Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 189 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5641 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondongon View Post

Maybe you mean that his specific setup/network may suffer from some impairments. A decent 5Ghz .ac router is more than capable of streaming 192/24, which is far less demanding than streaming 4K. But all depends on many factors...


It used to be many many years ago, given a good modern 5Ghz .ac router with QOS, it is far faster than 10/100 wired Ethernet connection for streaming real-time media. In order to isolate that the OP’s WiF equipment/environment isn’t the culprit, he needs to do tests on his local network.
A decent router, while may be faster than 10/100 network, is far less stable than 10/100. You can't beat running a wire for mission critical processes. I agree more testing needs to be done. His network may be fine, or reception to his receiver may not be fine.
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post #5642 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
A decent router, while may be faster than 10/100 network, is far less stable than 10/100. You can't beat running a wire for mission critical processes. I agree more testing needs to be done. His network may be fine, or reception to his receiver may not be fine.
Agreed, a wireless medium is far more vulnerable to impairments than a wired medium. And for HiFi audio I only trust wired connections, although I was pleasantly surprised with my Tidal HiFi PlayFi streaming (of course I wasn't monitoring RSSI, packet loss, jitter, or any other impairments on my network )

We don't know if the OP is using playFi over a wireless medium, he can try the playFi Windows app on a desktop to isolate any WiFi issues from the equation. In my scenario, the iOS PlayFi app is actually retrieving the audio from Tidal servers to my iPhone then to the MRX over WiFi. I originally thought it could request a stream from Tidal servers and direct to MRX directly using my wired connection and just act as a "remote control app" but sadly no.

Last edited by rondongon; 07-06-2018 at 03:37 AM.
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post #5643 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by deucevantage View Post
Of course U R correct -typo-the 2 USB s , front aNd back, are for firmware upgrades via thumb drive
Another quick correction, only the front USB port is for firmware updates. The back USB port is for factory diagnostics (I think). I tried for hours to update via the back port before reading the manual where it states to firmware update via the front port specifically.

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post #5644 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Gradenko View Post
Another quick correction, only the front USB port is for firmware updates. The back USB port is for factory diagnostics (I think). I tried for hours to update via the back port before reading the manual where it states to firmware update via the front port specifically.

Correct, the rear USB port is also for PlayFi updates if the update fails via the mobile app.
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post #5645 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 01:15 PM
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Newbie here. Just got my MRX 720 and I have a question about the display. What does the 3/4 mean in Dolby TruedHD 3/4? Same question for DTS-HD 3/2?
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post #5646 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backlaboy View Post
Newbie here. Just got my MRX 720 and I have a question about the display. What does the 3/4 mean in Dolby TruedHD 3/4? Same question for DTS-HD 3/2?
3/4 means 3 front speakers & 4 surround speakers. 3/2 means 3 front speakers & 2 surround speakers. It means 7.1 and 5.1.
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post #5647 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrspin11 View Post
Looking for troubleshooting with hi-res files in Play-Fi-
Whenever I try and play a 24/192 file through Play-Fi, it skips, stutters, it never plays smooth. I have all my files on a Synology 214play NAS. I tried Plex on it too, but same thing. My router is a Orb with a satellite mesh, so there should be enough bandwith.

Could the issue be the NAS? Like I need a better one with faster chip, ram, something? Or is trying to play 24/192 never going to be smooth?

Thanks!
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post #5648 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondongon View Post
First, email the PlayFi dev with all the tech details, you can find the email and good tech support at https://play-fi.com/faq/. He was of great support in identifying the hardware issue with my MRX while Anthem was clueless but they happily and quickly accepted PlayFi troubleshooting! (Initially, my first MRX didn’t support critical listenning mode due to a hardware glitch, once replaced, it was all good.)

I have used PlayFi from iOS devices coupled with a 5Ghz router (old Netgear R7000) and « Pure Critical Listening Mode » (did you enable it in the app) for the free 3 months of Tidal HiFi without a glitch but can’t recall if any of the material had 192Khz. Most of the media I used from Tidal HiFi was 44.1Khz/24/32. MRX connected via Ethernet to my router.

On what device are you using PlayFi, wired or wireless (2.4 or 5Ghz)? And do you have your NAS wired to your router via Ethernet? The rough stereo streaming requirements for 192/24 is around 10Mbps, while it’s around 2Mpbs for 44.1khz.


Maybe you mean that his specific setup/network may suffer from some impairments. A decent 5Ghz .ac router is more than capable of streaming 192/24, which is far less demanding than streaming 4K. But all depends on many factors...


It used to be many many years ago, given a good modern 5Ghz .ac router with QOS, it is far faster than 10/100 wired Ethernet connection for streaming real-time media. In order to isolate that the OP’s WiF equipment/environment isn’t the culprit, he needs to do tests on his local network.
Thank you! Ill email Play-Fi. I figured I'd ask here first, with Play Fi being 2nd.
My connection is the NAS ethered to the Orbi, then the MRX is connected by Wi-Fi. I wish I would logistically wire the MRX straight to the router, but kinda hard to do.
Yes, when I play a 192/24 in Critical Mode, it stutters/skips. 96/24 works great. If i dont run critical mode, the 192/24 getting downsized works fine. But, I'd like to enjoy the files in their proper form.
Thank you for the help!

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post #5649 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 10:39 PM
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Hi, anyone having issues with Avm60 remote signal also controlling AppleTV? When watching anything on AppleTV, pressing any button on the Anthem remote triggers the apple 10 second rewind action. Really hoping it’s not accidental overlapping frequencies...
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post #5650 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
3/4 means 3 front speakers & 4 surround speakers. 3/2 means 3 front speakers & 2 surround speakers. It means 7.1 and 5.1.
Does this 3/4 include Atmos when the Dolby upmixer is active ?





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post #5651 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 10:47 PM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrspin11 View Post
Thank you! Ill email Play-Fi. I figured I'd ask here first, with Play Fi being 2nd.

My connection is the NAS ethered to the Orbi, then the MRX is connected by Wi-Fi. I wish I would logistically wire the MRX straight to the router, but kinda hard to do.

Yes, when I play a 192/24 in Critical Mode, it stutters/skips. 96/24 works great. If i dont run critical mode, the 192/24 getting downsized works fine. But, I'd like to enjoy the files in their proper form.

Thank you for the help!

Just a silly suggestion, do you have the MRX antennas installed and MRX connected to a 5Ghz network? In theory, you should still be able to stream 10Mbps wo a glitch if both MRX and mobile device are on a 5Ghz 802.11n or 802.11ac network and assuming both devices have a strong signal.

Use the Netgear app and check the signal strength and the bandwidth for both MRX and PlayFi mobile device, just to rule out any WiFi issues. If signal strength is like 100% and link rate > many hundred of Mbps, at least you know that your wireless medium and attached devices (MRX and PlayFi device) are ok. But that does not necessarily mean that the wireless medium and environment isn’t the culprit. For more easy reading on WiFi check https://play-fi.com/downloads/Wi-Fi-...y-Glossary.pdf (WiFi Analyzer is handy if you have an Android device)

You have to isolate the different elements (NAS, MRX, PlayFi, WiFi,...) in your setup to figure out the culprit and not an easy task, GL!

Last edited by rondongon; 07-06-2018 at 11:15 PM.
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post #5652 of 8308 Old 07-06-2018, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnygrandis View Post
Does this 3/4 include Atmos when the Dolby upmixer is active ?
If you're seeing 3/4, the receiver is receiving a 7.1 signal. The upmixer is irrelevant. If you're receiving atmos you see atmos, regardless of the upmixer. The upmixer is always trying to output atmos if you've set it to "Dolby surround"
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post #5653 of 8308 Old 07-07-2018, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
3/4 means 3 front speakers & 4 surround speakers. 3/2 means 3 front speakers & 2 surround speakers. It means 7.1 and 5.1.
I've wondered about that but never found time to chase it down. Thanks for clearing it up. Kind surprising why Anthem didn't just display 7.1 or 5.1 since it's the same number of characters.

Any idea what the display looks like for 7.1.4 or 5.1.4? And is this documented and I just missed it?

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #5654 of 8308 Old 07-07-2018, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
I've wondered about that but never found time to chase it down. Thanks for clearing it up. Kind surprising why Anthem didn't just display 7.1 or 5.1 since it's the same number of characters.

Any idea what the display looks like for 7.1.4 or 5.1.4? And is this documented and I just missed it?
For 7.x.4 & 5.x.4 the Anthems display Dolby Atmos or DTS:X MA.

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Last edited by Legairre; 07-07-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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post #5655 of 8308 Old 07-07-2018, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondongon View Post
Just a silly suggestion, do you have the MRX antennas installed and MRX connected to a 5Ghz network? In theory, you should still be able to stream 10Mbps wo a glitch if both MRX and mobile device are on a 5Ghz 802.11n or 802.11ac network and assuming both devices have a strong signal.

Use the Netgear app and check the signal strength and the bandwidth for both MRX and PlayFi mobile device, just to rule out any WiFi issues. If signal strength is like 100% and link rate > many hundred of Mbps, at least you know that your wireless medium and attached devices (MRX and PlayFi device) are ok. But that does not necessarily mean that the wireless medium and environment isn’t the culprit. For more easy reading on WiFi check https://play-fi.com/downloads/Wi-Fi-...y-Glossary.pdf (WiFi Analyzer is handy if you have an Android device)

You have to isolate the different elements (NAS, MRX, PlayFi, WiFi,...) in your setup to figure out the culprit and not an easy task, GL!
Thanks, ill check out those measurements! Ill see if I can get the iphone and mrx on the 5ghz. I'm in a mac environment, so yes, i wish the anthem and play fi were more mac friendly...

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post #5656 of 8308 Old 07-07-2018, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrspin11 View Post
Thanks, ill check out those measurements! Ill see if I can get the iphone and mrx on the 5ghz. I'm in a mac environment, so yes, i wish the anthem and play fi were more mac friendly...

There’s no reason why both mrx and iPhone cant be on 5Ghz, so make sure they are.

Oh, in Mac you can use the Wireless Diagnostics tool to scan your wifi networks. Option click the Wifi Umbrella icon, select “Wireless diagnostics”, then “Window-Scan”

It’s super handy! But the netgear genie app gives the RSSI/signal rate for each connected device to the router.
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post #5657 of 8308 Old 07-07-2018, 11:58 PM
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My Verizon Fios remote seems to interfere with the Mrx remote. When the display is showing on screen after pressing the mode button on the mrx, if I press the skip or back buttons on the Fios remote, the display changes with each press of the button. I'm not sure if that affects anything, it just seems to cycle through the display. I also didn't try to experiment with any other buttons.
Either way, there is definitely some kind of interference with the two units.
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post #5658 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 04:10 PM
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I got my 720 hooked up (5.1)

Even without ARC, dialogue seemed clearer which is what we are looking for.

After running a 5 position ARC, it is clearer but volume is quite a bit lower an has less "punch". Is that normal?

Also, please tell me there is a simple way to toggle ARC on or off without going deep into the setup menu every time? That's a real pain. They put a dedicated lip sync button on the remote but not one for ARC?

thx

bob
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post #5659 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
I got my 720 hooked up (5.1)

Even without ARC, dialogue seemed clearer which is what we are looking for.

After running a 5 position ARC, it is clearer but volume is quite a bit lower an has less "punch". Is that normal?

Also, please tell me there is a simple way to toggle ARC on or off without going deep into the setup menu every time? That's a real pain. They put a dedicated lip sync button on the remote but not one for ARC?

thx

bob
Yes to toggle ARC you have to go into the menu. as for the punch if you post pics of your ARC target window and graphs we can probably help.

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post #5660 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
Yes to toggle ARC you have to go into the menu. as for the punch if you post pics of your ARC target window and graphs we can probably help.
Thanks, That's what I feared on the ARC toggle

I'll try and figure out how to post pics or do I post a complete file?

Also, what does the dolby volume leveler actually do at different settings?

Seems to help with the punch

bob
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post #5661 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Also, please tell me there is a simple way to toggle ARC on or off without going deep into the setup menu every time? That's a real pain. They put a dedicated lip sync button on the remote but not one for ARC?

Create two identical inputs, one with ARC active, the other with it inactive, then toggle between the two on the remote, no digging into the menu, and it's a pretty quick change over.
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post #5662 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Create two identical inputs, one with ARC active, the other with it inactive, then toggle between the two on the remote, no digging into the menu, and it's a pretty quick change over.
So, I can duplicate say the SAT input (HDMI 1) on HDMI 2? That would be slick

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post #5663 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
So, I can duplicate say the SAT input (HDMI 1) on HDMI 2? That would be slick
The virtual Inputs. Say you've made an input for "Comcast" or something like that, defined it out, etc., etc. - then just make another one right next to it in the Inputs list, call it "Comcast2", and just turn ARC off on that second input, and you can bounce back and forth between the two. It'd still be the same physical input, HDMI 1 or whatever.

Sorry, maybe I"m not following you!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
The virtual Inputs. Say you've made an input for "Comcast" or something like that, defined it out, etc., etc. - then just make another one right next to it in the Inputs list, call it "Comcast2", and just turn ARC off on that second input, and you can bounce back and forth between the two. It'd still be the same physical input, HDMI 1 or whatever.

Sorry, maybe I"m not following you!
I made input 6 also HDMI 1 same as sat (input 1) and it works. ARC off is a good 5-6db louder than with it on, FWIW.

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post #5665 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
I got my 720 hooked up (5.1)

Even without ARC, dialogue seemed clearer which is what we are looking for.

After running a 5 position ARC, it is clearer but volume is quite a bit lower an has less "punch". Is that normal?

Also, please tell me there is a simple way to toggle ARC on or off without going deep into the setup menu every time? That's a real pain. They put a dedicated lip sync button on the remote but not one for ARC?

thx

bob
The easiest way is to create another virtual input that's identical to the main one, then turn ARC off on that, and then you can just toggle between the two.

Edit: Oops, I see this was already discussed above. Sorry.

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post #5666 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
I got my 720 hooked up (5.1)

Even without ARC, dialogue seemed clearer which is what we are looking for.

After running a 5 position ARC, it is clearer but volume is quite a bit lower an has less "punch". Is that normal?

Also, please tell me there is a simple way to toggle ARC on or off without going deep into the setup menu every time? That's a real pain. They put a dedicated lip sync button on the remote but not one for ARC?

thx

bob
Re: lack of punch / is that normal, could you upload your ARC results? There may be something in the graphs that offers a clue. Also, if you have pics of how your room is arranged, that could help.

Re: improving dialog clarity, it can be a challenge and too often depends on the source. Broadcast TV audio quality is all over the map. Blu ray and 4K UltraHD movies vary widely, too. There are some pretty abysmal production standards out there, and it's tough to overcome that.

Things to try:
- Experiment with Dolby Volume as it can help dialog quite a bit. I believe others have noted that using DV will turn off Atmos channels.
- Experiment with the level button. Some material benefits by increasing center channel volume a bit.
- Experiment with the treble button for taming edgy content.
- Take a critical look at your center channel positioning and verify that it's aimed at ear level with no obstructions between it and your ears.
- Consider acoustic treatment if you aren't using any.

After doing all of this stuff, dialog clarity was much better in my room, but ultimately it was necessary to upgrade the center channel to achieve the kind of performance wanted.

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #5667 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 07:41 PM
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Here is my first ARC attempt if it will let me. Look at that big hump on the fronts even after correrction (5-15K)



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post #5668 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 08:37 PM
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Please forgive me if this has been covered before but I just tried searching and couldn't find anything. I have an MRX-720 being fed from an Oppo 203 and Apple TV 4k. The HDMI-outs go to a motorized lift-mounted JVC DLA520 and a wall-mounted Pioneer Kuro Pro-151. When I first fired everything up, I couldn't get 4k on the JVC. Investigation revealed my BJC Belden couldn't pass the 4k signal at just over 50 foot length. I went to the huge PITA of running an RUIPRO fiber cable.

I fired everything up and got a beautiful 4k pic of The Last Jedi. When I shut the JVC down and tried to watch Apple TV on the Pioneer, the Pioneer would not lock the signal. A call to Anthem stated it was an HCDP issue and they told me to get a Linker. I purchased an HDFury Linker and went through several different attempts to no avail.

Here is the thing. With the RUIPRO cable unplugged, the Apple 4k correctly switches the resolution to 1080p and pops the signal onto the Pioneer no problem. When the RUIPRO is plugged in, it keeps trying to lock onto the JVC (which is OFF), cycling from no signal to HDMI-2 back and forth, causing the Pioneer to lock on and off at the same frequency. I tried a remote controlled HDMI switcher but it had auto sense and kept switching off and on too. The electronics in the RUIPRO are pulling power from somewhere even though the JVC is powered down.

Anthem confirmed that HDMI-1 and 2 are always active. This is a fatal flaw for my setup. On my old Denon 5308 (no obsolete with no ATMOS), each input could pick which HDMI out it used. My inputs on the Anthem are currently set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple Pioneer, Apple JVC, and Oppo Music for analog two channel listening. If I could just assign HDMI-2 to the inputs for watching the JVC, my issue would be solved.

I am pretty aggravated at Anthem that at this price point I can't assign the HDMI-OUT to a specific display device. I am super frustrated at this point thinking I am going to have to abandon the Anthem altogether. It's a bummer because I think the sound is superb.

If anyone can offer any suggestions to how I can get this to work I would be in your debt. My anthem is rack mounted and going in between cabinets. I can't be pulling the rack out and plugging and unplugging HDMI cables every time I want to watch a movie on the JVC.

Last edited by Swatdude1; 07-08-2018 at 08:44 PM.
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post #5669 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deucevantage View Post
I feel your pain - I had to turn an HK AVR 8000 (huge massive heat sinks, torid etc) into an anchor due to lack of inputs.

...DELETED FOR SPACE

Deucevantage, I have a Denon 5308CI boat anchor due to no Atmos. No clue what to even do with it.

What speakers are you running? I have (3) M&K S150 MlII's across the front, (2) M&K X-10 subs, and (4) in ceiling Kef Ci200RR's with custom ceiling boxes to exact "Kefommended" volume. My 720 plays EXTREMELY loud without distortion and the M&K's are rated at 4 ohm. I did take one pass at the ARC but I am not done with my cabinets yet so I haven't really messed with it much. The equipment/speakers will be covered with perfed doors which will change the sound anyway so I didn't want to waste time tweaking until everything was as it should be. All EQ is rack mounted, which I know is not ideal, but the wife demanded everything be hidden including motorized screen and projector lift. The M&K's are Blu-tacked to 3/8" steel plates with pyron foam underneath and sandbagged at the rear. There is about 1/16th" of clearance between the subs and the rack holding the front L/R M&K's.

Just reading through the last pages of this thread it sounds like I might be missing quite a bit with the ARC. I didn't see anything in the program that talked about Subwoofer support unless that is in the update. I will tell you I got a decent horizontal line starting off page with the two X-10s.
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post #5670 of 8308 Old 07-08-2018, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Here is my first ARC attempt if it will let me. Look at that big hump on the fronts even after correrction (5-15K)



bob

Bob, maybe it is just me but I think most folks would be scared to click on a zip file these days. Can you do screenshots?
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