*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 411 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12301 of 12346 Old 11-06-2019, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobDyl View Post
I do. It's definitely been a bit buggy of late. I have had to delete and reinstall the app, while also doing the *network reset* (see first page of posts on this thread) on the 7010. It works well for a couple days but then bugs out again. However, I know Marantz is still updating the app and were aware of several new iOS issues as of a couple weeks ago, so I'm hoping they will do another update.
Not only the application currently has errors. Unfortunately, the receiver itself, in my opinion, also has some network errors that I have been observing for a long time. Occasionally the network connection breaks, no IP number in the network connection information. I have already tried connecting via wifi or ethernet cable, dhcp off with static IP, dhcp on, two different routers. The scenario is always the same: every few days after turning on the receiver, there is no network connection. I know that SR 7010 is already an old model and Marantz probably is not interested in this type of problem anymore ...

The only way to restore the network connection is then to turn off and turn on the receiver's wifi module / or turning off and on dhcp.
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Last edited by legionow112; 11-06-2019 at 03:15 PM.
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post #12302 of 12346 Old 11-07-2019, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by legionow112 View Post
Hi, do any of you use the Marantz app for iOS 13.2 (Marantz AVR Remote 2016 in the latest version)? After the last app update, my application unexpectedly shuts down when I try to turn on SR 7010 from stand by mode or use e.g. the cursor).
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Originally Posted by pappaduke View Post
Subject
Marantz 2016 app not working correctly

Response By Email (NJ Customer Support) (11/06/2019 02:42 PM)
Hi,

We are aware of the App issue when using iOS 13.2 or iOS 3.3.0. Our Engineering team is currently working on a fix and should have it released very soon. We apologize for the inconvenience and hope to have this corrected shortly.

In the meantime, the Apps are working with the Android platform or any iOS device not updated to 13.2 or 3.3.0.

Thanks,
Marantz NA
..
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post #12303 of 12346 Old 11-13-2019, 10:53 PM
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7702Mk2 misbehaving

When I tried watching TV (ARC/CEC is enabled) I couldn't get any sound through the 7702Mk2 via TV Audio input..

I tried a soft reset by unplugging the 7702, and did other things for a couple of hours and tried again; same.

Also no sound or pic from my Bluray player, and ATV won't show up on the TV either, but then nothing does through HDMI, including the OSD.

I briefly got sound on Zone 2 on the iradio input. I tried switching to the Bluray input (which is now the physical CD input) to see if that would have sound on Zone 2; it didn't.

I tried switching back to iradio but couldn't get sound again.

Then again, it often takes inordinate futzing around to get that going with the aid of the OSD, which I now don't have.

The front panel display works, showing volume, input, etc which can also be changed with the remote.

I thought I'd try something in the menus, but nothing happens when I press the Setup buttons on either the remote or the front panel.

I tried both network and microprocessor resets, but nothing happens when I press the GAME/A-DSX or MOVIE/MUSIC buttons.

Another mystifying thing is that for about the last week, I hear a double beep from something in my rack several times per hour.

I don't remember if the beeps started before this issue, as I haven't used the system since last week.

I hear the beeps even with everything disconnected from line power except for a Lutron Caseta bridge.

Does the 7702 (or maybe the Harmony hub or ATV 4k) have a backup battery that might be failing and sending out the beeps?

It's not mentioned in the manual.

Anyone have any ideas?

Noah
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post #12304 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

I tried both network and microprocessor resets, but nothing happens when I press the GAME/A-DSX or MOVIE/MUSIC buttons.
Ensure you are following the reset directions as provided in post 7 as at the very least you should see the word "INITIALIZED" on the front panel display or flashing front panel display. Regarding the HDMI issue, it would seem the HDMI board has been damaged (perhaps via nearby electrical storm or current surge) with option of either repair or replacing the unit. If beyond the 3 year mfr warranty, check with the credit card issuer to see if an "extended warranty" benefit is offered.
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post #12305 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 11:36 AM
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Yes, I looked at post 7.

I tried the reset procedure, which seems slightly vague in regard to the timing of the button presses, so I tried the following:

1) Turn unit off, turn on, wait for it to do everything (panel display changes, relays clicking), press and hold the two buttons

2) Turn unit off, turn on, immediately press and hold the two buttons

3) Turn unit off, press and hold the two buttons, turn on; this lit up the whole display like the Matrix, but the only difference in the result was that when I released the buttons it was on the CBL/SAT input.

I think I know what may have happened.

Last week I tried a solid state zero-crossing relay to control power to my inuke 6000 sub amp.

If it's plugged into a smart power switch, there's a hellacious turn-off thump, so I was doing it manually.

The relay didn't help, and the system experienced two or three of these thumps.

The system has survived many such thumps before I went to the manual procedure, but I think the volume was higher this time, or this was just the straw that broke the camel's back.

I have everything plugged into a SurgeX surge protector, but it never occurred to wonder if connected devices are protected from each other as well as from external surges.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check w/my cc company.

As an aside, the beeping is a low backup battery warning from my ATT Uverse Optical Network Terminal.

Noah

Last edited by noah katz; 11-14-2019 at 11:41 AM.
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post #12306 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Yes, I looked at post 7.

I tried the reset procedure, which seems slightly vague in regard to the timing of the button presses, so I tried the following:

1) Turn unit off, turn on, wait for it to do everything (panel display changes, relays clicking), press and hold the two buttons

2) Turn unit off, turn on, immediately press and hold the two buttons

3) Turn unit off, press and hold the two buttons, turn on; this lit up the whole display like the Matrix, but the only difference in the result was that when I released the buttons it was on the CBL/SAT input.
Item 3 is the correct reset procedure.
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post #12307 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 12:45 PM
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Using 3) with Game/A-DSX instantly got me Initialized, but still no response when pressing Setup.

I tried it with Movie/Music, got the wowy blinking display, and I held the buttons down for close to a minute.

When I gave up and let go, the display offered me the option to update f/w, which is almost done....

Nope, no cigar.

If it's the HDMI board (but would that make Setup, Info, etc not work?), I could set the inputs to component video and analog to get by until I get a 16ch processor, but I can't get into the menus.

Noah
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post #12308 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Using 3) with Game/A-DSX instantly got me Initialized, but still no response when pressing Setup.

I tried it with Movie/Music, got the wowy blinking display, and I held the buttons down for close to a minute.

When I gave up and let go, the display offered me the option to update f/w, which is almost done....

Nope, no cigar.

If it's the HDMI board (but would that make Setup, Info, etc not work?), I could set the inputs to component video and analog to get by until I get a 16ch processor, but I can't get into the menus.
Try doing a few microprocessor resets in a row as sometimes that will resolve an issue that a single reset does not. If still no joy, repair or replace.
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post #12309 of 12346 Old 11-14-2019, 01:04 PM
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I'll try that, thanks, jd

Noah
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post #12310 of 12346 Old 11-15-2019, 12:19 PM
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Didn't work.

Anyone know what an HDMI board repair costs?

Oh, and would it be expected to not be able to get into the menus if the HDMI board is bad?

If not, the repair cost might exceed the unit's value; completed sales on ebay are $600 - $700.

Noah
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post #12311 of 12346 Old 11-15-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Didn't work.

Anyone know what an HDMI board repair costs?

Oh, and would it be expected to not be able to get into the menus if the HDMI board is bad?

If not, the repair cost might exceed the unit's value; completed sales on ebay are $600 - $700.
Roughly $500.
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post #12312 of 12346 Old 11-18-2019, 07:07 AM
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post #12313 of 12346 Old 11-18-2019, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
@jdsmoothie or anyone with knowledge:

Shouldn’t I be getting rear surround input from DD+?
It depends on the source. You would have to check the source. DD+ is just a container.

It can contain.
2.0 stereo.
5.1
7.1
Atmos.
etc
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post #12314 of 12346 Old 11-18-2019, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
It depends on the source. You would have to check the source. DD+ is just a container.



It can contain.

2.0 stereo.

5.1

7.1

Atmos.

etc


Yea? Ok that makes perfect sense thanks. I’m just used to seeing DD being 5.1 and DD+ containing more channels.
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post #12315 of 12346 Old 11-18-2019, 07:32 AM
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Heres a silly question. when watching an Atmos movie through my SR7010, the ‘signal’ is actually impacted by the listening mode I choose. For instance, if I select TrueHD it only shows 7.1 on the input side. If I toggle to Atmos/Surround mode it indicates ‘Atmos’ for signal input with all channels highlighted on input side.

Is this correct?


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post #12316 of 12346 Old 11-18-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Heres a silly question. when watching an Atmos movie through my SR7010, the ‘signal’ is actually impacted by the listening mode I choose. For instance, if I select TrueHD it only shows 7.1 on the input side. If I toggle to Atmos/Surround mode it indicates ‘Atmos’ for signal input with all channels highlighted on input side.

Is this correct?


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Yup.
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post #12317 of 12346 Old 11-22-2019, 02:34 PM
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NR1506 no Dolby Vision?

Hello! I cannot get Dolby Vision to work through my Marantz NR1506, maybe you can help.
Setup:
- NVidia Shiled pro 2019 (Dolby vision ready)
- Marantz NR1506 - updated to latest firmware (Dolby vision ready)
- Philips 55OLED754 (Dolby vision compatible)

2 HDMI cables (Amazon Basics and Generic): tested both to connect Nvidia shiled directly to TV and Dolby Vision works fine.

I tried:
- Swapping these two cables
- Update and reset Marantz via USB firmware
- Fiddle with the (few) HDMI settings on the Marantz
- Plugged the Nvidia Shiled to all ports at the back of the Marantz
- Pugged the Marantz to other HDMI ports in the TV

The only thing I have still to do is use entirely different cables, I’ll get them tomorrow via Amazon prime.

I can’t get Dolby vision to work. When the Nvidia shield is plugged to the TV via the NR1506 it shows as only compatible output 4K+HDR ready.
If I plug it straight in the TV it gives as compatible output 4K+HDR ready+Dolby Vision.

Can someone please help?

Thank you!
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post #12318 of 12346 Old 11-23-2019, 11:08 AM
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Marantz NR1506 No Dolby Vision

Hello! I cannot get Dolby Vision to work through my Marantz NR1506, maybe you can help.
Setup:
- NVidia Shiled pro 2019 (Dolby vision works)
- Marantz NR1506 - updated to latest firmware (Dolby vision through latest firmware)
- Philips 55OLED754 (Dolby vision works)

4 HDMI cables (Amazon Basics, PS4 Pro supplied, 2x Firebly 2m): I tested all of them connecting Nvidia Shield directly to TV and Dolby Vision works fine.

I tried:
- Swapping all cables
- Update and reset Marantz via USB firmware
- Fiddle with the (few) HDMI settings on the Marantz
- Plugged the Nvidia Shiled to all ports at the back of the Marantz
- Pugged the Marantz to other HDMI ports in the TV

I can’t get Dolby vision to work.

If I plug the Shield straight in the TV Under settings->display and sound->resolution it gives the option of ‘4K 60hz HDR10 ready + Dolby Vision’. In Netflix all videos are available as ‘Dolby Vision’ and indeed when I play one the TV shows the Dolby Vision indicator.

When the Nvidia shield is plugged to the TV via the NR1506 it shows default output ‘4K 60hz HDR10 ready’. In the menu with a list of compatible formats it does not list anything with Dolby Vision. If I open Netflix all videos are available as UHD only.

I have the impression that the problem is that the Marantz is convinced that the TV does not support Dolby Vision. In the Marantz Menu under information / HDMI monitor it lists all available resolutions and it gives 480, 576, 1080 etc up to 4K/60 but does not say anything about HDR or Dolby. When the Shield is connected to the Marantz on the input information the Marantz shows B2020 colorspace but only YCbC 4:2:2 (should be 4:4:4 for Dolby Vision right)? Still this is normal since the shield when connected to the Marantz outputs only HDR10 and not Dolby Vision.

Can someone please help? I have no clue what else I can do.

Thank you!
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post #12319 of 12346 Old 11-23-2019, 07:21 PM
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based on your posts, you only have one thing that "should" be able to send DV and that's the Shield. you haven't mentioned anything else you have that should be able to send DV, like a UHD DV player, an xbox one x, roku ultra, etc.

so, do you have anything else that when plugged into the tv direct gives you DV and does NOT give DV when plugged into your 1506?

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post #12320 of 12346 Old 11-24-2019, 01:46 PM
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Need some help with access to streaming services like Disney+. Is there a way to connect a "stick" of some brand to my 5010 and have it work?

If so, My next question is, what are the opinions on the current lot that are available?


Thanks!
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post #12321 of 12346 Old 11-24-2019, 01:59 PM
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some must be connected directly to the tv then have the audio streamed to the receiver via ARC HDMI. others can be connected directly to the receiver. see which ones meet your needs. check the Disney + site and proper threads in this forum.

you should look to a different forum for questions about "streaming" devices and Disney +, this is not the forum for those questions.

best of luck.

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post #12322 of 12346 Old 11-24-2019, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarrdadd View Post
some must be connected directly to the tv then have the audio streamed to the receiver via ARC HDMI. others can be connected directly to the receiver. see which ones meet your needs. check the Disney + site and proper threads in this forum.

you should look to a different forum for questions about "streaming" devices and Disney +, this is not the forum for those questions.

best of luck.
Thank you and your correct, wrong forum. I spaced on the streaming thread. Mods please feel free to delete or relocate my post.
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post #12323 of 12346 Old 11-24-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike V View Post
Thank you and your correct, wrong forum. I spaced on the streaming thread. Mods please feel free to delete or relocate my post.
this google search should get you where you need to be as well as searching the streaming threads here.

again, best of luck.

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post #12324 of 12346 Old 11-25-2019, 08:08 AM
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Can I use the pre-outs at any time ? are they always 'hot' ?

The reason why ask , is the following:

I have a vintage HiFi system from Pioneer (see profile) , of which I like to use the Amp & Equalizer

Also , I have a Marantz SR6010 AVR , which I use in a 5.1.4 Atmos setup. Currently I am using the Pioneer amp as a power amp (AUX-In) (Marantz Front - pre out)

My PC is connected via HDMI and Optical toslink to the AVR. When playing music via toslink from the PC , the sound is great (Marantz on CD mode , via front pre-out to the Pioneer amp/Equalizer)

But when I use Atmos (UHD player , Netflix, or PC mediaplayer) , I have no sound on the left front stereo speaker and soft sound on the right.

I want to solve this, but I don't want to lose my ability to have digital playback on my Pioneer , via the AVR (otherwise I would have to buy a seperate DAC)

I have a Beresford Audio switcher TC 7220. for switching between 2 different Amp's & 2 sets of Stereo speakers and I think I can use that to resolve my issue

Yesterday when I was googling abou the pre-outs and the speaker config of the 6010 AVR, I saw a 2015 post of JDsmoothie, where he stated that the Pre-Outs are always 'hot'

Does that mean that I could use both the pre-outs AND Front L+R speaker outputs ? Without having to do Amp-assign in the AVR's menu ?


Many thanks in advance for helping with this headache :-)

My stuff: SR6010 (pre-out 2x Front Stereo by vintage Pioneer SA-9500) in 5.1.4
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post #12325 of 12346 Old 11-25-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven Gunderson View Post
The reason why ask , is the following:

I have a vintage HiFi system from Pioneer (see profile) , of which I like to use the Amp & Equalizer

Also , I have a Marantz SR6010 AVR , which I use in a 5.1.4 Atmos setup. Currently I am using the Pioneer amp as a power amp (AUX-In) (Marantz Front - pre out)

My PC is connected via HDMI and Optical toslink to the AVR. When playing music via toslink from the PC , the sound is great (Marantz on CD mode , via front pre-out to the Pioneer amp/Equalizer)

But when I use Atmos (UHD player , Netflix, or PC mediaplayer) , I have no sound on the left front stereo speaker and soft sound on the right.

I want to solve this, but I don't want to lose my ability to have digital playback on my Pioneer , via the AVR (otherwise I would have to buy a seperate DAC)

I have a Beresford Audio switcher TC 7220. for switching between 2 different Amp's & 2 sets of Stereo speakers and I think I can use that to resolve my issue

Yesterday when I was googling abou the pre-outs and the speaker config of the 6010 AVR, I saw a 2015 post of JDsmoothie, where he stated that the Pre-Outs are always 'hot'

Does that mean that I could use both the pre-outs AND Front L+R speaker outputs ? Without having to do Amp-assign in the AVR's menu ?


Many thanks in advance for helping with this headache :-)
Correct. The main zone pre-outs are normally always "hot" so you should be able to use the Front L/R speaker posts and Front L/R pre-outs; however, NOT connected to the same set of speakers. Not sure whether using the AMP ASSIGN "Pre-Out = Front" setting (to expand the AVR from 7CH --> 9CH) cuts off the Front L/R speaker posts or not, but if yes, you'll have to also externally power another set of speakers to use for the expansion (p. 221 Owner's manual) which will then allow the Front L/R speaker posts and pre-outs to both be used.
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post #12326 of 12346 Old 11-26-2019, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Correct. The main zone pre-outs are normally always "hot" so you should be able to use the Front L/R speaker posts and Front L/R pre-outs; however, NOT connected to the same set of speakers. Not sure whether using the AMP ASSIGN "Pre-Out = Front" setting (to expand the AVR from 7CH --> 9CH) cuts off the Front L/R speaker posts or not, but if yes, you'll have to also externally power another set of speakers to use for the expansion (p. 221 Owner's manual) which will then allow the Front L/R speaker posts and pre-outs to both be used.
Thanks!

The pre-outs will connect to the AUX-IN of the vintage amp, so the AVR will function as a DAC (when playing music from the PC)

One more question, if you don't mind

Do you advise using a Power Amp ? Some say that an AVR like the SR6010 has enough power (it is rarely that all speakers are used at the same time) , other say it gives more headroom and thus this improves the sound quality

My stuff: SR6010 (pre-out 2x Front Stereo by vintage Pioneer SA-9500) in 5.1.4
Teufel MK2 5.0 set , 4x Klipsch 140SA, Klipsch R12SW sub, Klipsch center: RP450C, 2x Klipsch RP600M surrounds, Rega RP1, 3x NAS, Philips 65OLED803, LG OLED 920V 55' ,Sony 4K X85C,2x Xbox One, PS4
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post #12327 of 12346 Old 11-26-2019, 02:31 AM
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Thanks!

The pre-outs will connect to the AUX-IN of the vintage amp, so the AVR will function as a DAC (when playing music from the PC)

One more question, if you don't mind

Do you advise using a Power Amp ? Some say that an AVR like the SR6010 has enough power (it is rarely that all speakers are used at the same time) , other say it gives more headroom and thus this improves the sound quality
If you don't hear distortion at your preferred listening volume level, then you don't need an external amp.
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I think my 7010 just died . Won’t power on at all, never had an issue before. Don’t have time right now, but is there anything I can do other than unplugging and hoping for the best?
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post #12329 of 12346 Old 12-03-2019, 12:01 PM
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I think my 7010 just died . Won’t power on at all, never had an issue before. Don’t have time right now, but is there anything I can do other than unplugging and hoping for the best?
If it won't power on at all without any cables/wires connected, then simply could be a loose internal connection which could easily be fixed by a repair shop. Or perhaps if connected to a power strip, then remove the power strip and connect directly to the wall outlet as a test.

If it powers on momentarily and then powers off with a flashing red power light, the following applies:

Fast blinking power light (2x/sec) - (1) loose speaker wire from one post touching another post, (2) playing 4-ohm speakers to loud, or (3) amp failure.
Slow blinking power light (1x/2 sec) - poor ventilation

If none of the above apply, but it does power on, then refer to post 6 and do a microprocessor reset.
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
If it won't power on at all without any cables/wires connected, then simply could be a loose internal connection which could easily be fixed by a repair shop. Or perhaps if connected to a power strip, then remove the power strip and connect directly to the wall outlet as a test.

If it powers on momentarily and then powers off with a flashing red power light, the following applies:

Fast blinking power light (2x/sec) - (1) loose speaker wire from one post touching another post, (2) playing 4-ohm speakers to loud, or (3) amp failure.
Slow blinking power light (1x/2 sec) - poor ventilation

If none of the above apply, but it does power on, then refer to post 6 and do a microprocessor reset.
Thanks for your time. I was finally home and had time to investigate today and fortunately it was the easiest of issues... power cable had disconnected at the back of the unit somehow. Should have looked before posting, but I was just turning it on to check the game before heading out the door and thought I heard a click and then no power. Anyway huge relief with only 1 week of warranty left and the potential cost of an equivalent replacement after just buying a new OLED (although getting earc would have been nice).

Also wanted to say your Denon/Marantz threads are hugely appreciated. They are a cut above official threads for other products on this forum and others.
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