Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 161 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4801 of 8308 Old 02-19-2018, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by NuDLP View Post
Right now on my 4th run, I am getting some fantastic sound. More delicate and detailed than before. The sub crossover moved up to 180 in the system on the LFE channel, but runs at 80 for the mains... the 180 seems so high for me, but it's nailed a perfect blending with the satellites so I don't care too much about the numbers. The result seems good to my ears!
And at the end of the day, that is all that matters! ARC has always left the crossover at 80 for everything and LFE at 120, except this very last time - it wanted to cross the rear surrounds at 90Hz, which I thought was interesting - but this most recent time I had actually changed the aim of the speakers relative to MLP from previous and set that one sub's phase at 180. Don't know if that had anything to do with this or not. All quite fascinating, really!

I've only had ARC squawk at me that the sub volume was too low or too high. I'd always use REW to set the levels, 72-ish on each sub, which together ended up being 75db. Then ARC would say "volume too low", so I'd tick up the volumes on each 1db until ARC was happy. Then it'd set the trim at +6-7. THEN I'd add another 3 for personal taste. More recently, I figured, I'll go the other way! Not sure if it at all matters, but I started high volume, and backed off until ARC said it was not too loud. Yields about 82db in REW, and ARC sets trim at +3. Dunno, but I like the end result, and I did not throw in my extra +3 that I had been. Left as is, and everything seems decently balanced, more natural perhaps? Hard to describe.

Here's what I don't get - so somebody please explain this to me: in the target Profile Levels, you see the calibration offsets for two subwoofers - I've got a number for Sub 1 (+3), and a zero for Sub 2 - so what the heck is the relationship here? Yeah, the unit has two physical sub outs, and there are indeed two subs in my system - but these units only calibrate as though there is a single sub, no? So what the heck is that Sub 2 value for?
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post #4802 of 8308 Old 02-19-2018, 03:55 PM
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No, definitely don't read into what I did as what you need to do! I'd love it if somebody else could explain the physics behind it because I will not do a good job of that. But in my situation, I've got duals opposing one another on opposite walls, far from the best locations in the room, but I had zero choice based on other things - they are where they are. A single sub resulted in a decent dip in the 50Hz range. Two subs actually ended up increasing that dip a bit more, but delivered a more even performance across a wider number of listening positions, and made localization much more difficult (subs are fairly close to MLP). Switching the phase to 180 on one of the subs dramatically reduced the 50Hz dip, brought a lot of life back into the frequencies around that range.

Of course, doing this made some smaller sacrifices at other frequencies, but this seemed a very good compromise overall, and so far it sounds pretty good.
Ah right so facing each other more or less. I believe it falls into the concept of standing waves cancellation each other out, if I recall from high school physics so you get dead spots. You will get it with identical signals even if forward facing at crossover nodes.
Here: https://www.sfu.ca/sonic-studio/hand...cellation.html
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post #4803 of 8308 Old 02-19-2018, 04:08 PM
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Ah right so facing each other more or less. I believe it falls into the concept of standing waves cancellation each other out, if I recall from high school physics so you get dead spots. You will get it with identical signals even if forward facing at crossover nodes.
Here: https://www.sfu.ca/sonic-studio/hand...cellation.html
Yep! They are not exactly opposed, they are opposite, but staggered by about a foot or so - and one is on a wall with two corners, the other is on a wall that is just part of a wall that leads into a hallway and then into another open space. All part of the horrific nature of my room.....
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7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
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2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #4804 of 8308 Old 02-19-2018, 04:10 PM
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Now the one weird thing I get is that sometimes when I run ARC it tells me it can't achieve reference and therefore will calibrate to 65dB. Then, it will come out with my trims between 0 and 3dB. And sometimes it will strive for reference of 75dB and apply some pretty hefty trims to those channels. The thing is, now, with it having calibrated to reference, -30dB is really pretty loud! Whereas I used to play things at -20dB and that was loud.
ARC will do that from time to time. The quality of the sound is not affected at all, whether the trims are all high or low. All it affects is the number displayed for volume.

If you have a history with "calibrated" volume controls, you can offset the trims to get there. You'd need a calibration signal (test disc) and an SPL meter. If the numbers don't bother you, you're done.
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post #4805 of 8308 Old 02-19-2018, 04:13 PM
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I wish my recliners were in already. I don't want to get to heavy into tuning the speakers and seeing what I need to do with the room until I get the large sound absorbing couch in the middle of it!
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post #4806 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
No, definitely don't read into what I did as what you need to do! I'd love it if somebody else could explain the physics behind it because I will not do a good job of that. But in my situation, I've got duals opposing one another on opposite walls, far from the best locations in the room, but I had zero choice based on other things - they are where they are. A single sub resulted in a decent dip in the 50Hz range. Two subs actually ended up increasing that dip a bit more, but delivered a more even performance across a wider number of listening positions, and made localization much more difficult (subs are fairly close to MLP). Switching the phase to 180 on one of the subs dramatically reduced the 50Hz dip, brought a lot of life back into the frequencies around that range.

Of course, doing this made some smaller sacrifices at other frequencies, but this seemed a very good compromise overall, and so far it sounds pretty good.
Fantastic articles here, pretty much everyone needs to know written in a human language:

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speak...-interference/

Note they say Room correction ISN'T your secret weapon

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #4807 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Fantastic articles here, pretty much everyone needs to know written in a human language:

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speak...-interference/

Note they say Room correction ISN'T your secret weapon
Definitely sounds like an SBIR problem I've got, but I'm locked into locations for speakers (L/C/R) and subs and can't do any room treatments either. I got my way with everything else, but the missus draws the line here. Still, gentle persuasion, gentle persuasion....

Looks like my only (partial) salvation for my situation was the phase control knob.....
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7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #4808 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Definitely sounds like an SBIR problem I've got, but I'm locked into locations for speakers (L/C/R) and subs and can't do any room treatments either. I got my way with everything else, but the missus draws the line here. Still, gentle persuasion, gentle persuasion....

Looks like my only (partial) salvation for my situation was the phase control knob.....
Yep and lots of flowers chocolate etc is the way to go

Phase can do wonders if set perfectly. I recommend to read all of the articles in that series really great stuff, it helped me a lot ot understand my room acoustic better and treat/place speakers as best as possible. Even just a tiny amount helps. Corner loading the sub helped tremendously, see here:



JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #4809 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Fantastic articles here, pretty much everyone needs to know written in a human language:

http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/speak...-interference/

Note they say Room correction ISN'T your secret weapon
Great article and some great suggestions. I like the idea of panels behind each speaker. I can actually do that. I might get started on this in preparation.
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post #4810 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 02:42 PM
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Great article and some great suggestions. I like the idea of panels behind each speaker. I can actually do that. I might get started on this in preparation.
Yep really like them, it helped a lot, didn't think moving the speakers closer to the wall would help but it did.
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post #4811 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 04:42 PM
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New software just appeared on the Anthem website!

Changelog Information:

Quote:
1. HDMI7 & HDMI Front MHL compatibility issues causing loss of signal
2. ARC sweeps do not pause between microphone position changes
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post #4812 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 05:34 PM
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New software just appeared on the Anthem website!

Changelog Information:
Interesting that the issue with the sweeps was resolved by new AVR firmware rather than ARC2 software.
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post #4813 of 8308 Old 02-20-2018, 05:43 PM
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Interesting that the issue with the sweeps was resolved by new AVR firmware rather than ARC2 software.
The sweeps issue was introduced with the last release of the AVR firmware not ARC2 so it's an AVR firmware fix.

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post #4814 of 8308 Old 02-21-2018, 10:38 AM
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After two weeks with the MRX 720 there is some magic happening and some pure witchcraft. The magic being how dialogue is handled. My movie, TV, SACD, voicing and clarity from the center channel is amazing. I was actually doubting the quality of the Monitor Audio CP-IW460X, which uses the same ribbon tweeter from the Gold Series along with 4 additional drivers. It sounded mediocre with my NAD separates. Now it's literally the life of the party on all recordings utilizing a center speaker.

As for witchcraft the Play Fi is killing me. I sell IT for a living. I run a pretty solid home network with approx 180Mbps over cable modem with a Linksys router and Ubiquiti AP's and I have the Anthem wired over CAT6 with fully testing ports to a Cisco SG300 switch. I have the gateway modem in bridge mode and the linksys handling DHCP. Anthem hates static IP routing so I've set to DHCP and have solid connectivity for the control app on my iphone. But, as soon as I try play fi, I can connect to the one play fi device I have (MRX 720) just fine. It detects and then my options come up to play from various streaming services or local files. My local files are ALAC lossless CD rips that I can stream to my Apple TV without any issue whatsover. Play Fi doesn't appear as an option for streaming out of my Apple music library on the phone, though Play Fi says they support AirPlay but it doesn't pop up as available, even when connected. Now for the really crappy part- when I stream anything, whether it is low fi Pandora, Amazon Music or my own ALAC files, I get a stuttering playback. It's not even rare, intermittent stuttering, it's a stutter that is un-listenable, entirely. It will hang for a couple of seconds at a time.

I've tried setting up the antenna on the Anthem and removing the wired connection and tried to set up wireless but it just made some odd chirps and never came up with a list of SSID's to connect to and I'd believe that a streaming device should work best over a wired network. My AppleTV is wired and would work great except it transcodes everything to 48khz and the Anthem reveals a serious loss of fidelity on those files. Ultimately, I am going to implement a Synology NAS to stream from but am worried that this system isn't the one that will best function in that scenario and it may be that I go to Bluesound and implement a Node 2 on the setup or a Cambridge CX streamer. Anyone have any advice for their Play Fi setup or have experienced something similar here? The DTS site and their FAQ aren't helpful and it seems like their tech is really geared toward people who want a lot of multiroom setup with little Play Fi enabled speakers scattered around (a la Sonos), vs a central AV streaming system.

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post #4815 of 8308 Old 02-21-2018, 02:18 PM
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I don’t believe Play-Fi supports airplay. I’m not sure what is causing the stuttering of playback over your network but can tell you how I’ve set things up with my iTunes ALAC library.
I actually have two methods:
1) using the pc Play-Fi application you can stream your pc’s audio over Play-Fi. I open up iTunes and enable home sharing. I believe that is what Apple calls it. I connect to speakers that I want to play from in the Play-Fi application on the pc. I can then use the Apple remote app on my phone to control music playback from my iTunes library.

2) Use a dlna server (I use plex) to share the iTunes library. Then use the Play-Fi app on your phone to navigate to the dlna media server.

As a user of Play-Fi I’m more of the multiroom sonos type user. But can tell you that I don’t experience any stuttering and multi-room playback is working well. Moving from room to room and even multiple Wi-Fi speakers in the same room seem to be perfectly in sync for me. I wish the app was more user friendly and I do on occasion run into issues where a speaker is not found or Spotify does not see a speaker group. Reboot of Wi-Fi speakers fixes things. Those issues are more rare now though than last year. Play-Fi seems to be updating their platform regularly and I’ve noticed lots of improvement over the last year.
Hope you figure out what is going on with the stuttering of playback.



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post #4816 of 8308 Old 02-21-2018, 04:16 PM
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I don’t believe Play-Fi supports airplay. I’m not sure what is causing the stuttering of playback over your network but can tell you how I’ve set things up with my iTunes ALAC library.
I actually have two methods:
1) using the pc Play-Fi application you can stream your pc’s audio over Play-Fi. I open up iTunes and enable home sharing. I believe that is what Apple calls it. I connect to speakers that I want to play from in the Play-Fi application on the pc. I can then use the Apple remote app on my phone to control music playback from my iTunes library.

2) Use a dlna server (I use plex) to share the iTunes library. Then use the Play-Fi app on your phone to navigate to the dlna media server.

As a user of Play-Fi I’m more of the multiroom sonos type user. But can tell you that I don’t experience any stuttering and multi-room playback is working well. Moving from room to room and even multiple Wi-Fi speakers in the same room seem to be perfectly in sync for me. I wish the app was more user friendly and I do on occasion run into issues where a speaker is not found or Spotify does not see a speaker group. Reboot of Wi-Fi speakers fixes things. Those issues are more rare now though than last year. Play-Fi seems to be updating their platform regularly and I’ve noticed lots of improvement over the last year.
Hope you figure out what is going on with the stuttering of playback.

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So on a whim I made two changes today: 1) I closed every app on my phone except Play Fi and rebooted my iPhone. 2) while that was happening I went into my router and assigned the Anthem MRX 720, my iPhone and "Play Fi Device" which oddly shows up as a separate device entirely to the Media Prioritization within the router settings.

Voila! It worked. Immediately my sound went from hollow and tinny with the Apple TV to full and lossless. I'm now playing my ALAC rips and my most finely mastered materials in full quality. I'm quite happy with the result. Yes, the interface could be spruced up by DTS and the terminology they use for setup is really geared toward small speakers that are wirelessly connected in the house to be played by telling Alexa what to do... but I'm finding a good sound quality and it's been pretty easy. And yes, it does state it works with AirPlay but I'm just using the App rather than using Airplay. As long as I can get my files to play and my services to play I don't care too much about the interface. The pedestrian appearance is a minor gripe.

Maybe I don't need a Bluesound Node 2 after all and your setup #2 seems to closely mirror what I'm after once I get my NAS set up and running and move my iTunes folders and all of my ALAC files over to it. I don't have a huge collection, but enough where my 128GB iphone is starting to fill up and many of my old CD's are still not yet ripped.
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post #4817 of 8308 Old 02-21-2018, 08:57 PM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by NuDLP
And yes, it does state it works with AirPlay but I'm just using the App rather than using Airplay.

Glad you got things to work. Can you point me to where it says that the mrx720 or Play-Fi supports AirPlay? Would love it if it did.
Are you able to see your MRX receiver as an airplay speaker?



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post #4818 of 8308 Old 02-22-2018, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
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Glad you got things to work. Can you point me to where it says that the mrx720 or Play-Fi supports AirPlay? Would love it if it did.
Are you able to see your MRX receiver as an airplay speaker?



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And just when I thought it was working... I flipped the button that says "critical listening" and it started hiccuping again. I spent this morning running traceroutes, pings, testing latency and packet loss across the network using the Anthem's IP address, the switch, the router, numerous other devices on the LAN and even via my iphone to test how that was all being translated by my access point. I came up with nearly ZERO loss and extremely low latency. However, the sound cuts in and out under the Critical Listening mode. Even when the material is simply CD quality. I'll have to drum that up with DTS support who have been quite responsive on their end.

On another note, DTS uses the phone to transmit data, even if the data resides on a NAS. Even DTS admits this isn't ideal. So, if you have a NAS, it will pull the music from your NAS to your phone or controlling device and then stream out to the DTS node. This introduces additional hops and opens up the data to additional loss and latency. They stated they are working on changing that practice. I also then asked Bluesound if they handle a NAS to node scenario in that manner and was told 'no' that the app on your phone is simply a controller and doesn't transmit the data itself. That seems to be much more logical and efficient. Having a wired network would allow me to push large music files across the wired connection without bogging down wifi and that to me is a valuable practice.

Here is the link I was referring to for PlayFi and AirPlay: https://play-fi.com/faq/entry/how-do...lay-fi-product

After re-reading through what I can find on it:

Using AirPlay with a Play-Fi product works exactly the same as any other AirPlay speaker. Once the speaker is on your network, any app or operating system that has AirPlay audio output controls will automatically discover the speaker and add it to the list of available AirPlay devices. It'll even have the same name it has in the Play-Fi app. No additional setup required.

But then on another DTS page:

AirPlay is an optional feature for our brand partners, so this capability is not available on all Play-Fi products. Please check with your manufacturer to see if AirPlay is included with your model.


So maybe Anthem MRX cannot do this? I'm pretty sure that at some point when I went into my music folder on the iPhone and pulled up the AirPlay symbol I was given DTS Play Fi as a streaming option, along with my usual Apple TV or to play the music over the iPhone. Oddly, it isn't there now. So, not really sure what the status is on that. Anyway, off to email DTS support regarding this odd situation with the Critical Listening Mode!

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post #4819 of 8308 Old 02-22-2018, 05:13 PM
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Thanks for the detailed write up on how dts Play-Fi works. Didn’t know it was implemented so inefficiently.

I have a play-fy speaker with airplay functionality and that speaker indeed shows up as an airplay speaker or a Play-Fi speaker. But my mrx720 and my other two WiFi speakers do not. But those don’t state they support AirPlay. I think airplay has to be supported by the receiver or speaker natively. The Play-fi protocol does not give you airplay.




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post #4820 of 8308 Old 02-22-2018, 07:24 PM
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I have used play-fi a few times on my PC playing flac's from foobar 2000. The way play-fi works is that it installs a virtual audio device in your system so your system just plays the content to the new sound device, which just so happens to be the DTS 'software" device that streams it losslessly to the play-fi device. I have my anthem wired. The receiver is set for DHCP but I set a static IP for it in the router so it's always on the same IP address. The laptop is wi-fi. Everything works great. Never had any drops or hick-ups. Unfortunately, I can't really help you with your apple products. While I own an iPhone, I don't buy into their brand of everything "just working" as you're experiencing how well things "just work" yourself right now.

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post #4821 of 8308 Old 02-22-2018, 09:25 PM
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I Unfortunately, I can't really help you with your apple products. While I own an iPhone, I don't buy into their brand of everything "just working" as you're experiencing how well things "just work" yourself right now.

I don’t believe the issue NuDLP is experiencing is with Apple products. It’s with dts Play-Fi and NuDLP’s network environment. I’ve had no networking issues with dts Play-Fi and critical listening mode on my network. I control speaker output from my PC which is wired, my iPhone dts Play-Fi app and from my iPhone Spotify app with no issues across my 4 dts Play-Fi products (mrx 720 wired and three Wi-Fi speakers).

Apple Airplay and Play-Fi are not related in any way. This is what we just cleared up. Play-Fi’s website was a little confusing on the subject. What was confusing on Play-Fi’s website was that some speakers and or receivers that have Play-Fi functionality also implement airplay functionality. MRX-720 and my two paradigm Play-Fi speakers do not implement airplay functionality hence why they don’t work with airplay. Not really apples fault. My one Wi-Fi speaker that does implement both works fine as a Play-Fi speaker and an airplay speaker. So it all makes sense on that front.
@NuDLP let us know what the Play-Fi folks say about your networking and critical listening mode issue. The only time I’ve run into issues with listening on my network are when too many users are streaming at the same time wirelessly. And the issue happens with my wireless speakers.
I’m hoping they implement more optimized method to stream.... eliminate the multiple hops issue your brought up earlier.

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post #4822 of 8308 Old 02-23-2018, 05:40 AM
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After about a month of playing around and experimenting I was able to get Play-FI working perfectly in my home. However, in order to do this I had to pretty much follow the DTS/Anthem/Paradigm "playbook" so to speak.

That is:
1) My music apps are pretty ubiquitous; Amazon, Pandora, Spotify
2) My Play-FI speaker is a Paradigm (which I was able to get for free during Anthem's December promotion)
3) I keep all software up-to-date (normally this happens automatically)
4) I was able to get a beta version of firmware for the 1120 which pretty much fixed my connection issues.

Things should work more universally than they do, however, I had the almost the same issues when I was using Marantz's streaming services.
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post #4823 of 8308 Old 02-23-2018, 09:38 AM
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I don’t believe the issue NuDLP is experiencing is with Apple products. It’s with dts Play-Fi and NuDLP’s network environment. I’ve had no networking issues with dts Play-Fi and critical listening mode on my network. I control speaker output from my PC which is wired, my iPhone dts Play-Fi app and from my iPhone Spotify app with no issues across my 4 dts Play-Fi products (mrx 720 wired and three Wi-Fi speakers).

Apple Airplay and Play-Fi are not related in any way. This is what we just cleared up. Play-Fi’s website was a little confusing on the subject. What was confusing on Play-Fi’s website was that some speakers and or receivers that have Play-Fi functionality also implement airplay functionality. MRX-720 and my two paradigm Play-Fi speakers do not implement airplay functionality hence why they don’t work with airplay. Not really apples fault. My one Wi-Fi speaker that does implement both works fine as a Play-Fi speaker and an airplay speaker. So it all makes sense on that front.
@NuDLP let us know what the Play-Fi folks say about your networking and critical listening mode issue. The only time I’ve run into issues with listening on my network are when too many users are streaming at the same time wirelessly. And the issue happens with my wireless speakers.
I’m hoping they implement more optimized method to stream.... eliminate the multiple hops issue your brought up earlier.

Pedro









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It's definitely more my network ecosystem than Play Fi but it seems Play Fi has a demanding stream load on the network and I think now that either my switch or router are doing something with that data and either capping it, or "snooping" packets, causing intermittent hiccups. I thought yesterday that removing my Ubiquiti AP was the answer but then it started acting up again. Now I'm running traceroutes, checking for Double NAT and getting into some serious settings in my Cisco switch. I bought an L3 switch but only use it as unmanaged because I don't run any VLANs or anything. My network just doesn't require anything that cumbersome or advanced and my switch is essentially just a method of adding ports to my system as I have at least 13 always connected devices. Now I'm diving into advanced network setups and really scanning for anything that would be throttling or inspecting data. Trouble shooting networks isn't fun. Also, since I work from home I have to be careful not to bring down my VPN connection back to the office!

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post #4824 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 02:38 PM
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I've finally fired mine up and played a test disc on an oppo. All worked ok.

This morning I was trying to get my panasonic UHD to work with it. I don't have a 4k display yet (isn't here) and for some reason I couldn't get anything from it - worked fine on my Sony TV upstairs, but downstairs I just have it hooked to an old computer monitor). I'm guessing it is some HDCP version issue.

Anyhow, when I moved back to the oppo, I suddenly get no sound now. It is just showing "NO SIGNAL" for audio no matter what I do.

Any suggestions how to fix it? I try searching the thread for No sound and of course it won't search for no, and even quoting the phrase it still strips the no.
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post #4825 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 03:45 PM
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I've finally fired mine up and played a test disc on an oppo. All worked ok.

This morning I was trying to get my panasonic UHD to work with it. I don't have a 4k display yet (isn't here) and for some reason I couldn't get anything from it - worked fine on my Sony TV upstairs, but downstairs I just have it hooked to an old computer monitor). I'm guessing it is some HDCP version issue.

Anyhow, when I moved back to the oppo, I suddenly get no sound now. It is just showing "NO SIGNAL" for audio no matter what I do.

Any suggestions how to fix it? I try searching the thread for No sound and of course it won't search for no, and even quoting the phrase it still strips the no.
What's the setup on the virtual input look like? Are you bitstreaming or decoding on the oppo?

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post #4826 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 04:07 PM
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What's the setup on the virtual input look like? Are you bitstreaming or decoding on the oppo?
What is the virtual input?

The oppo is set to auto, not pcm or bitstream
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post #4827 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 04:15 PM
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What is the virtual input?

The oppo is set to auto, not pcm or bitstream
All inputs on the anthem are virtual. You select an HDMI for video and an HDMI or other source or audio and set up the input.
I'd take the oppo out of auto. You need to know what's failing between the bitstream or decode. Try it in bitstream and try it in pcm and if one has sound report which it is so we know where the breakdown lies.
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post #4828 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 04:33 PM
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All inputs on the anthem are virtual. You select an HDMI for video and an HDMI or other source or audio and set up the input.
I'd take the oppo out of auto. You need to know what's failing between the bitstream or decode. Try it in bitstream and try it in pcm and if one has sound report which it is so we know where the breakdown lies.
I've tried bitstream and lpcm on the oppo and just shows no signal on the anthem.

What the heck. I just never had an issue on my prior units, Onkyos...
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post #4829 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 04:39 PM
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I've tried bitstream and lpcm on the oppo and just shows no signal on the anthem.

What the heck. I just never had an issue on my prior units, Onkyos...
So again, what’s the virtual input setup look like on the Anthen for this source? I’d be starting here and if that’s all correct I’d be moving to new hdmi cable next.
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post #4830 of 8308 Old 02-24-2018, 04:46 PM
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So again, what’s the virtual input setup look like on the Anthen for this source? I’d be starting here and if that’s all correct I’d be moving to new hdmi cable next.
I've tried different HDMI cables, different outputs on the oppo and diff inputs on the anthem. The oppo is set to dual AV for both hdmis, not that I'd used HDMI 2 prior

On the anthem side it looks:
Video Input HDMI X (1 and 2)
Audio Input HDMI
Zone 2 off

Haven't touched anything.
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