony is powering all 4 of my Atmos speakers and at this point it's on all the time. Rough calculations indicate idling it's costing me $3 ish a month in wasted power. It would be easier to add a simple cable rather than reprogramming my Harmony remote.
What about a "Master/Slave" power strip?
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post #12172 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
@jdsmoothie

I’m running Netflix on Apple TV 4K to my SR7010 via HDMI. Streaming stranger things season 3 in Dolby digital plus.

During playback, when I click the information button 7010 remote control I see below displayed:

Am I getting Dolby digital plus 5.1? Why does audio signal indicate ‘PCM’?

Do I have a setting foweled up on AVR, Apple TV 4K or Netflix app?

Thanks in advance for any insight.


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The Apple TV 4K does not use Atmos over Dolby Digital Plus. Instead it sends Atmos audio to the receiver over PCM, using Dolby MAT v2 so although "ATMOS" will be displayed for an Atmos source, when non-Atmos audio is received, the receiver will display "MULTI CH IN".

When the source device (eg, Blu Ray player) IS able to "bitstream" the DD/DTS audio in it's compressed format to the AVR, the AVR display reads DD/DTS and the AVR decompresses (think unzips) the DD/DTS to PCM.

When the source device decompresses the DD/DTS audio to PCM, the AVR has no clue whether it was originally DD or DTS, so therefore will display "Multi CH In."
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Last edited by jdsmoothie; 07-16-2019 at 10:35 AM.
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post #12173 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The Apple TV 4K does not use Atmos over Dolby Digital Plus. Instead it sends Atmos audio to the receiver over PCM, using Dolby MAT v2 so although "ATMOS" will be displayed for an Atmos source, when non-Atmos audio is received, the receiver will display "MULTI CH IN".



When the source device (eg, Blu Ray player) IS able to "bitstream" the DD/DTS audio in it's compressed format to the AVR, the AVR display reads DD/DTS and the AVR decompresses (think unzips) the DD/DTS to PCM.



When the source device decompresses the DD/DTS audio to PCM, the AVR has no clue whether it was originally DD or DTS, so therefore will display "Multi CH In."

So PCM multi channel in is not a problem and I’m all good correct?


Super thorough explanation thank you as always.


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post #12174 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 02:34 PM
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So PCM multi channel in is not a problem and I’m all good correct?


Super thorough explanation thank you as always.


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Yes. However, with all things streamed, you're still getting lossy audio. Even though the Apple TV is sending a PCM signal, all it did was decode the Dolby Digital Plus lossy track internally in real time as it is sent from the various streaming services and then sending it out as PCM via HDMI.


Your receiver also does that with DTS and Dolby Digital branded lossy and lossless audio files internally... converting the final decoded result back to PCM for the digital-to-analog audio converters and other DSP functions and calibration software to work properly as they use PCM data. It's just that with lossy compression, you still lose data that has been thrown away. With lossless, all data is unzipped and fully recovered. The final PCM file is just like the original master track.
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post #12175 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLely View Post
What about a "Master/Slave" power strip?

That is an option, but I think the route I'll go is to add the Sony to my old Harmony remote and set it to turn on/off the AVR. The older Harmony's can be a pain to deal with when you have an "odd" situation.
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Yes. However, with all things streamed, you're still getting lossy audio. Even though the Apple TV is sending a PCM signal, all it did was decode the Dolby Digital Plus lossy track internally in real time as it is sent from the various streaming services and then sending it out as PCM via HDMI.


Your receiver also does that with DTS and Dolby Digital branded lossy and lossless audio files internally... converting the final decoded result back to PCM for the digital-to-analog audio converters and other DSP functions and calibration software to work properly as they use PCM data. It's just that with lossy compression, you still lose data that has been thrown away. With lossless, all data is unzipped and fully recovered. The final PCM file is just like the original master track.


As always you guys have a very thorough understanding of this I grasp about 90% of it and then the other 10 slips away. Ha ha.

So is there anything I can do to improve the quality of Netflix premium streaming across Apple TV 4K within my set up? Or was your point simply that even though it’s PCM it’s lossy due to the source being Dolby Digital plus and this cannot be changed for Netflix?


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post #12177 of 12284 Old 07-16-2019, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Yes. However, with all things streamed, you're still getting lossy audio. Even though the Apple TV is sending a PCM signal, all it did was decode the Dolby Digital Plus lossy track internally in real time as it is sent from the various streaming services and then sending it out as PCM via HDMI.


Your receiver also does that with DTS and Dolby Digital branded lossy and lossless audio files internally... converting the final decoded result back to PCM for the digital-to-analog audio converters and other DSP functions and calibration software to work properly as they use PCM data. It's just that with lossy compression, you still lose data that has been thrown away. With lossless, all data is unzipped and fully recovered. The final PCM file is just like the original master track.


As always you guys have a very thorough understanding of this I grasp about 90% of it and then the other 10 slips away. Ha ha.

So is there anything I can do to improve the quality of Netflix premium streaming across Apple TV 4K within my set up? Or was your point simply that even though it’️s PCM it’️s lossy due to the source being Dolby Digital plus and this cannot be changed for Netflix?


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Netflix and Amazon and Hulu and all other streaming services have lossy compressed audio. Most all are DD+.

There's nothing you can do about it.

The best thing to do is use Blu-ray and 4k Blu-ray discs.
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Last edited by Dan Hitchman; 07-17-2019 at 09:09 AM.
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post #12178 of 12284 Old 07-17-2019, 12:33 AM
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That is an option, but I think the route I'll go is to add the Sony to my old Harmony remote and set it to turn on/off the AVR. The older Harmony's can be a pain to deal with when you have an "odd" situation.

I have two fan units and a Sony and needed a way to trigger all of them without using a "trigger". I opted for an Alexa device (Amazon Echo). This also means I can turn on the system with voice command since there is a Harmony extension. What ended up happening is HDMI Control and my TV remote ended up being my go to remote except when I'm watching movies or XBOX. I turn on/off with voice, switch the input with voice and the Elite remote stays in the cradle most days.
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post #12179 of 12284 Old 07-17-2019, 07:47 AM
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Creative solutions to problems, I love it. I've got a number of smart plugs in a drawer waiting to be used, I might give it a try.
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post #12180 of 12284 Old 07-17-2019, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Yes. However, with all things streamed, you're still getting lossy audio. Even though the Apple TV is sending a PCM signal, all it did was decode the Dolby Digital Plus lossy track internally in real time as it is sent from the various streaming services and then sending it out as PCM via HDMI.


Your receiver also does that with DTS and Dolby Digital branded lossy and lossless audio files internally... converting the final decoded result back to PCM for the digital-to-analog audio converters and other DSP functions and calibration software to work properly as they use PCM data. It's just that with lossy compression, you still lose data that has been thrown away. With lossless, all data is unzipped and fully recovered. The final PCM file is just like the original master track.
Have there been any double-blind studies to evaluate whether Ss can perceive differences between DD+ and Dolby HD beyond a chance expectation. A number of years ago double-blind trials were performed evaluating various bit rates of mp3 music vs the cd standard. As I recall, once the mp3 bit rate was over 300, differences were indistinguishable. There were some exceptions based on the music and instrument. Harpsichord required very high bit rates.
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