Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 168 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5011 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 01:20 PM
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Hi guys,

I have Dali Helicon 400 mk2 front speakers. Their frequency range is from 31,5-27000 +- 3hz. Do you think that I should go to 28hz in 2.0 profile, even if ARC does not go down that low? or should I leave what ever ARC shoots out?

Thanks
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post #5012 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 02:32 PM
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Ever since doing a hard reset I’m unable to connect ARC and my 720, play-fi doesn’t recognize the avr either...suggestions?


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Panasonic P60VT60 Calibrated by Chad B
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post #5013 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RobCRert View Post
if the MRX has only a 2 prong outlet how will the cheater plug help, or is this something different to do to get the ground lift. Any advantage to hooking the MRX ground terminal to anything?
oops. With a 2-prong power cord, there will be no benefit from the ground lift. Still might be useful to explore any other ground paths, especially in a rack where several units are grounded through faceplate screws into metal rails. If that applies.

Having said that, if the ground lift combined with improved gain structure rendered hum safely inaudible, time to sit back and enjoy.

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win7 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
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Last edited by Roger Dressler; 03-18-2018 at 03:21 PM. Reason: expanded
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post #5014 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
By all means reduce the amp's level controls and compensate with the MRX gain trims (can go as high as +10 or more), that can make a big difference.

Perhaps the ground lift would work better on the MRX than the amp. It's not possible to predict. But now that we see there's a "chassis ground" component to the hum issue, you can explore further to see if other methods get you better results.
Over on the ATI AT52xNC thread, SteveH posted this about chasing down hiss in a home theater. I thought it showed some pretty useful insight, so I'm sharing it on this thread to see if it's of any help.

===
Re: "hiss". the experiments to understand the source of the hiss is easy but time consuming. It's what I call "dividing the world in 1/2" through a series of experiments. The statement: "So-and-so amp (or preamp) didn't do it before." I've heard that one about 500 times now and is rarely ever relevant. The blame is usually assigned to the last item in the mix and people want to jump to that conclusion. But in reality, a new interaction between the grounds take place.

Steps to Isolate: 
1. Disconnect EVERY cable to the amp but the speaker wires. By definition, every wire also means the 12 volt trigger. Also, no subs right now. Reason: the goal is to remove ground loops. If the hiss is gone, that pretty much exonerates the amp from generating the "hiss". If you still have a "hiss", then you should be pointing at the amp. Normally if the amp is the culprit, then the hiss is coming from a specific channel. So put our ear to each speaker and note accordingly. The amp itself is rarely ever the problem; maybe one out of a hundred? So I'm going to take a leap and say the ATI is going to be dead quiet. 

2. If there is no hiss in step one, reconnect up the balanced or RCA cables to the preamp. On the preamp, disconnect every input and output wire. That means the no HDMI in, no HDMI to the TV, no composite video or component, and no subs. Just the analog wires from the prepro to the amp. If you have another amp to run ATMOS, don't connect to it as we are trying to figure out if the amp in question is the problem. Now turn on the preamp. Do you hear a hiss? If so, is it volume dependent? If you hear hiss and it is not volume dependent, chances are you are dealing with a ground loop OR a high noise floor on the preamp. If the hiss increases with volume, you have a noisy preamp problem OR (rarely) a noisy dimmer switch on the same circuit. Next, make sure the preamp and amp is plugged in the EXACT same outlet. Being on the same circuit/breaker is not good enough. Use an extension cord if needed. Is there now a hiss? If it disappears, it is a ground loop. If not, your preamp is noisy. If there is no hiss, leave the amp and preamp connected like it is in this step, make sure the preamp and amp are still plugged into the SAME OUTLET and proceed to step three.

3. If you are at step three, we are searching for the source of the ground loop. It could be that your sub is plugged into another circuit. Or your TV. Or even if you are on the same circuit, plugging in an outlet 15 feet away allows for a signal to ride on the small drop in resistance. At this point, you have to write down everything you do in an effort to figure out when there the hiss is interjected. It's outside the scope of this thread so I won't go though the next 10 steps. There are a dozen or more ways to make the ground loop disappear. Some of them include Jensen transformers on the cable input. Or tying chassis ground to every device in a daisy chains (and then tying it to ground). Another way is to run a dedicated line. Of doing a short ground jump from a couple of circuits behind the equipment. Others lift grounds.
===

Hoping this helps you run that hiss to ground.
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post #5015 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 04:46 PM
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Bill-99, thanks for the info. Agree it is time consuming. I will run through the specific steps when I get another chance to spend some time on it.

Had a weird moment, when I was removing some of the RCA cables, one touched a rack shelf, and got static. I plugged the ZM650 into another circuit, still hum, but if I disconnected the rest of the rack from the dedicated 240V circuit through the Torus, no Hum, so have some more data points to help isolate it.

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post #5016 of 8179 Old 03-18-2018, 10:23 PM
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when recalibrating does ARC take the reading of trims levels from your last calibration into account ? Or does it clear them like Audyssey does ?

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post #5017 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobCRert View Post
Roger, thanks for all the advice and help. I did have a follow up question to make sure I was understanding correctly, but if the MRX has only a 2 prong outlet how will the cheater plug help, or is this something different to do to get the ground lift. Any advantage to hooking the MRX ground terminal to anything?


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In general, you want only the main receiver to be grounded and none of the other components. I'd start ground lifting all of them. You can also investigate running a ground wire from the ground point on the anthem to each of the components and see if that helps too.

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post #5018 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
In general, you want only the main receiver to be grounded and none of the other components. I'd start ground lifting all of them. You can also investigate running a ground wire from the ground point on the anthem to each of the components and see if that helps too.
markmon1, can't say I've heard this before. I don't have any hum/hiss issues at present and haven't given this any thought. So naive question from the uninformed... Why this approach vs. taking every grounding opportunity?

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post #5019 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 09:15 AM
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anyone know if there is some form of passthru mode for video that will remove all video processing (therefore losing all osd) and just send it "as is".

My problem is changing refresh rate(in 4k) on my HTPC seem to mess up my JVC projector(puting in in lock up state requiring a shutdown) randomly 2-3 times a week when I go thru my MRX-1120. But if use seperate HDMI for audio and video(Having to use extended display in my HTPC wich is a pain) then I don't have the problem anymore(been doing seperate for 2 month now without a single lock up).

Just to be clear yes I got all new certified HDMI cables so that is not the issue here. And I blame JVC for now handling that particular error without having to shutdown(alway very bad for a projector).

I remember on and old Denon receiver I use to own a long time ago there was such an option to send video "untouched". so I wonder if maybe there is some king of hidden feature I am not aware of on my Anthem receiver.

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post #5020 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lunnar View Post
anyone know if there is some form of passthru mode for video that will remove all video processing (therefore losing all osd) and just send it "as is".

My problem is changing refresh rate(in 4k) on my HTPC seem to mess up my JVC projector(puting in in lock up state requiring a shutdown) randomly 2-3 times a week when I go thru my MRX-1120. But if use seperate HDMI for audio and video(Having to use extended display in my HTPC wich is a pain) then I don't have the problem anymore(been doing seperate for 2 month now without a single lock up).

Just to be clear yes I got all new certified HDMI cables so that is not the issue here. And I blame JVC for now handling that particular error without having to shutdown(alway very bad for a projector).

I remember on and old Denon receiver I use to own a long time ago there was such an option to send video "untouched". so I wonder if maybe there is some king of hidden feature I am not aware of on my Anthem receiver.
Try going in to the preference menu. There is a setting in there that allows to to turn on/off the small display at the bottom of the screen that shows volume sound mode etc... The setting is usually set to 16:9 or 2:35 so you can tell the receiver what your screen size is so it positions the small info menu properly. Try setting it to off.
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post #5021 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 05:11 PM
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I have the 1120 and am hooking up a Oppo UDP-205. What is the best way to connect stereo for CD and SACD? There isnt an XLR cable input so if i connect with RCA cables to the left and right speaker port will the 1120 do multi-channel stereo sound? Thanks.
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post #5022 of 8179 Old 03-19-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by stevoid1 View Post
I have the 1120 and am hooking up a Oppo UDP-205. What is the best way to connect stereo for CD and SACD? There isnt an XLR cable input so if i connect with RCA cables to the left and right speaker port will the 1120 do multi-channel stereo sound?
If you want the benefits of ARC or surround processing (AnthemLogic) then the best connection is HDMI.

If you want stereo analog passed through the 1120 with no DSP, then the RCA connections are required.

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Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win7 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
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post #5023 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
If you want the benefits of ARC or surround processing (AnthemLogic) then the best connection is HDMI.

If you want stereo analog passed through the 1120 with no DSP, then the RCA connections are required.
I was going to use HDMI for everything except stereo for CD and SACD, because it was my understanding that the UDP-205 has the top-of-the-line digital to audio converter, one step up from the 1120. Is that true?
If so, and I use RCA, does that mean that Anthem room correction doesn't work?
Thank you!
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post #5024 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by stevoid1 View Post
I was going to use HDMI for everything except stereo for CD and SACD, because it was my understanding that the UDP-205 has the top-of-the-line digital to audio converter, one step up from the 1120. Is that true?
If so, and I use RCA, does that mean that Anthem room correction doesn't work?
Thank you!
I did the exact same thing with my 1120 / UDP-205 combo. I settled on Coax out from the 205 and into the 1120. I created a separate input on the 1120 which uses the analog inputs, bypasses digital processing, enables the two front speakers and subs only, and bypasses ARC. I ran a series of tests and this was the combo I settled on.
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post #5025 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Try going in to the preference menu. There is a setting in there that allows to to turn on/off the small display at the bottom of the screen that shows volume sound mode etc... The setting is usually set to 16:9 or 2:35 so you can tell the receiver what your screen size is so it positions the small info menu properly. Try setting it to off.
wow, I somehow never saw this options before.. silly me...

Thanks, I've set myself back thru the receiver. so far so good, didn't had any lock up last night( and I did a lot of testing). only time will tell, thanks a lot!
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post #5026 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by stevoid1 View Post
I was going to use HDMI for everything except stereo for CD and SACD, because it was my understanding that the UDP-205 has the top-of-the-line digital to audio converter, one step up from the 1120. Is that true?
The 205 reportedly has very nice DACs.

Quote:
If so, and I use RCA, does that mean that Anthem room correction doesn't work?
No. It means if you want ARC to work, you have to enable the 1120's DSP processing, which adds A/D and D/A conversions into the chain. So there'd be no point in using the analog input in that case. Try HDMI or S/PDIF if you want ARC.

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I did the exact same thing with my 1120 / UDP-205 combo. I settled on Coax out from the 205 and into the 1120. I created a separate input on the 1120 which uses the analog inputs, bypasses digital processing, enables the two front speakers and subs only, and bypasses ARC. I ran a series of tests and this was the combo I settled on.
If you bypassed digital processing, enabling the subs will not do anything, right? You're getting full range signals into the L/R speakers.
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Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win7 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
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I want to take several ARC measurements and save them, do I do this in the profile1-4 speaker profile section in the level calibration menu? Is there an option in arc pc or arc mobile to select a profile?

Thoughts on arc mobile? Emailed Anthem and they indicated that they have a microphone for mobile version of ARC.


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post #5028 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunnar View Post
anyone know if there is some form of passthru mode for video that will remove all video processing (therefore losing all osd) and just send it "as is".

My problem is changing refresh rate(in 4k) on my HTPC seem to mess up my JVC projector(puting in in lock up state requiring a shutdown) randomly 2-3 times a week when I go thru my MRX-1120. But if use seperate HDMI for audio and video(Having to use extended display in my HTPC wich is a pain) then I don't have the problem anymore(been doing seperate for 2 month now without a single lock up).

Just to be clear yes I got all new certified HDMI cables so that is not the issue here. And I blame JVC for now handling that particular error without having to shutdown(alway very bad for a projector).

I remember on and old Denon receiver I use to own a long time ago there was such an option to send video "untouched". so I wonder if maybe there is some king of hidden feature I am not aware of on my Anthem receiver.
This sounds like a video driver issue to be honest.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #5029 of 8179 Old 03-20-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lunnar View Post
wow, I somehow never saw this options before.. silly me...

Thanks, I've set myself back thru the receiver. so far so good, didn't had any lock up last night( and I did a lot of testing). only time will tell, thanks a lot!
I don't think this changes anything other than preventing the anthem from injecting HUD. Does your display in windows show up as the JVC or the anthem?

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #5030 of 8179 Old 03-22-2018, 09:14 AM
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This sounds like a video driver issue to be honest.
Well I am not sure exactly what is the cause the problem, but once it happend my projector is screwed up for that particular refresh rate and resolution even on other sources. And removing the receiver from the chain prevent the problem from happening.

This problem did happend to me a few times on other devices like cable box and PS4(they all go thru the receiver), but since on those device I almost never change the resolution/refresh rate and it stay at 60hz . it not an issue. but on my pc, I watch movies, sports, netflix, and I do a lot of gaming so resolution/refresh rate change occured a lot more.

and to add more complexity to this particular problem it only happend when the Frame interpolation is active on my JVC projector(before I discovered that removing the receiver from the chain will fix the problem, what I did was disable the Frame interpolation every time I change resolution/refresh rate... quite anoying but it worked).

So it seem like and issue with the HDMI feed been cut off on refresh rate change and maybe the anthem receiver miss a frame or 2 during the sync and then the JVC projector try to intepolate some screwed up data and Kaboum!. Still I blame JVC for not handling the giberish data by just failing the sync and trying again.

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post #5031 of 8179 Old 03-22-2018, 09:15 AM
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I don't think this changes anything other than preventing the anthem from injecting HUD. Does your display in windows show up as the JVC or the anthem?
Show up as Anthem

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post #5032 of 8179 Old 03-22-2018, 01:43 PM
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Show up as Anthem
Yea if it was 100% pure pass through then the EDID from the display is what would show up not the one from the Anthem. I think those HUD settings don't make any difference.

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post #5033 of 8179 Old 03-22-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
I want to take several ARC measurements and save them, do I do this in the profile1-4 speaker profile section in the level calibration menu? Is there an option in arc pc or arc mobile to select a profile?

Thoughts on arc mobile? Emailed Anthem and they indicated that they have a microphone for mobile version of ARC.
What are you trying to do; change a variable within the same speaker set, or change speakers within the profiles, or...

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
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post #5034 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 04:10 AM
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What are you trying to do; change a variable within the same speaker set, or change speakers within the profiles, or...
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I want to take several ARC measurements and save them, do I do this in the profile1-4 speaker profile section in the level calibration menu? Is there an option in arc pc or arc mobile to select a profile?

Thoughts on arc mobile? Emailed Anthem and they indicated that they have a microphone for mobile version of ARC.


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Good question from Jonas as there may be an easier/quicker way to do what you want to. However, to answer your original question, yes you can take a set of measurements for each profile.
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post #5035 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 04:12 AM
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What are you trying to do; change a variable within the same speaker set, or change speakers within the profiles, or...

Good morning, I want to to do a couple ARC readings using ARC mobile and PC and be able to switch back and forth to see which I like the best. ARC PC likes to set my L/C/R crossovers a little high (130) rather than the recommended 100.

Could I save them under configuration settings in level calibration?


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post #5036 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 06:42 AM
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Good morning, I want to to do a couple ARC readings using ARC mobile and PC and be able to switch back and forth to see which I like the best. ARC PC likes to set my L/C/R crossovers a little high (130) rather than the recommended 100.

Could I save them under configuration settings in level calibration?
Why not just change the crossovers in one of the profiles in the PC ARC file? You can then create two identical inputs for whatever you're testing, but just assign a different config to either one, one for 100Hz and one for 130Hz, switch back and forth.

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post #5037 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 06:52 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

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Why not just change the crossovers in one of the profiles in the PC ARC file? You can then create two identical inputs for whatever you're testing, but just assign a different config to either one, one for 100Hz and one for 130Hz, switch back and forth.

Thanks...I’m new to ARC so trying to figure this out...I saved arc to profile 1 and my adjustments to profile 2. How do I know which is active or currently being used?


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post #5038 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 08:25 AM
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Thanks...I’m new to ARC so trying to figure this out...I saved arc to profile 1 and my adjustments to profile 2. How do I know which is active or currently being used?

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I figured it out...had to load and save settings and then I can toggle back and forth between the two in the input section.

Can’t really tell a difference between the 100 and 130 crossover for the fronts.



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post #5039 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 08:40 AM
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I figured it out...had to load and save settings and then I can toggle back and forth between the two in the input section.

Can’t really tell a difference between the 100 and 130 crossover for the fronts.



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For films, I don't detect a significant difference in front channel crossovers, but I find that with well recorded 2CH music that contains well balanced bass, the change in bass quality as I try different crossovers can be quite apparent.

For whatever reason, I find that in my room, with the sub up front relatively close to the LCR, 100-110 tends to sound subjectively better than the traditional 80. What I find very interesting is that I also found that to be true with my previous rig (Denon with Aud XT32 and NHT Classic main channels). I can only speculate on the reason, but it would seem that there is something about my room that contributes to the perceived bass quality with different crossovers.

Suffice to say it is easy to experiment. Just set-up two or more profiles with differing crossovers, select the input in question, and change the profile via the remote while playing well balanced music of which you are familiar. I find Steely Dan Aja works well, as well as Alice in Chains unplugged (24/48 rip from the DVD...much better mastering than the CD) which has amplified acoustic bass.
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post #5040 of 8179 Old 03-23-2018, 09:41 AM
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For films, I don't detect a significant difference in front channel crossovers, but I find that with well recorded 2CH music that contains well balanced bass, the change in bass quality as I try different crossovers can be quite apparent.

For whatever reason, I find that in my room, with the sub up front relatively close to the LCR, 100-110 tends to sound subjectively better than the traditional 80. What I find very interesting is that I also found that to be true with my previous rig (Denon with Aud XT32 and NHT Classic main channels). I can only speculate on the reason, but it would seem that there is something about my room that contributes to the perceived bass quality with different crossovers.

Suffice to say it is easy to experiment. Just set-up two or more profiles with differing crossovers, select the input in question, and change the profile via the remote while playing well balanced music of which you are familiar. I find Steely Dan Aja works well, as well as Alice in Chains unplugged (24/48 rip from the DVD...much better mastering than the CD) which has amplified acoustic bass.

Great info...thanks! Are you using ARC for 2CH analog too or is that even a possibility?


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Last edited by mbroadus; 03-23-2018 at 09:53 AM.
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