*Official* Marantz 2015 NR-1506/1606, SR-5010/6010/7010 & AV7702mkII owner's thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1801 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 08:47 AM
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Every time I switch my SR6010 from Cable/Sat to CD, after a few minutes, the 6010 shuts off. Is there a way to prevent this from happening?

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post #1802 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
How is the Zone 3 speakers wired up? Are they passive? I.e. you have a separate external 2-channel amp that takes the Zone 3 pre-outs from the receiver and powers the Zone 3 passive speakers.

Or are the Zone 3 speakers self powered, i.e. have built in amps? I.e. you've connected the Zone 3 pre-outs from the receiver and connect to the RCA left and right inputs to the active speakers.

In both instances, the miniDSP 2x4 unbalanced version would be the way to go. From the Zone 3 pre-outs, connect to the input of the 2x4. Within the 2x4 select the appropriate crossover frequency for each input. The output would be two signals. One to the speakers and the other to your sub.
Haha.... Neither. I am using the 7010 in a 5.1, 2channel zone 2, 2 channel zone 3 mode. Therefore, I am not using any of the pre-outs and have hooked up zone 3 in the "height 1 L and R speaker outs). So are you saying that I can use the zone 3 pre-out and attach the sub directly to it? So will the Marantz send zone3 speaker signal to the height 1 speaker out AND zone 3 pre-out at the same time? For that, do I need the mini DSP? And if so, do I connect the sub to the L or R or does it matter? This might seem like a newby question (and maybe it is) but I find that many times the Marantz doesn't work like I think it should and therefore your expertise is greatly appreciated.
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post #1803 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbfern View Post
The first review is up of the 7010 on avforums this morning if you care to take a look.

https://www.avforums.com/review/mara...r-review.12069
I believe I wrote my own impression a tad earlier

http://peteswrite.blogspot.com/2015/...eview.html?m=1
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post #1804 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by memmo View Post
Caught the upgrade bug (primary, I want Audyssey and DSD support would be nice).

My current setup consists of a Sherbourn PT-7030 processor and a massive Sherbourn 7/2100a amplifier. I'm not suspecting many will have experience with the later, but I'm debating upgrading just the processor (to a 7702 MK II) or whether I should swap both out in favour of a single receiver (SR7010). Anyone wager a guess to how the amplifiers in the SR7010 might stack up against the older Sherbourn design? My speakers all all efficient (98db for the LCR and 94 for the surrounds).

I have a Sherbourn 5/5210a, so it's very similar to yours. Are you planning on running Atmos or DTS:X? If yes, that could take 9 or 11 channels, so my plan is to keep the Sherbourn and get the SR7010 to power the ceiling speakers. While your 7/2100 might be overkill, it's also a great amp and will probably last forever.
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post #1805 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhallag View Post
Haha.... Neither. I am using the 7010 in a 5.1, 2channel zone 2, 2 channel zone 3 mode. Therefore, I am not using any of the pre-outs and have hooked up zone 3 in the "height 1 L and R speaker outs). So are you saying that I can use the zone 3 pre-out and attach the sub directly to it? So will the Marantz send zone3 speaker signal to the height 1 speaker out AND zone 3 pre-out at the same time? For that, do I need the mini DSP? And if so, do I connect the sub to the L or R or does it matter? This might seem like a newby question (and maybe it is) but I find that many times the Marantz doesn't work like I think it should and therefore your expertise is greatly appreciated.
If you wish to retain your existing wiring (i.e. power out to your Zone 3 speakers) and don't want to run another sub cable to where the Zone 3 speakers are, the only alternative left is to purchase a sub that has line level inputs/outputs with a variable high pass filter.

Basically you would connect the line inputs (Height 1 of the SR-7010) to the sub plate amp. From the sub plate amp, use the line out to your Zone 3 speakers. Adjust the crossover on the plate amp and hopefully it will blend in well with your Zone 3 speakers. A check on the Zone 3 speaker in room roll off is needed. Phase alignment is a tricky issue. Also adjust the plate amp volume to matched test tone with your Zone 3 speakers.

Depending on where you can place the sub to get the best bass response (a sub crawl is suggested), you might need to extend the line cabling.

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post #1806 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post
Every time I switch my SR6010 from Cable/Sat to CD, after a few minutes, the 6010 shuts off. Is there a way to prevent this from happening?
What speakers are you using? Do you know their sensitivity and impedance? Do you use a subwoofer? How many channels are in use for cable vs music? What volume? Do you run music at a higher volume (on the AVR, and you may also want to check with an SPL meter in case one source puts out higher volume at the same AVR volume, even a phone app SPL meter should give you a good approximation)? How much room to breathe does the receiver have?
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post #1807 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
How is the Zone 3 speakers wired up? Are they passive? I.e. you have a separate external 2-channel amp that takes the Zone 3 pre-outs from the receiver and powers the Zone 3 passive speakers.

Or are the Zone 3 speakers self powered, i.e. have built in amps? I.e. you've connected the Zone 3 pre-outs from the receiver and connect to the RCA left and right inputs to the active speakers.

In both instances, the miniDSP 2x4 unbalanced version would be the way to go. From the Zone 3 pre-outs, connect to the input of the 2x4. Within the 2x4 select the appropriate crossover frequency for each input. The output would be two signals. One to the speakers and the other to your sub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
If you wish to retain your existing wiring (i.e. power out to your Zone 3 speakers) and don't want to run another sub cable to where the Zone 3 speakers are, the only alternative left is to purchase a sub that has line level inputs/outputs with a variable high pass filter.

Basically you would connect the line inputs (Height 1 of the SR-7010) to the sub plate amp. From the sub plate amp, use the line out to your Zone 3 speakers. Adjust the crossover on the plate amp and hopefully it will blend in well with your Zone 3 speakers. A check on the Zone 3 speaker in room roll off is needed. Phase alignment is a tricky issue. Also adjust the plate amp volume to matched test tone with your Zone 3 speakers.

Depending on where you can place the sub to get the best bass response (a sub crawl is suggested), you might need to extend the line cabling.
All my equipment is in a home run and thus there is a coax line that I can use that is already there.
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post #1808 of 12185 Old 11-17-2015, 11:05 PM - Thread Starter
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^ There are two choices available to you to try implementing a sub for Zone 3 speakers - make and model number with specs?

Decide on one.

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post #1809 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 05:52 AM
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7010 video processing off, so it's set to pass all video. I get gui overlay on my blue ray but not on my directv? Any suggestions. I have always passed video in all my receivers. Would it be better or worse to let the marantz do it. If yes which resolution would be best. I have optima hd8600.


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post #1810 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bezlar View Post
7010 video processing off, so it's set to pass all video. I get gui overlay on my blue ray but not on my directv? Any suggestions. I have always passed video in all my receivers. Would it be better or worse to let the marantz do it. If yes which resolution would be best. I have optima hd8600.


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The Video Conversion setting must be enabled if you want the GUI overlay to display, however, the "i/p Scaler" setting can be OFF.
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post #1811 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The Video Conversion setting must be enabled if you want the GUI overlay to display, however, the "i/p Scaler" setting can be OFF.

So this should essentially be the same as pass through if the scaler is off? Any benefit to letting the 7010 scale the image?


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post #1812 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bezlar View Post
So this should essentially be the same as pass through if the scaler is off? Any benefit to letting the 7010 scale the image?


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Not if the TV can do just as good of a or better job of it.
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post #1813 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Not if the TV can do just as good of a or better job of it.

Thanks


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post #1814 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post
Every time I switch my SR6010 from Cable/Sat to CD, after a few minutes, the 6010 shuts off. Is there a way to prevent this from happening?
Are you turning off the projector and the HDMI control is signalling the 6010 to turn off?

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post #1815 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJPeacock View Post
Are you turning off the projector and the HDMI control is signalling the 6010 to turn off?

AJ
I think I figured it out. I need to set Power Off Control to either "Video" or "Off". Will check tonight.

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post #1816 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 08:53 AM
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Was a little bit confused on this whole HDR thing. I know there are different variants of HDR (Dolby Vision, Samsung etc ) will the receivers support all of them or are they just passing the metadata for the TV to handle ?

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post #1817 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Akuma24 View Post
Was a little bit confused on this whole HDR thing. I know there are different variants of HDR (Dolby Vision, Samsung etc ) will the receivers support all of them or are they just passing the metadata for the TV to handle ?
Most likely the latter.
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post #1818 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 11:20 AM
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5010 vs 6010

Is there any real advantage to the 6010- I'm planning on bi-amping the fronts with the assignable 6+7 amps, plus I have a external separate amp for the center- so power doesn't seem to be a big factor. I don't plan on Atmos or even a zone 2 at anytime in near future.

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks!
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post #1819 of 12185 Old 11-18-2015, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Amras View Post
Is there any real advantage to the 6010- I'm planning on bi-amping the fronts with the assignable 6+7 amps, plus I have a external separate amp for the center- so power doesn't seem to be a big factor. I don't plan on Atmos or even a zone 2 at anytime in near future.

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks!
Using an AVR's "bi-amp" feature won't provide any real additional power ... rather simply doubles up your use of speaker wire. The SR6010 uses the more advanced version of Audyssey MultEQ XT32 as does the SR7010.
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post #1820 of 12185 Old 11-19-2015, 09:38 PM
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I wonder which has a cleaner RCA pre-out? The Marantz SR6010 or Denon X4200?
My usage will be mainly movies with an AVR with a stack of Crown XLS2002 amp.
Is the advantage of 32bit DAC (in X4200) over a 24bit DAC (in SR6010) clearly audible in movies?

Last edited by Skylinestar; 11-19-2015 at 09:42 PM.
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post #1821 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
I wonder which has a cleaner RCA pre-out? The Marantz SR6010 or Denon X4200?
My usage will be mainly movies with an AVR with a stack of Crown XLS2002 amp.
Is the advantage of 32bit DAC (in X4200) over a 24bit DAC (in SR6010) clearly audible in movies?
I'm wondering the same thing. Both receivers are the same price on Accessories4Less. The only features I need are Atmos/DTS and XT32 for a 50/50 music/movies system. What would be the better buy?
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post #1822 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 06:30 AM
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Hi

I have been working on trigger out1 1/2 menu for a long time. I still don't understand how it works? Could you please help me? Thanks.

I connected two external power amplifiers to Marantz 7702 mk2 through both DC out. I don't want to trigger power on of amplifiers when powering on Marantz. I only want to trigger power on individual amplifier when powering on blu-ray player or media player. Is it possible to do it?

In menu of general->trigger out 1 or 2, I disable all options except Blu-ray and Media player. But it didn't do as I wanted. Everytime when I powered on Marantz, both amplifiers were automatically powered on before I selecting blu-ray or media player.

Confused. For example, when changing Main Zone to be off, on the screen display, it says disable this item from activating trigger out 1. What I understand is, when Marantz is powered on, Main zone is on, but this Main Zone On does't activate trigger out 1, so the amplifier connected to DC out1 cannot be powered on. Do I understand correctly?

2nd question, Do you guys use this trigger function? I heard it uses electricity when not using amplifier.

Thank you so much. I have been working on this menu for a long time. Please help. I appreciate it.

Last edited by Roudan; 11-20-2015 at 06:39 AM.
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post #1823 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 07:58 AM
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Any Advantage to a venerable Onkyo?

Hello,


I have been looking at a Marantz 5010 to potentially replace an Onkyo TX-SR605 in a 5.1 setup. I don't really plan on expanding beyond 5.1, and I see the Marantz provides a little bit more power than the Onkyo, and Audyssey XT as opposed to EQ2 on my current AVR. I use a PC as my main source for media playback and gaming.


Are there any other advantages I'm not seeing? I won't really make use of the Dolby Atmos functionality at this time. The main reason I'm looking to upgrade is the 2 HDMI ports on the Onkyo have become a bit limiting.


Thanks
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post #1824 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ajlueke View Post
Hello,


I have been looking at a Marantz 5010 to potentially replace an Onkyo TX-SR605 in a 5.1 setup. I don't really plan on expanding beyond 5.1, and I see the Marantz provides a little bit more power than the Onkyo, and Audyssey XT as opposed to EQ2 on my current AVR. I use a PC as my main source for media playback and gaming.


Are there any other advantages I'm not seeing? I won't really make use of the Dolby Atmos functionality at this time. The main reason I'm looking to upgrade is the 2 HDMI ports on the Onkyo have become a bit limiting.


Thanks
The SR5010 is a good choice as well as a nice improvement in audio quality to include subwoofer EQ which you don't get with Audyssey 2EQ.
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post #1825 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The SR5010 is a good choice as well as a nice improvement in audio quality to include subwoofer EQ which you don't get with Audyssey 2EQ.
Thanks for the quick reply!


I did balance all the levels on the Onkyo with an SPL meter, but I recently picked up a Hsu Research VTF2, and was curious about the added quality from Sub EQ. As others have stated, my local Best Buy has not run Audyssey on the in store receivers, but you feel it will make a difference?


Best buy is currently offering the unit for $799. I think I will pick it up and audition them side by side.
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post #1826 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ajlueke View Post
Thanks for the quick reply!


I did balance all the levels on the Onkyo with an SPL meter, but I recently picked up a Hsu Research VTF2, and was curious about the added quality from Sub EQ. As others have stated, my local Best Buy has not run Audyssey on the in store receivers, but you feel it will make a difference?


Best buy is currently offering the unit for $799. I think I will pick it up and audition them side by side.

Best Buy doesn't run the EQ of any AVR brand as it would be showing favoritism to that particular AVR as well as the speakers being used with it. An AVR will generally always sound much better after you have run Audyssey in your home, especially on the sub which is the one speaker that needs it the most. Best Buy offers instant gratification of your purchase, otherwise a call to us at AVS is always wise.
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post #1827 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
I wonder which has a cleaner RCA pre-out? The Marantz SR6010 or Denon X4200?
My usage will be mainly movies with an AVR with a stack of Crown XLS2002 amp.
Is the advantage of 32bit DAC (in X4200) over a 24bit DAC (in SR6010) clearly audible in movies?
This seems to be a popular comparison. If your priority is zone 3 or dual video (TV + projector), then the Denon 4200 is likely to be the better choice. The Denon also has a bit more amp power, but if you're using external amps then that wouldn't matter.

However, if audio playback is the highest priority, then the Marantz 6010 might well be the better choice. You've asked about the pre-outs and the Marantz has HDAMs rather than IC based op-amps and also has multichannel analog in, which is rare in the 2015 models (only the Denon 7200WA or the Denon pre-pros have it, I think).

Put simply, for the Marantz HDAMs, someone measures individual components with a meter and bins them, and then they populate the HDAM section with these discrete components which match up closely with each other rather than using an IC chip.

I don't know whether they hand-populate the HDAM section of the circuit boards or whether they bin components and wave solder them in batches. Anyway, here are pretty pictures of the difference between the two circuit boards from earlier in this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post37188586

You can chase the link to a more detailed review if you like. (Note, review was against 2013 models, but the preamp board holding the RCA connections hasn't changed much in 2015 AFAICT; although the HDMI boards got reworked, of course.)

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post #1828 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roudan View Post
2nd question, Do you guys use this trigger function? I heard it uses electricity when not using amplifier.

Thank you so much. I have been working on this menu for a long time. Please help. I appreciate it.
Hi--

Can't help with the trigger assign stuff, but I do have a mono cable plugged into the DC trigger of my AVR, and it worked fine to control a SVS sub.

However, the auto/standby mode of the SVS sub also works fine to turn it on or off, so I'm going to switch the trigger output over to running a 80mm fan once I get something to go from 3.5mm mono plug on the DC trigger cable to 3-pin molex.

Power usage should be trivial. The trigger shouldn't use any significant power when off, and it should use around 1.5W (per trigger output) when the trigger function is live. Turning the AVR on by itself will use 40-odd watts even with eco mode enabled.
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Primary (2.1): Thiel CS 1.2 / Velodyne F1000 sub / Adcom GFA-555 Mk2 / Rotel 970BX / Sony CDP-CA9 ES
Secondary (5.1): Paradigm Mini-Monitor v.3 / CC270 v.3 center / ADP-170 v.2 surrounds /
SVS SB1000 sub / Marantz SR-6010 / AppleTV + Win7 PC / BenQ BL3200PT
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post #1829 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cswiger View Post
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Originally Posted by Roudan View Post
2nd question, Do you guys use this trigger function? I heard it uses electricity when not using amplifier.

Thank you so much. I have been working on this menu for a long time. Please help. I appreciate it.
Hi--

Can't help with the trigger assign stuff, but I do have a mono cable plugged into the DC trigger of my AVR, and it worked fine to control a SVS sub.

However, the auto/standby mode of the SVS sub also works fine to turn it on or off, so I'm going to switch the trigger output over to running a 80mm fan once I get something to go from 3.5mm mono plug on the DC trigger cable to 3-pin molex.

Power usage should be trivial. The trigger shouldn't use any significant power when off, and it should use around 1.5W (per trigger output) when the trigger function is live. Turning the AVR on by itself will use 40-odd watts even with eco mode enabled.
Thanks cswiger.
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post #1830 of 12185 Old 11-20-2015, 09:13 PM
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Hi

Is it possible to change input source when powering on 7702 mk2?

It seems to me that the input source when powering on is always the last input source last time before powering off.

Could I fix the input source like media player always everytime powering on?

Thanks.
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