*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 01:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thuey View Post
First time with this home theater stuff...
Welcome to AVS!


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Originally Posted by thuey View Post
Just purchased...


Receiver: Marantz NR1506
Speakers: ELAC Debut B6

....Questions:


1. Did I make a huge mistake with pairing the 50w/ch Marantz @ 8 ohms with these speakers? I was kinda seduced by the whole Andrew Jones hype, so I just jumped straight in.


Right now I have a very small room (10' x 12'), with listening distance maybe 4-5' max.
To determine the power requirements of your ELAC Debut B6, use the following web app: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html based on a few inputs on your setup.

You might want to place a volume limit of at least 0dB (maybe even -10dB since you have no sub) so not to clip the output of the amps. 0dB is reference level which is 105dB peak at the Main Listening Position (MLP) and will be higher with no sub. Most consider this to be very loud.

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Originally Posted by thuey View Post
...2. If a 2.0 setup is fine with these speakers, what if in a future upgrade path, I added the center (Nominal impedance: 6 Ω, Sensitivity:87 dB at 2.83 v/1m) and a sub for 3.1?
A sub would help take the load off the receiver. The NR-1506 has front left and front right pre-outs so it would be possible to connect to a better external amp and just use the internal amp of the NR-1506 to drive the center speaker.


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Originally Posted by thuey View Post
...3. And if someday I do a 5.1 upgrade, if I move to a bigger room... is it feasible with this combination?...
The NR-1506 is a slim line receiver meant for small rooms, such as bedroom. It is possible to use in a bigger room, provided the speakers are very efficient (96dB/W/m or more), don't sit too far away and with multiple subs.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.
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post #1652 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tsaiduk View Post
kk. thanks for the input. ill look into emotiva.

and for my other question, would it be possible just to connect a nr1506/1606 instead of a 2 channel amp or emotiva. would it work the same?

No neither one of those have Speaker pre-inputs. But why would you want to spend $500, instead of $150?
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post #1653 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tsaiduk View Post
i'm not sure what to do yet, just poking around and learning. i was planning on getting a nr1606, but have been told the only way to go 7.x.4 in the future, would be the sr7010, so now my plans are delayed. this might be a dumb question, but would it be possible just buy another receiver, such as a nr1506 or nr1606 instead of a two channel receiver?

how would you rate this one, if it is one?
Correct.

NR1606/SR5010 - max capable is 5.2.2
SR6010 - 5.2.2 out of the box, but can be expanded to 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 with an external 2CH amp
SR7010 - 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of the box, but can be expanded to 7.2.4 with an external 2CH amp

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Originally Posted by tsaiduk View Post
if one were getting an amp (marantz sr7010) that requires a 2 channel amp for more channels? is there anything to look for specifically?
Most owners will likely be budget conscious and as such purchase a 2CH amp to power the second set of "height" speakers in which case a 50W amp will work just fine. A couple of good choices here would be:

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AM.../dp/B00026BQJ6 (normally about $110 but the current vendor has it overpriced at $159)

https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/mini-x-100 ($149, current sale price)


Others may want to provide more power to the FL/FR or FL/C/FR speakers in which case an Emotiva XPA-2 or XPA-3 would be a good choice (at a much higher price point).


Quote:
Originally Posted by tsaiduk View Post
kk. thanks for the input. ill look into emotiva.

and for my other question, would it be possible just to connect a nr1506/1606 instead of a 2 channel amp or emotiva. would it work the same?

Yes indeed. You can connect another AVR to provide the 2CH amp expansion as well.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 11-07-2015 at 02:43 AM.
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post #1654 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ccssid123 View Post
"Think you have a defective AVR? Owner's manual - Factory reset 4-5 times in a row."

JD

I found myself doing a multiple reset and mini issues seemed to have resolved themselves (at least for the time being and hopefully forever...still getting used to unit ..7702 mkII). But, why so many re-sets in a row ?

Cannot provide a technical reason, however, history has shown that multiple resets have resolved an issue where a single reset did not. In fact, one owner (forget if Denon or Marantz) had to go as far as 10 resets to resolve his particular issue.
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post #1655 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 02:49 AM
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In a 5.1 setup, the surrounds are connected to the "Surround" speaker posts irregardless of where you physically place the speakers, although should ideally be placed to the sides are slightly behind (ie. 90 - 110 degrees). The "Surround Back" speaker posts are only used with a 7.1 setup.

Thanks for the reply! I set it up like this and run its auto set-up and it works OK...

Now for one more probably very silly question: I have also a pair of Sennheiser's wireless headphones that I use when kids are in bed and I plug-in the Sennheiser's wireless station into the AVR; I can plug it in the front panel where the headphone plug is, but is there an option at the backside where I could also plug it in for Audio-out? The wireless station can take also component (white/red) cable. But I cannot see a suitable audio-out possibility in the back. Could you advise me a suitable solution?

...I'd prefer to have it just always plugged-in the back and then choose an option where the sound is going "out" via the remote, rather than having to open the front panel each time and plug in the headphones separately... But I'm not sure this is possible.

Many thanks!
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post #1656 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by spamjunkee View Post
Thanks for the reply! I set it up like this and run its auto set-up and it works OK...

Now for one more probably very silly question: I have also a pair of Sennheiser's wireless headphones that I use when kids are in bed and I plug-in the Sennheiser's wireless station into the AVR; I can plug it in the front panel where the headphone plug is, but is there an option at the backside where I could also plug it in for Audio-out? The wireless station can take also component (white/red) cable. But I cannot see a suitable audio-out possibility in the back. Could you advise me a suitable solution?

...I'd prefer to have it just always plugged-in the back and then choose an option where the sound is going "out" via the remote, rather than having to open the front panel each time and plug in the headphones separately... But I'm not sure this is possible.

Many thanks!
First, the red/white (audio) cables are referred to as "composite" cables, while the red/blue/green (video) are referred to as "component" cables.

Yes, you can plug your Sennheiser wireless transmitter "composite" red/white cables into the Zone 2 (or Zone 3 if Zone 2 is in use) pre-outs and pass audio to the headphones with independent volume control. Zone 2 can pass HDMI audio (same as is playing in the main zone or a totally different HDMI audio source) if you have the "HDMI Audio (Zone 2 only)" (p. 283 Owner's manual) setting set to "PCM" as well as other digital, analog, networking, and USB audio while the Zone 3 pre-outs would pass the same except no HDMI audio (unless the ALL ZONE STEREO mode is selected in which case the main zone would be down mixed to 2CH stereo but doing so would allow HDMI audio to pass to Zone 3 as well).

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 11-07-2015 at 03:08 AM.
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post #1657 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 03:59 AM
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Does anyone have a sense of when this product line will start to drop significantly in price?
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post #1658 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Galootin View Post
Does anyone have a sense of when this product line will start to drop significantly in price?
Generally when the next year's models are released which will begin June 2016 for the NR1506/NR1606/SR5010 and Sep 2016 for the SR6010/SR7010. Otherwise, until then give us (AVS) a call for pricing.
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post #1659 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Correct.


Yes indeed. You can connect another AVR to provide the 2CH amp expansion as well.

Sorry to hijack, and forgive my ignorance, but how would that work without Pre-ins? Could you use the Height 2 pre-outs and go into say a CD input on any receiver?
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post #1660 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MarlinFan View Post
I've a 1506 and my Wharfedale Diamond 10.2 fronts appear to be very similar specswise to what you have, so I think for what you're doing and what may add down the line - you'll do just fine. Don't forget to run Audyssey.

Down the line, if you needed to get louder (and this is subjective, depending on how loud you need to get) maybe an amp would be an answer for you.
Oh totally similar specs! Thanks for the response! (And @ petetherock , steveting99 for your thoughts!)

I didn't really even know what a powered amp was until I researched it this morning, so now I realize that the pre-pro/pre-amp features of a receiver are cheaper than the amplifier feature, given that standalone amps are megabucks. I guess if I ever need to power more, at least I have an option.

Unrelated questions about how amplifiers work:

So the NR1506 is rated at 50W/ch (8ohms with 0.8% THD), 60W/ch (6 ohms with 0.7% THD).

1. So since I purchased 6 ohm speakers, that means I'm sending 60W of power to them?
2. I've read that it takes MORE effort for amps to drive lower ohms (4 & 6), compared to the standard 8 ohms resistance. I don't quite understand what's going on, since the amplifier can produce more wattage with lower resistance. Am I missing something?
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post #1661 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thuey View Post
So the NR1506 is rated at 50W/ch (8ohms with 0.8% THD), 60W/ch (6 ohms with 0.7% THD).

1. So since I purchased 6 ohm speakers, that means I'm sending 60W of power to them?
The NR1506 is rated at:

50 W + 50 W (8 Ω/ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz with 0.08 % T.H.D.)
60 W + 60 W (6 Ω/ohms, 1 kHz with 0.7 % T.H.D.)

The first rating is the US FTC rating, and is a useful #. The second rating is the JEITA rating, and is inflated compared to the FTC rating because it is measuring a single midrange frequency to the point of heavy distortion; a real audio signal would likely be distorting earlier.

In practice, the power supply to the NR1506 is rated for 180W max, which means driving all five channels with 20Hz-20kHz pink noise would probably peak at ~30W per channel. Don't worry about the amp power rating too much; worry about having good speakers and placing them well.

Quote:
2. I've read that it takes MORE effort for amps to drive lower ohms (4 & 6), compared to the standard 8 ohms resistance. I don't quite understand what's going on, since the amplifier can produce more wattage with lower resistance. Am I missing something?
The maximum wattage the amp can deliver is fixed by the capacity of the power supply and thermal/current overload protection.

A perfect amp driving an ideal speaker delivers twice the current to a 4 ohm speaker as it does to an 8 ohm speaker. That extra current means the 4ohm speaker will also get (and demand from the amp) twice the wattage. So driving 4 ohm speakers makes the amp work twice as hard and emit twice as much heat.

For easy numbers, lets take your 50W at 8ohms, that would be 100W to 4ohms. If you wanted to drive five 4ohm channels, the power supply would need to be rated for about 550W continuous rating rather than 180W. Real speakers aren't ideal, and neither are real amps; a real amp might be able to supply 80W into 4ohms, and real speakers aren't ideal resistors but have complex, frequency- and time-dependent impedance curves.

Learn more about the electronic engineering part of audio if you like, and you will become a better consumer of audio products. However, try not to chase after spec #s when the goal should be to have a system which plays music with high fidelity (or with user-preferred distortions like EQ, upmixing, DSP modes, etc) and loudly enough to be satisfying.

For medium-sized rooms and reasonably efficient speakers, around 1 Watt per channel is fairly loud. It all depends.

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post #1662 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cripsy66 View Post
Sorry to hijack, and forgive my ignorance, but how would that work without Pre-ins? Could you use the Height 2 pre-outs and go into say a CD input on any receiver?
Yup. You could use any 2-channel line-level input it might have: CD, AUX, TAPE, etc-- just not a PHONO input, since those are different.

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post #1663 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Correct.

NR1606/SR5010 - max capable is 5.2.2
SR6010 - 5.2.2 out of the box, but can be expanded to 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 with an external 2CH amp
SR7010 - 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of the box, but can be expanded to 7.2.4 with an external 2CH amp



Most owners will likely be budget conscious and as such purchase a 2CH amp to power the second set of "height" speakers in which case a 50W amp will work just fine. A couple of good choices here would be:

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AM.../dp/B00026BQJ6 (normally about $110 but the current vendor has it overpriced at $159)

https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/mini-x-100 ($149, current sale price)


Others may want to provide more power to the FL/FR or FL/C/FR speakers in which case an Emotiva XPA-2 or XPA-3 would be a good choice (at a much higher price point).





Yes indeed. You can connect another AVR to provide the 2CH amp expansion as well.
so if i went the nr1606 route first, id be capped out at 5.2.2, then later buy the sr7010 and make it to 7.2.4? is this possible?
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post #1664 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cripsy66 View Post
Sorry to hijack, and forgive my ignorance, but how would that work without Pre-ins? Could you use the Height 2 pre-outs and go into say a CD input on any receiver?
Yes, CD input along with setting the AVR to DIRECT mode and raising its master volume to about 80% of maximum.
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post #1665 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsaiduk View Post
so if i went the nr1606 route first, id be capped out at 5.2.2, then later buy the sr7010 and make it to 7.2.4? is this possible?
Using the NR1606 to expand the SR7010 from 9CH --> 11CH, yes it is possible.
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post #1666 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 10:08 PM
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Looking at going with the av7702mkii. Has the hiss issue been resolved? Any other issues going on?

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post #1667 of 12185 Old 11-07-2015, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
Looking at going with the av7702mkii. Has the hiss issue been resolved? Any other issues going on?
No hiss with mine. Knock on plastic...
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Listen up, studios! Dolby Atmos Lite™ print-outs must stop!!
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post #1668 of 12185 Old 11-08-2015, 07:23 AM
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I'd really like to listen to both the 7702 and the 8802 but my magnolia has neither of them on display and I can't really find anything where anyone says how much better or close sounding both of these pres are.
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post #1669 of 12185 Old 11-08-2015, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
Looking at going with the av7702mkii. Has the hiss issue been resolved? Any other issues going on?
No hiss here as well. Never had a hiss either. Minor other issues (lost center channel midway through blu-ray movie, couple of hdmi handshake issues)...but a multiple factory reset (5 times in a row) took care of them. Hiss would seem to be more of a grounding/wiring issue.
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post #1670 of 12185 Old 11-08-2015, 04:20 PM
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Will 6010 and Marantz Android app meet my requirements listed below?

A little help here, I've read reviews/manuals etc for Pioneer, Anthem, Marantz, Sony and Denon (until I can't keep anything straight!)

My Requirements:
5.1 zone 1 - Main room
2 ch zone 2 - backyard. (Definitive Tech AW-6500's)

Controlling the following from my smartphone:
a) Zone 2 speakers (mostly Pandora and DLNA music) - use for backyard speakers
b) HDMI 2 (assuming this will carry video and audio) - use for basement TV.

Bluetooth:
a) stream from phone
b) pair to Bluetooth headphones

Phono inputs.

I'm contemplating the Marantz 6010 since it has the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 and I've been super happy with the sound from my Marantz SR 8000 forever.

I love the sound from the SR-8000, but no HDMI support and lack of audio delay capability is killing me.

Thanks in advance for your experience with the above.
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post #1671 of 12185 Old 11-08-2015, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
Looking at going with the av7702mkii. Has the hiss issue been resolved? Any other issues going on?.
Hi ironsurvivor,

Apart from myself (using the SR-7009) and Roudan (using the 7702mkII) - no one else has experienced the hum/ground loop issue. It is room specific, related to the internal external wiring and devices connected to the circuits. Most do not have this issue as replied by current 7702mkII owners

If one does come across the dreaded hum, the easiest and most cost effective solution is using the XLR outputs. This is what Roudan did in post number 1,279 and the problem went away.

There are other workarounds available such as a unity gain isolation transformer and the miniDSP 2x4.

Marantz SR-7009, Oppo BPD-93, MTV 7000D, aTV, Harmony Home Control remote, KEF E301+T101, MiniDSP (2x4)+(10x10HD)+(DDRC-88A), Emotiva 2xXPA-5 (Gen2), Rythmik 2xF12G+2xF8, HiMedia Q16, LG 55EC9300.

Last edited by steveting99; 11-08-2015 at 05:24 PM. Reason: incorrect post reference
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post #1672 of 12185 Old 11-08-2015, 07:14 PM
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*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's ...

I have a question about the Dolby up mixer. I have a 6.1 system with front heights on the front wall with the LCR. With my old integra I used the dsx to get all 8 speakers to play. When I play a non atmos Dolby 7.1 sound track it shows 7.1 comming in but only out puts 5.1 plus my front heights. No center back. Is there a setting that would make my rear back speaker work besides using dsx again? When I play atmos tracks all 8 get played. I have a 7010.


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post #1673 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 03:12 AM
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Adding more internet radio stations

There are thousands of internet radio stations broadcasting around the world. Initially your networking AVR has access to only a limited number of these stations. However, by using vTuner @ RadioMarantz.com via your PC, you can create a vTuner account, and add many more stations of your choosing.

In order to create a new vTuner account, you must first play a few of the available Internet Radio stations so the vTuner servers can recognize the AVR's MAC address. Once having done so, you should then be able to use your PC and go to <radiomarantz.com> and enter your AVR's MAC address (using the AVR's remote ---> SETUP - NETWORK - INFORMATION - MAC ADDRESS). After the account is created, you should then be able to add more Internet Radio stations to your AVR's list of available stations.
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post #1674 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bezlar View Post
I have a question about the Dolby up mixer. I have a 6.1 system with front heights on the front wall with the LCR. With my old integra I used the dsx to get all 8 speakers to play. When I play a non atmos Dolby 7.1 sound track it shows 7.1 comming in but only out puts 5.1 plus my front heights. No center back. Is there a setting that would make my rear back speaker work besides using dsx again? When I play atmos tracks all 8 get played. I have a 7010.


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Audyssey DSX cannot simulate audio to the Surround Back speakers, rather on your old Integra Dolby Digitall PLIIx was used to simulate audio to the Surround Back speaker and then DSX was used to simulate audio to the Front Height speakers. The new Dolby Surround upmixer has replaced DD PLIIx, however, it cannot simulate audio to a single Surround Back speaker, rather only to 2 Surround Back speakers.
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post #1675 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by AJPeacock View Post
A little help here, I've read reviews/manuals etc for Pioneer, Anthem, Marantz, Sony and Denon (until I can't keep anything straight!)

My Requirements:
5.1 zone 1 - Main room
2 ch zone 2 - backyard. (Definitive Tech AW-6500's)

Controlling the following from my smartphone:
a) Zone 2 speakers (mostly Pandora and DLNA music) - use for backyard speakers
b) HDMI 2 (assuming this will carry video and audio) - use for basement TV.

Bluetooth:
a) stream from phone
b) pair to Bluetooth headphones

Phono inputs.

I'm contemplating the Marantz 6010 since it has the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 and I've been super happy with the sound from my Marantz SR 8000 forever.

I love the sound from the SR-8000, but no HDMI support and lack of audio delay capability is killing me.

Thanks in advance for your experience with the above.
AJ

The SR6010 can satisfy all of your requirements except streaming audio "to" a set of Bluetooth headphones (which no Denon or Marantz unit can do), rather to do so you would need to purchase a 3rd party Bluetooth transmitter.
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post #1676 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ironsurvivor View Post
I'd really like to listen to both the 7702 and the 8802 but my magnolia has neither of them on display and I can't really find anything where anyone says how much better or close sounding both of these pres are.
There have been a few posts on this comparison with the AV8802 providing a noticeable improvement in audio clarity, however, whether it is enough to support the difference in cost would be a personal choice. If your budget only supports an AV7702MKII purchase, then doing so will still provide an excellent pre/pro. PM or call for more information on pricing.
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post #1677 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Generally when the next year's models are released which will begin June 2016 for the NR1506/NR1606/SR5010 and Sep 2016 for the SR6010/SR7010. Otherwise, until then give us (AVS) a call for pricing.
Thanks for the info!

Would you say the firmware issues are sorted out now, or at least stable? I''m thinking mostly of the NR1606.
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post #1678 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Galootin View Post
Thanks for the info!

Would you say the firmware issues are sorted out now, or at least stable? I''m thinking mostly of the NR1606.
Hard to say, although on past year's models, firmware is generally released over the course of the whole first year.
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post #1679 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Audyssey DSX cannot simulate audio to the Surround Back speakers, rather on your old Integra Dolby Digitall PLIIx was used to simulate audio to the Surround Back speaker and then DSX was used to simulate audio to the Front Height speakers. The new Dolby Surround upmixer has replaced DD PLIIx, however, it cannot simulate audio to a single Surround Back speaker, rather only to 2 Surround Back speakers.

Well that sucks. Doesn't make any sense that it can do 2 but not one. That's what I get for being pro active when I built my theater. Dolby ex was the thing then. I'm prob making same mistake with atmos. There will certainly be a change about a year after I put more holes in my ceiling.

Thanks


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post #1680 of 12185 Old 11-09-2015, 05:52 AM
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Just got my MKll up and running, no hiss and knock on wood everything is great! Sounds great with Von Schweikert Audio 7.2 system. I have had the 8801, 7702, and now the MKll with no problems. Must be living right.

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